DIY glove lining repair

Given: good gloves with a light woolen lining. For three seasons, the lining (in fact, a glove in a glove) has worn down a lot in places and they do not warm as well. Actually, the glove itself - i.e. skin - remained in excellent condition. Where can (and is it possible at all?) To update the lining for a reasonable price?
P.S. Well, yes, some kind of wretchedness. But I really like them

Find thin fleece gloves that your leather would fit on.
For example, in alloy
well, or in some other sports store.

Decathlon has excellent thin fleece gloves. It seems like they are worth 70 rubles

Find thin fleece gloves that your leather would fit on. And give it back in the atelier so that this new seamy side can be sewn to your leather upper.

Decathlon has excellent thin fleece gloves. It seems like they cost 70 rubles. I bought there for 200 rubles, but it's still inexpensive. I saw them by chance, was delighted and grabbed without looking - only at home I realized that gloves also have sizes, and these are too big for me.

And give it back in the atelier so that this new seamy side can be sewn to your leather upper. Not necessary.
Two pairs of gloves expands the possibilities

also had such a problem.
I searched for a long time, found black woolen gloves for a replacement lining, but then suddenly the old gloves rested

Warm and cold gloves of four manufacturing methods are being repaired: string, half-string, overly and dentovy. The stitching with the dent method simulates a hand stitch. This method of making gloves is mainly used abroad.

Gloves for repair come with the following defects:

partial or significant violation of the machine stitching along the contour of the fingers;

partial or significant violation of the machine stitching along the contour of the attachment of the napkin (connection of the napalk with a heart on the palm of the glove);

wear of the skin on the arrows connecting the back and palms;

violation of the seam on the edging or hem of the cuff;

weakening or separation of the glove button;

violation of the glove skin (tears, vyrovy).

Spreading old seams and stitching gloves. With a scalpel (or razor), the broken seams on the gloves are ripped open, with tweezers they clean the parts from the ends of the threads. Warm gloves are turned inside out during repairs. To do this, part of the side seam is ripped off if the lining is made of flannel or a bike, or part of the lining is cut if the lining is made of round knitted fabric or fur. The top of the glove is dragged into the resulting incision and the defects are corrected. If the gloves are made with a warm lining without arrows, then the operation of cutting the lining is omitted. The old seam is ripped 5 mm above and below the ends of the damaged area. When ripping open old seams, there should be no cuts. Details must be carefully cleaned from the ends of the threads.

Sewing of gloves in case of partial or significant violation of the machine stitching along the contour of the fingers of the glove and the side seam, as well as along the contour of the connection with the heart and in case of violation of the seam on the seam, is carried out in the same way as in the manufacture of gloves with the corresponding sewing methods, while the parts are fastened along the line of old punctures needles.

Applying patches. In case of significant damage to the glove skin on the back or on the palm of the glove, a patch covering 1/3 or 2/3 of the glove length can be used instead of a patch. The cover also covers the fingers (Fig. 19, a). After preliminary constriction in the cut, the patch is sewn with an overhead seam.The lining can be the same color as the glove, but in a different tone or contrasting color. For example, on gloves of a light brown color, the lining can be made dark brown. White and gray pads will work well with black gloves.

Rice. 19. Decorative elements used to seal mechanical damage on gloves: a - pad on the back and palm side of the glove; b - narrow straps threaded on the back of the glove; c - stitching straps along the cuff line; d - filigree decorative overlay; d - leather insert with folds; e - a triangular lace insert; g - triangular insert made of leather; h - embossed leather inserts.

To give the glove a more elegant look, perforations are used on the linings. In this case, not the entire surface of the lining is perforated, but its individual sections: either only on the fingers, or without affecting them. Shining the base color of the glove leather through the perforated holes on the escutcheon creates a beautiful play of colors.

The use of perforation should be recommended in case of damage to the glove skin in the form of small punctures, burn-throughs, and tears. Perforation can be made in the form of a circle, oval, triangle, etc.

