DIY ceiling repair after tiles

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the ceiling after tiles from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

How does the renovation of any room begin? Of course, with the repair of the ceiling. How to repair the ceiling in an apartment with your own hands will be discussed in this article.

The ceiling needs to be repaired every 10 years, since during this time more than one layer of water-based paint or lime accumulates on it. Over time, it begins to fall off, and small cracks appear. Also, repairs may be required if you find that the joints of the ceiling tiles are uneven or the seams are too visible.

Many people mistakenly believe that it is easier to make the ceiling hinged, then repair work will not be needed. In fact, it is better to continue whitening it or wallpapering it, so it will breathe, dust will not accumulate on it, and this finishing method is much cheaper than any other.
Any renovation begins with the need to remove everything from the premises. Ceiling renovations are no exception.

Next, you need to remove the previous coatings. This can be: lime, paint, wallpaper, and so on. This work is simple, but laborious and requires additional means of protection.

You can remove previous coatings in different ways, depending on their composition.

The paint is washed off with special means, lime - with water, wallpaper - first torn off, then soaked with water.
Foam tiles from the ceiling can be easily removed with a metal trowel. In order for the ceiling to be repaired well, it must be cleaned to the ground.

It is important to understand that there are cheap paints and high quality expensive ones.

To remove cheap water-based paint, just soak it with water.

Video (click to play).

Algorithm of actions:

Wet the paint 1 time with hot water at a temperature of 60-80 degrees. To do this, you can use a regular paint roller with a long bristle, a paintbrush or a brush;
Wait 10-15 minutes;
Re-wet the paint with hot water of the same temperature;
Using a steel trowel, remove the soggy layer of water-based paint.

In the process of performing such work, small scratches may appear on the ceiling, therefore, after removing the old paint, the ceiling will need to be putty.
To do this, use a ready-made, fine putty, which is usually sold in buckets. It is easy to apply to the ceiling in a small layer and to sand.
Also carefully inspect the condition of all seams. Cover them with plaster if necessary. More on this below.

1.painting roller;
2.maklovitsa brush

It is important to know that high-quality expensive water-based paints are not afraid of water. Therefore, such paint can be removed only with sandpaper and it will be difficult to do this. She skins very badly.

In such a situation, it is recommended to apply a good primer, and in a day a new coat of paint. Of course, this option can be considered in the case of cosmetic repairs, when there is no serious damage to the ceiling.

It is always recommended to use a coat of primer after cleaning the ceiling.

Any type of use is allowed in the apartments. The main function of the primer is to create a reinforcing protective layer through deep penetration into the treated surface. This saves any subsequent material applied over it.
Most primers are versatile and suitable for both adhesive and limestone materials. When buying, you can always consult the seller.

How cleaning and priming the ceiling looks like in practice, see the video:

Further, repair work is built on the basis of what you need.If you plan to level the ceiling, then do it with a plaster mixture or plaster. But before leveling, be sure to prime the ceiling, as mentioned earlier. This will provide better grip.
To level the ceiling, you will need a bag of plaster and putty.
Material consumption depends on the area of your ceiling. Arriving at the store, choose the appropriate amount of packaging. If in doubt, check with the sellers how much plaster and putty you need for your area.

Take your choice of tools seriously. It is not worth saving, but it is better to purchase high-quality spatulas and trowels, because the final result of your work will depend on this.

1.trowel;
2. spatula;
3.Plastering trowel 350 mm

Dilute the dry plaster mixture with water according to the instructions on the package and mix well. For a more thorough mixing, you can use a slow-speed drill with a mixer attachment.

After applying each layer, the surface is left to dry for a day.
This completes the rough alignment of the ceiling and you can start working with the putty. It will help smooth out all small irregularities.The putty is used for finishing the ceiling. It is used after rough leveling of large cracks, irregularities, depressions and surface drops with plaster. The same rule works here as with plaster - after applying each layer, a day must pass before applying the next one.After the filler has dried, the ceiling can be sanded to a perfect shine.Types of putty according to the degree of readiness:

There are dry putties. They are sold packaged in bags. They must first be diluted with water and mixed;

Ready-made putties, which are usually sold in buckets. As mentioned earlier, we recommend using ready-made putties, because they are easy to use.

