DIY PNV repair

In detail: do-it-yourself PNV repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

I will assist in the repair of Novosibirsk night vision devices: 1pn34; 1pn58; 1pn51;. BN2; BN3 (1 year warranty for eop.)

And what is the repair? Replace the image intensifier?

Any of us can replace the image intensifier with 1pn58. But not all of them have image intensifier tubes. The cost of such work and the image intensifier will be 6500 rubles, nitrogen purge, replacement of drying cartridges is attached.

Sorry, I thought YOU needed to fix the device. And the 6500 is a good price.

It's a pity not in Moscow.
Who in the capital and the surrounding area can blow dry air or nitrogen, and what will it cost?
AP ..

Be careful with purging. And then one friend at the tire changer blew 1PN93-4 with dry nitrogen, and the lenses went out of their way

and

He brought it in for repair, he said, everyone was laughing for half a day. Collected, everything works to this day.

Mentally blew

And on the topic. Nobody in Moscow studies?

quote: I will assist in the repair of Novosibirsk night vision devices
Sent for repair 1PN93-2

There are several EPM 62G-V for 30 rubles.

Igor, then maybe it is worth giving advice on purging with an indication of the required pressure of the NV devices. C uv Alexander.

In the shelf there is a special stand with a bunch of filters and heaters. The PNV is connected and they blow for half an hour. Nobody measured the pressure, but it is minimal.

Thank you, I understand. I have a new question: what is the agreement of the reticle illumination for devices like Mon 6k, since without reticle illumination it is only a monocular. Soon we will open hunting. Any substitutes in case of urgent need?

There have been no cases of backlight repair yet. In 1pn51, two times.

Hello. Could you replace the eop in sentinele 2-50 with the eop of the 2nd pok. I honestly disassembled it and it seems not enough to collect the mind.

quote: Hello. Could you replace the eop in sentinele 2-50 with the eop of the 2nd pok. I honestly disassembled it and it seems not enough to collect the mind.
Only military and civilian counterparts.

Video (click to play).

Overdried the 34th on the stove after the rain, or rather overheated and the device went out, but still cracking. Your assumptions about the malfunction. Is repair possible? And within what limits?

Repair is possible. The image intensifier is out of order is 100 percent. Replacing the image intensifier, drying cartridge, backlight LED, nitrogen purging, postage 7200 rubles.

93-1 the EOP went out, worked fine, before the “end” it turned on and off several times, everything was ok, and then when turned on, only the grid is on and that's it. Repair price, terms, conditions?

Advise on 1pn58. I got a sight and found out that the reticle was dangling in it. At the front of the scope, where the large lens is dangling. I suspect that this is a dangling object associated with the aiming bar. What can be done?

quote: 93-1 extinguished eop
I wrote it in a personal.
quote: dangling reticle
The washer with the reticle is not fixed. Very neat. You can fix everything yourself with an instrument and a magnifying glass. It is intuitively repaired.

Found a defect. I disassembled the front part of the sight, removed the 1st lens and found that the second lens was bolting, on which the mirror triangle was located. I fixed it and everything seemed to be normal. Can you tell me that the lens won't break again after the shot?

1. It is treated by replacing the LED or most likely by replacing the rheostat board.
2. This is the case for all devices. After making corrections, the old shadow will soon disappear and a new one will appear behind the crosshair. It is not treated and is not a marriage.

Today I soldered the LED, put a modern analogue with a matte red bulb. The reticle has become much brighter. There is definitely an inconvenience of replacing the LED, since it is necessary to partially open the device and re-solder the LED. It is much easier to change all this on 1PN58.

And the image is normal, the image intensifier is when there is no grid on? If the image intensifier does not burn, then the problem is not with the grid, but with the image intensifier (dead or dying), becausethe mesh is projected up to the image intensifier. If the image intensifier is on, but there is no grid, then there are no miracles, maybe even with wire contacts, maybe the LED itself is buggy

In general, I wrote a bunch of letters, I hope someone will respond

Is your TV, radio, mobile phone or kettle broken? And you want to create a new topic about this in this forum?

First of all, think about this: imagine that your father / son / brother has an appendicitis pain and you know from the symptoms that it is just appendicitis, but there is no experience of cutting it out, as well as the tool. And you turn on your computer, access the Internet on a medical site with the question: "Help to cut out appendicitis." Do you understand the absurdity of the whole situation? Even if they answer you, it is worth considering factors such as the patient's diabetes, allergies to anesthesia and other medical nuances. I think no one does this in real life and will risk trusting the life of their loved ones with advice from the Internet.

