DIY Lanos suspension repair

Front suspension: 1 - lever cushion; 2 - lever; 3 - ball bearing; 4 - a steering knuckle with a hub; 5 - shock absorber rack; 6 - anti-roll bar; 7 - bar of the anti-roll bar; 8 - cushion of the stabilizer bar; 9 - bracket for attaching the stabilizer bar to the bulkhead; 10 - silent block of the lever

Independent front suspension, MacPherson type with wishbones and anti-roll bar mounted on the bulkhead.
The basis of the suspension is a telescopic shock-absorber strut, which allows the wheels to move up and down when driving over irregularities and at the same time dampen body vibrations.

Details of the shock absorber: 1 - nut for fastening the shock absorber rod; 2 - washer; 3 - nut of the rack body; 4 - shock absorber housing with a steering knuckle; 5 - spring; 6 - shock absorber; 7 - compression stroke buffer; 8 - cover; 9 - upper support cup; 10 - flat washer; 11 - disc washer; 12 - upper support

The rack is made as a single unit with a steering knuckle.
A spring support cup and a pivot arm are welded to the middle part of the strut body, which is connected to the steering rod through a ball end.
A helical coil spring with an upper coil of reduced diameter, a rubber buffer for the compression stroke, as well as an upper support assembly with a bearing are installed on the telescopic rack.
A telescopic hydraulic shock absorber is installed in the rack housing.
The top support is secured to the body splash guard cup with three self-locking nuts.
Due to its elasticity, the support allows the rack to swing during suspension travel and dampens high-frequency suspension vibrations.
A bearing pressed into it allows the rack to rotate with the steered wheel.
The braking and traction forces during the movement of the car are perceived by the suspension arms, connected through ball joints with steering knuckles and - through silent blocks and pillows - with the body.

Front suspension elements on the car, bottom view: 1 - ball joint; 2 - steering fist; 3 - stabilizer rack; 4 - shock absorber rack; 5 - bar of the anti-roll bar; 6 - lever; 7 - bracket for fastening the cushion of the lever

The lower part of the steering knuckle is connected to the front suspension arm via a ball joint.

Front suspension arm: 1 - pillow; 2 - lever; 3 - ball bearing; 4 - silent block

The pin of the ball joint is attached to the steering knuckle with a nut, and the support body is riveted to the lever with three rivets.
To replace the ball joint, you will need to drill three rivets and replace them with bolts and nuts.
A closed-type double-row angular contact ball bearing is pressed into the bore of the steering knuckle, and the wheel hub is pressed into the inner rings of the bearing.
The inner rings are tightened (through the hub) with a nut on the threaded part of the shank of the outer hinge of the wheel drive housing.
In operation, the bearing is not adjustable and does not require relubrication.
Wheel hub bearings are interchangeable.
The nuts of the bearings of the hubs of both wheels are the same, with a right-hand thread.
The anti-roll bar is made of spring steel.

Anti-roll bar: 1 - left side; 2 - right side

The bar in its middle part is attached to the bulkhead through rubber cushions.
Both ends of the stabilizer bar are connected to the suspension arms through struts with rubber bushings.
The stabilizer bar is asymmetrical.

To ensure good stability and control of the car, the front wheels are installed at certain angles relative to the body and suspension elements.

B – A - toe-in of the front wheels; A and B - the distance (mm) between the flanges of the rims of the wheels in front and behind; δs is the toe angle of the front wheels; S - track

Only the toe-in angle is adjusted.
The rest of the parameters (camber angle, caster angle of the pivot axis) are structurally made by the manufacturer and cannot be adjusted.
Toe-in is the angle between the plane of rotation of the wheel and the longitudinal axis of the vehicle.
Toe-in contributes to the correct position of the steered wheels at different speeds and angles of rotation of the vehicle.
Signs of a deviation of the wheel toe angle from the norm: severe sawtooth tire wear in the lateral direction, squealing of tires in corners, increased fuel consumption due to high rolling resistance of the front wheels.
The convergence is adjusted by turning the adjusting screw when the terminal connections of the steering rod ends are loose.

