DIY gas suspension repair 31029

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Many domestically produced cars have breakdowns more often than foreign cars. This is an axiom. With a poor-quality road surface, anything can happen in a car. If the owner of the car is not familiar with its internal equipment, then most often he has one way - to the service station. But, if there is a repair manual, and the hearing perfectly distinguishes the sounds of breakage, then there is no difficulty in repairing it with your own hands. It is possible to repair everything in the GAZ-31029 car, and even give it modernization.

Many drivers want their car doors to close quietly, easily and without clatter. That's quite possible. You can also repair old locks, and then you don't have to slam the door 10 times to close it.

This is what a door lock looks like

• This requires:

1. Remove the front lock.
2. Remove the handle from the inside of the door.
3. The spring holder must be removed from the locking rod. This is done with a screwdriver (any).
4. The lock rod must be expelled from the lock sector. The pull is required to be held with the other hand so that it does not fall into the inside of the door.
5. You can pull out the rod at the bottom through the hole.
6. 
7. Changing the door lock for GAZ-31029
8. Remove all screws from the end and side of the door that hold the lock mechanism.
9. Use a screwdriver to help the lock go out of the door and into the inside.
10. Release the lock from the outer handle pull and pull it out of the door.

Watch the video: How to repair the Volga door lock.

If it is impossible to repair the lock, you need to install a new one. Installation proceeds in sequence from bottom to top.

The main difference from other cars is the booster vacuum unit, which is interconnected with the brake cylinder. It has 2 pistons.

There are malfunctions in the Volga brake unit, you can go to the service station and there they will make diagnostics and identify all the malfunctions. After a while, you can pick up a fully repaired car. At the same time, lay out a considerable amount of money.

Brake system with vacuum booster for GAZ-31029

The second option is your garage, a car manual and some tools.

List of brake malfunctions and a short description of "what to do?":

The regulators are damaged, because of this, the gaps between the pads and the drum have increased. What to do? It is necessary to move back and forth alternately, while pressing the brake pedal 15 times. If nothing has changed, it is required according to the instruction manual. Repair the regulator. Or, as a last resort, replace defective parts.

Diagram of the brake mechanism on the GAZ-31029

Any drips have occurred. What to do? It is necessary to take the brake fluid and fill the container completely to the max mark.The second person should press the brake pedal. During these movements, it is required to carefully examine all the joints in the mechanism, as well as special tubes and hoses. In the place of the leak, you need to either tighten the connectors or replace them with new ones. Then bleed the brakes.

Diagram of the entire brake system

Parts are jammed in the vacuum device. In this case, an extraneous sound is heard, and this also affects the braking itself.

What to do? Amplifier check required.

Place the gear shift lever in the neutral position.

1. Turn the ignition lock until the engine starts running. Requires 1500 rpm.
2. Release the throttle sharply and apply the brake.
3. When raising the brake slowly, turn off the engine.
4. Monitor the brake pedal at all times.
5. The second person frees the amplifier from the hose and valve.

If the pedal has entered the floor on its own, replacement of the "amp" is required.

We advise you to see: how to replace the rear brake pads.

If the brake pedal is shaking. These are drums. They must either be pierced, or the disk must be measured. If it is worn out, it must be replaced.

With a mileage of 100 thousand kilometers, suspension repair is required. It can show its malfunction in improper driving, erasing one of the tires. But, in order to establish the exact cause of the breakdown, it is necessary to diagnose the "Volga". If it is found that this is a suspension, there are 2 options: leave the car for repair by professionals (paying a lot of money), or drive your "swallow" to the garage. The instructions will tell you what parts are required for replacement.

This is what a faulty front suspension looks like.

If you do the repair yourself, then it will take a long period of time (about a month). Because this is all a very painstaking business. Even though all the parts can be bought on the market or in the store without much difficulty. Part of the steering assembly - trapezoid, bushings, washers, bolts, gaskets, lubricants, fluids.

