Do-it-yourself suspension repair toyota camry 40

In detail: do-it-yourself Toyota Camry 40 suspension repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The main function of the suspension is to link the wheels and body parts into a single structure. Thanks to the suspension, the force that affects the wheels is transferred to the body. It includes a number of parts (shock absorbers, springs, etc.) that ensure the stability of the machine when cornering and when maneuvering, reduce body vibrations and weaken dynamic loads.

In addition, the smoothness of the ride, the comfort and safety of passengers and the driver depend on it. On cars of this model there is a rear and front MacPherson brand independent suspension.

Remember! In order for these structures to have a long service life, you need to constantly monitor the condition of the Camry 30 suspension and its other modifications.

Toyota Camry is one of the most popular cars among Russian motorists. Using the V40 as an example, consider what elements the rear suspension assembly consists of:

upper spring support;
spring;
shock absorber;
lower arm - the place of its attachment;
rubber bushings.

A similar rear suspension of a Toyota Camry V40 car with a MacPherson strut model contains longitudinal and transverse levers. In addition, Camry 40 models have stabilizers that provide lateral stability. This type of rear suspension is simple and compact, has better wheel kinematics.

This Camry V40 scheme, like other models, consists of such basic elements:

upper shock absorber support;
rack bearing;
spring socket;
a rubber cover that protects against moisture, dust, etc.;
cylindrical spring;
rebound stroke limiter;
gasket for spring;
shock absorber.

Video (click to play).

This assembly for the Camry 30 and its improved models reduces vibrations, provides a smooth ride and, together with the hydraulic brake system, increases the stability of the car, including on slippery roads.

This construct is connected to the steering knuckle, a stabilizer is also attached to it, which is responsible for lateral stability. The material for it is spring steel. The result of the operation of the lever is to reduce the roll of the car when cornering. The lever is replaced when it is impossible to repair the suspension, and an update is necessary for safe and comfortable movement.

They do it for the following reasons:

the geometry of the lever has changed as a result of deformation or mechanical damage;
excessive wear at the bushing attachment point;
failure of a ball joint or silent block and other reasons.

The rear system, like the front one, is a connecting element for the body and the wheel of the car. The question of its repair arises when there is discomfort during movement (lateral buildup, vibration, etc.). Having determined the malfunction, we proceed to repair or replace defective elements.

raise and fix the car;
remove the wheel;
install support;
loosen the shock absorber mounting bolt at the bottom;
loosen the top mounting bolts of the rack;
remove shock absorber
install a new spare part, tighten the upper bolts and put the lower connection;
remove the shock absorber;
mount the wheel
we lower the car;
so that there is no distortion of the bushings, tighten the mounting bolt at the bottom.

A rubber-metal hinge or silent block consists of two metal tubes of different diameters, between which there is an insert made of polyurethane, rubber or other durable material. Such a hinge element is the fastening material for the suspension system. With long-term operation, the silent block eventually loses its qualities due to wear and begins to knock.

Practice shows that a spare part with a polyurethane base increases the stability and controllability of a car, compared to conventional ones.

Knocking in the front suspension, why it rattles, causes and solutions
One of the signs of unsuitable silent blocks is a knock in the front suspension, which at the initial stage can be periodic. In addition to the fact that it rattles in front, the controllability of the car also decreases, the rubber wears out unevenly. To get confirmation of the alleged problems, you need to perform a number of simple steps:

place the vehicle on a level surface;
verify the integrity of the springs visually or by measuring the clearance;
shake the car to make sure that the damping is not violated.

Next, install the car on a lift, inspect for shock absorber leaks, cracks, impact marks and other damage to system elements. Using the mount, we check all bushings, connecting elements for play and wear. When carrying out diagnostics, maintenance or when performing repair work, a visual inspection of hinges, protective covers, racks, bushings, etc. is carried out. The presence of cracks, deformations and other defects requires their replacement.

