On the market there is a fairly large range of thresholds for body repair of the Passat B3. The best option is to choose strong, close to "native" thresholds, they will last longer and will be convenient to install.
During repair work on the thresholds of this model, it is important to consider the following features:
VIDEO
Body sills for Honda can be purchased both new and used. When choosing the latter, take into account their degree of wear and tear, pay attention to the price. Do not skimp on repairing your car yourself: then it will last longer.
Repair of removable thresholds on any car can be done quite easily with your own hands. This is due to the fact that this part can be processed simply by removing it, separately from the car. A very convenient option with a minimum of costs. However, here you should pay attention to some features:
Removable thresholds wear out faster and in case of damage (especially mechanical) they will have to be replaced with new ones.
Replacing the thresholds is very quick and does not require additional efforts or tools: the main thing is to choose a suitable replacement part.
Slight curvatures of removable thresholds can be easily straightened with hoods, and slight corrosion can be corrected with a thin layer of putty.
Self-repair of car sills is available even for beginners, especially if we are talking about minor damage. However, if the damage is serious and you do not know how to solve the problem, then it is better to contact the specialists from the auto repair shop.
method of repairing a "rotten" car threshold with your own hands.
Replacing the threshold is not an easy job for a craftsman and not a cheap pleasure for a car enthusiast. Some I had to hear from my clients "Can you somehow do without a replacement?", And there really is a way out, repair of the threshold with fiberglass.
The lower part of the threshold has large metal corrosion centers. It is not possible to repair using welding and patches, we will glue it from fiberglass.
Using a metal drill bit, we clean the area of corrosion and an area of 5-10 cm. Around.
Removal of corrosion.
At this stage, it is necessary to process the corrosion center, this is necessary for better adhesion of materials. We will use a well-known tool called "Rust converter" ... It is quite easy to use, you just have to follow the instructions on the product.
We fill in the missing cavities ("matrix", "blank").
To fill the void, you can use various means such as: plasticine, cardboard, polystyrene, wood, etc. In this case, the most optimal and convenient to use is polyurethane foam. Under its weight, the foam tends to "fall off", so you need to prepare in advance for this unpleasant moment. To do this, you need to prepare a stand, all the various tools at hand will do. In my case, it is a wooden board. To facilitate further work, I advise you to cover the stand, for example, with newspapers or film, since it will be quite difficult to separate the foam adhering to the tree.
Before starting to fill the cavities with foam, lightly dampen the surface with a regular garden sprayer. This is necessary for better adhesion to the metal.
We are waiting for the foam to dry.
Using a knife, we cut off the foam and create the most approximate shape of the threshold. For a more accurate removal of the plane, the foam can be leveled with a bar with P40-60 sandpaper.
Working with fiberglass requires some knowledge and a lot of patience. Before starting work with composite materials, it is necessary to protect the body from accidental ingress of resin drops. To do this, I advise you to cover the body with paper or film. The repair surface must be well cleaned and degreased. We dilute the polyester resin in the required amount. Polyester resin is diluted in a ratio of not more than 2% of the catalyst by volume of the resin. Using a brush, saturate the entire surface with resin, then apply glass mat with a density of 300gr / m2. For ease of use, it can be divided into two parts and we get the 150th. This is necessary so that the glass mat does not fall from its weight from the lower part of the threshold, so the build-up of layers should be done gradually, after each layer has dried. Two layers of 300 glass mat will be enough. To insure against "sliding" of all this mass, make some kind of support under the lower part of the threshold.When the resin is dry, the resulting fiberglass must be prepared for the application of the putty. Grinding with coarse abrasive P40-60.
We apply putty.
Absolutely any putty on fiberglass can be applied. If a thicker layer is required to level the surface, then it is better to use a filler with fiberglass, then universal or with an aluminum filler. After leveling the surface, it is necessary to prime it, apply an anti-gravel coating on top of the soil and paint.
This method can repair not only the thresholds of the car but also arches, fenders, doors and more. All this, of course, is not durable, approximately the service life of such a structure ranges from 2-5 years, of course it still depends on the quality of the master.
The thresholds of the car, like any external parts of the body, over time acquire a certain amount of damage associated with the operation of the car. Many drivers suffer the fate of repairing this unit, especially if they own a car with significant mileage and already a decent service life. Carrying out repair work with your own hands is a very real task if you have the skills and simple tools, in some cases - welding.
Among most cars, there are only two types of thresholds:
Welded, which are integral with the body and the side member. Their main task is to give the body additional rigidity, to protect the supporting structure from fatal damage. Do-it-yourself repair of this unit is possible if there is welding, since, being an inseparable structure, this part is subject to corrosion over time. Such elements are made of metal.