Appearance of the hub GAZ 31029

Since a car that has traveled such a distance of thousands of kilometers is being repaired "at home", the difficulty will be in removing the parts, because the bolts, screws and other components are pretty much brought in. Rusted or boiled. Many component parts have worn out their grease and become dry and corroded. In this case, just the keys will not work, you need power, a sledgehammer, a blowtorch, a "liquid key". And also all kinds of oils for lubricating bolts, fluids to improve turning. After long and painstaking work, which requires not only the application of force, but also great patience, the composite suspensions are removed from the Volga.

It is required to revise all the smallest details, where it is necessary to lubricate, where it is necessary to replace it with new components. The installation of a new, repaired and lubricated mechanism is reversed from removal.

It is difficult to repair a car on your own, so an assistant is definitely required. And it will be great if he is well versed in domestic cars. This is not only repair assistance, but also safety. Because the key can fly off the part, or the part itself can inadvertently fall (after all, the Volga drove a lot of kilometers.). You should also take into account the quality of the road and the winter months, when the surface is filled with ice and snow products. This is all that greatly affects metal, and the car is made of metal, not plastic.

Watch the video: How to repair the front suspension.

Initially, a ZMZ 402 engine was installed in the GAZ-31029 plant. Later, the power units were modernized and changed to better ones. Some models were equipped with diesel engines.

ZMZ 402 runs on gasoline.

A machine cannot run forever without some intervention. After passing several thousand tens of kilometers, the "heart" of the Volga begins to demand repairs from itself. This is manifested in the very operation of the mechanisms, in extraneous sounds, the car does not drive correctly.

This is what the ZMZ 402 engine looks like.

In order to make a major overhaul of a native power unit, you need a specialist "motor operator" or professionals at repair stations.

Maintenance of an internal combustion engine itself should not be carried out, even if there is a literature with a detailed description. Because the engine has such nuances that may not be described in these encyclopedias, and if they are ignored (unknowingly), the motor can be broken forever. If there is time and indomitable interest, then the "motor operator" is invited and together with him a search of the unit is carried out.

The outer threaded bush is pressed into the head of the strut, and the inner spacer is clamped between the heads of the levers, tightened by a pin with a nut. There are gaps between the ends of the threaded bushing and the ends of the upper and lower levers, which are necessary for the threaded bush to rotate along the spacer when the suspension is swinging. The gaps must be the same, the difference in dimensions is no more than 0.8 mm. The bushings are protected from dirt from entering through this gap with rubber O-rings. The threaded spacer has a fine edge cut. The same notch is found on one of the lever heads. When tightening the pin nuts, the notch splines enter each arc and the sleeve cannot be turned even with very great effort.

Twisting When the car moves in a corner or along a snake, under the action of centrifugal forces, the load is redistributed between the elastic elements of the suspensions: from the side of the outer wheels with respect to the rolling radius, the load increases, and from the inside, it decreases. As a result, the vehicle rolls or sways in the transverse plane.

Suspension malfunctions can occur unexpectedly (for example, when hitting an obstacle) or appear gradually. Some malfunctions, if they are not eliminated in a timely manner, can cause other, more serious malfunctions.

When determining suspension malfunctions, it must be borne in mind that these external signs also accompany steering malfunctions. The determination of a specific suspension malfunction is made, as a rule, during a detailed examination, testing and troubleshooting of suspension elements.

A number of the listed external signs appear when the operating characteristics of the car wheels (tire pressure, balancing, tire wear, wheel bearing wear) deviate. So, due to low tire pressure, the car is pulled to the side, vibration in motion is observed.

The responsive ventilated disc brakes on the front also provide an adequate level of active safety. It can be said without exaggeration that the Volga GAZ-3102 brings an additional element of stability to the life of its owner.

This machine is capable of serving faithfully for many years. Figure 1.1 - The layout of the GAZ 3102 car. Table 1.1 - Technical characteristics of the GAZ 3102 base model.

