Practice shows that renovating a bathroom floor is a responsible and difficult undertaking. At each stage of work there are certain difficulties that only a real master will be able to cope with. Not only beauty, but also the service life and safety of the new floor will depend on the quality of the preparation of the base, waterproofing, pouring the screed and finishing. Therefore, if you do not have a lot of experience in carrying out such work, it is better to trust the specialists and after a while get a qualitatively repaired floor in the bathroom.
So you've decided to update your bathroom interior and renovate it. Repair of the bathroom floor must be done at the final stage of the repair, this is done in order to hide all the irregularities at the junction between the floor and the walls.
First of all, you need to completely get rid of the old flooring, clean the surface of dirt and debris.
It is imperative to waterproof the bathroom floor because it is very often wet. A thick cement screed is laid on the concrete base. Moreover, it should dry well.
Now, for the water to pass through the entire thickness of the protective layer, it will take a lot of time.
Before laying the facing layer of the floor covering, an additional layer of vapor barrier must be applied to the floor screed.
In the bathroom, underfloor heating has become a prerequisite for modern comfort. You get great pleasure when you stand barefoot on the warm smooth surface of the tile.
The warm floor in the bathroom is mounted on top of a special heat-insulating material, according to the technical specifications (TU) for the selected type of floor.
Most often, tiles are used for finishing the bathroom floor. Its surface has a beautiful appearance, dirt is easily cleaned off from it. In addition, it goes well with tiled walls. And yet, due to a sufficiently thick layer of tile adhesive, an additional layer of moisture insulation is created.
Placing a wooden floor in a bathroom is not practical. Water can always seep under the boards, they will swell and, as a result, warp.
Moreover, high humidity contributes to wood decay, which reduces the life of the floor. And it is dangerous to impregnate with a special moisture-proof compound that protects the boards from moisture, since it is unknown the reaction of this composition to the effects of high temperature and water vapor.
Careful attention should be paid to the color of the floor covering, regardless of the type of material used for the renovation.
If it is too dark, the room will look gloomy and cramped. On an overly light floor, all the dirt will be immediately noticeable, which makes it immediately unattractive.
The most optimal solution is this - you should choose colors for finishing the floor, slightly darker than the color of the walls. In short, when you decide to do your own bathroom floor repair yourself, you will have to think about all this.
P.S. And for dessert I suggest watching a video clip: Repair. Filling the floor
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When renovating a bathroom, the importance of the correct implementation of the floor screed is not always taken into account. Often, this stage is carefully carried out only during the arrangement of an apartment in a new building. However, in old houses it is sometimes simply impossible to carry out a high-quality renovation of premises without laying a new sub-floor.
The screed contributes to the correct distribution of the load on the floor from furniture and household appliances, and will also reduce the negative consequences of small leaks in the bathroom. It is important to know the technology of such work and their features. Let's take a closer look at how to make a floor screed in the bathroom.
It should be noted that the process of arranging the base screed is quite laborious. It is, of course, necessary to start with dismantling the old floor.
Dismantling the floor during renovation
After the old screed is removed, you will have to tinker with cleaning the room. As a rule, you need to collect and take out a large amount of construction waste, clean and prepare the surface well.
Before making a bathroom floor, a thorough preparation is recommended. Laying a new screed is accompanied by many additional works that necessarily precede installation.
This is the first thing you need to take care of when finishing your bathroom floor. It should be noted that standard polyethylene as a waterproofing material is not the best choice. The cement screed eats away at it, and a few years after the repair, the insulation deck simply won't be there.
In the bathroom, you cannot do without reliable waterproofing. If even minor flooding occurs, you can fill the ceilings in the apartment from below. This will entail high repair costs for neighbors. Consequently, the materials for laying on the floor should be chosen the most durable. It is better to purchase bituminous mastic or special material in rolls for insulation.
Bituminous mastic for insulation
A layer of bitumen is applied to the prepared clean floor surface.Then waterproofing flooring is made on top. Better to choose rubberized rolls. The material is heated with a gas burner and glued to the base with bitumen mastic.
