Do-it-yourself dishwasher repair

In detail: do-it-yourself dishwasher repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The dishwasher is simple, a number of maintenance actions have been developed that can be performed independently by the owner of the purchase. Filter cleaning, adjustment. We hope the tips below will help you do your DIY dishwasher repairs.

A number of standard operating modes are laid down, each model is equipped with a couple of specific ones. But the tentative algorithm is similar. The dishwasher draws water from the mains supply. The fence goes through a brine overflow softener. The brine compartment is usually located in the floor of the dishwasher, covered with a lid.

The flow enters under its own pressure, bypassing the inlet filter, and is regulated by a float valve or pressure switch. The required amount of water has filled the dishwasher - the inlet is closed and heating starts.

The required temperature is different depending on the technological stage of the cycle. For the last rinse, the value is traditionally higher. Designed to facilitate the drying process of dishes.

The heated water is pumped by the main pump (called the pump unit) into the working chamber. It gets there through sprinklers equipped with sprinklers. A thoughtful choice of the direction of the beating jets creates a reactive force that rotates the impeller. The dishwasher has two spray arms, one upper and one lower. The design is devoid of fundamental differences.

The waste water goes through two stages of cleaning, bypassing filters, then it is used for washing again. In the process described, a little powder is introduced into the chamber through the door of the detergent drawer. The exact amount is set by the program. The dishwasher uses water several times, cleansing the stream with two filters, at the end of the technological stage, sends it to the drain with a special drain pump.

Video (click to play).

At the end of the cycle, drying is carried out. There are several types of procedure, mainly:

condensation drying;
turbo drying.

In the first case, the dishes dry due to the heating obtained by the last rinse, the steam condenses on the cold walls, flows down. The process is catalyzed by special substances contained in the rinse aid, which reduce the surface tension of the water. In dishwashers equipped with a turbo dryer, hot, humid air is forced out by a fan, speeding up the process.

It was mentioned above how washing powder, gel, tablets get into the compartment. The rinse aid is poured into a separate container, in some cases it may not participate at all in the process. The loop looks like this:

preliminary wash;
main sink;
rinsing;
drying.

It remains to mention that for washing, the dishes are laid out in special baskets, they lie motionless during the cycle. Water jets are poured from all directions due to the rotation of the sprinkler impellers. Below are a kind of guide to repairing dishwashers, practical tips for tracking the correct operation of the equipment.

It is recommended to entrust the repair of industrial dishwashers to professionals, what to do if the home model is stubborn, we will consider a little below. We see a number of typical signs manifested in the unsatisfactory appearance of the dishes after washing, which are not considered manifestations of breakdown:

Each owner has seen enough of a kitchen assistant, so they know how the equipment should work. Below are typical situations that signal minor malfunctions, simply calling for a do-it-yourself dishwasher repair.

The dishwasher seems to be working, water does not flow inside. It is worth starting with the previous point, having examined the hose, filter. The reason may be more prosaic, unpleasant: the inlet valve has broken. The accessory is relatively easy to change, you have to buy a new one. The part follows the intake filter. You will need to disassemble the case.
Defective pressure switch. Disconnect the element from the wire terminals, slightly blow the branch pipe to which the plastic tube fits. A slight clicking sound is heard when the device operates satisfactorily.
The machine stopped in the middle of a cycle, the case, in addition to the fuses and the presence of power, concerns a faulty working pump. Check the recirculation water filters first. The dishwasher will behave in a similar manner when slaughtered. The water intake path (see above), the heating element, the thermal relay are faulty.

The slow filling of the dishwasher with water is caused, in addition to the bottom of the inlet tract, by the insufficient pressure of the water supply system.
The water stopped heating. In addition to the obvious reasons - the breakdown of the thermostat, the heating element - the matter is in the pressure switch. Wrongly detects the water level, gives false commands to the dishwasher.
The door stopped closing. Check the balancing spring. In 90% of cases, the cause is found.