Number of doors 4 Number of seats 5 Length 4960 mm Width 1820 mm Height 1476 mm Wheelbase 2800 mm Front track 1510 mm Rear track 1423 mm Ground clearance 150 mm Minimum trunk volume 500 l Trunk volume maximum 1450 l Engine location front, longitudinally Drive rear Quantity gears (fur.

Kupplung der Lenkwelle Unscrewing the bolts of the lower levers pivot pivot base Characteristic crackling when unscrewing. Replacing the front shock absorbers with a GAZ 31 10 (Volga) In my video I will just tell you how I changed the front shock absorbers and who does not know how this can be done ...

Changing the lower arm bushing GAZ VOLGA 24,2410.3110 Changing the lower arm bushing on the Volga. Replacing the upper silent blocks on the front levers GAZ 31 10 I want to show newcomers who is the same as me in car repair, a complete zero, how to change the silent blocks ... Front suspension repair VOLGA Repair of the front suspension of the VOLGA car. Replacement of threaded bushings and restoration of worn levers….Repair of the VOLGA GAZ 24 suspension Search for the cause of knocks in the front suspension of the VOLGA GAZ-24 car Make money on youtube, connect an affiliate program ... Rear spring bushings, GAZ3110, replacement. Replacing the bushings of the rear springs gaz3110 (Volga) GAZ 2410 Replacing the pivot and needle bearing of the Volga suspension. Replacing the king pin and needle bearing Gas 24-10. It is necessary to dispel the myth that repair and maintenance ...

The Gorky Automobile Plant, founded in 1929, occupies a special place in the history of the domestic automotive industry. It was here that in the early 1930s, with the technical support of American specialists from the Ford Motor Company, for the first time in the USSR, a conveyor line production of cars was established. Cars and trucks of the Gorky Automobile Plant have written an important page in the history of domestic mechanical engineering. The famous GAZ-51, Pobeda (GAZ M-20), Volga (GAZ-21, GAZ-24), Chaika (GAZ-13) and others have become symbols of their era. In December 1992, the plant received the status of a joint-stock company, which in 2005 became part of the GAZ Group holding, which united 18 enterprises of domestic engineering in ten regions of Russia.

Characteristic of working conditions During the movement of the car, the clutch is subjected to the following loads: 1) Friction force When the car is moving, the dynamic force of dry friction mainly acts in the suspension, which, together with the shock absorbers, dampens the vibrations of the body and wheels of the car. The static force of dry friction acts in the suspension only in the extreme positions of the wheels when the direction of their movement is changed.

2) Shock loads When driving on uneven roads, there are constant sharp impacts of tires on unevenness and increased shock loads on suspension parts and transmission. To reduce these loads, coil springs are used, which are installed vertically on the lower suspension arms.

We jack up the car and remove the front wheel.
We install a support under the spring cup and lower the car, compressing the spring. The upper rubber bumper should move away from the stop.

Turn off the nut with the “22” head.

... and knock out the top finger of the rack with a copper hammer.

Using the “12” wrench, unscrew the bolt securing the upper bumper to the lever.

We take out the rubber sealing rings of the threaded hinges.

Turn off the nut with the “24” head.

... and remove the front upper arm from the axle.

We remove the second washer from the axis.

The steering mechanism interferes with the dismantling of the second upper arm on the left side of the car, so we remove it together with the axis of the upper levers (see. Removing the axis of the upper levers).

With a vise, through the mandrel, squeeze the spacer sleeve out of the rubber sleeve.

Then we squeeze out the rubber sleeve from the lever in the same way.

We moisten the new sleeve with gasoline or WD-40 liquid and fill its edge with a blunt flat screwdriver into the hole in the lever. Pressing down with your hand, we finally press the rubber bushing into the lever.

We also press in the spacer sleeve.

This is easier to do by inserting a slightly larger steel ball into the hole in front of the spacer sleeve.

Install the lever in reverse order.

