DIY golf 4 suspension repair

In detail: DIY golf 4 suspension repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Today I spent a whole day repairing the suspension.

This time I did everything with my own hands.
We drove onto the lift.

Now the suspension works, nothing knocks or creaks.
Day after 2 I will do similarity collapse.

Price tag: 10,000 ₽ Mileage: 235,000 km

Volkswagen Golf 1999, petrol engine 1.4 l., 75 l. sec., front-wheel drive, manual transmission - DIY repair

I just myself have never taken up the suspension.
as far as I know that Vagovskie spare parts are the best.
here it is interesting in general the vag has a suspension, and if not, what is the most normal replacement and which company did you install

I do not know what kind of Vagovskie s / h) There are factories suppliers for conveyors (there are many of them) - you can see it on the internet. They are packed in original packaging)
The firms I have are listed. (a friend advised)
The original type is much more expensive.

How much did the purely front suspension cost?

Somewhere about 5.5 thousand turns out

The question is not entirely clear) What kind of vag? [we are not literate)]

today, too, I'm going to put the rear ditski, pads, anthers and bump stops on the amort, otherwise I also put KYB on my back, and the bump stops scattered into dust))) And now I understand that I had to change the front end, too, lose like on the waves, so that I will also put EXCEL-G. the bottom felt much tougher ...

It was the same as the waves. I don’t know about the rigidity, I haven’t experienced it yet. And even a low profile))

alexan »11 Feb 2013, 10:12

Andrey T. »11 Feb 2013, 10:24

alexan »11 Feb 2013, 10:50

Sinner84 »11 Feb 2013, 10:57

Andrey T. »11 Feb 2013, 12:08

alexan »11 Feb 2013, 13:56

Video (click to play).

alexan »14 Feb 2013, 08:59

Andrey T. »14 Feb 2013, 09:36

alexan »20 Feb 2013, 08:01

Sinner84 »20 Feb 2013, 08:52

alexan »20 Feb 2013, 09:30

Andrey T. »20 Feb 2013, 10:19

alexan Feb 20, 2013 12:43 pm

Andrey T. »20 Feb 2013, 15:17

Some models of Volkswagen cars are very tenacious, as, for example, our today's representative, truly the people's car - the fourth generation Volkswagen Golf! This car model was produced from the assembly line from 1997 to 2003. The car is at least 14 years old! And he doesn't feel bad at all! Our copy is just 2003, the mileage is at least 200 thousand, and it did not come with any major repairs or a difficult-to-solve problem. I just came to change the front shock absorbers, and a little "forge the suspension" ..

So, this list of works was on the agenda: replacing shock absorbers golf

replacement of front shock absorbers
replacement of front stabilizer bushings
replacement of silent blocks of the front levers
replacement of the gearbox support
similarity collapse

Shock absorbers are quite an important element of the suspension, despite the fact that many do not attach due importance to this. Quite often there are old cars that still have factory shock absorbers installed. Naturally, they lose their characteristics over time. And by the way, it is the most important element of active vehicle safety. From how the car clings to the road, "holds" it - sometimes your life depends, and not only yours. at home in the yard. For those who do not know, the technique is simple: it is enough to swing the car several times at a point close to the shock absorber, make several rolls with a developing amplitude, and then suddenly release and watch - how many times the car will cross "Resting point". Should be no more than 2 times. golf shock absorbers replacement

Suppose you rock the front left side of the car, after another sharp press - release and look - the car body should rise up, then go down by inertia, crossing the rest point a little, after which it will level up again a little and that's it. At this, the swinging should be stopped. In common people - this is called one and a half pitching)) Thus, you can approximately, "by eye" assess the performance of the shock absorbers.If there are no more movements than described above, then everything is more or less nothing. But, of course, it is better to use a special test stand, if in doubt, and you feel that your car is somehow not holding the road well, because the method described above is rather primitive, and can only reveal very serious deviations from the norm. And be careful not to damage the car body by pushing on it! golf shock absorbers replacement