Silent blocks not replaced in time can not only lead to the consequences already listed, but also require the replacement of the suspension system, and can also lead to tragic consequences.

As can be seen from the article, you can fix the problems of the rear and front suspension in a car yourself. In the event of malfunctions, they should be eliminated immediately, since your safety depends on it.

Well, finally shook up the suspension on my Camry SV40. The only thing left to do today is to break it down. I want to share my first impressions. To begin with, at first I decided to change all the shock absorbers to the Kayabovskie 33 series, gas-oil ones, since they were frankly sweating on the left side. Yes, and tortured the eternal problem of the Camry / Vista soft rear suspension. Then I thought, it’s not good to change the rack without looking at the state of the rest of the suspension parts. In short, I went to the service, on the recommendation, they said the master was good. As a result, the following scope of work was determined and carried out:
1. Replacing racks in a circle, of course with anthers and strikers.
2. Replacement of steering rods and tips.
3. Replacement of internal and external anthers drives.
4. Replacement of ball bearings.
5. Replacing the gum rear longitudinal rods. In fact, they go together with the lever in the original, but the master somehow pressed them out, pressed them in, picked them up, they did something with the turner there, in short, he assures everything will be hurt. It was too expensive to buy a lever because of the rubber band - 1400 rubles, and you also need to order it, nowhere.
6.Yes, I also replaced the rear springs with Swedish Lezenfor.

What did you get? While I didn’t drive much, I can say one thing, the car rose, it’s hard to say by how much, but by 2-3 centimeters for sure, perhaps no more. It's worth it right. pa is not pulled up, father-in-law new rear springs came teak to teak. The car has become noticeably stiffer. I used to sit down, she sagged a little, now there is zero emotion. He tried to shake her ass, it wasn’t there, he barely squeezed five centimeters! When driving on asphalt, small potholes also began to feel more noticeable, in short, the comfort became less. On the other hand, I slid down onto a gravel road with a comb, the car goes much more pleasantly, I didn’t drive really fast. In a word, the car has become tougher, higher, less comfort, but for our roads, IMHO, this is better than soft suspension and comfort. I'll drive on the highway, share my impressions about the behavior at high speeds.

The only thing that surprised me was that the master said that he made home-made mounts for brake hoses and ABS racks, I looked, everything was solidly strong, but why? There are regular mounts, today I’ll ask again, why did he do it? Maybe the hoses for the rack touched a little while driving?

P.S. I want to advise everyone who wants to raise the Camry / Vista and cure the soft suspension - put Kayabovskie racks and new springs, you are not smart with all sorts of spacers. Personally, I'm happy with the result so far. Then we'll see how it behaves with a full load, how it behaves on the track, but IMHO, according to first impressions, everything should be fine.

Yes, if anyone is interested, the price of the issue is 27800.Spare parts are all original Japanese, except for the springs and naturally shock absorbers (Japanese but not original), and even the anthers of the drives are not original, but also Japanese, they were taken in the Toyota center, they put them all, alas, I don’t remember the name of the company, the springs are Swedish.

On the wishbones, the rubber bands die quietly. The master said you’ll skate for the winter and come, we’ll change, they say after the winter they will certainly be a kirdyk. The thing is that you can’t press out the rubber bands in these levers, you can’t press them in, you have to take them with a lever, four levers cost 12,000 rubles in the Toyota center, and you also need to order them, they are not available anywhere. I don’t know if I’ll wait for spring, I won’t, but as soon as the money appears, you look and change it, for complete happiness. By the way, I did a collapse a couple of hours ago, flew a hundred, the flight is normal!

Another interesting information, I learned from the master why he made a home-made mount on the racks for brake hoses, it turns out on the Kayab racks, for some reason this mount is noticeably lower than on the original ones, and it is problematic to attach native hoses to them. Maybe the Japs had changed the hoses before me for some non-original ones? In short, HZ, this is surprising, but now it's too late to rush about. The stands themselves fit perfectly. Yes, and according to the catalog, I myself double-checked them - they are.

