DIY rubber boot sole repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the soles of rubber boots from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

How and with what can you glue rubber boots along the seam at home? Is it possible to glue the sole of these boots?

Glue up rubber boots at home it can be very difficult. This can be confirmed by everyone who has ever tried to do it. The fact is that the usual glue that we use to glue ordinary shoes will not work for rubber boots. It doesn't matter if do you want to glue the seam, sole or any other part of the boot... Of course, the easiest way would be to simply take the shoes for repair, having laid out a tidy sum, but here we also face a problem: not all shoe shops undertake to glue rubber boots, because they themselves do not know how to do it. Here we can only rely on ourselves and glue the boots on our own, or ruthlessly throw them into a landfill. But before you sigh in sorrow trying to shove the rubber boots into the trash bag, let's try to seal them up on our own.

To effectively glue rubber boots, you need to find out where the damage is. Rubber is a material that is very easy to pierce with a sharp object. You can simply step on glass or sharp bricks to create a hole in the sole. This is a very unpleasant phenomenon, since water will rapidly accumulate into the shoes. But having found damage, we can glue it at home. For this we need:

special glue for rubber;

You can find glue for rubber in fishing shops, but before that, you should make sure that the boots are really made of rubber only. Otherwise, the glue may not work.

Video (click to play).

The adhesive used by cyclists is usually sold in either stationery shops or specialized places where you can find bicycle parts.

You can find car glue in stores car parts, surprisingly. Your best bet is to ask your salesperson which product is best for sealing your rubber boots.

And there are several methods by which this can be done. Let's take a closer look at how to glue rubber boots.

To seal rubber boots with bicycle glue, you need to carefully read the instructions that you can find on the tube. After that, you need to degrease the place that you are going to seal with acetone. Then take a small piece of fine-grained sandpaper, run it over the surface several times, after which you can start gluing. To do this, you need to smear the part of the boot that you are going to glue, and then get one rubber patch from the pack that comes with the glue. Peel off the tape, grease the sticky side of the patch with glue, then attach it to the rubber boot. Wait about five minutes for the glue to dry a little, then press down firmly on the patch. In this position, it must be held for several minutes, after which send the boots to a warm place to dry.
The only disadvantage of this method is that after gluing the boots do not look very presentable. This option is only suitable for old shoes that are not used for going out in people.

Gumboots can be glued with rubber glue in the same way as with bicycle glue. Only in this case you you will have to cut the patch yourself... For this, old boots, old bicycle cameras, or any other rubber products are suitable.

You can use car glue to glue the smart rubber boots on which the patch will look unacceptable. It hits even the deepest cracks and freezes there, blocking moisture from entering your boots. To do this, first wash the rubber boots thoroughly, dry them thoroughly, and then degrease the surface with acetone. Then you can apply glue: this must be done with a thin layer so as not to disturb the shape of the boots. The boots can be worn right after you tap them and the glue will dry.

Long gone are the days when rubber boots were used only for hiking in the forest or mountains. Today, even in the most prestigious shoe stores, you can find a huge variety of rubber boots. There are boots with soles and heels. There are also hiking options. And now, if you become the proud owner of these beautiful boots, no puddles and rains are terrible for you.

But, given that the order on the streets today is far from ideal, you can easily stand on broken glass, a nail or an ordinary pushpin. And it's pretty easy to puncture the rubber!

So what now, because of a small hole, to throw out practically new rubber boots?

Not at all! And today we will teach you how to properly glue your favorite boots and extend their life for a long time.

“Why glue it yourself, if you can take them to a shoemaker,” you ask. Unfortunately, in most cases you will be refused. The only thing that the shoe-makers can advise you in this case is to visit the auto repair shop, where the tires are vulcanized.

But here, too, a catch awaits us: recently, almost all motorists have switched to modern wheels, where vulcanization is not needed. This means that finding a car service with such an option, where they would agree to glue your boots, is quite problematic. So let's think about how to glue our boots yourself.

And before we start to study the methods of gluing rubber boots, it is worth noting that in this case it is not worth using ordinary PVA glue or "Moment", because at best you will not achieve any effect, and at worst - the boots will be hopelessly ruined !

