In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a sunerzh heated towel rail from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
An electric heated towel rail is a convenient and practical household appliance. It provides a comfortable microclimate in the bathroom, prevents the appearance of fungus and allows towels to dry quickly.
This equipment is reliable and has a very long service life. But sometimes force majeure circumstances happen, and the owners have to think about repairing an electric heated towel rail, which has ceased to perform its functions.
The cause of a breakdown or incorrect functioning of a heated towel rail is often a chain of nodes connecting the device to the power grid.
The search for the problem begins with an examination of the outlet. Remove the plug and inspect the inlets carefully.
In the absence of visual damage, the assembly is examined using an indicator screwdriver. If there is no current, the outlet is replaced with a working one, but when there is current, proceed to check the thermostat. It is carefully rotated and listened to the sound. A faint click that is heard indicates that the contacts are triggered and means that the device is working properly.
Further, the fault is searched for in the power line. With increased loads on the network, it becomes hot and the device automatically turns off. In such a situation, the equipment is again connected to the power supply and carefully monitored. Repeated knocking out of the automatic plug clearly indicates that there is a short circuit in the connection system, which must be detected and eliminated.
Diagnostics of the system for a short circuit is carried out using a multimeter. It is set to hold the DC resistance level.
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The cord for connecting the heated towel rail to the network is removed from the socket, and then the resistance of the heating element and the wire is measured. Indicators of heating elements should tend to zero and be slightly less than 1 Ohm. The resistance of the wire should approach infinity, since the circuit connecting the neutral and phase conductors is open.
If other numbers are displayed on the device display, the damaged liner must be replaced. This takes a minimum of time and effort, provided that it is mounted openly. When a hidden method of laying is used, to eliminate the problem for a while, it is required to remove fragments of the external wall decoration, carry out the necessary repair work and only then return the decor elements back.
According to the rules for the safe operation of a heated towel rail, the installation of an outlet directly in the bathroom is carried out only if it is connected to the system through an RCD machine. In a network that complies with all PUE standards, a circuit breaker, an RCD device and a wiring leading to the outlet are installed.
To locate the fault area, first check the position of all circuit breakers.
- The disconnected main circuit breaker when the RCD is on means a short circuit in the system.
- The switched on main machine with the RCD disconnected signals a decrease in the level of insulation resistance on the heating element of the device.
- If, when the heated towel rail is disconnected from the outlet, both disconnected machines are easily turned on and do not knock out, the problems should be looked for in the device itself. When one of them turns off the protective system immediately after turning it on, the problem lies in the liner.
- If, when the heated towel rail is plugged in, the machines turn on, but one of them knocks out, the fault is in the towel dryer.
A unit that does not work with two machines turned on clearly indicates that the heating element may partially burn out or has already completely burned out and needs to be replaced.
Electric heated towel rails are classified into two types. Some are called solid-filled and graphite is used as a heating agent. The second - liquid - run on a special mineral oil, water or antifreeze.
When a solid-filled or liquid heated towel rail stops functioning, the area of failure is first indicated. If the wiring and external power grid are checked and in good order, then the problem is most likely in the equipment itself.
A detailed search begins with determining whether the heated towel rail heats up weaker or does not heat at all. To do this, the device is turned on in standard mode, and after 5-7 minutes, the heating level in the area of the main heating element is checked.
When in this place the unit becomes simply warm, but not fiery, they try to increase the temperature by further adjusting the thermostat.
When the heated towel rail warms up as much as possible only in the area of the heating element, and then remains barely warm or even cold, there is a possibility that it is simply clogged and needs high-quality cleaning. Do it yourself at home.
The device is disconnected from the network, removed from the wall and turned over so that the heating liquid does not flow out. Using a wrench, unscrew the main valve and clean the inlet with a wire. Then the unit is assembled, checked for leaks, returned to its usual place and connected to the power supply. Normal operation of the device in standard mode means that the repair was successful.
If the heating element does not heat up at all, the source of the problem is sought in the electrical part of the unit.
When it is already known for sure that the problem of an inoperative heated towel rail is not in the electrical network, but in the device itself, you urgently need to find the place of the malfunction. Devices operating on the basis of a heating cable, in most cases, cannot be repaired or require a complete replacement of the main element. Almost all heating elements can be repaired without any problems and, after servicing, work normally in standard mode.
