Do-it-yourself Mercedes w210 thresholds repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of thresholds for Mercedes w210 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

evo »16 May 2013, 00:21

Benz210 »16 May 2013, 04:40

sledge hammer »16 May 2013, 09:41

If you sprinkle the shit with powder, we get the shit covered with powder.

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I do not answer repair questions in PM
do not waste your and my time

evo »16 May 2013, 16:46

sledge hammer »16 May 2013, 17:00

If you sprinkle the shit with powder, we get the shit covered with powder.

—————————————————-
I do not answer repair questions in PM
do not waste your and my time

evo »16 May 2013, 17:13

sledge hammer »16 May 2013, 17:48

If you sprinkle the shit with powder, we get the shit covered with powder.

—————————————————-
I do not answer repair questions in PM
do not waste your and my time

Benz210 »16 May 2013, 18:02

evo »16 May 2013, 18:04

but hell knows, found in autodoc only BODYPARTS and KLOKKERHOLM.
for the lift and jack the same amplifier, originally wanted ethno-rubber bands, but on the recommendation of the repairer there will be only metal

for me, instead of the thresholds, the channel is welded the very gut

-NORTH- »16 May 2013, 18:29

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Video (click to play).

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Mercedes W210, Review of the upcoming repair. Do-it-yourself Meren restoration in garage facilities. On this car, repair and restoration of thresholds, repair of the floor under the feet of the driver and front passenger, repair of jacks, repair and partial replacement of the cover of the front left glass, and even then, little things. )))
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Creative of Tagazi Il y a mois

it is imperative to look at the condition of the water channels, my Merc's water channels were clogged with earth and the water flowed under the feet of the driver and passenger, and the whole parolon was always damp

The last video of the playlist for 210 Merc is just about this problem. The rain drain was completely blocked.

Continuation of the repair in the following videos. I look forward to your comments.

Send me your E-mail, or phone, we will discuss your problems.

Andrey19 ka Il y a 2 mois

Can you please tell me the cost of the repair? One sill with a part of the bottom (which is in the worst condition) without painting and with painting. Thank you

+ AvtoPapa BY This is not the worst option I have to do. I think everything will be ok.

AvtoPapa BY Il y a 2 mois

I don’t even know what to say, and how to evaluate this work for the client, but this rotten thing will have to tinker with.

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Otis 02 Sep 2010

Here is a car that came to me for repair.

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Otis 02 Sep 2010

After disassembly, it turned out that the machine is more rotten than broken.

The front right jack is finally missing.

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Otis 02 Sep 2010

Rear jacks are also in poor condition

On the left side of the case is a little better - the jack is in place.

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Otis 02 Sep 2010

For repair, a muzzle was purchased from a donor.

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Otis 02 Sep 2010

Let's go back to the rapids.
For comparison - old and new, find. differences!

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Otis 02 Sep 2010

Well, in general, in order to put new thresholds, you need to put everything in order inside.

We separate the jack from the donor and fit it into place.

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Otis 02 Sep 2010

I completely forgot, we have a broken car!
You need to change the left mudguard, a piece of the right lane. side member (the accident was before), transverse bumper reinforcement.
Yes . the outer part of the front side members rotted into dust. It is not clear how the spring cups were held.

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Otis 02 Sep 2010

We will return to the rapids later, and now we are starting to put in order the pyred lojerons.

We drill the bunk. part and nadonore too.

I drilled the mudguard too.

Here is a trace from the previous accident

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Otis 02 Sep 2010

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ZonT 02 Sep 2010

the volume of work is not for children, I look forward to continuing.

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ZonT 02 Sep 2010

P.S. Wasn't it easier to restore and weld the muzzle from the donor instead of the old one? But I'm shocked by 210, really trash and not cars.

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Otis 02 Sep 2010

Well, okay, we clean the rust with a squeegee on the grinder, where things are really bad, we cut it out, put the patches.
And we begin to slowly collect the machine.

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global-alex1 02 Sep 2010

Kostik! you are as always on top. COOL! wait for a visit before I arrive in winter

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Otis 02 Sep 2010

We reinforce the side member inserts with rhombic overlays.

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Otis 02 Sep 2010

Inserted a piece of the top cup

The left one already looks like something

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Serega 292 02 Sep 2010

I apologize of course that I got into Temka .. now I am engaged in the restoration of my 123rd I bought myself a semiautomatic device. restored the arches completely to the rear, but then it became a little difficult .. a question about how to properly restore the bottom. I completely cut out all the rot (I made a rectangular cutout parallel to the boxes). it is not very successful to clean the metal from the old anticorrosive. how to weld new metal from above or from the bottom of the bottom, I would not like to make a collective farm. and the better to remove rust. thanks in advance!

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Mercedes W210. The beginning of the renovation. Replacing thresholds with your own hands.

Mercedes W210 Replacement, installation of thresholds.

W210 sill replacement and adjustment, side 2.

replacement of thresholds for a Mercedes 210 body part 1

Remove the plastic threshold w210

evo »16 May 2013, 00:21

Benz210 »16 May 2013, 04:40

sledge hammer »16 May 2013, 09:41

If you sprinkle the shit with powder, we get the shit covered with powder.