Do not forget to cover the bottom sections of the walls with waterproofing at a height of about 150-200 millimeters.
It is also advisable to cover with insulating material those sections of the floor in which the risers are placed.
When making repairs to the bathroom floor with your own hands, you also need to take care of thermal insulation. Insulation of the screed itself is an important stage of work, but the effect of this procedure will seem insignificant, if you do not additionally provide for a floor heating system. By equipping your bathroom with a warm floor, you can immediately feel all the advantages of these modern designs.
Underfloor heating systems save energy and create a cozy and comfortable atmosphere in the room. Warm floors allow you to walk barefoot on tiles without fear of catching a cold.
Today, a large assortment of various underfloor heating systems is on sale. Some of them consume very little electricity, so this design will not "eat up" the entire family budget. There are cable models that only need 500 watts to heat the floor in a small bathroom. If you opt for a water-heated floor, you will save even more.
In order to properly insulate the floor screed, a sheet of foam plastic is laid on the waterproofing, having a thickness of about 50 millimeters. A special screen is placed on top of it, which will conduct heat into the room from heating devices.
Floor insulation with foam
The next step involves the laying of a reinforcing steel mesh with a honeycomb structure. The size of the holes in it is 100X100 millimeters, and the thickness of the wire is 2 - 3 millimeters.
In the case of installing a floor with a water circuit, a pipeline must be laid down after the mesh. An electric underfloor heating is laid differently - the heating elements of the structure are installed on the finished screed.
Since standard bathrooms and toilets are relatively small, the process of working on the screed or pouring the floor in the bathroom with your own hands is easier and faster. The small area of the room also makes it possible to simplify the installation of beacons.
The process of pouring the floor on the lighthouses
In work, it is necessary to use a long rack level (about two meters). Lighthouses are laid on slides of cement mortar, laid out in a line with gaps between them equal to 0.5 m. The function of the lighthouses is performed by guide profiles for drywall ud. They are inserted into the solution, and then the position of the beacon is checked using a level. Then, having measured the desired width from the first, a second beacon is set up.
Now the level needs to be set on two beacons at once, but the general installation principle remains the same. Remember to check for clear horizontal alignment when installing the guides. You need to pay attention to the second beacon itself, and to the distance between the first and the second. Then, following the above technique, place the remaining screed profiles.
Filling the base on the lighthouses
In cases where the floor is poured on top of the foam, it must be cut off at the installation points of the beacons. These are places with located "mounds" of cement. If the styrofoam is left on, the beacons may move. Before pouring the floor in the bathroom with your own hands under the tiles, you must take this nuance into account. The "playing" beacons will make the screed uneven, and this, in turn, will complicate the process of finishing with tiles and will require a large amount of tile adhesive.
The screed in the bathroom under the tiles should not be too thin. Otherwise, cracks may appear in it. The fill thickness is usually at least 50 mm. This is important to remember when installing beacons. To install them, the height is marked from the floor itself or from the foam sheet.
First of all, in order to make high-quality floors in the bathroom with your own hands, you need to properly prepare the solution. Cement and sand are prepared.
Preparation of cement slurry
In this case, it is important to determine the proportions. The answer to the question of what mixture to fill the bathroom floor with depends on the type of foundation for the fill. If you need to pour the concrete base immediately, a solution in a ratio of 1: 4 is suitable. This is 1 part cement and 4 parts sand. The foam screed involves using a mixture in a ratio of 1: 3. In this case, you need to take three parts of sand.
The mixed pouring compound is poured onto the floor surface between the beacons and leveled using a building rule. The tool is placed with both ends on the beacons located next to each other.
Leveling the cement screed floor by rule
Thus, the entire screed is gradually poured into the bathroom. During work, it is necessary to ensure that the solution is laid strictly at the level of the beacons.
After a day, the fill will harden a little. Then you can remove the guides, and cover the grooves left from them with cement.
