DIY Audi 80 B4 suspension repair

Many elements of the front wheel suspension can be independently removed and reinstalled. For certain work, you still need tools from the workshop. In no case should the damaged parts of the suspension be straightened, let alone welded, they must be fundamentally replaced with new ones.

Removing the front suspension strut

Removing the shock absorber at the top. After removing the cover (1), you can loosen the suspension strut mounting nut using a spanner wrench (3). To do this, hold the shock absorber rod with an Allen key (2).

Removing the shock absorber at the bottom. Shown are the stabilizer link bolts (1) and the wheel bearing housing bolts (2 and 3).

When removing the shock absorber, you should take into account: if you disconnect it from the wheel bearing housing, you will have to re-adjust the wheel alignment angles, which is possible only on a measuring stand in the workshop.

For this reason, we describe here the removal of the shock absorber strut together with the wheel bearing housing.

Another addition: to tighten the upper nut of the shock absorber strut, mechanics in the workshop use a VW 3078 socket wrench.

1. Purchase a new self-locking nut and a new swing arm clamping bolt.
2. With the vehicle standing on the ground, loosen the central securing bolt of the drive shaft in the wheel hub (center of the wheel).
3. Loosen the wheel bolts.
4. Raise the vehicle evenly at the front to avoid stress on the stabilizer bar. Secure the vehicle.
5. Remove the wheel.
6. Disconnect the stabilizer link from both suspension struts, press the stabilizer up.
7. Disconnect the disc brake caliper and secure it to the body with a wire - the brake line remains connected.
8. Disengage the track rod joint.
9. Remove the axle joint clamping bolt at the bottom of the suspension strut.
10. Pull the pivot pin out of the strut using a pry bar. This separates the strut and the wishbone. In this case, under no circumstances should the slot in the wheel bearing housing be widened, for example with a screwdriver.
11. Unscrew steering wheel and remove drive shaft from wheel hub.
12. Remove the cover from the shock absorber cup in the engine compartment.
13. Remove the nut of the suspension strut from the top of the rod. To do this, hold the stem with an Allen key.
14. While doing this, hold the shock absorber strut underneath.
15. Pull out suspension strut downwards and at the same time remove it completely from the drive shaft.
16. For installation, use new self-locking nuts and a new clamping bolt of the suspension joint.
17. Install the clamping bolt so that its head points forward in the direction of travel.
18. Tightening torques: nut of the upper fastening of the shock absorber strut: 60 N • m, nut of the track rod: 30 N • m, clamping bolt of the independent suspension joint: 50 N • m, connecting rod of the stabilizer on the shock absorber strut: 40 N • m.
19. If the same shock absorber strut is installed and the bolts connecting the wheel bearing housing and the shock strut remain clamped all the time, then there is no need to adjust the wheel alignment.

Elements of the front suspension strut and the sequence of their installation

1 - spring;
2 - spring plate;
3 - suspension strut bearing;
4 - buffer;

5 - protective casing;
6 - threaded cover:
7 - shock absorber;
8 - 10 - spacer, cover.

Audi 80 front wheel suspension at close range

1 - the body of the shock absorber;
2 - bolted connections of the shock absorber housing and the wheel bearing housing;
3 - wheel bearing housing;

4 - axial hinge;
5 - clamping bolt;
6 - the lower transverse suspension arm.

Left: Tie brackets are required to separate the spring from the shock absorber when the strut is removed.

Right: The illustration shows the suspension joint clamping bolt (1) with which the suspension joint (3) is attached to the wheel bearing housing. Further indicated: the fastening nuts (2) with which the suspension joint is connected to the lower wishbone.

Replacing the front shock absorber

To carry out this work (with the shock absorber removed), a device for tension (compression) of the spring is required. You will need at least two pullers, even better three. Without the use of a spring tensioner, the spline nut at the top of the shock absorber rod must not be loosened, because the spring is in a state of strong pre-tension. Otherwise, the components of the shock absorber strut will fly apart as in an explosion - there is a great risk of accidents!