T - the angle of the longitudinal inclination of the axis of rotation of the wheel

Caster angle - the angle between the vertical and the line passing through the centers of rotation of the ball joint and the bearing of the upper support of the shock absorber strut in a plane parallel to the longitudinal axis of the vehicle.
It helps to stabilize the steered wheels in the direction of straight-line movement.
Symptoms of the deviation of the angle from the norm are the car drifting to the side when driving, different efforts on the steering wheel in the left and right turns, one-sided wear of the tire tread.

Y- camber angle

Camber is the angle between the plane of rotation of the wheel and the vertical.
It promotes the correct position of the rolling wheel during suspension operation.
With a strong deviation of this angle from the norm, the car may drift away from the straight-line movement and one-sided wear of the tread.
The camber angle and the angle of the longitudinal inclination of the axis of rotation of the wheel are given structurally by the geometry of the suspension parts and cannot be adjusted in operation.
It is recommended to check the front wheel alignment angles and toe-in at a service station.
Before adjustment, the wheels must be set to the straight-ahead position of the vehicle.
The vehicle must be placed on a horizontal platform and loaded in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations.

At normal tire pressure and in the absence of excessive play in the front suspension units, the installation angles should correspond to the following values:
- toe-in: 10 ’± 10 ′
- camber angle: –1 ° 10 ’± 20 ′

Caster angle of rotation axis:
- with power steering 2 ° 45 '± 1 °
- without power steering 1 ° 30 '± 1 °

The front suspension of the Chevrolet Lanos is fully independent, such as MacPherson strut. It consists of springs and levers. The shock absorbers are telescopic here, and the springs are coiled and cylindrical. Below is a diagram of the front suspension of a Chevrolet Lanos, so that you can clearly see what and how it works.

Chevrolet Lanos front suspension diagram

Deciphering the scheme of the anterior podvestik

The telescopic strut is the backbone of the entire suspension. One simultaneously performs two functions:

1. Damping element.
2. Guide element.

The rack is connected to the lower levers, as well as a ball joint. The whole thing is attached to the body with rubber bushings, supports and silent blocks.

The stabilizer shown in the diagram above is attached to the body with special brackets. This part is also equipped with rubber bushings.

Front hub bearing

The hubs in the front suspension are mounted on special bearings, the diagram of which you can see above.

Well, the front suspension of the Chevrolet Lanos diagram, the name of the parts we gave you, this is all the information about the front suspension, with a detailed description.You will not find anywhere else like this! As for maintainability, the front suspension parts of the Chevrolet Lanos are inexpensive, and replacing them, using the instructions on our website, will not be difficult! Good luck with the renovation work!

Dear Lanosovody and Nexiaveda, do not pass by! I invite you to read and evaluate my photo report on the removal and replacement of the front suspension arm of Daewoo Lanos (Daewoo Lanos), Daewoo Nexia (Daewoo Nexia), Chevrolet Lanos (Chevrolet Lanos), Daewoo Sens (Daewoo Sens)... I hope this material will be of interest to you. Since it describes not only himself lever replacement process, but also gives advice on the selection of quality spare parts. And nowadays this is very important, since buying a low quality lever entails quite big problems. But first things first.

I'll start with the spare parts. There is something to talk about.

Spare parts. The left and right levers are different from each other. Keep this in mind when buying. Catalog number left arm front suspension Daewoo Lanos, Daewoo Nexia, Chevrolet Lanos, Daewoo Sens cars - 96218397... Catalog number right arm - 96445372.

In general, the situation with the levers is catastrophic! And from my side to give recommendations on manufacturers is a rather risky and unfavorable business. I would advise you to buy the lever (s) CTR or MANDO. And will one of the stories I described above happen to him (s)? And then what? That is why there will be no recommendations for firms. I hope you understand me.

I have just a few tips to help you find quality leverage.:

1) When buying, be sure to ask the seller quality certificate for the lever.
2) If you have a choice, great. Ask to show everything. And try the levers for weight... The heavier the lever, the better. From my observation, the weight of a normal lever should be 4 kg or so. We take the steelyard with us and in the store we begin to weigh the lever. I think that the effect produced on the sellers by your actions will be strong))). And this is good, they will know that they are a serious car enthusiast, who better not to sniff up various rubbish!
3) Examining the welds... It is the seams, and not the welding points over and over again. The lever must be well welded. We pay special attention to the bushing of the front silent block. The sleeve must be welded to the lever with a continuous seam (photo 1).

