Do-it-yourself Karcher pump repair

The sink began to work intermittently and there is no pressure. What to do? How to fix a Karcher sink with your own hands?

The reason you described may lie in the incorrect operation of the water pump. To fix it, you need to: first of all, turn off the power supply, then remove the plastic casing (case) and get close to the pump itself. The pump should be removed and disassembled in detail, this is the only way you can determine the cause. Wear of O-rings and much more visually immediately after disassembly, all defects are clearly visible. Often, solid particles get into the water, which can disrupt the operation of the pump. When the pump is disassembled

when all the parts are removed, they need to be put in warm water with citric acid so that all the old grease goes away. Then wipe everything thoroughly and replace every part with defects.

You write that there is no pressure, most likely the reason is in this bypass valve

But I will immediately emphasize that there are quite a few models of Karcher high-pressure washers, the reasons for breakdowns are even more, because the technique is rather complicated.

Correct diagnosis is 90% of the repair success.

The valve that I wrote about above can stick, the reason is dirt.

Sometimes it is enough just to rinse it, clean it and lubricate it, this is a collapsible unit, it is better to take a branded Karcher lubricant, in our case we need silicone lubricant.

We remove the casing (usually it is 8 bolts), put the device lying down with the wheels up.

Next, we remove the pipe (plastic), here you need a hex key, it is held on three bolts.

We take out the valve itself with pliers.

Examined, rubbed, want to disassemble into components.

Lubricated, assembled the sink in reverse order and started it.

If everything is in order, then we have managed with small efforts (investments); if not, we change the valve to a new one.

When reassembling, check the mesh filter, it is located in the branch pipe (see above), the mesh may be torn due to this, dirt gets on the valve.

The filter is only cleaned, it is not repaired, if it is torn, we buy a new one and replace it.

If there are interruptions in work in Karcher, as you correctly noticed this may occur due to a loss of pressure, then the water supply stops until the device reaches the required pressure and so on constantly.

As I noticed, there can be several reasons, at least two.

You should not go straight into the water pump, first you need to look at the contamination of the filter and the water supply system in general, it is quite possible that there is simply no access to water.

If everything is normal with pollution, or rather everything is clean, then check the tightness of the system, there is a possibility that the pressure is being released due to water leakage from the system, perhaps the hose just cracked or the cuff is leaking.

If the first two examinations did not reveal anything, then the water pump is diagnosed and repaired.

They call it correctly - pump.

I personally recommend installing a new pump assembly, due to the fact that in the old one there may be a production and replacement of a repair kit will not work.

Yes, and at a price there is not much difference, so the pump costs from 2000 to 5000 steering wheels, if assembled, and repair kits from 1000 to 4000 rubles.

To choose a pump, you need to know the Karcher model, and in some cases, how it looks.

Here is an example of replacing the pump for the karcher k 4.75 model

The most frequent breakdown in the pump of KARCHER K2, K3, K4, K5 household sinks.

repair karcher checking the bypass after replacing the pump in the device k 3 96. repair karcher k 3-4 measuring the pressure karcher k 3-4 where.

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Malfunction of the piston group, air leakage through the piston.

In this video, I tried to talk about repairing a Karcher pressure washer. I am doing household repair.

In this video, I tried to talk about repairing a Karcher pressure washer. I am doing household repair.

In this video, I tried to talk about repairing a Karcher pressure washer. I am doing household repair.

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In this video, we will analyze how to replace the pump from the K 5.520 mini-sink. The reason for the failure was a broken filter.

Do-it-yourself car wash "Karcher" repair

Details Published on 04/09/2014 15:50 Views: 2736

One of the most widespread models of Karcher car washes, which are found in private use, is Karcher 5.20. The machine is reliable, efficient and relatively inexpensive. But the eminent German Körcher units are prone to breakdowns.

I will consider the option of self-repairing the Karcher 5.20 car wash in case of one of the breakdowns that I have. Its essence lies in the fact that after about 2 years of operation, the sink suddenly stopped delivering the pressure it was supposed to be, an intermittent operation of the pump appeared and, accordingly, the pressure of the jet became intermittent.