The same is in the repair of radio equipment, although of course these are all the material benefits of modern civilization and in case of unsuccessful repairs, you can always buy a new LCD TV, cell phone, iPAD or computer. And for the repair of such equipment, at least it is necessary to have the appropriate measuring (oscilloscope, multimeter, generator, etc.) and soldering equipment (hairdryer, SMD-hot tweezers, etc.), a schematic diagram, not to mention the necessary knowledge and repair experience.

Let's consider a situation if you are a beginner / advanced radio amateur soldering all sorts of electronic gizmos and having some of the necessary tools. You create an appropriate thread on the repair forum with a short description of “patient symptoms”, ie. for example “Samsung LE40R81B TV does not turn on”. So what? Yes, there can be a lot of reasons for not switching on - from malfunctions in the power system, problems with the processor or flashing firmware in the EEPROM memory.
More advanced users can find the blackened element on the board and attach a photo to the post. However, keep in mind that you are replacing this radio element with the same one - it is not yet a fact that your equipment will work. As a rule, something caused the combustion of this element and it could “pull” a couple of other elements along with it, not to mention the fact that it is quite difficult for a non-professional to find a burned-out m / s. Plus, in modern equipment, SMD radio elements are almost universally used, soldering which with an ESPN-40 soldering iron or a Chinese 60-Watt soldering iron you risk overheating the board, peeling tracks, etc. The subsequent restoration of which will be very, very problematic.

The purpose of this post is not any PR of repair shops, but I want to convey to you that sometimes self-repair can be more expensive than taking it to a professional workshop. Although, of course, this is your money and what is better or more risky is up to you.

If you nevertheless decide that you are able to independently repair the radio equipment, then when creating a post, be sure to indicate the full name of the device, modification, year of manufacture, country of origin and other detailed information. If there is a diagram, then attach it to the post or give a link to the source. Write down how long the symptoms have been manifesting, whether there were surges in the supply voltage network, whether there was a repair before that, what was done, what was checked, voltage measurements, oscillograms, etc. From a photo of a motherboard, as a rule, there is little sense, from a photo of a motherboard taken on a mobile phone there is no sense at all. Telepaths live in other forums.
Before creating a post, be sure to use the search on the forum and on the Internet. Read the relevant topics in the subsections, perhaps your problem is typical and has already been discussed. Be sure to read the article Repair strategy

The format of your post should be as follows:

Topics with the title “Help fix the Sony TV” with the content “broken” and a couple of blurred photos of the unscrewed back cover, taken with the 7th iPhone, at night, with a resolution of 8000x6000 pixels are immediately deleted. The more information you post about the breakdown, the more chances you will get a competent answer. Understand that the forum is a system of gratuitous mutual assistance in solving problems and if you are dismissive of writing your post and do not follow the above tips, then the answers to it will be appropriate, if anyone wants to answer at all. Also note that no one should answer instantly or within a day, say, no need to write after 2 hours “That no one can help”, etc. In this case, the topic will be deleted immediately.
You should make every effort to find a breakdown on your own before you get stumped and decide to go to the forum. If you outline the entire process of finding a breakdown in your topic, then the chance of getting help from a highly qualified specialist will be very great.

If you decide to take your broken equipment to the nearest workshop, but do not know where, then perhaps our online cartographic service will help you: workshops on the map (on the left, press all buttons except “Workshops”). You can leave and view user reviews for workshops.

For repairmen and workshops: you can add your services to the map. Find your object on the map from the satellite and click on it with the left mouse button. In the field “Object type:” do not forget to change to “Equipment repair”. Adding is absolutely free! All objects are checked and moderated. A discussion of the service is here.

The “cellmate”, out of his hobby, brought the PNV-10T pseudo-binoculars to revive - sometimes they turn on, sometimes they don't.

In general, I had to climb inside and see what was there and how. So here's the autopsy report with thoughts and a photo.

As usual, I guessed to take photos already in the process, so some photos will be taken without assembly in their original state. Maybe I'll change it after assembly. Well, I was too lazy to set up a light and a tripod with a DSLR (I don't have a macro lens anyway), so the pictures should be taken with a soap box.

For example, here's a view from the outside. The suspension mount was unscrewed from the body, and the bolts were too lazy to screw in.

