DIY gas 3102 suspension repair

One of the main advantages of the GAZ-31105 is the pivot-free suspension. The difference between this design is improved endurance. Noise and knocking while driving will now not so often annoy the driver and passengers of this car. In addition, now there is no need to do periodic injection of the system, and the repair and operation of the Volga 31105 have become noticeably easier and more convenient.

Side view of the car GAZ 31105

The front suspension scheme is pivotless, located on the levers, with coiled springs, ball springs, shock absorbers and a stabilizer. At its base there is a beam made of hardened steel metal, on which all the main structural details are located. The strength of its connection with the frame gives the presence of a rod attached to the side members at one end, and the other - fastened to its center.

The design and arrangement of the front suspension on the car Volga 31105

The upper arm is made of carbon steel, secured with two bolts through the bushings. On the outer edge of this lever there is a platform in which there are special openings for fastening the ball (the connection is made using four bolts).

The structure of the lower arm is connected from two elements: front and rear, made of the same carbon steel. They are connected with a spring. The outer edges of both lever elements are held together by a single bolt. The inner edges are held using two bolts through the bushings and connected to the beam.

It looks like the front suspension of the Volga 31105

The swing arm is connected to the inner knuckle. From the outer edge, a trunnion is attached to it, on which there are lugs for connecting to the brake mechanism and the axle. The hub is driven by two bearings, in which the clearance is adjusted by rotating the hub nut.

The anti-roll bar consists of a bar and two struts. The bar is fixed in two places to the car body with metal pins softened with rubber pads.

Anti-roll bar Volga gaz 31105

The front suspension device is a complex design. If a knocking or extraneous noise appears, check and diagnose its condition to prevent unexpected breakdowns.

Causes and solutions to the problem:

• shock absorber breakage. The GAZ-31105 suspension uses a collapsible shock absorber, so you can change it or repair it;
• the development of rubber seals used in the connection of some elements, as a result of which a periodic knock will be heard in the trunk area. Replacement of worn-out rubber bands is required.

Useful advice! The price of these rubber elements is low. Therefore, it is recommended to buy the entire set of pillows and replace them completely.

• development of the hinge of the levers - replace them with new ones;
• the ball joint is worn out (the hinge of the stabilizer struts is broken). It is required to replace the struts together with the hinges;
• wear of the ball joints of the lever - replacement of the joints;
• large clearance in wheel bearings - clearance adjustment, bearing replacement;
• sagging, broken spring arch - replacement of the old spring with a new one.

We jack up and hang the front of the car.
Disconnect the anti-roll bar from the side members (see. Removing the anti-roll bar).

Using the “24” head, unscrew the extension nut.

Using the “24” wrench, turn the lock nut by about 20 mm.

Using the “14” key, turn the brace out of the beam.

... and take out the cross member with the towing ring.

Using the “14” head, unscrew the two lower bolts securing the axle of the upper levers.

... on the other side, remove the top bar. (cm. Removing the axis of the upper levers).

We support the crossbar (beam) with a jack.

Using the “22” head, unscrew the two bolts securing the beam to the spar.

Remove the cross member mounting bar.

... and a cross member mounting bracket.

We perform the same operations on the other side of the car, after which we smoothly lower the jack, monitoring the uniformity of the lowering of the suspension.
Install the suspension in reverse order.

Hello everyone, I bought a ball suspension instead of the killed pins. Outwardly, it resembles a rusty piece of iron, but it seems like the main iron is intact. I honestly do not even know where her ass is and where in front, but I have a persistent desire to sort out her ITSELF and put it on the car. Due to the fact that I have no idea which seals and other rubber bands are in good condition, and which ones are in bad condition (although they look like they are all in bad condition), I had a desire to change ALL of them, tk. I think that in bulk they cost a penny (and in fact there are not so many of them), and the unit will work better and longer.