Considering that, for objective reasons, the warranty repair of the device was excluded, I had to experiment and carry out repairs with my own hands in the garage.

I will try to describe the process in the form of a photo instruction:

1. Remove the case (assembled on bolts and disassembled with a screwdriver),
2. We take out a motor with a pump,
3. We separate the pump from the motor (this must be done very carefully, holding the pump up, otherwise oil will pour out from the piston drive)

Now you need to remove it from the valve piston. When doing this, do not use sharp, hard tools - they can easily be scratched.

We disassemble the pump in two (in half) and again remove the valves from it (I called them that)

And now the reason for the breakdown of the apparatus becomes visible: it turned out to be a small pebble that was stuck in one of the valves. How he got there remains a mystery - the sink was always operated with a filter and there was also an additional, external filter on the water supply.

The valve also has traces of very small particles and a coating like scale (apparently hard water).

We clean all the elements inside the pump and wipe it with felt or other soft cloth (plastic valves and any abrasive can aggravate the situation).

When finished, we assemble the pump and motor in reverse order.

If oil spills, you can replace it with any compressor oil.

After such a simple procedure, the car wash works like new.

Based on materials from the site:

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Usually, when the water is supplied and we turn on the sink to the outlet, the pump turns on for a second, as if creating pressure in some receiver. After that, from the button on the sprayer, the unit actually starts up, the compressor works and the water flies in the given direction.

This time, everything went differently: the pump is not limited to one time, but “growls” with a frequency of an hour hand, about once every two seconds.The impression is that somewhere inside there is a leak, and you need to constantly pump up water. After pressing the button on the sprayer, the sink is already working normally, but when you release it, these periodic starts again.

Tell me in which direction to dig in this case, where could there be a malfunction? The warranty has expired a long time ago.

11 april 2016
at 22:17

Already many people earn just talking on our forum!
For example, like this. Or like this.
it will take one minute.

Karcher car washes are a popular type of modern cleaning equipment that has become widespread, largely due to its reliability and durability.

Nevertheless, these car washes - just like any other equipment - inevitably wear out during operation, which over time can lead to its breakdown. Specialists who carry out the repair of Karcher car washes identify the following main malfunctions.

The most common problem is a decrease in the performance of the car wash pump. A drop in operating pressure is directly related to it, leading to a decrease in the efficiency of the washing equipment. The reason for the drop in pressure, as a rule, is the wear of the stuffing box seals available in the pumping unit of the Karcher car wash. This wear can be natural (associated with long-term operation); it can also be caused by poor water quality and the presence of abrasive particles. A symptom that allows you to identify the described malfunction is the appearance of puddles of water under the car wash. This signal should not be neglected: a problem that occurs can lead to even more serious consequences. The wear process will develop on an incremental basis, while high pressure water can destroy the oil seal and break into the crankcase of the drive mechanism. The oil in the crankcase will turn into a foamed composition and will not be able to fulfill its lubricating function. Obviously, the repair of a car wash in this case will turn out to be a much more costly event than if you contact a service center in a timely manner.

The failure of the Karcher car wash can be associated with such malfunctions as wear of the rubber rings of the pressure regulator or bypass valves, as well as damage to the hoses. Symptoms such as:

• decrease in the recoil force of the pistol at the moment the car wash is turned on;
• decrease in the density of the liquid stream;
• decrease in its detergency.

Any of the listed symptoms is a reason for immediate contact with a specialized service center.

The Karcher car wash problems listed in this article are common, but, alas, they are far from the only ones. It is good news that the professionals of service centers these days successfully eliminate almost any defects, completely restoring the performance of car washes.

Why does the Karcher not gain pressure and work in jerks with the cutter on?

The problem can affect most budget sinks, for example KARCHER K 3, 5.200 and others.

Karcher can work in jerks for several reasons.