The next step is to level the surface, smooth out all the protrusions and irregularities. This is done with the pointed end of the rule. After that, the rough jellied floor in the bathroom is covered with a thin plastic wrap and left to dry.
The finished screed must dry
Polyethylene reduces water evaporation and makes the concrete screed more durable.
As a rule, floor leveling mortars are made from gypsum or cement. The latter are preferable for toilets and bathrooms. Pouring mixtures are produced in special paper bags with a polyethylene backing. It protects the material from moisture penetration.
Mix for dry floor screed
Do not allow water to enter the package, since damp solutions are absolutely not suitable for creating a strong and even screed.
It is also important to check the expiration date of the products. Each mixture is designed for a specific period of use. Settled material can impair the quality of the ready-to-fill floor mortar.
Manufacturers often include various modifying components in the leveling mixtures. Such additives can make the coating better, as well as make the finished solution more plastic, which is important during the repair process.
For example, special synthetic fibers reduce the chance of cracking when the screed hardens. A screed based on a solution with such substances can even be used as a finishing floor covering.
There are these types of mixtures:
Leveling .Self-leveling .
Self-leveling floor screed
The first type of mortar is used as an external surface finish. They allow you to get rid of defects and protrusions in the coating. The mixture must be applied in a thick layer, which makes it possible to get a smooth base in the end.
The screed itself is also classified in a certain way according to the property and state of the material:
Dry screeds .Semi-dry .Wet .So, a wet screed is considered the easiest to perform. It is composed of concrete and sand. The composition prepared in this way is poured onto the rough floor and distributed over its surface.
However, this fill takes a long time to dry.
A wet screed is made on thermal insulation or waterproofing material. The heat-insulating layer is used for decoration in country houses and in apartments on the first floors of buildings. A wet screed with two leveling layers is also used. This option is necessary if you plan to finish with linoleum or parquet. The so-called knitted tie is suitable for living quarters.
Semi-dry screed also includes sand and cement. However, unlike wet pouring, plasticizing agents and other components are added to these mixtures. Thanks to the presence of these additives, the semi-dry screed dries faster and with its help you can easily level the base, removing all bumps and protrusions.
Leveling the substrate with a semi-dry mixture
It also requires less water to mix. This will make the outdoor structure lighter and more durable.
A dry type of screed is a composite product of several layers. Crushed stone or expanded clay is placed on the lower level, and gypsum fiber is placed on top. It is not difficult to install such a floor without leaving a lot of dirt. However, the dry finish of the substrate has a significant disadvantage: it cannot withstand heavy loads.
When performing repair work, it is necessary that the air temperature in the room where the floor is poured does not fall below +5 degrees and does not exceed +25. Humidity should be no more than 90%.
Drafts should be avoided during work, as they impair the quality of the screed. It is necessary to calculate in advance the time for drying the poured base, sometimes with a margin, since some types of compounds will "set" for a long time.
When preparing the mixture for pouring, it is necessary to observe the proportions and all the instructions that the manufacturers list in the instructions on the package.
For some time after the end of the work, while the floor is still freshly filled, it is better not to walk on it. Especially this advice should be heeded by those owners who decided to make the base screed on foam. To remove the beacons, you can put wide sheets of OSB on the surface after processing. This protection will prevent damage to the newly flooded floor.
After the screed has dried, beacons should be removed
The floor level must be taken into account when installing the beacons. The bathroom floor should be slightly lower than in the rest of the apartment. This threshold avoids flooding.
Thus, the process of self-pouring the floor in the bathroom is a type of repair work that is quite accessible to every owner. It is only necessary to use high-quality materials for the screed and observe the technology and all stages of the filling.
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Dismantling the floor during renovation
Bituminous mastic for insulation
Floor insulation with foam
The process of pouring the floor on the lighthouses
Filling the base on the lighthouses
Preparation of cement slurry
Leveling the cement screed floor by rule
The finished screed must dry
After the screed has dried, beacons should be removed
Many home craftsmen do not know where to start repairs in the bathroom and in what sequence to perform such work. We have prepared detailed and understandable instructions.