—————————————————-
I do not answer repair questions in PM
do not waste your and my time

evo »16 May 2013, 16:46

sledge hammer »16 May 2013, 17:00

If you sprinkle the shit with powder, we get the shit covered with powder.

—————————————————-
I do not answer repair questions in PM
do not waste your and my time

evo »16 May 2013, 17:13

sledge hammer »16 May 2013, 17:48

If you sprinkle the shit with powder, we get the shit covered with powder.

—————————————————-
I do not answer repair questions in PM
do not waste your and my time

Benz210 »16 May 2013, 18:02

evo »16 May 2013, 18:04

for me, instead of the thresholds, the channel is welded the very gut

-NORTH- »16 May 2013, 18:29

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Author igrun31 in the forum Photo and video reports on repair and maintenance W210 9 415 Author Bars-230
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Posted by greks in the forum Frequently asked repair questions 0 281 Posted by greks
02 Aug 2018, 16:30
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October 29, 2017 9:23 pm
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Posted by caban01230 in the forum Repair Zone 8 6519 Posted by tss
17 Oct 2014, 08:45

Users browsing this forum: no registered users and 1 guests

Repair of Mercedes W210 thresholds should be done when damage, distortions, dents and corrosion, in advanced cases, holes become noticeable visually. Basically, the thresholds are made of steel, aluminum, alloyed with chrome, therefore, the damage to them is the same as on other similar elements. The service life of the thresholds is up to 7 years and even more, of course, if you did not have an accident, did not touch the threshold during inaccurate parking and did not damage it with a jack during unskillful repairs on your own.

Thresholds on the Mercedes W210 are of different types: removable and non-removable, internal and external, they can be welded to the bottom of the body, or they can simply be bolted. To extend their service life, they can be painted, sometimes special plastic linings are installed on them, a silicone or rubber seal can go along the edge, often there is an anti-slip corrugated liner on the outer sills. The threshold can be reinforced to support loads of up to 200 kg.

The cost of repairing thresholds in St. Petersburg:

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= ASSEMBLY MERCEDES W211. HOW TO SUPPLY PLASTIC THRESHOLDERS TO MERCEDES =

In most cases, the breakdown of the seat heating is caused by an elementary wire break in the heating elements of the heating, as a rule, due to mechanical influences (pressing the knee on the seat, etc.).Those. it is logical to assume that this very wire is quite simple to solder and insulate, i.e. to repair the dealers advise to buy a "pillow", and since heating in most cases is relevant only on leather seats, the cushions cost about 300 - 400 euros (lower parts of the seat). as practice shows, they are actually repairable, i.e. you can repair the heating on your own.Many car owners of MB cars in w210 and w202 bodies with leather interiors are united by the same problem - the seat heating does not work. As a rule, the backrest works, but the lower part does not work. For many w210 owners, the cost of repairs is already known, which is announced in the services, and it ranges from 300 - 400 euros only for the lower part of the seat. But in fact, it can be easily repaired on its own, without buying a pillow assembly. Actually, this page is dedicated to how to do it with your own hands.Let's immediately decide on the repair, that is, we will understand whether it is worth climbing into the heating or the problem is not in the seat.
We take the tester and climb into the front of the seat. We see something like the following.Everything will depend on the configuration of your car (that is, if you have a fire extinguisher there, it will interfere a lot.), But the heating wires are the same everywhere. It is necessary to remove the terminal and measure the resistance. (measured between horizontal contacts, one pair is responsible for the backrest, the second for the lower part of the seat)Having measured the resistance and if it is about 3 ohms and 3.5 ohms or about these values, then everything is fine and there is no need to touch the seat at all, look for a malfunction in another place (in general, it is hard to imagine that, for example, the back is heated, but the bottom is not, provided that it is not "Break", since only two wires are suitable for this common terminal, both on the back and on the bottom of the seat). If your resistance is very different (in everyday life - it is heated, only the side or central parts) or even a "break", then we begin to disassemble the seat.Note: An example is shown on an early w210 driver's electric seat.We will need: tester (for checking resistance with an accuracy of ohms), soldering iron, insulating material, knife, key for 17, Phillips screwdriver, E-torx E12, torx T30.
It is not necessary, but desirable to have: 2 disposable clamps for cable ties (you can, of course, tie them up with electrical tape, but not nicely), a “gun” for plastic (such a cool thing that melts plastic), torx T20.Note (correctly done by Alexey Antipov (Greka)): It is not necessary to take out the seat. Pros, when the seat remains in place 1. E12 is not needed 2. Remove the seat - extra time. The minus is not convenient in my opinion.It is necessary to remove the seat from the car, since it is simply not realistic to disassemble it on the spot. to do this, remove the cover (I gently insert my fingers into the belt slot and remove the cover)Be very careful - checkers break easily. I circled two in the photo, marked two more with arrows.that's how I could have increased the rate.unscrew the strap with a 17 keyuse a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the screw and remove the cover by moving it slightly to the door and forward (for mechanical seats, you will need to remove the adjustment knobs, which is more convenient to do already on the workbench and, accordingly, you can also unscrew the screw on the workbench)we remove the two front pads on the runners, moving by the central part, they are removed a cm forward and to the side. if you have never been removed from the car - it is very difficult to removeunscrew the two rear bolts with the E-torx E12then the front two. then we freely “fill up” the seat, ie. we lean the front seat back against the back, which allows us to freely separate the wiring and the piston that secures the wiring to the seat. (Note! to be honest, I don’t remember for the seats with pumping - the pumping tube will "put" the seat or not, I will find out soon this question)After the seat is released, carefully remove the seat with the help of an assistant. I take out through the back door. It's more convenient for me, I have not tried it through the front. ATTENTION ! Do not damage the seat trims and door span paintwork.Already at the workbench, use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the cover on the other side of the seatunscrew the "terminal block" only in order to free the wiring. We use T20. (Although in this case it was screwed under a Phillips screwdriver, but it should be T20)we remove the clamps from the wiring (in 99% we have to bite off, in this figure they have already been removed, but were somewhere where it was marked)Unscrew the front support on both sides using T30starting with an asterisk, as if pulling the skin down, we take out the seat upholstery itself from the groove (along the perimeter) (thick cardboard is sewn along the edge and inserted with a turn of 180 degrees into the groove)