In addition, the uncompressed spring can no longer be reinstalled. Spring tensioners are available at parts stores. Next, you need the following special tools: a VW 524 wrench to loosen the spline nut and a 40-201 A tool to loosen the screw cap above the shock absorber. If you don't have them, you will have to help yourself with a large pipe wrench.

1. Remove the suspension strut (see previous section).
2. Clamp the shock absorber strut through the wooden wedges at the height of the steering knuckle arm in a vice. Never pinch the cylindrical section, otherwise you will crush the shock strut.
3. Install the spring tensioner at the spring coils and compress it slightly.
4. To prevent the spring tensioner from slipping, cover these turns with adhesive tape, if necessary.
5. Now loosen the spline nut at the top of the suspension strut. Hold the shock absorber rod with a wrench.
6. Remove the spring together with the suspension strut bearing and additional parts.
7. Remove the screw cap at the top of the shock absorber.
8. Pull out the shock absorber.
9. The factory is fitted with liquid shock absorbers. In this case, you need to pour out the old fluid from the shock absorber (special waste!) And clean its stem.
10. Install a new shock absorber cartridge without fluid.
11. The installation sequence of the constituent elements is shown in the figure on the upper right. Next, note that the color coding of the springs indicates the bottom.
12. Tightening torques: threaded cover of the shock absorber cartridge: 150 N • m, slotted nut on the shock absorber rod: 50 N • m.

Removing the front wheel bearing

The wheel bearing with its outer ring is pressed into the housing, the wheel hub is pressed into the inner ring. Under no circumstances should a new wheel bearing be driven into its place with a hammer, otherwise you will "install" the next damage together with the bearing. Therefore, it is better to remove only the shock absorber itself and disconnect the brake disc, as well as the casing. And you must entrust the actual removal and installation of the bearing to the workshop, which has a repair press at its disposal.

1. Purchase a new self-locking nut and a new swing arm clamping bolt.
2. Raise the vehicle evenly at the front to avoid stress on the stabilizer bar. Secure the vehicle.
3. Remove the suspension joint clamping bolt at the very bottom of the suspension strut.
4. Use a pry bar to press out the independent suspension pivot pin at the shock absorber strut. In this case, under no circumstances should the slot in the wheel bearing housing be widened, for example with a screwdriver.
5. Mark the installation position of the pivot on the lower wishbone.
6. Unscrew the axle joint securing nuts at the bottom from the lower control arm. Remove the hinge.
7. When screwing on the axle joint, take into account the marks made when removing the mark; in this case, the adjustment of the wheel alignment angles will remain approximately the same.
8. Do not forget the shims for the fastening nuts.
9. Tightening torques: the nuts of the independent suspension joint must be tightened to a torque of 65 N • m, the nuts of the clamping bolt to a torque of 50 N • m.
10. Carry out wheel alignment in a workshop.

Removing the wishbone

1. All self-locking nuts will need to be replaced as well as the bolts connecting the wishbone supports to the axle beam.
   The wishbone can be removed with or without the axle joint. Which bolts need to be loosened in one case or another, is described in the previous section.
2. Remove nuts for inner bushings for wishbone support.
3. If the inner bearings of the wishbone have already worn out, then before installing the lever it is better to immediately press in (in the workshop) new ones.
4. Installation: Fasten the wishbone from the outside to the wheel bearing housing or to the independent suspension pivot. You will find the tightening torques in the previous section.
5. Tighten the nuts for the inner bearings of the wishbone loosely at first. Tighten fully only when the vehicle is on its wheels. Otherwise, the wishbone bearings may become skewed.
6. Tightening torques for the nuts of the inner bearings of the wishbone: first
   40 N • m, then turn another 1/4 turn (90 °).

The arrow points to the lower mounting bolt under the rear strut on front wheel drive models.