If you decide to glue rubber shoes yourself, you can look for a special adhesive in stores with fishing tackle. Attention! Boots can be made not only from rubber, but also from EVA (ethylene vinyl acetate) or polyurethane. And the glue for these materials will be different.

So take a close look at your boots before heading to the store. And if you have problems with determining the material, then it is better to take the shoes with you, and in the store, experts will quickly determine what they are made of.

You can also buy special adhesive for boots in motorist stores. In this case, you should pay attention to the adhesive sealant. So you not only get rid of the hole, but you can also protect the place where the glue is applied from the ingress of excess liquid.

In order for your shoes to be as good as new, you need to determine the exact puncture site. To do this, you will need the boot itself and a small bowl of water. We take our shoes in our hands and roll up the bootleg according to the same principle as a tube of toothpaste, when there is practically no more of it left there.

And when the bootleg is rolled up quite tightly, we lower the sole into the water. Air bubbles will emerge from those places where there is a crack or puncture.

After the problem area is found, you can start restoring your shoes.

There are several methods:

Using these fairly simple methods, you can quickly and efficiently get your boots back in order, and they will serve you for quite a long time.

As a conclusion, here are some care tips that will help you keep your boots in good working order for much longer. For example, in order for your boots to look as good as new for as long as possible, you should periodically wipe them with a soft cloth dipped in water with the addition of glycerin.

And if you had to walk through puddles and you want to dry such shoes a little on a battery, then we hasten to inform you that this is not recommended. Here the fact is that under the influence of hot air, the glue with which some elements are glued can become porous.

This means that water will enter the inside of the boot. So it's best to just wipe the boots with a cloth and leave to dry naturally.

So, today we have found out how you can glue rubber boots with your own hands at home. As you can see, your shoes can still be given new life! The main thing is to do everything strictly following the instructions, and your rubber boots will delight you for a long time on rainy days!

Rubber boots are footwear necessary not only for summer cottages, but also for the city. They protect against bad weather and dirt. But it has one drawback - any nail or piece of glass is enough to make the shoes unusable. You won't be able to give such boots to the workshop, but it's a pity to throw them away. Therefore, many people prefer to repair their favorite shoes on their own.

The rubber boot must be properly cared for. And then you will not have to resort to their frequent repairs. After all, even the high quality that the manufacturer guarantees does not always mean the safety of the shoes.

Rubber boots must be properly cleaned. They are best washed with a solution of glycerin and water. In this case, the boots must be wiped with a soft cloth and dried often to prevent fungus from appearing. Wet rubber boots must not be dried with a hair dryer or battery. It is necessary that the shoes dry naturally.

In order for the repair of boots to be successful, and the shoes to serve a very long time, you need to know the following:

Rubber shoes must be very thoroughly cleaned, washed and dried before being repaired.
The patch can be cut from a tire or old rubber boots.
It is better to carefully process the patch from the wrong side with sandpaper or a file to make the surface rough for better glue adhesion.
It is best to degrease the surface of shoes with acetone and solvent.
You need to choose a special glue, on which it is necessarily indicated, for example, "shoe" or "rubber".
Before repairing rubber boots, be sure to read the instructions from the manufacturer of the glue in order to do everything right.
It is best to smear the patch and the place of gluing with special glue several times, having previously waited until the first layer dries a little.
When gluing, the surfaces must be pressed very strongly against each other or knocked on the gluing site with a hammer.
The patch on the boot can be easily masked with sandpaper.

Method 1. You can glue the boots with special glue. It can be purchased at hunting and fishing stores. But in order to get the right glue, you need to know what the shoes are made of. The fact is that for shoes made of EVA or polyurethane, different adhesive compounds are needed.

The seller can help you purchase the necessary glue by giving advice. Then everything is simple - you need to sand and degrease a part of the boot and stick a patch. If the shoes are made of a porous material, then you can glue them without using a patch. The edges at the cut site just need to be turned out, generously greased with glue and pressed against each other.

