DIY parquet floor repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a floor from parquet boards from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

No one knows the day and hour when your battery breaks or your neighbor upstairs falls asleep, forgetting to turn off the tap. How to get out of this situation with the least losses? How do you save expensive flooring?

Parquet is a set of natural wood planks of certain sizes. Along the edges it has protrusions and grooves for connecting to each other. Using planks from different species, you can get an endless variety of different parquet patterns.

Panelboard parquet is the same planks (slightly thinner) that are glued to the base made of boards, fiberboard or glued from bars. Shields have dimensions from 0.4x0.4 m to 0.8x0.8 m. The ridges and grooves allow you to connect them together. In terms of its properties, such a floor covering is no different from block parquet.

Parquet board is an attempt to reduce the cost of parquet and make it easier to install. The board consists of three layers: the first two, a layer of plywood and a layer of glued bars, serve as the base of the board. Top layer, veneer of different wood species, decorative. He defines the pattern of the "parquet". The edges of the board fit easily together. Laying such a coating is a pleasure.

The service life of wooden coatings is difficult to determine, under normal conditions it can be calculated in tens of years. Only from time to time do they scrape the parquet, polish the parquet board and again varnish it. Well, and, of course, they change or repair worn-out rivets or whole shields.

But the second enemy of the tree, water, is ruthless. And in this case, it all depends on the circumstances:

How much water was spilled.
How long the "flood" lasted.
What base was the floor covering installed on?

Video (click to play).

If there was little water and the exposure time was short, there is every chance to save even the laminate. Oddly enough, the careless work of some "masters" contributes to the salvation of the expensive coating. If they laid the parquet board or laminate directly on the old flooring or on the logs, having raised the floor above the concrete base, "forgot" to prime the concrete, laid the substrate somehow, then the water will simply soak into the concrete and seep down to the neighbors. All that remains is to dry the parquet board, let the base air out, and you are saved.

It is another matter if the laying work was carried out in full: the screed is poured, primed, plywood is laid, the substrate is airtight. The water has nowhere to go. The floor covering swells, deforms, veneers come off, plywood swells. The consequences, as we see, are sad. Laminate flooring can be thrown away immediately, it will not recover. The parquet can be dried and then the situation can be assessed. The parquet board must be dismantled, stacked and dried. Remember to label each board as you remove the cover, so that you can reassemble in the same order. Place strips of corrugated cardboard between the rows in the stack and replace them daily. It will absorb excess moisture. In order for the boards not to lose their shape, it is recommended to load them with something.

Repair of panelboard parquet is done according to the same scheme: inspection and assessment of the condition, dismantling of damaged panels, their drying and replacement, if necessary. While the boards are drying, and this may take more than one day, the base must be completely dried. If this is not done, mold may develop.

As you can see, there is a lot of work and it is not so easy. Despite all measures, it is impossible to do without losses completely. This is also visible to the untrained eye. To more accurately assess the damage and outline an action plan, contact a professional parquet flooring professional. The long-term consequences of such a "flood" can only be determined by a specialist.

There is parquet on the floor. he is 7. worn out. bamboo.restoration is needed. question - there is a constant unpleasant smell in the room. appeared immediately, at first they sinned on the furniture, the furniture threw out the smell remained. if it smells like parquet - you can varnish it (initially it is not varnished, just assembled as a constructor) - the smell will disappear, or should the parquet be changed?

Irina hello, I looked at your photos. I want to reassure you a little, bamboo parquet belongs to exotic wood species and therefore can emit certain odors. Solving the problem is not difficult, you just need to sand, putty and cover the parquet with two coats of primer varnish for exotic species + two more coats of water-based polyurethane varnish. This coverage scheme will give a beautiful shade to the parquet and protect it well from external influences. The cost of this scheme, taking into account all materials and turnkey works, will be today: 900r. m2

Hello Victor. There are stepladder dents on the parquet board (repairs were made). Is there anything you can do? Are you sanding your parquet board? How much is it? The parquet board is laid on a substrate.