Having owned the Volga, I have repeatedly faced the repair of the front suspension. It was on 24 Volga and on 29 and 3110. The manipulations are not too complicated, but rather laborious. Faced on the Volga GAZ-3110 once again with the replacement of pivots, I began to think.

Reflections poured into memories. I tried to remember how many times I changed the king pin, threaded bushings, sayen blocks. Of course, you can't remember everything, but the main parts that required replacement were as follows. The pivot bearings nursed me 50-100 thousand kilo-meters. Pads on drum brakes up to 40 thousand km, about the same number were nursed by threaded bushings. I started to wonder how much a pendant assembly costs in a store, it turned out to be over 30 thousand. There was no desire to invest additionally in the modernization of not a new car.

A familiar taxi driver on the Volga-31105 added fuel to the fire, who traveled 250,000 km on his own suspension and did not change anything except the pads. I have never been able to achieve such results on a pivot suspension. I came to the solution of this problem and drove to the service station with a request, if possible, to remake the suspension from pivots to balls. Their answer discouraged me. In their words, they will easily repair my own suspension, but they will not redo it due to the high cost and unsuccessful implementation of the new suspension.

No one canceled the law of chance, and when I met an old acquaintance and talked to him about my problem, I learned the opposite from him. The service is muddied, but in fact they walk very well and where have you been before. Since the price of a used ball suspension is 10 thousand rubles and he has an acquaintance when replacing the old one at such a price and sold it. But you call in a week, his acquaintance on the service Volga will change to a new one, so that I don’t forget. A week later, I called him back and heard the following answer. Come tomorrow, bring the money and take your own harness. The next day I visited him. We drove with him to the factory and the suspension is in my trunk. Having brought the suspension to my place, I did not waste time and started replacing the suspension next Saturday.

To do this, I raised the front of the car with a jack and placed bars under the thresholds. Then he removed the wheels, disconnected the brake hoses, knocked the steering pin out of the bipod, and removed the swingarm from the subframe. Then he unscrewed the stabilizer sayenblocks and the engine mudguard. Unscrewed the engine mountings from the engine paws. I installed a rhombic jack behind the beam and raised the engine a little. Then he unscrewed the bolts securing the upper arms on each side and pulled out the nuts from the plate frame. Then he unscrewed the four bolts from the bottom and removed the beam assembly. He pulled it aside and proceeded to install the beam with the balls. First, I fixed the lower bolts without tightening them, and then the horizontal bolts of the upper arms. Then he extended them thoroughly.

I put the jack under the lower arm and lifted the trunnion. I didn’t find any backlashes when I pushed the hub up and down. Then I checked the other side in a similar way, after this checking procedure I connected the brake pipes, put the stabilizer link in place and screwed on the engine mountings. Then he put the lever of the pendulum. The engine mudguard had to be fixed further, due to the fact that when removing the mudguard, many bolts and screws simply broke off and had to be drilled out and threaded by 8.

Then came the next operation to remove the bipod from the steering gear. This operation took a long time and could not be removed in any way until he resorted to a cardinal solution. With the help of the grinder, things went faster and I finally managed to remove the bipod. The bipod on a car with a power steering is different for the old and new suspension, the installation of the new bipod went smoothly and the steering rod was bolted to it. After installing the wheels, I made a test drive. I missed to mention that it took me about five hours for the rearrangement.

Suspension view from the right side of the machine

Having left in my car with a different suspension, I was glad to have more precise controllability, even a feeling of a narrower turning radius appeared. The car began to pass the pits at a higher speed, which is facilitated by a more toasted anti-roll bar. In turns, the car became more stable and, most importantly, this feeling of a trip like on a ship disappeared, the imposingness and the desire to sail along the road disappeared. I didn't converge on it, but at first I looked very carefully behind the tires. I did not reveal any increased wear of the rubber.

