DIY Tiguan suspension repair

Here are photo reports on repair and detailed documentation on cars:

Volkswagen Tiguan (Model Code: 5N1) 2008 - 2011
Volkswagen Tiguan (Model Code: 5N2) 2012 - 2016

Jumped the timing chain on the BWK engine (BLG, BMY) in VW Tiguan 1.4 TSI (rus.) Photo report
Dismantling of engines BWK, BLG, BMY. These engines were installed on cars: VW Tiguan (5N1), VW Touran (1T1), VW Touran (1T2), VW Golf 5 (1K1, 1K5), VW Jetta 5 (1K2), VW Golf Plus (5M1).
Volkswagen Tiguan car, 1.4 TSI engine. Does not start. I checked the compression - zero for all cylinders. He removed the camshaft covers, the valve timing was knocked down. I decided to disassemble the engine. Troubleshooting results.

Replacing the turbine actuator on the CBBB 2.0 TDi 125kw engine (rus.) Photo report
CBBB engine, mileage 166,000 - problem with the turbine control actuator. Symptoms: emergency driving, loss of power, hanging error about an unreliable signal from the actuator sensor.

Rebuilding the intake flap control unit 03L 129 086 V120 on a 2.0 TDI engine (rus.) Photo report
A colleague on a 2.0 TDI engine has an error: 18447 / P2015 / 008213 - Intake Manifold Flap Position Sensor (Bank 1): Implausible Signal
Do not rush to follow Ross's instructions, it is also not advised to run and buy a new block. First, do the following test: Find the damper and check the mobility of the damper rod.

Determination of turbine overflow by logs, TDI engines, etc. (rus.) Photo report
The most pressing problem in turbocharged engines is the occurrence of an overflow. This is especially true for diesel engines. the formation of soot in the exhaust gases leads to its rapid accumulation inside the turbine and wedging of the geometry. First, let's try to figure out how the inflation pressure is regulated, and then let's look at what the blowout looks like in the logs.

TDI CR 2.0 l (CBAB) engine in VW Tiguan (rus.) Technical training. Technical data, Engine mechanics, Fuel system, Exhaust gas treatment, Turbocharger, Bosch EDC 17 engine management system / System diagram in VW Tiguan model, etc.

1.4l / 90kW TSI engine turbocharged (rus.) Device and principle of operation. Self-study program 405 VW / Audi. Engine letter designation: CAXA.
The 1.4l (122hp) TSI engine replaces the 1.6l (115hp) FSI engine. Compared to its predecessor, the new TSI engine offers significantly lower fuel consumption and CO2 emissions with significantly better performance characteristics. It differs from the two TSI engines with double supercharging, first of all, the absence of a compressor and a new charge air cooling system.
Contents: Technical features, Technical data, Intake system, cylinder head, Single-charging with exhaust turbocharger, Cooling systems, Charge air cooling, Fuel system with volumetric flow depending on the flow rate, Overview of the engine management system Bosch Motronic MED 17.5.20, Sensors, Actuators elements, functional diagram.

Volkswagen Tiguan 2007 -: Petrol engine 1.4 liter / 110 kW (BWK) (rus.) Repair manual.
Timing replacement, Block head, lubrication system, cooling system, fuel system, turbocharger, compressor, turbocharging, fuel injection system, exhaust system.

Volkswagen Tiguan 2007 -: Petrol engine 1.4 liter / 110 kW (CAVA) (rus.) Repair manual.
Timing replacement, Block head, lubrication system, fuel system, cooling system, turbocharger, compressor, turbocharging, fuel injection system, exhaust system.

Volkswagen Tiguan 2007 -: Gasoline engines 2.0 l. / 125/147 kW (CAWA, CAWB, CCTA, CCTB) (rus.) Repair manual.
Timing replacement, Block head, lubrication system, fuel system, cooling system, turbocharging, turbocharger, fuel injection system, exhaust system.

Volkswagen Tiguan 2007 -: Diesel engines 2.0 l. / 100/103/120/125 kW (CBAA, CBAB, CBBA, CBBB) (rus.) Repair manual.
Lubrication system, fuel system, cooling system, supercharging system with gas turbocharger, injection system, exhaust system.