Removable. They are less common on models of a specific orientation. The main task of such thresholds is to protect the side members and the body from small stones, gravel, sand. Since this element is removable, during the repair it may be advisable to completely replace the part with a new one. Also, the repair of these products is much easier to carry out, since they are usually attached to the body using ordinary self-tapping screws. This allows you to remove the threshold and carry out the repair procedure with your own hands in a convenient plane. Such parts are most often made of metal, but rarely, but plastic products are also found.
The main types of damage to thresholds (regardless of the type of such elements) include:
Mechanical damage as a result of impacts from other cars, stones, gravel and other impacts. They are very typical for domestic reality (it's no secret that most of the roads in our country leave much to be desired). Problems of this kind not only damage the aesthetic appearance, but, in large numbers, can affect driving safety (if the spar is damaged). Also, if the paintwork is damaged (for a part made of metal), corrosion progresses.
Corrosion processes.Over time, under the influence of various factors, the thresholds lose their paint and varnish layer, the oxidation process begins in them (they are relevant, respectively, only for metal parts), which subsequently leads to the appearance of corrosion. As a result of the appearance and spread of rust, the sills will eventually lose all their main functions, in addition to this, the aesthetic appearance of the entire car will become questionable. Methods for eliminating these negative consequences of long-term use are different both in application and in the cost of materials (it all depends on the specific case, the area of rust and other factors).
VIDEO
Depending on the nature of the damage, restoration is resorted to in different ways:
To fix small dents, repair of car sills for removable elements, it is necessary to dismantle this part from its regular place (most often it is fastened with simple self-tapping screws). After that, place it on a plane convenient for work and use a mallet to straighten the damaged areas. Then, when the paintwork peels off (this often happens if you do not calculate the impact force), paint the damaged area with your own hands or apply paint to the entire part. Also, when repairing a metal part with your own hands, it is necessary to apply an anti-corrosion compound to the treated area.
If the removable thresholds are mostly damaged by rust (holes are through), the best option would be to replace them.
If the threshold is non-removable (in most cases), do-it-yourself repairs will have to be carried out from the outside. In the presence of minor damage, dents can be removed using a special tool (vacuum inverter). A small-diameter hole is drilled in a certain part of the product, then an inverter is inserted into the hole and under the influence of high pressure the dent is straightened.
The situation is more difficult if the threshold is severely damaged by rust. In this condition, it is necessary to perform a complete cleaning of the surface (using sandpaper, cleaning is carried out, then the surface is degreased and painted).
It is rather difficult to carry out this procedure with your own hands, it is advisable to have one assistant.
In the most advanced cases, welding can be used. However, the use of welding occurs only when it is almost impossible to replace a part or repair it with your own hands. There are many welding methods on the market.
If there is a desire, a certain tool and sufficient time, the repair of car thresholds becomes quite possible. Correct application of the acquired knowledge guarantees a successful result.
Welcome to blog my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2102!
In this article, we will consider how to replace thresholds with your own hands.
The threshold is a stamped panel that is a structural part of the car's structural body.
In the monocoque structure, the sill panels provide structural reinforcement that affects the rigidity of the vehicle underbody as well as torsional rigidity. While the front and rear have zones of planned crumpling, the side skirts provide a mid-body stiffness that should remain as intact as possible in an accident.Thus, the safety of the driver and passengers depends on the state of the thresholds.
Thresholds, especially their lower part, are often overlooked during washing. Road salt and other contaminants left on them accelerate the occurrence of corrosion. Also, these elements are constantly exposed to stones and sand flying off the road while driving and acting as an abrasive.
Since the thresholds are a closed, unventilated structure, they are vulnerable to corrosion. The worst aspect of threshold corrosion is that it starts from the inside and spreads outward. Thus, corrosion becomes visible when the threshold has already been significantly destroyed. In advanced cases, it is even impossible to use the special jacking points to raise the machine, since these areas have lost their strength due to corrosion. Exhaust gases that can enter the car interior can become another problem caused by both the rusted sills and the underbody.
The outer part of the threshold is not the main power part of this structure. It provides rigidity to the body, but most of the rigidity is provided by the internal reinforcement, the connector and the inside of the sill. These panels are spot-welded together to form a box-shaped hollow structure that takes up the bulk of the loads. This design gives the vehicle longitudinal strength. The outer part of the sill provides a more cosmetic function.
Each inner part of the sill plays a role in providing structural rigidity. The entire sill structure reinforces the underbody.