In the summer I went by car to the sea. Rest is a good thing and therefore the rest was delayed a little, it's time to go home. I was driving home from Dzhubga not in a hurry with breakfasts and dinners. I got home to Moscow in 18 hours. Three months later, the only fine of 100 rubles came. It turned out that the excess was near Krasnodar. One sign comes out overlooked.In terms of consumption in the middle of the day, a 55 liter tank is enough for 500 km. A liquefied gas tank at 120 km according to the speedometer is also enough for up to 500 km, but on gas it is more sensitive to work with the gas pedal. Over the entire period, I hit about 30,000 km on a ball suspension and did nothing with it. True, the root sheet of the rear right spring broke. My conclusion is that the new suspension is much better than the old one!

This is how the front suspension of the GAZ-31105 type looks like on balls

Dear, paying tribute to the work done by you, it is impossible not to note the following fact. From Dzhubga to Moscow 1500 km. You can travel this distance in 18 hours only in a fairy tale, where there are no trucks, cities, traffic lights, traffic police posts, the dim sun always shines, the road is dry and flat, there is no speed limit and there is no need to sleep, eat or go to the toilet.
In real life, if you drive at a speed of 110 km / h, which in itself is a violation, the average speed will be 70 km / h. Accordingly, the total time is 21 hours. This is provided that you do not stop to sleep.

A lot, a little for the road is not an indicator. I wrote it as it was. The younger comrades, on the contrary, say: We arrived faster.
My very first big daily mileage was on the Pobeda car on the Pavlodar-Shadrinsk 1240 km route.
On a super, under favorable circumstances, the daily mileage is 1,000 km.
Last winter, on Iveka, for three and a half days, the mileage was 2800 km, although, by the way, the load in the truck was about 6 tons.
In principle, on the road, I try never to rush and go according to road conditions.
Unfortunately, I also do not have sports methods of driving a car.

The car is equipped with an independent pivot front suspension.

Beam 2 of the front suspension (cross member No. 2) is bolted to the side members of the body and is a supporting part for attaching the vehicle's power unit and suspension elements.

The upper 29 and lower 7 wishbones provide independent movement of each of the front wheels in the vertical plane (when overcoming road obstacles).
Rubber-metal bushings are pressed into the lugs of the inner ends of the upper and lower levers, by means of which the levers are connected to the axles and are fixed on the axles with nuts. The axes of the upper levers 29 are bolted to the beam, and the axes of the lower levers 7 are threaded pins 3 screwed into the threaded bushings of the front suspension beam.

From spontaneous unscrewing, the axles of the lower levers are fixed with locking brackets 1, which are bolted to the bushings of the beam. To the upper levers are bolted to the buffer 28 of the upper levers with supports. The cups of 9 front suspension springs are screwed to the lower arms. To the lugs of the outer ends of the levers with the help of pins 24 are fixed struts 22 of the front suspension with threaded joints pressed into the heads of the struts. The design of the upper and lower threaded joints of the rack is the same.

The car is equipped with an independent pivot front suspension. Front suspension beam 2 (cross member No. 2) is bolted to the body side members and is a supporting part for attaching the vehicle's power unit and suspension elements. The upper 29 and lower 7 wishbones provide independent movement of each of the front wheels in the vertical plane (when overcoming road obstacles).

The upper ends of the springs, through rubber gaskets 33, abut against the heads of the front suspension beam, and the lower ends against the spring cups 9 mounted on the lower arms. Shock absorbers 34 front suspension - telescopic, hydraulic, double-acting. The shock absorbers are installed inside the springs. The upper parts of the rods protruding from the shock absorbers are protected from dirt by rubber caps. The upper ends of the shock absorbers through rubber pads 38 and 39 are fixed in the heads of the front suspension beam, and the lower ends are attached to the spring cups.The anti-roll bar 6 is attached to the side members through two airbags 12 with clips 13 and to the front suspension spring cups through the struts 10. The stabilizer struts 10 are attached to the ends of the stabilizer bar and to the spring cups through rubber cushions 20 and 11.

