DIY suspension repair in the field

In detail: do-it-yourself suspension repair in the field from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

For normal operation of the car, you need to timely diagnose and repair the Chevrolet Niva chassis with your own hands or in a service. To save money, it is better to do it yourself according to the instructions that we have prepared for you in this material.

The front suspension of the domestic SUV has an independent design. On each side are two wishbones, coil coil springs, telescopic shock absorbers and anti-roll bars.

To check the technical condition of the suspension elements of the car, it is necessary to raise it on a lift or put it over the pit and go down. In this case, it is important to suspend the front wheels. The rubber elements should show no signs of aging or mechanical damage. The rubber-metal hinges should also be free of cracks, signs of aging, unilateral rubber bulging or separation from the reinforcement. All damaged parts must be replaced.

Be sure to check the condition of the protective covers for the ball joints and bearings. If they are damaged, the entire joint assembly will have to be replaced.

Take a good look at the rubber pads of the upper joints and check the condition of the rubber bushings of the lower joints. Do not forget to inspect the rubber arm bushings - lower and upper. Diagnose the anti-roll bar rubber bushings and the quality of the attachment of the stabilizer brackets to the arms and side members.

If the clearance in the front wheel hub bearings is increased, at certain speeds you will feel vibration on the steering wheel. As a result, tires will wear out unevenly (stains are formed), and the bearing life will be reduced. The complete absence of a gap, which causes a tight rotation of the hub, can also reduce their resource. The clearance in the wheel bearings of the front wheels of the Chevrolet Niva should not exceed 0.15 mm. To adjust the front bearings, use a wheel wrench, a wrench 27 and a hammer.

Video (click to play).

Try to swing the suspended wheel vertically. If you feel a backlash, you will have to adjust the gap. Also ask the assistant to apply the brake and hold the pedal while you swing the wheel vertically again. If the play is gone, there is definitely a play in the bearings.

Remove the trim cover and unscrew the hub lock nut. Keeping it from turning with the knob, unscrew the nut. In the process of adjusting the hub when repairing the Niva chassis, it is recommended to install new hub nuts, since the old nuts may even after adjustment take the old position, and you will not lock it with sufficient reliability. In extreme cases, you can take a used nut from another car.

Screw on and tighten the hub nut to a torque of 19.6 Nm, turning the hub 90 degrees in both directions 2-3 times. This will allow the bearings to self-align. Loosen the adjustment nut and retighten it to 6.8 Nm, and then back it off 25 degrees.

Place the nut collar in the two grooves on the drive outer pivot pivot, thus locking the hub nut. Install the removed parts in reverse order.

After adjusting the clearance in the Chevrolet Niva bearings, check that the wheel turns easily. The final check of the adjustment should be assessed by the degree of heating of the hubs after overcoming one kilometer without braking.

When repairing the Chevrolet Niva suspension, you should change the lubricant in the bearings at the intervals indicated in the service manual. If there is little or dirty grease, the bearings will wear out quickly.To work, you will need a pair of 13 keys, a key for wheel bolts, a torque wrench, a hammer, a screwdriver, Litol-24 and a container for flushing the elements.

First you need to remove the wheel with brake pads. The caliper is dismantled without disconnecting the hydraulic hoses. Just take it to the stronu and hang it on the wire so as not to strain the hose. Pull the rubber holder out of the bracket with the hose.

Change the grease in the bearings at the intervals specified in the service book. If the lubricant is insufficient or contaminated, the bearings will quickly fail. To replace, you will need keys "13" (two), a torque wrench, a wrench for wheel nuts, pliers, a screwdriver, a hammer, clean grease Litol-24, a container for washing parts. Remove the wheel and brake pads.

Next, you need to split the pin nut of the outer hinge of the side link and unscrew it. Install a puller and press out the steering pivot pin that is held in the pivot arm boss. Remove three nuts each of the bolts that hold the ball joint and support to the arms and remove the hub nut. Pull out the bolts and dismantle the steering knuckle with hinges assembly. Press the hub out of the bearing rings using a suitable bushing.

Use a screwdriver to remove the oil seal from the hub, but note that it will have to be replaced after that. Pull out the spacer and inner bearing rings, and then rinse all elements with kerosene and fill the inner cavity with grease. Also apply Litol to the inner and outer bearing races.

Insert the inner and spacer rings into the steering knuckle, and then press the oil seal into the steering knuckle socket. Reinstall everything in the reverse order and adjust the wheel bearing clearance according to the above instructions.

Replacing the Niva Chevrolet wheel bearing on the front wheel is a rather difficult job, but we will tell you how to carry it out further. The need for this may arise when noise occurs when the wheel rotates, as well as the impossibility of achieving the desired clearance by means of adjustments.