Regarding the rest of the repair, this is more of the category of "comfort", of course, it is unpleasant to drive with extraneous sounds in the suspension, which are given by broken silent blocks. Increased rubber wear may also occur, which is also costly. Therefore, we change the silent, and put everything in order. golf shock absorbers replacement

Installed new shock absorbers

In order to replace the front shock absorbers - it is necessary: replacement of shock absorbers golf

Remove the front wheels
Disconnect the brake pad wear sensor connectors and remove the brackets
Unscrew the upper hex nut securing the stabilizer bar
Extend the bracket on the brake hose holder and hang out the hose
Disconnect the wheel speed sensor wires from the shock absorber
Remove the brake caliper fixing screws.
Suspend the brake caliper by securing it to the body
Disconnect the stabilizer link from the suspension arm
Disconnect the speed sensor wire from the shock absorber
To remove the right shock absorber strut, additional operations are required - Remove the noise-insulating casing, Unscrew the drive shaft from the gearbox flange shaft, Further work procedure is the same for both sides of the vehicle
Unscrew the threaded fastening of the steering knuckle to the shock absorber strut
Insert the spacer into the cut of the steering knuckle, turn it with a ratchet 90 ° and remove the key
Press the brake disc in the direction of the shock absorber by hand
Pull the steering knuckle down and remove it from the shock absorber.
Unscrew the hex nut of the upper shock absorber mounting
Remove shock absorber replacement shock absorbers golf

We press in new silent blocks

Next, we proceed to the wishbones: replacing shock absorbers golf

Remove the wheels, Remove the noise insulation
To remove the left suspension arm, unscrew the ride height sensor rod from the bracket on the arm
Unscrew the gearbox support screws.
Remove the screws securing the lever to the ball joint
Disconnect the wishbone from the ball joint
Press the power unit forward with a pry bar
Unscrew the screws securing the control arm to the subframe and remove the suspension arm
Press out old silent blocks on a hydraulic press and press in new ones

golf shock absorbers replacement

The assembly is carried out in the reverse order, taking into account the requirements of the manufacturer. Along the way, we change the gearbox support to a new one, and change the stabilizer bushings. Everything is simple there. Next, we perform similarity collapse. This completes the work, the car is ready.

Below you can see other photos of the repair process: replacing shock absorbers golf

Front suspension elements

The suspension is the link between the body and the wheels. Through them, the forces acting on the wheels are transmitted to the body. The elements included in the suspension soften dynamic loads, reduce body vibrations, provide good stability and smooth running of the car.

In the front suspension, coil springs and a shock absorber are designed as a compact shock strut. The top of the strut mounts to the body and the bottom mounts to the steering knuckle. The lower part of the steering knuckle is attached to the three-arm lower arm of the front suspension. The lower front suspension arms are connected to the beam. The beam is connected to the body through rubber-metal supports.

The torque from the gearbox to the wheels is transmitted using drive shafts with constant velocity joints. Warning

It is strictly forbidden to carry out welding and straightening work on the elements of the front suspension.Be sure to replace self-locking nuts and bolts with signs of corrosion.

on these cars from the factory there could be two types of silent blocks: with a metal (1J0501541D) or with a plastic sleeve (1J0501541C). In the first case, to replace the beam, you will have to completely remove the beam from the machine, in the second, you can replace it right on the spot.

It is quite easy to understand what is on your car: a silent block with a solid-cast metal clip

while the silent block with a plastic sleeve has slots

-Lower the beam down to remove the silent blocks from the brackets, the brake lines interfere with us. But it is not necessary to depressurize them. You can make a collapsible version, like the Golf III. To do this, take out two clips

-pull the hose together with the tube towards the motor

- now you can remove the tube from the bracket

-pull the tubes out of the clips on the beam, for more freedom

-release the parking brake cable from the clips

-Now you can unscrew and pull out the front bolts of the beam

-under the center of the beam we put an emphasis,

-we pick out the edges from the brackets, and lower the beam.