Hello Marina. Some dents or scratches on the parquet floor can be removed locally without resorting to full sanding and varnishing. To say unequivocally, photographs or technological inspection are necessary. If there are a lot of dents, then it is more advisable to sand and varnish the parquet board. The cost of grinding and varnishing a parquet board today is 640 rubles m2.

Is it possible to repair my parquet board, in my opinion))

Hello Victoria. Your photos show that this is a birch parquet board, but perhaps it is also a panel parquet. Very much cracked, and in some places it just collapsed. On a rare occasion, we do not recommend restoring the park or board, but this is exactly the case! We advise you to replace this parquet with a new parquet board or other floor covering. If you need a more detailed answer or recommendations, please call. The best we can, the more we will help.

Good afternoon, Victor. How to get rid of the smell of a new parquet board was laid 2 months ago, now there is sunshine in the room and it smells like something. Ash parquet board trend Focus floor

Hello Svetlana. The appearance of an extraneous smell may be the result of the heating of the parquet varnish or glue - by the sun. Chemical evaporate. elements inside. Ash parquet board trend Focus floor, high-quality and beautiful flooring, but in life anything can happen. You can invite a representative of the company that sold you the board or contact the manufacturer directly. It's your right. If the smell is not “criminal”, then try using Forbo 888 or Berger L91 cleanser during wet cleaning. The cost of these funds is within 1000 rubles per liter, enough for a very long time, extremely easy to use. They clean the varnish surface well and give freshness. I think this should help. S. uv. Victor.

Hello Victor. 2 years ago I installed a floating parquet board on an old base (plywood). Before that, there was parquet flooring, which turned out to be completely damaged due to flooding of the apartment, but the plywood remained dry and even, at least that's what the workers said. After the flooring, after 2-3 months, bubbles appeared in two places, but I was warned that the coating could “play” depending on the state of humidity in the apartment. After a while, the floor leveled off. But this summer, almost the entire surface of the floor is swollen. I would like to know if something can be done, for example, dismantle and re-install the parquet board. The situation is complicated by the fact that I have installed a built-in wardrobe in this room. In such a situation, is it possible to dismantle the parquet board? Thank you if you answer, otherwise I'm really worn out, I don't know what to do

Good afternoon. As a result of the flooding, the parquet board began to peel off. Is there anything you can do?

Vyacheslav, hello. We looked at the photos of your parquet board. Most likely the coating was white oil or white dye varnish on an oak parquet board. Unfortunately, hardwood flooring is very poor at resisting water, which can lead to cracking or delamination. If more than 3-4 months have passed after the flood, then it can be restored by grinding, followed by protection with varnish or oil. If the flood was very recently, then it is not worth taking any action yet, the board must give off excess moisture in a natural way, and only after that you can proceed to its restoration. In this situation, the longer the drying time the better!

Hello. 3-layer parquet board - the top layer has swollen from the ingress of water. How to restore? Is it possible to glue and secure with self-tapping screws? Or something different? Please advise.

Boris, hello. Tell me when was the bay? How much is the board raised, or did the veneer itself move away from the board? It is possible to press the parquet board, having previously pumped in the repair compound under it and to fix it with self-tapping screws, it is possible, but in order to make the repair places as invisible as possible. it is advisable to putty or solder the holes from the screws with colored wax. If, nevertheless, the veneer has moved away from the board itself, in this case it will need to be replaced locally with a new one or glued in the old one, if it is not very deformed. With such a solution to the problem, a full-fledged or local polishing of the parquet board will most likely be required. These solutions are preliminary, as we do not see the problem. For the correct decision-making, it is necessary that you contact our technologist (or he with you), and it is better to order a technical inspection and a specialist's visit to the object (in Moscow, travel 500 rubles).

Thank you very much for your attention to our company. Each question enhances our high quality of service and will certainly be answered by our managers.

Panel parquet is a floor covering in the form of modular parquet panels, and not small planks in the classic form. Using these products, the floor can be tiled in a short time. In the modules, the drawing is already "laid out", it remains only to correctly connect the large blocks. Modules are in no way inferior to small parquet boards: neither in quality nor in use.