Here's what I can safely advise is the purchase front arm mounting bolt! Why is that? I explain: quite often the bolt sticks in the bushing of the silent block and it is very difficult to knock it out in such a situation. This is the first reason to buy a bolt. The second - the nut of the bolt is tightened with a rather powerful force (140 Nm) and if the work with the lever has been carried out more than once, then the thread of the bolt and nuts have already gone through more than one tightening. Plus, added to that is corrosion and rust. And as a result - the thread is not in an arc and the necessary tightening will not work. And this is not order !? Do you agree? I hope I convinced you of the need to buy a bolt. So I continue: catalog number of the front suspension arm bolt - 94500882 (a nut and two washers should be included with the bolt, see photo 2).

Tool: For removing and replacing the front suspension arms of Daewoo Lanos (Daewoo Lanos), Daewoo Nexia (Daewoo Nexia), Chevrolet Lanos (Chevrolet Lanos), Daewoo Sens (Daewoo Sens) You will need such an arsenal of tools: a jack, a wheel wrench, a pry bar, a hammer, a puller for a ball joint, a ring and socket wrenches for 13, 14 (it will be very good if you have an extended head for 13 at your disposal), an open-end wrench for 19, socket and box wrenches for 22.

The work on removing and replacing the lever should be carried out on a lift or inspection pit.

Photo report on the removal and replacement of the front suspension arm on the Daewoo Nexia car. On cars Daewoo Lanos, Chevrolet Lanos and Daewoo Sense, the replacement of the lever is carried out in the same way:

We drive the car into a hole. We put “shoes” under the rear wheels. We release the wheel bolts.We raise the car with a jack. We remove the wheel. And we install “insurance” under the car body (you can use a removed wheel for this role).

And we get down to business. First of all, you can tackle the stabilizer strut. Unscrew the rack nut (photo 3). You can find more information on stabilizer struts in this article.

After we have dealt with the rack, go to ball joint... We unscrew (key 19) the fastening nut of the ball joint pin (photo 4). And using a puller, we press out the finger from the steering knuckle eyelet (photos 5 and 6).

Next, we take on the bracket bolts (brackets) rear arm silentblock (photo 7).

And the final touch - unscrew the lever bolt nut (photo 8). If everything is ok with the bolt (it has not rusted in the bushing of the silent block), then you can figure it out quite quickly: we put a spanner on the nut, and the bolt itself is twisted with a ratchet with a 22-head ratchet. turn only the nut with a wrench. Which, of course, is not critical, but it takes more time.

Everything! It remains only to pull out the bolt and remove the lever (photo 9). Or remove the lever together with the bolt, due to the fact that the bolt has rusted in the bushing of the silent block. Plus, to this, there are times when the bolt stubbornly does not want to leave the body lug. Then you have to take a guide and knock out the stubborn one (photos 10 and 11).

Now that's for sure everything - front suspension arm lifted car (Photo 12, as you can see, it was not possible to pull out the bolt from the lever, as it was “firmly attached”, so the purchase of the bolt was justified by all 110%). All that remains is to install a new lever. The notorious bolt must be lubricated - lithol, nigrol, graphite grease, copper paste. Optionally, as they say, the main thing is to lubricate the bolt. Carry out the subsequent assembly in the reverse order and work on replacing the front suspension arm of Daewoo Lanos (Daewoo Lanos), Daewoo Nexia (Daewoo Nexia), Chevrolet Lanos (Chevrolet Lanos), Daewoo Sens (Daewoo Sens) is completed.

Let me remind you that the silent blocks of the lever are fully tightened in the "car on wheels" position. That is, the bolts of the bracket (bracket) of the rear silent block and the bolt of the front silent block are only slightly tightened when the lever is installed. We tighten them only after putting the wheel on and lowering the car from the jack.

Independent front suspension, MacPherson type with wishbones and anti-roll bar mounted on the bulkhead.

The basis of the suspension is a telescopic shock-absorber strut, which allows the wheels to move up and down when driving over irregularities and at the same time dampen body vibrations.

The rack is made as a single unit with a steering knuckle.

A spring support cup and a pivot arm are welded to the middle part of the strut body, which is connected to the steering rod through a ball end.

A helical coil spring with an upper coil of reduced diameter, a rubber buffer for the compression stroke, as well as an upper support assembly with a bearing are installed on the telescopic rack.

