In detail: do-it-yourself uaz patriot pump repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Replacing (removing) a water pump, popularly called a pump, is made if it is necessary to access other procedures, for example, when removing the timing belt, or when replacing the pump itself. The main pump malfunctions are whistling, leaks along the shaft, ineffective work on pumping coolant, which is manifested by an increase in engine temperature, due to wear of the pump blades.
If you decide to carry out any related work related to the water pump (pump) of the UAZ Patriot cooling system, then revise the pump itself, maybe it needs to be replaced. It is best to replace it immediately, since the laboriousness of the pump removal and installation procedure is high.
Let's make a reservation right away that all procedures for removing the pump are shown with the radiator of the cooling system removed. To remove the pump you will need a 12 ”wrench, a 6” hex wrench, a flat-blade screwdriver and a mounting spade, as well as all those tools that will be mentioned in the reference articles.
First of all, it is necessary to drain the coolant - "Replacing the UAZ Patriot coolant". Next, remove the power steering pump from the bracket (see "Replacing the power steering pump for UAZ Patroit"). It is also necessary to remove the viscous coupling of the fan drive (see "Removal and installation of the UAZ Patriot viscous coupling"). And the last thing that is removed to prepare for dismantling the pump is the drive belt of the generator and water pump (see "Replacing the drive belt of the generator and water pump UAZ Patriot").
To remove the pulley and reflector on the pump pulley, fix the pulley with a screwdriver and remove the 3 screws securing it ...
Removing the reflector and pulley ...
Unscrew the 3 bolts securing the power steering pump bracket ...
We remove the bracket from the car ...
We loosen the clamps on the pipes suitable for the pump ...
Unscrew the 2 bolts in front of the pump ...
After that, the pump (pump) can be removed from the car ...
Before installing the pump, clean the sealing surfaces and install new gaskets.
You can also apply a thin coat of sealant to the gaskets.
The pump is installed in the reverse order. Further, all those nodes are installed that were removed in preparation for the removal of the UAZ Patriot pump.
The pump (water pump) is the main component of the cooling system of any ICE (internal combustion engine) with water cooling, that is, where some kind of liquid circulates all the time, be it antifreeze, antifreeze or even water. The pump looks like a pump with impeller (s), due to which the movement of fluid through the system is created.
Video (click to play). |
Sometimes it happens that the pump for some reason ceases to function normally, as a result of which the engine starts to warm up and can easily jam, and this is already a large repair expense, in fact, overhaul. To avoid all this, it is necessary to replace the part with a new one every several thousand km, as prescribed by the regulations, or drive until the characteristic signs of an imminent pump breakdown appear.
There may be several reasons why the pumps on the UAZ Patriot break down. The main one is the wear of the pulley hub bearing, due to the ingress of coolant into it (bearing) through a leaky seal (oil seal), for example. But, there may be other reasons:
- Violation of the integrity of the oil seal. It can happen if you use the "flushing" of the cooling system of an incomprehensible production.
- Damage, corrosion of the impeller (blades) of the pump, mainly due to low-quality antifreeze antifreeze.
- The most "harmless" malfunction is the flow of coolant through the gasket between the pump and the engine block, here you can simply change the gasket, or even better, use a sealant.
As a rule, the pump begins to signal that something is "wrong" with it long before it completely breaks down and stops performing its direct function, namely, to cool the engine. What are these signs:
- The easiest way to test a pump is to look at it. If the oil seal is already leaking fluid, then you will see drips around the pump. Traces of some modern antifreezes are clearly visible in ultraviolet light.
- If there are no visual signs of a breakdown, start the engine and listen if an incomprehensible whistle or grinding sound is heard - there may be problems with the bearing or impeller. The "killed" bearing also gives out the play of the pulley hub.
- Does the engine get warm all the time, even in cool weather? This is a direct signal to check the operation of the pump first. It may be that a seemingly whole pump, which does not emit any sounds, no longer pumps liquid, for example, because the blades were "eaten" by counterfeit antifreeze or they were simply broken off (some of them).