To dismantle and install the front hub bearings, you will need a wheel wrench, a screwdriver, a hammer, a 13 and 17 wrench, a barb, a torque wrench, a mandrel for pressing in an oil seal, Litol-24, kerosene and a container for flushing the elements.

Dismantle the steering knuckle and pull out the hub, spacer ring, oil seal and inner rings with a bearing, and then rinse everything thoroughly with kerosene. Inspect the treadmills on the inner and outer rings of the bearings and check the condition of the running surfaces of the rollers.

Noticeable wear of separators, rings, rollers, all kinds of chips and cavities - all this is unacceptable. If all these flaws are found during the repair of the Chevrolet Niva suspension, the bearings must be replaced.

Using a barb and hammer, start pounding lightly around the perimeter of the outer ring and press the ring out of your fist. Then, with weak blows with a hammer along the perimeter of the ring through a drift made of soft metal, you need to press the outer ring of the new outer bearing until it stops against the shoulder of the socket in the steering knuckle. Fill the inner cavity with grease and apply it to the outer rings of the bearings.

Install all dismantled elements in the steering knuckle. It is necessary to install the steering knuckle when repairing the Niva suspension in the reverse order to disassembly. Then adjust the wheel bearing clearance.

Repairing the front suspension of a Chevrolet Niva sometimes involves replacing the hinge. To dismantle and install it, you need keys for 13 and 22, a wheel wrench for removing wheels, a support in the form of a jack, a mounting blade, a metal brush and a hammer.

First, you need to remove the wheel and support the lower arm, and then lower the car. This will load the suspension and the position of the levers will match their position under load.Clean the dirt from the ball joint, remove the brake hose retainer from the bracket

Loosen the pivot pin nut and unscrew it completely. When turning the finger due to wear or loose fit of the cone, the lever should be pressed down with a pry bar, resting on the last coil of the spring.

Remove the brake hose bracket and install the ball joint puller, then press the pin out of the steering knuckle boss.

Remove the three nuts that secure the pivot to the arm and detach the pivot from it. Installation of the upper ball is carried out in the reverse order of disassembly.

If, when diagnosing the chassis of the Chevrolet Niva with your own hands, you determined the need to replace the ball joint, you will need a small set of tools:

keys for 13, 22 and 27;
wheel nut wrench;
metal brush;
mount;
jack;
hammer.

Dismantle the wheel and support the lower arm, thereby loading the suspension and aligning the position of the arms. Remove the hub cap and unscrew the nut. It is always very tight, so use a head with a secure knob.

Unscrew the nut that is wrapped around the ball joint pin, and then press the pin out of the steering knuckle boss. Unscrew the nuts of the bolts that hold the lever on the support, and remove the bolts by moving the steering knuckle. Remove the wheel hub from the outer drive pivot shank splines. Dismantle the ball joint, and then install in the reverse order of assembly.

It is not so difficult to change shock absorbers on a Chevrolet Niva with your own hands. This has to be done in the event of a leak; deterioration in vibration damping when driving over bumps. Worn out shock absorbers are always replaced in pairs or all four at once. To remove and install the shock absorber, you need keys 17 and 6.

Using a 17 key, secure the shock absorber rod from turning, and with the same one unscrew the nut and remove the thrust washer with a rubber pad. Unscrew the bolt nut on the lower hinge and pull out the bolt, after which the shock absorber can be removed. Remove the lower cushion from the shock absorber rod and inspect the condition of the rubber cushions and shock absorber.

Dismantle the lower hinge, and, if necessary, replace the pad and bush of the lower hinge. Install Chevrolet Niva shock absorbers when repairing the suspension in the reverse order. Before installation, the stem must be pulled out full stroke. When working on a lift, you need to lower the car before assembling the upper mount so that the suspension is loaded under the weight of the car.

Replacing the Chevrolet Niva springs may be required in case of mechanical damage or strong sitting. Signs of precipitation include:

violation of the smoothness of the course;
suspension breakdowns on irregularities;
noticeable skew of the front of the car;
the difference in the height of the front and rear parts of the car;
traces of collision of the coils of the spring.

To dismantle and install the front springs, you need two keys for 13, two for 17 and one for 24, as well as a jack and a wrench for unscrewing the wheel nuts. First remove the wheel and loosen the lower arm axle nut with a wrench.

Unscrew the nut of the bolt that secures the shock absorber from below and pull out the bolt. Next, unscrew two more nuts of the stabilizer cushion bracket and dismantle the bracket. Jack up the front suspension to release the compression stop. Next, unscrew the three nuts of the bolts securing the ball joint and pull out the bolts.

Slowly lowering the lever, it is necessary to release the spring and remove it. Next, remove the lower and upper spring gaskets. If necessary, remove the compression travel stop. Install the springs when repairing the Chevrolet Niva suspension in the reverse order.