Parquet in the form of large modules, like ordinary small ones, consists of several layers:

Substrate - slats of coniferous trees, plywood, chipboard or particle board;
The top face is usually patterned veneer or veneer plywood.

Depending on the materials used and the methods of their fastening, panelboard parquet is divided into types:

ПШ 1 (panel parquet) - at the base of the product there are wooden frames made of bars connected at the corners with thorns and glue. The inner space of the contour is filled with planks with tenon joints.
ПШ 2 - the rack base is revetted with veneer on both sides.
ПШ 3 - the base is made of chipboard П-3, faced with veneer on both sides. PShch-3 can have a base of DSP; veneer is not used for such a product.
PShch 3 is a two-layer base of wooden slats located perpendicular to the direction of each other's fibers.

The front side of the parquet is usually made of natural deciduous and coniferous wood, processed in different ways. The layer thickness can vary from 4 to 8 mm. The type of facing parquet material has its own designation:

P - front covering made of solid wooden planks;
Щ - strips of peeled or sliced veneer;
F - plywood facing strips.

The total thickness of the parquet board can be 22 ... 40 mm.

Panelboard parquet is made in the form of square modules with a side of 300 ... 800 mm. The larger the board, the faster the floor covering is assembled; such products often have a larger pattern or its fragments.

Modern collections of panel board parquet can include products of different shapes, repeating the contour of a complex pattern.Laying these is more complicated. This type of parquet flooring is called artistic.

Each strip has blind grooves for installation, which is carried out using dowels made of birch, coniferous trees and plywood. It turns out that the dowels are inserted between adjacent panels around the entire perimeter.

Some series are equipped with a tongue-and-groove lock, then one product has a groove on one side, and a protruding ridge on the other. This type of coating is laid without the use of additional elements.

Thin boards can only be laid on a solid base (screed, flooring). This is true for parquet with a thickness of 22 ... 28 mm. PSH3 cannot be laid on the lags, since the base of the chipboard does not work for bending to the required extent.

Thick modules can be stacked either on logs or on a solid base.

Before proceeding with laying the logs, the floor is cleaned of dirt, if necessary, the screed is leveled and repaired. This is necessary for perfectly level horizontal fixing of the support rails.

Bars with a cross section of at least 50 × 50 mm are used as a lag. They are made of softwood, mainly spruce and pine. Lags are pretreated with an antiseptic and dried to a moisture content of no more than 18%.

Laying panelboard parquet on a flat base is somewhat different from the previous method.Laying on a flat floor can be done in two ways:

On a cement screed. If it is planned to install parquet directly on concrete, then the surface must be perfectly leveled. To do this, a building rule is laid on the floor and the size of the gaps between the tool and the floor is determined. If the gaps are more than 2 mm, it is necessary to fill these areas with a self-leveling screed or cover the entire area of the room, achieving an ideal horizon. After 5-7 days from the moment of pouring, the surface is impregnated with a moisture-resistant deep penetration primer. After a day, you can start laying the coating.

On a plywood backing. This method is good in that it does not require expensive and time-consuming leveling of the base. Fiberboard or plywood can be used as a substrate. Sheets of these materials are cut into fragments into squares with sides of 400 × 400 or 500 × 500 mm, they are laid out along the perimeter at a distance of 0.8 ... 1 cm from each other and a gap is left at the walls of 1.5 cm. , then collect the blanks. After that, glue is applied to the floor with a notched trowel and the squares of the substrate are fixed on it. Additionally, plywood and fiberboard are fastened with self-tapping screws in the corners and on the sides with a pitch of 150 ... 200 mm.

As in the previous method, cords are pulled along the long side and perpendicular to it. A corner block and the letters "G" adjacent to it in the shape of the letter "G" are laid out on them, as in the previous method. Glue is applied under each product.Parquet modules are glued to a special compound. It is applied in a thin layer up to 1.5 mm, parquet is laid. A key is inserted into the groove of the already fixed shield and a new one is pressed against it. For a better connection, the grooves, combs and dowels must be coated with PVA glue. After fastening the elements to each other, their edges are tapped to remove excess glue, which is removed with a rag.Wedges are driven in between the wall and the extreme parquet row until the glue dries.