1. If there are air bubbles in the underwater hose, but we do not consider this issue.
2. A drawdown of electricity is unlikely to give the Karcher work in jerks, although this is also possible.
3. The main reason is the pressure valve. When the cutter was connected, my Karcher worked at intervals of a second - it turned on and off. All other problems (drawdown of electricity, airiness of the system) are excluded and checked. If everything is in order with this, most likely the spring of the water pressure valve is out of order. The valve is responsible for stabilizing the Karcher pressure and turning off the electric motor. If the karcher works in jerks at short intervals, this is most likely the reason.

The valve spring is made of stainless steel and tends to sag after some time of intensive use.Now, to turn on the valve (and turn off the engine), you need a much lower pressure, because the spring has sagged. The cutter turns on, the pressure rises sharply, the valve turns off the engine, the pressure drops, it turns on again and so on in jerks at intervals of 1 second. With the usual Karcher nozzle, everything is fine, the pressure there is not so great.

In this video - a more detailed explanation of getting rid of Karcher jerks.

First, let's take a look at Karcher 5.20

take out the valve

Here is the problematic Karcher pressure relief valve, the spring of which prevents us from living

There are several options to solve the problem.

But the original spring is needed - made of stainless steel, since the valve is always wet, and corrosion in this place is not allowed - otherwise it will jam. Hence the disadvantage - there are no good stainless steel springs)
stretch the spring mechanically. I didn't succeed, the spring lost its rigidity.

After stretching under compression, it took on its original shape.

compress the stem holding the spring. There is an adjusting thread, which can be tightened to shorten the spring and it will become stiffer. It is better to look at the video. We'll have to file the tip of the rod a little so that it twists deeper.

you need to twist a millimeter by 1.5 -2 from the original.

for this we clamp the Karcher valve in a vice so as not to let it turn

We disassemble it with pliers. The valve is threaded, so force is required. In a vice, you need to squeeze accordingly.

Here is this stainless steel spring

We file the tip of the screwed part of the valve on the grindstone by 1.5 - 2 mm to begin with

We tighten the spring. Putting the Karcher in reverse order.

LUBRICATE THE SPRING AND VALVE WITH SILICONE GREASE

If the jerks remain, you still need to tighten the spring

If the karcher works and does not turn off, then the spring is squeezed and the valve is clamped. You need to let go a little.

You may need to disassemble and assemble several times until you fully configure. Remember to RELEASE GUN PRESSURE and DISCONNECT FROM MAINS before each disassembly.

now the karcher cutter works fine - without jerking

After the winter, I turned on the sink and found a strong leak in the off state from the inside of the case. A trip to the service center gave information on the cost of repairs from 2500 rubles. without the cost of spare parts, as well as information from the manager about the disposability of this series of sinks.

I decided to tinker on my own. I disassembled the case, disconnected the engine, connected it to the water supply. Identified the source of the leak.

Part 5 is leaking, but the obvious place of leak is not visually visible. Apparently, a microcrack.

Calling the suppliers of spare parts gave the information that this part is not repairable, a new one costs

In general, the option to take a new one is the same (from 3100 rubles), or used with a burnt out engine. But I am more inclined to take a minisink of another brand, different from Karcher.

Found a photo of a detail

"Repair" is put in quotation marks on purpose, since in fact, there was no repair, but only maintenance!
The beginning was here: I had a “problem” in the spring: after hibernation Karcher K5.200, which served me faithfully for 3 years without any problems. And during all this time, I did not give him absolutely any maintenance (except for the regular release of pressure after washing).

And so in the spring he stopped going to the "afterburner" mode. It seems that it blows a stream of water evenly, but somehow it is rather weak, there is no former powerful pressure of the jet. Somewhere only 70-80% of the rated power and the characteristic “hiss” of the jet does not come. And the mud blaster does not launch its “fidgety” fan! It's good that nothing flows anywhere, but in order to avoid defrosting, I prudently lowered the sink into the basement of the garage for the winter! (there will be a separate topic about the basement). The hose is relatively short from the barrel to the AED and is only 2m long, the filter blew clean again, so there shouldn't have been any complaints about these details either.

