DIY Toyota Camry 40 suspension repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the Toyota Camry 40 suspension from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The main function of the suspension is to tie the wheels and bodywork together into a single structure. Thanks to the suspension, a force is transmitted to the body that affects the wheels. It includes a number of parts (shock absorbers, springs, etc.) that ensure the stability of the machine when cornering and when maneuvering, reduce body vibrations and reduce dynamic loads.

In addition, smoothness, comfort and safety of passengers and the driver depend on it. The vehicles of this model are equipped with rear and front independent suspension of the MacPherson brand.

Remember! In order for these structures to have a long service life, you need to constantly monitor the condition of the Camry 30 suspension and its other modifications.

Toyota Camry is one of the most popular cars among Russian motorists. Using the V40 as an example, consider what elements the rear suspension unit consists of:

upper spring support;
spring;
shock absorber rack;
the lower arm is the place of its attachment;
rubber bushings.

A similar rear suspension of a Toyota Camry V40 with a MacPherson strut contains longitudinal and transverse levers. In addition, the Camry 40 models have anti-roll bars for lateral stability. This type of rear suspension is simple and compact, it has the best wheel kinematics.

This Camry V40 circuit, like other models, consists of these basic elements:

upper shock absorber support;
bearing for the rack;
spring socket;
rubber cover that protects against moisture, dust, etc .;
the spring is cylindrical;
rebound limiter;
spring gasket;
shock absorber rack.

Video (click to play).

This assembly for the Camry 30 and its advanced models reduces vibrations, ensures a smooth ride and, together with the hydraulic brake system, increases the stability of the car, including on slippery roads.

This construct is connected to the steering knuckle, and a stabilizer is also attached to it, which is responsible for lateral stability. The material for it is spring steel. The result of the lever operation is to reduce the roll of the car when cornering. Replacing the lever is carried out when it is impossible to repair the suspension, and an update must be performed for safe and comfortable movement.

They do it for the following reasons:

the geometry of the lever has changed as a result of deformation or mechanical damage;
excessive wear at the bushing attachment point;
failure of the ball joint or silent block and other reasons.

The rear system, like the front one, is a connecting element for the body and the wheel of the car. The issue of its repair arises when discomfort appears during movement (lateral swing, vibration, etc.). Having decided on the malfunction, we proceed to repair or replace defective elements.

raise and fix the machine;
remove the wheel;
install the support;
loosen the shock absorber mounting bolt at the bottom;
we loosen the upper mounting bolts of the rack;
remove the shock absorber;
install a new part, tighten the upper bolts and install the lower connection;
remove the shock absorber;
we mount the wheel;
we lower the car;
so that there is no skewing of the bushings, tighten the fastening bolt at the bottom.

The rubber-metal hinge or silent block consists of two different diameters of metal tubes, between which there is an insert made of polyurethane, rubber or other durable material. Such a hinge element is the fastening material for the suspension system. With long-term use, the silent block eventually loses its quality due to wear and tear and begins to knock.

Practice shows that a spare part with a polyurethane base increases the stability and controllability of a car, in comparison with conventional ones.

Knocking in the front suspension, why it rattles, causes and remedies
One of the signs of unusable silent blocks is a knock in the front suspension, which at the initial stage may be intermittent. In addition to the fact that it rattles in front, the controllability of the car also decreases, the rubber wears out unevenly. To get confirmation of the alleged problems, you need to follow a series of simple steps:

place the car on a level surface;
make sure the integrity of the springs visually or by measuring the clearance;
shake the car to make sure that the damping is not broken.

Next, install the machine on a lift to inspect for leaks in shock absorbers, cracks, traces of impacts and other damage to system elements. Using a pry bar, we check all bushings, connecting elements for play and wear. When carrying out diagnostics, maintenance or when performing repair work, a visual inspection of the hinges, protective covers, struts, bushings, etc. is carried out. The presence of cracks, deformations and other defects requires their replacement.

Untimely replaced silent blocks can not only lead to the already listed consequences, but also require replacement of the suspension system, and can also entail tragic consequences.

As you can see from the article, you can fix the problems of the rear and front suspension in the car yourself. In the event of malfunctions, they should be eliminated immediately, since your safety depends on it.