-Now you can take on the silent block itself. It is quite easy to remove it using a small chisel. You need to drive it between the beam and the clip

- several round trips

-and further the silent block easily leaves its nest

-before pressing in a new one, it is imperative to clean the surfaces

-I do it with a drill bit

-the new silent block is pressed in a strictly defined position. The rubber molding should look exactly at the junction of the landing ring and the beam itself

-that would "not lose orientation in space", I make marker marks

-the time of home-made adaptations has passed, now you can buy a tool for any operation. The set for pressing the rear silent blocks costs quite reasonable money

- we apply the silent block to the beam, according to the marks, we assemble the mandrels, and - go ahead!

-the shoulder should rest against the beam itself

- we repeat the same procedures on the second side, assemble in the reverse order, but take into account one important nuance: it is possible to tighten the beam fastening bolts only when the beam is in a loaded state. That is, in the same position as when the car is standing on wheels

-To recreate this position, ELSA recommends using a tape measure to calculate the distance between the center of the hub and the arch. I put a stop under the rear extreme point of the beam, and lower the body until the load from the hoist paw is transferred to the spring. In this position, and tighten.

Violation of this paragraph significantly reduces the service life of the silent blocks. And also their resource directly depends on the performance of the shock absorbers

Today you will learn how to replace the silent blocks of the front levers of the Volkswagen Golf 4. In principle, the front suspension of the Volkswagen Golf 4 is fundamentally no different from the Golf series cars of previous years. In this video, the instruction will be useful to you if you decide to change the silent blocks on earlier models: Golf, Passat B3 and B4.

As always, when pressing in silent blocks, you will need mandrels of different sizes, which ones I describe in the video. It is certainly more convenient to press in silent blocks on the press, but you can get by with a vice.

And here is the video itself. Also, do not forget and visit our YouTube channel, there you will find a lot of useful videos on the repair of all brands of cars.

We got together somehow with a sidekick, or rather yesterday, we started to change the rack on his golf from the right. First, as usual, the scope of work was determined, we looked at how it is attached, and what is needed to remove it.

It turned out to be not so simple, to unscrew the upper fastening nut (the rack is not attached there like on all normal machines with three nuts, but one, through a cup) and to unscrew this one nut you need a cunning super-key, called a special tool, in the form of a head with a handle welded on the side and a hole on top, where a 7-point hexagon is inserted, to fix the rack stem.Well, in general, we bought an instrument and went to change it.

It all started pretty well, hung up the wheels and began to slowly disassemble. We started from the bottom, there another crap was waiting for us, the stand is attached with one bolt, but this is normal, the most important thing is that it does not enter the fist from the side, as usual, but from above, into the hole in the form of a clamp, which is pulled together by one bolt and fixed with the ear on the rack. In short, the rack had to be knocked out with a hammer, they beat on the very clamp into which the rack was inserted, everything went pretty well until the drive lay on the frame, thereby preventing the turn signal from moving down, this hammering knock turned out to be useless, the rack stopped moving as we did not try ...

And now the time has come to read a magic book on repairing this car, it turned out that to remove the right pillar, it is necessary to unhook the drive, and from the checkpoint, which of course we did not do, so as not to earn even more crap. After several minutes of reflection, a bright thought came to remove the rack with a jack, while less than 1 cm remained before it came out. they slipped a jack under the rack and began to extract it through the spacer, everything turned out as well as possible, it was just wonderful. This was followed by throwing balls from one rack to another and installing it in place.

First, they inserted and fixed the top a little, then they began to insert the bottom. It was quite problematic, the rack did not want to be inserted into the hole, it cracked and rested, but all the same it got into the hole. Now the question arose of how to press it into place and a trace was taken. solution: put a couple of bakulyk under the lever and began to lower the jack, gradually tapping with a hammer on the collar of the rack attachment. After a while, the stand was put into place. And note, we did not unscrew the drive, as it is written in the literature, and changed everything very well.