A telescopic hydraulic shock absorber is installed in the rack housing.

The top support is secured to the body splash guard cup with three self-locking nuts.

Due to its elasticity, the support allows the rack to swing during suspension travel and dampens high-frequency suspension vibrations.

A bearing pressed into it allows the rack to rotate with the steered wheel.

The braking and traction forces during the movement of the car are perceived by the suspension arms, connected through ball joints with steering knuckles and - through silent blocks and pillows - with the body.

The lower part of the steering knuckle is connected to the front suspension arm via a ball joint.

The pin of the ball joint is attached to the steering knuckle with a nut, and the support body is riveted to the lever with three rivets.

To replace the ball joint, you will need to drill three rivets and replace them with bolts and nuts.

A closed-type double-row angular contact ball bearing is pressed into the bore of the steering knuckle, and the wheel hub is pressed into the inner rings of the bearing.

The inner rings are tightened (through the hub) with a nut on the threaded part of the shank of the outer hinge of the wheel drive housing.

In operation, the bearing is not adjustable and does not require relubrication.

Wheel hub bearings are interchangeable.

The nuts of the bearings of the hubs of both wheels are the same, with a right-hand thread.

The anti-roll bar is made of spring steel.

The bar in its middle part is attached to the bulkhead through rubber cushions.

Both ends of the stabilizer bar are connected to the suspension arms through struts with rubber bushings.

The stabilizer bar is asymmetrical.

To ensure good stability and control of the car, the front wheels are installed at certain angles relative to the body and suspension elements.

Only the toe-in angle is adjusted.

The rest of the parameters (camber angle, caster angle of the pivot axis) are structurally made by the manufacturer and cannot be adjusted.

Toe-in is the angle between the plane of rotation of the wheel and the longitudinal axis of the vehicle.

Toe-in contributes to the correct position of the steered wheels at different speeds and angles of rotation of the vehicle.

Signs of a deviation of the wheel toe angle from the norm: severe sawtooth tire wear in the lateral direction, squealing of tires in corners, increased fuel consumption due to high rolling resistance of the front wheels.

The convergence is adjusted by turning the adjusting screw when the terminal connections of the steering rod ends are loose.

Caster angle - the angle between the vertical and the line passing through the centers of rotation of the ball joint and the bearing of the upper support of the shock absorber strut in a plane parallel to the longitudinal axis of the vehicle.

It helps to stabilize the steered wheels in the direction of straight-line movement.

Symptoms of the deviation of the angle from the norm are the car drifting to the side when driving, different efforts on the steering wheel in the left and right turns, one-sided wear of the tire tread.

Camber is the angle between the plane of rotation of the wheel and the vertical.

It promotes the correct position of the rolling wheel during suspension operation.

With a strong deviation of this angle from the norm, the car may drift away from the straight-line movement and one-sided wear of the tread.

The camber angle and the angle of the longitudinal inclination of the axis of rotation of the wheel are given structurally by the geometry of the suspension parts and cannot be adjusted in operation.

It is recommended to check the front wheel alignment angles and toe-in at a service station.

Before adjustment, the wheels must be set to the straight-ahead position of the vehicle.

The vehicle must be placed on a horizontal platform and loaded in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations.

At normal tire pressure and in the absence of excessive play in the front suspension units, the installation angles should correspond to the following values:

• - toe-in: 10 ’± 10 ′
• - camber angle: –1 ° 10 ’± 20 ′

Caster angle of rotation axis:

• - with power steering 2 ° 45 '± 1 °
• - without power steering 1 ° 30 '± 1 °

Chevrolet Lanos. Front suspension

Front suspension: 1 - lever cushion; 2 - lever; 3 - ball bearing; 4 - a steering knuckle with a hub; 5 - shock absorber rack; 6 - anti-roll bar; 7 - bar of the anti-roll bar; 8 - cushion of the stabilizer bar; 9 - bracket for attaching the stabilizer bar to the bulkhead; 10 - silent block of the lever

Details of the shock absorber: 1 - nut for fastening the shock absorber rod; 2 - washer; 3 - nut of the rack body; 4 - shock absorber housing with a steering knuckle; 5 - spring; 6 - shock absorber; 7 - compression stroke buffer; 8 - cover; 9 - upper support cup; 10 - flat washer; 11 — dish washer; 12 - upper support