To hide the damage on the cuff of the glove, you can use the support of the straps, which are more or less narrow, depending on the size of the damage. If the back of the glove is smooth (without rollers and embroidery) and has a slight damage, then narrow straps threaded in the form of a stylized twig (Fig. 19, b) will not only cover the defect, but also give the glove an attractive look.

There are frequent cases of violation of the glove skin along the cuff line. Along with the usual edging, in this case, a strap is made to imitate a clasp on a glove button (Fig. 19, c) or a buckle. You can use wooden ornaments in the form of buttons, small buckles and balls made of noble wood species in their natural state. The golden, reddish, dark brown colors of the wood go well with the texture of the glove leather.

When repairing weekend gloves, you can use small decorative elements made of filigree (Fig. 19, d), with Khokhloma painting, shiny stones, beads, and plastic. In case of damage, the edges of the cuff and the back of the output glove are trimmed with pleats and folds. In this case, glove leather (Fig. 19, e), nylon, thin Vologda lace, guipure (Fig. 19, e) are used.

If the cuff is damaged, it is a good idea to use triangular leather inserts (Fig. 19, g). It is better to sew such inserts with an overly seam from the bakhtarmya side of the skin. On the right side of the leather, this seam in the form of thin flat stripes will serve as a decorative trim. Decorative inserts of various shapes can be made of embossed leather (Fig. 19, h).

If the glove needs to be lengthened, the gaiter is attached in the form of a cuff, and the junction is closed with a decorative stitching, an overhead strap or an elastic band, or pulled at the wrist with a cord ending in decorative elements (Fig. 20).

Rice. 20. Gloves with elongated leggings.

When repairing damaged areas on the cuffs of warm gloves and mittens, you can use knitwear, fluffy faux fur or smooth natural fur.

If the glove skin is damaged, strips of fur can also be used on the back of the glove.

Technical requirements for repaired gloves:

1. Gloves must be repaired in the manner in which they were originally manufactured.

2. When sewing gloves, the stitch should be even, well-tightened, without skipped stitches, loops, knots, breaks and intersections of the skin; the line should follow the line of the old punctures. The sewing frequency on gloves for all manufacturing methods is 4-6 stitches per 100 mm of seam length.

3.In repaired warm gloves, the lining should match the size of the top; the seams of the lining must match the seam of the top; the manufacture of the lining is allowed with and without arrows.

4. Replaceable parts during the repair of gloves (arrows, pads, wedge, straps, edging, patches) must match the type and color of the material of the top of the gloves. The details of the top and lining must be located correctly, without distortions, the same in both half-pairs. The difference in thickness of replaceable leather parts of the top of the gloves should not exceed 0.2 mm.

Note. A slight difference in the shades of the replaced leather parts in relation to the shade of the top of the repaired gloves is allowed.

5. Patches should correspond in shape and size to the areas of the gloves being repaired with an allowance of 8-10 mm. The line of the patches should run parallel to the edges of the patches at a distance of 2-3 mm from the edge. The sewing frequency is 4-6 stitches per 10 mm seam length.

6. Thread for repairing gloves should be in harmony with the color of the thread used in the manufacture of gloves, or for major repairs with the color of the skin of the gloves.

First you need to understand the nature of the damage. If the machine line is broken, even significantly, the repair will not take much time. If the skin on the cuffs, fingers, arrows (the parts connecting the back and the palm of the gloves) is worn out, or the skin is torn somewhere, the repair will be more difficult.

Violation of the machine stitching along the contour of the fingers or nap (thumb), for example, at the place where it joins the palm of the gloves. First, you need to carefully open the broken seams with a scalpel or razor (carefully - do not cut the skin of the gloves and do not hurt yourself!), Carefully free the parts of the gloves from the ends of the threads with tweezers.

Warm gloves are turned inside out in a special way during repair. If the lining is flannel or flannel, for this you will have to rip part of the side seam, and if it is made of knitted fabric or fur, you will have to cut part of the lining. In the resulting incision, you need to pull the leather top of the glove - it will turn out to be inside out - and apply a new seam. In gloves with a warm lining, made without arrows, the lining does not need to be cut - they just rip the old seam half a centimeter above and below the damaged area.