It is easy to check the operation of the pump, just unscrew the plug of the expansion barrel and look in there. Press the gas, asking an assistant, or using the gas cable - if a bubbling (movement is visible) of the coolant appears in the expansion barrel, then the pump is working. It should be visible how liquid flows into the tank from the upper hoses (return).
The pump for the UAZ Patriot with the ZMZ 409 engine is usually changed entirely to a new one, although if you wish, you can try to repair it yourself. There are VN repair kits for many UAZ engines, including the 409 engine. The repair kit includes new ones:
- bearing
- stuffing box
- impeller
But, first you have to remove the old pump from the engine.
Removal of the water pump is also done when access to other parts of the engine is needed, for example, when replacing the timing. In this case, it is still recommended to inspect the pump to identify defects, since the pump replacement procedure is quite laborious.
Before removing the pump from the car, you need to prepare the car itself and the necessary tools, you will need:
- open-end wrench for 12 (or head for 12);
- hexagon 6;
- 7 spanner wrench for unscrewing the clamps;
- flat-blade screwdriver;
- mounting blade.
Further, the replacement sequence is as follows:
- The UAZ Patriot car must be placed on the handbrake, or place stops under the wheels. Then the coolant is drained.
- The power steering pump is removed from the bracket.
- The viscous clutch of the fan drive is being dismantled.
- It is necessary to dismantle the drive belt of the generator and pump.
- Remove the pulley and the pulley deflector by fixing the pulley with a screwdriver and remove the 3 screws that secure it.
- It is necessary to unscrew the 3 bolts securing the bracket for the power steering pump (hydraulic booster) and remove the bracket.
- Loosen the clamps that secure the inlet pipes to the pump.
- Unscrew the 2 bolts at the front of the pump and one at the back, and then remove the pump from the car.
Regardless of whether you removed the pump just to check its condition, or to access other engine components - after removal, you must in any case replace the gasket with a new one to avoid coolant leakage. Also, be sure to clean the contact surface with which the gasket comes into contact with all kinds of deposits. It is recommended to apply a thin coat of sealant to the gasket.
Some craftsmen put an additional pump, this is necessary if it is planned to install a second stove in the interior of an SUV.
Installation of a new pump is carried out in the reverse order of removal.
Removal and installation of the water pump
The water pump is removed to access other parts, as well as to repair or replace it if noise occurs during operation, the level of which exceeds the usual level and which appears when a large radial play of the pump shaft is formed. Dismantling the pump is a rather laborious work, therefore, in the event of a malfunction, we recommend replacing the pump assembly. You will need: a "12" wrench, a "6" hexagon, a flat-blade screwdriver, a mounting spade. Work on removal and installation of the water pump is shown with the radiator of the engine cooling system removed.
1. Drain the engine cooling system.
2. Remove the power steering pump from the bracket.
3. Remove the fan drive viscous clutch.
4. Remove the alternator and water pump drive belt.
5. Having fixed the pulley from turning, unscrew the three bolts of its fastening
6
... Remove the pulley deflector and pulley.7
... Remove the three bolts securing the power steering pump bracket9
... Loosen the thermostat hose and coolant intake hose clamps.1
1. Remove the other two front bolts1
2. Unscrew one bolt from the back 13. Then remove the water pump. 14. Clean the mating surface from the old gasket.Install the water pump and all removed parts in reverse order. Be sure to apply sealant to the mating surfaces of the water pump and cylinder block.
Fill with coolant and remove air plugs from the cooling system.
The main component of every car is the engine. In order for the engine to function properly, the design has a cooling system that allows you to maintain the temperature of the engine and not exceed the normalized value. The lack of a cooling system leads to immediate failure of the vehicle engine. An important function in cooling the engine of an UAZ Patriot SUV is played by a water pump or pump. It is about this product that today's article will tell.
The pump provides continuous circulation of coolant in the system of the UAZ Patriot. The pump is a pump with blades that rotate to provide continuous movement of coolant.
If the pump stops functioning for any reason, the temperature in the engine immediately rises, which leads to the boiling of the power unit. What are the reasons for the malfunction of the pump of the ZMZ-409 engine on the UAZ Patriot exist, we will consider in more detail.