Well, finally, they shook up the suspension on my SV40 Camry. It remains to do the collapse today. I want to share my first impressions. To begin with, at first I decided to change all the shock absorbers for the Kayabov 33 series, gas-oil, since they were sweating frankly on the left side. Yes, and tortured the eternal problem of the Camry / Vista soft rear suspension. Then I thought it’s not worth changing the rack without looking at the condition of the axle suspension parts. In short, I went to the service, on the recommendation, said the master is good. As a result, the following scope of work was identified and done:
1. Replacing the struts in a circle, of course with anthers and bumpers.
2. Replacing the steering rods and tips.
3. Replacement of internal and external drive anthers.
4. Replacement of ball joints.
5. Replacing the elastic bands of the rear longitudinal rods. In fact, they go together with the lever in the original, but the master somehow pressed them out, pressed them, picked them up, they did something with the turner there, in short, he assures everyone will be hurt. It was too expensive to buy the lever because of the rubber band - 1,400 rubles, and you have to order it, nowhere else.
6. Yes, I also replaced the rear springs with Swedish lesenfor.

What did you get? Until I drove hard, I can say one thing, the car raised, it's hard to say how much, but 2-3 centimeters for sure, not more than perhaps. Stands exactly, well. pa not battened down, father-in-law new rear springs fit teak to teak. The car has become noticeably tougher. I used to sit down, she sagged a little, now there is zero emotion. I tried to shake her ass, it was not there, barely pushed through by five centimeters! When driving on asphalt, small potholes also began to be felt more noticeably, in short, the comfort became less. But I drove down onto a gravel road with a comb, the car goes much more pleasantly, I really didn’t go fast. In a word, the car has become stiffer, higher, less comfort, but for our roads, IMHO, it is better than a soft suspension and comfort. I will go on the highway, I will share my impressions of the behavior at high speeds.

The only thing that surprised me was that the master said that he had made homemade mounts on the racks for brake hoses and ABS, I looked, everything was soundly-strong, but why? There are standard mounts, today I will ask again, why did he do it? Maybe the hoses touched the rack a little when driving?

P.S. I want to advise everyone to raise the Camry / Vista and cure the soft suspension - put Kayab struts and new springs, you don’t use any spacers. Personally, I'm happy with the result so far. Next, let's see how with a full load, how it behaves on the track, but IMHO, according to first impressions, everything should be fine.

Yes, if anyone is interested, the price is 27800.The spare parts are all Japanese original, except for the springs and of course the shock absorbers (Japanese but not the original), and even the anthers of the drives are not original, but also Japanese, taken in the Toyota center, they put them all, alas I don’t remember the name of the company, the springs are Swedish.

The rubber bands on the wishbones die quietly. The master said you will skate for the winter and come, we will change, they say, after the winter they will certainly be a kirdyk. The thing is that you can't press out the rubber bands in these levers, you can't press them, you have to take them with a lever, four levers cost 12,000 rubles in the Toyota center, and you also need to order them, they are not available anywhere. I don’t know, I’ll wait for spring, I won’t, but how the money will appear, you look and change, for complete happiness. By the way, I made a collapse a couple of hours ago, flew a sotochku, normal flight!

Another interesting information, I found out from the master why he made a homemade mount for brake hose racks, it turns out to be on Kayab racks, for some reason this mount is noticeably lower than on the original ones, and it is problematic to attach native hoses to them. Maybe the Japs have already changed the hoses to some non-original ones before me? In short HZ, it's surprising, but now it's too late to rush. the racks themselves, by the way, stood up perfectly. Yes, and I rechecked them myself in the catalog - they are.

The cartridges in Krasnoyarsk cost about 1,500, and I had collapsible racks, just when they were removed, it became clear that the stocks behaved, that is, naturally curved, not like a Turkish saber, of course, but quite enough to drive oil. In short, figs that the cartridges would have turned out. And the difference between the cost of a cartridge and a rack of 800 rubles is not critical for me. True, comrade KAMAR who here on the forum explains to everyone the situation on the Kayab racks, claims that the original front racks were installed on the SV40 of two types, some change to 334170/171 (mine), and on others they put cartridges about which you are writing. Because of this, it seems to me that I had a problem with the fastening of the brake hoses, I had to do it myself, I saw only the cartridges fit me. So who will change the rack, keep in mind.

Yes damn it, live and learn, now people have enlightened that the cartridge is a full-fledged shock absorber, both with a stem, and with everything else. Kromen of the glass rack itself. Damn it was necessary to buy a cartridge, and there would be no brand with hose fasteners. Friends, be careful, these assholes in stores cannot tell anything, or do not want to, the stands are more expensive than the cartridges, here stsuki, they sold not what they needed. Well, now it's too late, I'll drive as it is.