Installing a new type chain tensioner on CBFA, CCTA, CCZA, CCZB, CDAA, CDAB engines (rus.) Factory repair manual.
Engines CBFA, CCTA, CCZA, CCZB, CDAA, CDAB were installed on cars:
Volkswagen Tiguan / Volkswagen Tiguan (model code: 5N1, 5N2)

TDI CR 2.0 l (CBAB) engine in VW Tiguan (rus.) Technical training.
Technical data, Engine mechanics, Fuel system, Exhaust gas treatment, Turbocharger, Bosch EDC 17 engine management system / System diagram in VW Tiguan model, etc.

The Volkswagen 2.0 Liter Chain-Driven TSI Engine (eng.) Device and principle of operation. Self-study program VW / Audi 824803. Engine Code: CCTA - CBFA.

Information on the repair of engines VAG / Engines repair
This engine repair information applies to all VAG vehicles. In order to quickly find the documentation for your engine, simply press Ctrl-F on the keyboard and type the letters of your engine. For example: 2E or BSE (English only!)

Cooling, heating, ventilation and air conditioning system
(Cooling, Heating, Air Conditioning and Climate Control Systems)

Replacing the engine radiator (rus.) Photo report.
The procedure is applicable for vehicles on the A5 platform.

Stove fan cleaning (rus.) Photo report
If the fan of the stove sometimes creaks, for example, at a cold one or at certain speeds, or whistles constantly, as I have now, then you should come here! I used to creak sometimes, and then it became constantly.

Auxiliary heater, Workshop Manual (eng.) Repair manual for Webasto Thermo Top V heater. Edition 09.2008
The autonomous parking heater Webasto Thermo Top V was installed together with the engines:
AXX, AZV, BAG, BKG, BKC, BJB, BLF, BLN, BLP, BLS, BRV, BSE, BSF, BMM, BLG, BMY, BPY, BWA, BKD, BMN, BGU, BLX, BLY, BLR, BUB, BVX, BVY, BVZ, BXE, BXF, BXJ, CAVD, CAWB, CAXA, CBAB, CBRA, CBFA, CCTA, CHGA on many cars, including Volkswagen Tiguan (5N1, 5N2) 2008 - 2015
Upkeep (repair groups): 82 - Auxiliary heating.
Repairing auxiliary heater Thermo Top V, Removing and installing auxiliary heater Thermo Top V, Connecting auxiliary heater Thermo Top V to coolant circuit, Fuel supply for auxiliary heater Thermo Top V, Regulation of auxiliary heater Thermo Top V, Electric engine preheater, 230V or 115V , Checking connector, Testing safety switch, Removing and installing engine preheater, Connecting engine preheater into cooling circuit - 2.0L FSI, 1.9L TDI, 1.6L MPI.
64 pages. 1 Mb.

VW Tiguan - autonomous heating and ventilation system (rus.) Webasto presentation. Starting from October 2012, for VW Tiguan cars with 1.4 TSI and 2.0 TDI engines, a new option is available for order - an autonomous heating and ventilation system (in the configurator it is indicated as "parking heater with remote control") With the help of this presentation we will try to briefly answer the main questions according to this system, which the buyer may have:
What it is?
How it works?
What will this option give me?
Why should I order this option when buying a car?
I still have doubts, or other questions.

Direct injection petrol engines. Oxygen sensors (rus.) VW technical training.
Contents: oxygen sensors, two-stage oxygen sensor, adjustable lambda circle for rhythmically controlled systems (with jumping lambda probes), adjustable lambda circle for rhythmically controlled systems, broadband oxygen sensor, 4.2L (BGH) engines, 1.4L engines TSI (BLG), 1.8L (BZB) and 2.0L (CAWB) engines.

Injection and ignition systems
This information on injection systems applies to all VW, Skoda, SEAT, Audi vehicles.

