We looked at repair cases that can be dealt with without a specialist. In more complicated cases, and even more so when you cannot understand what happened to your miracle teapot, you need to carry it to the service center. Find out how much it will cost before repairing. It may be better to buy a new smart kettle.
A thermopot is a useful household appliance that was invented not so long ago. It combines the functions of an electric kettle and a thermos, and is in many ways similar to a samovar. On the one hand, it allows you to quickly boil water, on the other hand, to maintain its temperature for a long time. However, such household appliances need repairs from time to time. If you want to repair the thermal pot yourself, before starting work, find out as much as possible about how this device works and functions. To do this, just read the instructions attached to the device.
All heating devices are arranged according to the same scheme, they are distinguished only by additional functionality and the material from which they are made. The functional elements of the device are placed in a protective case, therefore, in order to repair the thermopot with your own hands, you will need to remove the case. The liquid is poured into a stainless steel tank, into the bottom of which two heating elements are integrated - heating elements. The first one heats the liquid to boiling water, and the other heating element is needed to maintain the temperature.All cables are equipped with a protective ceramic coating, which prevents the cables from coming into contact with the steel tank.
On the side there is a tubular object (water pump). This pump is needed to supply water. In various modifications, the voltage drop across the motor is in the range of 8-24 V.
It is worth noting the electrical board on which the circuit is installed, which is necessary for secondary boiling. In addition, it is required for voltage conversion. Broken contacts on this board can be repaired by hand by simply using a soldering tool.
In addition to this main board, the device also has a control module. It supports the function of the water supply and reheat keys. Also, indicators are connected to the module, showing in which of the available modes the technician is working at the moment.
In a heating device, the thermostat is of great importance. It is mounted on the bottom or side of the water tank. For situations where the thermostat does not work for some reason, a thermal fuse has been created. It excludes the possibility of overheating and breakdown of the thermo-pot when it is accidentally activated with an empty reservoir.
Having found out where all the key elements of the thermopot are located, it becomes much easier to establish the cause of the breakdown and repair the thermopot with your own hands. But it would be more correct to investigate the circuit, to understand all the connections and what parts are to be replaced. In some cases, repairs are impractical, and even specialists do not undertake it.
Let's consider the most common problems and how to fix them.
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The body of the equipment is fixed with screws that need to be unscrewed by removing the plug from the socket in advance. On the inside you will find a plank that needs to be examined carefully. All kinds of burned out components, no doubt, indicate the specific location of the malfunction. The cord is carefully separated from the device and checked by a tester. If the cause of the problem is in the cable, you can quickly replace it with your own hands.
There are two electronic modules in a standard thermocouple:
For power supply.
For management.
Both must be visually inspected for swollen capacitors, blown resistors, unusable fuses, torn tracks. Replace damaged elements with new ones, contacts and soldering are restored by tinning.
But first of all, it is necessary to check the presence of fuses and their integrity. If changing a component does not help, and instead the replaced part also burns out, then the malfunction lies in the electronics, which have failed due to a short circuit.
Resistor ratings are indicated with colored stripes. A common question is how to find out which side the marking begins and which end.
It is much easier with capacitors - they swell.As a rule, beginners looking for methods to fix a thermal sweat are tormented by the question - what does "swell" mean? To understand, it is enough to see a non-working capacitor at least once.
With diodes, it is always more problematic, however, and they break much less often. You just need to separate the component and test it with a tester at both ends to see if it works.
The torn paths of the electronic circuit should be lightly cleaned by removing the varnish layer from them. Then the surface is tinned and covered with solder. It will work as well as before.
The pump pumps water for supply through the tap in manual or automatic mode. The pump is quite simple, it includes a few simple windings that any beginner can figure out. All contacts must be dialed in pairs. Also, a pump dismantled from the body should be tested by applying a certain voltage to it. The 12 volts needed to test the pump can be obtained from simple batteries or a car battery.
