DIY ceiling repair tiles

In detail: do-it-yourself ceiling repair tiles from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Repair always causes some difficulties and questions.

Some of them relate to the type of building material and its qualities, others to the methods of installation.

Everyone wants to make repairs inexpensively, but with the highest quality.

Let's consider how to glue the ceiling tile with our own hands, we will figure out what types of this material are, and how to choose it correctly.

The modern market offers an immense amount of various finishing materials for interior and exterior work.

Ceiling tiles in the interior

One of these is ceiling tiles. There are several types of it:

Injection is a solid dense tile. It holds well and is easy to assemble. Moreover, it can be painted in any color with water-based paint. Such tiles fit both flat and defective surfaces.
Stamped tiles are considered the most budgetary and common option. It easily withstands changes in temperature and humidity. That is, it is ideal for rooms with high humidity, such as a bathroom, shower or kitchen.
Extruded foam tile. It is a strong, dense and durable material that can be painted, washed, cleaned. For its manufacture, a high-quality material is used - dense foam and sophisticated equipment, with the help of which the tile is dense and durable.

As a rule, ceiling tiles are produced in a standard size - 0.5 * 0.5 meters. They are square, but due to their softness, they can be easily cut. Thanks to this, you can simply spontane the ceiling from square modules or come up with some kind of geometric pattern, which will make the design of the room more interesting and attractive.

Video (click to play).

Like any building material, foam ceiling tiles have their own advantages and disadvantages. It is recommended that you familiarize yourself with them on the eve of the repair in order to weigh and compare all the pros and cons. The advantages of this building material include the following factors:

Originality and uniqueness. Due to the shape of the tile, you can create a variety of patterns on the ceiling from it. At the same time, the modules can be painted with water-based paint in different colors, which will add originality to the ceiling. In addition, the tiles are easy to re-paint. Thanks to this, you can refresh the room at least every six months and make it unique by decorating the ceiling.
Ease of installation. The tiles are very light and soft. It is easy to transport, since its weight is a couple of grams, and its size is 50 * 50 centimeters. During installation, it is easily glued, does not create any inconvenience, completely duplicates the shape of the surface. No special tools are needed to cut the tiles - a sharpened knife is enough.
Additional qualities are heat and sound insulation. By its properties, polyfoam is one of the best heat-conducting materials. By making the ceiling from such a tile, you can muffle the sounds from the neighbors upstairs and keep the room warm longer.
Versatility - such a tile can be laid on a surface of any material - plasterboard, chipboard, plaster, concrete, whitewash, and so on.

In addition to its advantages, this material has one important drawback - it does not allow air to pass through. That is, the wall does not breathe under it. Because of this, mold and mildew may appear over time. But in order to avoid this, there are special impregnations with which materials are pre-processed to protect against parasites and mold.

In order to glue the tiles, you must first prepare the surface. To do this, you need to remove the previous coating. If there are obvious flaws on the surface, you need to use plaster and level them.

After that, the ceiling is completely skinned and cleaned. When all the dust is removed, you need to treat the surface with a primer, so that the adhesive material better adheres to the ceiling surface.

When the primer is dry, you can start working. The first step is to mark with a pencil the places where the tiles will be placed. Then the solution is prepared and the installation of the tiles begins.

Ceiling tiles can be fixed in several ways:

the tile is attached to the glue (silicone) if the ceiling is even
on plaster or adhesive for tiles or drywall, if there are flaws and irregularities on the surface - the solution will help to level them and at the same time mount a beautiful surface

What material to attach to - it is up to the master to choose. When fastening to a flat surface, the following algorithm is used:

An initial section on the ceiling is selected and coated with adhesive. Too large areas do not need to be smeared right away so that the solution does not dry out.
The tile is applied to the ceiling and gently snuggled with your hands and smoothed around the entire perimeter (you need to hold it for 30-60 seconds for the glue to freeze a little).
The next tile is installed end-to-end to the first one using the same technology.

Thus, the entire material is applied. If necessary, the tiles are carefully trimmed, having previously accurately measured the required dimensions. It is important to bear in mind that the ceiling may be uneven, therefore the tiles will have to be cut as well.