Gloves are re-stitched with sufficiently strong threads, with the same seam with which they were originally sewn, and along the line of old punctures. The knots, of course, must be hidden on the seamy side and at the end of the stitching of the leather top, do not forget to sew the lining if it has been cut:

If the integrity of the skin is violated, patches have to be applied. Here it is useful to show imagination and, if there is a sufficient amount of suitable material, to make not patches as such, but decorative overlays - the same shape on both gloves. They can also cover the fingers (see fig. 154a). Sew them on with a patch seam. The color of the overlays can be different - the same as the gloves, or the same color, but a different tone, or a different color. For example, dark brown, yellow goes well with light brown, white and gray go well with black. If the leather you have found for repair is only enough for a pad for one glove, you can imagine the matter as if “it should be done” and make a patch in the form of a small pocket with an imitation of a button - it is convenient to store travel passes, tickets, etc. in it. P.

Damage on the cuff can be hidden with straps of different widths or their imitation (Fig. 1546).

When repairing women's gloves, damage can be masked with decorative elements - imitations of shiny stones, beads, wood details, especially noble breeds (balls, plates), small buckles, imitation of glove buttons, etc. (Fig. 154c). If the skin on the back of the glove is badly damaged, and there is no material for the lining, it is worth making symmetrical or asymmetrical cuts - it will even be piquant.The edges of the cutout must be edged, and the fastener can be made in the form of a loop (leather strap) with a button or an elastic band can be inserted (Fig. 154d).

To repair damaged cuffs, it is good to use triangular inserts (Fig. 154e). They are sewn in with an overly seam from the bakhtarmya (seamy) side of the skin.

If the glove needs to be lengthened, a cuff is attached to it in the form of a cuff. The junction is well masked with a patch strap or decorative stitching.

Figure 154. Decorative elements for sealing damage on gloves

General requirements to be observed when repairing gloves:

The stitch should follow the old punctures, be even and well tightened, without skipping stitches, without loops and knots, without breaks;

The difference in the thickness of the replaced leather parts of the top, the glove itself and the patches and overlays newly sewn to it should not exceed 0.2 mm;

Patches and onlays should correspond to the repaired areas with an allowance of 8-10 mm.

The stitching of patches and overlays should be parallel to the edges and extend from these edges at a distance of 2-3 mm. The sewing frequency on patches and onlays, as well as on gloves in general, is 4-6 stitches per 10 mm of a seam. New holes can be made with an awl.

7.19. "LEATHER REVOLUTION"

The "leather revolution" in Russia is in full swing. Leather jackets embrace and squeeze us from all sides. They are innumerable. And the "leather boom" continues.

Thanks to the latest processing technologies, leather from "cattle" (cattle) is now turning into a super material from which you can sew absolutely everything - from suits to underwear. First of all, jackets and loose long coats with fur lining or lining are sewn from “Kaerezskaya” leather.

The main property of "cattle" leather is its resistance to water. If the skin absorbs water and dries up, returning to its original appearance, then it is of high quality. If water stains remain on it, it is better not to buy such leather. Teflon-treated leather does not absorb moisture at all: water simply “rolls off” from it.

The most fashionable type of “cattle” leather is beef or its imitation. However, it should be borne in mind that most often "bovine skin" is made from ordinary sheep skin. To maintain a rough style, a large pattern is applied to the skin with the effect of folds, scratches, scuffs, wrinkles.

Deer-like leather is also becoming very popular. But it is also made from the same sheepskin. Real deerskin is rare. And besides, it is very expensive, but it is not worn for long, since the skins of a wild deer (like other wild animals) usually have a lot of damage from “love fights” and insect bites,

The most versatile is the skin of lambs. It is not very expensive, but it is of very high quality: it is light, flexible, and lends itself to any processing. An extremely fashionable “reptile” is also made from it: the lamb easily turns into a crocodile, and into a lizard, and into an anaconda, and into a python, and into a frog. By the way, the skin of real reptiles is expensive and tough, so it is only used for decoration and accessories. The "sexy" leather underwear that is becoming fashionable is also made from thin lambskin, which, like silk, can be washed in a washing machine.