Such a hemorrhoid turned out to be the people's car of the Germans, but we made them with the help of a folk instrument: a hammer and a jack

If anyone has a question, why didn't they contact the service, the answer is simple, find out how much it costs.

Front suspension elements

The suspension is the link between the body and the wheels. Through them, the forces acting on the wheels are transmitted to the body. Suspension elements soften dynamic loads, reduce body vibrations, provide good stability and smooth running of the car.

The torque from the gearbox to the wheels is transmitted using drive shafts with constant velocity joints. Warning

It is strictly forbidden to carry out welding and straightening work on the elements of the front suspension. Be sure to replace self-locking nuts and bolts with signs of corrosion.

Replacing the silent blocks of the front levers of the Volkswagen Golf 4
Our website
- removing the front arm
- pressing out the old front lever silent block
- pressing out the old rear arm silentblock
- we press in a new front silent block
-We press in the new rear arm silentblock
To replace the silent blocks on the front lever, you must remove the entire lever itself. To replace the silent blocks, you will need at least a vice, of course it is better to press on the press. You will also need several mandrels. For all the intricacies of replacing silent blocks, see the video.

great video helped a lot thanks

why the ball joint is so removed it will be necessary to do camber

release the mandrels from the bearing in the stove otherwise they shoot like bullets from the load

great video helped me a lot Thank you

Tell me please.How long did it take to change 1 silent block?

Owners of high-mileage cars sometimes complain of metallic grinding and noises in the front suspension, especially when driving over bumps in the road. Therefore, in the article we will touch on the topic of removing and replacing front shock absorbers and springs on a Volkswagen Golf 4 with our own hands.

You will need: new front shock absorbers and springs, spring brace, set of keys, assembly, lift, vice.

Loosen the front hub nut.

Remove the wheel by unscrewing the bolts.

We unscrew the bolts and remove the brake caliper assembly with the disc.

Press the drive into the front hub by force.

We press out the steering tip.

We unscrew the lower bolts from the lever.

Then you will need to remove the wires from the rack.

After that, remove the front hub drive completely

We hold the stock with one key, with the second we unscrew the hub bolt.

Next, we take out the front pillar with a fist.

We lift the caliper on the lift.

Clamping the front pillar in a vice, we disassemble it. We tighten the spring, unscrew the stem nut. We change it to a new spring and shock absorber, assemble the rack back.

We lubricate the rack in the fist.

We knock the rack out of the fist.

We polish the junction.

Apply grease after polishing.

With a perfect match of the holes, tighten the bolt. We assemble the suspension in the reverse order. We repeat with the second wheel. We change strictly in pairs. After completing all the work, make the alignment disorder.

Volkswagen Golf 4 suspension repair is routine and most often sudden. Repair of the Volkswagen Golf 4 suspension is done only after a complete diagnosis of the suspension. At the diagnostic stage, all components of the suspension and brake system are checked. After inspection, a work order is drawn up, which indicates the cost of work and spare parts. Suspension repair works are divided into critical (urgent) and non-critical.

Volkswagen Golf 4 suspension repair is done within a day. If, after repairing the suspension, it will be necessary to do wheel alignment, then it can be done in all our car services. For repairs, our stations are equipped with two and four post hoists, with a maximum carrying capacity of 5 tons.

Service station on Grazhdanka - 603-55-05, from 10 to 20, no days off.
Service station in Kupchino - 245-33-15, from 10 to 20, no days off.
STO on Courage, 748-30-20, from 10 to 20, no days off.

WhatAapp / Viber: 8-911-766-42-33

* subject to repair at our service station.

We have all spare parts for suspension repairs in stock.

When to repair your suspension:
- according to the result of the suspension diagnosis;
- knock on the suspension;
- the car is driving on the road;
- hum when driving;
- after an accident.