If the surface is initially flat, without visible flaws, then you can immediately mount the main material. If there are irregularities, then in this case there are certain nuances.

To glue the ceiling tile to an uneven ceiling, it is better to use a tile mortar or putty instead of foam glue. It is much denser in structure, due to which it will create an additional leveling effect. It should not be applied to the slab, but directly to the ceiling. It is also necessary to make grooves in order for the foam to hold well.

Too much mortar is not needed, it is worth starting with a minimum layer that will help level the surface. At one time, you can apply a solution to the ceiling on an area of 1x1 meter, that is, on four modules. Such an area is easy to level, and at the same time the solution will not have time to harden. The tile is neatly applied to the ceiling and is easily pressed evenly around the entire perimeter.

In order for the ceiling to be flat in the end, it is necessary to control the depth of pressing the foam into the solution, for this it is recommended to take a level. Thus, you need to process the entire surface of the ceiling.

Another non-standard situation that interests novice builders is how to glue ceiling tiles to whitewash. To do this, the ceiling is carefully cleaned with sandpaper, then all dust is removed and the surface is covered with a primer in 2-3 layers. After that, you need to hold it with your hand (when the soil material dries up), if the whitewash is not taken, then you can start. The mounting technology is the same as usual.

If in the process of work a solution gets on the tile, it must be removed immediately, otherwise it will be impossible when it hardens. After the ceiling is completely glued, it must be allowed time to dry.

After that, the corners are processed. It is best to use foam baguettes. They are applied in the same way as tiles. If desired, the ceiling can be painted with water-based paint.

In order for the quality of tile laying to be at the highest level, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the advice of experienced craftsmen:

If the thinnest tile is used, then it is better to use silicone or acrylic in pistols for fixing it. Other material will make it heavier and cause deformation.
For uneven ceilings, it is better to use the densest tiles and preferably with a pattern. This effect will make it possible to hide the flaws. It will be cheaper than screed the surface.
Such tiles can be used to process not only the ceiling, but also the walls.
When choosing a tile, you can use the following technique: take the tile by the corner, parallel to the floor and lift it. If the corner does not break off, then the quality of the material is decent.
The tile is highly flammable, so it cannot be used for ceilings in rooms where there is a stove or fireplace.
It is not recommended to clean the tiles with chemicals as a result of operation. For this, water and a sponge are enough to remove dust. For the kitchen, it is better to use the extruded type. You can use cleaning products on it to wash away kitchen fumes.

Using these tips, you can easily make the perfect ceiling yourself without any problems.

How to quickly glue ceiling tiles - on the video:

Have you noticed a mistake? Highlight it and press Ctrl + Enterto let us know.

How does the renovation of any room begin? Of course, with the repair of the ceiling. How to repair the ceiling in an apartment with your own hands will be discussed in this article.

The ceiling needs to be repaired every 10 years, since during this time more than one layer of water-based paint or lime accumulates on it. Over time, it begins to fall off, and small cracks appear. Also, repairs may be required if you find that the joints of the ceiling tiles are uneven or the seams are too visible.

Many people mistakenly believe that it is easier to make the ceiling hinged, then repair work will not be needed. In fact, it is better to continue whitening it or wallpapering it, so it will breathe, dust will not accumulate on it, and this finishing method is much cheaper than any other.
Any renovation begins with the need to remove everything from the premises. Ceiling renovations are no exception.

Next, you need to remove the previous coatings. This can be: lime, paint, wallpaper, and so on. This work is simple, but laborious and requires additional means of protection.

You can remove previous coatings in different ways, depending on their composition.

The paint is washed off with special means, lime - with water, wallpaper - first torn off, then soaked with water.
Foam tiles from the ceiling can be easily removed with a metal trowel. In order for the ceiling to be repaired well, it must be cleaned to the ground.

It is important to understand that there are cheap paints and high quality expensive ones.

To remove cheap water-based paint, just soak it with water.