General information on ignition systems
Fits many cars VW, Skoda, SEAT, Audi

Fuel system of FSI engines (rus.) Device and principle of operation. Self-study program 334 VW / Audi. All FSI engines of 66 kW and above are equipped with an advanced fuel system.
This system has the following differences: The parts of the high-pressure pump and the injector rail have a special anti-corrosion coating that protects them from the effects of fuels with an ethanol content of up to 10%. High pressure pump control changed. The fuel drainage pipeline (to the tank), which has leaked along the plunger, has been eliminated as unnecessary. The fuel discharged through the safety valve mounted on the injector rail is diverted through a relatively short pipeline into the low pressure circuit, upstream of the high pressure pump. This Self-Study Program describes the design and operation of the Advanced Fuel System using the example of the 110 kW 2.0-liter FSI engine.
Contents: Composition and diagram of the fuel system, The principle of regulating the fuel supply by its consumption, Components of the fuel system, Fuel pump control unit, Booster electric pump, High pressure pump with fuel pressure regulator, Low pressure sensor, High pressure sensor, High pressure injectors, Pressure regulator , Choke adapter.

General information on fuel systems
Fits many cars VW, Skoda, SEAT, Audi

Replacing the front hub on cars built on the Volkswagen A5 / PQ35 platform (rus.) Photo report.
Information suitable for cars: VW Golf 5 / Jetta 5 (1K), VW Golf 6 (5K), VW Tiguan (5N), VW Touran (1T), VW Golf Plus (5M), VW Beetle (5C), VW Caddy 2 ( 2K), VW Caddy 3 (2C), VW Scirocco (137), VW Eos (1F), Skoda Octavia A5 (1Z), Skoda Yeti (5L), Audi A3 (8P), Audi TT (8J), SEAT Leon Mk2 (1P), SEAT Altea (5P).

Elimination of hard-to-diagnose knock in the suspension (rus.) Photo report
Applicable for all A5 (PQ35) platform: VW Golf 5, VW Golf 6, VW Jetta, VW Golf Plus, VW Touran, VW Caddy, VW Tiguan, VW Eos, Skoda Octavia 2, Audi A3, Audi TT, Seat Altea, Seat Toledo, Seat Leon.

Replacing the rear silent levers in cars built on the Volkswagen A5 / PQ35 platform (rus.) Photo report
Information suitable for cars: VW Golf 5 / Jetta 5 (1K), VW Golf 6 (5K), VW Tiguan (5N), VW Touran (1T), VW Golf Plus (5M), VW Beetle (5C), VW Caddy 2 ( 2K), VW Caddy 3 (2C), VW Scirocco (137), VW Eos (1F), Skoda Octavia A5 (1Z), Skoda Yeti (5L), Audi A3 (8P), Audi TT (8J), SEAT Leon Mk2 (1P), SEAT Altea (5P).

General Suspension Information
Fits many cars VW, Skoda, SEAT, Audi

Timely replacement of silent blocks Tiguan is the way to silence while driving. In most cases, if you hear squeaks and knocks behind when overcoming obstacles, firstly you should suspect the stabilizer bushings, but it so happens that everything is in order with them, but the roads and salt did their job to suppress the silent blocks - it was with such a picture that Tiguan arrived. Diagnostics of the chassis and close inspection revealed cracks, tears and peeling of the rubber parts of the silent blocks, an excellent opportunity for the suspension to arrange a drum party at the first irregularity.

• Car: Volkswagen Tiguan
• Year of issue: 2012
• Model Year: 2012
• Engine: CAWA (2.0L 1984 cc 170 hp)
• ICE features: FSI, 4 valves per cylinder, turbocharger
• Transmission: JVZ (classic automatic transmission, 6 steps, modification 09M)
• DSG Preselective Gearbox Robot: No
• Mileage: 75 121 kilometers

The owner of the Volkswagen Tiguan came to the spring diagnostics and scheduled technical inspection - he was worried about a knock in the back of the car. Ms Diagnostics soon nodded towards the rear silent blocks, they say, they have strong wear, so they began to indulge. The verdict was passed, the estimate was provided, the owner waved his hand and shouted "Walk like this!" and "When will the fools mend the roads?" went into the sunset, leaving the phone for communication. In time! The knock is just a harbinger, camber and toe will disappear behind it. And that's right, if you continue driving, then the wrong camber and toe will be added to the knock - which means goodbye tires.

We lift the sufferer on a lift and, for a start, rid him of the wheels. We remove the parking brake actuator wiring fasteners, unscrew the stabilizer post from the trailing arm and two fastening bolts that are sent to the world of blast furnaces.

Freedom to the trailing arm!