Top suspension strut mount on the rear axle for front-wheel drive models. The arrows point to the four strut mounting bolts, the number (1) indicates the strut itself.

On Audi 80 B4 cars, a front suspension of the type McPhersonborrowed from VolkswagenPassat. In the suspension, all units are standard, so they do not differ from the b3 / v3 models before 1991. Support bearing Audi 80 (B4 (B4), B3 (B3) is located in the upper part of the front shock absorber of the car, it provides rotation of the strut at the junction of the body with the shock absorber, and also serves to perceive axial loads.

Replacing the thrust bearing Audi 80 B4 (B4), B3 (B3) done by hand in the garage, for this, read the detailed instructions, photo report. Also watch useful videos, study recommendations on the choice of spare parts and repair (homemade modernization and how to strengthen the thrust bearings).

The support of the front pillar of the Audi 80 changes independently in the garage in 1.5-2 hours, without using a special tool, read the article with photos and videos to the end in order to avoid mistakes, correctly replace and strengthen the suspension.

In order to check and diagnose the Audi 80 front pillar supports, perform a number of operations in order:

1. The shock absorber support of the Audi 80 is located under the hood, find it.
2. Press down on the A-pillar support with your hand.
3. Rock the car from top to bottom.
4. When knocks, rattling, squeaking or clicks appear in the support, it can be concluded that it is malfunctioning.

Other signs of "support" breakage:
- Deterioration of vehicle handling;
- The rod under the hood protrudes from the Audi 80 shock absorber support;
- Bumps on the road are felt more strongly through the steering wheel;
- Knock, rattle, creak and clicks under the hood when cornering or hitting holes, potholes.

To reduce the risk of breakage, it is important to know the reasons why the shock absorber support is changing: the ingress of dirt and moisture inside the "support", poor-quality parts, frequent driving over pits and irregularities.

Before starting the replacement, study the device of the front pillars of the car.

To replace and remove the support bearing of the front strut of the Audi B3 and other models, you will need a tool:

• Spanners: 16, 21, 15, 17;
• Ratchet with heads: 17, 22;
• Tie rod puller;
• Ties for shock absorber springs;
• Jack;
• Vise, torque wrench (if possible).

1. Replacing the bearing on the Audi 80 B4, B3, B3, B4 begins with removing the rack, first we loosen the wheel bolts.
2. We lift the car with a jack or a lift, remove the wheel.
3. Now we take the keys for 16 and 17.
4. We unscrew the anti-roll bar bolt that secures it to the rack.

1. Next, unscrew the two bolts securing the front pillar to the steering knuckle.

1. We unscrew the bracket that secures the brake hose to the rack.
2. We find a lever with a steering tip, unscrew the lock nut.

1. Install the puller, press out the locknut from the lever with a tip.

1. The strut has been disconnected from the bottom, now we unscrew the rod nut that secures the front strut shock absorber support to the body glass. We use a hexagon and a spanner wrench.
2. We remove the stand, fix it in a vice at the bottom. Next, we install the ties on the spring, squeeze it until the stem nut is free to unscrew.

1. After unscrewing the locknut from the thread of the shock absorber rod, disassemble the rack.
2. We remove the support element, shock absorber cup, spring and dustproof kit: buffer (bump stop) and cover (boot). Next, we move on to replacing the support bearing.

You cannot replace and install a new journal bearing without removing the stand. But if you remove the strut with a steering knuckle, then you do not need to do the camber. When dismantling the shock absorber module together with the steering knuckle, it is necessary to disconnect the knuckle from the ball joint, unscrew the hub lock nut, and then pull the assembly out of the CV joint. The above describes a method for replacing and removing a support without a steering knuckle, i.e. with unscrewing the breakup bolts.

1. Check the shock absorber for leaks, clean it from dirt. Next, we put on a new dustproof kit: a cover (corrugation, boot), compression stroke buffer (bump stop). We fasten the cover to the stem with clamps.