There is a huge variety of types of flooring. Modular parquet is the most common of these. In many Soviet-built houses, the floors are preserved, made of layers of square sheets, which are fastened together. Soviet panel board parquet has length and width parameters from 40 to 80 cm, and thickness varies from 1.5 to 4.0 cm.

This square has four-sided grooves that are needed to assemble and fasten the plates together as a constructor.

The planks are laid directly on the concrete screed, but in most cases on logs, long planks that are laid on the bars between opposite walls. Lags are arranged parallel to the longest wall of the room.

The size of the sheet corresponds to the distance between the lags, but it is imperative that the edges of the shield are located in the center of adjacent boards. For slats measuring 80 × 80 cm, logs are laid every 40 cm.

This parquet has many advantages due to its structure. It is reliable and practical thanks to its layering.

The base of the shield is made of inexpensive wood; plywood is more often used. And the top is made of fine processed wood. Such a multi-layer system is resistant to changes in humidity and temperatures.

Unfortunately, no matter how durable and reliable a wooden floor is, over time it can also break and lose its original luster.

During everyday wet cleaning, water can flow under the board surface and accumulate there, which leads to its delamination and the appearance of fungus in the formed cavities. Due to the temperature difference, the boards dry out, and a characteristic creak appears.

From multiple rearrangements of furniture, cracks and scratches appear on the floor, making the surface uneven and dull.

As a result, it loses its former attractiveness, the floorboards emit a nasty creak and there comes a moment when you think about repairing the floor or replacing the old parquet with a new one.

Buying new parquet is not cheap, so many families decide to renovate their existing flooring. And then the question arises whether to do it yourself or use the help of professionals.

Often on the Internet you can find the opinion of "experts" that the panelboard flooring cannot be restored and repaired. Let me disagree with this. In this article, we will tell you how to make an inexpensive DIY repair with high quality and with minimal time costs.

For repairs, you will need the following tools: a crowbar, a chisel, a nailer, a large sledgehammer, a hammer drill (you can use an impact drill), a medium hammer and a construction knife.

All this is easy, you can purchase at any hardware store. If you decide to scrape the floor, you will have to buy more specialized equipment and tools: a hand scrubber or a grinder, sandpaper, and a float.

Today there are many advertisements on the market “Dismantling and installation of panel parquet”, the price of these services “bites”, like any construction work.

So we'll make do on our own... Before disassembling it, it is necessary to prepare the very room in which the dismantling is carried out: remove the furniture; if there is wiring on the floor, by de-energizing it, dismantle the skirting boards and sills using a crowbar.

It is an art to disassemble such parquet correctly. We begin dismantling by putting numbering and arrows on the sheets.

This procedure is necessary so that later it would not be necessary to adjust the sheets to each other, which greatly increases the time, and we want to make repairs not only with high quality, but also spending a minimum of time.

We begin to remove the sheets from the place where the laying of the boards ended. Usually, they start laying from the window and move in the opposite direction.

This means that we start disassembling from the side opposite to the window. With a nail puller and a sledgehammer, we lift one of the sheets. You will have to make a lot of effort to tear it off the glue. We remove the coating one by one.

What to do if some of the boards on the modular parquet have fallen into disrepair or have fallen off. First, you need to protect the undamaged boards by covering them with linoleum or cardboard, securing them to the surface with masking tape.

Then carefully and carefully remove the problem areas with a chisel. After dismantling, it is imperative to clean the building from debris.

There are several known ways to repair and restore this coating. The first method is suitable if the surface is worn out and you do not want to use a sanding machine.

Having removed the shields, and neatly folded them near the wall, we examine the surface that was under the parquet. If the surface under the floor is solid, then it is enough just to remove the sheets from the old fasteners, turn them 180 degrees and attach them to the logs with dowel-nails.

If you find loose stands, be sure to pre-fix them with foam. Then, when it dries up, a hole is drilled in the log. You need to drill carefully.