But the trouble is, how they are called, what their part number, etc. I have not the slightest idea, therefore I ask knowledgeable people to share a link pdf file material, which indicates the details of the suspension up to bolts and rubber bands. I'll come to the store with a list and buy everything from it =)

How to sort out is described in the repair instructions, which are both in paper form and in electronic form.
Part numbers in catalogs, which are also electronic, can be found in many online catalogs, for example

So we study, if necessary, we look for suitable topics and ask questions, a lot has already been discussed here.

To view links or images in signatures, you must have at least 0 message (s). You now have 0 message (s).

To view links or images in signatures, you must have at least 0 message (s). You now have 0 message (s).

To view links or images in signatures, you must have at least 0 message (s). You now have 0 message (s).

How to sort out is described in the repair instructions, which are both in paper form and in electronic form.
Part numbers in catalogs, which are also electronic, can be found in many online catalogs, for example

So we study, if necessary, we look for suitable topics and ask questions, a lot has already been discussed here.

This is the topic, thank you very much !!) Just what you need)) Tell your phone in HP, I will throw a small present on it in gratitude (if you don't mind)

Added after 18 minutes 23 seconds
By the way, a follow-up question.

1 - this is what kind of grease should I lubricate the connections in the suspension during disassembly / assembly

2 - what means to clean iron from rust and dirt suspension metal

(almost never dealt with iron)

Added after 2 minutes 56 seconds

no matter how ... I thought so too until today ..

Added after 1 minute 13 seconds

I am doing the same thing - so contact me .. although sometimes I myself have no less questions ..

Added after 3 minutes 27 seconds

1 - this is what kind of grease should I lubricate the connections in the suspension during disassembly / assembly

2 - what means to clean iron from rust and dirt suspension metal

(almost never dealt with iron)

Added after 2 minutes 56 seconds

I highly doubt that the seller will be able to sell all the rubber bands to me right away without a mistake

1. Always specify which connections - there are hundreds of them .. and they can differ significantly ..

2. means? by hand

.. to help you with a drill with a brush and a steel brush .. after cleaning - degrease and paint .. I covered in two layers with a black primer for metal ..

3. if you doubt correctly - either we take a sample with us (maybe even a broken one) or a columbus .. thread gauge .. as practice has shown - there are only one in a hundred who know.

Added after 9 minutes 43 seconds
Before you go to the store with a list - this list must be compiled .. and for this you need to disassemble the suspension almost by bolts .. special attention to silent blocks and bearings .. if the fasteners are very bad - do not be redneck - we change ..
First, soak the rust - smear all the joints, bolts, nuts and so on with kerosene .. yes, thicker .. you can even repeat it in a couple of days .. if you don’t plan to change the silent blocks, try not to get kerosene on the rubber ..

Added after 3 minutes 45 seconds
While the rust gets wet - look at the tool .. the work is not difficult, but sometimes hard .. buy a spring puller, a ball pin puller, a head with a knob for a hub nut .. sliding pliers for a hub nut cap .. a short sledgehammer ..

The king pins are the part of the front suspension that controls the handling of the vehicle. The wheels are attached to the beam through the pivots. Driving safety depends on their condition. During the operation of the car, the pivots require constant lubrication. In the event of large backlash in the suspension, it is required replacement of pivots with gas 3110.

• jack;
• wheel stops;
• a set of keys;
• screwdrivers;
• hammer and chisel;
• breakdown;
• a set of original pins with the number 3110-3001120.

The car must be put on the handbrake and turned on the first gear, then lift with a jack and remove the wheel.

Next, you need to remove the brake caliper from the steering knuckle. To do this, unscrew two bolts on the caliper: one from the bottom, the second from the top. After unscrewing the caliper, it must be removed from the brake disc, taken to the side and tied up so as not to damage the brake hose.

Disconnect the steering rod from the steering knuckle. To do this, unscrew the nut on the steering tip finger and squeeze the finger out of the steering knuckle eyelet.

Further, a stop is placed under the lower arm of the car, and the car is slightly lowered on the jack until the spring is compressed. Then the upper and lower bolts are twisted and knocked out, which secures the steering knuckle to the upper and lower levers.

The removed steering knuckle assembly is cleaned of dirt, then the grease fittings are turned out so as not to damage it during disassembly.