Algorithm of actions:

Wet the paint 1 time with hot water at a temperature of 60-80 degrees. To do this, you can use a regular paint roller with a long bristle, a paintbrush or a brush;
Wait 10-15 minutes;
Re-wet the paint with hot water of the same temperature;
Using a steel trowel, remove the soggy layer of water-based paint.

In the process of performing such work, small scratches may appear on the ceiling, therefore, after removing the old paint, the ceiling will need to be putty.
To do this, use a ready-made, fine putty, which is usually sold in buckets. It is easy to apply to the ceiling in a small layer and to sand.
Also carefully inspect the condition of all seams. Cover them with plaster if necessary. More on this below.

1.painting roller;
2.maklovitsa brush

It is important to know that high-quality expensive water-based paints are not afraid of water. Therefore, such paint can be removed only with sandpaper and it will be difficult to do this. She skins very badly.

In such a situation, it is recommended to apply a good primer, and in a day a new coat of paint.Of course, this option can be considered in the case of cosmetic repairs, when there is no serious damage to the ceiling.

It is always recommended to use a coat of primer after cleaning the ceiling.

Any type of use is allowed in the apartments. The main function of the primer is to create a reinforcing protective layer through deep penetration into the treated surface. This saves any subsequent material applied over it.
Most primers are versatile and suitable for both adhesive and limestone materials. When buying, you can always consult the seller.

How cleaning and priming the ceiling looks like in practice, see the video:

Further, repair work is built on the basis of what you need. If you plan to level the ceiling, then do it with a plaster mixture or plaster. But before leveling, be sure to prime the ceiling, as mentioned earlier. This will provide better grip.
To level the ceiling, you will need a bag of plaster and putty.
Material consumption depends on the area of your ceiling. Arriving at the store, choose the appropriate amount of packaging. If in doubt, check with the sellers how much plaster and putty you need for your area.Take your choice of tools seriously. It is not worth saving, but it is better to purchase high-quality spatulas and trowels, because the final result of your work will depend on this. Image - DIY ceiling repair tiles

1.trowel;
2. spatula;
3.Plastering trowel 350 mm

Dilute the dry plaster mixture with water according to the instructions on the package and mix well. For a more thorough mixing, you can use a slow-speed drill with a mixer attachment.

After applying each layer, the surface is left to dry for a day.
This completes the rough alignment of the ceiling and you can start working with the putty. It will help smooth out all small irregularities.The putty is used for finishing the ceiling. It is used after rough leveling of large cracks, irregularities, depressions and surface drops with plaster. The same rule works here as with plaster - after applying each layer, a day must pass before applying the next one.After the filler has dried, the ceiling can be sanded to a perfect shine.Types of putty according to the degree of readiness:

There are dry putties. They are sold packaged in bags. They must first be diluted with water and mixed;

Ready-made putties, which are usually sold in buckets. As mentioned earlier, we recommend using ready-made putties, because they are easy to use.

It is advisable to use a polymer putty for painting. She has the longest "life time", i.e. after application, it can be stretched for a longer time, which means that it is possible to work out and level the entire surface thoroughly before the composition begins to dry. It also has a very fine grind, which will have a positive effect on finishing surface cleaning.The putty is chosen relative to the base on which it will be applied. Consultants of hardware stores will also help you in the selection.

In order to properly glue the tiles to the ceiling, pay special attention to the physical, and especially the geometric parameters of the product when buying.

For example, you have opted for a square tile. All corners of the element must be absolutely right, that is, equal to 90 degrees. Any deviation, even the slightest, in the process of work will lead to the formation of uneven seams, and this will entail additional material costs and an unaesthetic appearance of the ceiling. In no case is it allowed to round or hedge the corners of the tiles.

It is also very important to take into account the material from which the ceiling tile is made. Make sure that the edges of the polyprostyrene tiles do not crumble, and that the grains are the same size among themselves. Fine-grained tiles are considered to be of the highest quality.

A polystyrene foam plate, if it is of good quality, will not break under its own weight when you hold it around the corner. The pattern must be clear and uniform across the entire package. Any flaws, dents and deformations are strictly not allowed.