Replacing the silent blocks of Tiguan is the dismantling of the trailing arms with brackets on both sides - we change only in pairs and nothing else. Half measures give a half guarantee. Specially invited guest hydraulic press: no exercise with a hammer, barbarian chisel and other such delights. We mark the position of the support bracket on the body, this will greatly facilitate our life when it returns to its natural habitat. The less dancing with tambourines, the better.

We mark the coordinates of the bracket installation

The procedure is fine-tuned to the smallest detail, with some delicacies, of course, but apparently German magicians cannot do without them - it's not for nothing that their films for adults were so popular in the nineties. With a breath “Ya, ya, das ist fantastish”, unscrew the four bolts and release the pair of “trailing arm-support bracket”.

Marks are ready, you can remove the lever with the bracket

The cracks on the silent block are visible to the naked eye, according to their condition, it can be assumed that it went through fire, water and copper pipes, pits, salt puddles and recumbent traffic policemen.

Cracks in the silent block Volkswagen Tiguan

We separate the support bracket from the lever for a while, clamp the lever in a vice, mark the position of the bracket relative to the lever with a mark (useful during assembly) and unscrew the bolt.

Getting rid of the bracket

The trailing arm moves to the press, where, using two mandrels, we squeeze out the silent block.

We press out the silent block Tiguan

Here is the first tired rubber-metal cylinder.

Replacement of silent blocks Tiguan in full swing, where the first, there and the second.

Replacing silent blocks Tiguan is a necessary thing

We install the silent block in the lever according to the following rules:

• do not confuse sides;
• correctly align the imaginary line through the rubber tabs with the mark on the lever;
• press in the silent block exactly at the level of the trailing arm glass.

We press new silent blocks into the trailing arm

We return the support bracket to the lever, aligning the marks that we put during disassembly. We check the distance from the middle of the bolt to the edge of the bracket, it should be 57.5 millimeters with a tolerance of 1 millimeter in either direction, tighten the bolt.

Be careful when installing the bracket

We do the same with the second pair of "trailing arm-support bracket" and get ready to return them to the place specified by the engineers. We process the joints with a copper emulsion.

Nobody should rust for no reason

We attach the trailing arm to the wheel bearing housing, it is also the rear fist, it is the axle. We do not tighten the bolts, but only bait, we need mobility.

We bait the bolts, but do not tighten

Now you need to raise the suspension, so the bracket is quietly installed in the groove and it is convenient to combine it with the marks applied earlier. Tighten the new bolts to 50 Newtons per meter and turn the wrench 45 °.

We fasten the bolts only with the “speaker”

It was the turn to tighten the bolts on the lever to the victorious 90 Newtons per meter + tighten it by 45 °.

We fasten the stabilizer post, connect the parking brake cable, observing the required size between the mount and the connector, it should be 150 millimeters.

Do not forget to connect the parking brake - it will come in handy

We return the wheels and send the car for wheel alignment. For correct adjustment, we equalize the pressure in the wheels.

Equalizing the pressure in the wheels

We install sensors on the wheels and determine which wheel is looking where and what to do with them.

We measure camber, toe and caster Tiguan

This is the picture emerging. Fortunately, there are experienced people who in a short time reduce all the values ​​to the required ones.

After replacing the silent blocks, the camber-convergence procedure is mandatory

By the way, it is good practice to check all the bolts and nuts on a two-post lift before moving to four posts, so as not to get an unpleasant surprise during the adjustment process.

Soon everything will be in the green zone

It will not work with ordinary keys to regulate the toe camber, you need special cunningly curved specimens. With them, and soon, and efficiently, and damn convenient.

These are the keys to regulate the camber - convergence

Done, replacement of silent blocks Tiguan is designed in the best traditions, collapse and convergence in the center of the "green zone". A test call to the owner with the good news that from now on he can enjoy a comfortable and quiet ride until the two main troubles take their toll again.

Time spent on all operations 3 hours 20 minutes... The turnkey cost was 7200 rbl.

Let's show how to do it yourself by replacing the front ball joints and stabilizer struts in a Volkswagen Tiguan (Volkswagen Tiugan) 2009 release. We loosen the wheel nuts, raise the car, remove the wheel. We take a ratchet wrench for 18, a Torx M6 multifaceted bit:

It was not possible to unscrew the lower mount with the keys, it was broken off and rusted, so I had to cut it off with a grinder, if it is difficult to do it too. The boot of this stabilizer strut has become unusable, the finger is dangling.