We do not recommend changing metal sheets with terminals for others. Protection against overheating is provided by bimetallic switches. The durability of the apparatus largely depends on the functioning of this element. As a rule, there are more than one thermal switches in the heating element, and one of them controls the characteristics of the liquid, and the second does not allow activation when the tank is empty. In such a situation, the heating element component heats up to a temperature of more than one hundred degrees and breaks the power supply circuit.
To improve the contact of the heating elements switches, a special paste is used, similar to the one applied between the fan and the PC processor.
This sensitive component functions quite simply. When the surrounding space warms up to the set temperature, the contacts of the heating element switch open. But as soon as the temperature drops by 15-30 degrees from this point, electrical conductivity resumes. Unfortunately, it is impossible to find out what type these elements of the heating element belong to, simply by looking at the instructions for the thermopot. However, the surfaces of the elements are always marked so that the optimal replacement can be selected.
As a rule, the manufacturer is not satisfied with a simple overheating protection system and equips the equipment with fuses. These are small tubular elements squeezed tightly against the tank wall or glued to it. When the steel tank heats up to a critical temperature, the heater fuse burns out, and the device will not work unless it is replaced. That is why the equipment should be carefully examined in terms of the presence of such defects.
Also, with the help of a tester, the operability of the bimetallic contact is checked. Before starting the test, the heating element should be evaporated.
When the spirals of the heating components burn out, it is simply unprofitable to repair the equipment. The tank is too complex to disassemble on its own, and the insulation and cables are not cheap enough.
After completing the repair work, the safety of the device should be tested. For this purpose, the resistance between the plug and the reservoir, and between the plug and the outer casing should be determined. In a normal situation, it must be infinite.
Thermopot is a duet of a thermos and an electric kettle, which is designed to store water at a constant temperature (close to boiling). This is achieved by self-reheating the liquid when it cools below a predetermined level. The process takes place continuously as long as there is liquid in the kettle, or until it is forcibly disconnected from the electrical network. But, like any other electrical appliance, this technique also fails. However, do not get upset and immediately carry it to the service. If the breakdown is not very serious, then it is quite possible to repair the thermopot with your own hands.
To understand the causes of breakdowns and better understand how to repair a thermo-pot, you should familiarize yourself with the principle of its operation. First, the device boils water like a regular kettle, and then the control module of the device comes into play, which, by means of a thermostat, monitors the set minimum temperature of the liquid and, as soon as it drops below the norm, immediately starts reboiling. To heat the thermo-pot, a second heating element is used, which is always less powerful than the main one, since its operation is very short-lived.
Due to the large size and considerable weight of the thermopot, for pouring boiling water into a cup built-in pump is provided ... It can be powered by electricity, like Marta products. Such a pump allows the possibility of setting up an auto-filling through a control module. There is also a mechanical (manual) pump, like the MAGNIT RTP-002, then the liquid is pumped into the mug manually through a special spout. Many models (for example: Vitek vt 1187 gy, Saturn ST-EK8032, Mystery MTP-2403 and the Bravo TA-65 S thermos kettle) have both types of pumps.
In addition to the above details (control module, thermostat, two heating elements and a pump), the circuit without fail includes thermostat (sometimes two, like Maxwell and Scarlett products) and thermal fuse ... Their main task is to prevent overheating and fire of the device. For the correct operation of the electric pump and the control module, a step-down power supply .
Primarily all thermo pots work according to one general scheme and differ only in little things. For example, some models are equipped with an auto-on timer. In budget options, there may be no low-power heating element (as in the products of Vitek and Magnit). But there are thermo pots (for example, a kettle thermos Polaris PWP 4012D), which combine almost all the useful functions.
To quickly find and eliminate malfunctions, the thermopot must be disassembled. And since all models have a similar structure, there is a general algorithm of actions. It is not difficult to dismantle the device, for this it is enough to adhere to the following instructions:
disconnect the device from the network and pour water out of it;
unscrew the screws at the bottom;
remove the clips from the ring and unscrew the released screws;
remove the pallet;
dismantle the pump, having previously disconnected the hoses from it;
remove the cover of the thermo pot for easy installation of the device on the table upside down;
unscrew the printed circuit board and slide it to the side so as not to interfere;
unscrew the screws hidden under the board gasket;
remove the bottom together with the pallet;
unscrew 8 more screws holding the protective cover;
remove the cover and remove the heater.