It is necessary to remove the lower arm when repairing the Niva chassis if there is mechanical damage on it or in order to replace the silent blocks. To work you will need:

two keys for 13;
two keys for 17;
key for 22;
two keys for 24;
jack;
hammer with a barb.

First you need to dismantle the spring and unscrew the lower arm axle nut. Knock out the axle with a beard, paying attention to the location of the shims. Pull out the axle, but hold the lever. If necessary, you will have to unscrew the nuts that hold the spring support cup.

Before installation, the axle and bushings must be lubricated in the front suspension cross member using grease. Next, the removed lower arm is installed in place in the reverse order.

If, when diagnosing the front suspension of the Chevrolet Niva, you find mechanical damage or decide to replace the worn out silent blocks, you will have to remove the upper arm. To work you need two keys for 13, one for 22, a jack and a wheel wrench. Jack up the car and remove the wheel, and then support the lower arm and load the suspension by lowering the car.

Unscrew the three nuts that hold the ball joint to the upper arm. Then unscrew a pair of upper arm axle bolts. When turning the bolts, they must be held in place with a wrench.

Remove the upper arm, paying attention to the number and location of the adjusting washers that are located on the axle bolts. Installation of the upper arm in the silent blocks is carried out in the reverse order.

Replacing the Chevrolet Niva silent blocks in the lower arm is required if they are worn out or damaged. To do this, use a 22 key and a special puller. First you need to remove the lower arm along with all the silent blocks.

Using a special puller, press out the silent blocks from the lugs of the lever and press in new ones. After that, install the lever in place and go to the workshop to adjust the camber-toe.

Upper arm bushing

In the upper lever, the silent blocks are changed for the same reasons as in the lower one. To work, you need a 22 key and a puller. First dismantle the upper arm with all bushings and the machine axle. Unscrew the upper arm nuts and remove the washers and nuts from the axle.

With the help of a puller, you need to press out the silent blocks from the eyes, and press new ones here. Then put everything back together and adjust the camber. You cannot do this on your own, since you probably do not have special equipment.

When repairing the front suspension of a Chevrolet Niva, sometimes it is necessary to change the stabilizer. It must be removed from the bar using keys 13 and 17. With their help, unscrew the four nuts of the brackets securing the stabilizer to the front axle gearbox and dismantle the brackets.

Remove the Chevrolet Niva stabilizer and inspect the condition of the part. There should be no signs of rubber aging, damage, wear on the inner surfaces that come into contact with the stabilizer on the pillows. Replace damaged pillows. The stabilizer is installed in the reverse order.

We hang out and remove the front wheel.

Disconnect the upper ball joint from the lever (see Removing the upper ball joint).

1. Using the "19" head, unscrew the nuts of the two bolts securing the lever to the cross member bracket.

2. We hold the bolts against turning with a wrench of the same dimension (the generator has been removed for clarity).

3. Remove the lever assembly with the axle.

4. Washers are installed on the bolts between the axle and the cross member bracket to adjust the caster and camber angles of the front wheels.

5. Clamping the lever axis in a vice, turn off the two axle nuts with a 22 key.

7. To press out the silent blocks, we install a puller on the lever so that its cup rests on the end face of the lever eyelet, and the puller bolt with an internal thread is screwed onto the axle.

8. Tightening the nut of the puller bolt (while keeping the bolt from turning), ...

9. . We press out the silent block from the lever.

Having removed the silent block from the axle, install it in the eyes of the lever and press out the second silent block with a puller.

10. In the absence of a puller, prying the outer sleeve of the silent block with a chisel.

12. To install new silent blocks with a cup puller, press one silent block into the lever eyelet.

thirteen.Before pressing in the second silent block, clamp the lever in a vice, insert the axle with thrust washers into the lugs of the lever and screw the nut onto the axle from the side of the pressed-in silent block.

We insert the second silent block into the hole of the eyelet.

Insert a mandrel made from a suitable piece of pipe (160 mm long, 42 mm inner diameter, 32 mm wide slot) into the spacer between the lugs of the lever.

14. We rest the cup of the stripper against the end of the outer sleeve of the silent block.

15. Screwing the puller bolt onto the lever axis, press in the silent block

16. In the absence of a puller, we rest the end face of the lever eyelet on the vise jaws.

We press in the silent block with a tool head of a suitable size (a piece of pipe).