If there is a crack in the concrete, then under the influence of a drill or punch, a piece of concrete from the ceiling can fall off from the neighbor under you. Agree an unpleasant situation!

The hole should be such that the drill bit goes 4-5 cm into the concrete base. We hammer a dowel-nail into a drilled hole of at least 8x100 size.

Then the shields are returned to their original place. Using a nailer, press them together as tightly as possible. With self-tapping screws for wood at least 55 mm long, the sheets are attached to the logs.

Gaps between walls and sheets are filled with polyurethane foam. After it hardens, the excess from the surface is removed with a construction knife. In the end, we get a tough, reliable surface on which both laminate and linoleum can be laid.

The next method is suitable for those who wish not only to get rid of the squeak, but also to restore the existing surface.

Then we dismantle the covering, install the sub-parquet space and put the sheets back. Then we use a grinding machine with a rigid attachment installed.

Then we prepare a mixture of epoxy glue and wood dust. We fill with this composition, the remaining empty space at the joints. After a day, when the mixture is dry, we grind the surface with a machine with a soft nozzle and cover the floor with varnish.

If the parquet does not emit unpleasant sounds, does not bulge, and there are no failures, then the floor can be leveled to give an attractive look.Scraping is the removal of a damaged, top layer from a parquet board. This process does not require any special knowledge, although it is laborious.It is important to follow the instructions in the workflow. There are eight stages of grinding. The number of stages depends on the degree of wear and the thickness of the modular sheet, five is a mandatory minimum.Scraping can be done both with special equipment (grinder) and manual (hand scraper and grinder).When using the cycle, the floor must be thoroughly moistened, a respirator is put on the face, because there will be a lot of dust. It is necessary to mentally divide the floor into strips, and from the center to the wall we begin.

First, we remove the first layer along the fibers and then across. It is important to avoid differences in height. It is not easy to do this by hand, but it is possible.

The manual scraping process can take several days. The next step is to grind the coating in a circular motion so that no irregularities remain with sandpaper.

Grinding with a special machine greatly facilitates and speeds up the work. As a rule, it is advisable to connect the equipment directly to the electrical switchboard at the entrance, since the sockets in the apartments are not always capable of withstanding a heavy load.

Before starting work, it is necessary to bury nails on the floor and remove debris. When sanding with hardware, it is necessary to process in several stages, using an emery cloth with a grit of 24-120Р. She is selected for each sex individually. The floor is pre-moistened with water.

The first step is to use a coarse sandpaper up to 40P, removing the top layer, paint and varnish. If there are irregularities or differences in height, they are eliminated at this stage.

As with manual scraping, sanding starts from the center to the walls. In hard-to-reach places, use a cylindrical grinder or grind by hand.

Next, there is direct grinding with an abrasive grain of 60-80Р, leveling after rough cleaning possible scratches and removing the remaining top layer.

After processing, the floor must be putty with a special mastic for wood or an automobile putty. Let it dry and go over the surface with a disc with a grain size of up to 120R. As a result, we get a smooth and even floor. After thorough cleaning, it can be varnished to protect it.

And finally, let's consider the question of how to take care of the parquet flooring so that it pleases us for a long time.

First, wipe the wooden floor with a damp cloth, not a wet cloth, to avoid water getting inside. You can use specialized care products for wood surfaces and parquet floors.

Secondly, special felt pads should be put on the furniture legs so as not to scratch the smooth surface. If a small creak suddenly appears, it is enough to drill a hole in the area where it occurs and pour special glue into it with a syringe.

So, now, when the need arises to repair the parquet, you can easily do it yourself, without the help of specialists.

The main thing is not to be afraid, because as you know, "The eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing."

In some high-rise buildings, the floors are made of sheets - panel parquet. This is a kind of wooden structure designed to create the appearance of the well-being of the Soviet people.

Shield size: 600 x 600 x 40 (width, length, thickness in millimeters). The shield is attached to a wooden log, which, in turn, rests on a concrete floor.

Over the years, various problems arise with such a foundation. For example, panelboard parquet creaks, sags or other defects appear. As a result, it is necessary to repair the panelboard parquet or to dismantle it and replace it with some alternative.

