DIY submersible centrifugal pump repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of submersible centrifugal pumps from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

If you are in a remote area and are going to harvest a record harvest of vegetables this year or connect a moonshine still to get long-awaited products, then the breakdown of the only submersible pump for water intake will have disastrous consequences for you. Therefore, it is useful to know how to eliminate malfunctions, preventive measures to prevent them, how to repair submersible pumps.

In most cases, the repair of submersible pumps is required if their owners do not conduct regular preventive inspections. This leads to the fact that the pump mechanism for wells becomes clogged with dirt, the fasteners in the device body and the connection points of the outlet hoses are loosened, and water enters the engine.

The domestic industry produces a large number of centrifugal-type water pumps of various brands. These include submersible pumps of the domestic manufacturer "Dzhileks Vodomet" and "Whirlwind", the Chinese model "Oasis".

Rice. 1 Pumping equipment "Dzhileks"

Before disassembling and repairing the Jileks submersible pump with your own hands, you first need to make sure that there is electricity.

When the device does not turn on, the repair of the Jileks submersible pump begins by removing it from a rod or suspension mount in the well, then carrying out its test run, checking the wiring. If the impeller does not rotate, check the winding with a multimeter. In case of serviceability of the windings, they begin to disassemble the borehole pump. The reason for the shutdown may be a clogging of the impeller with sand or dirt.

Video (click to play).

Fig. 2 Disassembled submersible pump for Jileks wells

The parsing process begins with unscrewing the perforated filter at the inlet, which protects the device from silting and sand ingress.
All washers, discs and impeller with impeller are removed from the electric motor shaft in order. To dismantle the impeller, you will need to remove a large number of parts (about 20), therefore, when disassembling them, they should be laid out on a hard surface in the same order.
Remove the engine. It is held in the body with a tight retaining ring; you can use a hammer or mallet to remove it. By blows to the engine, it is displaced down, then returned back. After several repetitions, the retaining ring is pushed off and then removed with a screwdriver.
Next, the wiring is disconnected, the cover of the engine compartment is opened and it is removed from the pump housing.
After complete disassembly of the device, you can clean and rinse the impeller, all parts and the body from the inside.

Repair of pumps of this type can be considered on the example of the common model "Kid". If the pump has a short life and its parts are not worn out, the following malfunctions may occur with the device.

The electric pump is not working. In this case, first of all, it checks the supply voltage, if everything is normal, you should check (ring) the winding with a multimeter.

The most common malfunction of vibration pumps is a short circuit in the winding that occurs when operating in idle mode - the submersible pump does not work at the same time. It is not uncommon for a short circuit in the winding to be caused by water entering the motor. As a result of overheating of the winding, the insulation of the copper wires melts, leading to their contact.It is possible to restore the operation of the pump only by rewinding the winding, which is difficult to do not only at home, but also in a repair shop due to the cost of work that is incomparable with the price of the submersible pump itself.

Vibration problems. Many malfunctions of vibration pumps are associated with their operating mode. Vibration often looses or loosen the fastening bolts that connect the body parts of the device. Unscrewing the connections on the check valve retainer can cause the pump to malfunction and malfunction, in which case the nut must be tightened and locked.

Since a domestic manufacturer produces fastening bolts from materials prone to rust, it is recommended to replace all pump fasteners with stainless steel products immediately after purchase. Additionally, you can use a second nut (lock nut), spring or toothed washers, self-locking nuts. This will greatly simplify the assembly and disassembly of the device during maintenance work.

Quite often, the piston mounting nut is loosened if it has not been disassembled - this can lead to a malfunction of the pump in the form of ineffective pumping of water (low head) and increased vibration. In this case, the nuts must also be tightened and locked.

Rice. 4 Vibration pump disassembled

In order to avoid the constant loosening of the nuts in the vibration pump, you can resort to the method of deforming the threads on the bolts - this will prevent spontaneous loosening. This can be done using a sharp core, damaging the thread at the junction of the nut with the bolt.