Method 2. This method requires a regular bicycle repair kit. It contains patches on special protective films, sandpaper and, of course, glue. Sand the right place on the shoes with sandpaper and degrease thoroughly.Further, having previously removed the film from the bookmark, it is necessary to apply glue to it and press the patch to the gap. You can use the shoes almost immediately, but it is better to wait at least 12 hours. The only drawback of this method is the unaesthetic appearance of the shoes after repair.

If the hole appears not on the bootleg, but on the sole, the gluing technology does not change. You just need to make the surface smooth and even, because usually the sole on such shoes is quite embossed. This is possible with a sharpening machine. And only then stick a patch on this place.

But it is important to know that such a patch will not last long, especially if the sole of the boots will very often come into contact with a rough and hard surface. Therefore, such boots are best worn, for example, when fishing. Well, if the sole breaks again, the gluing procedure will need to be repeated.

Method 3. In order to glue women's boots without using patches, etc., it is necessary to purchase a glue-sealant. This can be done at any store for car enthusiasts. First you need to degrease the gluing site, and then grease the torn edges with glue and press them together. If done carefully, the boots will look like new.

Method 4. This method of repairing rubber shoes is also called the "hot" method. It is not difficult, but it requires certain skills and, most importantly, a vulcanizer. Rubber soaked in gasoline is used as a patch. It is placed on the hole in the boot and clamped with a vulcanizer. The device must be turned on for 20-30 minutes, then turned off and cooled. Only after it has cooled down can the press be removed.

Do not despair if your favorite rubber boots are suddenly torn. It is enough to put in a little effort and the repaired boots will be no different from new shoes. You can use the sealed boots one day after the patch was applied. But if there is no time to wait, then you can walk in them in an hour.

A crack in the sole of a shoe is not such a rare occurrence. This situation is especially unpleasant when the product warranty has expired. And although it will not be possible to carry out high-quality repairs at home, it is possible to partially revive the shoes. Sometimes repaired boots or boots can be carried in for a few more months.

Next, we will discuss the methods for self-repairing a cracked sole.

To repair a cracked sole, prepare:

shoe knife;

sandpaper;

a degreasing agent such as acetone;

instant glue that sets quickly;

hook;

threads.

Repair technology:

Sand the sole surface with sandpaper.
Bend the sole to open the crack. From there, you will need to remove all the dirt, the remnants of the old factory glue, using a boot knife.
Degrease the fracture site with acetone or gasoline, apply instant glue and press the walls together. Note: shoemakers advise using Desmakol or Nairit glue. To repair the sole, you can also take Moment rubber glue, Crazy Handles epoxy sealant.
The crack was sealed, but the repair is not over yet. In order for the shoes to be worn, the bursting sole must also be stitched. Using a pencil, draw zigzag lines across the entire crack. Using a manual grinder or a boot knife, make shallow grooves along the entire marking, about 2.5 mm. Now, using your crochet hook, sew the break, placing the stitches in the grooves you made. It is advisable to sew several rows of stitches: this will be more reliable, and the top layer will protect the lower threads from abrasion.

For work, you will need the following materials:

boot knife;

sandpaper;

acetone or gasoline;

a piece of a camera from a bicycle;

rubber glue.

As in the first case, the cracked sole must be cleaned and degreased. Use a boot knife to remove part of the sole: cut 5 mm along each edge of the crack. Maintain a cutting depth of approx. 1 mm.
The next step is to measure the depth of the fracture at the bottom. Add 15 mm to the resulting value - this will be the width of the strip that needs to be cut from the camera.
Clean the cut strip, degrease well, apply rubber glue to it. Completely coat one side with glue, on the other leave 5 mm of the edges of the dry surface.
Take your damaged shoes, bend them so as to reveal the crack as much as possible. Holding in this position and not closing for 10 minutes, coat the damaged area with glue.
Bend the prepared strip from the chamber in half and push it into the crack. The sole can now be straightened. Press down on the edges of the strip protruding from the crack against the sole surface. Place your shoes under something heavy for 24 hours.

To restore the sole, you will need a soldering iron and a piece of nylon.