1. Now we install the spring, washer, then the lower support bearing cup.

1. From above we put on a new support bearing of the front strut, then we tighten the nut.

1. We tighten the nut, remove the ties from the spring. The replacement is completed, the rack is assembled, we install it on the car in the reverse order. The assembly is shown in more detail in the video:

The housing of the upper support consists of durable rubber, inside there is a metal compartment for a single-row thrust ball bearing with seals to retain grease.
Not many manufacturers produce upper supports for the Audi 80. The table shows the recommended companies, ask for these models in stores. Approximate price per piece, product catalog numbers (article numbers), as well as the composition of the repair kit, all this is displayed in the table. Print it out before purchasing parts.
Dimensions of the upper support with original number 8A0412323D:
- Height - 41 mm;
- Inner diameter - 20 (14) mm;
- Outside diameter - 74 mm;
- Weight - 0.246 g.
- Required quantity per axle - 2 pcs.

It is quite obvious that any part of the Audi chassis must be in good condition. This is especially true of the suspension, since, unlike the engine, which can fail and the Audi 80 simply will not go further, the breakdown of some suspension elements while driving can lead to a serious accident.

1. Besides the obvious safety, the chassis of the Audi 80 is responsible for a comfortable ride and good handling. The most dangerous thing is that in this case there will be a high probability of loss of control, with the next collision with an obstacle that has arisen on the road. Only regular diagnostics of the chassis of the Audi 80 will avoid this situation.

Diagnostics of the chassis Audi 80 includes checking the elements:

• springs and shock absorbers;
• levers and supports (bearings from above, silent blocks from below);
• stabilizer bushings Audi 80;
• steering rods and rack;
• wheel bearings;
• CV JOINT.

2. For Audi 80 owners with experience, it is not difficult to determine the malfunction in the suspension. Experience will tell them what the problem is by the sound and its source. Plus, the most common suspension faults sound pretty much the same in all cars.

Diagnostics of the running Audi 80 should be carried out regularly, even without showing any hints of a malfunction. It is better to do this on a lift, but it can also be done on an ordinary flyover or observation pit.

3. It is important to remember how the Audi 80 behaves in good condition, then any future malfunction will be obvious. To understand that something is wrong with a car, you do not need to be an experienced driver, and even more so, an auto mechanic.

Most often, the following signs of malfunctions of the running Audi 80 occur:

• the sudden appearance of noise, knocking, bouncing of the Audi 80 chassis, which can both disappear and remain even on a completely flat road;
• too large rolls when cornering and noticeable swaying of the body when passing bumps or when braking;
• arbitrary steering to the side, the Audi 80 leads away when driving straight;
• uneven tire wear.

4. Most often you can hear exactly the knock of the Audi 80 suspension, it indicates that the rubber elements are worn out or the fasteners that hold them are loose. There are a lot of rubber elements in the chassis, by and large, almost any suspension unit of the Audi 80 can knock, as a result, in order to accurately identify the cause of the knock, the car must be inspected from below.

If you hear a crunch, especially when cornering or with a sharp acceleration of the Audi 80, then we can say with almost complete certainty that the reason lies in a malfunction of the Audi 80 CV joint, the so-called grenade. A squeak most often occurs after replacing the stabilizer bushings, often this indicates a poor-quality bushing.

5. If the Audi 80 began to drift aside, more often it happens after the hard passage of pits and potholes, then you may have to do similarity collapse (wheel alignment of the Audi 80). At best, this will eliminate the trouble; at worst, something could bend upon impact, starting from the steering rod and ending with the steering knuckle.

If at least one of these signs occurs, it is necessary to diagnose the running Audi 80 as soon as possible. Even in the rules, operation with a faulty suspension is expressly prohibited, not to mention that it is simply dangerous.

6. Not replaced in time the silent block of the suspension of the Audi 80, which is not so expensive, can lead to a breakdown of the lever, with a price tag of one hundred dollars. Many drivers drive without paying attention to the sounds that appear in the chassis of the Audi 80, and drive until the sound becomes completely critical, or until something simply falls off, this approach is simply absurd.

