DIY fuse repair toz 34

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the toz 34 fuse from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

This video shows how you can make the fuse easier on a TOZ-34 gun by yourself without going to the workshop.

Hello, tell me, the problem is that when the cartridges are locked in the chamber, the gun is locked very tightly and you have to forcefully push the flag with your finger?

Before loading cartridges, I usually insert the casings into the barrels and select them and calibrate them that are tight.

Dastin58 Thank you, I will drive the sleeves

Everything is clear, the reason is in the cartridges.

I use Dastin58 cartridges

There may be chambers of different sizes or grooves along the edge of the case, try another manufacturer's cartridges.

I have a problem with an accuracy of one turn, after the first shot the gun goes into safety

Try to bend the fuse spring rod to make the fuse tighter, usually you have to bend a little per revolution.

Thank you for your answer, how much will it cost?

Good afternoon, back to the question, can you really carve a fuse with a toz -34 button?

It's easier to look for a ready-made one on the Hansa.

Dastin58 button with full slider

Fuse button or completely?

Dastin58 thanks for the answer, how much will it cost?

Please tell me why you grind in the area of the holes, not solder on the safety spring itself? Can it be made flatter?

The safety spring is thin, it is better not to sharpen it.

it was easier to sharpen with a drill or drill

before collection. cock the drummers with your thumb and you will not need to poke at anything with a screwdriver and press the strikers. Then when you assemble. attach the trunks and make a smooth descent.

Video (click to play).

YOU GET COOL ROLLERS. JUST LOOKING PLEASANT.

Please tell me what could happen to the items if you shoot through the guard? On toz 34

The lever pin does not drive out. I don't want to hit hard, what can I do?

Try to knock on the other side, if it does not work, knock on harder, nothing will break there.

the spring is removed only in one of the positions of the mechanism, unfortunately I did not remember in which

removed the spring without removing the lever, simply pressing it in the area of the lever with a flat screwdriver, while the lever was released

Hello, a friend on TOZ-34 has very tight descents, especially the lower barrel, if it is possible to eliminate it, describe or show. Thanks in advance!

Hi, maybe I changed the spring whispering on the lower barrel on my TOZ-34, it was too tight I had in stock, the spare ones were weaker than my relatives. You can try to compress the native spring with pliers so that it presses the sear with less effort. After replacing the trigger became very light on the upper barrel did not change, it should be a little tighter. Under their own weight, the triggers work.

Thank you for the video! Made my toz even a little better!

Hello, such a problem, the fuse button is lost without a flask toz-34 with a button, I can’t find anywhere there is only such as uvas, if you put a thrust and a button, how can you put uvas?

Hi, it won't be easier for your gun to grind a new button.

what is the "fuse engine?" This is the "fuse" itself

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From Nikolay Sh
Created on June 3, 2009

From Denis
Created on August 15, 2009

From GAVIALL
Created Yesterday at 07:36

From Denis
Created on August 15, 2009

From Kolobok
Created on April 17, 2012

From Your-Optic
Created Tuesday at 20:59

About a year ago, I learned from a colleague about the guns of his father-in-law stored in the district police department, which he was not averse to selling, seized due to the delay of ROCH.Without thinking for a long time, I decided to take these cats in a sack, the pensioner even refused to take the money after the paperwork, but I still gave him an orange bill, in return for which I received IZH54 and TOZ-34 in state 3.

But my story is not about how I took possession of the trunks, but about the childhood disease of TOZ. Many owners of TOZ-34 are aware of such a problem as an inoperative fuse, at least I know several of them. A study of the mechanisms of the gun reveals the cause, sagging cocks, who do not cocked the triggers, which in turn do not allow the fuse to be turned on. As a rule, the right cocking party is weakened more.

Several pictures with comments

in order to remove the cocks, it is necessary to separate the barrels

unscrew the screw holding the bracket

unscrew the rear trigger securing screw that holds the stock

with a specially sharpened screwdriver (the tip must be very thin), unscrew the fastening screw of the trigger

The tip of the screwdriver should not be “very thin”, but one that matches the slots of the screws and the length of the slot.
Otherwise, you will destroy the screw head, because a screwdriver with a tapered (sharp tip) sharpening only acts on the edges of the slot.
This rule applies not only to gunsmiths, but also to watchmakers, medical technicians and even neat mechanics.