Finally, our market is saturated with a mass of things made from rough and low-quality pigskin. The one who buys them, in most cases, does not even suspect that “thin silky skin” is just refined “pig's” skin. Any pattern (flowers, polka dots, ornament) is rolled onto its suede side, and a material is obtained that is almost indistinguishable from fabric. You can sew trousers, dresses, blouses from it, lay folds, drape.

But the “leather revolution” does not end there. Polished leather has been thrown onto the market. Moreover, it shines moderately, but does not "mirror". Leather is also becoming popular, imitating various kinds of weaving, tapestries. The range of colors of leather products is also expanding.The traditional black color gives way to golden beige, yellow, blue, red, milky, honey. In general, “leatherization” does not have a beginning, “leatherization” does not have an end.

An old suede jacket or out-of-the-way leather trousers can be used to make great gloves - stylish, soft and comfortable. Nobody else will have such a pair.

Before you start working on leather, it's best to make a trial glove out of cotton or muslin.

Take a piece of paper and fold it in half. Place your hand on the folded edge of the paper so that your thumb stays out of the paper. Leave some space between your index finger and the edge of the paper. Spread your fingers slightly and circle your hand, leaving 3 mm above your fingertips and on the side of your little finger. When drawing between your fingers, start from the little finger and spread your fingers only to mark the narrowest points. It is important that the lines between the toes are parallel.

Mark with points B and C where the thumb fits to the hand. Draw a vertical line from A (this is the point at the top of the gap between your index and middle fingers) and horizontal lines along B and C. Draw an oval for the thumb hole.

Idea: Use a contrasting color of thread to highlight the skin tone of the gloves. Use small bows, embroidery or frills for decoration

Before cutting, draw a curve at the bottom of each insert. Cut out the patterns along this curve. Your three gussets will look something like this.

Make a pattern for the thumb. Circle it around your finger. At the midpoint of the gap, draw a wing / flap to the right, then draw a pattern. At this stage, you only draw half of the pattern. Add some seam space at the tip of the thumb, as the thumb does not have a gusset. Fold the paper in half and outline the half of the pattern you just drew.

Do a test fit first. Before you start working on leather, it's best to make a trial glove out of cotton or muslin to make sure the pattern is correct. Use thread in a contrasting color so you can easily see where you are sewing and where you need to adjust the pattern. Once you've got the right cut, you can make as many leather gloves as you want without a test piece.

Pin the pattern to the back of the leather, placing the longest side of each gusset on the back of your hand (where there is no thumb hole). Sew with an intermittent stitch 3 mm from the edge. If you need to adjust the shape of your fingers, do so now.

Fold each part of the thumb piece (right sides together) in half lengthways and sew. Leave the bottom open. Trim the corner so that it turns right side out. Turn the thumb piece right-side up.

Pin the toes to the glove, aligning the seam of the thumb with the seam of the index finger. Try on a glove to make sure it fits. Customize if needed. The “wings” of the thumb may need to be trimmed to fit well. Pin it again and try it on. When all is well, sew the thumb piece to the glove.

Sew the sides and hem the bottom of the gloves.

First you need to understand the nature of the damage. If the machine line is broken, even significantly, the repair will not take much time. If the skin on the cuffs, fingers, arrows (the parts connecting the back and the palm of the gloves) is worn out, or the skin is torn somewhere, the repair will be more difficult.

Violation of the machine stitching along the contour of the fingers or nap (thumb), for example, at the place where it joins the palm of the gloves. First, you need to carefully open the broken seams with a scalpel or razor (carefully - do not cut the skin of the gloves and do not hurt yourself!), Carefully free the parts of the gloves from the ends of the threads with tweezers.

Warm gloves are turned inside out in a special way during repair.If the lining is flannel or flannel, for this you will have to rip part of the side seam, and if it is made of knitted fabric or fur, you will have to cut part of the lining. In the resulting incision, you need to pull the leather top of the glove - it will turn out to be inside out - and apply a new seam. In gloves with a warm lining, made without arrows, the lining does not need to be cut - they just rip the old seam half a centimeter above and below the damaged area.