Whether it is the repair of built-in dishwashers, the repair of Kandy dishwashers, the process follows one technological route. It is important to understand: external differences in household appliances do not mean differences in internal ones.

Indesit dishwashers are assembled in Poland under the control of the head office located in Italy. This technique attracts users with its low price and relatively good quality, of course, they are far from "boshes", but nevertheless it is in demand among consumers. One of the main disadvantages of these dishwashers, sensitivity to power surges, leads to the fact that the machine breaks down. How to repair Indesit dishwashers will be discussed further.

Anything can break down in the Indesit dishwasher, especially if it is used for a very long time or the operating rules are violated. For example, a circulation pump, a temperature sensor, a water level sensor, a filler valve may fail, rocker arms and cleaning filters are clogged with plaque. But most often, according to the masters, the following parts break in Indesit dishwashers:

a heating element, as a result of which the quality of washing dishes decreases, since the water does not heat up;
dishwasher tank, which leads to water leakage and the appearance of extraneous noise. Replacing a tank is a difficult category of repair; such a service costs about 1,200 rubles plus the cost of a new tank. In general, this is not as expensive as it seems at first glance, because you will have to sort out and disassemble the entire dishwasher body, which is not so easy for an untrained person to do, therefore, for your own peace of mind, it is better to contact a master who will probably fix the dishwasher;
the electronic control board is the "brain" of the dishwasher, which is responsible for the work of all its internal "organs".

The heating element can burn out for various reasons: due to scale formation, power surges, wear. This breakdown is of average complexity, its elimination will cost around 1200 rubles, not counting the cost of the heating element itself. However, it is quite possible to replace it yourself, but first you need to purchase an original spare part.

For your information! If the machine stops heating water, then the AL10 error code should appear on dishwashers with a display.

So, the replacement of the heating element is carried out as follows:

disconnect the machine from the power supply and water supply;
put on the back wall, first, having laid something under it;
unscrew the screws holding the bottom cover of the case and remove it, in some models it may be necessary to remove the side panels;
under the cover you can see all the main parts of the machine, as for the ten, it goes with the pump in the Indesit dishwashers;
taking a multimeter in hand, check the heating element;
then we remove the disposable clamps from the heating element and disconnect it;
you also need to remove the hose coming from the pump to a container with water, this is necessary in order to pull out the entire pump with a heating element;
now it is necessary to disconnect the ground wire from the pump;
we take out the pump with the attached heater from the car;
then unscrew the heating element from the engine counterclockwise;

Important! The edges of the heating element are very sharp, so take a rag and cover the heating element, only then unscrew it from the pump body.

now you need to remove the old O-ring from the pump;

then you need to lubricate the new sealing gum and the walls of the heating element with grease;

Image - Do-it-yourself dishwasher repair

we put on an elastic band and connect the pump and the heating element, you will have to make an effort;

now you need to change the old clamps for new ones and install the pump with the heating element in the car, connecting the hose and wires;

before assembling the dishwasher body, you need to run a test wash to check the tightness of the connections.

The control module is responsible for the operation of all parts of the dishwasher, receiving signals from various sensors and giving commands. This is a complex device that can cost 3000-6000 rubles for different models of dishwashers and even more. Whether such a repair is advisable is up to you. Replacing a module belongs to the average category of complexity, so it is likely that you can change it yourself.

Disconnect the dishwasher from the power supply.
Loosen the six screws holding the front facade panel.
Then remove the 6 screws that hold the control panel.
Gently pull out the control panel and hang it on the door, be careful not to scratch the dishwasher.
Disconnect the black wire.
Unscrew the control module from the control panel.
Disconnect all wires from the module by releasing the latches.
Connect the electrical wires to the new module and reinsert.
Collect the car.

So, the repair of the Indesit brand dishwasher can be done independently, if you have the desire, skills and time. Detailed instructions and videos will help you get the job done. Happy renovation!