The main cause of pump failure is a leak in the cooling system. This can damage the seal, whereby the coolant penetrates to the pump bearing and destroys it. In order to prevent such a cause of breakdown, it is necessary to periodically carry out checking measures for the tightness of the hoses.
In addition, the following types of pump malfunctions are possible:
- Gasket leakage.
- The integrity of the stuffing box is broken.
- Bearing wear.
- Impeller corrosion (due to poor quality antifreeze).
This kind of malfunction can be identified in the following ways:
- The presence of extraneous noise emitted from the engine compartment. Indicates bearing failure.
- Increased vibration of the pump.
- Antifreeze color change.
It is more correct to eliminate any malfunction at an early sign, rather than after changing the whole unit or the cooling system.
Took the blades with low-quality coolant
Replacing the pump ZMZ-409 Euro-3 engine may be required in two cases: when it is necessary to repair this device or replace it; if necessary, access to the units of the ZMZ-409 engine of the UAZ Patriot SUV.
Before proceeding with the replacement, make sure you have the following tool:
Replacing the water pump ZMZ-409 Euro-3 engine is carried out as follows:
-
The UAZ Patriot car is installed on the handbrake and the coolant is drained from the system.
Next, we proceed with the repair work. If a product replacement is required, then before installing a new pump, it is necessary to clean the sealing places and be sure to install new gaskets.
In addition, a layer of sealant must be applied to the gaskets to avoid fluid leakage. Installation of a new pump is carried out in the reverse order of removal. This completes the replacement of the VN ZMZ-409 Euro-3 engine of the UAZ Patriot SUV.
For your information! If it is planned to install a second stove in the interior of the UAZ Patriot Euro-3 SUV, then the additional pump will only allow continuous circulation of coolant for the heater.
Summing up, it should be noted that the pump is a mandatory device that must be in good working order. Therefore, you should periodically monitor its condition. Successful renovation work!
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To repair a water pump manufactured by PJSC ZMZ on a ZMZ-409 engine, a repair kit 406.1307002-10 is produced, consisting of a bearing, an impeller and a seal.
Dismantling, repair and assembly of the water pump of the ZMZ-409 engine, repair kit 406.1307002-10, dimensions and clearances of parts.
Disassembly is carried out in the following order.
- Remove the impeller with a puller.
- Remove the pump pulley hub using a special tool.
- Unscrew the bearing retainer.
- Press the bearing out of the housing. The bearing is pressed out on a press or using a copper mandrel. For easier pressing, it is recommended to heat the water pump to a temperature of plus 80 degrees.
- Press the seal out of the pump housing.
Dimensions and clearances of the mating parts of the water pump housing, impeller, hub, pulley, bearing shaft of the water pump of the ZMZ-409 engine.
Before assembly, clean and flush the pump parts, remove deposits from the impeller, housing and cover. Check the value of the axial displacement of the outer bearing cage relative to the roller, which should not exceed 0.13 mm at a load of 5 kgf. The assembly of the water pump of the ZMZ-409 engine is carried out in the following order.
- Using a mandrel, press the bearing and roller assembly into the housing so that the seat for the retainer on the bearing race coincides with the hole in the pump housing.
- Using a mandrel, press the seal onto the bearing shaft and into the pump housing, making sure it is not skewed. To press in the seal, use a mandrel with which the required compression of the seal spring is ensured.
- Screw on the bearing retainer and tighten it so that it does not self-unscrew.
- Press the pump pulley hub onto the bearing shaft, keeping the dimension 106.0 + -0.2 mm.
- Press the impeller onto the bearing shaft, keeping the distance between the impeller end and the pump casing end of no more than 14.2 mm. It is not allowed to apply pressing force to the back sides of the blades in order to avoid their deformation.
- Turn the impeller with the roller. It is not allowed to touch the impeller on the housing.
When pressing in, it is necessary to exclude the possibility of transferring the pressing force through the rolling elements of the bearing to the pump housing in order to avoid damage and breakage of the bearing. A sealant is applied to the outer surface and shoulders of the metal seal sleeve to ensure that the seal is seated tightly in the water pump housing. Before pressing the seal, assess and ensure that the sealant coating is not damaged. Install the water pump on the ZMZ-409 engine with a new gasket.