Cartridges in Krasnoyarsk cost about 1500, and I had collapsible racks, it’s just that when they were removed, it became clear that the rods were bent, that is, naturally curved, not like a Turkish saber, of course, but quite enough to drive the oil. In short, what would happen with cartridges. And the difference between the cost of a cartridge and a rack of 800 rubles is not critical for me. True, comrade KAMAR, who here on the forum explains the situation with Kayab racks to everyone, claims that the original front racks were installed on the SV40 in two types, some change to 334170/171 (for me), and others put cartridges about which you write. Because of this, it seems that I had a problem with fastening the brake hoses, I had to do it myself, only the cartridges fit me. So who will change the rack, keep in mind.

Damn it, live and learn, now people have enlightened that a cartridge is a full-fledged shock absorber, with a stem and everything else. In addition to the glass of the rack. Damn, I had to buy a cartridge, and there would be no brand with hose fasteners. Others, be careful, these assholes in stores can’t tell you anything, or don’t want to, the racks are more expensive than cartridges, that’s bitches, they didn’t sell what they should have. Well, it's too late now, I'll go as it is.

In order for the Toyota Camry 40 to smoothly overcome the unevenness of the road surface, a suspension is used. It has very strict requirements.

It needs to be soft enough to absorb shocks, yet be firm enough to maintain good handling, for example when cornering.

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The Toyota Camry 40 suspension is the connecting link between the wheels and the body. She has to work in a hostile environment. At the same time, the suspension fulfills a number of requirements and functions assigned to it:

provides elastic connection of wheels and body;
maintains long loadings without loss of initial properties;
minimizes vehicle vibrations;
slightly susceptible to deformation;
weakens the dynamic load on the body;
absorbs shock loads.

The above set of qualities that the front and rear MacPherson type suspensions used on the Toyota Camry 40 have allow the car owner to feel comfort and safety while driving. If the characteristics of the suspension do not suit the car owner, tuning and individual adjustment of all parameters is possible.

The official manual characterizes the front suspension as an independent MacPherson link-spring system.The layout of the suspension elements, shown in the figure below, includes the following elements:

The right shock absorber and the left one at number 6. Serve to dampen vibrations. In addition to damping vertical movements, they have the function of telescopic guides. A coil spring is installed on top of the shock absorber. Includes compression buffer and top support. Through the shock absorber, the force is transmitted to the car body.
Anti-roll bar. Connect the stabilizer bar to the shock absorber.
Spherical bearing.
Lower lever. Attached to subframe. Fastening is made using silent blocks and rubber-metal bushings.
Stabilizer bar. It has rubber bushings mounted on it. With their help, fastening to the subframe is implemented.
Rounded fist. It is connected to the shock absorber strut on one side and the lower arm on the other. Contains installed hubs. For the mobility of the structure, a double-row, angular contact bearing is used.

The disassembled shock absorber strut, which is one of the main elements of the suspension, is shown in the photo below.

Suspension Toyota Camry 40 is famous for its reliability. Despite this, the poor quality of the roads, the sporty driving style and wear of parts lead to the fact that at some point the suspension needs to be repaired. The most common problems and their solutions are shown in the table below.

The Toyota Camry is one of the most popular modern cars, selling between 800,000 and 1,000,000 units annually, making it the 3rd-5th best selling model year after year. This car was originally intended for sale in Japan, but the company changed the development sector and began to produce Camry for the whole world. In our country, Camry from the fifth to the seventh version in bodies 30, 40 and 50 became the most popular models.

The fifth generation Camry was produced between 2001 and 2006. Compared to previous generations, the car has become larger, the interior has increased. The wheelbase of the model was 2.72 cm long, while the width also increased by 7 cm, which made it possible to slightly change the layout of the front axle shaft, placing the wheels closer to the outer corners, which helped the car become more stable on the roadway.