When disassembling the pump, the epoxy vibration damper may peel off. The malfunction can be eliminated by introducing a small amount of sealant into the peeling site.

Clogging. At the same time, the pump does not work or pumps water with a small pressure. You will need to remove the device from the water intake tank, disassemble and clean the case from dirt and sand.

The main reason for the failure of borehole pumps is untimely prevention. In this case, the working mechanism of submersible devices is exposed to silting and clogging with sand; in vibration pumps, the fasteners of the body and internal parts are loosened. When the electric pump does not work, first of all it is necessary to check its winding - if there is an interturn short circuit or the winding "rings" to the housing, then the pump cannot be repaired independently, and rewinding the winding in a specialized workshop will cost much more than the cost of the device itself. In this case, all further manipulations with the device do not make sense, it is necessary to collect money for a new deep electric pump. In all other situations, disassembling the pump with your own hands, cleaning its housing and impeller, setting the exact position of the piston in the vibration model will help eliminate almost all malfunctions.

We advise you to read: What to do if the pump falls into the well

Without submersible pumps, not a single well will function properly. This very robust-looking device really is, and is distinguished by its reliability and duration of operation without emergencies.

Connected submersible pump ready to be lowered into the well

Failure of submersible pumps is an extremely rare occurrence (of course - with proper operation). But if it happens, then timely repair of deep-well pumps is necessary in order to avoid additional, sometimes more serious, problems in the water supply system from the well. Fortunately, you can make such repairs yourself.

Due to the fact that the pumping device constantly interacts with water, it is constantly influenced by various negative factors. Fortunately, such negative factors rarely lead to lightning-fast breakdowns, usually the pump's performance is disrupted gradually, gradually and noticeably for the exploiters.

And this means that if small defects are found, it is not necessary to radically replace the deep-well pump, since you can do the repair yourself. By the way, replacing a submersible pump with minor breakdowns is practically never carried out at all. Submersible pumps are even easier to repair, including by hand, than submersible pumps.

In the overwhelming majority of cases of breakdowns of deep-well pumps, it is the magnet of the pumping device that fails. Such a breakdown is most often observed in submersible pumps of the "Sprut" and "Aquarius" brands. Unfortunately, in this case, do-it-yourself repairs will not work, since the equipment for repairing the pump magnet is available only at specialized enterprises. In such a situation, the pump must immediately be taken for repair to specialists..

Another thing is extraneous noise when the pumping device is running. Here we are already talking about a breakdown of a mechanical nature. In the overwhelming majority of cases, mechanical damage can be eliminated by hand.

The first step in case of extraneous noise is to disassemble the pumping device for parts. In cases where noises are heard from pumps of the "Sprut" or "Aquarius" brand, it is necessary first of all to check the electrical system of the pump, which includes both the engine itself and the automation system.

Subsurface pump with connected hose

Pumps of the brand "Sprut" and "Aquarius" have breakdowns most often in these systems, which, however, can be repaired quite simply with your own hands. Among other problems that often arise with pumps of the brand "Sprut" and "Aquarius" are breakdowns of the time relay and the protection system against short circuits or dry running.

The reasons for such breakdowns can be gradual blockages of the internal pumping system with foreign objects from the well soil. In addition, the operation of the pump in dry mode can also become a serious problem, since at such a "stroke" the oil quickly runs out, which leads to uneven and uneven operation of the internal mechanisms of the pump.

In such a situation, over time, the parts undergo deformation, up to the impossibility of repairing in principle. That is why any pumping device, especially popular in the CIS brands "Aquarius" and "Sprut", must undergo constant diagnostics for internal problems, preferably by specialists.

The rarest reasons for the failure of a pumping system are the following:

overheating of the working fluid when its temperature exceeds 40 degrees Celsius;
improper attachment of the submarine cable.