In order for the Toyota Camry 40 to smoothly overcome the unevenness of the road surface, the suspension is used. Very strict requirements are imposed on it.

It must be soft enough to absorb shock, but still rigid to maintain good handling, such as when cornering.

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The suspension of the Toyota Camry 40 is the link between the wheels and the body. She has to work in an aggressive environment. At the same time, the suspension fulfills a number of requirements and functions assigned to it:

provides elastic connection of wheels and body;
withstands continuous loads without loss of original properties;
minimizes vehicle vibrations;
slightly susceptible to deformation;
reduces dynamic loads on the body;
absorbs shock loads.

The above set of qualities possessed by the front and rear MacPherson type suspensions used on the Toyota Camry 40 allows the car owner to feel comfortable and safe while driving. If the characteristics of the suspension do not suit the car owner, tuning and individual adjustment of all parameters is possible.

The official manual characterizes the front suspension as an independent MacPherson lever-spring system.The layout of the suspension elements, shown in the figure below, includes the following elements:

The right shock absorber and the left one at number 6. Serve to damp vibrations. In addition to damping vertical movements, they are assigned the function of telescopic guides. A coil spring is installed over the shock absorber. There is a compression buffer and an upper support. Force is transmitted through the shock absorber strut to the vehicle body.
Anti-roll bar. Connect the stabilizer bar to the shock absorber strut.
Spherical bearing.
Lower arm. Connected to the subframe. Fastening is made using silent blocks and rubber-metal bushings.
Stabilizer bar. Has rubber bushings mounted on it. With their help, the attachment to the subframe is realized.
Rounded fist. Connected to the shock absorber strut on one side and the lower arm on the other. Contains installed hubs. For the mobility of the structure, a double-row angular contact bearing is used.

The disassembled shock absorber strut, which is one of the main suspension elements, is shown in the photo below.

Suspension Toyota Camry 40 is renowned for its reliability. Despite this, the poor quality of the roads, the sporty driving style and wear of the parts lead to the fact that at some point the suspension needs repair. The most common problems and how to fix them are shown in the table below.

Toyota Camry is one of the most popular modern cars, selling in an annual circulation of 800,000 - 1,000,000 copies, making it 3-5 in the list of best-selling models year after year. This car was originally intended for sale in Japan, but the company changed its development sector and began to produce Camry for the whole world. In our country, the most massive models were Camry from the fifth to the seventh performance in the bodies of 30, 40 and 50.

The fifth generation Camry was produced between 2001 and 2006. Compared to previous generations, the car has become larger, the interior has increased. The wheelbase of the model was 2.72 cm in length, and the width also increased by 7 cm, which made it possible to slightly change the layout of the front axle shaft, placing the wheels closer to the outer corners, which helped the car to become more stable on the roadway.

The front and rear suspension schemes in the car are unchanged - independent MacPherson strut with anti-roll bars, with a double locking lever and springs. The front MacPherson strut lower arm is attached to the steering knuckle, while the anti-roll bar is attached to the lower arms.

The most unusual solution in the fifth generation was that in the front suspension scheme the pivot axle is located in front of the steering knuckle, which makes it possible to better stabilize the car when driving in a straight line. The structure diagram of each of the two pendants includes:

support from above;
washers;
spring of a cylindrical type;
silent blocks used to attach levers, anti-roll bar;
depreciation rack;
the place of fixation of the lower arm;
spherical bushing.

The sixth generation Camry was sold from 2006 to 2011. The Camry of the 2006-2011 model received not only a new body, but a completely different chassis scheme, which became much better to cope with the road.

The front suspension is an independent McPherson link-spring suspension with an anti-roll bar, shock absorbers, coil springs and wishbones. The structure diagram of the semi-axle itself does not differ much from the previous generation, but it should be understood that the telescopic shock-absorbing struts have been improved, which made it possible to better stabilize the car body in an upright position.

The shock absorber strut, according to the user manual and the building diagrams, now consists of:

shock absorber;
compression buffer;
protective cover;
bottom spring gaskets;
upper spring plate;
support bearing;
upper support;
springs and nuts.

Repair and maintenance of the front axle shaft should be carried out every MOT or every 15-25,000 km, depending on which roads the car is traveling on.

In the rear of the car, it was no longer MacPherson strut, as in a generation earlier, but a multi-link semi-axle, consisting of two transverse and one longitudinal fixing levers, telescopic shock absorbers, coil coil springs, an anti-roll bar (SPU) and a SPU rod were used.