Warranty for work - 6 months no mileage limitation

For all motorists, auto mechanics, locksmiths and those who are simply interested, we have prepared this article. Auto repair site> made for you and we will try to help you repair your car.

Now we will describe the replacement and removal of the headlight in the Volkswagen Golf 4. If you have broken it or you need to replace it, then our video tip should help. What subtleties can arise during its repair?

If you are thinking of repairing the headlight in a VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 4 car with your own hands, then you need to do the following:

To replace the headlight in the Volkswagen Golf 4, you need a screwdriver and a hexagon.
First of all, you need to remove the front grill and unscrew the three screws on the bumper.
After that, remove the bumper and unscrew four more bolts that secure the headlight.
That's it, you can remove the GOLF 4 headlight.

For a complete understanding of the sequence of repair and replacement, watch our video instruction to independently replace a headlight in a VW Golf 4.

How to replace the drive with your own hands (remove and install the CV joint) on a VW Golf 4 (Volkswagen Golf 4). The video is in English, with their explanatory comments, it's a pity that there is no translation, but I think you can appreciate the entire scope of work on the video series. Pay attention to the garage, perfect cleanliness and order, there is no dirt and even dust we are familiar with under the Golf wheel arch.Many of our auto masters need to strive for such an order.

To replace the drive, you can do with a standard set of tools, with ratchet extensions, a special pistol with nozzles is used in the video, which undoubtedly makes the task easier, but I think not many can boast of its presence.

Video of replacing the drive, removing and installing the CV joint on the VW Golf 4 (Volkswagen Golf 4):

As for the gearbox, I advise you to take golf of the years, there the boxes are already cured of childhood diseases, namely the rivets that pierced it.

Cool car, I'm happy

Please note that the video is uploaded per year, therefore the prices are different.

Almost all lies. Except for rivets and power windows. And then, from the beginning of the year, reinforced rivets went. The rear wiper on this car has already been changed, it stands from the right-hand drive. Great auto no matter what. You cannot compare with modern soap dishes.

Volkswagen? Fuck at all? Read the original name of the car brand, no big deal

It clings to everything because the machine is made for normal countries! And not for our roads. I ride golf gti! The car is a legend!

I have a super golf car, but you can't argue with the height, everything in a row clings.

You will need: new front shock absorbers and springs, spring brace, set of keys, assembly, lift, vice.

Loosen the front hub nut.

Remove the wheel by unscrewing the bolts.

We unscrew the bolts and remove the brake caliper assembly with the disc.

Press the drive into the front hub by force.

We press out the steering tip.

We unscrew the lower bolts from the lever.

Then you will need to remove the wires from the rack.

After that, remove the front hub drive completely

We hold the stock with one key, with the second we unscrew the hub bolt.

Next, we take out the front pillar with a fist.

We lift the caliper on the lift.

Clamping the front pillar in a vice, we disassemble it. We tighten the spring, unscrew the stem nut. We change it to a new spring and shock absorber, assemble the rack back.

We lubricate the rack in the fist.

We knock the rack out of the fist.

We polish the junction.

Apply grease after polishing.

This problem with tapping the steering wheel when turning in place and in motion on small bumps and pits is quite common, so here I am posting a report on replacing the lower bearing, which is probably the cause of knocking in a third of the cases.

For work we need:

Actually the bearing itself numbered 1H0 419 517 original $ 3.7
New copper nut N 022 146 4
13 spanner spanner (or head and spanner)
Box key 11
Head 24 to unscrew the steering wheel nut
Phillips and flat screwdrivers
Two hours time
Extra light (carry)

So, first we remove the plastic parts that block our access to the steering shaft.
1. Carefully pry on and remove the false cover covering the bottom panel bolts

2. Unscrew the 4re bolts securing the plastic panel, remove the panel.

3. Unscrew the two bolts securing the cover of the steering column switches, then carefully use a flat screwdriver to disconnect the cover into two halves and remove.

