In detail: do-it-yourself cupid repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
In fact, there is nothing complicated about it. But - made in Russia. How not to tune and what not to fill, she will not become a Mercruiser. Therefore, guys, here are the drawings and the story of how everything works, the order of assembly and adjustment.
First, about the simplest faults that can be fixed on the water in 15 minutes. I will add according to, so to speak, “letters to the editor”.
Replacing the propeller shaft oil seals.
A very tenacious knot. But if there is a suspicion. Remove the propeller. The stuffing box under it is held in place with two bolts. The gearbox does not need to be disassembled to remove the assembly. Only drain the oil through the bottom plug. The dimensions of the oil seals are indicated in the manual, I will only note that my oil seals are of a different size (28x42) than those indicated in the manual, and, accordingly, the landing dimensions of the assembly are different. This is a reinforced cuff, type SC, auto parts catalog number 12016518, or 20031202, 16012080B, or more simply - front crankshaft oil seal VAZ 2108-09, LADA SAMARA, Kalina. There are two native oil seals, these are 4, they are already. Put the first oil seals with the spring outward, the second - with the spring inward.
All repairs can actually be done on the floor at home. In addition to ordinary tools, you need hex keys for 5 and 6. To replace gears or bearings, it is really possible to do with a gas stove for heating and a refrigerator (or in winter outside the window) for cooling. The main sealing is carried out with a good imported sealant, only in one place there are two pieces of paranite 1 mm thick.
Thanks to Sergey Khrebtov, Igor Dudkin for this drawing and special thanks to the head of the supply department of KnAAPO N.A. I will be tonsured for assistance. There are errors in the figures, but not essential. Below is a less detailed drawing. 
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Video (click to play). |
Hum or howl of a speaker on the go. Incorrect adjustment of the upper bag. The gears are overtightened by the top cover due to too large adjusting rings on the driven gears, or the nuts on the vertical shaft are overtightened. If the howl passes with a slight release of the four upper lid bolts, then it is advised to simply put a thin gasket, thereby slightly loosening the bag. I would not advise you to get involved in this. For everything is interconnected inside, loosen the cover - tighten the washers of the adjusting nuts. There may also be wear on the upper bearing. And really interesting - the level and brand of oil, if I drain 70 grams from the norm, the column becomes quieter.
Info from Vladimir Dvoynyshov Saratov
I try to do everything equally well and with a guarantee.
I am engaged in the repair of boat engines and units.
I won't tell much of my story
In 2003, he changed the boat to Amur-D (before that his father's boat was Amur-M).
In 2004, he put it in full order (painting, engine repair, repair of the POC, Interior repair), lowered it in July and ran it in until the end of 2004 (did not give heavy loads).
In the middle of 2005, he tested what load on board the boat would pull into planing and what the speed would be. UZAM 1.8 liters for 80th gasoline. Screw diameter 300, pitch 315.
Results:
1.1 person in a boat - Max. 5200 rpm speed 51 km / h.
2.5 people in a boat, average weight of each 80 kg - max. 4800 rpm speed 49-50 km / h
3.9 adults (average weight 80 kg) and 2 children 35 kg - max. about. 4200 speed 40-42 km / h (but went to planing with difficulty).
After 6 years of operation, max. pulls out 8 people (the same screw).
Now I operate with a propeller with a diameter of 300 mm, pitch 350 mm.
Max. 4600 rpm the speed is 50-52 km / h, but I feel that the engine has become weaker. Although the compression is 9-9.5 and I don't add oil for the whole season at all. I have not yet been able to jump over the 52 km / h threshold.
For 6 years I changed 2 cylinder heads (burst) tried to install brass valve guides. Successful experience - they work.I am thinking about replacing the engine, because we now have a problem to repair the engine (no good spare parts - one year but).
I don’t want to put the suspended one for two reasons:
1. I don’t like how he walks under it (he loses all the qualities of Cupid, especially on the wave, turns into a "cauldron").