Using a sharp punch and a hammer, the corkscrew pin is knocked out through the hole in the steering knuckle.

Leaning with a chisel on the side of the kingpin, and tapping it with a hammer alternately in both directions, the plugs of the kingpin are knocked out, after which the kingpin is knocked out.

Next, the rack is removed, the thrust bearing with rubber protection, as well as shims (they come in five sizes from 0.8–1.6 mm, in increments of 0.2 mm).

Through the holes with a screwdriver, the rubber o-rings of the needle bearings are removed.

With a hammer and a punch of the appropriate size, the needle bearings of the king pin are knocked out.

Installing a new king pin is carried out in the reverse order, provided that there are two holes in the needle bearing housing.

When installing the lower bearing, it is necessary to align two holes: one with the hole of the grease nipple, the other with the hole for lubricating the lower threaded joint. When installing the upper needle bearing, it is also necessary to line up the hole with the grease nipple. The thrust bearings are lubricated when assembling the unit.

During operation, the king pin is worn only on one side; to increase its service life, it can be turned. The pivot has a groove for a corkscrew pin. With an increase in wear of more than 0.3 mm, the pin can be knocked out, and the part can be rotated 90 degrees, while replacement of pivots on GAZ 3110 can be postponed to a later date.

Checking the suitability of the front suspension for further operation is carried out without removing it from the car. This operation consists in checking: spring settlements, shock absorbers operability, the presence of play in the suspension joints and bearings of the front wheel hubs, the adequacy of the camber and caster adjustment reserves, as well as inspecting the condition of the cross member and lower arms for cracks or damage from impacts.

The suspension springs need to be replaced when, under a load of five people, the clearance from the platform on which the car is installed to the cross member has decreased by 150 mm with a tire rolling radius of 295 mm.If the rolling radius of the tires at the recommended tire pressure is less than the specified value due to wear, then a corresponding correction must be made. The rolling radius is determined by measuring the distance from the axle of the steering knuckle to the floor. Springs should also be replaced if there are frequent sharp shocks felt in the suspension when driving over irregularities, unless this is caused by poor shock absorbers or damaged or damaged limiting buffers.

The shock absorber needs to be replaced or repaired if, after swinging the front of the car behind the wing in the parking lot, vibrations stop in more than two rolls, and also if (with normal suspension springs) sharp shocks are felt on the move. It also needs to be replaced or repaired if the oil seal leaks.

The backlash in the suspension joints is checked with the vehicle suspended. The jack must be placed under the spring support cup and the vehicle must be raised so that the wheel does not touch the floor, and there was a gap between the recoil buffer mounted on the upper arms and the cross member. Otherwise, it is not possible to correctly determine the amount of backlash.

Backlash in the suspension joints is determined by swinging the wheel. Clearances in the hinges of the suspension arms are necessary for the passage of lubricant and to compensate for possible distortions when adjusting the caster. Under load, the clearances are selected, as evidenced by the one-sided wear of the threaded bushings. Therefore, even with their large value, these clearances do not have any effect on tire wear and vehicle stability. On a new car, the gaps in the mating of the threaded bushings can be up to 0.3 mm. On working parts, gaps of up to 1.2 mm are allowed; therefore, they should not be replaced prematurely.

When the car is operated on the kingpin, one-sided wear appears (indentation of the bearing needles), which manifests itself as "kingpin play".

The pivot play is determined by swinging the wheel. The pivots need to be replaced or turned with the used side if the strut boss, when swinging, is displaced relative to the steering knuckle strut boss by no more than 0.3 mm.

The backlash can be eliminated by turning the kingpin by 900 and thereby load the previously worked surfaces, for which there is a second semicircular flat on the kingpin. This operation can be done without disassembling the steering knuckle. It is only necessary to remove the locking pin, turn the kingpin with a key for the flat flat, which has in the middle, until the hole for the pin coincides with the second semicircular flat and fix it with a pin in this position.