7. Periodic visual inspection of the Audi 80 undercarriage will save money, after all, if you find a cracked boot or cover in time and make a prompt replacement, then the element that was protected by the boot will last longer. If, upon examining the Audi 80, an already torn boot was found, then you can be sure that soon this suspension element will need to be replaced.

After checking all the anthers, you should start diagnosing the elements of the front suspension of the Audi 80. The front suspension is more complicated than the rear one, it is subject to heavy loads, as a result, it breaks down much more often. First, we inspect the shock absorbers of the Audi 80, they should not have dents or oil leaks. You can also try to swing the shock absorber to the sides, the swing amplitude should be insignificant.

But the easiest way to check the serviceability of this suspension element is to swing the Audi 80 by pressing the corner where the shock absorber to be diagnosed is located. If, after pressing, the Audi 80, having returned to its original state, continued to swing up and down, then this indicates a malfunction of the shock absorber.

8. Next, the springs of the chassis of the Audi 80 are examined, often their turns break off, so you need to inspect them for cracks and the integrity of all turns. But here you can also determine the functionality of the springs without looking under the car.To do this, you just need to pay attention to the clearance of the Audi 80, if the car has become noticeably lower, then this already indicates a malfunction of the springs, they sagged and can no longer perform their function properly.

9. Ball and silent blocks are checked only on the bottom side of the Audi 80. To diagnose them, it is better to use some kind of metal lever to make it easier to check everything for backlash, they should not be in a working car. In the same way, the stabilizer and thrust bearings of the Audi 80 are checked. To check the wheel bearing, you need to shake the wheel, if there is play, this indicates a poor condition of the bearing.

Thanks for the video, I have a question: why did you change the stand and why hit the tip with a hammer? so it’s impossible to me, it’s necessary to shoot with a puller.

I WOULD LOVE MY B4 MORE ON REPAIR VIDEOS WELL WHEN THERE IS AN INTERNET AND SUCH VIDEOS THANKS YOU FOR YOU ARE

Hello, I have 80 B4 93g., I need to change the stance beats, which you advise back and in front so that it is not hard and not too soft.

Hello! I have an audi 80 b3! Tell me, are b3 and b4 very different in suspension?

Thank you for the video. Depressing in the design of the B-4 are the bolts connecting the steering knuckle and the glass for the shock absorber cartridge. Excessive weakening (weight increase) decrease in reliability in the sequential chain wheel-support bearing of the shock absorber strut. In B-2 it is lighter, simpler, tougher. The size of the B-4 silent blocks is visually smaller compared to the B-2. And something tells me that the V-4 beam will fit the levers from the V-2, with the stabilizer from the V-2 (so that without these unnecessary vertical beams with ball joints for 1m.39s.) They will not improve anything.

excellent, not any useless chatter, everything is very clear

I greet, I have a problem on the left counter the glass sticks out so she came from Germany, what can you advise? Thanks for the earlier!

Thank you. Everything is clear, understandable and no water.

“Muzeka” is very muddy, aftar, change the record And buy a horned steering joint puller!

Greetings to you dear friends and readers of my automobile site. In today's article, I would like to tell you how to replace the front and rear struts on an Audi 80 car with your own hands, well, as always, I will provide you with a full photo report of the repair performed, in order to clearly show the current action.

1. Tool number 1 and the most important - hands!

3. Tool # 3 - balloon wrench

4. Tool number 4 - key for 10

5. Tool number 5 - wrench 14

6. Tool number 6 - key 17

7. Tool number 7 - key for 21

8. Tool number 8 - wrench 22

10. Tool # 10 - a pipe wrench, the so-called gas.

Despite the fact that the last "eighty" Audi rolled off the assembly line almost two decades ago, or rather, in 1996, you can still find many cars of this family on our roads. Of course, very ancient rare copies, produced in the seventies, have long been used only as exhibits of technical museums and private auto collections. However, cars with the index B3, B4 are still quite intensively operated by many domestic motorists.