GAZ 31 project Blueberry »› Logbook ›FULL FAQ on the front suspension gas 3110 replacing from pivot to ball

so I suffered for a long time and suffered with this suspension, I don't have any sensible information anywhere and I have to suck everything out of my finger here a bit there, and so on ... so I'll start my story half a year long ...

it all started in winter when he took blueberries, immediately thought about the Volvo bridge and the front ball. well, since the bridge needs to be made and the balls are almost a bolt, it was decided in the beginning I make balls and they have more sweets ...

and so the first question was, IS IT POSSIBLE TO PUT THE BALLS ON THE BEAM FROM THE PIVOT?
(I personally did not want to remove the beam from the car and hemorrhage with the motor, etc. ...)
answer-
CAN! everything fits perfectly, but you need to do a couple of improvements ...
in total, we take everything off the ball beam (i.e. 4 levers and knuckles)
all levers fit one in one EXCEPT one revision! you have to grind the silent block from the outside! that is, when the silent is hammered into its place in the center of its place, then we stupidly take the grinder and grind it flush with the lever and from the inside

he still remains native! and everything is screwed onto the bolts from the rolled thread, nothing rips off, and so on ...
the only difference, as the people say, is that they have a different inclination of the cup from the springs ... honestly, by eye, I did not notice this and on the driving performance too.

The next thing that gnawed at me was the question of springs, since the Jeep Volga did not suit me and I got confused by this question very seriously ... but this is described in detail here A little about stiffness springs and understatement =)

THEN THERE WAS A QUESTION OF MIXING - I bought it and I have to bring it to the garage =) Volgovskaya suspension is very nice to fit into the trunk of our barge, I doubted very well, but nevertheless, at 02 Volga there the trunk is more likely to fit right in the assembly, in order to put it in 3110 you have to remove one steering knuckle (knock down 2 ball and that's it)

THE NEXT QUESTION - PUT THE BALLS WHERE THE VERSION?
ANSWER - autogas sculpted 3 types of trapezoids and 3 types of pendulums / bipods and 2 types of wheel bipods ...

hence we have the following set
1 view VOLGA WITHOUT GUR - long wheeled bipod, the shortest pendulum and steering bipod + curve (xs why but how many have not seen everywhere like this) trapezoid (photos will be further)
2 view VOLGA WITH GUROM - short wheeled bipod, middle pendulum and bipod gur and straight trapezoid
Type 3 VOLGA WITH GUROM N / O (tobish 105) - short wheeled bipod, the longest pendulum and bipod, a curved trapezoid because it can already rest against the motor =)
and now everything with a photo

Side view of the car GAZ 31105

The front suspension scheme is pivotless, located on the levers, with coiled springs, ball springs, shock absorbers and a stabilizer. At its base there is a beam made of hardened steel metal, on which all the main structural details are located. The strength of its connection with the frame gives the presence of a rod attached to the side members at one end, and the other - fastened to its center.

The design and arrangement of the front suspension on the car Volga 31105

The upper arm is made of carbon steel, secured with two bolts through the bushings. On the outer edge of this lever there is a platform in which there are special openings for fastening the ball (the connection is made using four bolts).

The structure of the lower arm is connected from two elements: front and rear, made of the same carbon steel. They are connected with a spring. The outer edges of both lever elements are held together by a single bolt. The inner edges are held using two bolts through the bushings and connected to the beam.

It looks like the front suspension of the Volga 31105

The swing arm is connected to the inner knuckle. From the outer edge, a trunnion is attached to it, on which there are lugs for connecting to the brake mechanism and the axle. The hub is driven by two bearings, in which the clearance is adjusted by rotating the hub nut.

The anti-roll bar consists of a bar and two struts. The bar is fixed in two places to the car body with metal pins softened with rubber pads.

Anti-roll bar Volga gaz 31105

The front suspension device is a complex design. If a knocking or extraneous noise appears, check and diagnose its condition to prevent unexpected breakdowns.

Causes and solutions to the problem:

• shock absorber breakage. The GAZ-31105 suspension uses a collapsible shock absorber, so you can change it or repair it;
• the development of rubber seals used in the connection of some elements, as a result of which a periodic knock will be heard in the trunk area. Replacement of worn-out rubber bands is required.