Purpose, principle of operation of the starter
The starter motor (Fig. 1) is a powerful DC electric motor that is used to start a car engine. By simply turning the key in the ignition switch to the “Start” position, the current through the relay is supplied from the battery.

Determination of the number of workers in the wagon assembly area
The industrial and production personnel of the wagon-assembly section are divided into four categories: - workers (production and auxiliary); - engineering and technical workers (ITR); - accounting personnel (UPC); - junior obs.

Anti-icing system
The anti-icing system (POS) is designed to protect the aircraft from icing. According to the method of removing ice from the protected surface, the POS subsystems are subdivided into: - air-thermal (VT); - electrothermal (ET); - POS plane.

Having owned the Volga, I have repeatedly faced the repair of the front suspension. It was on 24 Volga and on 29 and 3110. The manipulations are not too complicated, but rather laborious. Faced on the Volga GAZ-3110 once again with the replacement of pivots, I began to think.

Reflections poured into memories. I tried to remember how many times I changed the king pin, threaded bushings, sayen blocks. Of course, you can't remember everything, but the main parts that required replacement were as follows.The pivot bearings nursed me 50-100 thousand kilo-meters. Pads on drum brakes up to 40 thousand km, about the same number were nursed by threaded bushings. I started to wonder how much a pendant assembly costs in a store, it turned out to be over 30 thousand. There was no desire to invest additionally in the modernization of not a new car.

A familiar taxi driver on the Volga-31105 added fuel to the fire, who traveled 250,000 km on his own suspension and did not change anything except the pads. I have never been able to achieve such results on a pivot suspension. I came to the solution of this problem and drove to the service station with a request, if possible, to remake the suspension from pivots to balls. Their answer discouraged me. In their words, they will easily repair my own suspension, but they will not redo it due to the high cost and unsuccessful performance of the new suspension.

No one canceled the law of chance, and when I met an old acquaintance and talked to him about my problem, I learned the opposite from him. The service is muddied, but in fact they walk very well and where have you been before. Since the price of a used ball suspension is 10 thousand rubles and he has an acquaintance when replacing the old one at such a price and sold it. But you call in a week, his acquaintance on the service Volga will change to a new one, so that I don’t forget. A week later, I called him back and heard the following answer. Come tomorrow, bring the money and take your own harness. The next day I visited him. We drove with him to the factory and the suspension is in my trunk. Having brought the suspension to my place, I did not waste time and started replacing the suspension next Saturday.

To do this, I raised the front of the car with a jack and placed bars under the thresholds. Then he removed the wheels, disconnected the brake hoses, knocked the steering pin out of the bipod, and removed the swingarm from the subframe. Then he unscrewed the stabilizer sayenblocks and the engine mudguard. Unscrewed the engine mountings from the engine paws. I installed a rhombic jack behind the beam and raised the engine a little. Then he unscrewed the bolts securing the upper arms on each side and pulled out the nuts from the plate frame. Then he unscrewed the four bolts from the bottom and removed the beam assembly. He pulled it aside and proceeded to install the beam with the balls. First, I fixed the lower bolts without tightening them, and then the horizontal bolts of the upper arms. Then he extended them thoroughly.

I put the jack under the lower arm and lifted the trunnion. I didn’t find any backlashes when I pushed the hub up and down. Then I checked the other side in the same way, after this checking procedure I connected the brake pipes, put the stabilizer link in place and screwed on the engine mountings. Then he put the lever of the pendulum. The engine mudguard had to be fixed further, due to the fact that when removing the mudguard, many bolts and screws simply broke off and had to be drilled out and tapped by 8.

Then came the next operation to remove the bipod from the steering gear. This operation took a long time and could not be removed in any way until he resorted to a cardinal solution. With the help of the grinder, things went faster and I finally managed to remove the bipod. The bipod on a car with a power steering is different for the old and new suspension, the installation of the new bipod went smoothly and the steering rod was bolted to it. After installing the wheels, I made a test drive. I missed to mention that it took me about five hours for the rearrangement.