First of all, remove the dirt from the shoes, clean and degrease the cracked surface.
Run a heated soldering iron inside the damaged area. The outsole material will begin to bubble and become sticky.
Next, you will need to rub the melted nylon into the damaged surface. To do this, place a piece of nylon on the burst place and press it down with a soldering iron. The nylon will melt, you just have to fill the crack with it until it completely disappears.

On a note: in order to straighten the melted nylon, during operation, use not the hot tip of the soldering iron, but the handle.

For winter shoes, you can repair a thick, cracked sole like this:

Clean and dry your shoes well. Clean and degrease the crack itself.
On the inner side of the break, apply a layer of Desmokol glue, let the product stand for 10 minutes.
Smear the crack again, as usually the material from which the sole is made is porous and easily absorbs various substances. Wait 10 minutes, during this time a glossy film forms on the surface.
Preheat the adhesive using a hot air gun and press down firmly on the sides to be glued.

Note: when using Desmokol glue, the gluing quality depends on the pressure on the surface.

Repair of winter shoes with a one-component, rubber-based polyurethane adhesive. You can take the Monument PVC glue. It is also often used to repair PVC boats.

Clean and dry well the surfaces to be bonded.
Bend the sole and walk with coarse sandpaper inside the crack, degrease.
Apply glue to both sides of the defective area. Wait 15 minutes and apply another layer of adhesive. Note: all the time while the glue is applied and dries, the crack must be open.
After 5 minutes, straighten the sole, dock the surface to be repaired.
Next, to fix the sole, take a round stick, place it along and secure with a string. Place the shoes on the table, with the soles facing you, and warm them up with a hairdryer for 30 minutes. The heating temperature should be 60 ° C.

If you repair shoes in the evening, then in the morning you can already go outside in it.

If the sole of your shoes has burst, and the warranty period for the product has already expired, then it is most correct to refer the shoes to an experienced craftsman. In many cases, professional renovation allows you to extend her life from a month to a whole season, and sometimes even more. We already know how to get rid of the smell in shoes - folk remedies that are always at hand will help solve this problem. And how to repair shoes with your own hands with the help of available tools, we will now tell you.To fix a cracked sole at home, you will still need to acquire the following materials and tools:

boot knife;

emery cloth;

degreasing agent;

quick-drying glue;

boot hook and thread.

Is express repair possible in this case? If the shoes being repaired are without a protector, with a flat sole, then they can be repaired with their own hands and put on the same day. This is done like this:When sewing, more than one stitch should be sewn.This is necessary both in order to press the walls of the crack even more tightly, and so that the upper layers of the thread protect the former from possible damage in contact with a rough surface, for example, pebbles, glass, etc.Done - the cracked sole has been removed and the shoes are ready to be worn.If your shoe has a sole with a protector, then do-it-yourself express repair is impossible, because here you will have to put a sole on the sewn crack, which shoemakers call "prevention", and work with glue all over the sole. You will additionally need:

outsole material;

special shoe glue;

heating device - a powerful hair dryer or electric stove.

The algorithm of actions is almost the same as in the first method, but first you need to cut the tread from the broken sole to make it even and facilitate access to the crack.After that, follow all the same steps from 1 to 5, except that when sewing a crack, in this case, one layer of stitching will be enough, since additional protection will be glued on top of it.

Important: Do-it-yourself shoe repair with construction glue or universal "Moment" is impossible - these funds are completely inelastic. Shoemakers recommend using Dismakol and Nairit adhesives. They may have other trade names, but their composition does not change, and this is what the shoe masters call them. The former is more suitable for rubber and polyurethane products, while the latter is more suitable for leather products.

Draw a pencil around the sole of the product to be repaired on the outsole and make a pattern. This material should be thick enough to compensate for the thickness of the tread you cut from the outsole.

Apply a suitable adhesive to the outsole and the degreased inner side of the outsole. Without gluing, withstand it for 15 minutes. Then apply a second coat and wait another 15-20 minutes. Then you need to activate the glue, heating it with a hair dryer or stove to 70-80 degrees.