2. Expensive (well, sorry for the money, which are not many) -))))))))))))
I am still picking up the engine. I am also considering your options. I don’t give them up yet (any INFORMATION is good for me, especially any experience (I don’t want to make a mistake)), but even how to issue them in GIMS? (Muscovites do not want to officially register 2.0 liters). Yes, and engines until 2000 have not yet met good options (mostly high mileage).
Consumption experience:
1. Moskvich 1.5 l - 12-15 l / h. Carb K-126N, carb. Solex 21083
2. Moskvich 1.8 l - 18-22 l / h. Carb Ozone 2140, Solex 2141 for 1.8 liters.
There was an idea to make friends with the outboard column of the boat Amur - POK-60 and the gearbox of the outboard four-stroke Yamaha F80-100 engine, as well as to close up the TRIM from the Mercruiser. Initially, it is planned to use as many existing spare parts as possible with minimal changes.
In the upper gearbox of the POC, I leave only two gears from the clutch. The reduction and reverse mechanism is located in the Yamaha gearbox. Reduction 1: 2.3.
The direction of the propeller is the same as that of the Yamaha. Exhaust through the propeller hub, respectively.
Two gearboxes are combined (as on a native column), you can also do it separately by installing an oil seal, as in a mercruiser or a yamaha.
2nd shaft is ready. I installed it in place until everything works out.
The POK-60 switching clutch is not used.
Only two gears are used: Leading POK - from the universal joint and driven - lower from the POK-60 clutch.
Reverse shifting mechanism
Trim Mechanism
I assume from a mercruiser. Found the pump. I am looking for cylinders at a reasonable price.
At first I planned to try it without trim, but making a latch drive requires a certain investment of time and is not very convenient and reliable, as it seemed to me, but it will take one test drive. So I decided to do everything at once.
The trim pump weighs approximately 2-3 Kg and measures approximately 200x200x300mm (wxdxh).
Our pump costs from 12,000 rubles. up to 28000 p.
Hydraulic cylinders are offered from 3000 rubles. up to 12000 p. for one - they are now offering me 3000 rubles, while I am trying to find a cheaper one.
I will think about the emergency reclining after the end of the season. In the meantime, I'll try with the standard mercruiser system. There is a safety valve, I'll see how it works.
Revealed:
1. Decrease in noise - on small ones you can hardly hear the POC - you can hear the engine. At full, the noise level did not decrease very significantly, but still by 15-20 percent.)
2. The exit to planing is fast, and no matter what propeller it is.
3. Kav. the plate is 16 mm below the bottom - the spray is the same as with the native POC. But I think that here I missed it was necessary to do it flush with the bottom. Feeling that the POK is deeply seated.There are no gaps when cornering. I will think about this problem.
4. The roll to the other side has changed, but quite easily corrected by moving some things to the other side.
5. I tried 6 screws (load 90 l of benzine, 100 Kg of junk and my weight is 60 Kg):
- Yamaha 13 1/4 * 17 - 5500 rpm - upstream 48-49 km / h - downstream. 51-52 km / h
- Yamaha 13 * 19 - 5400 rpm - 48 km / h - 52 km / h
- Suzuki 14 * 17 - 5000 rpm 46-47 km / h - 49-50 km / h
- Yamaha 13 * 21 or 23 I don’t know there is no marking - 4640 rev. - 48 km / h - 52 km / h
- Solas Amita 3 13 * 21 - 4400 rpm. - 47 km / h - 51 km / h
- Solas undercut 12 * 21 - 4740 rpm - 44 km / h - 48 km / h
Solas didn't like the screws. Feeling as if an anchor had been dropped from behind. All screws are aluminum.
The POK howls much quieter, although I put gears from different pairs, but I think that it rolls in and will be even quieter.
I took some measurements again
Conditions: 80 L of gasoline, 100 Kg of trash, 2 people (170 Kg)
Yamaha screw 13 * 21 or 23 I do not know - there is no marking.