Suspension view from the right side of the machine

Having left in my car with a different suspension, I was glad to have more precise controllability, even a feeling of a narrower turning radius appeared. The car began to pass the pits at a higher speed, which is facilitated by a more toasted anti-roll bar. In turns, the car became more stable and, most importantly, this feeling of a trip like on a ship disappeared, the imposingness and the desire to sail along the road disappeared. I didn't converge on it, but at first I looked very carefully behind the tires.I did not reveal any increased wear of the rubber.

In the summer I went by car to the sea. Rest is a good thing and therefore the rest was delayed a little, it's time to go home. I was driving home from Dzhubga not in a hurry with breakfasts and dinners. I got home to Moscow in 18 hours. Three months later, the only fine of 100 rubles came. It turned out that the excess was near Krasnodar. One sign comes out overlooked. In terms of consumption in the middle of the day, a 55 liter tank is enough for 500 km. A tank of liquefied gas at 120 km according to the speedometer is also enough for up to 500 km, but on gas it is more sensitive to work with the gas pedal. Over the entire period, I hit about 30,000 km on a ball suspension and did nothing with it. True, the root sheet of the rear right spring broke. My conclusion is that the new suspension is much better than the old one!

This is how the front suspension of the GAZ-31105 type looks like on balls

Dear, paying tribute to the work done by you, it is impossible not to note the following fact. From Dzhubga to Moscow 1500 km. You can travel this distance in 18 hours only in a fairy tale, where there are no trucks, cities, traffic lights, traffic police posts, the dim sun always shines, the road is dry and flat, there is no speed limit and there is no need to sleep, eat or go to the toilet.
In real life, if you drive at a speed of 110 km / h, which in itself is a violation, the average speed will be 70 km / h. Accordingly, the total time is 21 hours. This is provided that you do not stop to sleep.

A lot, a little for the road is not an indicator. I wrote it as it was. The younger comrades, on the contrary, say: We arrived faster.
My very first big daily mileage was on the Pobeda car on the Pavlodar-Shadrinsk 1240 km route.
On a super, under favorable circumstances, the daily mileage is 1,000 km.
Last winter, on Iveka, for three and a half days, the mileage was 2800 km, although, by the way, the load in the truck was about 6 tons.
In principle, on the road, I try never to rush and go according to road conditions.
Unfortunately, I also do not have sports methods of driving a car.

- before checking the wheel alignment, check the condition of the rubber bushings of the upper and lower suspension arms. A noticeable displacement of the heads of the levers on the bushings and through wear of the bushings are not allowed. Replace worn bushings;

- Lubricate the threaded joints of the front suspension and the bearings of the pivot pins.

When operating the vehicle in mountainous terrain, on unpaved roads, or on roads with gravel or crushed stone, the lubrication frequency is reduced to 4000 km.

- lubricate the threaded joints and bearings of the pivots, as with a run of 5000 km;

- check the condition of the rubber bushings of the suspension arms, as with a mileage of 5000 km;

- check the condition of the shock absorber strut cushions. Wear of the pillow wall up to a thickness of 6 mm is allowed;

- check the condition of the stabilizer bar pads. Through wear of pillows is not allowed;

- check the clearances between the outer bushings of the threaded joints and the ends of the heads of the suspension arms by shifting the protective rubber rings to the outer diameters of the bushings.

- check and, if necessary, tighten the front suspension to the side members, the upper arm axles to the suspension cross member, the upper arm axle nuts, the threaded joint pin nuts.

- check and, if necessary, adjust the bearings of the front wheel hubs.

After 60,000 km, replace the grease in the front wheel hubs.

Once a year (in autumn), check the play in the bearings of the pivot assembly with the wheels hanging.

Rear Suspension Maintenance consists in periodically tightening the nuts of the ladders, spring pins and pins of the lower mounting of shock absorbers, as well as in the lubrication of the leaf springs that do not have gaskets.

Maintenance of shock absorbers.

The shock absorbers do not require any adjustment during operation. They should not be removed from the vehicle unless necessary, nor should they be refilled with fluid.