Taking into account advanced age Audi 80 b3 repair this favorite of summer residents and fans of life on wheels is gaining special relevance. The simplicity of the design of the car is one of its main advantages, thanks to which it has gained popularity among millions of motorists in various countries.

The mechanic, who is familiar with the front-wheel drive Togliatti models, will easily understand the structure of the "barrel", as the people call the "eighty". There are also enough spare parts for cars of this family, both branded and not quite. In extreme cases, when repairing, maintaining or modernizing the "eighties", you can use parts from the products of the domestic auto industry.

A lot is suitable. For example, the rims are exactly the same as those of the Moskvich-2141, the suspension and clutch elements are perfect from VAZ cars. Thus, it is appropriate to talk about the high degree of maintainability of the "eighty" as one of its main trump cards.Armed with the necessary arsenal of wrenches, screwdrivers of various sizes and configurations of the working part, it will not be difficult to independently disassemble the entire nose of the car.

The doors also open freely into a pair of independent segments with a few light movements of the screwdriver. And lighting fixtures can be replaced on their own in a few minutes. It all does repair and maintenance of Audi 80 b3 business simple and even somewhat pleasant. Perhaps this is one of the reasons why this model has not yet ended up in the dustbin of history.

As for the list of the most common malfunctions, then it is rather short:

• Possible problems of heating and ventilation systems
• Broken steering gear
• Ignition malfunctions due to a sufficiently old age of the car
• Malfunctions of the brake system
• And the most vulnerable place of the "eighties" is the suspension

According to experienced craftsmen, the "barrel" is devoid of any purely individual, characteristic exclusively for this model of breakdowns and defects. Of course, German engines, like all other powertrains, are afraid of overheating, the use of low-grade fuel and lubricants, underfilling and irregular maintenance.

The cooling system requires constant monitoring of the level and chemical purity of antifreeze. Although many, in order to save money, pour Tosol into the car, it is not recommended to do this in order to avoid the failure of the unit and, accordingly, the need repairing his iron friend Audi 80 b3.

Electrical equipment and even more so electronics in the "barrel" is much less than in modern high-tech cars. In addition, all the electrics of the "eighties" are distinguished by excellent operational reliability and durability.

Increased attention is required mainly to the fuel supply system. Since the "barrel" is a car of the carburetor type, it is usually equipped with complex aggregates of two types:

These carburetors, having swallowed low-grade "dirty" fuel, show their capricious character, causing functional failures and arrhythmias in the operation of the power unit. And the system of injectors and the fuel pump "barrels" equipped with the KE-Jetronic fuel injection mechanism have the unpleasant property of being clogged with solid deposits contained in low-quality combustible substances.

Therefore, it is necessary to strictly monitor the quality of the used fuel and lubricants and other process fluids. This is the key to the operational durability of the machine. According to the masters, most of the problems in the operation of reliable German engines, which are equipped with "eighties" with the B3 index, are associated with the fact that some careless drivers, in order to "match" economy, fill the tank of their car with outright rubbish.

Basically, the suspension is the weak point of all Audi cars. However, this is due not so much to any structural defects of German cars, but to the frank uselessness of most domestic roads. "Barrel" is a car of a rather old age, so problems with the suspension are extremely common for it.

The very design of this mechanism allows you to carry out all repair work in parts and replace parts separately. If any element breaks down, it will need to be replaced. In no case should you resort to editing and restoration of a broken part. The main functional part of the suspension is the shock absorber strut. Therefore, all repairs, as a rule, consist in her dismantling and replacement.