Install the lever in reverse order

The nuts for fastening the silent blocks on the axle are finally tightened in the "car on wheels" position

1 - brake disc;
2 - wheel hub;
3 - hairpin;
4 - lower ball joint;
5 - cap;
6 - housing of the outer hinge of the drive;
7 - adjusting nut;
8 - tapered bushing;
9 - hub bearings;
10 - oil seals;
11 - dirt reflecting ring;
12 - rubber cushion of the stabilizer bar;
13 - clip for attaching the stabilizer bar;
14 - rotary fist;
15 - body;
16 - stretching;
17 - a protective cover for the ball pin;
18 - upper ball joint;
19 - cushions for fastening the shock absorber rod;
20 - upper arm;

21 - cross member;
22 - adjusting washers;
23 - the axis of the upper lever;
24 - rubber-metal hinge (silent block) of the upper arm;
25 - rebound stroke buffer;
26 - bracket for rebound buffer;
27 - upper support spring cup;
28 - upper insulating spring gasket;
29 - spring;
30 - bolt for fastening the brace to the cross member;
31 - washers of the lower arm;
32 - axis of the lower arm;
33 - rubber-metal hinge of the lower arm;
34 - lower arm;
35 - bottom insulating spring gasket;
36 - lower support spring cup;
37 - compression stroke buffer;
38 - shock absorber;
39 - bracket for attaching the stabilizer bar to the body;
40 - stabilizer bar.

The front suspension is independent, on forked transverse steel levers, with helical coil springs, double-acting telescopic hydraulic shock absorbers and an anti-roll bar.

Undercarriage specifications

The upper and lower levers have a similar design: at the ends of the "fork" there are cylindrical lugs for rubber-metal hinges (silent blocks), and on the opposite side there is a platform with three holes for fastening the ball joint. On the front branch of the upper arm there is a bump against which the rebound buffer rests at the maximum suspension travel, and on the lower arm there are four holes for attaching the lower support spring cup. The ball joints of the upper and lower arms are interchangeable and unified with the upper ball joints of the rear-wheel drive VAZ suspension. The support is attached to the arm together with the boot and pressure plate by three bolts with lock washers and nuts. The threaded ends of the pins of both the upper and lower bearings point downward and fit into the taper holes of the steering knuckle. The pins are secured with self-locking nuts. Thus, the steering knuckle can rotate about an axis passing through the centers of the pins of the ball joints.

Some malfunctions of the front suspension

The axle of the lower arm is a bolt that passes through the bushing in the suspension cross member and the rubber-metal arm pivots. Just like the upper ones, the lower hinges are pulled between two washers, but another thrust washer (thick) is added between the inner washer and the bushing, adjacent to the bushing, and several shims (thin). The thickness of the washer pack is selected at the factory; when dismantling the suspension, it is necessary to remember their number and location.It is permissible to change the number and location of washers only when it is necessary to restore the suspension geometry (for example, after an accident, replacing the cross member, etc.). In this case, the distance between the outer washer and the flange of the rubber-metal hinge sleeve after tightening its nut should be within 3–7.5 mm. In the event that it is impossible to adjust the caster angle of the pivot axis (see below) with intact suspension parts, you can transfer some of the washers from one end of the lever to the other.

The suspension cross member is a curved steel tubular girder to which steel forged brackets are welded on both sides. In the lower part of the bracket there is a bushing for the axle of the lower arm, and the upper part is made as a vertical platform with four pairs of holes for fastening bolts. An upper pair of bolts secures the upper arm axle to the cross member. The second one from the top - pulls together the engine support bracket, cross member, spar and rebound buffer bracket. A third pair of bolts tightens the engine mount bracket, cross member, and upper suspension spring mount. And, finally, the fourth - the cross member and the upper support of the suspension spring. For reliability, the fastening nuts of the upper support of the suspension springs, after tightening, are welded to the protruding threaded part of the bolts.

Two brackets with holes are also welded to the lower rear part of the cross member. Stretch braces (steel rods) are bolted to them, increasing the longitudinal rigidity of the structure. The rear (threaded) ends of the guy wires are attached to the bracket on the car body with two nuts and washers. When installing the brace, the inner nut is tightened until the washer touches the bracket, and the outer nut is tightened with the recommended torque.

The suspension spring is supported by the lower insulating pad and the upper support cup. A rubber gasket is installed between the upper support cup and the upper spring seat. The upper support is pulled together by four bolts with a suspension cross member, two bolts - with a body side member (welded into the side member) and one more - with a rebound buffer bracket (the latter is welded into the support itself). The upper spring seat is also welded to the compression buffer support leg (facing downwards). The compression buffer at maximum suspension travel rests against the lower arm, the rebound buffer against the bump on the upper arm. The lower spring seat is attached to the lower arm with four bolts, nuts and lock washers. Brackets for attaching the lower end of the shock absorber and anti-roll bar (behind the spring) are also welded to the lower cup. Since a rubber-metal hinge is pressed into the shock absorber eyelet, it is possible to tighten the bolt of its lower fastening only on a car under load. The upper end of the shock absorber is fastened to the bracket on the car body with a nut and washers through two rubber pads. It can be tightened in any suspension position.

