Do-it-yourself floor repair in an apartment chipboard

In detail: do-it-yourself floor repair in an apartment with chipboard from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

How to lay the chipboard on the floor correctly. Recommendations for stacking chipboard with your own hands, the main stages and features of work on stacking chipboard with your own hands

Chipboard acts as a leveling material for the final floor covering. It must be laid on a plank floor, on logs and on a concrete base. But due to the properties of the material to absorb moisture, it should be used only in dry rooms and precisely follow the technology of installation of all layers of the finishing floor. In the article, we will consider the features of laying chipboard on a floor made of different materials.

A large number of advantages have made chipboard a popular material for rough flooring.

If the chipboard is laid directly on the joists, then the cost of the floor will be much less than when using edged boards.
The boards have a flat surface and are suitable for laying laminate, tiles and parquet.

Chipboard has high strength and rigidity. In terms of compressive strength, it is almost equal to wood.
Provide sound and heat insulation.
Can be laid on glue, as chipboard has high adhesion.
Laying slabs is an easy task that does not require skills and special tools.
It has a long service life and is not susceptible to decay.
A compensating layer is provided in the construction of chipboard plates, it will protect the seams of the floor material from destruction under poor operating conditions.

But chipboard has drawbacks

In the manufacture of plates, formaldehyde, which is harmful to human health, is used.
They have low resistance to moisture, so their use is limited. When wet, the leaf swells and crumbles. Moisture-resistant chipboard can withstand no more than 4 wetting cycles.
It is necessary to transport carefully because of the high fragility of the edges. Often they break off, and the docking will no longer be tight.
Russian chipboard, which is used everywhere due to its low cost, is fire hazardous.
Due to the low density of the material, it is better to use self-tapping screws, since the nails will not fix it firmly enough.
Needs a mandatory topcoat, as the material is not abrasion resistant.

Video (click to play).

Plywood is more expensive than chipboard.
Plywood is made from veneer, and chipboard is made from shavings. Therefore, plywood is more resistant to moisture and mechanical stress.

Chipboard has a lock connection and is already with a decorative laminated coating, plywood is suitable only for subfloors.
Chipboard contains a phenolic component, which provides for the technology of manufacturing these boards. Plywood may or may not contain phenols harmful to humans.

Chipboard is a panel material. It is made from wood shavings and resin by pressing. Despite its excellent characteristics, it is not possible to use it for flooring in all cases.
It can be used only for residential premises, where the humidity does not exceed 60%, and the air temperature does not drop below 10 degrees.
Cannot be used in crowded places or in those rooms where a high load will be placed on the floor. Chipboard can deform and begin to collapse.
It is perfect for leveling and insulating a plank floor for laying a finishing floor covering.
When arranging a log under a chipboard, the resulting space is additionally insulated and soundproofed.

This material is perfect if you need to restore the old floor in an apartment or house, but there is no way to dismantle it or make a screed.

Tip: if the chipboard sheets are green, this means that urea-melamide resin was used instead of formaldehyde. Which not only improves moisture-resistant characteristics, but is also harmless to humans.

Sheets of grooved chipboard have a tongue / groove system, which will guarantee strong seamless joints.
The presence of ridges and grooves in the locking system also makes it possible to shorten the installation time, and the joints are particularly strong and less susceptible to deformation under high loads.
They are used as additional reinforcement for flooring, for example, on model catwalks.

Chipboard is marked by strength class. Before buying, you should read it carefully.

Chipboard PA. These are the sheets with the greatest strength. They are simple and laminated. Suitable as a topcoat in rooms with low traffic.
Chipboard with a density of less than 550 kg / m3 is used for sub-flooring and as thermal insulation.
Chipboard with a density of 500 - 750 m / 3 is recommended as a base for laminate and parquet. It levels the floor and is strong enough to be laid on logs.