The schemes of the front and rear suspension in the car are unchanged - independent MacPherson struts with anti-roll bars, with a double detent lever and springs. The lower arm of the front MacPherson strut is attached to the steering knuckle, while the anti-roll bar is attached to the lower arms.

The most non-standard solution in the fifth generation was that in the front suspension scheme, the kingpin axis is in front of the steering knuckle, which makes it possible to better stabilize the car in a straight line. The structure diagram of each of the two suspensions includes:

top support;
washers;
cylindrical spring;
silent blocks used for attaching levers, anti-roll bar;
shock absorber;
place of fixation of the lower arm;
spherical bushing.

The sixth generation Camry was sold from 2006 to 2011. The Camry of the 2006-2011 model received not only a new body, but a completely different chassis scheme, which became much better at handling the road.

The front suspension uses an independent MacPherson strut-spring suspension with anti-roll bar, shock absorbers, coil springs and wishbones. The structure of the axle shaft itself is not very different from the previous generation, but it should be understood that the telescopic suspension struts have been improved, which made it possible to better stabilize the car body in an upright position.

The shock absorber strut, according to the user manual and building diagrams, now consists of:

shock absorber;
compression buffer;
protective cover;
bottom spring pads;
upper plate springs;
support bearing;
top support;
springs and nuts.

Repair and maintenance of the front axle shaft should be carried out every MOT or every 15-25,000 km, depending on which roads the car is moving on.

In the rear of the car, it was no longer MacPherson, as in a generation earlier, but a multi-link semi-axle, consisting of two transverse and one longitudinal fixing lever, telescopic shock absorbers, coil springs, an anti-roll bar (SPU) and an SPU rod.

The release of the seventh generation Camry began in 2011, the release of the model ended in 2017. In this generation, the company's engineers tried to do everything in such a way as to save the future owner of the car from the "whims" of past Camry performances. So, the car received a longer wheelbase - 2.775 m, the front track is 1.575 m wide, while the rear track is 1.565 m.

As a front axle shaft, the car uses a MacPherson strut suspension with anti-roll bar. The front suspension scheme is exactly the same as in the previous generation, but the materials of manufacture have become better, the levers are located at slightly different angles, and the wheels are located even closer to the outer corners, which made the car more stable on the road.

The suspension became stiffer, which made the car less rolly and more stable in cornering. The stiffness of the suspension has been increased by using a more powerful front stabilizer and changed settings. It is worth noting the fact that the body has become much lighter, which also improved the maneuverability of the car.

The rear suspension scheme is unchanged - MacPherson strut is used again with two fixing levers, an anti-roll bar, two shock absorber struts with coil springs. It is worth noting that the depreciation drains at the rear are slightly higher in height than the front ones.

In all the generations described above, the car is as stable as possible on the road, maneuverable and reliable. However, the chassis of the Camry is often the first cause of a car breakdown. So, if there is a knock when driving or the car has become worse to cope with potholes or road irregularities, the car should be taken to a service station for repair and diagnostics. You can see how a particular spare part is being replaced in any video on popular video hosting sites. The video describes the replacement process in some detail, which you can repeat according to the proposed plan yourself.

Summing up all of the above, you can create a visual table of the Camry suspension scheme:

How can you be contacted?

Tell me, I changed everything in the front walker except for the silent (candy), it seems to be alive, there is no backlash and the thrust bearing does not spin! But on small bumps there is some kind of knock, as if it hits the heel, can it be the reason that the front silent is polyurethane, but sweetie rubber? or all the same support?

+AVTO TOPIC Doroshenko bushings changed go tight

+ AVTO TOPIC Doroshenko I'll try to shake it as you said!

+ AVTO THEME Doroshenko absolutely everything is new except for thrust bearings

Are the stabilizer links and stub bushings dead? It is possible to work out in the stabilizer and it is already necessary to select bushings with a reduced inner diameter to clamp the stub!