The place is a bay with no current.
1. The column stop is set to 3 holes. from the stern.
rev. 4600, speed 51 km / h there was a tendency to dolphin.
2. Set the column stop on 2 holes. from the stern.
rev. 4600, speed 51 km / h is more confident.
The speed is the same, that in one direction, that in the other.
Ordered a screw Yamaha 13 1/2 * 21 stainless steel.
Last weekend I installed my own POK
I made comparative measurements.
Conditions: 80 HP gasoline, 100 kg of trash, 2 people (170 kg.)
Location: a bay with no current.
1. Screw dia. 300 pitch 350 blades made thinner, polished and balanced. Obor. Max. 4400 speed 49 km / h.
2. Screw dia. 300 step 315 is polished and balanced.
Obor. Max. 4700 speed 49-50 km / h.
3. Screw dia. 285 step 315 is polished and balanced.
Obor. Max. 4800 speed 48 km / h.
Conducted the following measurements with the Yamaha screw, the original polished stainless steel 13 1/2 x 21.
1. Loading by 1 person (60 Kg), 20 Kg of things and 80 liters of gasoline. Against the stream.
- 4700 rpm - 55 km / h
- 4200 rpm - 49 km / h
- 3900 rpm - 45 km / h
minimum speed for planing 3000 rpm. consumption 17 l / h at 4200 rpm
2. Loading of 8 people (800 Kg), 80 Kg of things and 50 liters of gasoline.
It took 2 minutes to glide. spun 4400 rpm. Speed is not measured.
3. Loading 3 persons (210 Kg), 200 Kg of things approximately, 100 liters of gasoline
- 4550 rpm - 49-50 km / h
- 4200 rpm - 45 km / h
- 4000 rpm - 40 km / h
- 3900 rpm - 39 km / h
- 3800 rpm - 38 km / h
Approximately 43-45 km / h
With a standard POK 7 people + 200 kg of all sorts of things + 60 liters of gasoline - I did not pull out for planing. With this POK, 2 people (150 Kg) + 200 liters of beer + 310 liters of gasoline + 140 liters of water + 100 kg of grub did not go out for planing. I turned the engine up to 4000 rpm, but the boat didn’t get to the glide, so I had to go 1600 rpm to save fuel.
Boat response to trim
1. Reacts in the same way as on a suspension bracket. If you raise it strongly, it starts to dolphin, if you lower it strongly, it splashes. I made the column a little low in the winter, I will think. It must be set flush with the bottom or higher by 5 mm.
2. Affects the speed insignificantly.
3. This is under heavy load. With the usual trim, you can not play it on planing, as with a native speaker.
John Zaitsev 01 Mar 2014
John Zaitsev 01 Mar 2014In general, I thought that it’s probably time, all the more so as to discuss in the topic on repairing 3S-FE, questions on its conversion, I will quote myself:
Although I did not want it ahead of time, apparently, winter makes itself felt.
Moreover, according to previous experience, there are fears that a lot will be forgotten, and you just don't want to writeawhen the question loses its relevance.
Although the topic has already been thoroughly worn out, for myself, however, I did not find a recipe that would be 100% suitable for me: there is a variant with a Kosmichev bell and a clutch, but “on the shaft” (Alexander Shagin), which is not limited by the proximity of the engine to the transom and the neighborhood BBX. There are jet options (Dmitry Solodovnikov) who do not even know what a "adapter plate" and others like them are. There are POC variations with a Kosmchev bell and a Toyota flywheel and basket, but requiring a decent machine park for the manufacture of a “primary” shaft (Stas Dolgov).
In the POK version, not least of all, the question of a starter with the desired location arises: the most widespread are 3S with a starter location “from the box side”, and even a motor in the version with automatic transmission, like the one I got, and “speakers” need a starter "From the engine side", and the flywheel from the version with manual transmission.
My idea was to convert 3S-FE to the maximum budget, with minimal involvement of relatively precise machines. Those. , as much as possible - with your own hands.