The battery compartment (2 AA batteries, that is, 2.4-3.2V power supply) is opened by unscrewing the cover. Above the lid is a desiccant cartridge (silica gel) with a window. On the other hand, there is a mode switch for three positions - off / NVD / NVD + backlight.

Lens. Equipped with an anti-exposure cap with a hole for testing NVD in daylight. Threaded cap.

In general, nothing particularly strange or scary. A device as a device.

Internal device of NVD.

Everything is insanely simple inside. After unscrewing the screws, we get two parts: an eyepiece system and a counterpart with electronics and a lens (there is no image intensifier in the photo).

In the counterpart, you can see the battery compartment separate from the total volume, the switch operates with a switch, 2 directions are involved and three positions are turned off, only NVD, NVD + backlight are on.

The backlight, a masterpiece of simplicity, consists of a current-setting (or rather, even a current-limiting) resistor and an IR LED (probably with a wavelength of 808nM, since it can be seen very well). The NVD is soldered with a black (negative) wire to the bottom (according to the photo) contact of the LED (black and blue wires also come there), that is, it is connected to the body. Red (plus) - to the biscuit.

The image intensifier and its high voltage power supply unit are made as a monoblock. Generation 2+, everything is cool. The name of this miracle is EPM-221G-00-11A.
The photographs have not survived in their original form.

The first suspicion fell on the light switch. I opened it, checked it - it seems to work as expected. I re-soldered the image intensifier unit to other contacts of the switch - it seems to work. But the next day it doesn't work again. And the backlight LED thrown to other contacts shines regularly.Well, when the image intensifier turns on, it works for a rather long time - I managed to walk around the yard with it at night.

The second suspicion was that moisture had gotten inside. The image intensifier unit was disassembled, examined, sealed and unscrewed, wrapped in gauze and buried for a month in silica gel, a bag with which he spent this time on the battery. Did not help.

Since there was essentially nothing to lose, it was decided to mercilessly disassemble the EOP unit itself in order to find where the trouble had started. The most unpleasant thing is that the idea to photographically document the whole process came after the splitting up, so there will be few photos.

Autopsy algorithm.

Step 1 - we spin the NVG. No matter how problems are foreseen there, you just need to unscrew all the bolts connecting the front and rear parts (you can start with the attachment to the suspension, it is screwed on top, on long bolts), after which we put the part with the eyepieces aside.

Step 2 - we unsolder the wires of the image intensifier.

Step 3 - unscrew the threaded “washer” with which the image intensifier is held in the lens unit. The lens must be unscrewed from the body to the maximum; when screwed in, the image intensifier tube is not removed from the tube. In the photo, everything is not very correct, since during the drying process the owner loved a spacer that moves the image intensifier away from the lens. Then I'll pick up something suitable there.

Step 4 (optional) - at this step, those who wish can pray to the Flying Spaghetti Monster or another supernatural (or not so) creature.

Step 5 - carefully pry on the washer with holes for adjustments around the entire perimeter. I started in the area of conclusions and walked in a circle. In two or three turns, it is opened from the compound inside and removed. The first turn I did by prying the edges with a scalpel, the rest - with a dental spatula for mixing all kinds of adhesives and putties. Under it is a textolite washer - the “supporting structure” of the block.

Step 6 - since it is not possible to remove the flooded and glued monster from the plastic case, we “clean” the image intensifier like an onion from the outer case. There is a thin plastic - it breaks off and bursts elementary. In extreme cases, you can slightly "outline" it from the outside with a scalpel. As a result of our barbaric actions, the lower plane of the hull remains and a handful of "cleanings" of the hull are obtained side by side. We also remove the bottom cover, if desired.

Step 7 - picking off the compound. The entire block is completely filled with a white rubber-like compound, and then glued onto another gray compound into a plastic case. Part of the white compound by means of improvised dental and not very instruments was partially crumbled. The work is very dreary and stressful, since you have to do it very carefully, if you cut off the conclusions - it's easier than a steamed turnip. And if you break the unsuccessful output of the transformer, then it will be very difficult to restore this business.

Here are the results of the work (I accidentally brushed some of the petals off the table, so they are not in the photo):

Features of the device.

The front and back planes are also removable. Although this is not strictly necessary. They are glued to the same compound.

After removal, PCB washers are found under them. The lower one (which is closer to the lens, dark) lies on a decent layer of compound, it was not ripped off.