If the water pump malfunctions, it is best to replace it entirely. However, you can restrict yourself to replacing the seal and shaft with bearing.
Cross section of a water pump
a = 25.8 - 26.2 (22.8 - 23.2) mm
b = 2.0 mm
1 - shaft and bearings (in the figure the pump is shown with an electromagnetic fan; the shaft with a fan with a viscous coupling is longer)
2 - hub
3 - casing
4 - sliding ring seals
5 - intermediate ring
6 - retaining ring
7 - impeller
The Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant produces good domestic road vehicles, which have managed to interest many motorists. If you are one of those who have been conquered by this vehicle, then you know that models manufactured before 2012 were equipped with only one stove. However, after this year, the car plant decided to introduce two stoves into the car, thus increasing the level of comfort, favoring excellent heating of the passenger compartment. Unfortunately, in spite of the presence of two heaters at once, sometimes one has to experience a piercing shiver, since the cabin is "dominated" by the coolness, which is not inferior to warm air currents.
In most cases, the owners do not want to put up with this state of affairs. This is correct, since the level of efficiency of the heater determines not only the level of comfort for the driver and passenger, but also driving safety. On frosty days, ice forms on the glass, which can be easily removed if the heater is working properly. If the windows remain icy, this entails practically zero visibility, impeding safe movement. For this reason, it is very important to monitor the operating status of the heater and other devices included in the heating and cooling system. If a problem is identified, action should be taken immediately to correct the failure.
Various unpleasant "surprises" can provoke poor heating of the passenger compartment in a UAZ Patriot car. Among them, the failure in the operation of the heater pump of the UAZ Patriot car, as well as the poor-quality operation of the pump, stand out. If you also found confirmation that the pump or the pump of the heater needs repair work, we recommend that you help your "iron friend" with your own hands. Do not be alarmed if you have absolutely no idea what actions you have to take. We will instruct you, help you figure out some important nuances, thanks to which the effectiveness of the repair you carry out will not be inferior to the repair carried out at the service station. Unless you, as a beginner, will need to spend more time. However, you do not need to spend your financial savings on paying for the services of the masters.
LOFT-STYLE BRICK WALL -
Video REPAIR UAZ. REPAIR UAZ - PUMP REPLACEMENT. DIY - Repair of UAZ. Repair of UAZ - replacement of pump. channel with your OWN HANDS Handmade DIY
Replacing the pump with engines 417 UAZ "loaf"
Nice car, especially if you like to turn the nuts :)
This is not a hole for the grease, this is a control hole, it starts pouring from it when the bearing dies and breaks the oil seal
There is an error on slide N1, it would be more correct - during installation. 🙂 I liked the video! Everything is very clear, accessible and fun :)
change the gasket on the old pump and replace it. And this aluminum will flow right away then most likely it will tear your radiator. In short, it will bring a lot of restlessness with itself. A personal experience.
Yes, it does not happen on the UAZ, I went, bought, installed, without a grinder in any way :)) The pump itself did not dare, the master changed (one) umz-421
Why did they change the pump? Did not play, did not dangle, did not flow.
God forbid such grief of masters)))) One hand holds the fan, which is screwed to the pulley, and the other tries to turn the impeller and states that it is jammed. Hands not just out of the ass, but did not grow at all. And you don't need to remove the radiator. First you need to unscrew the fan, then remove the pump. In short, I wish everyone never to get to such apprentices.
I changed the pump last year. Not found separately. Bought assembled. A year did not leave. In August, I installed the St. Petersburg PEKAR. Also aluminum. But more massive and seemingly more reliable. Let's see how long it will last.
I'm suffering to take a loaf or 469
The belt on the gene for many "Loafs" is different. And it's better to have it in stock. About Magadan you are in vain.
Ha! High luxury is the most unkillable mobile of all times and peoples.