Useful advice! The price of these rubber elements is low. Therefore, it is recommended to buy the entire set of pillows and replace them completely.

• development of the hinge of the levers - replace them with new ones;
• the ball joint is worn out (the hinge of the stabilizer struts is broken). It is required to replace the struts together with the hinges;
• wear of the ball joints of the lever - replacement of the joints;
• large clearance in wheel bearings - clearance adjustment, bearing replacement;
• sagging, broken spring arch - replacement of the old spring with a new one.

The front suspension is independent, pivot, spring on double wishbones with telescopic shock absorbers.

The high rigidity of the suspension is provided by a forged steel beam on which parts of the suspension are installed. Stretching gives additional reliability to the fastening of the beam. At one end, it is screwed into the body of the beam, and at the other end, it is attached to the bracket of the cross member of the front side members.

The axle of the upper levers is attached to the upper part of the beam with two bolts. Between the axle and the beam there are 2 sets of shims for adjusting the angle of inclination of the king pin and camber of the front wheels.

The 2 top steel forged arms are interconnected by the recoil buffer support. From one end, rubber-metal hinges are pressed into the holes of the levers, from the other, holes are made for the stand pin.

The lower arms are also steel, forged, fastened with a spring cup and also have pressed-in rubber-metal hinges and holes for the lower strut pin.

The pins screwed into the beam serve as the axis of the lower arm.

The front suspension strut is steel, forged, contains lugs for pressing in threaded hinges, as well as holes for installing a pivot in the upper and lower heads. In the lower part of the rack, there is a platform for fixing a rubber buffer limiting the upward travel of the suspension.

2 tapered roller bearings are pressed into the front wheel hub. They are protected from dust and dirt from the inside by a cuff, and from the outside by a threaded cap. The gap in the wheel bearings is adjusted with a lock nut.

The hub with bearings is located on the steering knuckle journal. When the wheel turns, the king pin rotates in the needle bearings of the rack.

The axial movement of the steering knuckle along the strut is limited by a stubborn ball bearing installed at the outer bearing of the strut.

Front suspension elements

1 stub axle;

18 roller bearings of the wheel hub;

20, 21 threaded pivot hinges;

22 rubber-metal lower arm joints.

Three grease fittings are screwed into the threaded holes of the front suspension struts. The upper one is predefined for lubricating the outer threaded joint, the middle one for lubricating the outer needle bearing of the king pin, and the lower one for injecting grease to the lower needle bearing and the lower threaded joint. Frequency of lubrication every 4 thousand km. We “inject” some of the friction with transmission oil until oil appears from under the seals on both sides of the bushings.The use of other, not recommended lubricants can lead to coking of the channels and, as a result, failure of hinges and bearings.

We control the clamping of the nuts of the outer and lower pins of the rack (12.020.0 kgf m), as well as the position of the o-rings of the threaded hinges and the protective cover of the thrust bearing.

Every 20 thousand km we control the clamping of the nuts of the axles of the upper levers (7.09.0 kgf m), the cross member to the bracket with a moment (2.73.6 kgf m). We tighten the nuts of the fingers of the threaded joints (12.020.0 kgf m). In addition, with a torque of 12.514.0 kgf m, we clamp the suspension fixing bolts to the car's side members.

We monitor the condition of the rubber bushings of the upper and lower suspension arms, anti-roll bar, rubber cushions, stabilizer struts, shock absorbers and rubber protective rings of the threaded joints of the strut.

Having jacked up the car, we mount the stop under the spring cup. We lower the car by compressing the spring until the rubber buffer of the upper arms moves away from the restriction. In this position, we control the presence of backlash in the hinges and suspension bearings.

We control and, if necessary, adjust the bearings of the front wheel hubs (see. Adjusting the hub bearings).

We also sometimes control and, if necessary, adjust the angles of the front wheels.