200gr. aerosol can, silicone

I “blew” my AED with a thoroughly home-made compressor, () and “drove out” all the water from it.

In both openings (inlet and outlet) "blew out" aerosol "BBF" through the supplied "straw".

And then he blew it again with a compressor so that the sillicon penetrated deep into the interior of the apparatus. The whole cycle was repeated once more.
Well, to increase the effectiveness of the "repair" I decided to raise a 40L container of water to the height of a stool. And about the "miracle"! The device worked like new! And even the “metallic clang” disappeared when the pressure was pumped into the main line. To celebrate and with pleasure, he “poured” as much as 100 liters of water onto the car!

Has washed all the winter-spring dirt. even on the "belly" and in the wheel arches!

At the end of the car wash, I repeated the procedure of “sylliconization of the AVD” again! Now I will do it regularly!
True, this day was not without, as usual, a "fly in the ointment in a barrel of honey"! When the sink was lowered into the basement (I keep it there so as not to accidentally defrost it. ”And I accidentally missed it, and it rolled down the basement stairs from a 4-meter height to the very bottom of the basement!

Bl ... be! How I swore at this club-handed washer (that is, at myself)! As a result, it turned out that only the plastic wheels of the sink had become unusable.

Thank goodness no damage was done to the interior details. The test run of the AED with water did not reveal any deviations in operation. Well, we didn't really need wheels yet, because we don't go anywhere further than the garage at the car wash!
We will look for exactly the same ... but that will be another story!
Let's see, time will tell whether such a prophylactic "treatment" with silicone will last for my "kiryusha" that has become ill. But someday it will be necessary to take it seriously, carry out a serious fault detection, change the oil ...
So far, he has already withstood two car washings with dignity!
P.S. I am writing in pursuit of this "post", observations after two weeks and 5-7 car washes.
The device works fine, no comments. He has returned to his "agility"!
The only "hemorrhoid". which I am additionally organizing for myself:
1. I blow the water out of the sink with a compressor.
2. I blow out the sillicon grease through a straw and again blow it through the AED with the compressor.
3.I blow out the sillicon grease again
4. raised the barrel 70cm above the ground level (earlier 40L - the barrel and the AED were on the ground).
Probably it was necessary to do this before, to prolong the reliable and trouble-free "life" of the sink!

P.S. After 4 months I can confirm that this “treatment” definitely had a positive effect. Now the sink is “blowing” like new. No complaints.
It is true that it is a little annoying to carry out additional operations for "resuscitation" with the help of "silicone grease and a compressor", but they are worth it!

The first mini-sink was presented to me 10 years ago, it was K2.01, but it seemed to me not enough and I bought myself a K5.55. And then one day she stopped turning on, I took her to the service, where I paid 2,500 rubles for a “valve replacement”. When this happened again the other day I decided to figure out what was wrong there.

To disassemble you need to have a Phillips screwdriver, an asterisk. hexagons Preferably in the form of bits, with a large extension. Well, the screwdriver will speed up the action. Do not forget to disconnect the appliance from the power supply and water 🙂

I took off the wheels, the handle, the lining, and disassembled the body. Next, you need to remove the clamp that secures the motor to the body. The "manometric shut-off valve" is located under the plastic nipple; to remove it, you need to pull out two pins with slots with pliers. But you can't get the valve this way, you can only assess its state of “walking” or “freezing”.

Found a valve tip pressing against a disconnect switch? Not moving? We knock out!

And now you have a "valve" in your hands for 50 euros

... Spring and fungus with gaskets. It is necessary to clean it and the seat, lubricate with something suitable (I used the G8 Special). You can unbend the spring a little if you get hooked. We put, we collect. Works again.You have 2,500 rubles or more in your pocket, not cunning servicemen (not well, they also need to eat, but IMHO, this operation is somewhat cheaper).

