DIY nissan example p11 suspension repair

The front suspension is independent with a transverse beam, upper and lower wishbones, shock absorbers and an anti-roll bar. The upper wishbones are connected to the steering knuckles by the so-called third, intermediate, levers. The upper strut mount is attached to the mudguards, and the lower to the intermediate levers. A stabilizer bar is connected to the intermediate levers through the struts (see illustration 1.0).

Welding and straightening work on the front wheel suspension elements is not allowed. Damaged parts must be replaced with new ones. When carrying out repair work, always replace self-locking nuts and rusted bolts and nuts with new ones. Self-locking nuts can usually be recognized by the plastic ring on the thread. Self-locking bolts have a protective thread.

The information is relevant for models 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000 model year.

How I repaired the upper swingarm (saga)

If you don't have extra $ in your pocket and your hands grow from where you need it, and you also have the necessary tools and free time, then the following tried-and-true repair option is offered:

Step 1... You take 50 rubles and go to KEMP. There you buy eight “VAZ pendulum bushings” made of black plastic at 40 kopecks apiece, two sets of brass “connecting rod bushings” for Tavria at 13 rubles 50 kopecks per set (4 bushings included) and eight “worm shaft oil seals for VAZ 01-07 ”Metal outside at 2 rubles apiece. Total spare parts for 46 rubles 20 kopecks for the repair of 2 suspension arms.

Video (click to play).

Step 2... With all this stuff you return to the garage. There from the purchased parts you make repair kit... We take the oil seals. The oil seals in the Nissan levers are 38x20x6. The oil seals you purchased have a size of 37x19x10 (the domestic industry, it seems, does not produce the required size). In addition, they are made of iron on the outside. They need to be brought up to condition as follows:

• put the oil seal on a flat metal surface with the spring down and apply evenly around the entire circumference a series of light blows with a hammer so that the oil seal from a flat cylinder with an outer diameter of 37mm and a height of 10mm turns into a barrel with a diameter of 38mm and a height of 8mm;
• take the VAZ pendulum bushings and separate the “hat” and “cylinder”.

Step 3... We remove the levers. To do this, you need a 17 head with a wrench and an extension, a 17 wrench and WD40. Raise the desired side and remove the wheel. We clean all the nuts from dirt and wet the WD40 for 15 minutes. Nuts: one on the near side of the arm, one on the far side, and 2 nuts and 2 bolts securing the bracket to the body that houses the far end of the arm. Unfortunately, the bracket will have to be unscrewed, because the bolt from the far part of the lever is removed towards the passenger compartment and, when the bracket is screwed on, rests its head against the body. Remember to reverse it when reassembling. Two nuts of the bracket are located outside (in the wheel arch - the lower ones) and the two upper ones - inside the engine compartment and are rectangles with threaded holes placed in the pockets. All nuts are anodized inside and should be loosened after wetting under the influence of the head and the amplifier. Yes! First, unscrew the nut and take out the bolt on the near side of the lever. Disconnect the upper and lower arms. We take the upper arm and swing it from the stern to the bow of the car. If it staggers, it needs to be repaired. If not, don't.

Step 4... We repair levers. We remove the old oil seals (I had them all, except one, whole and elastic, at the age, however, 7 years old).We take out the "pieces of iron" (hereinafter, the kingpin) (see figure) and pick out the worn out plastic bushings with a knife. We wipe the inside of the cylinder with a rag and add graphite grease or CV joint grease. In the middle of the cylinder there is a separating rubber seal inside. He doesn't give a damn to us. We also lubricate the "pieces of iron" with graphite grease and put on the ring from the pendulum bushing and behind it the connecting rod bushing until it stops. Again, we lubricate everything with graphite grease. We insert the resulting assembly unit into the cylinder. She comes in tight and half under the influence of assault. For the rest of the half we help with a hammer. We take the oil seal and smear it on the outer ring with sealant, then insert it with the spring outward.

Step 5... Putting everything back and enjoy the unprecedented silence of the suspension and the absence of bumping on the bumps.

In conclusion, I can say:

• that the corrugated cover on the front shock absorber fits from 08 one to one, if you cut a pair of corrugations from it from below;
• you can immediately rush to repair your levers, or you can wait a month, starting today, while I publish the test results.

THINNESS # 1. Native oil seals can be carefully removed safe and sound. For me, for example, they are like new. This is done like this: flat screwdrivers are taken - narrow, thin and ordinary. The spring is removed from the gland and a narrow screwdriver is pushed between the internal gland seal and the lever pivot inside. Then the screwdriver is tilted as parallel as possible to the plane of the gland and its blade is wound under the edge of the gland from the inside. Turning the screwdriver, we lift the edge of the oil seal. Then we move the screwdriver further along the circumference and turn it again. This is possible more often along the entire perimeter. If this is done rarely, the plane of the gland will be violated. If, after the described procedure, the oil seal has risen, but does not come out, you need to help it in the same way with an ordinary screwdriver.

THINNESS # 2. The lever cylinders that are closer to the body are longer than the distal ones. Therefore, to repair one lever, you will need 5 bronze bushings - 2 for the outer cylinder and 3 (1.5 + 1.5) for the inner one.

THINNESS # 3 (most important). Because the bronze bushings are split and when they are inserted, their seam diverges by 1-1.5mm, then there is some eccentricity of the pivots in relation to the lever cylinders. If this same eccentricity on one side of the cylinder does not coincide with the “E” on the other side of the cylinder, then there is a slight misalignment of the pivots relative to each other. This misalignment slightly prevents the bolt from being inserted during assembly and, worst of all, causes the bolt to jam in the pins when tightened. Considering that the bolt should not also rotate relative to the lower pendulum arm, we obtain, with a strong tightening, an absolutely rigid structure, which, at the beginning of operation, of course, looses and begins to creak terribly. There are two ways out of this - a simple one and a more complicated one.

Simple... When inserting the sleeves and their halves, it is necessary that the seam coincides. When inserting pins with bushings on both sides of the cylinder, it is necessary that the seams on the left and right pivots coincide, i.e. so that the eccentricity of both pivots is the same.

Harder... Each sleeve must be cut into three rings and placed on the king pin so that the angle of the seams is 180 degrees. Then, perhaps, the eccentricity will disappear altogether.

THINNESS No. 4. Before inserting the oil seals in place, the assembly must be developed. To do this, a standard bolt is inserted into the kingpin with the lever removed, and clamped with a nut. The lever is clamped in a vice and with a wrench for the bolt we turn the king pin on the bushings. The criterion for the development of the unit is turning the pins on the bushings with a 30 cm wrench (from the driver's kit) with one hand (and not leaning over with the whole body). I needed to grind the bushings a bit on the grinding wheel to get the desired effect. If the node is not developed, then the consequences are the same as in subtlety # 3. I did all this 3 weeks ago. Since then, there have been rains, there was mud, then frosts also hit. First trips on salt. The refurbished units work just perfect. The suspension has become noticeably quieter, especially on small bumps.It makes me happy when you remember that there are ice pits and growths (bumps) ahead on poorly cleaned roads.

20,000 later. Everything is OK, except for domestic oil seals. Where the domestic oil seal was inserted, it creaked again. After disassembly, it turned out that the domestic oil seal is poorly adapted to domestic salt on the roads (as opposed to the English one). The rubber hardened, and the tension spring turned into separate cylinders of rust. Dirt got inside. I disassembled it, oiled it all over again, put new oil seals, only now I filled them with Movil from the outside. Let's see what happens this time.

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