We unscrew the ball joint, first spray it with WD-40, we need a key for 18:

With the help of improvised means, we remove the ball, the boot on it has also become unusable. We install a new ball from Lemforder:

Parts catalog number: 26773 02. The kit includes three new fastening nuts, and one for the pin.

Video replacement of the front ball joints and stabilizer struts Volkswagen Tiguan:

Reserve video how to replace the front ball joints and stabilizer struts in the Volkswagen Tiguan:

The Volkswagen Tiguan suspension is a system that includes a number of essential elements: shock absorbers, levers, springs, connecting parts.

The purpose of the Volkswagen Tiguan suspension is as follows:

• Decrease of oscillatory movements of the Volkswagen Tiguan body when driving;
• Ensuring permanent contact of the wheels with the road surface with the same process.

In fact, the Volkswagen Tiguan suspension is a link that connects the wheels of the vehicle directly to the body of the car.

When and why should you perform the Volkswagen Tiguan suspension diagnosis? One of the consequences of damage to the Volkswagen Tiguan suspension is the appearance of an unpleasant knock while driving. Naturally, this can lead to a decrease in driver concentration and possible troubles on the road.

A malfunction of this system also reduces the handling of the Volkswagen Tiguan and can lead to wheel wedges, which immediately creates a dangerous situation for the driven vehicle and other road users.

It is recommended to take into account that under normal conditions of use of the Volkswagen Tiguan, the most important parts of the suspension consume their resource by about the following moment:

• 100 thousand kilometers - silent blocks, springs, levers;
• 30 thousand kilometers - shock absorbers;
• 15-30 thousand kilometers - ball bearings.

Some elements of the Volkswagen Tiguan suspension can fail much earlier. Much depends on additional loads, road surface conditions, climatic features. Therefore, it is important to know the signs of a malfunction of the Volkswagen Tiguan chassis and diagnose in time. If the car owner hears a knock when driving from the location of the suspension, then it needs to be tested urgently.

Volkswagen Tiguan suspension computer diagnostics. The inability to perform the diagnostic procedure for the Volkswagen Tiguan suspension in this way is due to the lack of special sensors. Therefore, testing is done mechanically.

Checking the Volkswagen Tiguan suspension on a vibration stand. A vibration stand is a special installation that allows you to perform suspension diagnostics. Its task is to create oscillatory movements. Such a shaker is equipped with a special moving platform, on which, when checking the suspension, the front and rear pair of Volkswagen Tiguan wheels are installed alternately. Data is collected using sensors that transmit information to a computer.

The vibration table allows you to professionally diagnose the Volkswagen Tiguan suspension if the following conditions are met:

• The transport must be in working order.
• The pressure in the wheels should not be lower than the established norm.
• The Volkswagen Tiguan gearbox should be shifted to neutral during diagnosis. This is done so that the wheels of the tested machine can rotate freely when the special platform of the vibration table moves.
• The diagnostic equipment must be configured specifically for the Volkswagen Tiguan.

Only if these conditions are met, the vibration table allows you to assess the degree of wear of the Volkswagen Tiguan suspension, primarily in the shock absorber system.

The Volkswagen Tiguan suspension diagnosis is recommended in the following situations:

• When extraneous knocking, bouncing occurs while driving over bumps or when entering turns.
• If uneven rubber wear is detected.
• If the steering wheel free play has increased.
• If the ABS starts to work prematurely or abnormally.

If it is impossible or unwilling to perform testing using a shaker or computer scan, you can always diagnose the Volkswagen Tiguan suspension in the traditional way. Initially, the Volkswagen Tiguan is driven onto an overpass, inspection pit, or a special lift is used. The car should be securely fixed.

Remove the wheel. Remove the coil spring. Unscrew nut -1- and detach strut -2- from stabilizer. Unscrew bolt -arrow-securing cross-link rods -3-.

Remove bolts securing stabilizer strap -arrows-.

Unscrew nut -arrow- and remove bolt towards rear. Remove cross rod -1-.

Install the transverse link to the vehicle and hand-tighten the bolts. Tightening of the transverse rod mounting bolts can only be done after the suspension has been set to the position corresponding to dimension “a”!