And yes, it would be better to knock out the pin by placing a block of hard wood, and not with a hammer. IMHO.

when the screws are unscrewed, the stock is easily separated from the breech

by what turns up under the arm, and a rivet turned up for me, carefully knock out the cocking pin, the main thing is that what turned up under the arm was smaller in diameter than the pin

unscrew the two screws securing the front plate (xs as it is called in science)
it is very important that the screwdriver engages securely in the screw slots. burrs will interfere with the opening and closing of the barrels in the future, well, it is better to divide the bolts into right and left, they are adjusted in place during the manufacture of the gun

unscrewing the screws carefully from the back, push out this plate, it holds the springs of the strikers, it is not advisable to lose them

this is how the shot looks like

and so the breech without this plate

and actually the platooners themselves

studied the disassembly of the mechanism from the TOLSTOV HUNTER video and for some reason he says in his video that the cocks need to be straightened, on the contrary, I beat them

This is how the cocked (closer to you) and undercocked hammers look like.

Federal Law "On Weapons", N 150-FZ Article 1 -
.
production of weapons - research, development, testing, manufacturing, as well as artistic decoration and repair of weapons, production of ammunition, cartridges and their components;
.

CC Article 223. Illegal manufacture of weapons
1. Illegal manufacture, alteration or repair of firearms, their main parts (except for firearms of limited destruction), as well as illegal manufacture of ammunition -

shall be punishable by deprivation of liberty for a term of three to five years, with a fine in the amount of one hundred thousand to two hundred thousand rubles, or in the amount of the wage or salary, or any other income of the convicted person for a period of six months to one year.

How long has the Usm become the main part? Or am I not aware of something?

Sorry, did not see about the "ending", embarrassed the comment

Federal Law “On Weapons”, N 150-FZ | Art 16

Article 16. Production of weapons and ammunition for them

[Federal Law "On Weapons"] [Article 16]
The production of weapons and ammunition for it is carried out by legal entities that have a production license, in the manner established by the Government of the Russian Federation. Legal entities producing weapons and ammunition for them must ensure the safety of production, control over production, the appropriate quality of products and their safety.

Each unit of manufactured weapons, with the exception of mechanical dispensers, aerosols and other devices filled with tear or irritating substances, must have an individual number.

Military hand-held small arms, with the exception of prototypes, are manufactured only for supplies to state paramilitary organizations, as well as for supplies to other states in accordance with the procedure established by the Government of the Russian Federation.

The equipment of cartridges for a hunting smooth-bore firearm may be made by the owner of this weapon for personal use, provided that he has a permit to store and carry a hunting smooth-bore firearm. Repair and replacement of component parts of firearms, with the exception of the main parts of firearms, may be carried out by the owner of these weapons on their own.

In organizations engaged in the production of weapons and ammunition for it, positions related to the production, accounting, storage and sale of weapons and ammunition for it, the main parts of firearms, cannot be replaced by persons who have an unexpunged or unexpunged conviction for a crime committed intentionally, or in respect of whom the court has established a ban to fill such positions or engage in certain professional or entrepreneurial activities in the field of arms trafficking.

In the production of firearms of limited destruction, gas weapons, signal weapons and pneumatic weapons, the main parts of military hand-held small arms and service firearms should not be used.

Subject: Toz - 34EP When fired, the fuse moves to the 'lock' position. - Malfunctions, repairs, maintenance of weapons - All about weapons - Main section - Forums of the Open Club Petersburg Hunter

I myself have the same situation.
It manifests itself mainly when shooting at the stand, approximately after the series.
It was very disappointing at the spring postrelushki. Do not add, nor do you really shoot a doublet.
The reason is not fully understood, but it began after I shortened the screw connecting the upper and lower parts (sorry for the primitivism, there is no literature at hand), which is (closed) under the trigger guard. I shortened it due to the opposite reason - when tightening (apparently the tree had dried up), it began to protrude more strongly, and prevented it from being fused. After sharpening, I drove the screw with a scraper. Now, from recoil, after 20-25 shots, it begins to self-unroll by about half a turn, and the gun gets up after the shot goes into safety. If you pull it up, it seems normal. I tried to blacken it, but apparently not enough. Self-expansion has decreased, but not disappeared.

I join the question!
Can anyone come across such nonsense and know the specific reason?

_________________
Love your Motherland - your Mother! (Master)

You will hear a lot more.

There are guns that are automatically locked.
Before firing it must be removed from the safety catch.

This is, by the way, hunting safety.

_________________
Love your Motherland - your Mother! (Master)

Sto probably meant he hadn’t heard of a TOZ 34 with an automatic fuse. (Just my guess). I also have not seen such 34-ok.

2Terem: I don’t think the automatic fuse adds to the safety of the hunt. According to the rules of conduct with a weapon: When meeting a person, the weapon must be UNLOADED! Therefore, a loaded weapon in a company is already a danger! And directly when you want, it can interfere - for example, if you need to quickly reload and fire a shot - the reflex of removing the fuse in the heat of excitement does not always work.

_________________
Teaching - learning the rules; experience - learning about exceptions.

This video shows how you can make a fuse easier on a TOZ-34 gun without turning on your own.