It is advisable to use a polymer putty for painting. She has the longest "life time", i.e. after application, it can be stretched for a longer time, which means that it is possible to work out and level the entire surface thoroughly before the composition begins to dry. It also has a very fine grind, which will have a positive effect on finishing surface cleaning.The putty is chosen relative to the base on which it will be applied. Consultants of hardware stores will also help you in the selection.

Sano posted a blog post in Slab Furniture, Oct 6, blog post

The first attempts to make something out of the brought slabs. Although there may be attempts, the material costs money and the margin for error is as much as there is money in your pocket. Train at your own expense, as they say.

Therefore, each board is carefully examined and measured, the proverb about seven times measure in action.

The work itself is not tricky, creative, there are several boards and you need to pick them up so that it looks beautiful and there is no overrun. All adjustments to the size and trimming are done with the minimum possible removal of material, just sawed off a bit here, cut a little there with a chisel.

SB3 posted a blog post to Interesting by SB3, Oct 7, blog post

Greetings, I will continue what I started in the entry “Electrician. How things really are. ”.

The record will be gradually updated). "Pictures" will be

Nikolay911 posted a topic in Plumbing, plumbing, heating, sewerage, October 1, topic

Sano posted a blog entry in Slab Furniture, Wednesday at 9:16 pm, blog entry

Filling the slab with epoxy resin. First pouring resin onto the slab.

It is necessary to put the slabs on a flat base, for me it is a chipboard sheet, while the base sheet itself should lie strictly horizontally.

KGB has published an article in Tools and Equipment, October 3, article

Sano posted a blog entry in Slab Furniture, September 27th, blog post

So I lived to see my workshop, which needs to be equipped and supplemented with various instruments for a long time and persistently.

But the main thing is there is a warm room, although not your own, there is where to work until they are kicked out.

This warehouse is quite spacious, if you remove everything you don't need, so you have to do a lot to get to work at least somehow. And the first thing I did was take out too much and started assembling a large desktop.

Emerald posted a topic in Tools and Equipment, September 25, 2008, Topic

windsor posted a topic in Our works, August 8, 2017, topic

Today, expanded polystyrene, or plastic tiles for pasting the ceiling is perhaps the most common material. It is inexpensive, easy to stick, easy to maintain, and modern manufacturers offer such a wide range of tile designs that you can easily transform your room into something that your fantasy tells you with its help.

Everyone who decides to repair the ceiling with tiles wants to approach this work not only individually, but also responsibly. You will need to learn a few features of choosing the right tile, the rules of preparatory work and other interesting information.

First of all, let's look at what types of tiles there are in order to accurately choose the one that suits you best.

Expanded polystyrene tiles for the ceiling are of several varieties, and each differs both in appearance and in the method of production:

Pressed tiles are made by stamping from polystyrene blocks; the minimum thickness of the slab is 6 mm, the maximum is 8 mm;
Extruded blocks, which are produced from a strip of polystyrene by pressing, have a smooth glossy surface, imitate natural materials - marble, stone, wood;
Injection tiles are produced by sintering raw materials, have the correct shape, deep pattern; plate thickness from 9 to 14 mm.

In order to properly glue the tiles to the ceiling, pay special attention to the physical, and especially the geometric parameters of the product when buying.

For example, you have opted for a square tile. All corners of the element must be absolutely right, that is, equal to 90 degrees. Any deviation, even the slightest, in the process of work will lead to the formation of uneven seams, and this will entail additional material costs and an unaesthetic appearance of the ceiling. In no case is it allowed to round or hedge the corners of the tiles.

It is also very important to take into account the material from which the ceiling tile is made. Make sure that the edges of the polyprostyrene tiles do not crumble, and that the grains are the same size among themselves. Fine-grained tiles are considered to be of the highest quality.

A polystyrene foam plate, if it is of good quality, will not break under its own weight when you hold it around the corner. The pattern must be clear and uniform across the entire package. Any flaws, dents and deformations are strictly not allowed.

Have you ever wondered how important it is to choose the right adhesive for a particular job? Many people mistakenly believe that "glue is glue in Africa," and whatever you take it will still stick to glory. True, then you have to redo the repairs again, spending even more money and time on it.