The room in which we receive water treatments is considered to be very specific. Serious humidity and temperature fluctuations are constantly present here; water pours in large volumes. It is clear that for the repair of such a room, it is necessary to select special materials that are able to withstand all negative influences. For the decoration of the premises of interest to us, they usually choose:
plastic panels;
porcelain stoneware;
tile (for wall and floor decoration).
These materials have the required qualities, allowing them to be used in a room where there is steam and high temperatures.
Bathroom decoration with plastic panels
In addition, the bathroom should have a special atmosphere conducive to human relaxation. This means that you need to competently think over the design of this room and choose the right color scheme. Most often, bathrooms are performed in pastel colors that do not irritate a person, but, on the contrary, soothe his nervous system after a busy day. Professional designers recommend finishing sanitary ware with products of beige, blue, peach, blue shades.
Thus, bathroom renovation should begin with drawing up a design project, selecting and purchasing the required materials.At this stage, you will need to foresee a lot of little things and purchase a lot of different products, ranging from sewer pipes and adhesive for installing tiles and ending with valves and a heated towel rail.
Now you need to decide on the scope of work and draw up a plan for their implementation. The sequence for self-repairing a bathroom is usually as follows:
Preparing the room for renovation activities.
Analysis of the condition of the existing flooring and the choice of technology for its restoration or complete replacement.
Floor repair, insulation and waterproofing.
Installation of sewer and water pipes.
Laying of electrical wiring.
Plastering of ceiling and wall surfaces, covering them with the selected material and insulation.
Installation of an efficient ventilation system.
Installation of sanitary equipment.
The given sequence will allow you to spend a minimum of time on giving the room for water procedures the ideal look.
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Where to start preparing the described room for its complete transformation with your own hands? Of course, with the dismantling of all plumbing fixtures installed in it, as well as furniture (if any), lighting fixtures, mirrors and hanging structures. If you're doing a major bathroom renovation, be sure to remove your faucets and faucets.
Removing old tiles in the bathroom
After that, proceed with the removal of old finishing materials. Remove the cladding from the walls and ceiling, knock down the ceramic tiles (along with the layer of glue that held them), rinse off the paint. If you have a punch, the preparation of the bathroom for a good repair is much faster - feel free to knock down everything that leaves the ceiling and walls. Your task is to get to the brick or panel masonry and floor slabs.
After such actions, it will be necessary to align the walls in the bathroom, which you "bared", and carefully treat them with primers. You should choose them wisely. Do not forget that now there are a variety of primers - bioprotective, hydrophobic, contact, increasing adhesion, strengthening. If you do not know what kind of composition you need to purchase, be sure to consult with a specialist. Real help in this matter is often provided by consultants of good construction stores.
The next step in preparing the bathroom is to revise the floor covering. When the old screed showed itself exclusively from the best side during operation (for example, you forgot to turn off the water, it flowed for a couple of hours, while a drop of moisture did not seep to the neighbors below), leave it. If the tie has clearly served its purpose, it must be removed.
This operation is performed with a perforator with a chisel. The old cementitious tile backing can also be removed with these tools. An important point! If you will not touch the old screed, it is better to clean the substrate with a grinder equipped with a grinding cup-shaped wheel (usually called a diamond cup). The cost of such a device is quite high. But it will always come in handy for the master who does all the housework with his own hands.
Now you can sweep out all the dirt and debris and proceed directly to the repair work.
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It is recommended to make the screed with a solution consisting of the following components:
sifted quartz sand;
cement M500 (you can also take M400);
PVA emulsion;
water.
The ratio of cement to sand is 1 to 4. You need to mix the same amount of water as you do cement. It is most convenient to form a screed with your own hands using marker beacons. The mixture is applied in a layer of about 4–5 cm, rubbed with a building rule, after which it must be carefully smoothed with a polyurethane foam or stainless steel polisher to an ideal state (no cracks, swells and other defects). Very important! A made screed based on sand and cement must not be touched for 40 days.During this time, no work in the bathroom must be performed.