The seventh generation Camry began production in 2011 and ended in 2017. In this generation, the company's engineers tried to do everything in such a way as to save the future owner of the car from the "whims" of past versions of the Camry. So, the car received a longer wheelbase - 2.775 m, the front track is 1.575 m wide, while the rear track is 1.565 m.

The front axle of the car uses a MacPherson double wishbone suspension with an anti-roll bar. The front suspension scheme is exactly the same as in the previous generation, however, the materials of manufacture have become of higher quality, the levers are located at slightly different angles, and the wheels are located even closer to the outer corners, which made the car more stable on the road.

The suspension is stiffer, making the car less rolling and more stable when cornering. Suspension harshness has increased due to the use of a more powerful front stabilizer and changed settings. It is worth noting the fact that the body has become much lighter, which also improved the maneuverability of the car.

The rear suspension scheme is unchanged - a MacPherson strut is again used with two fixing levers, an anti-roll bar, two shock absorbers with coil coil springs. It is worth noting that the shock absorbers at the rear are slightly taller than the front ones.

In all the generations described above, the car is the most stable on the road, maneuverable and reliable. However, the Camry's undercarriage is often the first cause of car breakdown. So, if there is a knock when driving or a car has become worse to cope with potholes or unevenness in the road, the car should be taken to a service station for repair and diagnostics. You can watch how a particular spare part is replaced in any video on popular video hosting sites. The video describes in some detail the replacement process, which you can repeat yourself according to the proposed plan.

Summarizing all of the above, you can create a visual table of the Camry suspension scheme:

How can I contact you?

Tell me, I changed everything in the front hodovke except the silencer (candy), it seems to be alive, it does not spin and the thrust bearing! rubber? or is it still support?

+ AUTO THEME Doroshenko bushings changed go tight

+ AUTO TOPIC Doroshenko I'll try to shake it as you said!

+ AUTO TOPIC Doroshenko everything is new except for thrust bearings

Stabilizer struts and stub bushings are not dead? It is possible to work out in the stabilizer and it is already necessary to select bushings with a reduced inner diameter to clamp the stub!

Did you change the first question yourself? Diagnose the defensive midfielder with one hand, rest on the defensive midfielder with the second Altai down and up the car, so to speak, swing it in front of the car if the defensive midfielder does not hit! Jack up the car. and the assembly rig moved the rack up towards the support! If there is a backlash, this is the support of the rack!

Are vibrations possible when driving due to the silent block in the lever?

Evgeny Kusakin I don't think so! Possibly wheels or bent drive!

Please tell me I have a Camry 40, when accelerating above 135 km per hour, vibration appears in the cabin, what could be the reason ??))

They are not led from overheating, but from raw materials from China.

There was the same trouble, the brake discs were punctured (because the wheels were balanced normally) and all the rules! True, after seven thousand, it starts to appear again. It was decided to put perforated

Vadim Fatikhov Bad wheels! Most likely!

A knock on the left, barely audible like plastic on plastic, I checked the suspension, ideally, I can’t understand what is tapping. Tell me if you can.

The upper cushion does not need to be unscrewed, since on the lower support you can unscrew the stem, screw 2 nuts and it can be easily unscrewed.

555, we are sitting and Febestus is a terrible Chinese shit. I don’t know how on a Camry, I didn’t go on a Nissan and 10 thousand.

Vitaly Khomchenko has already dashed off 15,000 km while holding!

Do not touch the left and middle pillows at all?

alex alexov easy. more than once peresesovyvl these sweets. you need more yews and before pressing it, be sure to grease the fairies. do not forget to maintain the angle, 45 degrees each.

alex aleksov don't even know what.)) hammer the silent block with a sledgehammer))) and it also needs to be pressed at a certain angle. The most freezing is the press and the rest is garbage! you can, of course, press the KamAZ jack to try the lever to rest against something and drive the silent block with the stock)))))

Thank you . Another question, is there an option to rearrange the candy at home without a press?

alex alexov if you remove the right lever, the left and middle do not need to be touched!

Hello, when buying a Camry 40 2.4, I diagnosed the chassis. Himself personally pulled the left rod (mustache), which comes from the steering rack and found there is not a big backlash. There was no such thing on the right. At the service station they said that it was probably a rake. ... I do not believe. Mileage 95 thousand real. What do you think it's all the same mustache or rake. Feels like a backlash of a millimeter 3. Barely perceptible, but at the joints in the deep asphalt, there is a knock on the left. Thank you very much and the answer.