Have you ever wondered how important it is to choose the right adhesive for a particular job? Many people mistakenly believe that "glue is glue in Africa," and whatever you take it will still stick to glory. True, then you have to redo the repairs again, spending even more money and time on it.

It is not in vain that manufacturers of construction and repair materials have been distributing adhesives according to a narrow specialization for many years. It can be considered a marketing ploy that there are a huge variety of types of glue for the same ceiling tile on store shelves. But the fact is obvious: with glue for pressed tiles, you are unlikely to properly attach injection tiles to the ceiling. What features should be considered in order to choose the right option?

First, the adhesive should provide your ceiling covering for many years without having to rework individual elements from time to time.
Secondly, the glue must have high bonding properties in order to ensure ease of use. Working with a ceiling is much more difficult than working with a floor or even a wall, so it is important to attach each tile to the surface as quickly as possible.
Thirdly, it is very important to take into account the consumption of glue.The higher the level of adhesion of the substance, the less you will use it, significantly saving on materials.
Fourth, the glue should adhere equally well to the surface in both small and large layers. This is due to the fact that in many houses the floors are uneven, which creates differences between the slabs of about 2 cm. In such cases, more glue may be needed so that the tiles do not fall off. You can pre-align the ceiling, but this is a time consuming and expensive procedure.

First, you need to determine how many tiles are required for the entire ceiling area. The calculation is quite simple: you need the ceiling area and the exact size of each plate. The standard ceiling tile size is 50 X 50 cm.

It may turn out that the dimensions of the ceiling and the sides of the tiles are not multiples. This will lead to gaps at the edges. It is for this case that experts recommend buying 10-15% more tiles than with a preliminary calculation. This will also insure you against culling or pruning errors.

For your information: you can save a lot on glue if you choose a liquid rubber-based product - its consumption is much lower. In order for the fixation to be strong, let the glue applied to the tile dry a little.

Gluing the ceiling tiles with your own hands is an easy task, and therefore many do this work themselves. For beginners, our tips will definitely come in handy.

First of all, you need to mark the center of the area to be trimmed. Pull two strands in from the diagonal corners. The intersection of the threads will be the very center.
You can start working from the chandelier, taking its location as the center. You will need to cut the corners of the plates at the docking point at the wire. At the end of the work, you will close this gap with a curly glass attached to the chandelier rod.
The fastest and easiest way is gluing the tiles from the wall row by row. If you chose this option, then take into account one nuance: you need to lay the first row against the wall opposite the front door or window. Thus, the gaps closed by partial fragments will not be noticeable. Carefully cut the shims around the edges of the tiles before gluing them. Thus, you get a seamless ceiling tile with a perfectly flat surface.
Do not forget to observe the symmetry of the pattern at the joints of the elements. Any deviation can disrupt the entire finish.

There are several options for placing tiles on the ceiling in relation to the walls in the room. Most often, parallel and diagonal arrangement is used. The tiles can be monochromatic, colored and combined. For the combined option, there are the following location methods:

Snake;
Alternating diagonals;
Intersecting diagonals;
In the center of the ceiling;
Along the perimeter of the ceiling;
Staggered.

After all the work is completed, install the skirting boards around the perimeter of the ceiling. If you chose plastic skirting boards, use the same glue as for the tiles, if wooden - it would be more correct to fix them with nails or screws.

Read also: DIY octavia a5 repair

Seamless ceiling tiles are almost ideal if you want your ceiling to look noble. In fact, this is a tile made of expanded polystyrene familiar to us, but its edges are decorated in such a way that the joints are almost invisible. This material is very fond of interior designers, because it allows you to transform any room without much time.

Seamless ceiling tiles are made from expanded polystyrene by hot stamping. This method compresses the sheets to a thickness of about 5 mm.
The usual size of models of seamless ceiling tiles is 50 X 50 cm, while there are usually 8 such tiles in a package. This allows you to tiled a ceiling of 2 square meters without much effort and measurements.
Tiles can have both smooth and wavy contours.The form is designed in such a way that the joining is as easy as possible, and the transition of the pattern at the joints is perfectly observed.
The design performance of seamless tiles is very diverse: imitation of plaster moldings, natural texture of stone or wood, wood carvings.