After the first 5,000 kilometers, it is useful to remove the shock absorbers from the vehicle and tighten the reservoir nut. The nut should be tightened smoothly, without jerking, with the effort of one hand. Timely tightening of this nut compensates for the initial shrinkage of the rubber O-ring and cuff, which significantly increases the reliability of the further operation of the shock absorber.

After 20,000 km of run, check:

- and, if necessary, tighten the nuts securing the lower end of the shock absorber to the spring cup of the front suspension and the nuts securing the lower end of the rear shock absorber to the spring gasket pin.

- condition of rubber bushings, cushions and shock absorber joints. End-to-end wear of rubber elements is not allowed;

- no leakage of shock absorbers. No fluid leakage from the shock absorber is allowed.

It is recommended to disassemble the shock absorbers, rinse them with kerosene and fill them with fresh shock absorber fluid once every three years or after having driven 100,000 km. Shock absorbers should also be disassembled if there is a strong leakage of fluid, or in the event of a knock in the suspension, due to the lack of effort to resist the shock absorber due to fluid loss.

Maintenance of wheels and tires.

Every 20,000 km of run, it is recommended to rearrange the tires on the vehicle to ensure uniform tread wear and maximum tire mileage according to the schemes shown in Figure 4.

Figure 4 - Scheme of rearrangement of wheels:

A - without the participation of a spare wheel; B - with the participation of a spare wheel.

If an uneven wear of the front wheels is found, the causes that cause it must be eliminated and the wheels must be rearranged regardless of the mileage.

5. Repair of the front suspension GAZ 3102

Checking the suitability of the front suspension for further operation is carried out without removing it from the car. This operation consists in checking: spring settlements, shock absorbers operability, the presence of play in the suspension joints and bearings of the front wheel hubs, the adequacy of the camber and caster adjustment reserves, as well as inspecting the condition of the cross member and lower arms for cracks or damage from impacts.

The suspension springs need to be replaced when, under a load of five people, the clearance from the platform on which the car is installed to the cross member has decreased by 150 mm with a tire rolling radius of 295 mm. If the rolling radius of the tires at the recommended tire pressure is less than the specified value due to wear, then a corresponding correction must be made. The rolling radius is determined by measuring the distance from the axle of the steering knuckle to the floor. Springs should also be replaced if there are frequent sharp shocks felt in the suspension when driving over irregularities, unless this is caused by poor shock absorbers or damaged or damaged limiting buffers.

The shock absorber needs to be replaced or repaired if, after swinging the front of the car behind the wing in the parking lot, vibrations stop in more than two rolls, and also if (with normal suspension springs) sharp shocks are felt on the move. It also needs to be replaced or repaired if the oil seal leaks.

The backlash in the suspension joints is checked with the vehicle suspended. The jack must be placed under the spring support cup and the vehicle must be raised so that the wheel does not touch the floor, and there was a gap between the recoil buffer mounted on the upper arms and the cross member. Otherwise, it is not possible to correctly determine the amount of backlash.

Backlash in the suspension joints is determined by swinging the wheel. Clearances in the hinges of the suspension arms are necessary for the passage of lubricant and to compensate for possible distortions when adjusting the caster. Under load, the clearances are selected, as evidenced by the one-sided wear of the threaded bushings.Therefore, even with their large value, these clearances do not have any effect on tire wear and vehicle stability. On a new car, the gaps in the mating of the threaded bushings can be up to 0.3 mm. On working parts, gaps of up to 1.2 mm are allowed; therefore, they should not be replaced prematurely.

When the car is operated on the kingpin, one-sided wear appears (indentation of the bearing needles), which manifests itself as "kingpin play".

The pivot play is determined by swinging the wheel. The pivots need to be replaced or turned with the used side if the strut boss, when swinging, is displaced relative to the steering knuckle strut boss by no more than 0.3 mm.

The backlash can be eliminated by turning the king pin 90 0 and thereby load the previously worked surfaces, for which there is a second semicircular flat on the king pin. This operation can be done without disassembling the steering knuckle. It is only necessary to remove the locking pin, turn the kingpin with a key for the flat flat, which has in the middle, until the hole for the pin coincides with the second semicircular flat and fix it with a pin in this position.