The anti-roll bar is a curved spring steel bar. It reduces the roll of the vehicle when cornering. Through rubber cushions pressed by steel clips, it is fixed at two points to the body and to the brackets on the lower support spring cups.

Suspension repair mainly consists of replacing worn and damaged parts. Pay particular attention to the condition of the protective covers of the ball joints (anthers). If they are torn, immediately replace the covers and grease, otherwise the support will quickly fail. The backlash in the upper support can be determined by swinging the wheel when the suspension is compressed (for this, place a shoe 230 mm high under the lower arm closer to the ball joint). To diagnose the condition of the lower hinge, remove the wheel and, pushing the mounting blade between the steering knuckle and the support housing, create an alternating load, probing the movement of the support pin through the boot. Replace rubber-metal hinges (silent blocks) when rubber bulges, tears, cracks or severe wear.When replacing the springs, make sure that they are of the same class (class A - unmarked, class B - with a black stripe on the outer surface of the coils, has a shorter length under load). It is allowed to install class A springs on the front suspension and class B on the rear, but not vice versa.

Front suspension elements

1 - brake disc;
2 - wheel hub;
3 - hairpin;
4 - lower ball joint;
5 - cap;
6 - housing of the outer hinge of the drive;
7 - adjusting nut;
8 - tapered bushing;
9 - hub bearings;
10 - oil seals;
11 - dirt reflecting ring;
12 - rubber cushion of the stabilizer bar;
13 - clip for fastening the stabilizer bar;
14 - rotary fist;
15 - body;
16 - stretching;
17 - a protective cover for the ball pin;
18 - upper ball joint;
19 - cushions for fastening the shock absorber rod;
20 - upper arm;

The Niva VAZ 2121 became the first comfortable Soviet SUV. Until its exit from the factory gates in 1977, all-terrain vehicles were used mainly for military needs. For a Soviet citizen, an off-road vehicle, in principle, was not available, and they were not on the open sale. There was an opportunity to buy decommissioned UAZs, but they did not differ in comfort. The only alternative to them was Volynets with an engine from ZAZ 969, which was available for sale, but it also did not meet all the requirements for comfort, although its off-road properties were highly valued.

Niva turned the concept of an SUV for the semi-wild inhabitants of the country of Soviets - no one has ever seen such comfort as in the six, with the passability of an UAZ, but at first the consumer was stopped by a rather high price, and later they got used to it. Niva has become an active rural worker and city dweller - in terms of performance, it is in no way inferior to the VAZ classics.

Niva 2121, which every motorist can do in his garage with his own hands, is still one of the most popular middle class SUVs. Like every car, the Niva has its own characteristic malfunctions and diseases. Being a very durable and reliable vehicle, it is very easy to maintain. Typical car malfunctions are mainly associated with the peculiarity of its design:

four-wheel drive and a transfer case with a demultiplier sometimes bring some trouble;
body design features;
front wheel drive;
engines from the VAZ 2106 are not designed for use on off-road vehicles;
front suspension characteristic only for Niva.

We will briefly describe some of them, but we will dwell on the body in more detail. Questions to him rarely appear, but this does not negate their relevance.

The main problem with the Niva engine was that it was not originally designed for use in harsh conditions. This explains many of its characteristic breakdowns.

For cars with a 1.7 liter engine, valve lifters have become the biggest problem. More precisely, their adjustment. When installing them, it is necessary to observe a precisely calibrated effort, otherwise they will either wedge or twist out if they are not tight enough. The malfunction makes itself felt with a characteristic knock, and if you do not respond in time, it can kill the camshaft.Therefore, it is better not to take on this business on your own if you do not have enough skills.

Transfer cases, as a rule, never cause problems. You just need to monitor the oil level. Propeller shafts can be a nuisance. Especially if they are not lubricated every 10,000 km. The crosses are not durable enough, but with regular lubrication, they will not be problematic.

Oil seals are another matter. The axles and the transfer case are equipped with oil seals of not the best quality, therefore they often leak. If you do not pay attention to this when changing the oil, then you can easily screw up the dispenser. It is better to buy branded oil seals, according to the factory size. Then there is a guarantee that the oil will not leak until the next MOT. After 2011, the VAZ 2121 has Italian oil seals from the factory installed, in this case there is no cause for concern.

We will present several options for bodywork that you can do with your own hands in the garage with a pit.

Before you start fighting corrosion, you need to figure out how rational it is. If it is easier to change a rotten threshold, then it is better to do this than to mold patches to rust. Nevertheless, there are some ways to give the Niva body a proper look.

Tinning can be used to localize small foci of rust. How to do this, we clearly showed in the figure.