Screw cross rod -1- to subframe and tighten new nut -arrow-. Tighten down anti-roll bar clamp -arrows-. Tighten down bolt -arrow- for tie-rod assembly -3-.

Instruction: Make sure a washer is installed between the nut and the wheel bearing housing.

Insert strut pin -2- into stabilizer hole and tighten nut -1-. Install the coil spring. Install the wheel and tighten the bolts. Check the wheel alignment angles.

To avoid troubles with the suspension of an auto mechanic of a specialized service center, it is recommended to check its condition twice a year. Autumn and spring. Damage can often be prevented. In addition, the suspension consists of a dozen elements. Failure of one threatens to turn into repair of others. Owner Volkswagen TIGUAN I heard a grinding noise, extraneous knocks appeared in the rear of the car. However, he did not immediately pay due attention. Only when the ground clearance of the car changed, and the car fell a little on the right side, I decided to contact a specialized car service. Volkswagen TIGUAN pulls into the repair area of ​​a specialized car center. The auto mechanic has to carry out running diagnostics and eliminate the malfunction.

The car is put on a lift, the car left the assembly line in 2010, the mileage is 80 thousand kilometers. So we can say that it's time for something to break. An auto mechanic of a specialized car service begins work. In principle, when inspecting the undercarriage, you should pay attention to the following elements:

- Ball joints for backlash;

- Visually inspect longitudinal and transverse levers, silent blocks;

- Measured wear of brake discs and pads;

- The condition of shock absorbers, springs is checked;

- Outboard bearings and gearbox are "listened to".

You can order any original spare parts for Volkswagen repair, as well as their analogues, by calling 244-59-63

Based on his many years of experience, the auto mechanic, first of all, drew attention to the condition rear springs... And I was not mistaken. The right rear - fell apart into two parts. Replacement required. The left spring will also have to be replaced, they only change in pairs. In the warehouse of a specialized car service, there is a large selection of spare parts, both original and their analogues. The owner of the Volkswagen TIGUAN was offered a choice of two high-quality analogs: springs production companies BILSTEIN and LESJFORS. It was decided to use LESJFORS springs for replacement, they are cheaper.

For an experienced auto mechanic specialized car service change rear suspension springs won't be a big problem. The owner of the car oversees the process of work - this is not prohibited in our car service. First, the auto mechanic needs to remove the right wheel. Then:

- Unscrew the caliper block;

- We lower and take out the lever;

- The landing site must be cleaned of dirt and dust;

- We make replacement and assembly.

Similar actions are performed with the left wheel. Replacement of rear suspension springs has been completed successfully. After this procedure, it is recommended to perform camber toe... The specialized car service is equipped with modern universal stands HUNTER 3D HAWKEYE. They meet the highest quality standards and allow the most accurate and precise adjustments to be made in record time. An hour after the Volkswagen treatment TIGUAN leaves the repair area. The car is in good order.

Interesting fact: The rear suspension springs are only replaced in pairs.

The rear suspension has been creaking for 3 months, just like an old cart. The run is already 140t.km.
Drove in for a diagnosis and sentenced me to:
1. Rear suspension arm, transverse, lower 1K0 505 311 AB
It changes along with the silent block, because it does not come out - 2pcs (number 7 in the picture)
2. Silent block of the rear trailing arm 1K0 505 541 D (number 3 in the figure) changes in the lever (number 2 in the figure).

The silencers are all with holes, respectively, worn out and torn.

Immediately anticipating the question of the lower levers, where, according to the scheme, it is possible to change the silent.
You cannot press it out and put a new one, for Tiguan it is not in the order.

Well, and the best part is that you can take levers that are not the original, 2 times cheaper than the original

Weird. In reality, when ordering a lever at the bottom of the table, it gives out a bunch of options for silent, as doals, which are an integral part of this lever.

Where does the information about the impossibility of repressing come from?

Sorry. remontvw.spb, already wrote about it.

vlas, so the dealer told me and according to the scheme in the Exist it is written that it is not for this model.
About silent - I also saw the list, but changed everything at the dealer, now there is a 20% discount on repairs. They don't republish.
I would have to go to them, remove the lever, lead somewhere for repressing. Too long and confusing.
Moreover, there is a non-original, the price is optimal

Added after 58 seconds
remontvw.spb, the same creaked?