According to the degree of safety for human health, the chipboard is divided into classes E-1 and E-2. They indicate that the formaldehyde content is within the normal range. But in any case, they are not recommended to be used as a topcoat, but to be used as a rough base.
Chipboard with a density of 750 kg / m3 is more moisture resistant. It withstands 2-3 wetting cycles without losing its technical characteristics. This is important if there is high humidity below (in the basement).
Also, a special marking also speaks about the moisture resistance of the material. So, the plate with the designation P5 is the most moisture resistant - when it is completely wet during the day, it swells by no more than 10%. Material marked P3 and P6 swell much more and are only suitable for dry rooms.
The thinner the chipboard sheet, the larger the step is allowed between the lags. Choosing a thickness is better than 2.4 mm. Chipboard 1.6 mm is only suitable for laying on a solid base (plank or concrete floor). But the differences in height should be minimal - up to 2 mm.

In accordance with GOST, the length of the slab can be from 1830 to 5680 mm, the width is 122 mm, and the thickness is from 10 to 38 mm.

The most popular chipboard boards, which are most often found on sale, have the following dimensions:

length 2750 mm, width 1830 mm, thickness 16 mm;
length 2440 mm, width 1830 mm, thickness 16 mm.

To calculate the required number of chipboard sheets for a room, you need to make simple calculations:

first, it calculates the area of the room by multiplying the length by the width, for example, let's take a room of 5x3 m. The floor area will be 15 m2;
then the area of one sheet of chipboard is calculated 2.75x1.83 = 5.033 m2;
now you can find out how many sheets you need, for this we divide the floor area by the area of sheet 15: 5.03 = 3 pcs. (rounded, taking into account the indents from the walls).

If chipboard is supposed to be laid directly on the concrete floor, the screed must be in perfect condition. If it is old, then all irregularities, cracks and differences in height must be leveled. And the topcoat will quickly deteriorate.

Before laying, the prepared screed is cleaned not only of debris, but also of dust with a construction vacuum cleaner. If wet cleaning was carried out, the base is allowed time to dry completely.
Before laying chipboard sheets, they are treated with moisture-resistant impregnation. Linseed oil is suitable for these purposes.
When the processing is finished, they are laid on the floor in a checkerboard pattern. To prevent squeaking, small gaps are left between the sheets.

They also make a small indent from the walls - 1 cm. The last sheets are cut to size with a jigsaw.
Chipboard is attached to concrete on dowel-nails using a perforator. There are 14-16 fasteners per sheet, which are evenly distributed along the edges, corners and center.

Wooden logs are used if the house where the work is being carried out has a wooden floor or the concrete slab is badly damaged and it is not possible to make a new screed. This is a more time consuming and costly process, but it has several advantages:

you can additionally insulate the floor and make noise insulation by placing mineral wool in the space between the logs;
additional communications are secretly carried out under the floor;
the resulting surface will be almost perfectly flat.

wooden block for logs;
chipboard plates with a thickness of 12 mm;
building level;
roulette;
screwdriver and hammer drill;
jigsaw;
dowel-nails and self-tapping screws for wood.

It is advisable to put a moisture-resistant material under the logs - a film or smear the concrete with liquid mastic (primer).
The lag at the doorway should be of the greatest strength - 5-6 cm thick.

In order for the lags to stand evenly, markings are made around the perimeter of the room with a level (preferably laser). Guided by it, log boards are attached from opposite ends of the room. A string is pulled along them, which will become a reference point for all subsequent lags.
If you need to do something above, then a piece of chipboard, plywood or OSB is laid under it. The step between the lags is the same, and in such a way that all the joints of the sheets are in the center of the boards. The maximum step is 40 cm.
Attach the bars to the anchors using a perforator.
Insulation can be laid in the resulting space. If sound insulation is also needed, then it is better to choose mineral wool, and if it is just thermal insulation, then foam plastic crumbs or ecowool, which fill the entire space. To do this, use wide boards, fastening them with self-tapping screws perpendicular to the direction of the lag with a step of 50 cm. It turns out a lattice and very strong base.
Chipboard is attached to the crate with a 10 mm distance from the wall. If necessary, the edges are trimmed so that the joint fits in the middle of the sheathing board. The sheets are staggered, the gap between them is also made 10 - 15 mm.