These problems are typical not only for pumps of the brands "Aquarius" and "Sprut", but in general for everyone, since the reasons that led to such problems are in no way connected with the quality of the pump, but directly depend on the professionalism of the pump installer.
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If you find that the device is not working properly, you should not immediately try to fix it, even if the reason is obvious. Initially, you need to check the device for the presence of either minor problems that are not so obvious at the first inspection, or for the presence of a major problem, when it is initially not clear at all why the device does not work.

Submersible pump with accumulated deposits on the casing

On the submersible pumps of the brands "Sprut" and "Aquarius", as, indeed, on any others, the first thing we do is to check whether there was a banal overload, due to which the automatic device and the entire pumping system as a whole could turn off.

disassemble the junction box;
make a visual inspection of the inside - a burnt-out part will be immediately noticeable (a burning smell can also be felt).

If the cause of the breakdown is not clear, then you need to remove the impeller from the pumping motor and check whether the motor itself rotates directly in a free state or not.

It is important to know that most modern pumping devices are manufactured in single phase.A so-called "smoothing capacitor" is connected to them, thanks to which the engine starts up more smoothly and smoothly. There is a special winding around it.

In such pumps, the engine most often burns out. Actually for this reason, it is necessary to remove the impeller. And after removing the impeller, you must try to scroll the shaft manually. Thanks to the pre-vacated space, due to the removal of the impeller, this is not difficult to do.

But if the shaft is not spinning, then you need to think about mechanical failure. To be more precise, you should think about engine jamming.

This can happen for the reason that small or, in other cases, large soil particles constantly get into the engine.