Create a new concrete floor screed
Waterproofing a room with high humidity is best done with polyester or aquaizol materials. Do not use ordinary waterproof film for this purpose. Lay the waterproofing material as carefully as possible, the joints between its individual parts are connected in two ways:
Building hairdryer.
By gluing mastic with a special composition.
The waterproofing is installed on the walls by 25-30 centimeters. Note that in the corners of the room, the presence of cuts in the moisture-proof film is not allowed. Better fold the insulating material, make folds. But never cut the film.
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It is almost impossible to see open sewer pipelines in apartments these days. Such communications spoil the whole look of the bathroom, nullify all the tricks of the designers. Shtrob the walls in order to hide the pipes is also not an option. This procedure is very tiring, dusty and really time-consuming.
Installation of piping in the bathroom
For this reason, sewer pipes are now most often installed according to a special technique - they are launched along the bottom in a bundle, and then masked with galvanized slopes. The latter can then be easily glued with silicone tiles (facing). The silicone composition is used for fixing the slope from the floor surface and to the wall.
Unfortunately, repairs in the bathroom cannot be done without shading at all. In any case, you will need to make two grooves for cases when a separate mixer is installed on the washbasin, or one if a common mixer is used. One thing calms down - the length of the strobes will be minimal. In addition, they are positioned vertically. It is relatively easy to punch them with your own hands, which cannot be said about horizontal strobes.
For a heated towel rail, it is advisable to install metal-plastic pipes. You shouldn't even look for other options these days. Such tubular products are ideal for use. They can be easily folded down and sloped using transition fittings.
But for the cold water supply system in the bathroom, polypropylene pipes (PPN) are more suitable. They are easily welded into a solid and reliable monolithic structure, and then hidden in the walls. It should be said right away that it is advisable to purchase fittings for such pipes from solid plastic. It is impractical to use metal reinforcement elements. They can leak at any time. But the sealed plastic will never let water through.
The installation of the pipeline should begin with the installation of sewer pipes. Using sealant and seals, you will spend no more than one day assembling them. After that, feel free to install polypropylene products for cold water and solder them. Be sure to blow out the pipes in the grooves with polyurethane foam. This will ensure that the pipeline does not fog up. And the heat loss in this case will be significantly reduced. Follow the recommended piping sequence and your bathroom repairs will go faster.
Electrical wiring is carried out with a cable protected by a double insulating layer. It is desirable to place the wire in a metal or plastic corrugation. It is better to use a metal sheath as it shields the wiring perfectly.
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Having dealt with the communications, proceed to the processing of wall surfaces. Plastering of the walls is carried out in two compositions - starting (it has increased tenacity) and finishing. The latter perfectly levels the treated surface. Plastering is necessary from the ceiling to the floor.
The following stages of repair work:
Ceiling insulation and cladding. It is recommended to perform thermal insulation in the form of a cake, consisting of two glass-magnesium sheets and a heater placed between them.The cladding can be made with clapboard (plastic) or laminated boards, which are fixed to the ceiling with construction silicone or strong assembly glue.
Laying tiles on the floor. The sequence of the operation is as follows - mount the products with glue, starting from the door, tap each tile with a hammer (rubber). All trimmed rows should be installed last and after the adhesive under the remaining rows has completely hardened.
Wall covering. It is produced with plastic panels, porcelain stoneware, ordinary tiles.
VIDEO That, in principle, is the whole step-by-step plan for self-repairing a bathroom. You just need to start implementing it and after a while enjoy the new look of your room for water treatments.
To arrange a comfortable, beautiful and practical bathroom floor, it is necessary to find a balance between the technical capabilities of the construction of this floor area and the desired finish of the floor, which determines all of its consumer qualities.
Here are the main problems that need to be addressed:
Possibilities for waterproofing devices.
The ability to apply the desired flooring.
The ability to perform all the necessary work of the selected option in the room where people live.