While I will answer the questions asked in the topic for repairing 3S, then I will slowly spread what I have accumulated.
Post has been edited by John Zaitsev on March 02, 2014 - 00:19
John Zaitsev 02 Mar 2014
The most difficult thing is the collector, you can just buy it.
I agree with this proposal: the cooled collector is not the last, in terms of labor intensity, stage of the operation called "conversion". You can buy ready-made, you can do it yourself. I have chosen the second path. Not only for financial reasons. I wanted to do everything myself as much as possible. Type - checking the possibilities.
This thesis - the maximum with your own hands with a minimum of investment, will slip through my posts more than once. Naturally - with maximum quality. Therefore, it takes so long. Reassurance, her mother.
Now the semi-finished collector is preparing to go to the argon welder for welding. I will weld stainless steel, but only by electric welding. Will lead her at the same time. Plus, or rather, minus - do not crawl to put “gloss” after welding. Therefore - argon.
Plus, it is possible to adjust the overall geometry of the reservoir “as needed” and not “as done”.
Here is the first question - how was the mating surface of the collector you bought was processed, did you check for flatness and what did you put the collector on, in the sense - just a gasket, or did you add sealant? Because there is an idea to put the VK gasket on a heat-resistant sealant. DoneDeal holds, for example, up to 345 * С: 45-s-85-gr.html
Post has been edited by John Zaitsev on March 02, 2014 - 00:21
John Zaitsev 02 Mar 2014
I cooked the brackets between the motor and the pillow in place, left the pillows and brackets from the frame with my family Amurovskys and put the motor in the centers on the lining.
The same thing - I cooked the brackets according to the “place”, only here I decided to change the “place”: I took it a long time ago that it is easier to perform an additional action in the repair, and then it’s easier to do the work, and not as the situation dictates.
In general, from the 45th corner, I made an exact copy of the Amurov sub-engine frame: it did not take so much time, compared to how much effort I would have spent jumping into the engine compartment, and working (more precisely, masochism) in it , in the pose of a summer resident.
I didn’t find pictures of this frame - probably I didn’t, on Monday I will do it - I will post it.
In the meantime, a photo of the left bracket:
There are no drawings - only the distance between the bolts was measured, based on this, blanks were made, grabbed in place, removed, and scalded.
With the left paw, it was still okay on the bolts, but with the right one there was an ambush.
Post has been edited by John Zaitsev on March 02, 2014 - 00:56
Dear. Why a clutch basket? On the rear shaft with the flywheel bolts. Basket + disc + bell is a decent weight!
John Zaitsev 02 Mar 2014
The rear engine mount is attached to the clutch cover (bell) constructively (factory solution). Inside this support, the propeller shaft bearing is fixed. I don’t see any point in collective farms - labor costs will still remain and it will still have weight. You need a flywheel anyway - for a starter. Well, to the clutch, there is a stone's throw, but there is still benefit from it - smooth and quick engagement of the stroke and reverse has not hurt anyone.
Of course, I will not undertake to claim that this is a 100% necessary part, but I decided to do so.
The rear engine mount is attached to the clutch cover (bell) constructively (factory solution). Inside this support, the propeller shaft bearing is fixed. I don’t see any point in collective farms - labor costs will still remain and it will still have weight. You need a flywheel anyway - for a starter. Well, to the clutch, there is a stone's throw, but there is still benefit from it - smooth and quick engagement of the stroke and reverse has not hurt anyone.
Of course, I will not undertake to claim that this is a 100% necessary part, but I decided to do so.
Plus the convenience of maneuvering when approaching and mooring, plus a standard clutch disc damper, I support.
Post has been edited by kater61 on: 02 March 2014 - 09:46
On the clutch cover (bell).
Who Said No Flywheel? You can't do without a flywheel! Faith does not allow to make an engine support from a piece of iron? Fix the starter, too, to make a bracket from the same piece of iron, everything will be much smaller and more accurate.