Added after 1 minute
Although the survivability of the rear suspension is stronger than the front.
In the front hall I have already changed the silencers 2 times.

130 thousand run for almost 4 years without 2 months - decent numbers. It's time to summarize the interim results. And they are sad))) The first malfunction crept up noticeably - a dull knock on the right front on irregularities. I went to a simple nearby service for diagnostics: stabilizer struts and at the same time silent blocks along with levers. Wild costs, 30 thousand, non-dealer. Ok, I went to the dealer. He says the racks and silent, the levers do not need to be changed. If everything is dealership, then a measly 22 thousand, incl. 6 work and 16 spare parts. Everything is available, these are consumables. Convenient, of course. I wanted to replace it right there, but it seems like a man-made crisis is in the yard, it is necessary to support the trend of frugality.

I read about Autodok, but not everything is available there. Back to the Exist. No problem, but a prepayment was requested. I think, okay, guys are proven, keep it, it's not a pity. In the evening I read on AM about Exist and Iznext - that's what I got. But the next day the call is from the first - tomorrow open wider doors. Well, bandits, my mood has improved dramatically, (c) Zhmurki. In the evening I come home from work, look suspiciously at a small box 170x170x100 and try to guess how a mere mortal, not a fairy, not a magician, can put a stabilizer bar in it. I open it, my mood has deteriorated sharply - half of the spare parts are missing, incl. racks. I inform Exist about my emotional recession by e-mail and by phone. After 2 days, again, like in Zhmurki, Panin was in the mood - a courier was on his way. Another proof that the main thing in our world is information. If I knew about Exist's problems, I saved so much nerves. And so he saved only 9 thousand, but hard earned.

But for the work I gave everything to the dealer 6 thousand. All the same, I earned 9 on it, I need to help my compatriots)))

In general, I replaced the stabilizer struts, support brackets (silent blocks are built into them, if I understand correctly) and separate silent blocks.The latter, without damage, could probably not have been changed. Cracks are visible in the silencers of the support brackets:

It seems that the suspension has become softer with the replacement of the silent (it may seem) and the knock disappeared. The locksmith said the suspension and everything else is in excellent condition.

While repairing my Tiga, I tested a new diesel one. Everything is better, Shumka, dynamics, inside, outside, volumes, except for the price. The old one in trade-in was estimated at 830tr, the new 2.2-2.5 million in a comparable configuration. Not worth the new three old ones))))

There were three engines in the Tiguan family - a diesel and two gasoline. The petrol 1.4 TSi has recently become less and less in demand, and it has almost ceased to be installed. A small loss, since this engine, in addition, was reputed to be unreliable - it was capricious because of the poor quality of Russian fuel, or even broke down altogether: as a result of a timing chain jump, the pistons "fraternized" with the valves. The latter happened due to the unsuccessful design of the tensioner, which was devoid of blocking the counter-flow: with the engine stopped and, accordingly, zero oil pressure, nothing prevented the plunger from getting away, leaving the chain hanging on the sprockets. At the next start of the engine, until the oil pushes the plunger into working condition, everything happened.

The other two engines - a diesel 2.0 TDi and a gasoline 2.0 TSi - turned out to be "smarter". And to the owners of a car with a 1.4 TSi engine, we will give a simple advice: in order not to provoke the tensioner, please do not leave a car with a manual gearbox in gear! Sometimes a slight slope is enough for the crankshaft to turn and sink the plunger.

The diesel fuel filter is installed under this cover (arrow). The manufacturer strongly advises against disconnecting the fuel pipes from the cap, as well as changing the filter yourself.

Please note that the main problem with engines with a factory index CLJA is precisely the failure of the fuel equipment. Therefore, before rolling up your sleeves, measure seven times: is it worth it?

Another source of problems is the timing belt. According to the regulations, it is supposed to be changed after 150 thousand km, but in reality they do not live so much. Do not rely on the instructions, but heed the advice of the masters: if they said that it’s time, then you need to change. You yourself are unlikely to start messing around, since the operation is not easy: you need to hang out the power unit and know a number of subtleties - we strongly recommend contacting specialists.

Fortunately, the replacement of the rest of the consumables was handled pretty quickly: a total of fifteen minutes was spent on glow plugs (sooner or later they will have to be changed), poly V-belt and oil.