Advice! So that the assembly of the thermal pot after repair does not cause problems, the location of the wires and parts on the camera should be fixed.
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For devices made according to the same scheme, typical malfunctions are characteristic. How to find and eliminate them will be described in the pictures below.
If the device does not turn on, then the case in violation of electrical circuit contacts ... The only question is where the break occurred. You need to start the test with the power cord. If it is unusable, the wire should be replaced with a new one. Then all connections of both thermal switches must be checked. An emergency opening may have occurred, and due to a faulty thermostat, the contacts did not return to their place. Also, the connection at the thermal fuse may not be restored. To check, you need to disconnect the questionable part and short-circuit the wires directly. If this works, the defective part is replaced with a new one.
The situation when the water constantly boils, and the device does not turn off, can occur only in the most budget models with one thermostat. It is because of its breakdown that the thermopot does not turn off after boiling. Here you should immediately, without any checks, change the thermal switch.Good and reliable samples always have a duplicate thermostat. And some manufacturers establish additional control in the form of a thermal fuse, which will hedge if, for some reason, both protections do not work, and the kettle is constantly boiling water.
Usually this happens only with devices that have worked for more than one year. It's connected with loss of its properties by a bimetallic plate in a thermostat, which over time begins to respond to a lower temperature than planned. To remedy the situation, you can try to temporarily bend the contacts at the plate. And the best solution would be to replace the thermal switch.
The fact that the termpot stopped boiling water may be to blame banal scale ... By settling in a thick layer on the heating element, it lowers its thermal conductivity. The heating element gradually starts to overheat. At a certain moment, the thermostat sees this as a fire hazard and opens the electrical circuit moments before the water boils. You can get rid of scale on the heating element by simply boiling a citric acid solution. If this does not help, then you will have to disconnect the heater and clean it with a knife.
Important! Thermopot may not boil water also due to a leak in the flask. Even a few drops of liquid can cause overheating. The search for cracks is carried out visually, and it is safer to eliminate them in the workshop.
Other causes of breakdowns can be bad contacts ... In this case, check all connections to the heating element and thermal switch wires. If necessary, the contacts are re-soldered.
If the water supply button does not work, then there may be several reasons. First of all, this could be due to blockage in the system ... Debris is most often scale particles that settle on the walls of pipes and hoses, gradually reducing their clearance. This ultimately leads to the fact that the pump does not pump water.
For descaling you also need to use citric acid or vinegar, boiling water with them in the apparatus. In the case of insoluble debris, the pump and the entire water system will have to be completely disassembled. To do this, disconnect all hoses and blow them out. The pump itself should be disassembled like this:
disconnect it from the body of the device;
unscrew the impeller and remove scale from it;
free the magnet from dirt.
The button for filling liquid does not work and if bad contacts on the key itself or at the junction of the wires with the electric pump. To eliminate it, you need to check the entire circuit for breaks. If the second heating element fails, voltage is no longer supplied to the motor of the electric pump.
Auto filling may not work when malfunctions in the control module ... In this case, you need to check the board for cracks and burnt parts, if found, you will have to work with a soldering iron.
Important! If the thermo-pot has only one electric pump, and the water supply does not work, then first of all you need to check the health of the outlet and the presence of electricity in the house.
When the device does not heat the water when the indicator is on, the first thing to do is to check the heating element. But if the heater is working properly, then the reason may lie in the electrical circuit. That is, the thermopot does not heat the water, but the light is on if there is a fuse in the circuit after the indicator that has blown. The defective part must be replaced to correct the problem.
With prolonged or incorrect operation of the thermal kettle, other problems may occur.
Repeated boiling does not work - the cause must be looked for in the additional heater and control module.There is no main boil while the repeat button works - the thermostat should be checked.Thermo pot works only for heating , but does not boil - the culprit is a burnt out main heating element.In order for the thermal kettle to work for many years and be constantly in good condition, you should regularly carry out preventive work.