While still hot, the outsole should be firmly pressed against the sole, preferably with a hard object.

That's it, DIY shoe repair is complete and the shoes are saved! But you can wear it only a day after the repair - then the glue will finally adhere and dry.

Recently, rubber boots have been used not only in the country, on hikes or in the forest. Today it is fashionable and stylish footwear that saves during heavy rains and floods. Shops are full of bright and colorful boots. However, even such sturdy and stable shoes can suffer and deteriorate.

The most common problem is a punctured sole. When stepping on a shard, broken glass or even an ordinary pushpin, a hole forms in the rubber. It is very easy to puncture rubber material, as a result, they start to leak and are unusable.

But do not rush to throw out your shoes, in some cases the shoes can still be repaired. Let's find out how to glue rubber boots at home, how to patch up a hole in the sole and in the bootleg.

First, the boots must be thoroughly cleaned, washed and dried. You can glue your shoes with rubber or a patch from old rubber shoes or tires. To do this, cut out the necessary piece of rubber and process on each side with a file or sandpaper. The resulting rough surface will adhere to the glue more firmly and reliably.

Choose a special glue marked “rubber” or “shoe”. By the way, you can find rubber boots bonding agent in a car store or shops for fishermen and hunters.

Take glue-sealant is perfect. When choosing a product, consider the material for making shoes, since different products are needed for EVA and polyurethane. Do not use classic PVA or Moment under any circumstances!

Dried boots should be sanded and degreased with acetone or solvent. Before using the glue, be sure to read the instructions and follow the recommendations.

If the sole is torn, not the bootleg, you must first make the surface smooth and even with a sharpening machine. And only then you can glue the patch. Next, let's take a closer look at how to glue the sole and bootleg quickly and efficiently.

"Hot" gluing method using a vulcanizer. As a patch, take rubber, which is pre-soaked in gasoline. The resulting patch is placed on the hole, clamped with a vulcanizer and left for half an hour. Then the apparatus is turned off and cooled. Only then can the press be removed;
A standard bicycle repair kit, which includes special patches based on protective films, glue and sandpaper, will help to fix rubber shoes. Sand and degrease the desired area on the boots. Then remove the film from the bookmark, apply glue and glue to the desired place. It is advisable to wait 6-12 hours and only then use your shoes. However, the appearance of the pasted patch is not very aesthetic, so this method is suitable for repairing the sole or for using boots in places where appearance does not matter.
We repair boots using a special tool for gluing rubber shoes. This is the easiest and most affordable method. First you need to prepare the patch and boots for gluing. Do not forget to degrease the shoe surface. Apply glue to the patch and bonding area in several layers and apply each layer after the previous one dries slightly. Press the surfaces to be glued firmly and firmly together. For efficiency, you can knock on the bonding area with a hammer. To prevent the patch from being conspicuous, sand the surface on the sealed area with sandpaper;
If the boots have a porous surface, the holes can be repaired without patching. In this case, the edges at the cut site are turned inside out and liberally greased with glue, and then pressed strongly against each other;
If you use a glue-sealant, which is sold at auto dealerships, you can also repair shoes without a patch. Degrease the bonding first, then grease the torn edges and squeeze firmly together.

If you choose the right glue and carry out the procedure carefully, you will be satisfied with the repair. And for boots to last longer, you need to organize proper care for rubber shoes and repaired products. Thoroughly clean and wash boots in running water after use.

We offer some simple rules for the care and use of rubber shoes:

Wipe the outside of the rubber surface with a clean cloth. Wash very dirty shoes first in water and then wipe dry;
Colored boots are cleaned with petroleum jelly. It will retain its color and shine, and the boots will not burst and become covered with cracks;
Be sure to use shoe insoles, preferably warm. Wash the insoles every two to three months;
Do not wear rubber boots in hot sunny weather, as rubber deteriorates and fade;
Periodically lubricate the surface of the products with oil varnish with rubber glue or glycerin. This will preserve the shine of the boots;
Before long-term storage, be sure to lubricate the shoes with glycerin. Then wrap the items in newspaper or paper and put them in a cool dry place;
You can remove dark spots and streaks from rubber with a regular school eraser. It should be soft and clean;
If your foot does not fit into the narrow shaft of the boot, lower the elastic stocking inside and put on your shoes. Then the leg will fit in without problems, and the stocking after that is easy to pull out.