Gloves are re-stitched with sufficiently strong threads, with the same seam with which they were originally sewn, and along the line of old punctures. The knots, of course, must be hidden on the seamy side and at the end of the stitching of the leather top, do not forget to sew the lining if it has been cut:

If the integrity of the skin is violated, patches have to be applied. Here it is useful to show imagination and, if there is a sufficient amount of suitable material, to make not patches as such, but decorative overlays - the same shape on both gloves. They can also cover the fingers. Sew on them with an overhead seam. The color of the overlays can be different - the same as the gloves, or the same color, but a different tone, or a different color. For example, dark brown, yellow goes well with light brown, white and gray go well with black. If the leather you have found for repair is only enough for a pad for one glove, you can imagine the matter as if “it should be done” and make a patch in the form of a small pocket with an imitation of a button - it is convenient to store travel passes, tickets, etc. in it. P.

Damages on the cuff can be hidden with straps of different widths or their imitation.When repairing women's gloves, damage can be masked with decorative elements - imitations of shiny stones, beads, wood details, especially noble breeds (balls, plates), small buckles, imitation of glove buttons, etc. e. If the skin on the back of the glove is badly damaged, and there is no material for the lining, it is worth making symmetrical or asymmetrical cuts - it will even be piquant. The edges of the cutout must be edged, and the fastener can be made in the form of a loop (leather strap) with a button or an elastic band can be inserted

It is good to use triangular inserts to repair damaged cuffs). They are sewn in with an overly seam from the bakhtarmya (seamy) side of the skin.

If the glove needs to be lengthened, a cuff is attached to it in the form of a cuff. The junction is well masked with a patch strap or decorative stitching.

General requirements to be observed when repairing gloves:

The stitch should follow the old punctures, be even and well tightened, without skipping stitches, without loops and knots, without breaks;

The difference in the thickness of the replaced leather parts of the top, the glove itself and the patches and overlays newly sewn to it should not exceed 0.2 mm;

Patches and onlays should correspond to the repaired areas with an allowance of 8-10 mm.

The stitching of patches and overlays should be parallel to the edges and extend from these edges at a distance of 2-3 mm. The sewing frequency on patches and onlays, as well as on gloves in general, is 4-6 stitches per 10 mm of a seam. New holes can be made with an awl.

OLEGATOR (4.10.2009, 10:23) wrote:

OLEGATOR (5.10.2009, 12:57) wrote:

• Like
• I do not like

ill 26 Nov 2009

morozko (28 May 2012 - 12:39) wrote:

• Like
• I do not like

Kubinec8 29 May 2012

morozko (28 May 2012 - 12:39) wrote:

Kubinec8 (May 29, 2012 - 10:53) wrote:

No, the gap is right at the pad of the index finger.

• Like
• I do not like

Kubinec8 31 May 2012

morozko (May 29, 2012 - 11:22 am) wrote:

Well then, you need to carefully align the edges of the hole and glue in a neoprene patch. Stamp the nylon well around the perimeter.

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Any, even very beloved, things are short-lived. So my bicycle gloves, which have served faithfully for many years, broke one not too beautiful day. I really didn’t want to go to the other end of the city for new ones, but I found suitable leather, tools and materials at hand. The thought has ripened: why not try to sew gloves yourself?

Conceived - done. In this article we will show you how to sew short leather gloves.

It all started with finding a suitable pattern. Unfortunately, nothing was found on the Internet for short gloves without fingers. There were only patterns of models with long fingers. Well, this defect had to be corrected on our own. With the help of old gloves, a lot of calculations and recalculations, I made my pattern, although it did not work out the first time.

The main pattern turned out to be fingerless gloves (plus 3 more details for sewing between the fingers, they will be discussed below).

I have a size S (palm circumference 18 cm).

The pattern can be drawn by yourself, you just have to take into account the size ratio.

• the width of the glove along the line of the pads is 3 cm larger than the hand
• the width of each "finger" of the glove is 2 times wider than the finger of the hand
• the place for the thumb should be 2.5 times wider than the finger (if it is too narrow, it will be problematic to remove the glove)

Cut out the pattern from a sheet of A4 paper folded in half.