Epoxy resins can also provide temporary protection against corrosion and partial repair of rusted areas. First, you need to thoroughly clean the damaged area, and then apply a polymer patch using fiberglass. After final drying, the patch should be sanded, putty, primed and touched up.

In Nivs, the place where the beam is attached to the body often decays. If you have a semi-automatic welding machine, this can be corrected by making a new pad on the seat.

First, we disassemble the front suspension until free access to the rotten place is obtained and we clean it with a grinder, removing the rusty areas.

Then we cut out a patch of living metal along the cardboard pattern, drill it around the perimeter for better welding contact with the metal of the car and weld it in place as follows.

After that, we grind the welding points with a grinder, prime and cover with anti-corrosion mastic.

Niva VAZ 2121 is a fairly reliable and practical car that does not require expensive repairs. Almost all work, including bodywork, can be done by everyone in his garage at minimal cost.

Front suspension mounted on a vehicle (rear view)

1. Place the vehicle on a lift or inspection ditch, apply the parking brake, open the hood and remove the spare wheel.
2. Place the stops under the rear wheels and remove the front wheels.

4. Disconnect the stabilizer bar (6) from the lower suspension arms (see Fig. Front suspension mounted on the car (rear view)).
5. Disconnect the braces 5 from the body brackets and cross members.
6. Disconnect the shock absorbers from the lower suspension arms.
7. Remove the protective plate for the engine crankcase and splash guard.
8. Remove the front brake caliper from each side, without disconnecting the brake hoses, and hang it so that the caliper does not hang on the hoses.
9. Compress the suspension spring until the lower arm is completely unloaded.
10. Disconnect the ball joint from the lower arm and remove the spring, smoothly relieving it, repeat the operations for the other suspension unit.
11. Disconnect the axle 49 of the upper arm from the bracket 7 of the suspension cross member and remove the upper arm 46 complete with the steering knuckle, wheel hub, front brake and outer hinge housing (see Fig. Front suspension).
12. Disconnect the engine mount rubber mounts from the cross member brackets.
thirteen.Place a hydraulic jack with a cross member fixing device under the suspension cross member and, supporting the engine with cross member 67.7820.9514 or a hoist, disconnect the rebound buffer bracket 47 and the suspension cross member from the body side member.
14. Remove the cross member 1 assembled with the lower levers 4.

1. Install units and parts of the suspension in the reverse order of removal.
2. Springs on the suspension are installed only of one class (class A - without marking, class B - with black marking on the outer surface of the coils).
3. It is allowed to install class A springs on the front suspension, if class B springs are installed on the rear suspension.
4. After assembling and installing the suspension, check the wheel alignment and toe angles.

1 - lower support spring cup;
2 - lower arm;
3 - the axis of the lower arm;
4 - rubber-metal hinge of the lower arm;
5 - spring;
6 - upper support cup;
7 - an insulating spring gasket;
8 - compression buffer;
9 - compression travel stop;
10 - suspension cross member;
11 - cross member bracket bushing;
12 - cross member bracket;
13 - engine mounting bracket;
14 - upper spring support;

1. If, when repairing the suspension, it is necessary to completely disassemble its components, then it is more convenient to start directly on the car, after removing the protective plate of the crankcase and the mudguard.
2. Unscrew the nut of the upper ball joint pin 41 and release the hoses from the brackets (see Fig. Front suspension).
3. Having bend the petals of the protective casing, unscrew the bolts securing the caliper guide and take it together with the caliper to the side.

Warning
To protect the hoses from damage, do not let the caliper hang from the hoses.

4. Using a mandrel 67.7823.9514, remove the hub cap and unscrew the wheel bearing nut.
5. Remove the front wheel hub assembly with the brake disc using the pusher 67.7823.9516.
6. Remove the front brake guard.
7. Remove the front suspension shock absorber.
8. Compress the suspension spring until the lower arm is completely unloaded by lowering the lower suspension arm onto the stand.
9. Disconnect the ball joint housing from the lower and upper suspension arms and remove the steering knuckle.
10. Smoothly relieve the suspension spring and remove it.
11. Using a pusher 67.7823.9515, knock out the axle and disconnect the lower suspension arm from the cross member.
12. Disconnect the upper lever axle from the cross member and remove the axle assembly with the lever.

Warning
Before removing the axles of the upper and lower arms, count the number of washers at each end of the axle of the lower arm and on the bolts of the axle of the upper arm in order to put them in their original places when installing the axles of the arms.

13. Remove the rebound bumper bracket and cross member.
14. Using a puller 67.7824.9516, press out the pins of the ball joints from the holes of the steering knuckle.