An example of the design of a car sill
The inside of the sill is the part that can be seen from the inside of the car.
Connector - This part can be seen from underneath the vehicle.
The internal reinforcement is usually a flat steel element stamped for reinforcement.
The outer part of the threshold is the part of the threshold that can be seen from the outside, and it is called the threshold.
The design of the threshold for a particular vehicle may differ from that shown in the illustration.
You need to raise the car and level it.It is better that the body is supported evenly at several points to avoid skewing of the body.
When completely replacing the threshold, it is better to remove the doors. This will give good access and prevent damage to the doors during welding. When removing the doors, it is better to leave the hinges on the body so that their position does not change. In most cases, it is also necessary to remove the front fender. Removing the front fender may require additional disassembly. So, for example, you have to remove the front bumper and headlight.
If the threshold is being replaced due to corrosion, then it is necessary to clean the area around the rusty places with a margin in order to determine the boundaries of the rust. Thus, it is possible to understand which areas of the threshold can be left and which ones need to be cut out.
To replace the thresholds, it is necessary to dismantle some interior details, such as plastic cladding, seats, and a rubber seal. The carpet can be rolled up.
Protect the paintwork of the car, glass and interior from the ingress of sparks from welding and grinders.
Disconnect and insulate the battery terminals before welding.
When welding the thresholds on the flanges, through the holes, position the welding torch with the wire in the center of the hole so that the wire touches the metal to which the panel will be welded. It is necessary that the electric arc is formed precisely on the metal to which the panel will be welded, and not on the edge of the hole. Start cooking in this position and do not move the welding torch until the hole is nearly full. Then move the torch in a spiral motion towards the edges. So the penetration to the welded metal will be good and the welded joint will be strong.
Sand the welds. When stripping, do not remove too much of the seam as this will weaken it.
Make anti-corrosion protection. Epoxy primer can be applied directly to the weld prior to overcoating. Treat the threshold from the inside with an anti-corrosive spray compound through the technological holes.
Repair manuals usually mention two types of connections between the new threshold and the remnants of the old one. This is an overlap joint and a butt joint with an insert. A simple butt joint can also be used.Let's take a look at the features of these connections and how they are implemented.
Butt joint with insert
The connection of the old and new parts of the thresholds is reinforced by inserts made from the remains of the same threshold. Butt joint with insert allows to achieve a smoother surface than overlap, which does not require a lot of putty to level. The insert makes it easier to join the new threshold, reduces the likelihood of burn-through during welding, and also reduces heat distortion during welding by dissipating heat. The connection is stronger. Depending on the connection point, the insert may not always be used. Such a connection is usually applied at the edges of the sill. Where the threshold meets the B-pillar, an overlap or butt joint without an insert is usually used.
The size of the inserts can be from 5 to 10 cm. Depending on the configuration of the threshold, the insert is cut into 2–4 parts. The flanges are cut, with the help of which the spot welding holds the parts of the panels together. Thus, the inserts can normally fit inside the thresholds. They can be welded through drilled holes (8 mm) or temporarily screwed in with self-tapping screws, the holes from which are then welded. The inserts must be treated with welding primer. When joining parts of the thresholds, it is necessary to provide a gap of sufficient size so that the molten metal during welding normally penetrates to the insert, and it is welded together with two parts of the threshold. The width of the gap depends on the thickness of the metal and must be at least 1.6 mm and not more than 3.2 mm.
Lap joint
When connecting with an overlap, the old threshold should be marked and cut so that there is a margin of a few centimeters for the overlap. A new threshold is placed on top of the remains of the old threshold. Further, along the line of the edges of the new threshold, welding is performed with an airtight seam. The main advantage of this type of connection is the ease of joining the new threshold with the remnants of the old one. No need to carefully trim the edges. This is especially true when you have to join complex-shaped places, for example, a connection with a B-pillar. With an overlapping connection, there is less chance of burn-through through the metal.The disadvantage is the need to use a larger amount of putty when leveling the joints, as well as a predisposition to the appearance of corrosion on the reverse side of the threshold, due to the complexity of the anti-corrosion treatment of such a joint from the inside.
Butt joint
Video (click to play).
Butt joint requires careful adjustment of the new threshold with the remnants of the old one, as well as a certain skill when welding. The gap between the parts to be welded should be approximately equal to the thickness of the metal to be welded. A butt joint without an insert turns out to be less strong, but this is not critical, since the outer part of the threshold does not take on the entire load. If implemented correctly, the docked place turns out to be even and requires a minimum amount of putty, and is also normally treated with an anti-corrosion compound on the back of the threshold by spraying with special agents.