The advantages of seamless ceiling tiles are obvious:

Low cost;
Refractoriness;
Moisture resistance;
Easy to maintain;
Possibility of painting in any color.

Plus, seamless tiles make it easy to hide the unevenness of the ceiling, and you don't have to level up.

Tip: When purchasing a seamless ceiling tile, immediately purchase a custom skirting board. It will be needed in order to hide the joints of the wall and ceiling, where the tile trim line is located.

You do not need any special skills to install seamless tiles - it practically does not differ from gluing simple tiles. But you will need to perform some preparatory operations. Their quality will determine how effective your ceiling will look afterwards.

First of all, thoroughly clean the surface of the ceiling from the previous finishing materials: remove the old wallpaper with a spatula, clean off the paint with a metal brush, wash off the whitewash to concrete.
Be sure to remove the chandelier from the ceiling or dismantle the lamps, insulate the wires from the lighting fixtures.
Apply a few coats of primer to the ceiling. Modern adhesives allow you to attach tiles directly to concrete, but the primer increases adhesion, so it will not be superfluous.

Please note: since seamless ceiling tiles hide small surface defects well, alignment with a putty is required only in the case of sagging more than 5 mm and large depressions.

After the preparatory measures are completed, proceed directly to gluing the tiles. This process has several features that are worth paying attention to:

It is advisable, having opened the packaging with tiles, leave it to lie in the room where you plan to mount it;
To make it easier for yourself, apply the markings on the ceiling as described in the third part of the article;
Be sure to remove any glue that comes out of the gaps immediately so that the tiles will not be damaged after it dries.

Tip: Use construction tape to hold the rows of glued tiles together. This will keep them from loosening while the glue dries and cures.

Yes, this option is also possible. We are often faced with such a need, and it is not always possible to get rid of the whitewash layer. In order to cope with this kind of work, there are two methods:

Apply a primer over the old layer of whitewash. This product will soak into the old coating and adhere to the main surface of the ceiling. Wait until the primer coat is completely dry and start finishing.
When using the second method, you will need to partially scrape off the layer of whitewash with a spatula in those places where it peeled off. When gluing tiles to such places, apply a thicker layer of glue from the wrong side, and press it against the ceiling for a few minutes. Thus, the glue will saturate the whitewash layer and set to overlap.

It is undesirable to glue the tiles on the ceiling whitewashed in several layers. Such a layer, weighted with glue, will surely collapse over time. Ceilings treated with frozen lime are also not suitable for tiling. The fact is that such a solution will crumble like dust, and the glue will not have a setting zone.

Be sure to clean the ceiling before work: sweep it from debris and cobwebs and wipe it with a wet rag.

Styrofoam ceiling tiles are the most common, affordable way to renovate a ceiling. Everyone tries to approach it responsibly and individually. Before gluing the ceiling tiles, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work so that a beautiful ceiling covering, with an original finish, will please the eye for many years. Choosing a finishing option, everyone tries to approach it responsibly and individually. He tries to familiarize himself with the varieties of this material, the rules for calculating the required amount, what glue to glue, as well as some of the nuances of combining tiles with the interior of the room.

In the construction market, ceiling tiles are represented by the following varieties, which differ in the methods of their production:

Pressed ceiling tiles are made of polystyrene blocks by stamping. Finished product thickness min - 6 mm, max - 8 mm.
Extruded blocks are produced from polystyrene strip by pressing. They have a shiny, smooth surface. The plates can be structured like a marble slab, a cut of a tree trunk and other natural materials.
For the manufacture of injector ceiling tiles, a method is used in which the raw material is sintered. As a result, the product has a regular shape with a deep pattern. Its thickness is from 9, but not more than 14 mm.

In order to properly glue the tiles for the ceiling, during the purchase, you need to pay special attention to the geometry of the product. If a tile is selected in squares, then all its corners must correspond to the required parameters, that is, equal to 90º. The slightest deviation in the future will lead to the formation of uneven seams. The corners of the ceiling tiles must not be rounded or pinched.