Iliya Antoshkin I also changed the front right silent block on the lever as we see in this video and the steering rack was tightened by less than half a turn, it is subject to adjustment, and everything seemed to be noticed as new

Iliya Antoshkin It's too early for a rake on such a race! go to the lift, remove the rubber boot that closes the connection between the mustache and the rail and wobble by the wheel and you will all see where the backlash is either in the rail or in the mustache!

Good day! tell me and remove the lever on the left side, there are no such problems as on the right with pillows?

Vladimir Volkov if you have your own garage, that's not a problem. Good luck with the repair if you write anything!

+ AUTO THEME Doroshenko thanks! And then today the price for a hundred was announced by 8t.r. hands from where it is necessary, there is a garage, I will find a press .. here I am collecting Old.

Vladimir Volkov there, too, the support on the box must be removed! but no big deal

maybe oil seals or rings

but it can be eliminated if the motor is warm

thank you means the motor

I am far from the first owner, Camry 2008, mileage 80,000, most likely twisted by outbid, but I do not add oil from replacement to replacement at all, although the level slightly drops by 3-4 millimeters. I drive about 10,000 a year. By the way, I sell them.

Aigerim Sarsembaeva I add 1 liter to my 300000 km from replacement to replacement!

I am the second or third owner of this car and I don’t know for sure

Aigerim Sarsembayeva Here Archi draw conclusions we have Raf4 and Camry cakes with the same engines Rafa 8 years old Camry 10 and 9 on them runs from 250,000 to 350,000 km and none of them have hemorrhoids such a machine was adequately exploited. And you have either a big run or a torn engine or a hot one.

I have a 2007 plug 155626 oil takes there are motor runs and the exhaust is not important. What is the reason you can say a.

Aigerim Sarsembayeva If you are not the owner, then perhaps the engine was warmed up and the run itself was twisted! You are one owner.

You can link where you ordered salentblocks for levers.

Nikolay Kuznetsov Sorry but ordered through the store.

ATP for the answer, I PLAN to buy a Camry, but in 2008 they have large runs of 200 mk, how much did you drive on your own? and with what mileage did you take?

SuperDeZ DeZ Working machine 2010 took a new one

What an honest run KAMRI and what else has changed.

Alexander Sanya Honestly, I don’t know we do everything ourselves!

how much does such a repair cost?

SuperDeZ DeZ Mileage 297,000 km The exhaust valve was changed once. automatic transmission has never been done. mainly consumables oil. filter. stabilizer pads .bushings

About a year ago, I changed all the struts in a circle and silent blocks in general, almost all the suspension except for the rear struts, having disassembled they showed me quite serviceable and indeed, when everything was assembled, the suspension worked super like a conveyor belt, from 06.2011 to 11.2012 and the first cold came as something began to mutter behind me - the dull sound of beating rubber on metal - without thinking for a long time, I immediately realized that these were the rear supports of the struts!

Objective: to replace the rear struts with Toyota Camry ACV40

For replacement were purchased:
1.48750-32150 Rear right shock absorber support 1463 rubles.
2. 48760-32150 Rear left shock absorber support 1466 rubles.
Total: 2929 rubles.

What I need:
1. Supports themselves 2 pieces
2. Tool kit

Kerosene for cleaning bolts and nuts

I put all the unscrewed bolts and nuts in a container with kerosene - while I work, they will be discarded - in the future, a clean thread will not cause problems when unscrewing ...
4. Jack and stand

Replacement process:
1. Car on the handbrake and shoes

2. Raise the machine slightly and loosen the nuts ...

Self-made support - fierce - mega-resistant

4. Remove the wheel
5. We go to the salon and remove the left side of the backrest - to get to the bolts securing the pillar to the body

6. Loosen the three nuts securing the strut support to the body

7. Next, unscrew the nut of the transverse stabilization strut (Link) and the brake hose from the strut body (in this position, the link cannot be pulled out, it is clamped, it is better not to do this, otherwise we will damage the thread - then it will come out easily)

Unscrew the lateral stabilization rack and brake hose

8. We unscrew the nuts of the bolts securing the strut body to the wheel hub (the head is 19 high).

9.T.K. on my car there are not original springs (a little higher), and even new ones, and there are no fittings for their compression, then you need to replace the support without removing the spring, and for this you need to compress it and fix it with something in this position, for this I used a simple but in a proven way! You need to take three synthetic ropes with a diameter of 5-7mm

Our three ropes are approximately 1.5 meters long.