Waterproofing the bathroom floor is required by the apartment building code. Even in an individual house, its arrangement is beneficial - this protective structure will ensure the safety of the underlying premises.
The easiest way is to arrange the bathroom floor on a monolithic or prefabricated reinforced concrete floor. This design makes it possible to arrange all the necessary layers of durable and rigid materials based on cement mortars. There is no need to limit yourself in the choice of waterproofing and face layer - on this basis, you can do anything you want.
Many other types of prefabricated and monolithic floors, both old and modern, have the same qualities. For example - structures on steel or reinforced concrete beams with different types of filling, prefabricated structures from concrete and ceramic elements.
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A little more complicated is the arrangement of the bathroom floor using wooden beams - this type of construction is retained in some old apartment buildings and detached houses. Due to the fact that modern wooden floors are advantageous to do in some cases and in houses of new construction, the installation of a floor for such a bathroom is important now.
Natural limitations for wooden beams and some other types of floors are associated with the following features:
the need for very reliable waterproofing of wooden and steel beams;
restrictions on the weight of floor structures associated with the bearing capacity of the floor;
the risk of deformations associated with the characteristics of timber beams and timber decking on them.
When planning a DIY floor for your own bathroom, the home craftsman must first of all assess the technical capabilities for the device of the desired surface finish. This is the basic floor construction (bottom to top):
Floor structures are most often a reinforced concrete slab.
Leveling screed.
Waterproofing layer.
Leveling screed.
Flooring.
You need to make sure that all the required layers are placed in the space above the floor structures to the level of the finished floor. This is important both for new-built houses and for old ones, where bathroom floor repairs are being carried out.In almost all houses, builders have provided the necessary distance from the floor to the clean floor, so that for a floor of a conventional structure, all the necessary layers can be made, even taking into account that the floor in the bathroom should be 20 mm lower than the clean floor in the living quarters.
Perhaps the volume from the slab to the clean floor will not be enough for a water heating device, the use of floor finishes from elements of significant thickness. In this case, the floor for your own bathroom can be made with certain deviations from the usual solutions in order to save space for the implementation of the plan. Here's what you can do to make the layers of your floor structure thinner:
use the thinnest screeds from self-leveling mixtures;
use electric heating instead of a water-heated floor;
arrange coating waterproofing together with gluing.
In any case, when thinking about the floor in the bathroom, it is important to carefully measure the available spaces and calculate layer by layer all the structures that are planned to be made with your own hands. A written list of floor layers with an indication of their thickness will fully correspond to a professional design solution made by a specialist.
The floor for any bathroom begins with a leveling screed - it is necessary for reliable waterproofing. If the surface of the monolithic reinforced concrete of the floor is sufficiently flat, this screed can be omitted, but waterproofing can be arranged directly on such a slab.
The glued waterproofing is carried out with roofing material glued on a bituminous mastic. This technology has proven its reliability for over a hundred years. The corners must be carefully formed - without fractures and air bubbles, and the edges of the roofing material are brought onto the walls by 50-100mm. A block can be laid in the place of the threshold, over time it will be replaced by the threshold of the box, to which it is necessary to glue the corresponding lapel of roofing material.
If the height of the clean floor relative to the overlap is large, you can reach this level with the help of sheet extruded polyurethane foam - EPS, it is easier than arranging a thick screed. EPPS sheets are laid on a layer of waterproofing, and the next layer of screed is made on top of them.
On top of the waterproofing, you can arrange the distribution of water and sewer pipes - they will be hidden by the next screed. The height of this subsequent screed is usually higher than the lower one - it can reach 40-50 mm or more. When performing the bathroom floor on your own, it is best to count on the fact that you will not be able to get the flat surface of the second thick screed with your own hands with high accuracy. It is much better to finish this screed with a layer of self-leveling cement based mortar. On such an even base, any finish is easy to perform - it is important to precisely maintain only the level of the surface of this second screed.
After the end of the second screed, it is time to lay the floor covering, for which it must be selected in time.