There are 3 adjustment potentiometers located near the power terminals. They did not particularly pick around them, since there are probably conclusions in the compound. And it’s obviously not about them.

If you continue to rotate, then you can see the fullness of the picture:

Note: on the opposite side of the side of the terminals are the outputs of the image intensifier, there you need to be careful - as many as 4 wires fit to the image intensifier.

Picking up revealed 2 power conversions. One of which is high-voltage (held on to the working one, it is very unpleasant, but the small capacitance of the capacitors in the converter saves). There are 16 steps in its converter - 16 SMD capacitors of size 0805 and as many as 48 diodes in the case of 0603.

The second converter is not so evil in voltage (much fewer steps), but there already 3 wires go to the image intensifier.They did not particularly pick, since the behavior was similar precisely to jambs with high voltage.

What is done.

During the opening process, an open circuit was detected in the high voltage transformer terminal at the board. Either when the compound was chipped, it came off, or there were some prerequisites for this, but in any case, they soldered to the corresponding pad of the board.

After a long study of the structural elements, the repair of rations and the dilution of the power supply wires of the image intensifier to the sides of each other, the image intensifier started up. Now it remains to collect everything back, filling it with paraffin and some kind of silicone sealant (I can't imagine where to get a normal compound for such cases in our area).

Hopefully this report will help someone bring some fancy night vision goggle to life. Well, or just for general development.

UPD: I inserted the pictures anew, it is very similar to this case in LJ - when you move the pictures through the text, the link to the full size is lost. In general, fixed, full sizes (1000 pixels on the long side) are available on click.

Last edited by qza on 02 Sep 2014 10:49 pm, edited 2 times in total.

Well, here are the first similar photos from the network:

https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/476/forum/13-1112-1

and data of a similar transformer

Miniature high voltage transformers with a conversion factor of 1000.

Transformers are designed to operate in resonance mode in electronic equipment, in particular in night vision devices.

qza
In power supplies, it usually breaks where it is thin. Perhaps there are short-circuited turns in the high-voltage winding that disrupt auto-generation.

But if you get more green capacitors from the second post, then you can buy a new device, since they contain platinum.

admin
I also think to check the transic first. Only the generator was not found at home or was hidden somewhere far away, but I don't want to fence in the garden, I can check it at work.

I don’t know yet how it behaves, since the trance is soldered out, and the details are all soldered, I don’t remember who and why, but now an order of magnitude more information can be found than 20 years ago, and there are more opportunities.

Well, do you think such a generator circuit should work and a fundamental error crept in there?

Platinum in the entire device according to the passport. 0.01224 g, silver - 0.2287

.
Eh, you should have seen how many parts there are. I almost completely disassembled it:
IR filter with a diaphragm, a lens with 3 lenses, a tube for an image converter and a pen, an EOP EP-8 itself with a voltage multiplier, an eyepiece with adjustment and an elastic band, the handle itself with fasteners, illumination and batteries, in addition, a belt with fasteners and a canvas cover, and a passport.

According to the passport, it allows you to increase at least 3.5
Resolution of at least 10 lines per mm
Angle of view not less than 5 degrees

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Today we will skip the medieval alchemical method, which allows you to make a night vision device with your own hands. You can easily manage if sulfuric acid, tin chloride are stored at home, but the authors consider such an approach dangerous and unreasonable. Work plan today: we briefly discuss the principle of operation of a night vision device. We will help you to collect, if you don't sit still, maybe we will make a short excursion regarding the stores: we will discuss the stale from the field of hunting devices.

The eye is a passive radar that receives radiation emitted by objects. The visible spectrum is a small range of oscillations of the body of the Universe that surrounds humanity.The predator from the film of the same name switched ranges, a representative of an advanced civilization is unable to cover the total spectrum! In the dark, the eye is powerless to see, it is inaccessible for Homo Sapiens to observe infrared radiation. Bodies will emit waves at low ambient temperatures, the power density drops. The first night vision device looms. Nothing to do with the military. The device is used by builders.

Meet a thermal imager that picks up infrared radiation from objects. The device is not intended for viewing a dark landscape, but the frontal view can be discerned. The gizmo has a number of settings, the following symptoms are typical:

a temperature of 10 degrees Celsius heat looks like an orange glow;
the walls of the houses look reddish;
the surrounding inanimate nature of different shades up to black.