BUGAGA. Kentukha you dabble! Holds the fan and tries to turn the pump, it's a pedestrian! Blah rams, the further I look, the more funny! The hole in the pump is not for the grease gun, but for draining the coolant if the oil seal leaks! Fuck so much reticent shit?
what are the brackets attached to the thermostat cover nuts?
the belt is always impossible to throw off. it is thrown off the crankshaft pulley with rotation.
Yes. blooper on a blooper !! then they say that the UAZ is shit! when such crooked hands climb there.
FUCKING. pads kerdyk pump died. BUGAGSHA. MOTHER A FURA KILLED ME.
Kick hemorrhagic I don’t understand why all this seems to be in abundance for you, and you spend time on useless, non-movable parts, you want to become movable, no offense, but I don’t understand wasting time on the fact that money will pull out twice as much as you can drive.
In order to remove the pump, you do not need to remove the radiator) And remove the fan separately and pull out the pump assembly)
Forum of the All-Russian Club of UAZ Patriot Owners
Message Ezhek »Tue Jan 21, 2014 18:45
Message Nordserge "Tue Jan 21, 2014 19:49 pm
Message Ezhek »Tue Jan 21, 2014 20:00
Message leo2 Tue Jan 21, 2014 20:19
The gur must be removed and taken aside. Do not touch the thermostat.
Everything is done according to the murzilka. A year ago, the deputy engineer answered the same question, but I did not find the topic
You can crawl to all the bolts without dancing with a tambourine.
It is better to immediately replace short hoses leaving the pump with new ones; if you use old ones, they will leak. They are oak there, sho kapets.
It took me 3+ hours at one time (I did it for the first time).
I took the impeller the same as it was (Firm ZMZ - before buying, I read the difference with counterfeit products and checked it when buying), with iron blades. The operating temperature of the motor has not changed.
Message Ezhek "Tue Jan 21, 2014 20:53 pm
leo2 wrote: Gur should be removed and taken aside. Do not touch the thermostat.
Everything is done according to the murzilka. A year ago, the deputy engineer answered the same question, but I did not find the topic
You can crawl to all the bolts without dancing with a tambourine.
It is better to immediately replace short hoses leaving the pump with new ones; if you use old ones, they will leak. They are oak there, sho kapets.
It took me 3+ hours at one time (I did it for the first time).
I took the impeller the same as it was (Firm ZMZ - before buying, I read the difference with counterfeit products and checked it when buying), with iron blades. The operating temperature of the motor has not changed.
Message Nordserge "Tue Jan 21, 2014 20:59 pm
Message ZamPoteh »Tue Jan 21, 2014 21:20
If the belt is not thrown off, then when pulling the pulley bolts, you can keep the pulley from turning with the belt. But a lot of problems from this.
It is better to throw off the belt and keep the pulley from turning the mounting paddle by inserting it between the heads of the two bolts and acting as a retaining lever.
Do not unscrew the bolts that have been removed immediately, first loosen the fasteners of all three.
It is better to remove the thermostat housing, it will be easier to “pull off” the pump and put it in place. To do this, keep the thermostat housing gasket in stock.
Before starting work, take care of the presence of pipes in stock: from the thermostat to the pump, the lower one from the radiator to the pump and from the return pipe to the pump.
leo2 right, they turn to stone. And what has not turned to stone can be torn.
Not all pump mounting bolts are the same length, so remember which hole you removed from which hole.
Before installing a new pump, unscrew the pump bearing retaining screw, screw the grease gun into this hole and sprinkle (only without much fanaticism). Unscrew the grease nipple and replace the locking screw.
Pumps E2 and E3 differ in the diameters of the pipes to the thermostat, the diameter is smaller by E3. And so they are interchangeable.
Message Ezhek »Tue Jan 21, 2014 21:21
Message leo2 »Tue Jan 21, 2014 21:22
The colored one is in the collection of files for Patras.
I did not mean the impeller, but a pump with exactly the same as the native iron impeller.
The hoses can be left and even tightened with a sealant, but there is nowhere to squeeze them with a clamp, they have lost all elasticity. Easier to replace with new ones. fortunately, they cost a penny and no additional efforts, except for unscrewing two clamps, do not need to be applied.