It is not in vain that manufacturers of construction and repair materials have been distributing adhesives according to a narrow specialization for many years. It can be considered a marketing ploy that there are a huge variety of types of glue for the same ceiling tile on store shelves. But the fact is obvious: with glue for pressed tiles, you are unlikely to properly attach injection tiles to the ceiling. What features should be considered in order to choose the right option?

First, the adhesive should provide your ceiling covering for many years without having to rework individual elements from time to time.
Secondly, the glue must have high bonding properties in order to ensure ease of use. Working with a ceiling is much more difficult than working with a floor or even a wall, so it is important to attach each tile to the surface as quickly as possible.
Thirdly, it is very important to take into account the consumption of glue. The higher the level of adhesion of the substance, the less you will use it, significantly saving on materials.
Fourth, the glue should adhere equally well to the surface in both small and large layers. This is due to the fact that in many houses the floors are uneven, which creates differences between the slabs of about 2 cm. In such cases, more glue may be needed so that the tiles do not fall off. You can pre-align the ceiling, but this is a time consuming and expensive procedure.

First, you need to determine how many tiles are required for the entire ceiling area. The calculation is quite simple: you need the ceiling area and the exact size of each plate. The standard ceiling tile size is 50 X 50 cm.

It may turn out that the dimensions of the ceiling and the sides of the tiles are not multiples. This will lead to gaps at the edges. It is for this case that experts recommend buying 10-15% more tiles than with a preliminary calculation. This will also insure you against culling or pruning errors.

For your information: you can save a lot on glue if you choose a liquid rubber-based product - its consumption is much lower. In order for the fixation to be strong, let the glue applied to the tile dry a little.

Gluing the ceiling tiles with your own hands is an easy task, and therefore many do this work themselves. For beginners, our tips will definitely come in handy.

First of all, you need to mark the center of the area to be trimmed. Pull two strands in from the diagonal corners. The intersection of the threads will be the very center.
You can start working from the chandelier, taking its location as the center. You will need to cut the corners of the plates at the docking point at the wire. At the end of the work, you will close this gap with a curly glass attached to the chandelier rod.
The fastest and easiest way is gluing the tiles from the wall row by row. If you chose this option, then take into account one nuance: you need to lay the first row against the wall opposite the front door or window. Thus, the gaps closed by partial fragments will not be noticeable. Carefully cut the shims around the edges of the tiles before gluing them. Thus, you get a seamless ceiling tile with a perfectly flat surface.
Do not forget to observe the symmetry of the pattern at the joints of the elements. Any deviation can disrupt the entire finish.

There are several options for placing tiles on the ceiling in relation to the walls in the room.Most often, parallel and diagonal arrangement is used. The tiles can be monochromatic, colored and combined. For the combined option, there are the following location methods:

Snake;
Alternating diagonals;
Intersecting diagonals;
In the center of the ceiling;
Along the perimeter of the ceiling;
Staggered.

After all the work is completed, install the skirting boards around the perimeter of the ceiling. If you chose plastic skirting boards, use the same glue as for the tiles, if wooden - it would be more correct to fix them with nails or screws.

Seamless ceiling tiles are almost ideal if you want your ceiling to look noble. In fact, this is a tile made of expanded polystyrene familiar to us, but its edges are decorated in such a way that the joints are almost invisible. This material is very fond of interior designers, because it allows you to transform any room without much time.

Seamless ceiling tiles are made from expanded polystyrene by hot stamping. This method compresses the sheets to a thickness of about 5 mm.
The usual size of models of seamless ceiling tiles is 50 X 50 cm, while there are usually 8 such tiles in a package. This allows you to tiled a ceiling of 2 square meters without much effort and measurements.
Tiles can have both smooth and wavy contours. The form is designed in such a way that the joining is as easy as possible, and the transition of the pattern at the joints is perfectly observed.
The design performance of seamless tiles is very diverse: imitation of plaster moldings, natural texture of stone or wood, wood carvings.

The advantages of seamless ceiling tiles are obvious:

Low cost;
Refractoriness;
Moisture resistance;
Easy to maintain;
Possibility of painting in any color.