The damper on the clutch disc, you say? Put the rubber coupling from the cardan, it is softer.
Who Said No Flywheel? You can't do without a flywheel! Faith does not allow to make an engine support from a piece of iron? Fix the starter, too, to make a bracket from the same piece of iron, everything will be much smaller and more accurate.
The damper on the clutch disc, you say? Put the rubber coupling from the cardan, it is softer.
The damper of the branded clutch disc is designed to damp torsional vibrations of different frequencies by using a set of springs with different selected characteristics, which is very important especially for a diesel engine. The rubber damper mainly absorbs shock loads in the drivetrain.
Post has been edited by kater61 on: 02 March 2014 - 11:16
John Zaitsev 02 Mar 2014
Who Said No Flywheel? You can't do without a flywheel! Faith does not allow to make an engine support from a piece of iron? Fix the starter, too, to make a bracket from the same piece of iron, everything will be much smaller and more accurate.
The damper on the clutch disc, you say? Put the rubber coupling from the cardan, it is softer.
What's the point? Gain 10cm in the engine compartment and 10kg of weight, having additional hemorrhoids of dubious feasibility with the manufacture of a replacement for the existing solution.
And, this, you do not want to say that because of these 10 cm I will move the bulkhead between the cockpit and the engine compartment?
I also agree when the engine and the column are put from scratch in a pristine case. There you can still dream up.
ZY In your fantasies, the main thing is to stop in time. Believe me, I know this very well.
John Zaitsev 02 Mar 2014
As I already said, with the manufacture of the right support, an ambush awaited me. My engine is from the all-wheel drive version of the Nut (Toyota Gaia). In this version, the transfer case is attached to the motor block on the right side. Since the engine under the hood of the car stands transversely, it turns out that behind the engine. At first, I could not understand where people were fixing the support: there were no reports of abnormal production anywhere. When I already began to ventilate this question, I discovered that instead of a threaded boss I had only one name (shown by an arrow in the picture).
It was possible, of course, to move the support forward, but then the weight distribution of the block would change, and a large load would fall on the bell-block joint.
Therefore, I decided to make an enlarged platform for the support, fixing it on the bosses for the transfer case.
It turned out a little monstrous, but reliable and correct:
The pictures show that the outer planes of the right bosses do not lie in the plane of the left ones. I bypassed this moment by carving out the sleeves Ф20х20 and Ф20х25, making holes in the platform for them, fixing everything on the block and welding it in place. Then, having removed it, I boiled it.
Naturally, before making the supports, I put the engine on the slipway as it should be on the sub-frame in the boat. I made a dummy transom plate out of 12mm plywood, inserted a rear support into it (the bell with it, of course, was already on the engine) and put the front end of the KV strictly in the middle of the slipway and at a distance of 125mm above it (the spacecraft has 128mm, but it is longer, therefore did a little less).
Post has been edited by John Zaitsev on March 02, 2014 - 12:17 pm
John Zaitsev 02 Mar 2014
It was necessary to stick 3S through force, and then, based on the results of navigation, move on. Shoot capital or just pick up snot. The difference in motors is HUGE not in favor of UZAM.
It turned out so that the engine had to be disassembled almost immediately. Almost: before disassembling, I managed to loosen the braid, throw out the excess from there and prepare it for a test start of the engine. Measurementcompression showed a run-up on the cylinders of 10-11.5 kg. This, of course, alarmed, but it was necessary to move on. I also did not like the oily soot in the cylinder head exhaust ports. But only after unscrewing the oil filter, I realized that the case smelled like kerosene: under the filter was a ball of coke, and the filter smelled burnt. Further, it was decided to pull off the pallet for initial inspection. The picture that opened was sad:
That which was rotating was still relatively clean, while the stationary parts were coated with a thick layer of coke and "solid oil".
I, of course, have seen such horror stories on the Internet, but I never would have thought that one of them would get me.