Self-tapping screws are twisted frequently, in 20 cm increments over the entire sheet area.
For reliable fixation, the length of the self-tapping screws must be three times the width of the chipboard. When screwing, the caps should be recessed into the material by 1 mm.
It remains only to lay the substrate and mount the finishing floor covering.

Advice: in case of improper stacking, when the sheets are placed close to each other without the provided lock connection, after a while a creak appears. How to prevent chipboard from squeaking on the floor when laying with your own hands? It is very simple, between the sheets necessarily leave gaps of 1 cm. No joints - no squeak.

Chipboard tongue-and-groove plates have a tongue / groove joint. It is made on all 4 sides, which guarantees a tight and strong connection. In addition, this facilitated the assembly, it will be done with high quality, even if the stacker is doing it for the first time.

Due to this, tongue-and-groove chipboard acquires a number of advantages at once:

simple and quick installation, which is accessible even to a non-professional;
absolutely smooth surface, no gaps;
quick and easy dismantling if necessary;
has high fracture and pressure strength characteristics. The tongue-and-groove chipboard, laid on logs with a pitch of 40 cm, without deformation, sagging and squeaking, can withstand a high load;
the tongue / groove system evenly distributes the load on the adjacent slabs through the lock connection, which makes the coating even more rigid.

Chipboard is also used to level walls and ceilings instead of drywall. For this, plates of 9 -12 mm are used. It will be an excellent base for any topcoat: plaster, wallpaper, tiles. And unlike gypsum boards, the bearing capacity of such walls is much higher.

Most manufacturers of tongue-and-groove chipboard make their material more resistant to moisture than normal. But there are no peculiarities of laying moisture-resistant chipboard with your own hands, all work is carried out according to the usual technology, which will be described below.

How to lay moisture-resistant chipboard with your own hands video

Having checked the horizontal evenness of the lag, they begin to lay the first sheet of grooved chipboard from the far wall. That is, from the opposite wall from the entrance. Fix it with self-tapping screws to the lag by the thorn. Along the perimeter, the step between the fasteners is 20 cm, in the center of the sheet 25-30 cm is allowed. By screwing the screws, the caps are deepened by 1 mm.
Before putting the second sheet, PVA glue is applied to the spike along the entire length. This will make the connection more airtight and tighter. Insert the next plate with the groove and press the joint so that the adhesive is evenly distributed. In order for the spike to fully enter the groove, a bar with a groove is applied to the sheet to be mounted and knocked on it with a hammer. In this way, the material and the connecting element will not be damaged when fitting the sheets.

This method is used to lay the entire floor. All joints are located strictly on the logs. If the subfloor made of chipboard is made in a narrow room, the logs should be located across the movement.

Laminated chipboard already has a decorative and durable top layer. Therefore, it is used as a topcoat for floors, walls and ceilings.
Such slabs necessarily have a lock connection so that the floor covering is solid and even.
To protect the joints from swelling, when moisture gets on them, all joints are glued with PVA glue during installation. And after laying, on top of all the joints are treated with paraffin. A regular white candle will do.

Chipboard floor can be done, in principle, for several reasons. Firstly, chipboard can be used as a material for leveling the floor, and on top of it, lay the main coating, for example, linoleum, cavrolin, laminate. For example, old plank floors can be leveled in this way, but it is worth remembering that the floor level will rise by at least 20-30 mm. Secondly, Chipboard for floor used for the purpose of insulation. If you put the topcoat on a bare concrete-cement screed, then in winter it will not be very comfortable for you and your loved ones to walk on such a floor. To somehow rectify the situation, pre-stack chipboard. Well, and thirdly, on top of a rough concrete screed, you can organize the so-called chipboard floor on logs.

Particle board is wood shavings mixed with resin. When such a mixture is hot pressed, the well-known chipboard is learned. Plates are produced in thicknesses of 10, 18, 20 and 30 mm. For floors, a slab with a thickness of 18-20 mm is usually used.