Plus, seamless tiles make it easy to hide the unevenness of the ceiling, and you don't have to level up.

Tip: When purchasing a seamless ceiling tile, immediately purchase a custom skirting board. It will be needed in order to hide the joints of the wall and ceiling, where the tile trim line is located.

You do not need any special skills to install seamless tiles - it practically does not differ from gluing simple tiles. But you will need to perform some preparatory operations. Their quality will determine how effective your ceiling will look afterwards.

First of all, thoroughly clean the surface of the ceiling from the previous finishing materials: remove the old wallpaper with a spatula, clean off the paint with a metal brush, wash off the whitewash to concrete.
Be sure to remove the chandelier from the ceiling or dismantle the lamps, insulate the wires from the lighting fixtures.
Apply a few coats of primer to the ceiling. Modern adhesives allow you to attach tiles directly to concrete, but the primer increases adhesion, so it will not be superfluous.

Please note: since seamless ceiling tiles hide small surface defects well, alignment with a putty is required only in the case of sagging more than 5 mm and large depressions.

After the preparatory measures are completed, proceed directly to gluing the tiles. This process has several features that are worth paying attention to:

It is advisable, having opened the packaging with tiles, leave it to lie in the room where you plan to mount it;
To make it easier for yourself, apply the markings on the ceiling as described in the third part of the article;
Be sure to remove any glue that comes out of the gaps immediately so that the tiles will not be damaged after it dries.

Tip: Use construction tape to hold the rows of glued tiles together. This will keep them from loosening while the glue dries and cures.

Yes, this option is also possible.We are often faced with such a need, and it is not always possible to get rid of the whitewash layer. In order to cope with this kind of work, there are two methods:

Apply a primer over the old layer of whitewash. This product will soak into the old coating and adhere to the main surface of the ceiling. Wait until the primer coat is completely dry and start finishing.
When using the second method, you will need to partially scrape off the layer of whitewash with a spatula in those places where it peeled off. When gluing tiles to such places, apply a thicker layer of glue from the wrong side, and press it against the ceiling for a few minutes. Thus, the glue will saturate the whitewash layer and set to overlap.

It is undesirable to glue the tiles on the ceiling whitewashed in several layers. Such a layer, weighted with glue, will surely collapse over time. Ceilings treated with frozen lime are also not suitable for tiling. The fact is that such a solution will crumble like dust, and the glue will not have a setting zone.

Be sure to clean the ceiling before work: sweep it from debris and cobwebs and wipe it with a wet rag.

In what situations do we face the question: how to remove the tiles?

In case she lost her attractiveness; tired of the color scheme, and there is no desire to enter and be in a certain room; because the situation presses and causes discomfort; or the tile was damaged in some places by careless actions when cleaning, rearranging furniture. The topic is quite relevant, and we will discuss it in detail, based on the video in this article.

If you remember how the so-called "renovation" began, then it was a sticker of a ceiling tile. Photos were brought to work; advice was given by craftsmen who have already made a similar facing with their own hands; the price was discussed, and which one is better to take.

Beautiful tile designs and no less intriguing names: Venice, Louvre. Employees advised each other on the possible ways of sticking: straight or diagonally.

Time passed, and the glued tiles became an example of a sarcastic attitude towards European-quality renovation, especially when an apartment is being sold and the buyer asks a question about renovation: “You have a European-style renovation - and what kind of ceiling, tiles? So what kind of renovation is this? It's just a cosmetic renovation. "

Today, tiles are generally associated with budget repairs. There are simply gorgeous options that are difficult to distinguish from stucco molding. But that's not the point.

It is always possible that one or more tiles need to be replaced. Only now there are usually no spare ones, and you cannot find them in the store. There remains one thing - to remove everything and make a new coating.

Any repair starts from the ceiling, and if it is decided to change the coating, the old tiles will have to be dismantled. What instead of her? Will it be plasterboard or stretch ceilings, or maybe liquid wallpaper? The decision remains with consumers and their preferences.

Regardless of which decision is made, the starting point is to completely clean the old finish. Let's consider in detail how to remove the tiles. Maybe this instruction will come in handy in the future if you need to change the surface. There will be a reason to look at our site again.