This procedure is carried out according to the following algorithm:

1. The vehicle is parked on a level horizontal surface, and then the fastener (bolt or nut) located in the center of the hub is unscrewed
2. The remaining wheel bolts are methodically loosened
3. The car is jacked up to the same height on both sides
4. Then the stabilizer post is disconnected from the transverse suspension arm
5. The brake caliper is removed
6. The clamping bolt of the hinge device located at the bottom of the stabilizer bar is removed.
7. The articulated steering linkage is disconnected
8. The pry bar is used to remove the suspension rod from the shock absorber strut
9. Next, a puller is installed, with which the drive shaft is removed from the hub
10. And finally, in the engine compartment, the cap is removed from the dome of the shock absorber

Such work on repair of the suspension on the Audi 80 b3 can be carried out by one person in a garage. In general, the old "eighties" are surprisingly strong, hardy, maintainable and friendly machines.

Hi Vadim. Video cognitive. I have a question about the price of spare parts for the Audi 80 and the price of consumables could not write or maybe vidos zapilish.

The prices for spare parts are reasonable, very cheap ones will naturally go less. It depends on the owner's budget and it is also important to find a dealer without intermediaries! There are many more factors such as driving style, road quality, etc. Good luck!

Subscribe to my channel dedicated to repairing the Audi 80 B4 there you will find many interesting videos! Happy viewing!

Tell me how to tighten the bolts. By virtue of ?? I'm afraid to rip off !! How to tighten the bolts

The main thing is to first make money by hand, there is a floating nut, then tighten it tightly, but without fanaticism, you can break everything!

I have a question for you ! And the silent blocks that you changed in this video are the same in size or have differences in the front and back?

Yes, yes, there are small differences! The second time I looked more closely, you showed everything there.

The video should have a description of the silent, if they are different, I will voice it!

Like me! I also have rear backlash, and front ones. I will change according to your video!

The main thing is to make money so that the thread does not break!

And when you put the stretcher on the 12-bolts, did you clamp it very tightly, or a little weaker? I'm afraid to ruin the thread!

Thank you, I'm glad the video came in handy!

good video !! Thank you Vadim, I will take off my stretcher, change s / blocks.

Yes, everything is fine, but I would change all four silencers so that I do not have to repeat the repair procedure in a year, I always change the units completely, after which you can safely forget about the problem, if, of course, high-quality raw materials are installed.

I put VADIM BRAGA a year ago, I already said to change, I took some branded ones, now you don’t know which ones to take

I totally agree, but not me for this, there are high-quality silent and without backlash! Probably hard to believe that they only worked for me for 8 years.

AUDI 80 B4 HOW TO REPLACE THE SUBFRAME SILENT BLOCKS WITH YOUR OWN HANDS. HOW TO REMOVE THE SUB-FRAME. HOW TO REMOVE THE BALL JOINTS. HOW TO REPLACE THE STABILIZER RUBBERS.

good video!
1.What kind of electrical tape under the rubber bands of the stabilizer arm? in Latvia, for such an insulating tape, 2 would have been installed and the technical inspection has not been passed)))
2. you have a campaign and the oil seal on the gearshift rod (on the box) is leaking and dripping onto the catalyst! I had it and it smelled like burnt butter! and then the smoke was smelly!

VADIM BRAGA and I respect people like you. Thanks for understanding.
p.s. Only strong and smart people accept criticism.

Thanks for the advice! I always listen to people and take criticism normally.

VADIM BRAGA I set the standard one. but when installing, I hit the stock with a key. maybe from

for this and leaks now. will change my advice. put a new one, do not harden it with anything. immediately after the new one, put the old one on the stem and screw everything into place and then turn on sharply 2 or 4 speed and the new oil seal carefully. sticks into place. then you take off the old oil seal and the truncated is ready.
but not for me to teach you) you are smart. I just checked it that way.

There, it seems, the development on the stock and the standard oil seal will not work, but I will definitely find out.

tell me a stretcher with levers from audi b4 to audi 80v3

It will not work, on b3 the pillows are differently and the lateral stability rods are different too.

in my opinion no! but I could be wrong! I changed myself on b4 and searched only for b4! as far as I remember there is a difference in some kind of shelf for a pillow!