Complete disassembly of the front suspension is rarely necessary. In most cases, during the operation of the car, you have to do partial disassembly of the suspension in order to eliminate individual malfunctions and replace worn or damaged parts without removing the suspension.

The front wheel hub is not repaired and must be replaced if one or more wheel bolts are loosened, as well as when the seating surfaces under the outer rings of the bearings are worn.

The hub bearings need to be replaced if there are cavities on the raceways of the inner and outer rings and rollers, as well as if there are chips on the flanges of the inner rings of the bearings or cracks and ruptures of the 9 cage. They also need to be replaced if the bearings have darkened from excessive heat, misaligned bearings, or lack of grease in the hub.

The cuff is replaced when the outer diameter decreases, the working edge hardens or there are cracks on it due to the "aging" of the rubber. With a decrease in the outer diameter, the seal on it can be broken, and the cuff itself can come out of the seal in the hub, thereby allowing the lubricant to flow freely into the cavity of the brake drum, which is unacceptable.

The bracket is replaced with new ones if the diameters of the seating surfaces of the journals for the inner rings of the bearings on the trunnion are worn out. It is allowed to increase the diameters of the journal journals under the bearings with chrome plating followed by grinding the journal journals. In this case, the runout of the seating surfaces must be maintained within 0.01 mm. It is not allowed to increase the diameters by deforming the seating surfaces by punching with dots, pressing out the slots or in any other way. Remove the thrust bearing seal from the bearing and rinse them thoroughly with kerosene. The thrust bearing must be replaced with a new one if uneven rotation is felt during its rotation. If the lip of the seal has uneven wear or is hardened or cracked, then the seal also needs to be replaced.

The king pin and needle bearings should generally be replaced at the same time. Pivots are subject to replacement, at which one-sided "wear" appears at the ends, which manifests itself as a kingpin play. In the event that the bearing needles have ceased to rotate in their housing as a result of the formation of rust or "dry" wear products due to a violation of the maintenance intervals, the pivot-bearing pair must also be replaced. Threaded and threaded spacers are replaced with new ones if the radial clearance in their mating has exceeded 1.2 mm or if they stop rotating relative to each other due to a violation of the lubrication intervals during maintenance. In any case, they should be replaced at the same time in pairs.

Before you start tuning Gas 3102 with your own hands, you should decide what exactly you want to do. As a rule, the car undergoes minor modifications to the body and headlights. The interior of the model does not go unnoticed either. As for the technical improvement, here you can also dream up. True, it costs much more than the aesthetic part of the tuning.

Very often unpretentious owners of the Volga complain about disgusting dashboard lighting. Behind the GAZ 3102 scales there are only a few small bulbs that are not capable of high-quality illumination of the shield. Because of this, you have to bend down and peer at the scales to see the indicators. Solving the problem of insufficient backlighting is much easier than it seems. To do this, it is enough to replace the standard bulbs with several LED lights. Such an improvement is often used when tuning the GAZ 3110 and other models of the domestic Volga.

Gas 3102 In addition to diodes, you will need to prepare for work:

• pliers;
• screwdrivers and keys;
• double sided tape;
• sealant;
• a gel pen or marker;
• soldering iron;
• resistors 520 ohm;
• rubber cambric.

First you need to remove the dashboard and take it out of the car. Taking this opportunity, it can be cleaned of dust and degreased. Next, we start working directly with the scales. We disconnect all devices from the panel and untwist them. We disassemble sensors, speedometer and clock. We remove the scales and carefully detach the arrows. Next, take the scales and erase the white paint from them. Instead, paint the elements with a blue or red marker. Then we take the LEDs and solder the resistors to them. We push the wiring into the cambric so as not to damage it. Next, using a sealant, we attach the diodes to the dashboard and assemble the scales. We place them in place in the dashboard and install the panel in its place in the cabin. Next, we connect the diode wiring to the standard Volga light guide. We start the car and, if the backlight works, we finally fix the shield.