In the first case, that is, to level the floor with chipboard sheets, you must first prepare the old base. As a rule, plank floors are leveled in this way. Before laying chipboard, it is necessary to get rid of the creak of the boards, which almost always appears in places with increased stress, for example, aisles. Find the old place where the board is attached to the joists and use a 150mm nail to make a new connection. In this way, eliminate the creaking of the planks across the entire floor area.

When you dismantle old skirting boards, please note that there is a gap of about 10mm from the laid boards to the wall. The same gap should be observed when installing a chipboard floor. This gap for expansion of the material will later be closed by a plinth, but if it is not left, then with seasonal changes in temperature and humidity in the room, the chipboard sheets can rise, damaging the finish floor covering.

Taking into account the gap, prepare a chipboard for the entire area of the room. You will probably need to saw through the sheets. Here you need to act carefully, because the board crumbles during sawing. For a high-quality cut, use a hacksaw with fine teeth, and it is better to stick adhesive tape or molar tape along the cut line. If you need to drill a chipboard, do it with a sharp drill at high drill speeds.

Chipboard, like any material made of wood, has an extremely negative attitude to the effects of moisture, therefore, it is recommended to completely process the sheets with two layers of drying oil before laying.

Now you can start stacking sheets Chipboard on the floor... There is nothing complicated here: you lay the sheet, level it and fasten it to nails or screws to the floor. If you lay linoleum on top, then to fix the hole, you must first countersink with a large-diameter drill. Once the entire floor has been laid, again, depending on the topcoat, it may be necessary to seal the joints and fixing holes. To prepare the putty, you can mix sawdust with PVA glue, or use wood mastic. To completely hide all the irregularities, sand the seams with fine sandpaper.

Usually a concrete floor is insulated with this method. In this case, chipboard sheets are also pre-procured and processed. The prepared sheet is laid on the floor and a hole in the floor is drilled through the sheet. In this case, the drill is used with a victorious tip. Next, we fasten the sheet with self-tapping screws to the floor. We fasten it along the perimeter and along the area of the sheet, dividing it into squares. Finishing and grouting is described above.

In the article "Plywood floor on logs" the method of flooring on logs was described in great detail. All preparatory work, the process of installing the lag and the fastening of the plywood are considered. Device chipboard floor on logs is done in exactly the same way. Unless there are some nuances. Since chipboard is a less durable material, do not install the joists with a distance of more than 40 cm between them. The slab along the perimeter must necessarily lie on the logs, often because of the large size of the chipboard, they forget about this at the stage of installing the log. It is possible to fasten chipboard to the logs with nails every 20 cm, and with self-tapping screws, while the distance between them can be increased to 40-50 cm.

In conclusion, I would like to note that many do not like chipboard because of the prevailing opinion about its harm to health. Harmful in it are phenol-formaldehyde resins, which are used in the production of chipboard. To believe or not to believe the prevailing opinion is decided individually. Manufacturers claim that modern particle board is no more harmful than wood, however, people who work with particle board, I think, would not use it at home.

The main advantage of chipboard is its cost. It is about half the price of plywood or OSB. You can make both plywood and OSB flooring on logs, but if we talk about environmental friendliness and not ask “the price of a question”, then natural wood would be the best option. Putting a massive board on the same logs, there will be no need for a topcoat. However, this is no longer a budget option.

If the building rules are violated, the floor starts to creak. Only one remedy will help to solve the problem - the elimination of the squeak of the floor from the chipboard. Boards do not tolerate high humidity, therefore such a floor cannot be made in sanitary facilities. Plates are laid on logs made of wood, which must first be treated with an antiseptic.

Chipboard floors can be easily dismantled and reassembled if necessary.

screwdriver;
electric planer;
grinder;
hammer;
fasteners;
roulette;
rail;
chisel;
ruler.

Scheme of floor cladding with fiberboard sheets.

The average step size for laying logs is 40 cm. Before starting construction, all joints and openings of the floor slab must be repaired. The subfloor must be clean and dry. Clean dry sand is poured onto it with a layer of no more than 20 mm. A layer of soundproofing material made of fiberboard sheets is placed on top. Well-dried and antiseptic-treated logs are laid across the direction of light.