First question, did you change it yourself? Diagnose the oporniks with one hand rest on the opornik second Altai down up the car, so to speak, swing in front of the car if the opornik does not hit the hand! Jack up the car. and montage moved the rack up towards the support! If there is play, this is the support of the rack!

Is vibration possible during movement due to the silent block in the lever?

Evgeny Kusakin I don't think so! Maybe the wheels or the drive is bent!

Please tell me, I have a Camry 40, when accelerating above 135 km per hour, vibration appears in the cabin, what could be the reason ??))

They are not driven by overheating, but by raw meat from China

There was the same trouble, I pierced the brake discs (because the wheels are balanced normally) and everything is fine! True, after seven thousand it starts to appear again. It was decided to put perforated

Vadim Fatikhov Bad wheels! Most likely!

A knock on the left, barely audible like plastic on plastic, the suspension checked everything ideally, I can’t understand what is tapping. Tell me if you can.

You can not unscrew the upper pillow, since on the lower support you can unscrew the stem, screw 2 nuts and it can be easily unscrewed.

555, we sit and febest creepy Chinese shit. I don’t know how to drive a Camry, I didn’t even go to 10 thousand on a Nissan.

Vitaliy Khomchenko has already dashed off 15,000 km so far!

pillows left and middle should not be touched at all?

alex alexov easy. repressed these sweets more than once. you need bigger yews and be sure to lubricate the fairies before pressing. Don't forget to keep the angle at 45 degrees.

alex alexov I don’t even know what.)) hammer the silent block with a sledgehammer))) and it also needs to be pressed in at a certain angle. The most freezing is the press and the rest is garbage! you can, of course, press the KamAZ jack to try to rest the lever against something and drive the silent block with the stem)))))

Thank you . another question, candy at home without a press is there an option to rearrange it yourself?

alex alexov if you remove the right lever, you don’t need to touch the left and middle ones!

Hello, when buying a Camry 40 2.4, I performed running diagnostics. I myself personally pulled the left traction (moustache), which comes from the steering rack and found there is not much play. There was none on the right. At the service station they said that it was probably a rail. . I do not believe. Mileage 95 thousand real. Do you think it's all the same mustache or rake. It feels like a backlash of 3 millimeters. Barely perceptible, but at the joints in deep asphalt, a knock is felt on the left. Thank you very much and answer.

Iliya Antoshkin I also changed the front right silent block on the lever, which we see in this video and the steering rack was pulled up, less than half a turn, it is subject to adjustment, and everything seems to be noticed that the car has become new

Iliya Antoshkin It's too early for the rail at such a run! drive on the lift, remove the rubber boot that closes the connection of the mustache and the rail and sway the wheel and you will see where the play is either in the rail or in the mustache!

Good day! tell me and remove the lever on the left side, there are no such problems as on the right with pillows?

Vladimir Volkov if you have your own garage, then this is not a problem. Good luck with the repair if you write!

+AVTO THEME Doroshenko thank you! And today the price for a hundred was announced 8t.r. hands from where it is necessary, there is a garage, I’ll find a press .. I’m collecting information.

Vladimir Volkov there, too, the reliance on the box must be removed! but there's nothing wrong

Could it be seals or rings?

and can be eliminated if the engine is warm

thanks means warm motor

I’m far from the first owner, Camry 2008, mileage 80,000, most likely twisted by outbids, but I don’t add oil at all from replacement to replacement, though the level drops slightly by 3-4 millimeters. I pass about 10,000 a year. By the way, I sell.

Aigerim Sarsembayeva At my 300000 km I add 1 liter from replacement to replacement!

I'm the second or third owner of this car, I don't know for sure.

Aigerim Sarsembaeva Here Archi, draw conclusions, we have Rav4 and Camry cakes with the same engines Rafas 8 years old Camry 10 and 9, they run from 250,000 to 350,000 km and none of them had hemorrhoids such a machine was adequately exploited. And you either have a high mileage or a torn engine or a warm one.