To diagnose the heating element, you need to get to the contacts connecting it to the power supply system. To do this, first remove the casing covering the contact part. This process is different for each model and is usually described in the user manual that comes with your heated towel rail.
The wires connecting the heating element with the general system are soldered or fastened with special contacts. They are carefully detached. Then, with the help of a multimeter, they ring out separately, first the wire, and then the heating element itself. The measurement scale is set to "Ω" and the maximum value is indicated. Measurement is made between three passing wires and the indicator is recorded. It should be as high as possible. Data approaching 0 indicates a short circuit in the system.
If there is some kind of regulating equipment between the outlet and the heating element, it is turned off before measurement and tested separately. Ignoring this item leads to receiving incorrect data.
Inspection of the heating element begins with checking the circuit between the power contacts. Then the presence and level of resistance between the power contacts and the case is determined. If there is no circuit between the power contacts, then either the heating element itself or the thermostat has broken. A small value of the resistance indicator between the power contacts and the heating element case indicates its damage or breakdown. In such a situation, the element is removed and replaced with a new one.
The configuration of most models of electric towel warmers provides for the replacement of a failed heating element with a new one. The procedure is not too complicated, and you can do it yourself at home using a screwdriver, pliers and a set of wrenches.
Before starting repair work, you need to find out what type of heating element is used in the heated towel rail model. The most common are "wet" heating elements, in which the heating element comes into contact with the liquid heat carrier.
Before repairing such units, they are removed from the wall, turned over, the inlet valve is unscrewed and the working fluid (water, oil, distillate solution) is drained. Then the threaded connections fastening the element to the body are unscrewed, the faulty heating element is replaced with an operable one, a heat-carrying liquid is poured, the outlet openings are closed and the installation is checked for leaks.
In "dry" versions, where the heating element and the coolant are separated from each other, the faulty heating element is simply unscrewed from the body and a new one is put in its place.
At the end of the work, the entire heating element is called with a multimeter, and only when positive results are obtained in all areas, the equipment is installed back on the wall and the equipment is connected to the power supply system.
Consider an example of improving the budgetary model of electric drying installed by a budget-conscious developer. According to the home craftsman who implemented this option, most of these appliances in the new home were out of order. We will analyze not only the idea, but also the mistakes he made in order to avoid stepping on the "rake" already tested by the owner.
Found the cause of common breakdowns. When hanging wet things on the device, for which it is actually intended to dry, a cheap Chinese product simply burns out due to excess temperature and melting of the wiring. To exclude such negative situations, it was decided to install a thermostat.
The cause of the unit's malfunction is a violation of the integrity of the container with the coolant and, as a result, the leakage of the working fluid. The culprits of this problem are usually O-rings that have worn out during intensive use or simply have expired their time resource.
It is easiest to find a breakdown. A puddle with leaked liquid of an oily yellow or dark shade forms on the bathroom floor directly under the heated towel rail and clearly indicates a malfunction.
To eliminate the breakdown, the heated towel rail is disconnected from the power supply system, removed from the wall, unscrewed the valve at the inlet, drained the working fluid and carefully disassembled in the place of depressurization using an adjustable wrench or a special tool provided by the model design. The damaged O-ring is removed and a new one, which comes with the device, is installed in its place.
If all branded O-rings have already been used, the product is purchased from a specialized store. For a heated towel rail, inexpensive gaskets made of solid and semi-solid rubber are suitable. They remain operational at temperatures from -40 to + 80 ° C, and some more modern species do not lose their physical characteristics even at temperatures from -20 to + 90 ° C.
The only drawback of rubber gaskets is fragility. During operation, they quickly lose their elastic structure, delaminate or crack. When installing them in a heated towel rail, it should be borne in mind that they will have to be changed quite often.
Paronite gaskets and gaskets are more practical and can easily withstand system pressures up to 64 bar. Unlike rubber versions, they calmly tolerate high thermal loads (up to + 200 ° C), show resistance to sudden temperature changes and are not afraid of the strong pressure characteristic of heating systems.