This only happens if the engine does not have an additional protective filter. Actually, these particles can be the cause of such problems. It is noteworthy that if they are not promptly removed from the motor of the pumping device, then this will gradually lead to the fact that the entire stator winding will completely burn out. She, obviously, cannot be repaired, only replaced. However, if the shaft has no problems with rotation, then the lower part of the motor can be assembled.
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Before starting to disassemble the upper part of the electric motor, be sure to place it in an upright position. This is really necessary, as installing the electric motor in the wrong position can lead to oil leakage, which is the working fluid in pumping systems..After installing the electric motor in the required vertical position, it is imperative to remove the cover through which the power wires of the installed electric motor pass. Actually, when you remove the cover, you can immediately diagnose the starting capacitor for problems. To do this, it will be necessary to use an ohmmeter in order to check the resistance of both the starting and its own working winding.Therefore, further you need to take the ohmmeter terminals and connect them directly to the winding itself. Next, you need to rotate the handle, which will then create the required voltage of 200 - 300 volts. When the resistance readings on the device do not reach infinity, and this has a certain value, it can be assumed that the condition of the winding is satisfactory or even ideal.But in cases where the device detects resistance reaching infinity, we can safely say that there is a problem in the form of a break in the operating phase of the motor.Blockage of the inside of the submersible pumpWhen the device detects too little resistance, we can say that there is a so-called turn-to-turn circuit. Unfortunately, if one of the above possible problems occurs, then an attempt to fix everything with your own hands will not be crowned with success, and the unit will need to be taken to specialists who have the equipment necessary for repairing.However, in most cases, the problems described above require not so much a partial or complete repair as a complete replacement of all defective parts. Especially when it comes to winding.If the device says that all the checked elements of the pumping system are in perfect working order, it is necessary to carefully examine the starting capacitor. Under such circumstances, most often the cause of a malfunction of the entire system is precisely its breakdown. In addition, it can be in a state of the so-called breakage.Unfortunately, at first glance, this problem may not be striking, but when diagnosed with a special device, an ohmmeter, the malfunction will surely come out. And already in these cases, it will be possible to repair the starting capacitor on its own.However, most often, the repair of a starting capacitor can only be called a complete replacement, since its breakdown, and most often it is overheating and combustion of the capacitor, is a fatal breakdown.The drainage pump in a suburban area is a kind of magic wand in case of unforeseen situations. By design, it resembles equipment for the supply of drinking water, but it has the ability to move contaminated media with large inclusions.Let's try to understand the weaknesses of the unit and find out if it is possible to repair the drain pump with our own hands, if necessary.The ability to pump water with fine gravel, large inclusions of sand, organic debris is a very useful quality when you need to pump out water after flooding or drain a pond. Drainage units are designed to work in such conditions, but exceeding the load often leads to breakdowns.It is better to get acquainted with the internal filling of the device immediately after purchase in order to imagine which parts may fail in case of clogging or breakdown. To do this, it is not necessary to open the case or disassemble - it is enough to study the diagram that is attached to the instructions for connecting and maintaining the device.Apparatuses for private use in summer cottages do not differ in high power or complex filling. Unlike heavy industrial equipment, they are compact, relatively light (average weight - 3-7 kg), consist of steel or plastic parts, although cast iron is still used for the production of industrial models and some household ones.The main components of the submersible mechanism are a pump unit that pumps water and an electric motor that rotates a shaft with blades. The motor is housed inside a robust casing, which is made of stainless steel or reinforced polypropylene and is double. Water circulates between the outer and inner walls, preventing cooling.Modern models are equipped with thermal protection that is triggered when the device is overloaded. An impeller is attached to the axial shaft - a screw device that supplies liquid to the inside of the housing. When the unit is turned on, the impeller begins to rotate, pick up water from the outside and push it along the walls to the outlet. The first portion of water is replaced by the next - and so on until the mechanism stops.The float switch regulates the frequency of operation. It monitors the level of liquid in a reservoir or natural reservoir, when it drops sharply, it turns off the device in automatic mode.As you can see, the device of the drainage pump is quite simple, and if you have ever disassembled and cleaned a submersible well pump, then you can handle this category of equipment as well. The faecal aggregate, which has an additional unit for crushing too large particles, is slightly different.The submersible is useful for cleaning deep tanks, for example, a well that has just been commissioned. The first liquid that has accumulated in it cannot be called drinking, since there are many large inclusions of sand and clay. During the day, it is necessary to pump out the contaminated liquid so that clean, usable water comes in its place.Unlike a submersible pump, a surface pump is not used for deep tanks; it is more suitable for pumping water from a pool or basement when it is flooded. A hose for receiving dirty water is placed at the bottom of the container, the second hose is used to drain the drains.If the pump is used in an emergency, it is appropriate to use a float device that will control the critical level of water rise. The plus is that the design of the mechanism allows you to pump liquid with large pieces of dirt - up to 5 cm (less often - 10 cm).It is clear that the surface type aggregate differs in its structure.A working shaft and a wheel are fixed inside the metal case, and the motor can be different: for centrifugal products - single-phase with external ventilation, for self-priming products - asynchronous two-pole.Despite the contamination of the pumping medium, do not allow the pump to operate with a liquid in which gasoline, kerosene or other oil products and chemicals are dissolved.Both new equipment and those that have served for more than one year can break down. A newly purchased device may fail due to a manufacturing defect made during assembly: a damaged piston or an incorrectly connected valve. Often breakdowns occur due to inept installation, if:

lowered the unit to an insufficient depth;

allowed air to enter the water intake compartment;

the water inlet is above the water and is not covered with liquid.