I have a 2007 probek 155626 oil takes, there are engine leaks and the exhaust is not important. What is the reason can you say a.

Aigerim Sarsembayeva If you are not the owner, then perhaps the engine was warm and the mileage itself was twisted! You are the sole owner.

You can link where ordered salentbloki leverage.

Nikolai Kuznetsov Sorry, but ordered through the store.

ATP for the answer, I PLAN to buy a Camry, but in 2008 they have large mileage of 200 mk fearfully how much did you drive on yours? and with what mileage?

SuperDeZ DeZ Machine working 2010 took a new one

What an honest camry mileage and what else changed.

Alexander Sanya Honestly, I don’t know, we do everything ourselves!

How much does a service like this cost?

SuperDeZ DeZ Mileage 297,000 km changed the exhaust valve once. acp never did. mostly oil consumables. filter. stabilizer pads . bushings

About a year ago, I changed all the struts in a circle and silent blocks in general, almost the entire suspension, except for the rear supports of the struts, having disassembled them, they showed me quite serviceable, and indeed, when I assembled everything, the suspension worked super like from a conveyor, from 06.2011 to 11.2012, and then the first cold came as something began to mumble behind me — the dull sound of beating rubber on metal — without thinking for a long time, I immediately realized that these were the rear pillars!

Task: replace the rear strut mounts with Toyota Camry ACV40

Purchased to replace:
1. 48750-32150 Rear right shock absorber support 1463 rub.
2. 48760-32150 Rear left shock absorber support 1466 rubles.
Total: 2929 rubles.

What will I need:
1. Supports themselves 2 pieces
2. Tool kit

Kerosene for cleaning bolts and nuts

I put all the unscrewed bolts and nuts in a container with kerosene - while I'm fumbling they will turn off - in the future, a clean thread will not cause problems when unscrewing ...
4. Jack and stand

Replacement process:
1. The car on the handbrake and shoes

2. Slightly raised the car and loosened the nuts ...

Homemade support - fierce - mega-stable

4. Remove the wheel
5. We go into the salon and remove the left side of the back - to get to the bolts securing the rack to the body

6. Loosen the three nuts securing the strut support to the body

7. Next, unscrew the nut of the transverse stabilization strut (Link) and the brake hose from the strut body (in this position, the link cannot be pulled out, it is clamped, it is better not to do this, otherwise we will damage the thread - then it will come out easily)

We unscrew the rack of transverse stabilization and brake hose

8. We unscrew the nuts of the bolts securing the rack housing to the wheel hub (the head is 19 high), while we do not remove the bolts, and in fact they are clamped, they can only be knocked out - which is not necessary

9. T.K. on my car there are not original springs (slightly higher), and even new ones, but there are no devices for compressing them, then you need to replace the support without removing the springs, and for this you need to compress it and fix it in this position with something, for this I used a simple but in a proven way! You need to take three synthetic ropes with a diameter of 5-7mm

Our three ropes are approximately 1.5 meters long each

10. All three ropes must be tied tightly at the base of the lower spring seat, the other ends must be threaded around the uppermost crown of the spring and tightened.
This must be done now. then when we compress the spring, it is more difficult to get close to the upper crown, 60% of it is pressed tightly ...
It should look like this:

11. We take the second jack, if there is none, then we remove the one that raised the car!
We put it under the wheel hub and raise the hub thereby compressing the rack spring, compress by eye! Here, at a certain moment, our clamped stabilization strut is released and pulled out easily:

Released the strut of the transverse stabilization

In such a compressed position, we tighten our ropes and begin to tie tightly tightly ...:
As a result, we get this:

Once you're done, gently loosen the jack so that the spring pulls the ropes into their working restraint position!