However, paronite contains chrysolite-asbestos, which is considered harmful to human health. It contains some types of carcinogens that can provoke malignant and benign formations. In the countries of the Eurozone, asbestos is prohibited, so professionals do not recommend using paronite gaskets for household appliances.
Silicone gaskets are non-toxic and perform well, but the price is quite high. In addition, in hermetically sealed systems at temperatures above + 150 ° C, the material softens, exhibits porosity, loses its hardness and loses its original strength.
Fluorinated polymer parts are more expensive, but have unrivaled physical, anti-friction and electrical properties. Fluoroplast demonstrates complete harmlessness to humans and instantly extinguishes during spontaneous combustion.
Gaskets and seals made of this progressive material practically do not age, withstand record high loads, work efficiently in aggressive conditions, perfectly tolerate operating temperatures up to + 150 ° C and pressures up to 160 bar.
After replacing the gasket, the drained working fluid is poured into the unit. If its volume is not enough, the required amount is topped up from a spare container. If desired, the heat-conducting composition is completely changed to a new one. To prevent the system from breaking, be sure to leave an air "cushion" of 3 to 5 centimeters.
At the end of the service, the unit is reassembled, the inlet valve is tightened, checked for leaks, hung in its usual place and connected to the electrical network. A heated towel rail operating normally means that the repair was successful.
In order for an electric heated towel rail to work efficiently and not malfunction, some simple rules should be followed during the installation and operation of the device:
- The unit must not be located in the immediate vicinity of a place where water flows. To avoid problems, it is worth hanging the household appliance as far away from the bath or shower stall as possible.
- When connecting the device to the power supply system, you must use a connection that can withstand intense current loads.
- For correct and safe operation of the heated towel rail, you should install residual current devices. Differential automatic machine, circuit breaker and RCD will save equipment from burnout and ensure normal operation even with unauthorized power surges.
- The presence of a grounding contact is the most important position when installing an electric heated towel rail. In the event of insulation breakdown, it will prevent electric shock to the user.
The connection socket should not be built-in, but external and must be waterproof. If possible, it is best to place it outside the bathroom by drilling through it in a suitable location on the wall.
Troubleshooting and subsequent repair of the heated towel rail can be done at home. This requires a multimeter, screwdriver, adjustable wrench and pliers.
Carrying out work, you need to follow basic safety rules and follow the advice contained in the instructions attached to the equipment. If you have any doubts, you should contact the center of the company warranty service or call a qualified specialist to your home. It will quickly detect the problem area and fix any problems that arise.
One of the leading manufacturers of high-quality heated towel rails is the Russian company Sunerzha. This device is quite popular among buyers due to its elegant compact design and proven reliability in operation. However, nothing is eternal, and these electrical devices sometimes fail.
There are two main options:
- use the warranty card and return the heated towel rail for repair to specialists at the service center;
- make repairs to the Sunerzhe heated towel rail yourself. It makes sense if you are confident in your abilities, and the warranty period for servicing the device has expired.
How to repair Sunerzh electric heated towel rails with your own hands, you will learn from this article.
Before starting the repair, you should prepare the tools that you will need: a screwdriver or pliers, a soldering iron if necessary, a multimeter to measure voltage.
Next, you should study the design of an electric heated towel rail, consisting of the main functional units:
- the heating element itself;
- cord with plug;
- special sleeve to connect the cord;
- mouthguard for isolation;
- brackets for hanging the electric heater on the wall;
- insulating gaskets.
Differences in the design of a heated towel rail depend on the design. Some models have fans, remote controls and temperature control thermostats. These elements significantly increase the cost of the heated towel rail and complicate the repair.
Now you can start identifying faults and actually repair the Sunerzh heated towel rail.
First of all, it is necessary to check the connection of the device to the general voltage network. For this, the mains voltage is checked. It should be in the range of 195-220 V. The switch can automatically turn off if the heated towel rail has been in the network for a long time and the electrical wire is overheated.
It is good if, when installing the heated towel rail, a residual current device or differential circuit breaker was installed. If a shutdown occurs repeatedly, the cause is most likely a short circuit in the system.
To exclude or establish the presence of a short circuit, it is necessary to measure the DC resistance with a multimeter. To do this, disconnect the plug and cord from the power supply and check the resistance of the wire and heating element for the Sunerzh heated towel rail.