These flaws are easy to fix with a simple check, but it is better not to allow them.Most often, problems arise during the operation of the equipment. The manufacturer sets the control parameters within which it is necessary to act (they are declared in the technical passport of the product). If the equipment is used incorrectly, not for its intended purpose, it simply will not withstand the load.For example, it is normal for a drainage device to pump dirty water. This means that problems can arise if you start moving clean drinking water (for which borehole and well models are designed). On the contrary, too coarse dirt clogs the filters, as a result of which the pump stops working.Also, troubles await if the equipment is idle, in "dry" mode - overheating will surely happen, which cannot always be corrected on your own. As a result of an oversight, the matter can end up in expensive service repairs.Lack of prevention, rare technical inspections can also cause breakdown. Many troubles can be avoided by preventing them by replacing one of the parts or by elementary cleaning.There are a number of possibilities to repair the equipment with your own hands, provided that the broken part can be replaced with a new one or a simple technical procedure (for example, cleaning) can be performed. To do this, you will have to disassemble the case, make diagnostics, identify the problem and select an identical part.Available actions include replacing a capacitor, impeller or float, repairing an electrical cable, fixing a shock absorber, and removing large pieces of clay and sand stuck inside the housing.If the cast-iron body is cracked, the valve is out of order, or the winding has stopped functioning, you should contact the service center or think about buying a new pump. Inexpensive Chinese-made drainage devices are inexpensive, so ordering serious professional repairs is impractical.The flexible element - the cable - is always at risk, since due to regular twists and kinks (which often happens during transportation and reinstallation of equipment), the wires under the layer of plastic or rubberized protection break, as a result of which the pump power is cut off.It is necessary to find the break point and make the connection. This operation is easy to carry out if a break occurs near the plug - you just need to strip and connect the wires, finally carefully insulating the place of work.A broken cable in the area where the pump is connected will take longer to repair. First you need to remove the equipment from the water, wipe and dry it, then disassemble it to get to the internal connection block. Get ready for the fact that instead of hexagonal holes you will encounter triple ones, which will make it difficult to select a screwdriver.The cover should be removed carefully, without jerking or force. By unscrewing the bolts holding the tension member, you will be able to see the cable and identify the area of the break.We remove the worn-out piece, mount the cable in its original place, fasten the tensioning element, fix the bolts.The engine is working properly, but the fluid has either stopped flowing altogether, or comes in in small, uneven jerks. There may be several reasons for the strange phenomenon:

Part of the supply line is clogged. This is a branch pipe or supply pipe. There is a kind of blockage from bundles of algae and pieces of clay. It is necessary to disconnect the pipes and clean them. It is possible that the pipe length is longer than the manufacturer's recommended length, and therefore there is not enough pressure to deliver the required power.

The impeller is worn out. Blades are bent or damaged. It is necessary to disassemble the device, replace parts, to begin with visually (as far as possible) determining the cause of the malfunction.

The fluid is saturated with dirt and debris. Therefore, the water has a thick consistency and is difficult to pump. We solve the problem by raising the suction hole a certain distance from the bottom, where sediment accumulates.

Engine power has noticeably decreased. That can be determined even by the sound. Possible malfunctions in the supply of electricity, failure of bearings, depressurization of the oil compartment. It is necessary to disassemble the case to clarify the cause of the breakdown and replace worn parts.

The most common problem is filter clogging. You can try running some clean water through the pump to clean the sieve and suction port. If this procedure does not help, you should disassemble the case and clean all chambers, removing stones, algae and chips.When disassembling the unit, be sure to follow the manufacturer's diagrams or instructions. They will help to consistently remove parts, quickly find bolt attachment points. In some cases, wear on fasteners or loose nuts will cause parts to move, which will also affect the performance of the machine.You connect the power supply - and the pump does not work, does not make noise and does not pump water. Prepare to inspect all equipment. The most common causes of engine failure are:

Disruption in the supply of electricity due to broken wires. We check the cable by touch and find the break point. If the emergency area is in the area of connection to the pump, proceed as described above.

The stator winding is out of order. Happens due to dry running. If you cannot replace it yourself, contact a specialist.

Seized bearing... We check the part for suitability, according to the results of diagnostics, we clean or replace it.

The suction device is clogged with debris. We clean the blades and grate, check the integrity of the operating elements and the mesh.

The float switch has broken. To check its functionality, it is necessary to close the relay. The problem may be in the wire connecting the float to the pump.

If the capacitor is out of order, replacement is required. In some models, special access is provided to it, which is a separate hole in the case. Image - DIY repair of submersible centrifugal pumps

When the pump is switched on to the network, it starts to work, however, after a while, it stops spontaneously. Most likely, a protective mechanism is triggered due to engine overheating.

A heating cable may be the cause. It is worth checking the correspondence of the mains voltage and the parameters set by the manufacturer. If the data does not match, you need to purchase a stabilizer.