Another indicator when choosing a ceiling tile is the material from which it is made. When buying polystyrene tiles, you need to make sure that the edges do not crumble, and all the grains are the same in size. Higher quality is considered to be one with a particularly fine grain size. Expanded polystyrene plates should not break under their own weight if held at any of the corners while suspended. The selected ceiling tile should have a clear pattern. No flaws are allowed, any minor inaccuracy or dent will immediately attract attention.

After choosing the type of ceiling tile according to its physical parameters and external design, it is necessary to determine how many tiles will be required for the entire ceiling area. More experienced owners immediately buy 10-15% more in case of rejection due to broken corners or mistakes during pruning. In general, the calculation is not difficult. It is necessary to know the area of the ceiling and the size of each element. Typically, ceiling tiles are produced in sizes of side faces of 50-50 cm. If the dimensions of the ceiling are not a multiple of the length of the side of the tiles, then during finishing there will be gaps along the edges of the ceiling. Therefore, when calculating such a nuance must be taken into account.

An experienced craftsman's advice: If you want to save on glue, instead of liquid nails, it is better to use transparent glue with a more liquid "rubber" base. Its consumption is significantly lower. But for a strong fixation, be sure to dry the glue already applied to the tile a little.

Having calculated the required number of tiles, you need to decide what kind of glue to glue. Many people use "Titan", "Econaset", "Liquid nails", "Moment". They adhere well to all surfaces and dry quickly. After gluing, the tiles adhere firmly. Only for this it is necessary to press it against the ceiling for a few seconds.

Many owners of apartments and private houses prefer to glue the ceiling tiles with their own hands. Therefore, it is important for them to know that work must begin with marking the center of the finishing area.To do this, from diagonally located corners, you need to stretch two threads. Their intersection is the desired center. If there is a chandelier in the room, then you can start work from this point. In this case, the docking angles at the luminaire wire are slightly cut off. As a result, they will be closed with a curly glass of the chandelier rod.

Many start working from one of the walls and lay the tiles row by row. This option is the simplest and fastest. But there is also a small nuance here. It is better to lay the first row from the wall opposite the window or front door. Then the gaps that are closed by partial fragments will not be so noticeable.

Before proceeding with the sticker, the ebb around the edges of the product must be carefully cut off. In this case, the surface of the ceiling will turn out to be perfectly flat, without seams. It is also necessary to strictly observe the symmetry of the pattern at the joints of the tiles. The slightest deviation violates the entire integrity and beauty of the finish.

There are relatively many options for the location of the ceiling tiles relative to the walls of the room. The most common are parallel and diagonal with respect to the edges of the intersection of walls and ceilings. You can choose from plain, color and combination tiles. Of the combined styling options, the following are most often practiced:

alternating or intersecting diagonals,
staggered
snake
along the perimeter of the ceiling or in its center, etc.

At the end of the work, skirting boards are installed around the entire perimeter. They are glued with the same glue as the tile itself.

We will glue directly to the whitewash, so you should choose one of two ways:

The first is that a primer is applied over the old whitewash. It is absorbed into the layer of the old coating and adheres to the main surface of the ceiling. Then you need to wait until the primer is completely dry and start finishing.
The second method involves partial scraping of the falling off whitewashed layer with a spatula. As a result, a thicker layer of glue is applied to the seamy surface of the tile, and it is pressed for several minutes to the gluing site. The glue is absorbed through a thin layer of whitewash remaining on the ceiling and sets to the overlap.