Laying logs from undried lumber is sure to create problems. The floor will squeak immediately after the lumber is dry. The lags must be laid on the same level, which is checked by the rail. Moreover, it should simultaneously touch all lags. In places where gaps are detected under the logs, linings are made that stabilize their vibrations during further use of the floor.The unevenness can be corrected by undercutting the surface of the log with a plane.

Taking into account the distance between the lags laid on the floor, prepare the required amount of chipboard. Saw them off with a width equal to this distance with an allowance necessary for filing the edges. Usually this is 10-15 cm. When planning the installation scheme, a large number of joints should be avoided. The allowable seam distance is 1-2 mm.

For a tighter fastening of the edges of the plates, they must be laid on the logs. To fix them along the length, transverse logs are laid.

Floor repair with glue and a syringe.

In rooms with low traffic, the floor can be made of chipboard.

During operation, the weakening of the fasteners is possible, then a creak appears when walking on the floor. If it is already many years old and there is an opportunity to make a new floor from a more modern and high-quality material, then it is better, of course, to replace it. This is the most expensive way.

To eliminate the squeak of the floor, you can screw several screws around the perimeter of such a plate. This is the easiest method and is used most often. The floor is guaranteed not to squeak for 2-3 years.

Another way is to install an additional support at the location of the defect. To do this, it is necessary to determine the distance from the sound-insulating layer (fiberboard) to the floor slab.

Having determined the slab to be repaired, a small diameter hole is drilled in it and measured with a steel wire. You need to purchase self-tapping screws with a length exceeding this distance. Screw the self-tapping screws into the previously drilled holes. If the self-tapping screws touch the floor slab, stop screwing in, otherwise the floor covering may rise.

Sawing of the fastener heads with a grinder is carried out only after their final adjustment (screwing in or loosening).

In order to eliminate the squeak, it is possible to carry out a partial repair of the chipboard floor. It is necessary to determine which part of the slab makes a creak and must be replaced. Make the markup so that when cutting out the defective area, you do not get on the lags. Cut it out with a jigsaw. Prepare a block of the required height and lay it between the logs.

Fasten the new sheet with self-tapping screws to the logs and the additionally laid bar.

This type of floor repair will relieve squeaks for a long time.

If the parquet floor is old, it is best to replace it. But sometimes only a few loose rivets can be replaced. They need to be broken with a chisel and carefully removed without damaging the rest of the coating. If the fluctuation of the floor is large, then most of the flooring is exposed. If necessary, you need to check the base of the floor, repair the screed, leveling it with a cement mortar. Small defects can be removed with a putty. If the rivets were laid on a wooden flooring or chipboard, then you need to install additional joists and lay the slabs of the new parquet. They must be matched in size and pattern. Sometimes it is necessary to trim them to size. Old but serviceable rivets are cleaned of fastening residues. Put in place and check the correctness of installation with a rail. If necessary, do the sharpening with a grinder.From the author: Hi all! Recently my parents started renovations in their house and I, like a good son, simply had to take part in this event. With mom, we chose wallpaper, furniture and decorative elements, and with dad - everything else. They decided to leave the windows and doors the same, but the floor had to be replaced. Here my father and I had a lot of questions - "What to lay on the floor surface?", "How to insulate a concrete base?", "How to save money on floor repairs?" and others. Then we started looking for answers on the Internet. We opted for chipboard, and you know - we do not regret it a bit. We will share with you the experience gained during the work and tell you how to lay the chipboard on the floor without the help of specialists.Since repairs always cost a pretty penny, and our budget was limited, we were looking for a material that performs several functions at the most affordable price.And, our choice fell on chipboard. Of course, there were a lot of doubts, because the reviews of professionals are completely opposite, but my father and I took a chance. Chipboard has a lot of positive aspects:

perfectly copes with the function of leveling the floor surface;

it is much cheaper than its counterparts (plywood and wood);

serves as an excellent base for decorative coating;

acts as a heater for a concrete base;

spreads quickly and easily.