Once in two months boil citric acid solution or vinegar. After that, rinse the flask thoroughly under running water.
Every six months it is desirable disassemble the device to remove all internal debris and mechanically clean out sludge that the acid has failed to handle. Along the way, you need to check all contacts for integrity.
Advice! If the upcoming work causes uncertainty or difficulties, then you can watch the corresponding video or use the services of a qualified master.
The thermopot will serve for many years without serious disturbances in operation during operation according to the instructions, careful handling and periodic prevention.
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Objectively arguing, seeing the minimum price limit for the device of 1,300 rubles (Eldorado), repairing a thermo-pot with your own hands is a thankless task. Products rarely break, new ones are provided with a guarantee (store, manufacturer). For those wishing to repair a thermo-pot with their own hands, those who are hunters, who make a living by fixing them, suppliers will provide spare parts separately for various modifications of the device.
The metal body protecting the thermo-sweat should not be heated by water. A serviceable product is equipped with a pump controlled by a mechanical button (trivial pump), or an electric one. The thermo-pot modes function properly for any duration of operation. The listed signs characterize a properly working modern analogue of a samovar. Deviations indicate a breakdown of the thermopot. Even a sticky button.
The Vitek thermopot power supply board costs over 800 rubles. Textolite carries:
transformer;
diode bridge;
several resistors, capacitors.
A typical getinax substrate is supplemented with a pair of active elements, mainly transistor switches. The new VT-1187 thermopot costs 2,000 rubles, the control and power boards — 1,500 rubles (a difference of 25%). A $ 30 pump will shake the will of an experienced repairman as strong as a rock - an economically unprofitable event. Do you still have a strong desire to repair a thermopot with your own hands? Let's start by examining the power cord.
The body of the thermo pot is fastened with several screws: unscrew the fasteners by first pulling out the plug from the socket. A block will be found inside, we begin with a visual inspection. Burned parts inside the thermopot accurately indicate the location of the breakdown. The cord is neatly separated, the tester is called by the tester (diode mode). The detected wire malfunction will not delay the repair of the thermopot.
A typical thermal pot holds two printed circuit boards:
Both the master will inspect, revealing the presence of swollen capacitors, burnt resistors, unusable fuses, broken tracks. Defective radioelements are replaced with new ones, soldering, contacts are restored by tinning.
The first study concerns the presence of fuses, the integrity of the elements. If the replacement fails, the new element burns out - the cause of the problem is the electronic filling. The thermo-pot is damaged by a short circuit (a sharp uncontrolled increase in current).
The resistor values are indicated by colored stripes. A common problem is to detect the beginning and end of the marking.
Hint: there are special sites containing tables of all kinds of resistance symbols. Get access to the resource by filling out the search engine line with the simple phrase "marking resistors online." The direction of the stripes is determined by the observed fact: a fixed set of colors meet from one edge.
It is easier to notice damaged electrolytic capacitors - the cylinders swell. Newbies looking for ways to fix a thermopot are interested in the appearance of a broken container. The answer will come automatically, only a faulty capacitor will come across.The appearance of the cylinder prompts the thought: the keg is 100% swollen. The sidewall especially protrudes (imported ones are cut crosswise).
It is more difficult to test with diodes, but the semiconductor burns less often (silicon keeps temperatures below 150 degrees Celsius). Solder the element, ring both sides. The arrow markings show the direction of flow of positive charges (lean against the positive lead of the tester).
The torn tracks of the board must be cleaned with sandpaper, peeling off the varnish on the metal. The shiny surface is tinned (soldering irons), butted, covered with solder. It will serve for decades. Mechatronics masters repair and work ...
The thermo-pot pump serves the purpose of supplying water through the faucet. Manual, electric modes are possible. The construction, formed by a few simple windings, will not present any mysteries to an experienced electrical engineer. In pairs, contacts are called, otherwise for the mentioned Vitek 1187 you will have to pay $ 30 looking for a new pump. It will be useful to check the pump removed from the thermo-pot for suitability by setting the required voltages to the control windings. Remove the required 12V from the batteries, car battery.