But thanks, again, I’ll turn it on - kind people (Zloaleks) suggested how to wash the coke, which didn’t take anything.
Analysis of the engine showed that, with a theoretical run of 200tyk, it has no wear on the KB necks, and in the cylinders the hon is worn only in certain places of a very small area.
Almost all of the rings were laid, there were carbon hardening on the valve bevels, but the valves themselves were not burnt out. Surprisingly, with all this, there was not the smallest compression in the engine.
John Zaitsev 02 Mar 2014
Is the starter under the manifold or outside? Outside, the starter also gets up, only you need to file down the Uzam's own clutch cover,
Of course, I put the starter under the manifold: I categorically do not accept filing (bells), when you can do it “right”. Moreover, from the side of the bell, it interferes in the version with the POC.
Once I assembled a starter at UZAM from gearboxes from VAZ 2110 and ZMZ406 made in Samara. From the first I took the head and the anchor-stator part, from the second - the gearbox and the bendix. I put a gear from the PAZ starter in the bendix, and the gearbox with it needed others because of the direction of rotation - dozens of starters were spinning in the wrong direction. By turning the stator 90 *, I achieved its rotation “as it should”.
Now I will put the same thing on 3S, since the stators are of a new design - not with glued-in magnets, but inserted raspings, which can be rearranged.
Such a starter turns out to be very compact, but it still fits on 3S literally very tightly - the flywheel of UZAM is significantly smaller in diameter than the 3S.
The photo shows that it was necessary to cut the low tide on the block in order for the starter to fit:
I didn't find the pictures with the starter installed, although I seemed to click. Tomorrow I'll take a picture - I'll post it.
Is registered: 20.11.
Posts: 6656
Location: Ufa
Found cheaply Amur-M with a propeller shaft, a 1.5-liter Muscovite engine and 60 horses. According to the owner's nightingale, the boat has not been in operation for 3 years. There is no propeller shaft. The engine is normal. the reverse gear is new.
Visually, the body seems to be normal. the only nose needs to be adjusted a little - to see it drove into the pier. Inside there is a pile of rubbish and dust, but it seems if you look closely and everything is more or less.
Question. where to find a specialist who will look at this boat and give his opinion on it? Can anyone have such acquaintances?
Is registered: 08.03.2006
Posts: 445
Where: firewood?
Eagle
Passenger
Reputation: 0
Is registered: 04.12.
Posts: 9
Location: Kiev
Here, I got myself a motor POC for a ridiculous price.
And I have a GAZ-21 engine and a shaft with a gearbox on Amurchik.
Victor m.t. 80683737136
Help with installing POC.
There is:
1. Desire
2. Two people with tools and hands not from the priests 
3. Small budget
Not:
1. Concepts of what to do (first time in first grade)
Needed:
1. The commander, what would come (for a reward), set a task, after a while he came to accept the work and set the next task. and so on until the bitter end.
Location:
Kiev - the area of the Central Bus Station (Moskovska Square)
PS: I will also consider options for installing a POC by a specialist.
We repair gearboxes and columns of AMUR boats
Replacement of oil seals
Replacing bearings
new original spare parts from the KNAPO factory
there is a replacement fund.
it is possible to go to the boat for diagnostics
The price of a complete bulkhead of the column is 15,000 rubles
Bulkhead price of the lower gear 7000r
prices for oil seals bearings are determined by the client's desire for imported or domestic spare parts
the cost of gear shafts, etc. determined at current plant prices
The term for a complete reassembly of the column is about 7 days.
Departure for diagnostics on site without removing from the boat 500r by prior request
This ad is archived and may not be up-to-date.
We have hidden the contact information so that the advertiser will not be disturbed unnecessarily.
Pay to get contact information if you really need it.