Indesit dishwashers are affordable household appliances. The price of dishwashers of this brand is significantly lower than that of other brands. Therefore, they are in demand among consumers.Malfunctions may appear in a year or two after purchasing an Indesit dishwasher. The electronics are very sensitive to voltage surges, which leads to burnout of the contacts and control board. Let's analyze the main causes of breakdowns and options for their elimination.Indesit PMM error codes are collected and described in detail in a separate article.It is impossible to predict the time of the breakdown, but it is necessary to find out the reason. After years of operation in the dishwasher, any of the units can "pass". How to identify the problem? See recommendations:

Pay attention to breakage symptoms. Is the machine malfunctioning or won't it turn on? All this points to the cause of the malfunction.

Look at the display. Often the self-diagnostic system gives an error in the form of a code. Decoding the code will indicate a breakdown.

What malfunctions are typical for Indesit dishwashers:

Failure of the heating element leads to the fact that the quality of dishwashing decreases. The machine does not heat the water. It is necessary to check the heater, its wiring. The electronic module, the heating element control triacs are also examined.

Abnormal operating noises may indicate wear on the motor bearing. This happens when the oil seal becomes unusable, the grease is washed out and the bearing begins to creak. It is necessary to completely disassemble the pump and replace the bearings. Also, noise occurs when glass enters the pump impeller.

Typical malfunction - the machine does not collect water. The problem lies in the filling system. Everything needs to be checked, cleaned, replaced.

When the dishwasher leaks, the door seal may be the cause. It could be worn out or damaged, then a replacement is needed. Often the Indesit dishwasher tank itself is leaking. Here you will need knowledge on how to disassemble the equipment and replace the tank.

Why does the Indesit dishwasher beep when working? The problem could be in the control module. Diagnostics and replacement of the part will be required.

If the water drain does not work, the drain pump, filter and hose must be checked.

Let's move on to finding faulty parts and repairing them.You can repair your Indesit dishwasher yourself. To keep everything going well, follow our guidelines.The heater often suffers from limescale and power surges. Due to low-quality water with a high salt content, plaque settles on the heating element. Over time, the scale layer becomes larger, which leads to overheating and combustion of the heating element. In addition, more energy is spent on heating the water.Heater Replacement Instructions:

Unplug the dishwasher from the mains. Shut off the water supply.

Lay the car on its side.

Open the bottom cover. In the Indesit dishwasher, the heating element is connected to the pump.

Before removing the heater, check that it is working properly. Disconnect the heating element wiring, attach the multimeter probes to the contacts. If the part is defective, it must be replaced.

Unclench the heater clamps and disconnect it.

Disconnect the clamp and remove the hose from the pump to the container with water.

Disconnect the pump wiring.

Pull the pump and heater out of the case.

Disconnect the heating element by scrolling clockwise.

To install a new element, remove the seal from the pump and replace it. To make the heater easy to put on, lubricate the edges and seal with grease.The heating element is installed in the reverse order, the removed clamps are replaced with new ones.If the waste water is not flushed out after washing, check the drain system. How to do it:

Open the door of the machine, remove the trays and racks for dishes.

Pull out the filter at the bottom and the metal mesh (if present). Rinse the parts under running water.

If water accumulates in the place where the filter is installed, remove it with a sponge.

Push and pull the pump cover.

Inspect the impeller for blockages, clean.

To check if the pump is working, climb up to it through the bottom of the machine.Disconnect the pump wiring and check the contacts with a multimeter. Replace if damaged. To remove the pump from the circulation pump, turn it clockwise.A leak in the Indesit dishwasher is caused by a worn seal on the door. It is easy to replace it with your own hands:

open the hopper door;

disconnect the seal around the perimeter of the machine;

take a new gasket, insert it in place of the old one, distributing it around the perimeter;

remove excess sealant with a knife.