Front suspension elements on the car: 1 - ball joint; 2 - steering fist; 3 - stabilizer rack; 4 - shock absorber rack; 5 - bar of the anti-roll bar; 6 - lever; 7 - bracket for fastening the cushion of the lever

The suspension is a set of devices that provide elastic connection of the wheels to the body. In the case of an independent car suspension, the wheels located on its one axis are capable of moving vertically
in the local direction independently of each other and have no direct connection with each other - the movement of one wheel does not cause the movement of the other. Designed to ensure smooth running of the vehicle and increase its stability and controllability.
2 Anti-roll bar Designed to increase lateral stability and reduce body roll angles by twisting the middle part of the boom when moving its ends connected to the suspension arms in different directions.
3 Shock absorber

Serves as a telescopic guide and carrier for the front suspension. In addition, the strut also acts as a shock absorber. The shock absorber serves to damp vibrations, absorb shocks and shock
moat acting on the car through its wheels. Prevents the wheels from coming off the road, providing constant traction and preventing body swaying, which consequently affects the safety and comfort of the vehicle.

Independent front suspension 1 (p. 155), MacPherson type with wishbones and anti-roll bar-► 2 (p. 155), fixed on the bulkhead. Suspension base - telescopic shock absorber -> ■ 3 (p. 155),

which allows the wheels to move up and down when driving over irregularities and at the same time dampen body vibrations. The rack is made as a single unit with a steering knuckle. A spring support cup and a pivot arm are welded to the middle part of the strut body, which is connected to the steering rod through a ball end. A helical coil spring with an upper coil of reduced diameter, a rubber buffer for the compression stroke, as well as an upper support assembly with a bearing are installed on the telescopic rack. A telescopic hydraulic shock absorber is installed in the rack housing.

The upper support is attached to the body mudguard cup with three self-locking nuts. Due to its elasticity, the support allows the rack to swing during suspension travel and dampens high-frequency suspension vibrations. A bearing pressed into it allows the rack to rotate with the steered wheel. The braking and traction forces during the movement of the car are perceived by the suspension arms, connected through ball joints with steering knuckles and - through silent blocks and pillows - with the body.

The lower part of the steering knuckle is connected to the front suspension arm via a ball joint. The pin of the ball joint is attached to the steering knuckle with a nut, and the support body is riveted to the lever with three rivets.

To replace the ball joint, you will need to drill three rivets and replace them with bolts and nuts.

A closed-type double-row angular contact ball bearing is pressed into the bore of the steering knuckle, and the wheel hub is pressed into the inner rings of the bearing.

The inner rings are tightened (through the hub) with a nut on the threaded part of the shank of the outer hinge of the wheel drive housing.

In operation, the bearing is not adjustable and does not require relubrication.

Wheel hub bearings are interchangeable. The nuts of the bearings of the hubs of both wheels are the same, with a right-hand thread. The anti-roll bar is made of spring steel.The bar in its middle part is attached to the bulkhead through rubber cushions. Both ends of the stabilizer bar are connected to the suspension arms through struts with rubber bushings. The stabilizer bar is asymmetrical.

To ensure good stability and control of the car, the front wheels are installed at certain angles relative to the body and suspension elements. Only the toe-in angle is adjusted. The rest of the parameters (camber angle, caster angle of the pivot axis) are structurally made by the manufacturer and cannot be adjusted.

Toe-in is the angle between the plane of rotation of the wheel and the longitudinal axis of the vehicle. Toe-in contributes to the correct position of the steered wheels when

different speeds and angles of rotation of the vehicle. Signs of a deviation of the wheel toe angle from the norm: severe sawtooth tire wear in the transverse direction, squealing tires in corners, increased fuel consumption due to high

rolling resistance of the front wheels. The convergence is adjusted by turning the adjusting screw when the terminal connections of the steering rod ends are loose.

Caster angle - the angle between the vertical and the line passing through the centers of rotation of the ball joint and the bearing of the upper support of the shock absorber strut in a plane parallel to the longitudinal axis of the vehicle. It helps to stabilize the steered wheels in the direction of straight-line movement. Symptoms of the deviation of the angle from the norm are the car drifting to the side when driving, different efforts on the steering wheel in the left and right turns, one-sided wear of the tire tread.