The bulk of people who had such problems solved this issue in a radical way - dismantling panel parquet flooring. Then, the resulting void was covered with expanded clay, poured with concrete mixture. In general, they created additional difficulties for themselves and their neighbors.

But there is another solution, less costly and time consuming. The wooden base must be sorted out and fixed. The result is an even, rigid and non-creaky base.

Stages of repair of panel board parquet.

1. General view of panel board parquet.

2. Required tool. Strong, not flimsy nailer; sledgehammer 1 ... 2 kg; hammer 600 ... 800 grams; an auxiliary nailer with a rubberized handle, a hammer drill or percussion drill, a screwdriver with a percussion back of the head.

3. The work begins with the numbering of the boards. This is done so that in the process of work, you do not have to adjust the shields to each other. In addition, an arrow is drawn to orient the location.

4. The first shield is dismantled. Depending on the configuration of the room, work starts from the wall adjacent to the window or from the opposite side. The main nailer and a sledgehammer are used.

6. Slack work of builders - an empty pit near the water supply pipe.

7. After dismantling the panelboard parquet, nails may remain in the logs, which are removed.

8. The first row of shields was removed. They are stacked against the opposite wall, according to the numbering.

9. Maybe there will be "surprises" from our "would-be builders", in the form of loose wooden stands. The latter are preliminarily fixed with polyurethane foam.

10. Using a perforator, a hole is drilled in the log. The depth of the hole is made so that the drill goes into the concrete base by at least 40 ... 50 mm.

11. A dowel-nail is driven into the hole. Size, on average, 8 x 100 (diameter, length in millimeters).

12. When drilling, carefully examine the concrete base. Cracks can get caught. The work of a punch, or rather a drill, next to this place, is fraught with the fact that from below (above, on the ceiling at the bottom of the tenant) part of the concrete structure will fall off.

13. Shields return to their places. They are pressed against each other by means of a nailer. Attached to the logs with self-tapping screws for wood. The length of the hardware must be at least 55 mm.

The gaps between the wall and the assembled sheet floors are sealed with polyurethane foam.After hardening, the last, the excess is cut off with a knife.

As a result, it turned out to be an even, hard, non-creaky base on which a decorative coating can be laid. For example, linoleum or laminate.

4,165 total views, 9 views today

Panel parquet is a large-sized multi-layer structure for finishing floors in rooms with low dynamic and static loads. Its use is relevant with a small repair budget and a willingness to care for floors with a certain frequency.

Finished parquet boards are produced in the form of squares (less often rectangles), with sides from 40 to 120 centimeters. The thickness of the sheets can reach 5 cm, the minimum is 1.5 cm. The laminated construction includes:

A massive base, usually made of pressed shavings, fiberboard or chipboard. If you wish, you can find boards with a glued pine board base, but their cost will be comparable to the price of type-setting parquet;
The upper decorative part is made of natural wood veneer. Not only wood can serve as a finishing material, but also plastic imitating it, such varieties are marked separately and are highly moisture resistant;
Finish varnished coating. It is allowed to varnish panel board parquet sheets after installation. In terms of durability and aesthetic appeal, factory varnishing is preferable.

Each shield is equipped with special locks at all ends. Snapping parquet boards into such locks allows you to assemble the coating without gaps, with a high-quality installation of the base (for installation details, see below). However, the repair of such floors is quite laborious precisely because of the assembly in locks, this will also be discussed in detail.

One of the obvious advantages of solid-panel parquet is its cost-effectiveness. In terms of price, the cost of a square of parquet floor will cost 2-3 times less than inlaid parquet made of standard planks... Installation can be done faster and easier, without the need for complicated and "dirty" work. Solid parquet boards do not need cement screed, self-leveling floors, etc.

The laying technology provides for the installation of bars, that is, it is very similar to the installation of ordinary floorboards.

However, the beauty of the exterior is far superior to the wooden floor. The decorative outer layer of the parquet from the finished panels is made of veneer sheets of various types of wood. Pine, beech, ash, hornbeam and other visually attractive types of wood can be used. The installation speed reaches 100 square meters with the completed preparatory measures, so that nothing is impossible in facing an entire apartment with large-sized parquet in one working day.