It is easier for mine to alter a suspension bracket than to buy separately a vehicle and an engine.
here are the links:
... l = & start = 6
Move. it is not a problem to find and it is not expensive, but the POK can be found at someone's waiting
If the budget allows, then alter it under the outboard motor 90hp. it will be just right for him, and if the Muscovite one is put, then perhaps 1.7 half as much as a poltorashka will be
forget mokvich and a column as a nightmare - yes and a feather if it's not a tug for a barge
Re: Is it possible to find a POK for Amur-D
Foreign cars are undoubtedly good, but not everyone has a budget, today I was with a friend and watched Amur-D, this is a boat.
there is amor for cupid is working condition.
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Fig. 1. General location of the boat "Amur-D"
1 - POC; 2 - engine; 3 - blocks of unsinkability; 4 - back seat; 5 - front seat; 6 - windshield; 7 - fire extinguisher; 8 - klotik fire; 9 - headlight; 10 - handrails; 11 - hatch; 12 - side lights; 13 - dashboard; 14 - locker; 15 - gas tanks; 16 - paddle; 17 - battery.
The recreational and tourist boat "Amur-D" was designed and manufactured at the Aviation Plant named after. Yu.A. Gagarina (Komsomolsk-on-Amur). Designed for tourism and walks along rivers, lakes and reservoirs with fresh water at a distance from the coast up to 5 km and wave height up to 1 m. It differs from the boat “Amur-M” first of all by the presence of a propulsion and steering unit, which is a Z-drive, or a swing-out column (POC).
The hull of the boat is made of D16AT duralumin, riveted-welded construction. The bottom and deck stringers are fastened by electric spot welding. Bottom skin thickness 2-2.5 mm; thickness of deck planking and side sheathing - 1.5 mm. The transverse set consists of 10 frames. The hull of the boat is divided by bulkheads into three compartments: forepeak, cockpit and engine compartment. The forepeak, which serves as a luggage carrier, is accessed through a sealed hatch on the deck. The cockpit has two soft seats for the driver and passenger and a stern sofa. Seats and a sofa can be folded into two berths. On the sides of the cockpit there are small trunks and two gas tanks with a total capacity of 100 liters. The cockpit is closed by a folding removable awning, which in the stowed position fits behind the cockpit.
The dimensions and contours of the hull remained unchanged, except that the height of the deck coaming was increased by 60 mm, and the overall depth at the midship was increased by 110 mm. This, like a number of other measures, allowed the boats of new models to go out to sea at a wave height not up to 0.75 m, as in the “Amur-M”, but up to 1 m. The slope of the transom was increased to 10 °.
The engine compartment houses a 412DE engine and a storage battery. To ensure the unsinkability of the boat, foam blocks are installed along the sides of the engine compartment. The POC is attached to the boat transom. The engine compartment is closed by two hatches. For ease of maintenance, the frame wall is quick-detachable. There are shutters on the sides for ventilation of the engine compartment with closed hatches.
Fig. 2. Power plant of the Katea "Amur-D".
1 - Engine; 2 - POC; 3 - Cardan shaft; 4 - Sealing gasket; 5 - Transom plate fastening elements; 6 - Damping ring; 7 - transom plate; 8 - Front supports.
The power plant (Fig. 2) consists of a converted engine of the “412DE” model, pos. 1, a swing-out column (POC), pos. 2. The engine is mounted on three soft mounts. Two front 8 (standard engines "412DE" are installed on the beams, the third is a damping ring 6, installed in the base plate 7. The PSV is connected to the engine by means of a cardan shaft 3.
The engine of the “412DE” model is a four-stroke four-cylinder carburetor with an operating power of 44 kW (60 hp) at 4500 rpm. Specific fuel consumption (gasoline A-93, AI-93, "extra") - 225 g / l. With. h. To operate the engine on the boat, its conversion was carried out: water-to-water and water-to-oil coolers were installed, the standard exhaust manifold was replaced by a cooled one, the lubrication system was changed.