They say this valve hangs on detergents (there is a special nipple on this sink for supplying all kinds of shampoos, and they are just fed through the plastic nipple into the chamber with the valve). Maybe so, maybe not, but yes, I applied the foam before the breakdown. It is worth buying a foam nozzle (it costs less than 1000 rubles) and everything will be ok. Recently, I often hear - buy a cat and give a shit. I don’t know, I like products that are pleasant to disassemble and assemble, which generally make sense to “repair”, and not easier to throw away. My sink, designed by white people for white people, has been in use for over 5 years and will continue to serve. And by white people, I mean real engineers, whose creations you will never get access to for “three times cheaper in Auchan”.

All the best, with the pictures it would have been better, but the hands were dirty, and the head was busy with something else.

Many thanks to Vladimir for the photo!

Karcher Karcher K5.55 valve does not turn on repair

In what order should the parts be connected? First, install the container and filter, then attach the hose, mount the pump, after the engine and regulator, fasten it with a hose, use a gun and nozzles.

The principle of operation of such a mini-sink with your own hands is as follows: you turn on the pump, water begins to flow from the canister into the hose, then you press the trigger of the pistol further, and it bursts out of it in a thin stream under the force of pressure.

You can also use a car tubeless nipple and a knife with a sharp end.

1. Make a hole in the container lid using the sharp end of a knife, the hole should be smaller than the bore diameter of the nipple.
2. Insert the nipple from the inside.
3. Make a hole for the sleeve connector at the bottom of the canister, it should be even without protrusions or seams.
4. Insert the sleeve using a wire into the canister through the hole.
5. Apply silicone sealant to the joint.
6. Take the union and screw it onto the sleeve.
7. Wait for the sealant to dry.
8. Next, you need to screw on the lid. Important: once again wait until the sealant is completely dry.
9. Connect the pump.
10. Be sure to plug the fitting with your finger and increase the pressure in the container.
11. Use a connector to equip the hose.
12. Connect one end of the hose to the canister and the other to the spray gun.
13. Fill the canister almost completely with water and pump air in. Pay attention: do not over-pump the canister with air, as it will expand under the influence and force of pressure. If you have a large volume canister, prepare in advance special clamps that will contain overpressure and inflation of the tank.
14. Squeeze the trigger of the gun in order to provoke a discharge of water outside under pressure. Select the desired spray type on the gun.

Do-it-yourself "Karcher" repair. Do-it-yourself repair of a high-pressure hose, high-pressure car washes, mini-washers, foam nozzle, Karcher pump

Regular use of the pressure washer requires high-quality service of the device in the service center. In order to save money, many users make repairs to "Karcher" with their own hands. It is not recommended to carry out self-cleaning and replacement of parts before the end of the warranty period, which will affect the refusal of further service.

For trouble-free operation of the device, regular replacement of the oil, seals and the cuff on the pump (high pressure pump) is required. In case of interruptions in water pressure or improper storage / use of the device, an urgent DIY repair of the "Karcher" may be required. What parts are failing?

• Pump, motor and pressure sensor.
• Electrical part.
• Nozzle, hose and gun.

The choice of household mini-washers eliminates the emergence of difficulties in care, but different models have their own characteristics, which must be found out from the seller in advance. For example, a car wash nozzle with a lamellar structure will provide high-quality operation with regular cleaning with a toothpick. Otherwise, the ingress of small particles will cause the unit to stop working.

When purchasing a product, you should check the availability of the nearest service centers and the warranty period. If such questions are ignored, the breakdown of the machine will lead to unnecessary problems. If you decide to carry out the repair of "Karcher" with your own hands, the right step is to study the instructions in detail.

According to the manufacturer and car wash workers, the main causes of device breakdown are poor water quality and lack of service. To increase the service life of the unit, it is required to comply with the basic requirements:

• Install a filtering device for coarse and fine water purification at the inlet to the AED.
• Check the flow of the required volume of liquid in accordance with the technical parameters of the device. For example, if the flow rate is 15 l / min, and the water supply system allows you to get 13 l, after 2 months you may need to immediately repair the "Karcher" with your own hands (or in a service center).
• Water piping should be 3/4 in. Per unit.
• Factory nozzles and accessories are subject to self-replacement.