To keep the shoes shine and attractive for a longer time, grease the surface with oil varnish and glue for rubber, or wipe with a damp cloth with added glycerin. By the way, glycerin is an excellent means of caring for leather things. It will help to smooth the genuine leather jacket and give the product a presentable appearance. Read more about how to care for your leather jacket here.

According to the classification of the types of repair, the replacement of the sole refers to a major shoe repair. This fact often scares customers a little. However, “large” does not always mean “difficult”. Let's figure it out.

In modern footwear, most often these are:

1. Fracture (break, crack, etc. - like someone's fantasy). One or several cracks appear in the place of maximum bending, which rapidly increase. This is facilitated by contact with petroleum products (gasoline, diesel fuel, fuel oil, etc.) and solvents (acetone, 646, P12, and so on). And for some soles, just a few times is enough. Therefore, be careful at gas stations, do not walk on completely fresh spots. There are special oil resistant (oil proof) soles just for such cases.

Often it can be repaired without replacement - to repair the fracture site in some way and put a prophylactic spot.

2. Damage to the lattice in the heel of the molded soles. Usually occurs after damage (wear) to the main insole, which evenly distributes the load. It becomes uncomfortable to walk, often the sole is bent ("rides on its side"). Can be repaired without replacement - fill the grill with cubes made of heel rubber, cut out the remnants of the grill and put in a single piece. Then replace or reinforce the main insole.

3. A rift at the heel. It occurs when the instep support breaks (the intermediate piece of the bottom of the shoe, serves as a support for the arch of the foot), and the entire load falls on the sole. Usually not treated.

4. Strong tread wear.

In tourist, special (work), uniform (ankle boots) shoes, with uniform strong wear of the tread, it is often easier to replace the entire sole. Typically, these styles are fairly common and easy to match.

5. Coloring (from the word crumb, not paint (crumb in the sense of small particles, not a miniature woman)) polyurethane foam soles. The sole simply crumbles, and very quickly. It can start from anywhere - from a fracture, from a heel chipping, from peeling off (when it is clear that the sole is crumbling). This defect often occurs several years after the manufacture of shoes, and it often does not matter whether the shoes were in use or not. It is treated only by replacement.

As the name of the type of repair suggests, our task is to remove the old sole and put on a new one. The old one can be torn off both by brute force and by dissolving the adhesive film, and sometimes you even have to melt it, because it comes off in pieces, and the method of fastening is vulcanization, i.e. there is no glue film. Such soles, for example, are made by one Belarusian brand. When the workpiece is without a sole, it is convenient to revise the lining, correct, where necessary, stick the leather on the worn out areas. The next such opportunity may not be soon, if at all. Also, if you need to put patches at the lingering edge, it is also better to do them now. Then you need to choose the sole.

Molded polyurethane or thermoplastic elastomer - In most cases. The choice is from about a few dozen, but more than two types are rarely suitable for a specific pair, and sometimes there are no options at all - only one model. Then everything is boring: the sole is cleaned, the workpiece is cleaned, several layers of glue, gluing. Then I sew the soles. Not because the glue is not entirely reliable. You just need to consider: the workpiece is already worn, deformed, the sole is new, even. One way or another, some tensions will arise. Not necessarily, but it may well come off after some time (perhaps even after a year). Do we need it? It's easier to flash it right away. Moreover, in repair soles there is usually a groove for a thread.

Microporous rubber. Sheet material. Allows you to make almost any sole.

Leather, leather-like rubber, kozhvalon - for the repair and replacement of appropriate type of soles.

When is it better to replace the sole.