Shutdown can also occur due to clogging of the blades with debris. In this case, we recommend that you carry out a complete cleaning procedure, that is, open the housing, clean the inner chambers and impeller, and check the filter.

If blockages occur frequently, re-read the instructions for the product to determine the size of the fractions. Perhaps the pump is not designed for pumping liquid with large particles of debris - only a fecal pump is suitable for grinding

When the pump is turned on, plugs fly out or wires burn out. The reason should be sought in the details directly responsible for the wiring of electricity - the cable or the stator winding. The serviceability of the wires can be checked with a tester; if a worn-out area is found, the entire cable should be replaced or (if the gap is near the end) shorten it.

Winding repair is a laborious task and requires special knowledge. Even with a neatly drawn secondary winding, a short circuit cannot be ruled out. If you have no time to fiddle with a burnt-out part, take the device to a service center - perhaps, after diagnostics, they will advise you to buy a new pump.

As you can see, both inevitable wear and a violation of the rules for operating the equipment can become the cause of wear of parts. To make the device last longer, try to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. For example, position the body so that the suction device is at a certain distance from the base of the tank and does not pick up coarse particles.

At least once a year, check the integrity of the cable and internal parts by disassembling the case as much as possible. Perform preventive cleaning, which will increase the life of the parts by several times. Do not confuse a drainage device with a faecal one - it does not have a special grinder and cannot cope with the movement of large inclusions.

Videos from craftsmen will help you properly organize the disassembly of pumps of various brands and troubleshoot yourself.

Overheating of the stator due to violation of the interval operation mode:

Features of Pedrollo pump repair:

Centrifugal pumps consist of:

Impellers are a working tool that creates centrifugal force for sucking and pushing water into the supply pipe.
An electric motor that drives a shaft with an impeller.
Auxiliary structural elements - bearings, seals, necessary cooling devices for the electric motor.
A housing that contains all the elements and protects against possible damage during installation and operation.

An electric motor drives an impeller, which, while rotating, moves the liquid between its blades to the edges of the pump. Further, the liquid, under the action of centrifugal force, enters the branch pipe, which connects the pump and the general water supply system. For a centrifugal pump, it is recommended to operate in clean water without admixtures of sand and other particles, which have a bad effect on the duration and quality of its work.

Vibration pumps are equipped with:

Working piston.
Strong electromagnet.
An electric motor that drives the working piston.
Additional auxiliary parts - diaphragm, seals, shock absorber and others.
Die-cast metal body.

Submersible well pumps

The electromagnetic field sets the piston in motion, and that - the diaphragm. A pressure difference is created, due to which water enters the chamber and is forcefully transferred to the water pipe. Pumps of this type are not whimsical to the quality composition of water, therefore they are used in wells and for other household needs. They are characterized by lower cost.
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Malfunctions occurring in submersible pumps are divided into two groups:

defects associated with mechanical damage;
control problems.

In percentage terms, those cases of malfunctions that are associated with the user's own negligence, who do not read the instructions supplied with the technique and safety fundamentals, outweigh. In addition, a large number of owners have never removed the pumps from the reservoirs before their breakdown.

Mechanical failures are assembly defects or work problems during temporary wear of the components of the device structure.

Equipment faults can be detected at the first start-up. In this case, it is not worthwhile to repair a submersible pump on your own, since it can simply be replaced with a new one according to the warranty obligations of the seller. When the electric pump has worn parts, the following symptoms often appear:

Buzzing, but does not pump or gives a weak head. In centrifugal pumps, this symptom is typical for a worn out or off-axis impeller. And in vibration - this is the weakening of the shock absorber mounts and its displacement, which leads to idle operation.

When a valve in a vibration electric pump is damaged, the symptoms are the same. The condition is influenced by the absorbed sand, which accelerates the wear process. To return the equipment to operating mode, disassembly and repair kit is required, including at least worn out parts. As a maximum, it is possible to immediately replace the seals that are in operation and in contact with the pumped medium.