From the back of the upholstery, the same thing is only there is already a rag (in the photo there is just the process of removing the cardboard from the groove, for often it is convenient to do it with a screwdriver, thrusting it along the groove, as if flat, so as not to damage the upholstery)the same thing, but already removed from the groove (in the rear part, in the front exactly in the middle there are iron clips, so do not be surprised that the middle will be removed tighter, but you can wear them equally)when the “skin” is free around the perimeter - remove the entire pillow from the metal framewe begin to turn the edges of the upholsterythe fabric also needs to be removed (the fabric is usually "nailed" with staples, first we remove them)This is what you should get in the end. Pay attention to the white caps, there are only 8 of them. They hold and shape the “skin” of the seat.turn the seat "skin" upwards, bending the sidewall, look for the caps. they hold the wire sewn into the upholstery with their hooks, holding the piston from the bottom, you can press on the iron bar and remove it from the hook.after the sidewalls are “unfastened” (3 on each side), you need to unfasten the “transverse” - here I managed to take a better picture, but it is also almost impossible to see this piston in the photoHere is the removed cap. Where the arrow points is a metal rod, which we took out, the second hook holds the piston itself in the “body” of the seat.So we got directly to the heating. (in the photo, the felt pads are removed from the central part of the seat). As you can see, the heating is divided into 4 fundamentally different parts. One under the knees (front), the second central part + 2 lateral. They are connected in pairs, i.e. lateral in series with each other and the central part with the front in series, but in parallel with each other, i.e. the central part may work for you from the front, and the side ones may not work, or vice versa. All parts are sewn to the "leather", in fact, they are offered to be replaced with a pillow assembly, but for 202 bodies all parts except the front are sold separately from the upholstery. Now it's up to the small thing, to understand where the cliff is or soon it will be.We start ringing all the parts separately (the front part is ringing by disconnecting the connector indicated by the arrow, and the central one simply by short-circuiting the connector pins)The front part of the seat suffers at the place of the “entrance” of the wires, so if we have a break in this part, we can safely open this place and by 99.9% you will find a break in cm from the place where the thick wire passes into the thin one (usually these places are very heated and this can be seen on the foam rubber as in the picture, already black). Most likely, the second wire also requires surgical intervention.We clean and solder the wires. call again. if the break is not eliminated, then we look further. logically, it is better to immediately break it in half and see in which half the cliff. and so on until the break is found. but in the front part, as a rule, breaking off two - just under the heel of the entrance of the wires. (a break and one will soon be the second, so it is better to immediately make the second wire)We isolate and use a pistol on the plastic to glue the patch in place. It turns out nicely and neatly.then we measure the resistance in pairs for each of the parts and look for why it differs. those. breakage or breakage. for often they can be seen with an unarmed eye, as in the photo, only in the photo is an already neglected case i.e. a very long piece of wire was overheating, but still the break point is visible immediately.We carefully cut this place, clean it, solder it and isolate it.We carefully hide the insulation in the cut and fill it with plastic on top and spread it to get a sufficiently thin layer, but at the same time, so that it does not give the opportunity to walk and hang out at the place of the adhesion.On this instance, there were no more breaks and “heating” (on some it reached 7!), So we assemble everything carefully in reverse order, if somewhere we “layered” to get to the heating wire, then we glue everything back with liquid plastic.The procedure takes about 4-6 hours.Thanks are expressed Ivan for submitting his vehicle for this report.Welding thresholds Mercedes E240 / W210, homemade body repair

Mercedes-Benz W210 partial sill replacement Part 3

Mercedes-Benz W210 sill replacement part 2

Repair of thresholds Mercedes 210

Replacement of thresholds, underbody Mercedes w210

Mercedes-Benz w210 remove rust

Mercedes-Benz W210 trying on Chinese front fenders Part 1

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Do-it-yourself Mercedes w210 thresholds repair

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