But do not think that this material is ideal and can be used anywhere. In fact, chipboard has rather modest characteristics, for example, it is afraid of moisture, fire and high loads. And all his slack depends on the structure, because the plate consists of pressed wood shavings.If you decide to put such plates in a very walkable room - stop and think about another material. For an apartment or a private house, chipboard is ideal, the main thing is to figure out how to lay it correctly.There are two ways to lay chipboard on a concrete base. In the first case, the slabs are laid directly on the concrete, but there is one caveat - the base must have a perfectly flat surface. If your floor has unevenness, then before laying, fill the screed, dry the base, clean it from debris and dust. Then follow this scheme:

We cut out the chipboard and treat it with antiseptic preparations.

We spread it on the floor surface, leaving gaps of 10-15 mm between the outer sheets and walls.

Using a punch, we make holes in concrete and slabs.

Using the dowels, we fix the chipboard to the base.

The second method is ideal for those who do not want to mess with the screed or simply do not know how to do it. In this case, the slabs are not laid on the concrete itself, but on the logs. Having laid the chipboard on a concrete surface, no matter how loud it sounds, you will kill two birds with one stone - level and insulate the surface. Plus, an additional layer of insulation can be added to the free space between the lags.My father and I chose this particular method - we made the floors from chipboard slabs on the logs with our own hands and were able to save a lot of money and time, because the concrete screed dries from 3-4 weeks. It is necessary to place logs more often than, for example, when covering the floor with grooved boards, because chipboards are much more fragile. The lag function can be performed by bars. So, the work is done according to the following scheme:

We install our logs: the extreme ones at a distance of 20-30 cm from the walls, the next ones - 40 cm from each other. We place them in one plane and fix them with anchors. It is advisable to put a wooden wedge under each log.

If desired, fill the free space between the logs with an additional layer of heat insulator.

We cut out the sheets and lay them, again leaving a gap of 10-15 mm near the walls. Make sure that the joints of the slabs fall only on the center of the lag - this will allow you to make a reliable fix. For fasteners, we use screws or nails (the distance between them should not exceed 3 cm). The hats should fit snugly into the chipboard so as not to create unevenness on the subfloor.

We try to lay the slabs so that gaps and gaps do not form at the joints. If, nevertheless, everything did not work out correctly, then you can get rid of them at the end of the installation using a putty.

Revision of an old wooden floor. At this stage, it is necessary to check the integrity of all structural elements. Pay attention not only to the break, but also to the presence of fungus, mold, and decay.
Replacement of damaged parts. If, nevertheless, the damaged boards were found, they must be urgently replaced.
Checking fasteners. This stage involves checking all the places where the boards are attached to the joists. Make sure your floor is firmly in place and does not have squeaky spots. If, nevertheless, flaws were found, change the mounts.
Main part. We lay the sheets, check that they are on the same level and fasten them to the floor with self-tapping screws. Do not forget to leave a gap of 10-15 cm near the walls.

In the video, you can clearly see how easy it is to lay chipboard with your own hands:

But what if the chipboard floor is already laid but needs a leveling procedure? Of course, the simple answer is that it is better to remove the entire cover and replace it. But not every person has a reserve of time and money for this. And how to level the surface so that the decay process does not start under the decorative coating?Friends, the answers to these questions are pretty simple. Firstly, it seems to me that the chipboard simply disintegrates into the original shavings, and does not rot (if I am wrong, write in the comments J). Secondly, the correction of such coverage is done as follows:

cut off the bulges;

depressions - putty.