With regular preventive maintenance, it is possible to exclude the occurrence of unforeseen circumstances that will entail the replacement of expensive parts.

Check the condition and regularly change the oil in the pump plunger drive device. According to the manufacturer, the first oil change should be carried out after 50 hours of using the device, the subsequent service - after 350-550 hours. With an average flow rate of the washing area, it is sufficient to carry out the treatment once every 3 months.

Monitoring the condition of the pump for a good fluid flow, external application of oil, as well as minor repairs of the Karcher car wash with your own hands (changing filters, tightening the bolts) will extend the life of the device.

For AHU with heating, boiler prophylaxis is mandatory - cleaning the fuel filter (removing scale on the inner walls of the heat exchanger and external deposits).

Repair is required if there is a decrease in pump performance and a decrease in operating pressure. This is caused by fluid leaking from the plunger seals. The oil seals are worn out naturally or when exposed to abrasive elements. Under high pressure, small scratches will affect fluid seepage.

The first signal of a malfunction is a small puddle formed in the place where the hose runs. To resolve the issue, you can make a simple but painstaking repair of the Karcher car wash with your own hands. It is enough to change the oil seals (seals). It will be more difficult to install a new actuator, housing elements, seals, etc.

The suction channel is formed by housing elements that place a flat filter between them. The efficiency of the device depends on its state. The formation of defects in the adhesion of the surfaces of body parts leads to a decrease in the main characteristics of the device. With a low suction power while working with a hose and nozzles, repairing a Karcher high pressure washer with your own hands requires the preparation of a soft material to clean all surfaces and edges of the body parts. Damaged elements must be replaced.

If the device is equipped with the Total Stop system (shutdown of the pumping system in the absence of pressure on the trigger of the gun), leaks will lead to inadvertent activation - the automatic device perceives the pressure drop as a "start" command, the device rattles.

The decrease in performance or the shutdown of the AED is affected by the wear of the bypass or bypass valve, the rubber seal (ring) of the pressure sensor and the failure of the hose. This is accompanied by a low level of gun pressure, a decrease in the density and washing characteristics of the jet.

If the device does not maintain the specified pressure level, the pump is intermittently operating and the water is supplied in fragments, repairing the Karcher high pressure washer with your own hands will not be particularly difficult. It is enough to unscrew the bolts with a screwdriver and remove the housing, take out the motor with the pump and separate the motor from it. The pump must be directed upwards or oil will leak from the piston drive.

The valves are removed from the piston (the use of sharp objects is excluded, which can damage the surface), the pump is disassembled into 2 parts. The valves are removed again.

This is how the reason for the failure of the device is found out. This could be scale build-up or blockage. All parts inside the pump are cleaned and wiped with felt. Then the structure is assembled in reverse order.

Do-it-yourself repair of a high-pressure "Karcher" hose consists in crimping the damaged element at the ends or along the entire length. If the sleeve is torn off the flange, the unusable part should be cut straight to the area where there are no deformations. The required flange is selected and placed on the hose. The first one needs to be inserted into the second and squeezed in a vice. Hammer blows are applied from above.

If a cut is formed along the length of the sleeve, the same work is done. The hose is cut and removed to an intact area. A connector of a given diameter and two clamps are inserted. They are put on the hose, a connector is inserted, and tightly crimped with clamps. If cracks form along the entire length of the sleeve, repairing the Karcher high-pressure hose with your own hands is impossible. A complete replacement of the product is required - it is better to entrust this to the masters of the service center.

If the foam nozzle stops producing thick foam, is used for a long time or is not rinsed with clean water after use, the roller mesh becomes clogged with dried "chemistry".