You can determine the size by measuring the circumference of the palm on the pads, as shown in the photo.

We check the resulting number with the size table.

For sewing gloves, we need tools and materials:

• Pen, ruler
• Scissors or stationery knife
• Shiloh, striper
• Hole puncher
• Needle with thread
• Button installer
• Buttons
• Skin itself

The skin should be soft, not thick (0.8 - 2 mm thick), elastic. Should stretch slightly, not tear from any force, have a durable outer coating or paint (so as not to rub off on the steering wheel), not slip. More details about the choice of leather for work are described in my previous material.

For the gloves I used 1.5 mm thick pigskin.

Before you cut out the details from the leather on the pattern, it is worth trying on the pattern on your hand to make sure that the dimensions are correct. The seam along the line of the thumb and forefinger should come together.

If all is well, proceed to the transfer of the pattern to the skin. Do not forget that there are 2 gloves and both blanks should be circled.

We spread it out in full width and outline with a ballpoint pen (you can use soap or a special marker on the fabric) the template from the wrong side of the material.

The skin should lie flat, not be stretched or, conversely, gather in folds.

We carefully cut out our future gloves. We fold, check that nothing protrudes anywhere, and the lines converge on the arm as expected.

After that, we mark 3 parts that will be sewn between the fingers. All three are in different lengths:

• part between index and middle finger - 2 × 5cm (1)
• the part between the middle and ring fingers - 2 × 4.5 cm (2)
• the part between the middle and little fingers - 2 × 4.7 cm (3)

We cut out 2 pieces of each piece.

A complete set of blanks for gloves is ready.

We turn to the marking of holes and lines for sewing seams. If you have a sewing machine that can sew on leather, everything is much easier. It is enough just to sew the necessary parts together.

First, mark out the rectangular parts. Holes should be made at a distance of 2-3 mm from the edge with an interval of 3-4 mm between them. We mark the holes with a marking wheel, then with an awl. If you do not have a special tool, you can make a markup using a regular ruler.

Then you should mark the holes on the gloves themselves. We carefully monitor that the workpieces do not disperse and do not move to the sides.

When everything is marked up, we proceed to the firmware of the details.

If your skin is soft and thin enough, you can sew it on the wrong side. But if the skin is denser than 1 mm, it is better to immediately sew from the front side, then the seams will not interfere with the fingers, press anywhere, bulge out and affect the inner size of the gloves.

We start sewing from the bottom, from the thumb. The needle goes "dotted" through the holes, then turns around and goes back, closing the gaps.

First, we fasten the thread from the seamy side.

Then we move on to the firmware. We carefully monitor that there are no unnecessary gaps between the holes, the thread was well stretched everywhere, the skin did not fold in folds and did not move out of its place.

We reach the end of the line (upper part of the thumb), fasten the thread and go back.

Returning to the beginning of the seam, we also fix the thread, bring it to the wrong side, cut it, and glue the edge carefully so that it does not stick out.

After that we sew the part between the thumb and forefinger.

With due diligence, the seam is smooth and neat.

Again we try on the stitched part: was everything correctly marked and is it comfortable for the thumb.

If everything is fine, we go to the sewing of the rest of the glove. We take the first rectangle (1), bend it in half with the front parts to each other and insert it between the index and middle fingers of the glove. The index finger should form a "triangle".

After making sure that all the parts fit together and that nothing protrudes anywhere (if it does protrude, the excess needs to be cut off), we begin to stitch.

Particular attention should be paid to this groove between the fingers - the skin there should lie perfectly even, the seam should be tight, otherwise the fingers will be uncomfortable, and the gloves will quickly wear out.

We sew the seam, as usual, in both directions, fix the thread, cut off the excess. We sew on the other side.

In the same way, we sew the two remaining parts between the middle and ring fingers and the ring and little fingers.

Memo: the most important thing is to monitor the correct location of the parts to be sewn - the front side is directed in the right direction and the edges without distortions (so as not to sew the left part to the right side or vice versa).

After both gloves are sewn, we try on our creation. The hand should be comfortable, the seams should not interfere, and the fingers should be free to bend. Over time, the skin will stretch further and take the shape of a hand.