It looks like a disassembled pump Caliber clogged with sand

In the vibro copy, you need to tighten the fastening nuts of the shock absorber on a new one. Disassemble the product carefully and preferably in an upright position to reduce the likelihood of loss of components and leakage of oil and lubricants. But how to disassemble if the rusted tie-down fastener does not lend itself to? - First, it is advisable to try using special sprays to remove rust and grease. But if these actions did not produce the desired effect, you need to cut off the mount and replace it with a new one during assembly.

The pump will not pump, but it can hum in the event of a serious breakdown - a break in the vibration pump rod. It is practically impossible to repair or replace the rod in case of deformation or malfunction. If, during the check, the reason is found in the stock, then the repair of submersible pumps with such a diagnosis is not advisable in the future. You need to buy a new copy.

Increased vibration and overheating. Rather, vibration in a centrifugal pump is caused by severe wear of the bearing assemblies or loosening in the fastening of the pump structural elements. To eliminate this symptomatology, it is necessary to replace the bearings, their seals and strengthen the vibrating structural elements.

But vibration in combination with overheating is typical for all types of submersible pumps. Even short-term operation of the pump without water is fraught with cavitation processes, severe overheating and burnout of the device. The case overheats when it gets hot and all thermal fillings lose their insulating and fixing functions. The pump does not turn off, so the loose parts begin to vibrate and become jammed during further diffusion processes.

The most difficult breakdown allows you to repair a faulty electric pump with your own hands, even in this case. Carefully and accurately you need to disassemble the case, clean and separate the electrical part. Tap to determine if the magnet is secured. Remove the already disassembled pump from the body and, using a grinder, make cuts on the inner body part up to 2 mm. The cuts can be made in a chaotic manner - they are created for fixing the adhesive mass.

Vibration pump repair

After what has been done, the inner part is opened with glue or sealant, and then a magnet or stator winding is pressed in. The excess squeezed out remnants of the fasteners are removed, and the body is cleaned. When the glue dries up, you can retrofit the pump.

In some models such as "Trickle", "Kid M" and others, the suction holes are located on top. This design excludes the ingress of impurities from the bottom of the water intake and greatly improves the cooling of the device. The peculiarity of the hole placement allows you to work without a water level for a long time - up to 7 hours. And if the pump is equipped with a thermal relay, then in case of severe overheating or a voltage drop, it will simply turn off, which will save performance. The electric motor will be able to turn off after each time delay of the thermal fuse until it fails completely. The cost with such protection of the submersible device is more expensive.

Jamming. A lot of cases with stopping equipment for this reason consists in the ingress of particles into the water intake or exceeding the temperature regime of the pump. At the same time, disassembling the body and reaching the intake part, they clean the fence mesh, impeller and other elements standing in the way of the free flow. If necessary, replace the worn-out adhered components of the device.
Flow. This phenomenon occurs in places where sealing materials are worn out, which must be replaced immediately. Leaks in the middle of the pump can be identified by corrosive rust or drips. If the problem is not resolved, then soon there will be a need to purchase a new model of the device.

Pump repair kit

The following reasons are characteristic of such breakdowns:

operation of the pump outside the water;
power problems;
not working drive electric motor.

For safe operation, it is recommended to install a special sensor in the control system to monitor the liquid level, which helps the submersible device turn off when the minimum level is reached. Dry running without water will result in irreversible damage.

Power outages lead to violations of the insulating layer of the power cable and the impossibility of further operation. If the cable is not directly mounted into the housing, then it can be replaced; otherwise, a new pump must be installed. Constant knocking out of electrical plugs indicates a cable malfunction or a violation of the armature winding. If the winding is damaged, self-repair is impossible and the assistance of the service center is required.

A non-working engine means a complete replacement of the old pump with a new one, since repairs at home are too difficult, and in repair shops the price is close to buying a new factory version. All disassembly work must be carried out observing safety measures - only after disconnecting from the power supply and removing it from the water.

Video (click to play).