Metal spatula with a blade width of 20 cm;
Building mix or primer;
Capacious garbage bags of at least 90 liters, more is possible;
Capacity with water;
A stepladder, not some kind of bedside table with books;
Cellophane, to shelter furniture from dust;
Respiratory protection respirator;
Headwear and clothing.

Ceiling tiles are a very fragile material.Almost all tiles have these properties, but foam elements that do not have a laminated coating break especially well.

Are you tired of the ceiling and don't want to pay attention to it anymore due to the loss of attractiveness? Remove old tiles without regret, because so many new ones have appeared on the construction market!

Visit a hairdresser, for example - look at the finish. There is also a multi-level ceiling with a glossy finish and stylish fixtures. A small room, and you can't take your eyes off while the master casts over your head.

Removing items is not a long process, but very dusty and dirty. The room where the work will take place must be tightly closed.

Dust has a disgusting property - to clog even the smallest cracks, and scatter over all open surfaces. You don’t want to wash the apartment later and tidy up the furniture, cover it with cellophane or empty the room completely.

The roller clearly shows how easily the tile is picked up with a spatula and is removed with a bang from the ceiling, but the glue remains. Do not pay attention to it yet, and leave the work for later. Removing it will require some effort, because it will have to be scraped together with the plaster or its thin layer.

You can quickly and effectively remove glue from the ceiling with a grinder, grinder or drill with special attachments. The method itself is good, but very dusty.

Attention: To reduce dust, moisten the ceiling with warm water. The glue is laid in a thick layer, so moisten several times with a spray bottle.

If suspended or suspended ceilings are to be installed, then do not bother with glue, putty, primer - all flaws will be closed with these canvases. If there is wallpaper, whitewash, painting or other tiles, you will have to tinker with the ceiling.
After removing the glue, the putty mixture is diluted in a container with water. The entire ceiling is filled. It is necessary to align all defects, cracks, and resulting irregularities. Do not forget to dry everything well before starting the next operation.
After filling or cleaning, you need to apply a primer so that you do not drain the paint in kilograms in the future. And the primer must be applied not in one layer, but rather in two.
But what if the ceiling remains with the tiles, but some of them need to be replaced? Carefully, always on four sides, pick up the tile with a spatula, clean the place from the glue without damaging the edges. Then insert a new one, press and wait.
Pay attention to the color of the old and new tiles, whether you can leave it that way or you will have to wash the entire ceiling.

Attention: To make work on the ceiling more convenient, it is recommended to lengthen the standard handles of the tools, or immediately buy with longer handles. Do not want to waste your time, nerves and energy on removing tiles, make an agreement with any master builder. He will do it quickly for a small fee, and will be glad to have a part-time job.With frame options for ceilings, everything is much simpler. Here the question: "How to remove the ceiling tiles?" Is generally irrelevant. Having a spare cladding element, it is very easy to install it instead of the damaged one, since the panel is not even attached to the crate.One of the most popular and demanded materials that are often used for ceiling decoration is tile. With its help, you can create a wonderful surface design, make reliable noise insulation and even significantly insulate a house or apartment. But after a certain period of time, there may be a need to replace this material.Ceiling tiles are almost the ideal solution for giving your ceiling a decent look.To do this, you definitely need to know how to remove the ceiling tiles and properly prepare the surface for subsequent repairs.This process consists of several stages.The difficulty in removing tiles from the ceiling is that, as a rule, they are firmly fixed to the surface of the room with the help of special glue. It will be very difficult, long and inexpedient to remove it by hand, without any devices. It's best to do it in a tried and tested way.Today on the building materials market there is a wide range of products for covering and decorating the surface of a room. But you always need to choose exactly the option that suits you both in quality and price. Ceiling tiles are classified according to two main criteria - the principle of their manufacture and the type of surface. As for the first option, it is customary to distinguish the following types of this material:Injection tiles have a denser texture, clear and pronounced pattern.The pressed type of material for covering the surface of the room belongs to the class of inexpensive and low-quality options for decorating your ceiling. It is made from expanded polystyrene blocks using the stamping method. This tile is quite fragile and capable of absorbing dust and dirt, and its thickness is 7-8 mm. This type of material is not recommended to be washed with water, but water-based paint is often applied to it.The injection tile has a correct and clear geometric shape and has high quality indicators. Its thickness is 10-15 mm. It is a very good insulating agent and belongs to the class of environmentally friendly products. One of the disadvantages of this type of material is its high cost.Extruded tiles are thin but durable. A relief pattern, paint and polymer film are applied to the tiles.The main feature of extruded tiles is their absolutely smooth surface. The material is considered the highest quality, durable and expensive type that is used to cover the surface of the room. This type of tile is available in various patterns and colors. It has insulating and protective properties.In terms of the criterion, the variety of surface, as a rule, distinguishes between laminated, seamless and mirror ceiling tiles. Its first type has good waterproofing properties and is available in various colors. This type of tile has a special laminated surface. The main advantage of the seamless type is its simplicity and convenience, as well as the invisibility of the seams between the plates. Mirror type - its main advantage is the visual expansion of the room. This ceiling tile consists of a mirror layer on the front side and can be rectangular or square in shape.Before starting to dismantle the tiled surface of your room, you must choose the right materials and tools for this work. This stage is very important, so it should be treated with all responsibility and seriousness. So, you will need the following materials:

building mixture;

antibacterial surface solution;

cellophane;

water.

Removing tiles from the ceiling should be started from the corner of the room. With a spatula, you need to hook and lift the edge of the tile.You should also have the following tools available:

dust mask;

metal spatula;

hammer or chisel;

puncher;

drill;

water bucket;

grinder with a grinding wheel;

garbage bags;

step ladder.

You should start removing old tiles from your ceiling only after all the furniture has been taken out of the room or covered with cellophane. In the process of this work, the room will become very dusty, so proceed with dismantling only in a respirator. The door to the room should be closed very tightly. It is also necessary to prepare all the above tools and materials for work.Dismantling of tiles is carried out using a perforator.Remove old tiles from the corner of the room.Take a spatula and use it to lift and scrape off the edge of the tile. If you can easily separate the material from the ceiling, then continue the process without further steps. But if the tile begins to break off in pieces, then the process of removing it must be continued using a chisel or hammer. With their help, you will be able to do the dismantling much faster and better.With a very strong fixation of the tile joints, you can separate the two elements using a drill or perforator. To achieve a successful disconnection of the two plates, it will be enough to make a few holes. These electrical tools will come in handy when removing skirting boards or materials such as tiles. Skirting boards must be removed very carefully, as they connect the wall to the surface of the room, and this area should look perfect. It should be free of any defects and irregularities. If it is necessary to remove only individual pieces of tiles, it is necessary to scrape off the necessary elements from four sides with a spatula.Cleaning the ceiling from the remnants of glue and ceiling tiles is carried out with a tapestry.Once you've successfully removed your old ceiling tile, you can start preparing your surface for a new finish. First you need to clean the ceiling from the remnants of glue and remaining pieces of material. This procedure is done with a spatula, but before that it is necessary to moisten the ceiling with water. To level the surface, you can use a grinder with a grinding attachment.When using this electric tool, you must definitely use a respirator, since a large amount of dust is always generated during the process of leveling the ceiling with this method. It can be very harmful to the respiratory tract. With the help of a grinder, you can remove and grind any layers of plaster and whitewash that remain after removing the ceiling tile.Before further finishing the ceiling, it is necessary to level its surface with sandpaper.To make the surface in the room perfectly smooth, it is processed with sandpaper with increased hardness. After carrying out these types of work, you can start painting the ceiling. But if you plan to make a suspended or tensioned view of the surface in the room, then its careful adjustment is not relevant. It all depends on your personal preferences in the design of the ceiling.One of the important points in preparing the surface for its new finish is its treatment with antifungal agents. After removing the tiles from the ceiling, some areas may show signs of mold or bloom. These places must be treated with a special antibacterial agent. Air penetration to the wall becomes limited when the tile material is firmly adhered to the surface. This process creates a favorable environment for the existence of the fungus under the tiles. Experts recommend treating the entire surface with antibacterial agents that remains after removing the tile material.