1. Assembly of suspension assemblies is carried out in the reverse order of disassembly.
2. When assembling the wheel hub, put a layer of Litol-24 grease into the bearing cages and apply it evenly into the cavity of the steering knuckle between the bearings in the amount of 40 g for each knuckle.
3. When installing cross-member braces, tighten the inner nut until the gap between the washer and the bracket 3 is selected (see Fig. Front suspension mounted on the car (rear view)), and the outer nut - by the torque specified in subsection 1.8.
4. To prevent incorrect distribution of forces in the rubber-metal hinges, tighten the nuts of the lever axles under a static vehicle load of 3140 N (320 kgf).
5. Then check and adjust the wheel alignment and toe angles.

Replacing the silent blocks of the upper arm front suspension of the car VAZ 2121-31 Niva is required more often, than on the lower arm, due to the fact that it is close to the exhaust manifold, where the high temperature has a detrimental effect on it.

To change the silent blocks of the lever first of all you need to remove this lever, so the task will not be easy and will take a lot of time, and if you are going to change on the lower levers, then there is even more work, because then the dismantling of the spring will also be required. Fortunately, in our case, it is enough unscrew the nuts of the upper ball and nuts of the bolts of the lever itself Niva. Remains to knock out or press out the silent blocks by holding the lever in a vice and beat him pretty well with a hammer.

Many owners burn out rubber silent blocks from the Niva suspension arms with a lamp, which does not have a very good effect on the arms themselves, because after heating the metal becomes softer. The silent blocks are pressed back into the lever on a good vice through the head on "22", having previously lubricated the cage with graphite grease. So if you haven't changed the silent blocks in the levers of the VAZ 2121 before, you will have to sweat a lot, but an experienced master can change all eight silent blocks of the front suspension on the Niva in 2-3 hours.

To see how to change the bushings of the upper arm of the front suspension on the VAZ 2121-2131 Niva "4 × 4" watch the video.

Buying a VAZ body is a great chance to save money on an expensive overhaul or buying a new car. It has long been proven that it is more desirable to immediately dispose of a decrepit body for scrap than to periodically repair it in services where they take quite a lot of money for services of this kind. The new body for the most popular Russian SUV is an opportunity for a radical upgrade. On the other hand, if you understand the specifics of body repair, you can carry out the repair yourself.

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Today, various companies offer owners of a universal all-terrain vehicle to purchase assembled or metal bodies. Accordingly, the price will differ. In addition, a wide selection of colors makes it possible for each owner to choose their favorite option.

For example, an assembled body for a Niva will cost about 300 thousand rubles, but a skeleton in metal will be almost half the price.

The bodies of the Niva are realized in the following colors.

Of course, minor defects that appear during the operation of 2121 are not at all a reason for replacing the body. These defects can be easily eliminated by hand, saving on expensive specialist services.

Scratches, for example, can be easily and simply removed by polishing. Several types of grinding compounds and materials are used that effectively remove the top layer of paintwork, level perfectly frayed body parts.

Note. Complete elimination of scratches in such cases is guaranteed, unless, of course, the outer layer of the paintwork is not thoroughly damaged. And in general, you should not overdo it in the polishing process either, because in this case you can achieve the opposite effect, which will lead to a mandatory painting procedure (already more cost).

The restoration of the geometry is also referred to the repair of the body. The curvature of the skeleton and its components occurs not only due to impact, but also due to temperature changes and obsolescence of the metal.

At the same time, it is highly discouraged to follow the operating instructions thoughtlessly. For example, if the book says that the body will last so many years, you do not need to believe this, since more active operation, unnecessary loads and poor quality of the road surface cause unnecessary strain in individual joints, reducing the service life of the car.

Note. Diagnostics and restoration of the geometry of the car frame is the main and mandatory phase in the course of a full-fledged repair.

It is recommended to restore geometry by stretching or compressing the metal frame only in specialized car services equipped with advanced equipment (computer systems), machine tools, and so on.Unfortunately, it will not be possible to carry out competent editing by independent forces.

On the other hand, if, after diagnostics, it was possible to find out that only some of the body elements were deformed, then by tapping and squeezing everything out can be quite effectively eliminated. And in this case, you can carry out the work in two ways: without painting or with it.

Let's consider both options in more detail:

The first repair option is based on the properties of the steel. For example, each element that has elasticity tends to straighten to its original position. This characteristic feature can be put to good use if it is competently, using special tools and technologies, to squeeze out a dent and polish.

Note. Unfortunately, this repair method is available only to a select few - people with extensive experience who have a set of special tools.

The second way is less specific. In this case, it will be enough to evenly tap the part with a hammer from the wrong side, applying a soft stop from the return line.

Note. Tapping is a special technique that needs to be learned. Do not use strong blows, as the steel can flatten.