Camber is the angle between the plane of rotation of the wheel and the vertical.

It contributes to the correct position of the rolling wheel during suspension operation. With a strong deviation of this angle from the norm, the car may drift away from the straight-line movement and one-sided wear of the tread.

The camber angle and the angle of the longitudinal inclination of the axis of rotation of the wheel are given structurally by the geometry of the suspension parts and cannot be adjusted in operation. It is recommended to check the front wheel alignment angles and toe-in at a service station. Before adjustment, the wheels must be set to the straight-ahead position of the vehicle. The vehicle must be placed on a horizontal platform and loaded in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. At normal tire pressure and in the absence of excessive play in the front suspension units, the installation angles should correspond to the following values:

the angle of the longitudinal tilt of the axis of rotation:

- with power steering 2 ° 45 '+ 1 °

- without power steering 1 ° 30 '+ 1 °

It is quite obvious that any unit of the Daewoo chassis must be in good condition. This is especially true for the suspension, since, unlike the engine, which can fail and Daewoo Lanos (Sens) simply will not go further, the breakdown of some suspension elements while driving can lead to a serious accident.

1. In addition to obvious safety, chassis Daewoo Lanos (Sens) is responsible for a comfortable ride and good handling. The most dangerous thing is that in this case there will be a high probability of loss of control, with the next collision with an obstacle that has arisen on the road. Only regular diagnostics of the Daewoo Lanos (Sens) chassis will allow you to avoid such a situation.

Diagnostics of the chassis Daewoo Lanos (Sens) includes checking the elements:

• springs and shock absorbers;
• levers and supports (bearings from above, silent blocks from below);
• stabilizer bushings Daewoo Lanos (Sens);
• steering rods and rack;
• wheel bearings;
• CV JOINT.

2. For owners of Daewoo Lanos (Sens) with experience, it is not difficult to determine the malfunction in the suspension. Experience will tell them what the problem is by the sound and its source. Plus, the most common suspension faults sound pretty much the same in all cars.

Diagnostics of the chassis Daewoo Lanos (Sens) should be carried out regularly, even without showing any hints of a malfunction. It is better to do this on a lift, but it can also be done on an ordinary flyover or observation pit.

3. It is important to remember how the Daewoo Lanos (Sens) behaves in good condition, then any malfunction in the future will be obvious. To understand that something is wrong with a car, you do not need to be an experienced driver, and even more so, an auto mechanic.

Most often, the following signs of malfunctions of the Daewoo Lanos (Sens) chassis occur:

• the sudden appearance of noise, knocking, bouncing of the Daewoo Lanos (Sens) chassis, which can both disappear and remain even on a completely flat road;
• too large rolls when cornering and noticeable swaying of the body when passing bumps or when braking;
• arbitrary steering to the side, Daewoo Lanos (Sens) leads away when driving straight;
• uneven tire wear.

4. Most often you can hear exactly the knock of the Daewoo Lanos suspension (Sens), it indicates that the rubber elements are worn out or the fasteners that hold them are loose. There are a lot of rubber elements in the chassis, by and large, almost any Daewoo Lanos (Sens) suspension unit can knock, as a result, in order to accurately identify the cause of the knock, the car must be inspected from below.

If you hear a crunch, especially when cornering or with a sharp acceleration of Daewoo Lanos (Sens), then we can say with almost complete certainty that the reason lies in a malfunction of the SHRUS Daewoo Lanos (Sens), the so-called grenade. A squeak most often occurs after replacing the stabilizer bushings, often this indicates a poor-quality bushing.

5. If Daewoo Lanos (Sens) began to drift aside, more often it happens after the hard passage of pits and potholes, then you may have to do similarity collapse (camber-convergence Daewoo Lanos (Sens)). At best, this will eliminate the trouble, at worst, upon impact, something could bend, starting from the steering rod and ending with the steering knuckle.

If at least one of these signs occurs, it is necessary to diagnose the Daewoo Lanos (Sens) chassis as soon as possible. Even in the rules, operation with a faulty suspension is expressly prohibited, not to mention the fact that it is simply dangerous.