Since we have cycling gloves, mostly for the summer, we need to lighten them and add ventilation. And taking them off will be much easier with a wrist strap.

We outline where we should have the button and cut a strip of leather right on the top of the glove. Strip 1 cm wide (to fit the button).

For better ventilation, we also make a round hole in gloves, expecting that it should be 2-3 cm below the knuckles (when the fist is bent) with an indent of 1.5-2 cm on each side of the palm.

We put it on the hand, tighten it on the wrist, mark where the button should be located.

After that, we make two holes with a hole punch: for the upper and lower parts of the button.
With the help of the installer, we fix the buttons (you can use the tools at hand - a pin of the required diameter and a hammer, but this is not very convenient).

We connect the front part of the "cap" button with the lower part, which is in the form of a "donut" on the longer part of the strip that we cut out.

We fix them with the button installer.

In the same way we fix the lower part of the button.

We put the upper and lower parts tightly on top of each other: the pin on the bottom, the button on the top.

We check if everything is well connected and works correctly. Open and close the button several times.

At the end, additional perforation can be made in a semicircle above the cut-out hole to provide additional ventilation. To do this, we make identical holes at regular intervals (about 1-1.5 cm) with a hole punch.

We do the same with the second glove.

After the final fitting, you can go for a drive without fear for the safety of your hands.

The main purpose of gloves and mittens is protection from the cold.

Gloves can be winter, demi-season and summer, with different types of lining, or unlined gloves.

Natural fur lining:

Gloves lined with natural fur are worn in the cold season. Rabbit fur and sheep fur are used as lining. Hands in gloves made of natural fur always stay warm, even in the most severe frosts.

Glove lining made of natural printed wool on a knitted basis:

Gloves with natural wool lining on a knitted basis are very popular in winter. When making this type of lining, natural wool is knitted into a knitted fabric. Just like in gloves lined with natural fur, hands in such gloves stay warm, regardless of the cold.

Faux fur lining:

Using a knitted method, you can make a fabric that imitates natural fur. The pile is formed from a combed ribbon or from combed yarn pieces. Artificial fur consists of two layers: a primer (base, frame) and a pile covering. Faux fur is used for a wide range of products. By using different raw materials and different finishing methods, it is possible to obtain a material that imitates astrakhan fur, tsigeyka, etc. The pile of artificial fur can be the same or different in height, with long, hard fibers, or short and soft fibers.

Wool lining of gloves:

The woolen lining of the gloves is knitted from yarn. Woolen and semi-woolen yarns are used as the main raw materials. Wool-lined gloves are worn in warmer weather than natural fur-lined gloves, but they also have high heat-saving properties and feel warm and comfortable in their hands.

Cashmere lining of gloves:

The lining is knitted from cashmere yarn. This glove lining is fluffy and soft to the touch. Hands in them are cozy and comfortable.

Silk lining of the gloves.

The silk lining is cut from linen.

For the manufacture of silk lining, artificial yarn is used, which is obtained by processing natural materials.

Gloves with a silk lining are worn in warmer weather. The hand in them looks natural due to the fact that the lining is thin. She breathes well and hands in gloves with silk lining are not hot.

Glove leathers are the softest and most viscous of all leather types with a sufficiently high tensile strength. They are usually not top-dyed to preserve the grain of the outer skin layer.

The appearance, technical requirements, physical and chemical properties of glove leathers are regulated by technical standards. Currently, three types of standards are applied for glove leather: OH 792320 “Chrome-tanned glove leather”, OH 792360 “Glove suede”, OH 792330 “Formaldehyde glove leather”.

Types of glove leather and their characteristics. Glove leathers are distinguished by the type of raw material from which they are made, by the tanning method, by the method of coloring and finishing.

According to the type of raw material, glove skins are divided into goat, sheepskin, pigskin, leather from the skins of cattle, wild pigs (bakers) and wild animals.

The tanning method distinguishes between colored husky, chrome-tanned leather, suede, sulfochloride and formaldehyde leather.

According to the method of coloring and finishing, the following types of leather are distinguished: eye, dogs, nappa, khair, moheto, dobeto [2 p.213].