Ceiling renovation is a laborious and costly process. In addition to tiles, you can arrange tension and suspended structures, mirror panels of various configurations and sizes. Everything here is decided by the financial capabilities and fantasies of the owner.The content of the article:

Preparatory work

Types of ceiling tiles

The choice of adhesive

Ceiling drawing and marking

Parallel mount

Diagonal mounting

Block gluing

Useful Tips

Finishing the ceiling with foam tiles is more of a budget option for renovation. However, a wide variety of materials allows you to choose the most suitable models for painting or with an interesting pattern. In order for such a coating to look aesthetically pleasing and keep securely, special attention must be paid to the pasting process. Image - DIY ceiling repair tiles

You need to start gluing the ceiling before cladding the walls, since glue can stain the wallpaper. However, if the replacement of the decoration on the walls is not planned, and the ceiling needs to be pasted over, then the wallpaper can be covered with plastic wrap. Almost any type of surface (wood, concrete) can be pasted over with foam plastic ceiling tiles.

For the reliability of fixation and durability of the coating, we prepare the ceiling:

We remove the chandelier and insulate the ends of the wires.

We get rid of the old finish. At the same stage, we tap the surface for the presence of unreliably fixed elements. In the corners and at the joints, it is more convenient to do it with a screwdriver.

We remove stains of rust, mold, mildew, soot and grease with special antiseptic solutions. If you skip this stage, then all traces will eventually appear on the new cladding.

We make a thick mixture of cement-based putty and cover large gaps, if any.

We prime the ceiling with a deep penetration compound with antifungal components. Please note that a deep penetration primer can be prepared at home by diluting PVA glue in water in a ratio of one to three.

At the same stage, we evaluate the evenness of the coating. If the drop and potholes are significant, then we level them with a layer of starting putty. Then we rub the roughness with sanding paper and primer with acrylic compound. If the irregularities are insignificant, then the tile itself will mask them.

In the process, we need the ceiling tile itself and the glue with which we will fix it to the surface.

According to the method of production, tiles are:

Pressed

Extruded... Produced in blocks. In the manufacturing process, a film-coated polystyrene strip is used, which is intensively pressed. Products are distinguished by a higher density compared to pressed tiles, a smooth and shiny surface, and their thickness is usually 2.5 mm. There are models that imitate wood, marble and other natural materials. Such tiles can be pasted over the ceiling in the bathroom, since it has increased moisture-resistant characteristics.

Injection... Products are produced by sintering raw materials in special molds. The pellets are not destroyed during production. Therefore, in the end, a tile of the correct geometric shape with a deep pattern is obtained. Thickness - from 9 to 14 mm.

Seamless... Such a coating looks as aesthetically pleasing as possible, since it has no visible seams. This material will cost more, but it looks more aesthetically pleasing.

Having decided on the type of ceiling tile, pay special attention to its quality. To do this, when buying, consider the following features:

Each element should be geometrically correct, the sides should be even, the corners should be 90 degrees. Otherwise, when gluing, there will be uneven seams and rows.

The finer the grain in the polystyrene foam tile, the better it is. However, make sure that the product does not crumble or crumble around the edges.

The pattern must be uniform, free from defects, and the pattern must be clear and symmetrical.

Traditionally, tiles are produced in sizes 50 * 50, therefore, it is not difficult to calculate the required number of elements, knowing the area of the ceiling. Rectangular models of extruded tiles with dimensions of 100 * 16.5 cm are much less common.

As for the adhesive for ceiling tiles, then its selection should be taken no less seriously than the choice of tiles, because the durability of the finish, the reliability of fastening, and ease of use depend on it. It is important that it does not have a too thick or too liquid structure. Only in this case it will lie down in both a thick and a thin layer, which is very important if the ceiling has slight irregularities.

For gluing the ceiling with tiles, different compositions are used: putty, drywall glue, liquid nails, polyurethane or acrylic glue.

First of all, the choice of the composition depends on the type of surface. Tiles can be fixed to a leveled ceiling with liquid nails, polyurethane and acrylic glue. But if the surface is uneven, then it is better to use a putty. It will be evenly distributed over the surface and will provide a secure fit.

Before starting work, you need to draw up a scheme according to which the tile will be fixed. The most common location options are: parallel, diagonal, combined (staggered, snake, perimeter).

Depending on the chosen method of placing the tiles, you need to make a ceiling marking. To do this, you need a tape measure, a laser level and a chopping line.

We carry out work according to the following instructions:

For parallel fastening, the marking line is applied from opposite corners. They should intersect in the center.