But there is a serious complaint about changing the oil: the plastic lining of the engine has a transition to the oil filler neck in the form of a funnel, which collects all the dirt at the bottom. It is worth removing the plug, and all this rubbish strives to crumble into the oil cavity. Dealers first blow through the funnel with compressed air, but we just advise you to remove the parasitic part - the rubber seal installed on the engine neck (see photo). Then the dirt will have nowhere to accumulate.

On a CAWA gasoline engine, it is also advisable to remove this seal - the design is similar. But here, in addition, there is a restrictor flap at the inlet to the throat, which makes it difficult to fill in a fresh portion of oil - it was because of it that the overall rating was lowered, although access to the filter is excellent.

When changing spark plugs, be careful with the connectors mounted on the common rail. They need to be disconnected sequentially, starting from the first cylinder, having previously submitted each of the pads towards the coil (otherwise you risk breaking off the retainer).

Although the common ramp with coil connectors has little flexibility, disconnecting the connectors is still inconvenient: removed and strives to snap back. Turnkey candles "16".

Replacing the fuel filter is more difficult, and most importantly, more expensive than when working with a diesel engine: a replaceable cartridge is not sold separately, it is replaced only in assembly with a fuel level sensor and pipes connecting the unit to the pump.But the main thing is that it is impossible to replace all this economy without dipping your hands into the tank - but how else can you disconnect the tips of the pipes? It is easy to understand that the difficulties arose due to the fact that the gas tank is divided into two halves by the cardan shaft. But why the filter cartridge is not supplied as spare parts, although it is fastened with the usual latches, remains a mystery.

A chain is installed in the timing drive, according to the regulations, it is supposed to change it (along with tensioners and dampers) every 180 thousand km. Here the manufacturer was reinsured. Considering that there are much more nuances and difficulties in such a mechanism than in a belt drive on a diesel engine, it remains only to wish you a happy journey to the service.

Replacing antifreeze is more difficult than usual because there are no drain plugs in the system. According to the technology, it is necessary to remove the lower pipes from the electric pump (on a diesel engine, in addition, and from the oil heat exchanger), squeezing the antennae of the corresponding plate clamps with pliers. It's a simple matter, but beware of a waterfall of a poisonous liquid: prepare precautions and a wide container to catch a wide stream in advance. To dilute the branded concentrate G12 plus plus, we use distilled water: for a temperate climate, mix in a 1: 1 ratio, and for a severe one (up to –40 ° C), add 3.2 liters of distillate to 4.2 liters of concentrate.

Being of sound mind, change the oil in the manual gearbox without any problems: the unit has a drain and a filler (aka control) plugs. But in the automatic transmission you will not find the usual dipstick: the level is checked through the turned-out plug of the overflow pipe: if at a temperature of 35–45 ° C (selector in position P) oil drips from the hole, then everything is normal. No - add a liter of fresh through the same hole and repeat the check. There are four plugs in the rear axle gearbox, since the unit is divided into two zones, with a separate crankcase for the Haldex clutch. Often these plugs get confused and get into trouble due to oil starvation of one of the mechanisms. Take a look at the photo, then you won't be mistaken.

Rear axle reducer plugs are shown with green arrows, and Haldex clutches are shown with red arrows. Of course, the filler plugs are upper, and the drain plugs are lower (formally, they are all disposable).

To access the front pads, you will need a Torx-45 - the design of the mechanism is exactly the same as in the Golf VI ( ZR, 2012, No. 5 ): with three-fingered plates we insert the inner shoe into the piston, and the outer one, which is without the plates, into the bed of the staple.

If the car has an electric handbrake, then it is better not to bother with replacing the rear pads, since you need the same "shaman" in the form of a dealer scanner - to use it to command the electric motors to sink the pistons. And after replacing the pads with it, calibrate the mechanism. Here's another goal for you in the garage door. And it’s not the first!

Igor Kozlov:

"Tiguan" immediately reminded me of the recent hero of this column - "Golf": as if he looked in the mirror. The ease of replacing the cabin filter, the V-ribbed belt and headlamps is negated by ill-conceived access to the headlights and fuel filter.

We thank the Germanika company in Beregovoy proezd (Moscow)

for assistance in preparing the material.