Another option for repairing the body surface of 2121 involves cutting out the deformed surface. This is done in cases where it is not possible to straighten the element using the above methods. As a result, the body element from 2121 is cut out, the patch is welded.

Finally, if this is not possible, you can take advantage of the replacement of a specific body element as a whole. For example, it can be a fender, bumper, front body panel, and so on.

To protect themselves from problems, a caring driver uses preventive measures. These include, in addition to antigrav treatment and other procedures, enhancement.

All operations related to hardening and restoration of the car body are very difficult, take a lot of time and effort, but give an excellent result.

In the first place, when it comes to modernizing the body, the side members are reinforced immediately. It is often carried out using steel sheets up to 3-4 mm thick. At the same time, the suspension fasteners are strengthened.

Immediately, we note that the strengthening of the side members in front is more relevant than ever if more rigid shock absorbers, springs and larger wheels are installed on the Niva. It is also recommended to do this after installing power bumpers and winches.

Here's what to do:

First, you need to provide access to the spar. To do this, the car is driven onto an overpass or lift, the wheel is dismantled.
Next, the caliper is removed, the retainer is unscrewed from the top of the support.
A knot is knocked out under the lever with a blow of a hammer or technique.
The shock absorbers (top and bottom) are loosened.
The brake cylinder is hung on the hoses.
The upper arm is removable, as well as the cup and upper bumper.
The gearbox and the steering wheel swingarm are released.

This provides access to the spar:

Next, the condition of the place for the shock absorbers is checked. If the part is not rusted, then it should be removed.

Note. To dismantle the "house" without any problems, you should drill the welded points. The drill is first filled with a 5-numbered drill, marks are made. Then the weld spots are finally drilled with a 10-hole drill. And one more thing: you can see all the welded points only after a good cleaning of the metal.

The "house" is removed, and then the entire surface of the spar is cleaned again for the purpose of diagnostics for possible minor defects.
Again, a thorough cleaning, because it is the basis of everything.

It's time to make the overlay:

A piece is cut out according to a pattern from cardboard. Everything is accurately marked on paper, including the locations of the bolts and retainers.
After the layout is ready, you need to put a sheet of 3 mm iron on it and cut it out with a grinder.

Note. It is very important to act according to the rule: measure seven times. In addition, the pad must fit snugly against the side member.

The necessary holes are drilled on the part and the side member.
The pad fits on the bolts and is well fixed.
Then the part is semiautomatically welded around the entire perimeter.
A "house" is put in place and is also welded.

At the final stage of work, it is imperative to cover all working surfaces with anticorrosive. In this case, mastic is the best suited, which dries up in one day.

Below is a list of the most popular measures to strengthen the Niva body and suspension:

Welding of a special type of subframe for the transfer case. This allows you to eliminate misalignment of the box and transfer case, to save the body from vibrations, which will have a very positive effect on the off-road characteristics of 2121.

Note. In simple terms, welding of a subframe is the transfer of fixation of the transfer case from the bottom of the body to the side members (already reinforced). Thus, the distributor receives reliable support and natural protection, including from stones.

Modification or complete replacement of the front suspension beam. A beam is installed with modernized arm bushings at the bottom, effectively blocking the bending of the axes.

Strengthening the side members by welding with metal strips, preferably 4 mm thick.

Installation of modernized ball joints and rigid springs (it is possible from the Volga, but cut by 1.5 turns). This gives a lot of benefits when you consider the heavy Nivovsky front end. Thus, the entire harness is well protected for a long time.
Installation of spacers to increase the suspension travel (spacers 20 mm).
Installation of new GZM shock absorbers Monroe 4x4 Adventure. In this case, it is recommended to reinforce the fixing zones of the dampers without fail using welding.

Installation of springs in the rear of the body from the Signal. They are stiffer and have rubber spacers, which effectively affects the work.
Strengthening the linkage "traction + body" (the standard one looks much weaker).
Replacing the standard grenade with SHRUS 2121, which is less prone to vibrations.
Installation of reinforced thresholds. They run along the entire perimeter of the side of the vehicle using the mandatory reinforcement moldings. The sills must be fixed to the side members.
Installation of a set of reinforced jet rods.

Thus, the owner of the Niva must decide for himself which type of event is more suitable for the car. If the body 2121 is in order, then it will not hurt to carry out reinforcement in order to prevent it. This process is also relevant in the process of repairing an automobile skeleton.

On the contrary, if the body has already become completely unusable, looks decrepit and cannot be restored, it will be easier to replace it. True, today numerous legal delays turn a cardinal replacement into a very difficult and dreary business. But, body elements can always be replaced.

The body on 2121 is the most expensive part of the car. Remember this, try to care for him regularly. Read useful recommendations from our experts, get competent information.

Video (click to play).

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