For diagonal fastening in the center of the ceiling, we beat off the lines connecting the centers of the opposite walls with a paint cord.

Parallel to the two axial lines over the entire surface with a step of 0.5 meters (the standard size of the ceiling tile), we draw lines.

Do not rely on the eye and start gluing without marking, as uneven gaps will completely ruin the result.

You need to start gluing the tiles using this technique at the wall opposite from the door. Better yet, from the most visible angle.

We carry out the work in the following sequence:

We apply glue along the perimeter of the wrong side of the tile and in the middle with a cross. It is not recommended to lubricate with an unnecessarily thick layer. Otherwise, sloppy marks will appear along the edges, and the seams between individual parts will become much more noticeable.

Press the tiles tightly to the surface and smooth them in one plane. This is necessary for the adhesive to adhere evenly.

We first join the next element with the previous one and only then press it against the coating. Please note, be sure to pay attention to the symmetry of the pattern.

In this way we glue the entire ceiling to the edge.

Having reached the extreme row, measure the distance from the seam of the previous tile to the wall with a ruler and cut off the desired part with a clerical knife. It is not recommended to cut off several at once. It is best to take a new measurement for each row as the walls may be uneven.

At the end of the tile gluing process, you must close the gaps with decorative skirting boards. They are usually made of the same material and adhered to the same adhesive.

It is more convenient to start fixing diagonally from the center of the ceiling. If a lighting fixture is planned to be installed in this place, then the edges of the tiles will have to be cut off. In the future, the hole can be closed with a decorative plug.

In the process, we adhere to the following instructions:

According to the markings made, we attach the first tile in the center so that there is a line in the middle for each corner.

We fix the second part along the axes marked on the ceiling.

We glue the tiles along both axes from the center to the walls.

We attach the rest of the details.

For installation on the extreme row, we cut out a suitable element, having previously measured the required distance with a ruler.

The essence of this method is to fix four elements at once and align them along one plane. It is most often used when pasting an uneven ceiling with a putty.

We carry out the work in the following order:

Using a notched trowel, apply the adhesive to the ceiling under the area of the four slabs. Using this tool allows you to immediately apply a layer of the desired thickness.

We attach four parts at once and join them together.

Using a two-meter level or rule, we align all elements with respect to the ceiling and with each other.

Along the marked line, lay a row of two tiles to each wall in sequence. In this case, the parts must be positioned so that their joint passes exactly along the axis.

We attach the rest of the elements according to the markings applied.

We make the extreme row from the prepared segments.

The technology of fixing tiles to the ceiling is not particularly difficult, and with the right approach, even a beginner can cope with it. However, some tricks will help you avoid mistakes and make your work much easier:

Before starting work, leave the tiles in the room where the installation is planned for a while. This is necessary to adapt the material.

The combination of tiles of several colors looks original. Such a combination can be placed in a rhombus, in a checkerboard pattern, or in another pattern, depending on your preferences.

A small arrow is usually applied to the seamy side of the slabs. Make sure that on each part it looks in one direction.

To prevent the formation of teeth on the coating and the seam to be lost, it is not recommended to interrupt the process in the middle of the row.

If it is necessary to wipe the gaps in some places, then this should be done only after the adhesive has dried. It is best to do this using a putty or sealant. If the grout comes into contact with the tiles, immediately remove it with a wet brush.

The tile will press more tightly against the ceiling if you hold it not with your hands, but with a wooden block to evenly distribute the load.

In order to save money for pasting, you can use transparent compositions on a liquid "rubber" basis. Their consumption is much less, however, in order for the part to be fixed securely, after applying the glue to the tile, you need to wait a little until it dries.

It is not recommended to install high-power lamps at a distance of less than 20 cm from the covering, as the polystyrene foam can melt when exposed to high temperatures.

If you prefer foam tiles, then keep in mind that water-based paint for its finishing will not work, since it will begin to peel off in a year. The best option for these purposes is a dispersion composition based on acrylates.

Watch a video on installing ceiling tiles:

Video (click to play).