4. Remove the horn cover from the steering wheel, disconnect the terminals, unscrew the steering wheel nut with a 24 head, remove the steering wheel. In principle, here it was possible not to remove the steering column switches and the steering wheel and then remove the entire assembly, but for diagnostics it was interesting for me to make sure the condition of the upper bearing.

5. We remove all the pads, all of them have an emphasis on one end for pressing, from the other you need to pry off with a screwdriver, but there are no problems.To remove the steering column switches themselves, unscrew the three bolts and disconnect from the ignition lock case

6. Further, to remove from the shaft sleeve with the ignition lock, you must unscrew this bolt that is in the photo. My bolt did not have any notches, that is, a convex smooth head, the problem of 5 minutes of working with a file was solved and the bolt had a normal technological hole for a screwdriver. By the way, due to poor tightening in this place, the steering shaft moved 1-2 mm up and down, which also gave an order of knocking.

7. Then we throw the carrier onto the mat and climb there. We remove the rubber casing of the cardan protection - two plastic bolts and the casing in the hands. Now comes the fun part.
We unscrew the nut of the bolt that holds the cardan on the shaft itself (number 1), I warn you that it was screwed on very seriously, be patient and choose a comfortable position. After that, we unscrew the bolt itself (number 2) from the cardan. After that, the cardan was removed from the shaft with my fingers, no screwdrivers were required to unclench, be careful not to lose the spring between the cardan and the bearing.
To remove the cardan itself, you need to unscrew the bolt number 3 in the photo with a key 11. By the way, my knock was also due to the lack of twisting of the bolt on this joint.

8. Remove the steering shaft. we put it aside for now, then we take out the bearing, I was able to pry it off with a screwdriver and gradually pull it out. Someone with a head on a 27 or more long tube knocked it out from above. We inspect the bearing, I had a backlash compared to the new one, though not that big.
In the photo you can see the bottom of the bearing

In principle, it can be changed by removing only the cardan, although when pressing it back there is a chance to drive the steering shaft into each other.

9. The steering shaft itself with the housing of the ignition switch, the check showed that there is almost no backlash in this place, that is, the upper bearing is alive and that is a holiday. When removing, make sure the bottom and top of the shaft are firmly in each other and the locking mark is in place. According to reviews, some, when the articulation point was loose, pressed it in a vice, I will not say anything about it

11. View of the steering shaft cover

12. Assembly is carried out upside-down. Those. I first pressed in the bearing, gently tapping on its housing. Further installation of the shaft itself, just do not carefully knock out the bearing with the shaft. We lubricate the cardan and put it on the drive shaft, put the spring between the bearing and the cardan on the steering shaft, follow the sequence, otherwise, after installing it on the steering shaft, do not put the cardan on the drive shaft.

13. When installing the cardan on the steering shaft, align the shaft and cardan so that the groove for the bolt on the shaft coincides with the bolt in the cardan. We tighten the cardan bolt, then we tighten a new copper nut (30nm force). Insert and tighten the nut between the drive shaft and the cardan shaft. After pulling all the bolts at the bottom with our hands, we check the whole thing for knocks, all the incomprehensible sounds at the bottom have disappeared completely

14. I tightened the steering column bolt with another, the original was not possible to tighten tightly. You just need to take into account his hat so that it is not very large, otherwise insert the chip into the steering column switch.

15. at the same time lubricated the upper steering shaft bearing. Otherwise, there are no pitfalls. With straight arms, all work does not cause any difficulties.

As a result, the knock on small irregularities completely disappeared and when the steering wheel was rotated by 5-7 degrees while standing still. The steering wheel play also seems to have become smaller, although I'm not really sure about that.

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Yesterday I started hitting the floor at a speed of 80 and above. The first thought is the gimbal. I was right - rear outboard bearing - into the firebox.
I took off the cardan today. I ordered a suspended one (90 euro assembly, original). While I drive on the front end - the first impression after 2x syncros is uncomfortable and impractical. Even on the asphalt it slips, on the second cada I give gas to the polic as usual - it slips, then it goes. I want to get the rear back as soon as possible.