Recommended reading:

• ZAPOROZHEZ + BMW EQUALS ... DRIFT: TUNING ZAZ-968
• "Moskvich-401" - DIY tuning
• Tuning GAZ 69 - how to make the legendary model more modern
• Tuning ZAZ 968m –The best options for modernization!
• Tuning UAZ Patriot - design solutions to improve the SUV
• Tuning ZIL 130 - modern ways to improve
• Tuning Luaz - we improve the rarity, while maintaining individuality
• Tuning Moskvich 2141 - drastic changes for maximum effect
• Tuning GAZ 66 - we improve the characteristics of the Russian SUV

Despite the need to completely disassemble the panel, you should not be afraid of such work. As practice shows, anyone can handle this method of improving the salon. The main thing is to act clearly according to the specified algorithm.

Gas 3102 is equipped with good standard optics. The standard headlights of the car have a rectangular shape and a bulge recognizable for the Volga. They do their job quite effectively, however, these elements of the car can be made even better by installing the original glow strips. Do-it-yourself optics tuning, as a rule, is not complete without LEDs. This method was no exception. First, the owner of the Volga will need to make bright strips of diode tapes and acrylic glass, after which it will be possible to carefully install them in the headlights of the car.

Gas 3102 with new optics For revision you need to purchase:

• transparent and white matte plexiglass;
• white diode tape 120 cm long;
• colored tape 240 cm long;
• foil;
• black Oracal film;
• epoxy adhesive;
• plastic corner.

First you need to cut the corner into equal thin strips and paint them. Next, we take a transparent and frosted plexiglass and cut it into the same strips. As a result, you should get 6 identical strips no more than 2 cm wide. After that we take colored LED strips and glue them under the bottom of the strips. Glue white tapes to the remaining strips. We solder colored tapes to each other.We do the same with white diodes. This is how we made the headlight strips.

Next, we take the foil and glue it to the upper surface of the strips with colored diodes. On top of the foil we glue the black film, cut off the protruding corners. After that, your stripes should look like black sticks. We connect the tape to the controller. First we check the colored, and then the white ribbon. If everything is on, then you can install the backlight in the headlights of the car. To do this, we dismantle and disassemble the Volga optics. On the side walls of the plastic in which the standard lights are held, we apply a little epoxy glue. We immediately apply the made bars to these places and hold them for about 30 seconds. It is very important that the sticks are in the same position in each headlamp.

After fixing the products, it is necessary to check the updated Volga optics again. To do this, we connect the wires from the white tapes to the dimensions, and the wiring from the colored ones to the battery terminal. If you are happy with the result, then you can collect the headlights of the car.

After improving the headlights and installing the backlight in the instrument panel, it's time to work on another problematic element of the Volga - the standard thresholds. These Gas parts are made of a metal alloy, and this material is known to be the most susceptible to corrosion. In this regard, the rapids of the Volga must be protected. For this, both plastic linings and vinyl film are used. It makes little sense to consider the first option, since the linings are very susceptible to mechanical damage, especially when a person with a large body mass steps on them. Moreover, such protection is much more expensive than the same film.

Gas 3102 with updated thresholds

Regular vinyl is more practical to use and easier to apply. You can find a wide range of products in stores in different thicknesses, but 2mm film is best for pasting thresholds. To apply, you also need to prepare warm soapy water, a hair dryer and a small roller.

The most reliable option would be to apply a film under the standard overlays on the paintwork of the Volga body. First you need to dismantle the pads and clean the space under them. After that, we take the film and apply it to the thresholds. We cut off the part of the product we need, leaving 2 cm on each side in reserve. Next, we wet the surface of the thresholds with soapy water and peel off the paper backing from the vinyl. After that, we immediately begin to glue the product. In order to fit the vinyl more tightly in the embossed places of the thresholds, you can slightly heat it with a hairdryer. Do not forget to expel air bubbles from under the film! If you don't like the way you glued the vinyl, you can gently peel it off and reapply it on the threshold.