Is it possible to replace the front suspension gaz31029 with gaz31105?

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• Location: Petrozavodsk
• Lada Priora

are the front beams on 31029 and 31105 the same?

This page is searched for by queries: Replacing the GAZ-31029 suspension with the GAZ-31105, the GAZ-31029 Volga forum, discussion of the GAZ-31029 Volga.

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• Our pets (photo) you look like a bazaar woman who can only be rude and
• Our pets (photo) gentlemen trolls, if you please remember who was the first
• Our pets (photo) yes it is you who with your masterpiece pearls dirtied all the themes on f
• Our pets (photo) But you don't need to mention my parents with your filthy tongue.

1. Remove the steering knuckle with the strut.
2. Clean the unit from dust and dirt.

3. Clamp the post 4 in a vice and drive out the locking pin with a bit 1.

Knock out plugs 2 on both sides of the king pin.

To do this, place the key on the flats A of the king pin 3 and knock out the plugs with a hammer on the key in both directions.

4. Knock out the king pin 6 and disconnect the steering knuckle 1 from the rack 2, at the same time removing the ball bearing 5 with a protective cap. Remove the two rubber protective rings 4 and press the needle bearings 3 out of the lugs of the strut.
5. Assemble in the reverse order of disassembly. When assembling, align the pin holes on the pivot and the steering knuckle lugs.

Needle bearings should be pressed in flush with the end of the groove under the plug using a brass mandrel with an outer diameter of 29.5 mm and a guide shank with a diameter of 20–0.50 and 20–0.10 mm (according to the inner diameter of the bearings).

When installing the bearings, the grease holes in the bearing housing and the strut head must match.

Before installing the pivot, it is necessary to lubricate the bearings with gear oil and select an adjusting washer so that there is a gap of no more than 0.2 mm between the lugs of the steering knuckle and the strut. The king pin plugs must be replaced with new ones.New plugs have a spherical shape, for their snug fit in the lugs of the rack, straighten them through a flat mandrel during installation.

It is recommended to install a new pin. Finger heads should be facing forward in the direction of the vehicle. It should be borne in mind that the final tightening of the threaded connections of the lever attachment is carried out only on the suspension, which is in a loaded state. The tightening torque of the pin nut is 120-200 Nm (12.0-20.0 kgcm).
6. Lubricate the bearings of the king pin with gear oil through grease fittings.
7. Adjust the wheel alignment angles. (Descent collapse of GAZ-3110)

Remove the front suspension strut assembly with a steering knuckle and a hub from the car.

1. Unscrew the grease fittings so as not to damage them during subsequent disassembly.

2. Hit hard with a hammer through a chisel or similar tool.

3.. knock out the locking pin.

4. We rest the chisel on the edges of the flat, and tapping on it with a hammer, we shift the pivot along its axis, first in one direction and then in the other direction.

5. . squeezing out the plugs to them.

6. With light blows of a hammer through the beard, knock out the kingpin

8. Remove the thrust bearing with a protective rubber ring

9. Remove the adjusting washer (washers can be of five sizes from 0.8 to 1.6 mm, pitch - 0.2 mm).

10. Use a screwdriver to pry on and remove the needle bearing sealing rubber rings from the holes.

11. Press out the needle bearings with a hammer through a mandrel of a suitable diameter.

12. Install the king pin in the reverse order, taking into account the fact that there are two holes in the needle bearing housing.

When installing the lower bearing, one of its holes should be aligned with the hole for the grease nipple, and the other with the channel for lubricating the lower threaded joint of the strut

At the upper needle bearing, we achieve alignment of one of the holes with the channel of the grease nipple.

The thrust bearing is lubricated during assembly.

During operation, the king pin wears out only on one side. To increase its service life, it has two flats for the locking pin.

If the side play of the king pin exceeds 0.3 mm, you can knock out the locking pin, turn the king pin 90 ° with a key until the second flat is aligned with the hole and reinstall the pin.

Removing the king pin or replacing the pin with a new one is not required.