6. A Daewoo Lanos (Sens) suspension silent block not replaced in time, which is not so expensive, can lead to a lever breakage, with a price tag of one hundred dollars. Many drivers drive without paying attention to the sounds that appear in the chassis of Daewoo Lanos (Sens), and drive until the sound becomes completely critical, or until something simply falls off, this approach is simply absurd.

7. Periodic visual inspection of the Daewoo Lanos (Sens) chassis will help save money, after all, if you find a cracked boot or cover in time and make a prompt replacement, then the element that was protected by the boot will last longer. If, when examining the Daewoo Lanos (Sens), an already torn boot was found, then you can be sure that soon this suspension element will need to be replaced.

After checking all the anthers, you should start diagnosing the front suspension elements of Daewoo Lanos (Sens). The front suspension is more complex than the rear, it is subject to heavy loads, as a result, it breaks much more often. First, we inspect Daewoo Lanos (Sens) shock absorbers; they should not have dents or oil leaks. You can also try to swing the shock absorber to the sides, the swing amplitude should be insignificant.

But the easiest way to check the serviceability of this suspension element is to swing the Daewoo Lanos (Sens) by pressing the corner where the shock absorber being diagnosed is located. If, after pressing, Daewoo Lanos (Sens), having returned to its original state, continued swinging up and down, then this indicates a shock absorber malfunction.

8. Next, the springs of the chassis Daewoo Lanos (Sens) are examined, often their turns break off, so you need to inspect them for cracks and the integrity of all turns.But here you can also determine the functionality of the springs without looking under the car. To do this, you just need to pay attention to the clearance of Daewoo Lanos (Sens), if the car has become noticeably lower, then this already indicates a malfunction of the springs, they sagged and can no longer perform their function properly.

9. Ball and silent blocks are checked only from the bottom side of Daewoo Lanos (Sens). To diagnose them, it is better to use some kind of metal lever to make it easier to check everything for backlash, they should not be in a working car. The stabilizer and thrust bearings of Daewoo Lanos (Sens) are checked in the same way. To check the wheel bearing, you need to shake the wheel, if there is a play, this indicates a poor condition of the bearing.

The breakdown is rather unpleasant, but it doesn't get any easier from realizing it. I didn't want to go to some advanced “Uncle Vasya” and decided to change the front pillars of Lanos with my own hands. Perhaps my detailed photo report on the independent replacement of the front shock absorbers will be useful to someone. Looking ahead, I will say that the whole procedure will take you about two to three hours.

1. Keys: cap on “19”, butt on: “9”, “12”, open on: “17”, 12.
2. You may need WD-40 fluid. Why is it possible, because it is not known in what state you have threaded connections.
3. Ties for spring compression.
4. Tie rod puller.
5. Adjustable wrench.
6. Jack.

Note: To enlarge the image click on it!

1. Everything starts as always, you need to jack up and remove the wheel, for whom this is a problem, read this article.

2. Then lift the hood and remove the support bearing plug.

3. Loosen the nut with the union on “19” (it is not necessary to unscrew completely), with the other hand, using the socket on “9”, hold the stem of the rack.

4. Unscrew the steering tip nut with a “17” wrench, then press it out using the steering tip puller.

5. Now using the springs to compress the springs, compress the springs.

6. Remove the two caliper mounting bolts. Hang up the caliper with clamps or wires, it should not hang from the brake hose.

7. Next, you need to unscrew the rod of the stabilizer, for this we have a head on “12”, we hold it from below, and unscrew the rod from above with a horn on “12”. After unscrewing, move the rubber bands of the stabilizer to the side.

8. Now you can completely unscrew the strut rod nut in the support bearing, then lower the strut together with the spring down so that the strut rod comes out of the support bearing.

9. Remove the plastic cup with rubber bumper located at the top of the spring. Now it's time to remove the spring itself. In order to get the spring, you will have to suffer a little, there is very little space for this, so turn it this way and that, it should come out.

10. Take the two adjustable jacks and unscrew the nut from the stand cartridge.

11. Remove the support bearing, for this you need to unscrew the three mounting bolts. Remove the "support".

12. Use the hole in the support bearing retaining cup to remove the cartridge.

On the other hand, the repair process is similar, so there is no point in describing it. Assembling in reverse order. If you liked the article Replacing the front struts Chevrolet Lanos support it and share with your friends on social networks.

Daewoo Lanos. Front suspension repair.