Until recently, the skin of the eye was the main one among the glove leathers. They are distinguished by a delicate face layer, softness, and high ductility. Previously, this name was used for husk-type leather, and now it is also used for chrome-tanned goat-tanned leather, dyed only on the front side and on the light bakhtarmya side. The skin of the eye is used for weekend gloves.

Dogs skins have a rougher facial surface and less stringiness than eye skin. They are painted in a light color (gray or beige). They are produced from goat and used for everyday household and sports gloves without lining.

The name nappa currently refers to all types of face-dyed glove leathers made from chrome-tanned leathers. Dark nappa skins tend to have a finishing. A special type of nappa is leather dyed with special wash-resistant dyes. Nappa leather is produced from all kinds of raw materials used for the production of glove leather, most often from goat and pig leather. Gloves with lining are made from nappa leather of darker colors, as well as sports gloves, from light-colored leather, with and without lining.

Khair leather has a polished and finished fringe side, which becomes the face side in the glove. The pile on the skin is very low. Hire skins are most often colored. The best raw material for khair skins is lamb skins, which are tanned with aluminum salts.

Mojeto and Dobeto skins are soft, elastic, and have a polished front surface similar to velvet. Moheto leather is made from cattle hides, and dobeto - from goat or sheepskin. These leathers are used to make weekend gloves.

For gloves, leather embossed under reptiles (for example, crocodiles) and metallized are also used.

Glove leather chrome tanned (OH 79 2320). For the production of chrome-tanned glove leathers, skins are used:

kids of categories (by weight) 0.17 -0.36 kg, I-V grades;

goats of categories 0.36 -1.5 kg, I-V grades;

pork categories 3.5 -7 kg, I-IV grades, as well as the skins of wild pigs;

cattle of categories 4.1 -6 kg, I-IV grades;

lambs of categories 0.4 -1.6 kg, grades I-V;

sheep categories 0.7-2 kg, I-V grades.

Chrome-tanned glove leathers must be soft and easily stretchable. The face layer should be smooth, clean, and free of grease. The skins should be well-ridged, well-groomed and stitched. Their color must be uniform, resistant to dry and wet abrasion, as well as to the action of light and sweat. For top-dyed leathers, the fringe side must be clean. The skin should not contain substances that irritate the skin of the human hands [3 p.55].

Glove suede. Distinguish between suede, i.e. leather with an abraded face layer and processed on both sides, and front suede, i.e. leather, treated only from the bakhtarmya side.

For the production of suede, skins of I-V grades of ungulates (deer, mountain goats, mouflons), goats of categories 0.36-1.5 kg, I-V grades, pigs of categories 0.7-2 kg, I-V grades are used.

Suede and front suede are produced in natural color and dyed. The coloration must be uniform, the leather must be dyed over its entire thickness. The leather should be soft, viscous, pleasant to the touch and well-sanded, carefully sanded, have a low and thick pile, and a smooth and smooth fringed surface.The skin should not contain substances that irritate the skin of the human hands.

Leather parts of gloves should remain viscous after washing with neutral soap without adding sodium bicarbonate or neutral washing powder in water at a temperature of 25 -42 ° C, after drying at a temperature of 10 -30 ° C and ironing the fringe side through the rounded edge of the plate.

Formaldehyde glove leather. In the manufacture of formaldehyde leather, pelt is treated with formaldehyde, and then with urea-formaldehyde resins. For the production of these skins, goat skins of categories 0.18-0.36 kg, I-V grades, goats of categories 0.36-1 kg, I-V grades, lambs of categories 0.4-1 kg, I-V grades are used.

The leather should be well tanned, stringy and soft to the touch. The front layer should be smooth, clean, free of fat deposits, softness and color should not change during storage. The skin should not contain substances that irritate the skin of the human hands.

Leathers should remain viscous after washing with neutral soap without adding sodium bicarbonate or neutral washing powder in water at a temperature of 25 -42 ° C, after washing with clean water at the same temperature, drying at a temperature of 10 -30 ° C and ironing the fringe side through the rounded edge of a hard plate.