Carry out test work to check the seal in action.To replace the lower door seal, proceed as follows:

open the hopper door;

unscrew the screws around the perimeter of the inner panel of the door;

lift the door up, pull the outer door panel down and remove;

open the door again and remove the basket from the hopper;

below you will see part of the seal;

pull out the seal by pulling on the edges with tweezers;

on a new product, you will see a mark on the right side - this means that the right side of the seal should be installed on the right inside;

fill in the seal and assemble the door.

The control module is a complex and expensive part. Each triac on the module is responsible for the operation of certain parts of the dishwasher. It is better to entrust the repair of the module to the master.But if you want to inspect it and find the problem, here's a guide:

remove the front door panel as described above;

unscrew the bolts that hold the control panel;

put the panel on top of the case;

to disconnect the module, disconnect the black wire;

unscrew the screws holding the module on the panel;

disconnect the wiring; before repairing, it is better to take a photo of the location of the connectors.

You can inspect the part. The installation of a new module is carried out in the reverse order.A long intake of water in the car indicates a blockage in the system. How to troubleshoot:

Turn off the water supply.

Unscrew the inlet hose from the PMM body.

Disconnect the other end of the hose from the communications.

Inspect it and rinse it under running water.

Pull out the strainer. It is installed upstream of the intake valve.

Clear it from the blockage.

The intake valve is also checked.If there is no blockage, ring the electronic parts with a multimeter. In the event of a breakdown, the valve must be completely replaced.A clogged dispenser tray is a common cause of poor dishwashing performance. If you do not clean the compartments of detergent and powder, deposits will become stony on the walls. It is difficult to remove it later, so after each wash, wipe the tray with a rag.Also check the rocker nozzles for blockages:

remove the upper blade by unscrewing the fastener;

pull the bottom towards you;

clean the small holes with a toothpick, rinse under running water.

Now you can start the Indesit dishwasher and check the health of all elements.Monitor the condition of your equipment, do not neglect the first symptoms of breakdown. It is much easier to fix the problem right away than to carry out a full repair later.The popularity of the tyralny machines Indesit received due to the low cost. But for the initial cheapness you have to pay extra with repairs - the reliability of the brand is in question.But you can repair the Indesit washing machine with your own hands and eliminate many breakdowns if you have basic knowledge of mechanics, electrical and electronics.First of all, you need to determine what kind of breakdown occurred. Initial diagnostics will help you decide if it is possible to fix the problem yourself or if you still have to spend money on professional repairs.The right step would be to have a preliminary acquaintance with the scheme of the washing machine in order to have an idea of where everything is.Sometimes, to determine the cause of the failure of household appliances, it is enough to read the instructions for use, which, among other things, contains recommendations for eliminating breakdowns.The first step is to take a look at the display. If it is impossible to complete the specified process, the washing machine issues special codes on the display.Error codes in the operation of the washer are given in the instructions that the manufacturer must attach to his own product:With the help of a very useful multimeter device, it is possible to check various contacts, wiring, sensors. The device will show if there is power everywhere.Sometimes it is enough to listen to the sound emitted by the unit. When the washing machine starts to creak, make excessive noise, and sometimes rattle, then, most likely, there are problems in the bearings or the drum, the oil seal is damaged, the counterweight fasteners are loose, the shock absorbers are in poor condition.Calling the wizard is the only correct solution when:

the warranty period has not expired - if the operating rules are followed, the repair will be free;

threatening smoke came from the car.

In other cases, there are said to be options. But always the first stage of repair begins with disconnecting the faulty equipment from the mains. For negligence, electricity will punish necessarily and severely. An indispensable rule of a home master: do not act at random, use the instructions.When the display does not report a malfunction, there are no leaks, smoke, burning smell, then usually the problem is easy to fix:

If home laundry won't turn on, first you need to check if the plug is firmly inserted into the outlet. Occasionally, the washing machine can shut down due to power surges. It is also necessary to make sure that the operating mode is set correctly on the control panel;

When water does not flow into the tank, it is recommended to press the button responsible for starting and stopping the unit again, make sure that the door is closed tightly. Sometimes the fault is insufficient pressure in the water supply system, perhaps the tap was simply turned off, the hose was damaged. The reason may lie in the failure of both the program and the control system. Elimination occurs by repeated access to the "Start / Pause" button;

When the drain is not working first you need to check the filter - sometimes it is enough just to clean it.