The desired voltage is provided by computer power supplies.
It is not recommended to try to replace flat sheets of metal equipped with terminals with homemade ones. The cost of heating elements on the shelves starts at $ 45.
Overheating protection is provided by bimetallic thermal switches. The characteristics of the thermo-pot are determined by the control part. Usually there are several thermal switches, one controls the water parameters, the second protects against the inclusion of an empty tank. In the latter case, the heating element acquires a temperature above 100 ºС and opens the power circuit.
The surfaces of the tank, thermoswitch flange are in contact. To improve the contact, a special paste is used, similar to the one covering the surface of a processor cooler of a personal computer.
The principle of operation of the sensitive element is as simple as possible. Having noted the fact that the controlled environment has reached a certain temperature, the contacts of the thermal switch open. The parameter value decreases (15 - 30 ºС) - conductivity is restored. The type of components is difficult to find, once reading the description of the thermal pot, the body of the part is marked accordingly. The latter will allow you to choose a suitable spare part.
More often, the manufacturer is not content with the given protection scheme, supplementing the equipment with thermal fuses: small cylindrical parts tightly pressed to the tank wall with strips (brackets) glued. Having fixed the achievement of the critical temperature by the metal container of the thermo-pot, the fuse blows out, further work is impossible without replacement. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully inspect the product for any such damage.
The serviceability of the bimetallic contact (room temperature) is checked by dialing. Desolder the part before the procedure. Normal conditions leave the contacts short-circuited.
Most thermopots operate a hackneyed electrical circuit, allowing you to isolate typical symptoms of a malfunction for units:
The device does not turn on, there are no signs of life. The serviceability of the power cord, fuses, thermal switches is checked.
Water does not boil when pouring, the reboil button is operational. The bottom thermoswitch has broken.
Reverse situation: the reboil button does not work. The elements of the electronic filling are to blame. You must trace the circuit from the power supply to circuit ground.
There is no main heating, the order with the auxiliary one. The heating element has burned out, or the power supply circuit is broken.
The water supply is lousy. Two options:
An additional heating element has burned out, the situation is diagnosed by the absence of standby heating.
The pump motor is defective.
To top it off, we want to familiarize the reader with the types of thermopots. Let's discuss the models that the search engine stubbornly hides, ignoring the obvious attractiveness of the product. The costs of SEO promotion unfairly distribute the search results.
Ceramic thermo pots in type (and material) differ little from a teapot made of baked clay. VC-3230 with a volume of 1.2 liters, traditional three temperature settings, a convenient stand that can accommodate a control panel. Why does the manufacturer use the services of potters when making a thermopot body? Environmental friendliness. A popular word today. Humanity knows no more harmless materials than shards of baked clay used for thousands of years.
Thermopots are designed for small gatherings. Water boils for a few seconds. A minute is enough, get 1 liter of boiling water. The option is ideal for housewives who have sat down to forget household chores.
The Japanese manufacturer Zojirushi will help those looking for an elite thermopot: it presents chic models with Teflon-coated heaters, microprocessor control. The kettle will delight the owner with the required water temperature, in the morning it will warm up the liter in advance, controlled by the timer command. The convenience of a thermopot is achieved by electronics, and a lot of energy is saved.
Termopot Delta is a representative of budget options. For $ 39, he will be happy to heat water, serve as a portable thermos. The model provides the global properties of the considered class of household appliances, including water dechlorination, three temperature modes, and a removable cover.
In the middle price segment, we will call the Hotter thermopot a typical representative. Covering the $ 80 niche, the models are perfect for offices, apartments.
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The internal structure of household thermopots is different. But the simplest models surprise with similarity and simplicity. Repair of the Scarlet thermo-pot can be performed according to the standard scheme, while the Zojirushi microprocessor technology will not tolerate interference.
It is necessary to soberly assess your own strengths, not to try to unsolder a microchip that requires a hot air gun with a 150-watt soldering iron. It is necessary to master the main techniques for working with electronic components that are afraid of static electricity and high temperatures.