The characteristic disadvantages of finished parquet boards include a high probability of their repair within a few years after installation. The more heavy furniture or household appliances in the room, the higher the intensity of the load, the higher the creak of floors and the appearance of cracks. Therefore, the laying of dimensional parquet is relevant for bedrooms and living rooms much more than for halls or children's rooms. It cannot be used in rooms with high humidity (saunas, bathrooms).

Installation of parquet from ready-made panels is carried out on wooden logs. It should be foreseen in advance that the general level of the floor in the room will rise by the size of the laid bars + the gap for the strict horizontality of the log + the thickness of the boards. Therefore, the easiest way is to replace wooden floorboards with large parquet flooring. the logs have already been installed, they only need to be "modernized". Image - DIY parquet floor repair

Internal planks of the flooring should be placed along the short side of the room - when installing the floorboards, they do this, with the boards the situation is similar. The main condition for strength is the joining of parquet sheets on the joists... Even a small "extension" of the joining line outside the base bar will lead to low strength - and in the future not only to a creaking floor, but also to the danger of parquet breakage. With possible injury to residents.

Therefore, the logs must be accurately aligned not only horizontally using a level, but also relative to each other. Each line of the future joining can be drawn in advance, directly on the concrete base. This will simplify the laying of the base bars, eliminate possible inaccuracies.

As bars, you need to purchase square logs 50x50 mm in size, high-quality and evenly planed. It is important to check the bars for straightness even before laying, for which a quality level is used. The installation step of the bars depends on the size of the parquet boards, but not less than 50 cm. For example, for sheets measuring 100 x 100 cm, one additional beam between the seam lines is sufficient.

When laying the log, two beams are first installed at opposite ends of the room. They can be temporarily fastened to lumber pads - the main thing is that the fastening is reliable. Further, two thin twines are pulled between the opposing bars - and already focusing on them, the remaining logs are installed with exact respect to the distance.

The fixing of the bars to the floor is carried out by means of anchor bolts or self-tapping screws of the required size. It is obligatory to treat wood with antiseptic compounds to prevent the harmful effects of dampness and insects. The entire plane of parallel lags after their installation is checked again for horizontalness and strength.

Assembling the topcoat on a flat surface is quick. They start from a short wall and move towards the exit from the room. A gap of 10-15 mm is left between the wall of the rooms and the end of the parquet sheets. The boards themselves are tightly fitted to each other, the projections into the grooves are hammered into the grooves with rubber hammers through wood gaskets (so as not to damage the parquet itself). Then it remains to fix the shields to the logs.

Most repair instructions recommend nailing. It is really fast and reliable, but taking into account repair needs, it is wise to install with self-tapping screws. When using a screwdriver, the assembly speed will not be affected at all. There are screw designs with decorative caps on the heads, their color imitates natural wood. These cover plates cover the notches and are mounted flush with the surface of new floors, resulting in an outwardly invisible fastening. The pitch of the screws to be screwed is from 10 to 15 cm, depending on the thickness of the parquet.

Unfortunately, parquet made from large panels needs repair and restoration more often than other varieties, this is the price for its economy and high-speed installation. And this procedure will not be simple, do not hope. If the panel parquet creaks, the following actions must be taken: Image - DIY parquet floor repair

Pinpoint the source of the squeak. It is advisable to do this together, so as not to be mistaken at the very beginning of the repair route;
The identified problem shield is subject to investigation - perhaps it is enough to fix it to the lags with additional screws or simply tighten the existing ones;
If it was not possible to eliminate the creak with a dashing swoop, a bulkhead of the floors will be required. We'll have to remove the skirting boards from the nearest walls and "get" to the problem board. Each removed sheet is accurately marked on the wrong side for subsequent installation in its place;
The shield to be repaired is removed, inspected and, if necessary, the lags under it are strengthened. Elimination of squeak is guaranteed by adhesives and sealants, which additionally process the entire perimeter of the sheet from the inside before installation.