The general rule is if the cost of repairing soles exceeds the cost of replacing them.Earlier (a long time ago), when there was no such assortment of soles, it was possible to change a few styles. Then they tried with all their might to preserve the old one. Broken "tractor" sole? We cut off the protector, sew the fracture site, glue the microporous rubber on top. Is the heel worn out to the holes in the grille? Place a large rubber heel scar on top of the heel. Has the grill collapsed? Also solvable - we crawl under the insole, cut out and insert something. Now, in these cases, it is easier to replace the sole. Moreover, this solves the three listed tasks at once. Plus, the shoes take on an "almost new" (read beautiful) look.

When the sole should be left.

All of the above applies to black soles. Sadly, the color-coded soles are a little worse. The lineup is much smaller and they are more expensive. If you can't find a replacement sole, there is only one way out - to repair the one that is. Incidentally, this also applies to blacks. Here it is already necessary to repair exactly what needs repair. It's good that now there are a lot of colored materials like molded heels and preventive measures, there is plenty to choose from, including those with a large protector.

On sneakers and sports shoes it is advisable to glue the sticker over the entire track. Such stickers have a very high abrasion resistance, do not spoil the style, and look beautiful.

That's all for this sim. Glad you read it. Thanks!

Initially, rubber shoes were intended for fishermen and hunters, as well as for those who live in their own home and often face the need to climb into the cellar or walk around the garden. Such shoes are indispensable for walking in the abundant rain.

Times are changing, and fashion does not stand still either, and rubber boots from the working wardrobe migrated to the section of fashionable novelties, settling there, apparently, for a long time. Elegant rubber boots, sometimes with small heels, of a wide variety of colors, are happily worn by people of all generations in the off-season.

Rubber boots in bright colors are the most practical footwear. Her triumphant return to the ranks of fashion brands was especially warmly welcomed by young boats, whose children love to sail boats in deep puddles.

But even such sturdy shoes as rubber boots sometimes fail and break at the most inopportune moment. Below you will find simple and effective ways on how to repair rubber boots.

Do-it-yourself rubber boots repair

Can rubber boots be repaired on their own if they suddenly break? Certainly worth a try! Here's what you need for your restoration work:

sandpaper;
rubber glue;
an old-fashioned galosh;
scissors;
large file.

How to repair rubber boots?

The place to which it will be necessary to apply the patch should first be cleaned thoroughly with a large file, then wipe it with sandpaper, then rinse with gasoline.

Cut a patch of the desired size from the old galoshes, also clean it with a file, wipe it with sandpaper and process it with gasoline.

Take the patch. Apply rubber glue to the damaged area and patch. Let the glue dry for 15-20 minutes. Spread again, attach the patch gently and press it as tightly as possible to the damaged area.

In about an hour, you can put on your updated rubber boots again and gladly paddle in them even in the spring sun, even in huge puddles.

To keep rubber boots looking new again, they should be rinsed with cold water and wiped dry with a cloth.

How To Repair Rubber Boots - Sealing

Some have already tried the method of gluing boots with rubber glue and were immediately disappointed in it, since the patch falls off almost immediately.

The inquisitive minds of cyclists came up with a miracle method of gluing rubber boots using a repair kit for cameras. It includes ready-made patches of various sizes, sandpaper and glue.Usually, instructions for such a kit are attached. To repair rubber boots, the approximate procedure is as follows:

Mark the place on the boot that you need to patch by attaching a patch to it;
Clean the boot thoroughly with emery cloth, having previously degreased it with acetone or gasoline;
Lubricate the area selected on the boot with glue;
Remove the protective film from the patch and spread the side of the patch, which is under the film, with glue;
Let the glue dry for 10 minutes and press down.

How to repair the sole on rubber boots?

If a hole appears in the sole, then a different approach is needed here. This place must first be processed on a sharpening machine so that the working surface becomes perfectly smooth. Then we glue the patch, as usual. True, patches glued to the sole wear off much faster, therefore, you will have to repeat the gluing procedure from time to time.

Video (click to play).

It is worth noting that now most of the shoes that are marketed as rubber are actually made of PVC. Do not be intimidated by this fact and blame the sellers for deception. Plastic is a more practical material than rubber. It tolerates temperature changes better, and its natural aging period is several times longer than that of rubber.

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