There are links to an overview of the pumps and a link to the off. website and download a file about the pump, competitors and counterfeit there
Message leo2 »Tue Jan 21, 2014 21:25
ZamPoteh wrote:
Not all pump mounting bolts are the same length, so remember which hole you removed from which hole.
Message Ezhek "Tue Jan 21, 2014 09:46 PM
If the belt is not thrown off, then when pulling the pulley bolts, you can keep the pulley from turning with the belt. But a lot of problems from this.
It is better to throw off the belt and keep the pulley from turning the mounting paddle by inserting it between the heads of the two bolts and acting as a retaining lever.
Do not unscrew the bolts that have been removed immediately, first loosen the fastening of all three.
It is better to remove the thermostat housing, it will be easier to “pull off” the pump and put it in place. To do this, keep the thermostat housing gasket in stock.
Before starting work, take care of the presence of pipes in stock: from the thermostat to the pump, the lower one from the radiator to the pump and from the return pipe to the pump.
leo2 right, they turn to stone. And what has not turned to stone can be torn.
Not all pump mounting bolts are the same length, so remember which hole you removed from which hole.
Before installing a new pump, unscrew the pump bearing retaining screw, screw the grease gun into this hole and sprinkle (only without much fanaticism). Unscrew the grease nipple and replace the locking screw.
Pumps E2 and E3 differ in the diameters of the pipes to the thermostat, the diameter is smaller by E3. And so they are interchangeable.
The water pump is removed to access other parts, as well as to repair or replace it if noise occurs during operation, the level of which exceeds the usual level and which appears when a large radial play of the pump shaft is formed.
Dismantling the pump is a rather laborious work, therefore, in the event of a malfunction, we recommend replacing the pump assembly.
You will need: a "12" wrench, a "6" hexagon, a flat-blade screwdriver, a mounting spade.
Work on removal and installation of the water pump is shown with the radiator of the engine cooling system removed.
1. Drain the liquid from the engine cooling system (see "Replacing the coolant").
2. Remove the power steering pump from the bracket (see "Replacing the power steering pump").
3. Remove the viscous coupling of the fan drive (see "Removal and installation of the viscous coupling").
4. Remove the alternator and water pump drive belt (see "Replacing the alternator and water pump drive belt").
5. Having fixed the pulley from turning, unscrew the three bolts of its fastening ...
UAZ is a fairly common car in our time. Its performance depends on the timely repair of certain units.
At the same time, it is advisable to use only high-quality elements that are made in accordance with all standards. You can purchase UAZ spare parts on specialized sites, where you can clarify their main characteristics.
And in this article we will tell you how to disassemble the pump for its repair.
Before proceeding with the disassembly of this unit, it must first be removed. This pump is mounted on several bolts that must be unscrewed.
It should be remembered that if the product has been used for a long time, it will be a little difficult to do this. Often, in order to remove the pump, it will be necessary to dismantle the radiator, since the fan impeller can rest against it.
The pump dismantling procedure is rather complicated, as it requires patience and a little endurance. If it is stuck, then you can use a special tool to move it and gradually remove it from the bolts.
Everything must be done very carefully, trying not to damage other parts of the car.
This procedure is required to repair certain parts of the pump, so as not to purchase the entire system as a complete assembly. This is most commonly done to replace the rubber-sealed washer.
The disassembly operation consists of several sequential stages:
- At the very beginning, we remove the impeller. For this, special mechanisms should be used. This will allow you to remove the rubber collar washer.
- After that, we unscrew the nut that secures the pulley hub and dismantle it.
- The next step is to remove the corkscrew and press the shaft with bearings out of the housing. This procedure is carried out on a special press.
When the pump is disassembled, all major parts can be replaced. To eliminate the main causes of the leak, new bearings, gaskets and other parts of the mechanism are installed.
Also, if the pump is no longer amenable to repair, then you can reinstall it. For this, a new part is simply acquired and mounted in place of the old one.
Please note that you need to select it according to the type of mounts, since some models may simply not fit your car brand.
The best option for repairing a pump is to entrust this procedure to specialists who will do everything quickly and efficiently.
The nuances of caring for the UAZ pump - in this video: