DIY cellar repair

In detail: do-it-yourself cellar repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Good day to everyone! There is a problem. The old cellar needs to be renovated. The groundwater level is about 8 m, the depth of the cellar is 3 m. The floor is earthen, the walls are self-made concrete reinforced in poor condition, with places of destruction and protruding rusty reinforcement. The ceiling is in the same condition. What I think: treat the walls and ceiling with cold-applied bitumen-polymer mastic, fill the floor with concrete with waterproofing additives (with reinforcement, probably), then plaster the walls. Is it correct? And another question: you can add similar additives to the plaster (Aquatron, Hydrotex, etc.)

Easy wrote:
to process walls and ceilings with bitumen-polymer mastic of cold application

Not properly. This mastic does not hold negative backing at all. Or do you not want the water to leave the cellar?
The walls must be plastered with a special plaster based on stress cement - and it is better to buy ready-made plaster right away, because the sand is also special there. Pour the screed onto the floor. All this should be done on a grid fixed to the walls and floor. IMHO.

the floor can be left without concreting if there is no water

I have a 7x9 brick house, before the basement was filled by 1.7 m (only 2.3 m). I solved this problem. It's been three years since I've had a bath there (the room shouldn't be lost) and there is no water at all.

Dug the house to a depth of 2.40 Material used: two scrap, two shovels, two Tajiks.
Glued hydroisol on tar. Used material: tar, waterproofing, blowtorch (it is better to perform this operation yourself, without Tajiks).
Buried the house Material used: see item 1.
Inside, everything was done as Serg said. Used material: reinforcing mesh cell 5x5, gutter (putty on the basis of stress cement IMHO makes "Prospectors"), cement mixture (for screed), tiles and glue for it.
The old floor was gutted everywhere, especially the lower corners. Then the grid. In the future shower room, dressing room and rest room, I laid penofol, then a mesh and plastic pipes (for heating). Screed about 5 cm, then tiles. Everything works for 5 points. There has been no water for 3 years, this spring, too, nothing. Let's see what happens next.
Previously, I was also skeptical about the "bath in the basement", now I understand the advantages. One minus due to the lack of windows, sometimes we sit up with friends until the morning.

Video (click to play).

Easy wrote:
And another question: you can add similar additives to the plaster (Aquatron, Hydrotex, etc.)

It is possible, but better ready-made plasters based on stress cement. And from the inside, bituminous mastics are not needed, a film will form, then it will fall off. Outside, it's a different matter, the pressure of the soil and water will press this bituminous film.

In most cases, repairing a cellar is as difficult as building a new one. As a rule, this is due to the fact that the owner of the storage facility either does not know at all how the cellar was built, or the construction took many years and many moments were simply forgotten. The design features of the operated cellar can be found out only after its main parts have been dug up and disassembled.

Usually, the repair of cellars is associated with the installation of a new waterproofing layer. If anything, this is the most common problem that suburban homeowners face. Whenever possible, all new waterproofing work should be carried out on the outside of the walls, because internal insulation is much less effective.

In addition to waterproofing, due to the constant exposure to moisture and soil, the walls and floor of the cellar can collapse, which also need to be systematically repaired.If there are noticeable cracks and holes in the wall, they should be promptly covered with cement mortar. If everything is in order with the walls, however, they are constantly moistened or damp, then this means that moisture has penetrated into the material from the inside. During winter frosts, this situation is fraught with the destruction of the wall material.

The waterproofing layer often needs to be repaired, because it is affected by the most serious forces - sedimentary and groundwater. That is why repairs of this type are becoming the main issue in carrying out all work related to the arrangement or restoration of the cellar.

The waterproofing coating must be repaired with the same type of material.

The first step is a complete survey of the premises. It is necessary to independently determine the nature and principle of the insulation device, which was made earlier. It is worth noting that the new waterproofing layer must correspond to the old one, not only for its intended purpose, but also for the type of materials used. For example, if earlier waterproofing was used in the form of rolled roofing material treated with bitumen mastic, then for the construction of a new waterproofing layer it is also necessary to use roll insulators fastened to bituminous insulating solutions. In cases where the homogeneity of materials is disturbed, the protective characteristics of the coating are reduced.

Once you determine the type of waterproofing layer in the cellar, the room must be thoroughly dried. Brick or block masonry used for walls must be plastered and trowelled to a smooth surface. The floor should also be leveled with cement mortar (it is better to choose a mortar with cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 3). In a dry room, it is required to glue a roll insulator in several layers, fastening it with bituminous compounds.

The waterproofing sheets are fixed with a hot bitumen insulating compound on the previously primed surfaces. Rolls should be glued from bottom to top. It is recommended to smooth the canvas with a bar. The waterproofing layer created in this way must be protected with thin brickwork (the so-called "pressure wall"). The final finishing of the wall is done with cement plaster and lime whitewash.

If leaks are found in the walls of your cellar, then the first step is to embroider the cracks to a greater depth (up to 50 mm), clean them from dirt and chipped concrete. After that, the crack must be repaired with a cement mortar prepared in advance (it is recommended to use cement grade M-400), adding "liquid glass" to it. The resulting solution must be rubbed into the crack with your own hands in several layers until the wall has a uniform surface. All work with cement mortar must be carried out with gloves.

Repair of cellars, as a rule, involves the arrangement of a blind area and the layout of the site around the underground room. This approach allows you to divert sedimentary water and top water from the cellar. The blind area should be as wide as possible (up to 120-150 mm) and have a slight slope away from the cellar.

It is necessary to sequentially disassemble and renew the destroyed sections of the old blind area. In the process of repairing defects such as cracks, cement mortar or heated bitumen mastic should be used. Particular attention should be paid to the tightness of the joining of the blind area slabs to each other (if it is not monolithic) and to the material of the walls of the cellar.

Blind area device options.

If asbestos-cement pipes were installed in the cellar to provide ventilation, then most likely they have become unusable. This will be very noticeable if condensation begins to accumulate in the cellar and it becomes damp.

In this case, the pipes are completely removed, and new ventilation ducts are installed in their place.If before there was one pipe, then during the repair it is recommended to install two: supply and exhaust. The supply pipe is mounted so that its lower part is located near the cellar floor. In turn, the lower part of the chimney should be located under the ceiling of the cellar in order to more efficiently remove moist and warm air from the room.

If you have a large cellar, then you should think about a forced ventilation device. Today, there are a huge number of devices on the market that will help maintain a normal microclimate inside the cellar throughout the year.

If in the area around the cellar and above it there is a subsidence of soil, this is usually directly related to the influence of sedimentary or groundwater.

First of all, in those places that have been damaged, soil is dug out, after which the formed space is backfilled. It is recommended to add sand and fine gravel to the soil backfill. Backfilling is carried out in layers with compaction and ramming of each layer.

In order to completely prevent a possible violation of the integrity of the surface around the cellar in the future, soil strengthening is carried out in advance by planting grass and small shrubs. Of course, this will not be a panacea, but to some level it will reduce the likelihood of subsequent destruction associated with soil subsidence.

If the cellar was built in dense clay soil, then it can be systematically exposed to water. Dense soil layers retain sedimentary moisture, preventing it from quickly leaving.

This most "stagnant" water is sometimes the main reason for the formation of dampness in an underground room. Its active appearance is observed in those places where loose soil layers that pass and filter sedimentary moisture are surrounded by dense layers (loam, clay, marls).

To reduce the likelihood of such flooding, it is required to make a drainage canal that can provide prompt drainage of sedimentary water. You should also eliminate moisture and disturbed soil structure.

Clay soil does not allow water to pass through well.

An excellent solution would be to create a full-fledged drainage system, but such activities are quite costly, so they are not chosen so often as a solution to the problem.

By and large, all repair work in the cellar can be done by hand. However, if the cellar is located under the house and the waterproofing was broken, then you will have to make your way to the outer walls, and only professional builders can handle this work.

Chief editor of the site, civil engineer. Graduated from SibSTRIN in 1994, since then he has worked for more than 14 years in construction companies, after which he started his own business. The owner of a company engaged in suburban construction.

In most cases, repairing walls in a cellar is as difficult to carry out as building a new one. Usually, this is due to the fact that the owner of the cellar does not know how it was built, since this process took place many years ago. The design features of your cellar can be found out after all its main parts have been disassembled and dug up.

As a rule, do-it-yourself repair of walls in a cellar is associated with a waterproofing layer. Either way, this is the most common problem that suburban homeowners have to face. If possible, all new waterproofing work should be done from the outside of the walls, as internal waterproofing is not as effective.

Due to the constant exposure to moisture and soil pressure, in addition to waterproofing, the walls of the cellar can collapse, which require systematic repair. If there are noticeable holes and cracks in the wall, it is important to cover them up in time with cement mortar. If everything is fine with them, but they are constantly damp or moist, then this means that moisture has penetrated into the material from the inside.This situation during winter frosts can lead to the destruction of the walls.

Often the waterproofing layer needs to be repaired, since it is influenced by serious forces - ground and sedimentary waters. That is why repair of this type becomes the main issue in the performance of all work that is associated with the restoration or arrangement of the cellar.

First of all, it is necessary to inspect the premises, identifying the principle and nature of the waterproofing device. At the same time, the new waterproofing layer must correspond to the old one, both for its intended purpose and for the materials used. For example, if earlier waterproofing was used for walls (roofing material with bituminous mastic), then for a new insulating layer, roll insulators with fastening to bituminous solutions should also be used. If the homogeneity of the materials has been violated, then the coating reduces its protective characteristics.

When you determine the type of waterproofing for the cellar, the room must be thoroughly dried. Block or masonry that is used for walls must be trowelled and plastered to a smooth surface. Also, the floor must be leveled with cement mortar (adhere to the proportions of cement and sand 1: 3). In a dried cellar, you need to glue a roll-up waterproofer in several layers, fastening it with bituminous compounds.

The waterproofing layer created in this way must be protected with thin brickwork. The final finishing of the cellar wall is carried out with lime whitewash and cement plaster.If leaks are found in the walls of your cellar, then it is necessary to expand the cracks to a great depth (up to 50 mm), cleaning them from the broken concrete and dirt. After that, the crack is sealed with a cement mortar prepared in advance (it is best to use cement of the M-400 brand). It is good if you add "liquid glass" to it. The solution is required to independently rub into the crack of the wall in several layers until it receives a uniform surface. Work performed with cement mortar must be carried out with gloves.

Attention! Usually, the repair of cellars involves the construction of a blind area, as well as the layout of the site next to the underground room. Thanks to this approach, it is possible to divert upper water and sedimentary water from the structure of the cellar. The blind area should be wide and have a slight slope (in the direction from the cellar).It is important to sequentially disassemble and renew the sections of the old blind area, which is subject to destruction. During the elimination of defects such as cracks, it is worth using heated bitumen mastic or cement mortar. Pay special attention to the tightness of the joining of the slabs to each other (unless, of course, the blind area slab is monolithic), as well as to the materials of the walls.Settlement problemsIn the event that a subsidence of soil is traced on the land plot next to the cellar, then, as a rule, this is due to the influence of ground or sedimentary waters.First of all, for those places that have been damaged, soil is dug up, and then the space is backfilled, but with the addition of fine gravel and sand. Backfilling should be done in layers with tamping and compaction of each of them.To completely prevent the violation of the integrity of the surface next to the cellar, pre-strengthen the soil by planting small shrubs and grass. Of course, this will not be a panacea, but the likelihood of subsequent destruction through soil subsidence will be less.Groundwater in clay soilIf your cellar is built in dense clay soil, then it is regularly exposed to the negative effects of water.Dense soil layers retain sedimentary moisture, preventing it from quickly leaving.

Diagram of the ventilation device in the cellar.

Correctly arranged ventilation should consist of 2 pipes (for air supply and air extraction). If it is technically not possible to install 2 pipes, put one, but two-channel, with wind catcher. Pipes are made with a diameter depending on the area of the cellar from thick boards. They are tightly fitted and hammered together. Each pipe is equipped with a valve and a damper, with the help of which air exchange and temperature and humidity conditions are regulated.

The humidity in the cellar, if desired, can be increased or decreased. To raise it, put a box of wet sand inside or sprinkle wet sawdust on the floor. For lowering, arrange ventilation and install a box inside that contains coarse salt, charcoal or quicklime, which have the ability to absorb water.

Condensate formation diagram.

The presence of condensation in the cellar indicates insufficient insulation, especially from the side of the ceiling. In this case, the repair will consist of insulation (expanded clay, forest moss or brick battle, which is pre-sieved). It is these materials that can quickly absorb moisture and at the same time dry quickly.

Sometimes, along with the overlap, it is necessary to insulate the walls, starting the process with waterproofing. To drain condensate, umbrellas made of polyethylene film, galvanized iron or plastic are used. Arrange the structure so that condensate flows down special grooves into a bucket or pit.

During the renovation process, you can tile the cellar. It's not difficult at all, and everyone can do it themselves. It is only necessary to precisely observe the proportions when preparing a cement-sand mortar: 1: 3 - for tiles, smooth from the inside out, and 1: 4 - for embossed tiles.

The cement must be at least 400 grade and fresh (no more than six months from the date of manufacture), and the sand must be clean (washed). After laying the tiles, the joints are filled with an aqueous solution of cement (0.5: 1).

In order to qualitatively repair the cellar, the floor and walls can be made of waterproof concrete.

Scheme for the preparation of concrete solution.

The quality of this material directly depends on the amount of voids and pores formed. The water resistance of concrete is greatly influenced by the ratio of water to cement, as well as the volume of gravel in the mixture. In addition, the sand should be of medium grain size. The use of high-quality cement is not at all necessary. Enough "300" or "400", but to be freshly made. The ratio of sand, cement and gravel in waterproof concrete should be 1: 1: 4.

Concrete is laid continuously, so the formwork is placed over the entire cellar at once. Performing masonry with a thickness of 10-38 cm, even in individual construction, waterproof and dense concrete is obtained. To speed up the hardening, the concrete is covered tightly with plastic wrap.It is possible to increase the water resistance during repairs by rubbing and compacting the fresh concrete layer.

Such plaster will become one with the masonry and will not flake off after the repair is completed. For grouting with a trowel or metal spatula, the solution is kneaded in a 1: 1 ratio. Iron plaster is obtained by sprinkling a fresh mortar with dry cement. After it is saturated with water, it is smoothed out with a trowel. Such plaster has increased water insulation and significantly improves the quality of the repair.

If the cellar is built in dense clay soil, melt and atmospheric waters will flood it. And this is a direct cause of dampness and violation of food storage conditions.

In order for the cellar to stop flooding, the following repairs are necessary: construction of a ditch to drain melt and atmospheric water; ring drainage with water discharge into low places or a specially dug well. A wide blind area and sufficient roof overhangs will be a good addition.

Every year, even without carrying out repairs, the cellar must be thoroughly washed, cleaned and disinfected. The easiest way to disinfect is lime whitewash with the addition of vitriol (10%). It is better to take the solution freshly prepared. In hard-to-reach places of the cellar, a method of spraying with potassium permanganate or tobacco broth is used. Fumigation with sulfur gives a good effect.Charcoal is heated, a frying pan is placed on them and sulfur is poured (50 g per 1 m³). Leave the cellar closed for 2-3 days, after which it is ventilated. Image - DIY cellar repair

Features of the design of the cellar.

Insects, mold, putrefactive fungi do not tolerate slaked lime vapors. Quicklime is poured into a barrel and filled with water. After that, they very quickly leave the cellar, tightly closing the doors. The premises are not opened within 1-2 days. After that, ventilate. This procedure is repeated 2-3 times. You need to be very careful, as lime fumes are harmful to human health.

Collapsible racks, bins, shelves are removed and washed with soapy hot water with the addition of soda. Then dry thoroughly. The walls of the cellar can be washed with a solution of vitriol or potassium alum. They are applied with a brush. To achieve a positive effect, the treatment is repeated at least 3 times. If the floor is not being repaired and it remains earthen, it is advisable to sprinkle it with fluffy lime.

If the disinfection procedures did not work and the fungus nevertheless started, it is necessary to completely repair the wooden structures. To do this, sawed out infected areas and healthy-looking wood around the affected area. The extracted tree is burned. All other structures are treated with special compounds.

In places where wooden parts adjoin stone walls, floors, foundations, they are burned out with a gas burner or blowtorch. At the same time, fire safety is strictly observed. 20 cm of earthen soil is removed and removed from the cellar, the cleaned places are spilled with vitriol and sprinkled with sand. Then whitewash twice with lime.

In order not to bring fungal spores into the cellar during construction or repairs, you can not use used building materials. It is necessary to use only healthy and dry wood, having previously treated it with an antiseptic solution.

The process of repairing, processing and disinfecting the cellar is completed no later than a month before laying the products..Many car owners have a garage with a basement. Sometimes it also has to be repaired.In this version, it is possible to make this room more comfortable and practical, by properly equipping it, you can perfectly save food for a long time. The decoration of the basement in the garage is done according to certain principles, here you just need to take into account some details and choose the right materials.In this article we will tell you how to finish the cellar in the garage.You can also watch photos and videos and then make a choice of the right material. A cellar inside a garage is best equipped during the construction phase. Then there is an opportunity to do all the work better.

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All work can be done entirely by hand and therefore the price will not be high and will be limited by the cost of materials. Let's take a direct look at how to equip a cellar under the garage.It is imperative to protect against moisture penetration by making high-quality waterproofing of the basement and garage. Otherwise, you will have to face a significant problem - how to dry the garage, especially in spring and autumn. With reliable waterproofing, this problem can be avoided.Ventilation scheme in the cellarAttention: When arranging a cellar in a garage, an effective ventilation system must be installed. A constant supply of fresh air is very important for food stored for a long time in the basement.Competent organization of ventilation will allow you to remove excess moisture from the room in a timely manner. Combined garage ventilation is the most efficient. It combines a natural and mechanical way of air exchange.
So:

The cellar in the garage must be well insulated. Thermal insulation of the basement will allow to avoid condensation in the summer, and to maintain a positive temperature in the room in winter and significantly reduce heat loss.

Attention: It is very important that not only the walls but also the ceiling are insulated in the basement.

Arrangement of the cellar in the garage, taking into account the above principles, will make this room reliably protected and well ventilated. By following these recommendations when preparing the room, you will be able to ensure the maintenance of normal temperature and humidity conditions in the cellar, which will allow you to have fresh vegetables on the table during all cold months.

To build a dry garage and cellar, you need to carefully select materials:Attention: The most stringent requirements are imposed on the materials used in the construction of the garage, if in the future there is a high probability of dampness in the basement.It is better to start building a cellar in the summer, at which time it is unlikely that the prepared foundation pit will be flooded with groundwater. Usually, a pit is dug one and a half meter, but the depth can vary depending on the wishes of the owner.Overlapping the cellar in the garage is quite an important point, because there will be a rather large area and cold can penetrate through it.
Overlapping the basement in the garage is done as follows:Ceiling insulation scheme in the cellar

We make insulation from moisture penetration. To do this, it is worthwhile to warm up the bitumen and then simply smear the surface of the ceiling twice;

After that, the ceiling and the hatch to the basement are insulated. For this, glass wool or foam is used;

Attention: Rodents can start in the foam. Therefore, if you prefer this material, then you should not use its thickness over five cm;

After applying the insulation, we will need to make the facing of the plane. For this, you can use any facing material. Some simply apply a layer of plaster. There is only one moment here. Plastering of such a plane is done with the application of a construction mesh. Otherwise, it will disappear rather quickly.

Here it is necessary not only to choose the right material, but also to fix it correctly. Indeed, moisture penetration is most likely from this part of the room.
The room itself may suffer from this:Cellar floor arrangement scheme

First you need to level and properly compact the soil on the cellar floor.

Then on the bottom it is necessary to lay a sand pillow in layers. When pouring, each layer must be well tamped and moistened, but not watered with abundant water. The sand should be coarse.

Note: It can be tamped best, and it fits well into dense layers.To strengthen the bottom, crushed stone, gravel or brick breakage is laid between layers of sand.

The floor in the basement can be made of earth with a clay castle, concreted or made of wood.

The most environmentally friendly and most affordable is the clay floor. Its laying is done in layers in two steps, first a layer of clay 15 cm thick is poured, after which two layers of roofing material are placed on it for waterproofing and covered with another layer of mint clay, which is carefully tamped.

If the option of installing a clay floor is chosen, then it is worth considering that all clay layers must dry completely before laying a clean plank floor.

The device of the concrete floor in the basement allows you to protect it from soil moisture and pests, as well as to increase the comfort of its operation. When making a concrete screed, a reinforcing lattice must be laid, which makes the base stronger and more resistant to various types of influences.

After pouring the concrete, smooth the surface to be concreted with a flat board placed on the edge.

After pouring, the concrete must be allowed to dry completely. The process of concreting the floor in the basement is quite laborious and costly, but the result obtained is considered the most effective.

Attention: If the groundwater level is low enough, then an unpaved floor can be made in the cellar.In this case, a sand and gravel pad should be laid on the base and waterproofing should be provided. And even if these recommendations are followed, a storage with an unpaved floor will not be particularly reliable.

Construction of a brick cellar

For this purpose, you can also use cinder blocks and expanded clay concrete blocks - that is, all options for concrete products with a light filler are suitable. Do not only use aerated concrete options!
Perhaps for someone it is much easier to put the formwork, and pour such walls of monolithic concrete that we see in the picture. This option, in general, as they say, "for centuries." Why not? Everyone chooses for himself what is more convenient for him. In any case, when performing masonry and concrete work, antifreeze and waterproof mortar additives must be used.

And, of course, do not forget about vertical external waterproofing. If the pit for the cellar is dug in dense soil and has the correct geometry, before starting masonry or concrete work, you can cover not only the bottom with roll-up waterproofing material, but also the walls to the very top.
If you do this with an overlap, and glue the edges of the canvases together, you get excellent protection for the entire structure. If the walls of the pit are sloping and allow you to approach the walls of the basement, you can even plaster them from the outside, even coat them with bitumen mastic and paste over with the same roofing material.

Now, as for the walls, they can be erected from any structural material, but taking into account its constant interaction with the ground. The priority is again solid clay brick, since it may well be second-hand. Buying a new brick will be twice as expensive as, for example, taking blocks of polystyrene concrete.

In this case, by the way, the walls will be not only cheaper, but, given the minimum block thickness of 300 mm, they are also thicker and, accordingly, warmer. And this is very important even for areas with deep enough soil freezing.

For this purpose, you can also use cinder blocks and expanded clay concrete blocks - that is, all options for concrete products with a light filler are suitable. Do not only use aerated concrete options!
Perhaps for someone it is much easier to put the formwork, and pour such walls of monolithic concrete that we see in the picture. This option, in general, as they say, "for centuries." Why not? Everyone chooses for himself what is more convenient for him. In any case, when performing masonry and concrete work, antifreeze and waterproof mortar additives must be used.

And, of course, do not forget about vertical external waterproofing. If the pit for the cellar is dug in dense soil and has the correct geometry, before starting masonry or concrete work, you can cover not only the bottom with roll-up waterproofing material, but also the walls to the very top.
If you do this with an overlap, and glue the edges of the canvases together, you get excellent protection for the entire structure. If the walls of the pit are sloping and allow you to approach the walls of the basement, you can even plaster them from the outside, even coat them with bitumen mastic and paste over with the same roofing material.

Video (click to play).

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