Performing work will require tweezers, a tester, a voltage indicator screwdriver, and a soldering iron. The minimum list will kindly suggest on any radio electronics forum. In the same place, ask for advice on correcting the detected defect.
As it is impossible to grasp the immensity, it is impossible to list in one review the recommendations for all cases of how to repair a thermopot with your own hands.
Thermopot is a modern household appliance for heating water poured into it and keeping it hot. The device is indispensable where you need to gradually consume hot water over a long time. But with frequent use, breakdowns are not excluded (for example, control systems, pumps, pumps, etc.). In this article, we will consider repairing a thermopot pump with our own hands.
Its capacity is usually 3-5 liters. For coffee breaks at large conferences, thermopots with a capacity of 6, 8 and 10 liters are used. The thermopot is arranged not much more complicated than the kettle. The main components of the device are located inside the plastic case:
Flask. Made of stainless steel or special toughened glass. There is a heating element at the bottom of the flask. It has the shape of a spiral or is built into the bottom of the vessel. The flask is closed from above with a sealed lid;
There is a hot water pouring unit at the front. It consists of a tube that goes down to the bottom of the flask, filters and a spout, under which the cups are placed;
Electric pump. This is a mini compressor pumping water through a spout;
Manual pump. Many models are equipped with a manual pump in addition to an electric pump or as a main pump;
Power Supply.This unit provides power to the electric heater, and also converts the alternating mains voltage of 220 to low-voltage direct current to power the pump and control system;
Control and display system. The electronic unit controls the operation of the thermopot: it allows you to set and maintain the required water temperature, unlock the activation of the pump, and controls its operation. The block shows on the display the current operating mode of the device and the water temperature.
The presence of a spout makes it possible not to tilt the device to pour water. This eliminates the risk of tipping over and hot water spills, which can cause severe burns. A thermo pot provides a much higher level of security than a kettle or thermos. This makes it indispensable for use by children, the sick and the elderly. In addition, most models are equipped with a system for blocking the inclusion of a water supply when accidentally pressed.
Figure 1 Thermopot. General form
Water can be boiled in advance and set to maintain the set temperature. At the same time, the power consumption is minimal. Usually, several heating modes are supported - for an hour, three, six and nine hours. So you can prepare in advance for a coffee break during a meeting or conference, and at home you can boil water for the whole day during the cheap rate.
The device also has disadvantages. Boiling water takes noticeably longer than in a conventional kettle. If the flask runs out of water, there is again a long wait for a new portion of hot water. For conferences, in this case, they usually provide for several thermal pots or add hot water boiled in an ordinary kettle to them.
A pump, or pomp, is needed to supply water through the spout. After the lid is hermetically closed and the water is heated to the required temperature, you must press the unlock button. The lock LED turns off and you can press the power key. The pump begins to pump water, which flows out of the spout. As soon as the user releases the button, the pump turns off and the water supply stops. After a few seconds, a lock is triggered, again locking the motor start circuit. The control system of advanced models includes a water level sensor. If the water in the flask runs out, the pump turns off.
Many models are equipped with a back-up hand pump in the event of a power outage. It is a corrugated reservoir located under the top cover of the device.
An electric pump is an electric motor and a pump itself attached to its working shaft - a chamber with an impeller, inlet and outlet pipes. When the engine is turned on, the impeller begins to rotate and distill water from the inlet pipe going into the flask into the outlet pipe going to the spout. In some models, there is a filter in front of the pump that traps mechanical inclusions, such as, for example, tea leaves that have fallen into the flask. Its condition also needs to be checked, washed or replaced if necessary.
The hand pump is a corrugated plastic cylinder. It is listed as an "air pump" in the parts list. This pump works only when the lid of the thermopot is closed, when the flask is a sealed volume. Pressing the large button on the lid compresses the cylinder and forces air into the top of the flask. Excessive pressure displaces a portion of water through the nozzles into the spout. When the manual feed button is released, the elasticity of the cylinder and the pressure in the flask return the manual pump to its original position. The pump is ready for the next cycle.