To clean the foam tablet, a number of operations must be performed:

• Detach the tank from the foam lance main unit.
• The arrow marks the location of the pin holding the plastic tablet tip to the brass element. The pin should be knocked out. If you decide to repair the Karcher foam nozzle with your own hands, you can use an awl or a thin screwdriver.
• After removing the plastic tip, you will see two petals forming a foam spray angle. The tip with them must be unscrewed.
• In the inner part of the removed nozzle, steel threads will be visible, taking a rounded shape (in the form of a tablet). They should be removed with an awl. Cleaning of the hardened “chemistry” in the nozzle is carried out using a needle.
• The assembly of the product is carried out in the reverse order.

Do-it-yourself repair of the "Karcher" nozzle correctly makes it possible to extend the life of the device and reduce the cost of its maintenance.

Washing a car, cleaning a garage or tidying up a summer cottage - all these works are greatly facilitated by a mini-wash. Some models are quite suitable for flushing pipes or concrete mixers. Unattractive and difficult work like cleaning stables or washing agricultural machinery is greatly simplified with the help of this miracle device. The topic of today's publication is the repair of a pressure washer with your own hands, because any technique tends to fail after a particular period of operation.

In order for the mini-sink to serve as long as possible, it is necessary to follow the not very complicated rules for the safe operation of the device specified in the instructions for use:

• Remember to ensure that there is sufficient water in the sink.If this rule is neglected, the pump can quickly fail.
• Take care not to bend the hose. Otherwise, the device will fail due to the excess of the water level. It will not be superfluous to make sure that you do not step on the hose or run over it with the wheel of the device.
• Choose a mini-sink in such a way that it is equipped with a hose reel. In this case, the working life of the device will be much longer.
• Remember to drain the water after you have finished using the appliance. Especially if you have operated your sink at low temperatures. Water, turning into ice, will provoke a breakdown of the device.

Important! It is equally important to release pressure from the pump.

• Use your mini-sink very carefully. Water is supplied at high pressure, so even small dents may appear on the surface of the car if used carelessly. Therefore, you do not need to bring the device too close to the surface to be treated.

Important! It is strictly forbidden to point the device at people or animals, as this may cause injury.

• If you need to take a short break from work, never leave the device turned on.
• Make sure that the water used is free of foreign matter.
• Change the oil in time.

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These preventive measures will protect the worker and those around him. But this does not mean at all that the sink will work forever. Even with the most careful operation, breakdowns cannot be avoided. Consider the rules for repairing a broken Karcher car wash.

Most often, bearings fail over time, which serve as a support for the washer acting on the valve.

The symptoms of bearing failure are as follows:

1. Unstable wash operation. In this case, the engine often does not start; a knock is heard inside the device.
2. It also happens that the engine does not start at all, it gets very hot when turned on.

Do-it-yourself mini-high-pressure washer repair is the following set of manipulations:

• Remove the hose from the device together with the “gun”.
• Disassemble the case, remove the motor.
• Unscrew the 6 self-tapping screws located with an "asterisk" from the motor.
• Open the box with the switch, remove the capacitor and power terminals that come from the switch.

Important! Watch carefully so that the details are not lost: it will not be possible to purchase something similar in the store.

• Place the sink carefully on a horizontal surface with the motor downward.
• Prepare a container to drain the oil.
• Unscrew the bolts by 13 (there are 4 in total).
• Drain the oil into a previously prepared container, put the rubber seal aside.
• Unscrew the bolt located in the center, having previously clamped the shaft with a wrench on the other side.
• Replace worn bearing.
• Assemble the mini-sink in the reverse order, remembering to fill in new oil.

Important! It is difficult to find an original oil, so use a suitable analogue.

In addition to bearing failure, the following failures also occur:

1. Reducing the pressure. The performance of the device decreases, the time for performing washing procedures increases dramatically. The cause of this trouble is damage to the oil seals. Oil seals fail due to prolonged operation of the sink and the presence of impurities in the water. You can solve the problem by replacing the oil seals.
2. Valve defective. It is hardly possible to make an independent repair, so it is much wiser to contact a service center.

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