Preparing walls for tiles in the bathroom - read how to do it right in our publication.
How to properly decorate a bathroom under a tree, what you need to consider, read this article.
This is what you need to consider when prescribing floor finishes.
The most common ceramic tile coating is durable, wear-resistant, beautiful, practical to maintain and clean. Disadvantages include a feeling of coldness and a slight risk of slipping. Floor tiles are much stronger than wall tiles and have a less slippery matte surface. It is advantageous to arrange such a floor finish for a long time.
The bathroom floor can be made of natural stone - there are dozens of varieties of marble cut into thin tiles. This is a luxurious finish that requires informed design decisions. Marble and other types of stone are beautiful, durable, and durable, but, like ceramic tiles, they can feel cold to the touch and sometimes slippery.
Linoleum bathroom floor is a simple, inexpensive practical construction, ideal for use in a limited period of time. The choice of patterns is very wide, such a floor is non-slip and even seems warmer than tiles. The advantages of a special waterproof laminate are similar, which can also be used to make a bathroom floor. Laminate feels slightly colder to the touch than linoleum
A neat bathroom owner can even make a carpet for his bathroom. This is a very pleasant to the touch coating, which only needs to be protected from splashes of water and be prepared for its frequent replacement due to accelerated failure from inevitable splashes.
The wooden plank floor in the bathroom embodies all the charm of an environmentally friendly natural coating, but is technically risky due to the risk of warping and other effects from high humidity.
It is best to make such a floor from mahogany - it does not rot, either from larch or oak, it is beneficial to lay it on the logs - so that the wood is ventilated from below.
Alternatively, it is possible to use boards, abundantly and on all sides treated with waterproof varnish.
Modern self-leveling floors for an individual bathroom are now available to everyone. The floor of this type is beautiful, very even, with a pattern "like a natural stone", it is easy to do with your own hands. The disadvantage - common to many other floors - is the sensation of a cold surface, as well as noticeable synthetic odors when used in business.
An interesting, beautiful and surprisingly warm to the touch floor for a home bathroom made of sheet cork. A recognizable appearance, softness and warmth will make a room with such a coating comfortable and cozy, and its sufficient durability and careful handling will ensure long-term operation.
When thinking about how to make a bathroom floor using wooden beams, you need to solve two technical problems:
Do not overload beams whose bearing capacity is inferior to many other types of slabs
Insulate the beams from moisture and, moreover, from direct soaking.
If the beams are powerful enough, then a thin reinforced concrete slab with a thickness of 70, 60 and even 50 mm can be arranged along them, and on it you can make any floor with your own hands, as in a house with reinforced concrete floors.
A rather risky, but quite real, with a neat, jewelry-accurate performance, a coating, which includes an intermediate flooring, for example, from OSB boards, especially for the device of roofing felt waterproofing. On it, you can arrange a plank covering on the logs and even cladding with ceramic tiles. The finished floor plane for such a bathroom is suitable for laying laminate, linoleum, carpet, cork.
The most reliable waterproofing layer on timber beams is a solid or welded solid stainless steel sheet. A home craftsman who manages to order or make with his own hands such a structure from a stainless steel sheet in the form of a pallet can be sure that the beams will neither get wet nor rot.
For many DIYers, making and installing many structures with their own hands is easier than deciding what to cover the bathroom floor. For a successful and balanced decision, you need to adhere to a certain and understandable logic of priorities. Here is an example of a methodologically sound priority for considering floor issues for your own bathroom:
The composition and thickness of all layers of the floor for the designer bathroom is assigned on the basis of the previously outlined type of floor finish.
All existing prospective engineering communications and their influence on the implementation of the floor are checked.
When all the technical problems have been resolved, you can begin to refine the face layer. Perhaps thinking about the technical side of the matter will also clarify the design solution.As soon as there is confidence in the correct choice of the design of the layers of such a floor and the coating material, you can get to work.
The accuracy and attentiveness of the master allows you to perform many works more carefully than specialists do.
Video (click to play).
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