And the source of the frightening rumble can be any object (for example, a coin) that accidentally ends up in the drum.This is a fairly frequent breakdown, although the declared service life of the heating element is 10-15 years. However, numerous washes in very hot and hard water, constant overloading of the tank, and low-grade detergents do an evil deed.Over time, a kind of "coat" of various salts is formed on the heating element. It breaks down from overheating, it is no longer possible to restore it. A heater malfunction is indicated by a cold hatch when the wash mode is on and, of course, laundry that has not been washed in cold water.Replacing a damaged part is quite simple: the manufacturers have placed the heating element in such a way that it is easy to get to it by opening the back cover of the case. The only inconvenience is that the car needs to be disconnected from all communications in order to turn the right side for repair. The heating element is placed under the drum pulley. Care should be taken when disconnecting and replacing the wiring board.A minimum of tools will be required: a flat and curly screwdriver, a key with a head are enough. You will also need a multimeter or tester to check the heating element. It is wiser to buy a new heater, the original Italian one.

Disconnect the unit from all communications.

Unscrew the bolts around the perimeter of the cover.

Further, under the tank, you need to find the contacts of the heating element and attach the multimeter probes to them. Normal resistance is 25-35 Ohm, other indicators indicate a malfunction.

The next operation: disconnecting all wires with terminals, fixing their position in memory.

Then the nut is unscrewed on the bolt, the end of which is located in the center of the heater base.

In order for the bolt to go into the hole, it should be gently knocked over it.

Pull out the heating element base by picking it up with a flat screwdriver.

Move the thermal sensor from the damaged part to the new heating element.

Clean out the formed debris from the seat for the electric heater.

Leave the new heating element in its intended place, fasten it with a bolt.

Then it remains to return the wires to their original position, close the rear cover of the machine and restore the connection with communications.This is also a fairly common problem. The pump is a weak point of automatic washing machines. In addition to a blockage, when it is enough to clean the hose and filter, the impeller can jam. It is located behind the drain filter, which must be unscrewed and removed.To prevent the impeller, you need to try to rotate. It should not be too light: in the normal state, the impeller rotates with certain delays due to the magnet in the coil. Sometimes threads, hair, laces and other similar debris wrap around the impeller so that they even block it. All these interferences must be removed.It happens that the plastic body is deformed and begins to clamp the blades. When there is no possibility of replacement, the blades must be cut with a knife by no more than 2 mm, and the washing machine can still be used.If after that the work is not restored, then the breakdown is more significant and requires a detailed inspection - the pump will have to be disassembled. The machine is laid on its side, the screws that fix the pump to the body are unscrewed, the electric cable and 2 hoses are disconnected.Clean the hoses if necessary. The tester checks the motor windings to eliminate the possibility of breakage.Typical resistance values here are 150-300 ohms.Without hoping for memory, it is worth noting the orientation of the pump relative to the engine I. Then the pump motor is disconnected from the housing, the rotor is removed from the stator. Often everything inside is clogged with dirt that interferes with the rotation of the rotor. In such cases, a thorough rinsing is required.The rotor axis bearing is lubricated with lithium, the oil seal is adjusted. Subsequent assembly is carried out using a sealant to prevent leaks.If you follow the instructions for caring for your washing machine and clean the drain hose every 6 months, the likelihood of breakage of the drain system will be greatly reduced.Indesit's motor is well-designed, reliable and durable. However, nothing is eternal, and at one not very beautiful moment, the "heart of the machine" may fail. The reason can be not only wear of the mechanism, but also excessive overload.

First, the outer panels are removed from the machine, usually the top and rear.

O Disconnect the supply wires.