Maybe someone will come in handy.
So, as I removed the gimbal, it may be written illiterately, I'm not a mechanic.
Working environment.
1. Unscrew part of the muffler near the pants (13 ″)
2. Unscrew the muffler connection in the middle (17 ″)
3. Remove the catalyst mount (13 ″)
4. We release the bolts securing the parts of the universal joint, but do not unscrew (asterisk 8)!
5. Unscrew the two bolts securing the front of the cardan to the box (15 ″)
6. Raise one of the apron wheels to the jack. we scroll the jack, unscrew the 3rd bolt of point 5 and unscrew all the bolts of point 4
7. Unscrew the attachments mounted to the body
8. Remove the front of the gimbal (dexterity is needed!)
9. Unscrew the back of the cardan from the clutch in the same way as in point 5.
10. Remove the back of the cardan
11. That's it!
We load the cardan from two parts into the car, and we leave on the front wheel drive.

The cardan is waiting for a new attachment and its replacement. Hopefully in 3-4 weeks I will be on all 4 wheels again

When replacing (a second time) the anti-roll bar bushings, I decided to investigate the causes of the unpleasant squeak.
The bushings are visually intact, wear is expressed only in the loosening of the inner fabric gasket and a bright polished shine on the stabilizer itself. To eliminate the squeak, it is not worth changing the bushings. It is enough to wrap a piece of fluoroplastic film on the stabilizer, to the place where the sleeve is installed.
Proezdil month about 3000 km He took off the stabilizer bushings.
The film is like new - no signs of wear. Put new bushings.
As a result, I do not observe any changes, it was possible to ride with the old ones. The old ones drove 25 because

But now I go and do not get overjoyed, nothing creaks, no knocks. Beauty….
Huh, I knocked for 2 days ...

My Golf 4 doesn't come with a bad roads package. The smoothness of overcoming small bumps pleased much less than the frequent blows against the humped asphalt with the engine protection spoiled the mood. After a run of 70,000, the front springs sagged, the car began to “nod off” on bumps, and the issue of increasing the ground clearance became acute.
The "officials" offered a set of parts for the package "bad roads" for only 1000 Euros, but cars with such a set are very tough, they did not want to lose comfort.
The kit includes struts where the spring seat is welded to the body about 20mm higher, new springs and bushings # 1J0 412 311A (key 28), according to picture

As a result of such modernization, the front part of the car was significantly raised, and most importantly, the car stopped “nodding” on bumps. The front suspension stiffness has increased slightly, and the roll when cornering has decreased.

Blue-black stains show traces of “metal cementing” (local heating of the metal several mm deep) - therefore, such CV joints should be more durable than those made of “raw” steel. Although much depends on the quality of work and on the operating modes of the car.

As for the gearbox, I advise you to take golf of the years, there the boxes are already cured of childhood diseases, namely the rivets that pierced it.

Cool car, I'm happy

Please note that the video is uploaded per year, therefore the prices are different.

Volkswagen? Fuck at all? Read the original name of the car brand, no big deal

It clings to everything because the machine is made for normal countries! And not for our roads. I ride golf gti! The car is a legend!

I have a super golf car, but you can't argue with the height, everything in a row clings.

How to replace the drive with your own hands (remove and install the CV joint) on a VW Golf 4 (Volkswagen Golf 4). The video is in English, with their explanatory comments, it's a pity that there is no translation, but I think you can appreciate the entire scope of work on the video series. Pay attention to the garage, perfect cleanliness and order, there is no dirt and even dust we are familiar with under the Golf wheel arch. Many of our auto masters need to strive for such an order.

Video (click to play).

Video of replacing the drive, removing and installing the CV joint on the VW Golf 4 (Volkswagen Golf 4):

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