If the differences on the floor surface are small (up to 5 mm), then the putty will be the best solution. Its consumption with such irregularities will be quite modest. And there is nothing to do there: we measure it with the rule and the level and mark the places that need filling. If the room is 20 sq. m or even less, then 4 trowels of putty (dry) will be enough for you.Friends, that's all I wanted to tell you about chipboard boards and their installation. I hope you have learned a lot of useful information from the article and now you can cover your floor with chipboards without unpleasant consequences. Comment, share with friends and subscribe to the newsletter of our site in social networks. Until next time!In accordance with current legislation, the Administration disclaims any representations and warranties, the provision of which may otherwise be implied, and disclaims responsibility in relation to the Site, the Content and its use.
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What is needed for work

Preparation for laying chipboard

Laying chipboard on the old floor

Laying chipboard on concrete

When carrying out repairs in an apartment, you often have to deal with floor repairs. This is a rather laborious and difficult matter. To work, you need to have a tool and some professional skills.Installation of "black" floor from sheet materials.But in most cases, all the work can be done on your own and you can update the floor yourself.To complete the work you need:

chipboard sheets;

wooden logs (optimal section 5x10 cm);

self-tapping screws for fastening;

joiner's hacksaw;

hammer;

dowels;

screwdriver;

nails;

construction stapler;

nail puller;

Sander.

First you need to carefully examine the floor and identify all its defects. Before inspection, it is necessary to remove all furniture from the room, remove dirt and debris. If, upon inspection, numerous flaws, uneven wear, and the appearance of rot are noticed, then a complete replacement of the flooring may be required. In this case, you will have to disassemble the entire floor.To dismantle the old floor, you need to remove the skirting boards and disassemble the entire floor or part of it that has become unusable. Lags are cleaned of dirt and checked for mold, fungus, insect larvae. Some damaged lags can be replaced. All new and old wooden structures must be treated with an antiseptic compound.As a new covering, you can use: floorboards made of oak, maple, larch wood; waterproof plywood 16-18 mm thick; chipboard (chipboard). They consist of wood shavings, which are mixed with resin and hot pressed. As a result of pressing, plates with a thickness of 10 to 30 mm are obtained. They are used in the manufacture of furniture, in construction. For floors, material with a thickness of 18-20 mm is most often used. The slabs should be spaced at intervals of 400 mm.Tongue floor panels are produced from chipboard. These panels can also have a smooth edge. Any panels begin to be laid from the corner of the room. A distance of about 10 mm should remain from the edge of the material to the wall along the entire perimeter of the room.The edges of the panels can be coated with PVA glue to achieve a tighter and stronger connection. The end joints of the panels must be staggered along the floor surface.A person is constantly in contact with sex. Therefore, its arrangement and decoration are important. This part of the house or apartment should be flat, highly durable, and not difficult to clean. The floor must be sufficiently warm and dry. Quite flat and solid floors can be made from chipboard. They can serve as the basis for laying carpet or polymer flooring. The sheets of this coating are easy to work with. No special tools are required to process them. There is not much garbage left after work. You just need to try to cut the material economically.Diagram of the device of the concrete floor.Chipboard on the floor is an excellent option for repairing and leveling an old floor from boards. You just need to attach the sheets to the floor surface, observing the correct joints. To ensure sound insulation, a layer of construction felt can be placed under them. In this case, it is recommended to choose chipboard with a thickness of 21 mm. The material is fixed to the surface of the old floor most often with screws and self-tapping screws, less often glue is used.A very flat floor surface can be obtained by using chipboard with dovetail edged edges. It is not recommended to lay a floor from chipboard in residential premises, which contain formaldehyde resins. During operation, resins evaporate from such material with the release of a large amount of toxic substances.Before laying on the floor, it is recommended to treat the material twice with linseed oil. There are very high density chipboard slabs. In this case, you can pre-drill holes of a smaller diameter for self-tapping screws. The caps of the fasteners should be deepened by 0.5-1 mm, then the recesses should be repaired with putty.When arranging thermal insulation under a chipboard, one must not forget that the crate should be ideally located exactly in the horizontal plane. The sheets should rest on it with their entire surface. It is not recommended to make the distance between the longitudinal elements of the lathing more than 40 cm. Only in this case the chipboard floor will have sufficient strength. All board joints must be carefully sanded. Otherwise, even the most imperceptible drop can become noticeable when laying polymer or carpet.