12. Now, when the jack is loosened but not yet removed and supports the hub, we take out the bolts securing the hub to the rack of the nuts that we unscrewed earlier — the bolts are pulled out easily because the spring no longer loads them, and even when mounting the suspension a year and a half ago, all the bolts and nuts were also washed with kerosene and lubricated with graphite grease! In place of one of the bolts, we insert a beard or any piece of iron with a thinner diameter!
13. We go into the salon and unscrew the three nuts that secure the strut support to the body that we previously loosened!

14. We remove the jack and the rack, together with the hub, fails and hangs in the air to keep it on longitudinal and transverse rods, take out the rack and drag it to the garage on the workbench. it's more convenient...

15.Now the task is to unscrew the nut of the stem on which the support is dressed, for this I used a drill with a diameter of 12, 1 meter long, resting it in the garage:

Thus, I unscrewed the nut when I changed the support on the right side, and this clip refused to unscrew, along with the rod, turned in the rack body, in order to defeat this, let it lie down on the barrels, otherwise everything costs and costs the whole poor life :))! We clamp the clip in a vise and voila.

Further pictures will not be. sat down phone … yes, and the hands are frozen already all the same, an hour has passed!
Well, then everything just puts a new LEFT (This is important) support in the desired position with the spot outward, i.e. so that the spot faces the street when the rack is installed on the car

We tighten the rod nut, checked that the grooves of the rod entered the grooves of the rack support,
tighten without much enthusiasm so as not to turn the stem and clip in the support

We put the rack in place in reverse chronological order, i.e. first we insert the bolts securing the rack support to the hub and tighten the soaked dried and lubricated nuts - without tightening them yet!
We put the jack under the hub and begin to lift the entire structure upwards, having reached the right moment, insert the link into place, tighten the nut but also do not tighten it - then we lift it up while adjusting the upper part of the rack so that the bolts fall into the holes of the body, if everything is done carefully and slowly it usually turns out the second time, as soon as the strut support touches the body and at the same time all three support bolts get into their holes, we twist and tighten the nuts securing the strut pore to the car body!
Next, we untie all the ropes and smoothly release the jack, when the jack is completely lowered and it can be removed and the ropes are already free, we also remove them and tighten all the nuts that were not tightened earlier!

Result : rear strut replacement for Toyota Camry ACV40 produced.

Problem: extraneous sound from the front suspension when driving through small bumps in the cold season.
Let me remind you that the mileage

Well, I have a little left, if I repair it by the method of elimination - the stub bushing, ball and tip.

I repeat the question: maybe a defective rack? Or can't?

As promised, I share the reasons for the knock. Yesterday I went to the official, told the whole story. The car was shaken for almost 4 hours, even the wheels were unscrewed.
The result - only the rack was sentenced. They replaced it, they hinted about the fenders that it could be changed at the same time, but I refused. The result is silence in the car.
They gave an order-outfit in which everything was deciphered, they say the stand was of poor quality.
And I already sinned on the ball, plus on the tip of the RT, the RT itself, although these elements were “silent” during the diagnosis.

What about money:
1. washing 600 rub. (body plus floor mats). Well washed - no comments.
2. suspension diagnostics - 1200
3. road test - 600 rubles
4. replacement of the rack - 1600 rubles.
5. minus a discount as a good person (I don’t know how and for what, but they moved).
Total 3600.
I refused the similarity collapse - I will send my wife on a day off to another service - there is a “car lady” action on weekends (900 rubles for two axles).
Yes, I almost forgot, the rack that failed the “Sachs”. One of these days I’ll return it to the supplier of spare parts along with work orders (well done! Thanks guys - they gave me a new rack without payment, provided that after replacing the old one I’ll bring them with papers from the service).

Of course, there can be many reasons for which the front suspension knocks, for example, ball, stabilizer struts, stabilizer bushings, support bars, struts, and much more. This video shows several reasons for knocking in the front suspension.! SORRY FOR THE QUALITY.