Remove the belt from the pulley.

Screw the fasteners, remove the motor.

After diagnostics, the final decision is made to repair or replace the engine. Usually they tend to the latter option - it is difficult to restore the engine, it is easier to completely replace it. The installation of a new engine is carried out in the reverse order.Before disassembly, the assembly should be photographed, then there will be no problems with what to screw in.When in a working washing machine, especially during spinning, unusual sounds appear, and not episodic, but gradually increasing, this is a clear signal of a malfunction of the bearings, which indicates the ease of rotation of the drum.Do-it-yourself repair in such a situation is possible, but you cannot call it simple - you need extreme care, strict adherence to the sequence of operations:

Remove the top and rear panels.

Remove dispenser, control unit.

Twist the cuff clamp, remove the cuff itself and the hatch locking device.

Remove the front wall and counterweight.

Remove the tubular electric heater, noting the sequence of connecting the wires in memory.

Disconnect the parts connected to the drum tank, dismantle the drive belt and motor.

Remove the tank, place it on a flat place with the pulley up, then unscrew the pulley bolt, remove the pulley itself.

Using a mallet (you can use a simple hammer and a wooden gasket) to sink the shaft down, untwist and divide the tank into two halves.

Remove the bearing with a special puller, dismantle the old oil seals.

After installing fresh oil seals, press in a new bearing.

The assembly of the washing machine is carried out in reverse order with strict sequence of operations. To prevent the tank from leaking, all seams must be sealed.The main thing when replacing a bearing is care and adherence to the sequence of operations.A flabby hatch lock can cause another nuisance - the washing machine will stop turning on. The shut-off device is also equipped with contacts, and when something prevents complete closure, electricity does not flow to the units of the unit.Failure is usually caused by the accumulated dirt in the lock. After its elimination, the normal operation of the device, as a rule, is restored.And the mortiser s dampens excessive vibrations that appear in the washing machine. This is especially necessary during spinning, when the rotating drum is at the highest speed. Over time, they diminish in effectiveness.As a result - excessive vibration, atypical noises, knocking during the spin cycle. A common cause of failure is the wear of the gaskets and separating the piston and cylinder, which subsequently deform.The shock absorber cylinder contains a rod, consisting of a rod and a gasket treated with a high-friction lubricant. Oscillations are damped by moving the piston.The jerky jerk of the tank forces the piston into the cylinder, reducing vibration.There is also a spring in the cylinder that returns the piston to its original position - it is called the return one.To get to the shock absorbers, you will have to remove the rear panel (in some modifications, the side or front cover can be removed). After unscrewing the nut at the bottom of the shock absorber, it is disconnected from the body. In the same way, the part is released from above. A new shock absorber is installed in place of the old one and fixed in the reverse order.In the latest models, instead of shock absorbers, dampers are used, where the return spring has been replaced by a whole spring system attached to the upper area of the tank and providing it with a "suspended" position. This design is more reliable, better dampens unwanted shocks.To check the performance, the damper must be removed from the case by unscrewing the bolt in its lower segment, and try to press on it so as to compress and then unclench the mechanism. If the result is minimal, the device is in normal working condition. When the piston easily changes position, the damper needs to be replaced.It is removed from the case in the same way as conventional shock absorbers, although in some models the mounting bolts are replaced with plastic pins with latches. Install the new damper in the usual way - in reverse order with respect to the assembly.It happens that the detergent does not want to leave the tray. This usually happens when he is poured there without measure. The problem disappears with the correct dosage.Weak water pressure can also be to blame. It is worth trying to clean the filter where the washing machine connects to the inlet hose.Another option is to increase the pressure at the tap supplying water. Sometimes water cannot enter the tray due to a blocked valve. Then you should pull out the tray, find the valve in the form of a key and carefully clean it.These are the most common causes of improper detergent powder behavior and can be easily dealt with without the help of a professional. A more difficult case would be a problem with the water inlet valve where the powder does not leave the tray at all. Valve replacement is already required. The same can be said about the solenoid valve, which is responsible for filling the cuvette with water with water.The control unit in Indesit washing machines does not have reliable protection against moisture, as a result, condensate gets on the contacts, short circuits occur, which take the device out of the working state.Repair requires subtle diagnostics in the "Autotest" mode, serious knowledge in radio engineering, masterly possession of a soldering iron, skills in handling microcircuits, boards, semiconductors. This is usually the area of expertise of skilled professionals.For the rare daredevils from the army of home crafts, the most general tips:

remove the cover from the control unit;

remove the module;

inspect faulty contacts and connections;

evaporate damaged parts;

solder conditioning elements in their place.

But work with electronics is far from being for everyone, so we recommend that you abandon experiments and turn to professionals.You can get acquainted with the practical application of tips for repair and replacement of spare parts by watching informative videos.Quick replacement of heating elements in the Indesit washing machine:

Consists of housing, permanent magnet fan impeller and printed circuit board with reed switch. The water sets the fan impeller in motion. A magnet attached to the fan impeller drives the reed switch 2 times to the position (North / South / North). The generated pulses are counted by the electronics of the control module.

Water, being drawn into the machine through a special tube, squeezes out the air in the pressure valve (manometer).

Two mikrika - one aquastop, the second water level sensor. Water is collected, the second sensor is triggered, water continues to accumulate, it raises the red float 3, which turns on the micric 1.

The pump drives the water in a circle, the heater heats it up. The pill compartment opens. The dishes are washed. The temperature sensor checks the water temperature - according to the selected program.

1 - water softening system.
2 - foam float of the aquastop system
3 - drain (sewer) pump
4 - circulation pump
5 - "brains" it is the control board in the casing
6 - valve for supplying water to the machine.

Protection device (emergency sensor):

At the end of the washing, the drain valve opens - the water is drained using the drain pump. A new one is poured, heated and washed. Merging - similar to the first stage.

In the event of a leak, the machine is designed so that water always enters the sump. There is a leakage sensor - a foam float with contacts. If it surfaced, the machine goes into emergency mode. Opens the drain valve and turns on the drain pump.

This is a hardware program - we stand, hum, until it dries up. It can hum for two days, or until the pump dies from overheating.

Dismantling the dishwasher:

This article describes an example lg schema for informational purposes only. The principle of action is similar in indesit bosch electrolux and aristons. Be careful not to get water on electronic components.

Before getting started:

1.Unplug the cable from the electrical outlet to avoid electric shock.
2. Turn off the water tap.
3. Remove all dishes.
4. Remove the bottom shelf and the top shelf.
5.Disconnect the inlet hose and drain hose.
6.Requires a rag to collect any residual water.

1.To remove the bottom cover, it is usually enough to unscrew two screws.

2. Front panel - unscrew several screws from the back of the door.

3.4 Control panel assembly:

- Remove the screws.
- Remove the connecting wires.
- Memorize or take a photo of the order of connecting the connectors, so as not to confuse the connectors during assembly.
- Remove the lock assembly, display
- Remove the 8 screws securing the control module.

5.Ventilation and drying system assembly

- Open the door.
- Unscrew from the door bracket.
- Disconnect the connectors and wires.
- Remove the air duct.
- Turn the inner cover counterclockwise.
- Remove the detergent drawer.

6. Door springs (right and left)

- Pull the spring upwards and remove it from the bracket hinge.
Be careful not to injure yourself on the sharp edges of the tank!
- Remove the spring from the hinge.
- Lift the door and remove it from its hinges.

7.8 Turn over and remove the bottom housing cover.

9.10.Unscrew the screws and remove the base and the water intake valve.

11.12.Remove the pallet holder and push the pallet downward with the hooks aside. Be careful not to drop the pallet assembly.
- Loosen the heating element nut and pull it out of the pallet.
- Unscrew the fastening screws and remove the drain pump.