Important! Before you start troubleshooting, you need to take care of your safety. When disassembling the device, disconnect it from the mains, and drain the hot water.
Common causes of malfunctions are as follows:
Malfunction of the control system.
Thermo pot pump does not work.
The impeller chamber is dirty.
If the thermo-pot has stopped supplying water, the problem is not necessarily in the pump. Before disassembling the unit, you need to make sure that sufficient voltage is applied to the motor contacts. This can be done with a tester (multimeter). There is another option. The engine contacts are supplied with a constant voltage of 12 volts from another source, for example, a car battery. If the engine starts to rotate, the problem is in the control system, and you need to diagnose it further.
If the device does not have a standby heating function, check the status of the rectifier diodes of the power supply.
If there is such a function, you need to check the resistance of the standby heating coil, and it could fail (burn out). The engine is powered through it.
If the engine itself is in good working order, then you can carry out a small repair of the thermopot pump with your own hands.
The reasons for the inoperative hand pump can be the following:
Violation of the integrity of the corrugated plastic cylinder.
Top cover silicone gasket is worn out.
These malfunctions are revealed by external inspection and do not require diagnostic tools and disassembly of the device. But to replace faulty parts, you will have to disassemble the thermo pot cover in the first case, and the thermo pot body in the second case.
If the rest of the systems are checked and it is found that the thermo-pot pump is not working, then there will be a big disassembly of the device - the pump is hiding deep in its bowels. After all the parts of the bottom are dismantled, you can see the pump. When the thermopot does not pump the ox, the pump can be repaired by hand.
Figure 2 Pump after removing the bottom. Nozzles and contacts are visible (on the right)
The sequence of actions for disassembling the assembly is as follows:
Disconnect the inlet and outlet connections. If they are filled with scale, the pump does not pump water well. They should be cleaned, rinsed and blown out.
Unscrew the screws securing the motor housing to the pump chamber.
Figure 3 Beginning of disassembly of the pump
Carefully separate the impeller-pump chamber and the motor housing. In this case, you need to take care of the silicone gasket. If it is worn out or damaged, it must be replaced with a serviceable one.
There may be scale in the chamber that prevents the impeller from turning. It must be carefully removed with a plastic or wooden spatula. The use of sharp metal objects is not recommended as it may damage the camera body.
Figure 4 Scale in the chamber
After dismantling the impeller, a magnet recessed in the chamber body becomes visible, which is also susceptible to scale deposits. It must be cleaned with care. You can do this with a screwdriver, but it is safer to use a plastic or wooden spatula.
Figure 5 Scale hinders the rotation of the impeller
Figure 6 Cleaning the magnet from dirt
After descaling the pump parts, carefully reassemble it in the reverse order of disassembly. Particular attention should be paid to the uniform tightening of the screws securing the electric motor to the pump casing and the even laying of the gasket.
After assembly, you need to carry out a test switch-on. If the pump still does not work, it will have to be replaced. The engine is made non-separable and cannot be repaired.
What to do if the hand pump does not work? It is much simpler. Actually, it consists of a single part - a corrugated cylinder. If it is worn out and leaky, then it ceases to perform its functions and to pump air into the flask.
Figure 7 Dirty hand pump
In this case, it must be replaced. To replace it, you will have to remove the cover of the terpomot and disassemble it. On some models, the hand pump is pressed against the top cover, which is fastened with several screws. These screws will have to be unscrewed. On other models, the cover holding the hand pump cylinder is latched. They must be squeezed out with a thin screwdriver, being careful. If the latches break, you will have to change the entire cover, and it costs from one and a half to two and a half thousand rubles.
Figure 8 Spare part for hand pump
Video (click to play).
The hand pump may not pump water in one more case - if the silicone gasket of the thermo pot lid is leaking. In this case, the air blown in by the button flows freely outside, and water is not supplied through the spout. In this case, it will be necessary to replace the gasket. To do this, you will need to disassemble the case. On some models, the gasket can be gently picked up with a spatula or thin screwdriver. On others, you have to remove the flask.