Forget to assemble a thermal imager with your own hands, you can buy it for 50 thousand. After spending seven thousand, you will get a night vision device (NVG) in the store. It makes no sense to take a special thermal imager for the purpose of vigil in the dark, it helps builders evaluate the quality of thermal insulation measures. If you find a familiar foreman, you can admire nature in the dark for free by borrowing a machine.

The scheme of the night vision device is implemented with the indicated processes, so as not to irritate the eye with a radiant rainbow, inside the factory product there is a transparent plate covered with semiconductor material, using an internal photoelectric effect, it allows you to "see" the infrared radiation of objects.

For reference. The photoelectric effect is the phenomenon of transition of electrons of a material to new energy levels under the action of photons of light. It is incorrect to use the term for invisible radiation, as the concept is played up in the literature, therefore we avoid contradicting other (authoritative) sources.

Under the influence of invisible "photons", the electrons of the plate receive energy. Information can be read by changing the transparency of the material, the electrical conductivity of the substance. Microchannel technology for manufacturing sensing elements helps to avoid illumination of neighboring pixels. The Nazis were the first to approach the solution of the problem. Germany used the labor of talented scientists. Some voluntarily, others were forced. Created a rifle sight weighing 2.25 kg with a suitcase of batteries (13.5) kg. It would probably allow many feats (or crimes) to be accomplished if Soviet troops had not taken Berlin in May 1945.

Sometimes the radiation is additionally amplified by photomultipliers. Helps to obtain a bright contrast picture for a night vision device. Often, external radiation is not enough; infrared illumination is used. Lamps are used, more often semiconductor diodes of a special type are used. You can find it in the store for radio amateurs. By the way, the coherence of LED radiation is high. This means that the noise will not affect the picture quality.

For reference. Coherence goes back by interpretation to the inphase of the wave. Such light is concentrated by a narrow segment of the spectrum (vertical line of the graph), easily folds, giving a greater brightness than other sources of radiation. As a result, with low power, you will get high-quality backlighting.

Night vision devices are classified as follows:

The nature of the impact on the environment:
1. Active with LED backlight.
2. Passive, accepting only radiation from other objects.
Received signal processing method:
1. With amplification.
2. Deprived of amplifications.
An indication of the presence of a storage device:
1. Registrants.
2. Not registering.

Now you can assemble a night vision device with your own hands.

The device of the night vision device includes:

Infrared-to-video converter.
The kind of eyepiece that could display the signal in real time.
Backlight.

There are many devices in the store to help you take pictures at night. The night vision device is obviously based on one technology.A black and white micro camera will do. It is not cheap, it is available to adapt the gadget for other purposes, if the night vision device gets tired. Examples of devices are JK 007B, JK-926A. The main thing is that the device has a video output, any camera has a built-in port, otherwise why is it needed at all! The purchase price should not greatly exceed the store price of the night vision device (see above), otherwise greed will stifle. Take comfort, our device will be able to register, the option costs extra money on the counter.

Find an old viewfinder. Visit a salon that repairs household appliances if there is no suitable good at home. The viewfinder is equipped with one video input using the protocol used by the camera.

The question can be clarified by asking local pros, checking the functioning by connecting the devices with a cable. It works - it remains to buy the backlight. Order LEDs online, shake the nearest market. How to check? There is a video camera for shooting at night. Go into the dark, turn on the power, see if the radio element is lit: aim the lens at the video camera.

A foreign fan of DIY recommends combining a dozen LEDs with garlands of 6 pieces on a branch. Supply the bunch with a 10-ohm shunt, supply power to the battery. It is difficult to mix up the polarity, just in case, use a special LED guide. The backlight unit is ready. LEDs are mounted on a homemade case: an ordinary children's pencil case, packaging.

Actually, it's ready. We connect the camera, viewfinder with a video cable, placing the lens in the same plane with the LEDs. Considering the size of the devices, they will fit in one pencil case. The viewfinder is mounted on the side. For the registration device, you will need to mount a corresponding connector in the housing. Night vision devices from China cannot be compared to ours! Consider the operation:

A night camera captures the surroundings.
LEDs illuminate items for better visibility.
The viewfinder projects the image visible to the eye.
If necessary, registration is carried out through a special connector.