When the heating element is turned off, the resistance in the cord tends to infinity. The resistance of the heating element tends to zero or less than 1 ohm. If a thermostat is installed in the device, then the sensors and thermostat are checked first.
Using a multimeter, you can detect the burnout of the heating element. If the heating element for the Sunerzhe heated towel rail burns out, then it needs to be replaced with a new one.
Sometimes the cause of problems requiring repair of Sunerzh electric heated towel rails is the presence of air locks. You can independently bleed the air from the Sunerzh heated towel rail using a screwdriver, key and pliers. This procedure should be carried out periodically and then the system will always be filled with warm water.
How to start a Sunerzh heated towel rail?
- Disconnect hot water supply.
- Install a wiring with 3 valves, one of which blocks the water, while the others are connected to the device.
- The distance from the bypass to the bathroom, shower or sink must be at least 60 cm.
- You can start the Sunerzhe heated towel rail by inserting the plug into the outlet - an open method. There is wiring hidden behind a panel or in a wall - this method is called hidden.
- Be sure to make grounding and an automatic shutdown system. In this case, the device will be safe to use and will last a long time.
As you can see, you can independently repair Sunerzha electric heated towel rails, bleed air or start a heated towel rail, if you read our article and carefully understand the design.
To heat the bathroom and create an optimal microclimate, a heated towel rail is installed in it. The group of heated towel rails includes electric heating elements that do not require connection to a hot water supply system.
Heated towel rail connection diagram.
What to do if the electric heated towel rail is out of order and does not heat up?
How to carry out repairs? There are two options:
- take advantage of warranty service and call a qualified service technician;
- do it yourself if the warranty period is over and you don't have enough funds to call a qualified technician.
To make repairs, you need a tool in the form of a screwdriver and pliers, you may need a soldering iron, as well as an electrical measuring device from a series of multimeters. You should familiarize yourself with the design. By design, heated towel rails are divided into liquid and solid fillers.
In liquid units, mineral oil is used as a heat carrier, which is heated by a thermoelectric heating element - a heating element. In solid-filled ones, graphite is used, which is also heated by a heating element.
The heated towel rail consists of the following functional units:
Heated towel rail installation diagram.
- heating element, the design can be varied depending on the design;
- plug with cord;
- couplings for connecting the cord;
- insulating mouth guard;
- insulating gaskets;
- brackets for attaching a heated towel rail to the wall.
In more expensive models, a thermostat may be included in the design to regulate the temperature and automatically shut off in case of overheating.
Modern models are also equipped with fans and remote controls. Repairing such a heated towel rail will be more difficult.
Having familiarized themselves with the design of the heated towel rail, they begin to troubleshoot and repair it. First of all, they check the circuit for connecting the device to the power supply network of a house or apartment. At this stage, the presence of a network voltage of 195-220 V is checked. Long-term operation of the heated towel rail causes current consumption and heating of the wire, such heating, in turn, can cause the circuit breaker to trip.
When installing a heated towel rail, it is recommended to install a differential circuit breaker or residual current device (RCD), which are triggered by current leakage. If, when turned on again, the machine knocks out again, there is a short circuit in the connection system.
You can check for a short circuit in the wiring diagram using a multimeter, setting it to measure DC resistance. When checking, the cord with a plug is disconnected and the resistance of the wire and the heating element is measured.
A clear diagram for connecting a heated towel rail.
With the heating element disconnected, the cord resistance should tend to infinity, since the circuit between the phase and neutral conductors is open. The resistance of the heating element should tend to zero and be less than 1 Ohm. In practice, two schemes for installing an electric heated towel rail are used:
The disadvantage of hidden installation is that if the wire is damaged, a number of dismantling and then repair and restoration work is required.
Repair of the device with the installed thermostat is carried out with a preliminary check of the condition of the sensors and the temperature controller.
More expensive repairs will turn out if the heating element is out of order. Burnout of the heating element can be detected with a multimeter. If it is faulty, then the resistance value is very large and the device does not show a value. Some models do not allow replacing the heating element; in this case, the entire heated towel rail needs to be replaced.