The seawater is supplied to the external circuit of the cooling system using a self-priming pump. At the outlet of the pump, the water is divided into two streams: one of them goes to cool the reverse gear and then is injected into the exhaust pipe; the other is fed into the outer space of the exhaust manifold, then enters the water-oil cooler to cool the oil in the lubrication system. Further, the seawater enters the water-water cooler, in which heat exchange with the water of the internal circuit of the engine cooling system takes place, after which it is released overboard through the shut-off valve, which can be used to regulate the thermal regime of the engine. The water-water cooler is made as a whole with the expansion tank of the internal circuit of the cooling system.
The POK is a propulsion and steering unit for ensuring the transfer of torque from the engine to the propeller, reversing the direction of rotation of the propeller, reducing the propeller speed in relation to the number of revolutions of the engine crankshaft and controlling the boat. Gear ratio from drive shaft to propeller 1: 1.53
Fig. 3. POC boat "Amur-D"
The column body, cast from an aluminum alloy, is structurally made of three parts: an upper gearbox 3, a lower gearbox 19 and a keel 22. The upper gearbox contains: a drive gear 12, a driven reverse gear 11, a forward driven gear 6, a bevel friction clutch 10 The driven gears rotate relative to the housing on ball bearings, and relative to shaft 5 - on needle bearings 7. Spacer 15 separates the gas exhaust cavity and the oil cavity. Exhaust gases are discharged through the anti-cavitation plate 2. Two bronze bushings 14 are pressed into the front of the body; they include axles 13, relative to which the column is tilted up or down. The column is rotated about the axis “to the right” and “to the left” together with the swivel clamp 17. The lower gearbox contains gears 20, 24, a propeller shaft 23 resting on an angular contact bearing 25, and a needle bearing 21.
Three-blade propeller 1 is cast from high-strength aluminum alloy. Screw pitch - 315 mm; diameter - 300 mm; weight - 1 kg. In the root sections, the blades have an aerodynamic profile, and in the end sections, they have a segmental profile. The blades are tilted backward at an angle of 15 ° to the propeller axis.
Power is transmitted from the engine to the pinion gear via the input shaft and double cardan joint.The input shaft runs inside a spacer, which is the third engine support and with its cylindrical end enters a damping ring fixed to the transom plate. A rubber boot protects the propeller shaft from water ingress. The propeller reverse control is carried out by means of a bracket 8, a thrust 9, rockers 4. Two cables from the control handle fit one of them.
Cam 16 controls a bracket 18, with which the column is kept from tilting in reverse. On the forward travel, the cam moves the bracket and the column is freed from "grips". The mechanism for controlling the propeller reverse and the carburetor throttle valve is designed in such a way that it allows one handle, installed on the left side of the console, to control both the propeller reverse and the engine speed, as well as to warm up the engine at any idle speed. The mechanism is easy to use; the blocking does not allow to engage the gear at high engine speeds.
The three-bladed light alloy propeller has a 285 mm diameter and 330 mm pitch.
The boat's electrical system is single-wire. An alternating current generator G250-Zh1 with a built-in silicon rectifier is used as a current source. The rated voltage of the generator is 12 V, the maximum current is 40 A. A storage battery is used as a parallel current source.
The engine is started by the MT113V electric starter. In addition to it, the main consumers of electricity are signal and distinctive lights, a spotlight, signal lights, a sound signal, and instrument illumination lamps. The cockpit has a socket for connecting a portable lamp.
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The engineers of the plant with the production of the boat "Amur-D" easily managed to get rid of one of the main drawbacks of the boat "Amur-M" (large overall draft at low speed (about 0.7 m)) and also easily acquired a new drawback - POC. The POC used on the Amur is not very reliable, and the engine of the “412” model, borrowed from the “Moskvich-412” car, remained a disadvantage. It will also be installed on boats Amur-2, Amur-3 and Vostok (the water-jet version of the boat).
With the release of the boat “Amur-D”, the work of the plant's staff on improving these boats is not finished. “Amur-2” and “Amur-3” as well as a water-jet version of the boat “Vostok” will be produced.