Don't be surprised if you fail to see distant objects, the LED beams are missing. The night vision device has drawbacks: there are no glasses, the cost of new components is high, you need to buy, place batteries in the case. Explained in simple language the principle of operation of the device. Purpose: to show how to make a night vision device from available tools. However, there must have been a couple of reagents lying around in the chemistry room. Try to stir up the teacher!

The Cyclops night vision device is named so because instead of glasses it received a monocular. Would come in handy for a one-eyed giant. Like others, a night vision device is characterized by three parameters:

Resolution in arc minutes. The smallest part of a field of view that can be distinguished from an adjacent area of similar size.
Gain.
Line of sight.

For the devices to work, a faint reflection of the stars is enough, if the sky is illuminated by the Moon, the picture will become clear. Celestial bodies will illuminate the landscape no worse than the LEDs mentioned above. Of course, if you look at the sky, you can study the Big and Little Bears, but the picture will be flooded with a whitish glow.

Monocular night vision device Zenith has a built-in illumination, piezoelectric energy converter for power supply. The brand supplies hunters with sights, do not confuse. Especially for people with blurry vision, the lens can be adjusted to the missing diopters. The result is night vision goggles for reading in the dark!

NPF Dipol produces night vision devices, the products are not different at an affordable price. However, you need to look at the purpose of the device. There is an opportunity to pay 190 thousand rubles for glasses, for this money the Belarusians will sell a cool unit for night sightseeing of the surroundings.Catch the hijackers, watch the shameless returning from the party, punish the desecrators of the area!

In this article, you will learn how to make a real night vision device with a monitor with your own hands. This home-made device has not bad enough characteristics and will definitely come in handy on the farm, well, almost everyone can assemble it!

3D glasses with lenses
Good quality car monitor with a small diagonal.
Camcorder rechargeable batteries, type Samsung 4 pcs. 3.5 V.
Two video cameras, one of which has a very good sensitivity for working at night
Two IR illuminators

This is how the monitor looks like, which we need for homemade products:

Two cameras, one for near vision and one for far.

IR illumination, purchased on aliexpress, is a round board with a hole in the center and two rows of IR diodes. I left a link to them at the beginning of the article. By the way, you can purchase a backlight in a frame, and then disassemble it if you cannot find a suitable one. These boards will be attached to the glasses as shown in the photo below.

The monitor will be mounted in the glasses as follows:

We first check how the equipment works. I connect a small video camera to the monitor, I supply 12 V - everything is fine. The monitor shows the image transmitted by the camera

I install the monitor, from which the leg of the stand has been removed, into 3D glasses. I remove the partition, excess filling and lenses. On a 3D printer, I printed an extension cord for the body of the glasses, so that my eyes were comfortable looking at the monitor. The surface of the extender is not completely flat due to the print speed of the printer, but this does not really matter.

I burned holes in the body of the glasses and secured the entire structure with plastic ties. For reliability, I fixed it with Secunda glue.

I carefully cut the fasteners on the body of the glasses and transferred them to the lid so that it could open and not fall down. I also secured the hinges on the lid with ties. I also screwed in a small screw to give additional strength to the structure and the ability, by unscrewing it, to get inside the device for repairing or replacing parts.

On the front side of the device, I fix a small video camera between two LED lights. I fix the larger camera from above with the help of fasteners printed on a 3D printer, into which I tighten small screws. Everything is held securely.

For LED backlighting, I also 3D printed mounts in such a shape that the side partitions covered the camera and did not allow it to be blinded by the LEDs.

The front camera and LED backlight are glued on. The wires from the LEDs are secured with ties and routed into the case through a drilled hole. I installed control buttons on the body (on / off and switching to the far or near camera), connected the wires to them. I also placed a joystick on the body, which is responsible for the settings of the far camera.

As a power source, I used 4 batteries from Samsung camcorders, each 3.5 V.

The batteries are fixed with tape into a single block, the wires from them converge in the connector. The connector indicates where which wire is, plus plus and minus. The battery is connected to the device using a homemade plug, in which the sequentially soldered wires are fixed with glue and tape. The plug connects to the battery connector, the plug connects to the night vision device.

There are still some problems with recharging the batteries. First, the first battery in the block is charged for an hour, then the charger is rearranged and the next one is charged. We have to think about this problem yet.

I tested the device at night. If the near camera does not provide a good quality image, then the far one does its job perfectly. Houses, passing vehicles, people are clearly visible. And in the forest it will be perfectly possible to see a hare, a wolf, and our owl. Actually, I'm going to watch the owls.