10. All three ropes must be tied tightly at the base of the lower spring seat, the other ends must be threaded around the uppermost spring crown and tightened.
This must be done now because then when we squeeze the spring it is more difficult to get close to the upper rim 60% of it is pressed tightly ...
It should look like this:

11. We take the second jack if there is none, then we remove the one that lifted the car!
We put it under the wheel hub and raise the hub thereby compressing the spring of the rack, squeeze it by eye! Here, at a certain moment, our clamped stabilization stand is released and pulled out easily:

The lateral stabilization strut has been released

In such a compressed position, we tighten our ropes and begin to tie them tightly ...:
As a result, we get this:

After everything is ready, it is necessary to smoothly loosen the jack so that the spring pulls the ropes into their working restraining position!

12. Now, when the jack is loosened but not yet removed and supports the hub, we take out the bolts securing the hub to the rack with the nuts that we unscrewed earlier - the bolts are easily pulled out because the spring no longer loads them, and when the suspension was installed a year and a half ago, all the bolts and nuts were also washed with kerosene and lubricated with graphite grease! In place of one of the bolts, we insert a barb or any piece of iron with a thinner diameter!
13. We go to the salon and unscrew the three nuts that secure the strut support to the body that we previously loosened!

14. We remove the jack and the rack, together with the hub, falls through and hangs in the air. it's more convenient there ...

15.Now the task is to unscrew the stem nut on which the support is worn, for this I used a 12 meter diameter drill 1 meter long, resting it against the garage:

Thus, I unscrewed the nut when I changed the support on the right side, and this one refused to unscrew the cage along with the stem turned in the rack body, in order to defeat this, let it lie on the barrels, otherwise everything is worth it all my poor life :))! We clamp the clip in a vice and voila.

There will be no further pictures. the phone has sat down ... and my hands are frozen already an hour has passed!
Well, then we just put a new LEFT (This is important) support in the desired position with the spot outward i.e. so that the spot faces the street when the rack is installed on the car

We tighten the rod nut, checked that the grooves of the rod entered the grooves of the rack support,
we tighten without much enthusiasm so as not to crank the stock and the cage in the support

We put the stand in place in reverse chronological order, i.e. first, insert the bolts securing the support to the strut to the hub and tighten the soaked, dried and lubricated nuts - do not tighten them yet!
We put the jack under the hub and begin to raise the entire structure upward, reaching the right moment, insert the link into place, tighten the nut, but also do not tighten it - then we raise it upwards while adjusting the upper part of the rack so that the bolts fall into the holes of the body, if everything is done carefully and without haste it usually turns out the second time, as soon as the pillar support touches the body and at the same time all three support bolts fall into their holes, we tighten and tighten the nuts securing the pillar to the car body!
Next, we untie all the ropes and smoothly release the jack when the jack is completely lowered and it can be removed and the ropes are already free; we also remove and tighten all the nuts that were not tightened earlier!

Result : replacement of rear struts for Toyota Camry ACV40 produced.

Problem: extraneous sound from the front suspension when driving through small bumps in the cold season.
Let me remind you that the mileage

Well, I don't have much left, if I repair the stub bushing, ball and tip by the method of elimination.

I repeat the question: can there be a defective rack? Or can't it?

As promised, I share the reasons for the knock. Yesterday I stopped by the officials, told the whole story. The car was shaken for almost 4 hours, even the wheels were unscrewed.
As a result, only the rack was sentenced. Replaced, about the chippers of the rack hinted that they could change at the same time, but I refused. The result is silence in the car.
They gave an order, an outfit in which they deciphered everything, they say the counter was of poor quality.
And I already sinned on the ball, plus on the tip of the RT, the RT itself, although these elements were “silent” during the diagnosis.

What for the money:
1.wash 600 rubles. (body plus floor mats). Well washed - no comments.
2.Suspension diagnostics - 1200
3. road test - 600 rubles
4. replacement of the rack - 1600 rubles.
5. minus the discount as a good person (I do not know how and for what, but moved forward).
Total 3600.
I refused from similarity collapse - I will send my wife on a day off to another service - there is an action "autolady" on weekends (900 rubles for two axles).
Yes, I almost forgot the stance that malfunctioned the Sachs. One of these days I will return to the supplier of spare parts along with the work orders (well done, thank you guys - they gave out a new rack without payment, provided that after replacing the old one I will bring them with papers from the service).

Of course, there may be many reasons for which the front suspension knocks, for example, ball, stabilizer struts, stabilizer bushings, support bars, struts, and much more. This video shows several reasons for knocking on the front suspension.! SORRY FOR THE QUALITY.