TOZ-34 - Soviet / Russian double-barreled hunting rifle of a light type with a low landing of barrels, pre.

This video shows the disassembly of the TOZ-34R gun mechanism and troubleshooting.

Repair TOZ 34, at home.

We eliminate tight triggers on the TOZ-34 gun with our own hands.

Hello Dear subscribers and not only! In this video I will show how I wash and clean the closed-type trigger. ATTENTION.

Elimination of one of the causes of misfires in TOZ 34. By making repair strikers at home.

replacing the spring in TOZ 34 is done quickly and easily, you do not need to disassemble anything: remove the butt, change the spring-hundred.

In this video, we will analyze the painful problem of the TOZ-34EP buttstock.

In this video I will tell you how to turn off the ejector on the toz 34.

Hello, tell me, the problem is that when the cartridges are locked in the chamber, the gun is locked very tightly and you have to forcefully push the flag with your finger?

Before loading cartridges, I usually insert the casings into the barrels and select them and calibrate them that are tight.

Dastin58 Thank you, I will drive the sleeves

Everything is clear, the reason is in the cartridges.

I use Dastin58 cartridges

There may be chambers of different sizes or grooves along the edge of the case, try another manufacturer's cartridges.

I have a problem with an accuracy of one turn, after the first shot the gun goes into safety

Try to bend the fuse spring rod to make the fuse tighter, usually you have to bend a little per revolution.

Thank you for your answer, how much will it cost?

Good afternoon, back to the question, can you really carve a fuse with a toz -34 button?

It's easier to look for a ready-made one on the Hansa.

Dastin58 button with full slider

Fuse button or completely?

Dastin58 thanks for the answer, how much will it cost?

Please tell me why you grind in the area of the holes, not solder on the safety spring itself? Can it be made flatter?

The safety spring is thin, it is better not to sharpen it.

it was easier to sharpen with a drill or drill

YOU GET COOL ROLLERS. JUST LOOKING PLEASANT.

Please tell me what could happen to the items if you shoot through the guard? On toz 34

The lever pin does not drive out. I don't want to hit hard, what can I do?

Try to knock on the other side, if it does not work, knock on harder, nothing will break there.

the spring is removed only in one of the positions of the mechanism, unfortunately I did not remember in which

removed the spring without removing the lever, simply pressing it in the area of the lever with a flat screwdriver, while the lever was released

Hello, a friend on TOZ-34 has very tight descents, especially the lower barrel, if it is possible to eliminate it, describe or show. Thanks in advance!

Thank you for the video! Made my toz even a little better!

Hello, such a problem, the fuse button is lost without a flask toz-34 with a button, I can’t find anywhere there is only such as uvas, if you put a thrust and a button, how can you put uvas?

Hi, it won't be easier for your gun to grind a new button.

what is the "fuse engine?" This is the "fuse" itself

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Video (click to play).

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Please share your impressions of the book and the sound quality.

Hunting and fishing in the South of Russia. Forum of hunters and fishermen

Message Berezin »23 Apr 2007, 13:16

DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY TOZ-34

7.1.1. Disassemble the rifle for cleaning and lubrication in the following sequence:

a) put the safety button in the extreme forward position;
b) release the triggers. For a smooth release of the hammers with open barrels, simultaneously press both triggers and slowly close the barrels and bring the locking lever to the axial position;
c) turn the flag down until it stops, move the locking lever to the right and separate the barrels from the box with a rotary motion.
Return the locking lever to its original position by pressing the front end of one of the cocking levers.

7.1.2. Dismantle the gun, if necessary, in the following sequence:

a) perform the above disassembly;
b) unscrew the screws 55 and 75, separate the forend cheeks 53 and 56 from the barrels;
c) unscrew the screw 37;
d) turn the trigger guard 38 by about 90 ° and remove the screws 40 and 50.
e) with light strokes of the screwdriver handle on the lower plane of the box, remove the front end of the base 49 from the groove of the box
f) separate the firing mechanism and the box from the stock by light tapping.

7.2.1. Assemble the gun in the reverse order:

a) pull out the ejector, and ejectors in the TOZ-34E gun, until it stops;
b) align the annular guides of the barrels and boxes (Fig. 4);
c) move the locking lever to the right and rotate the box with the barrels.

Rice. 4. Diagram of the assembly of barrels with a box

After combining the barrels with the box, the flag automatically returns to its original position when the gun is subsequently opened;
d) in case of a slight undershoot of the locking lever to the axial position, bring it by hand.

7.3. Disassembly and assembly of the remaining parts of the gun is carried out in case of emergency and only in the weapons workshop.

8. MAINTENANCE

The durability and trouble-free performance of a shotgun depends to a large extent on skillful and careful handling. The mechanisms of the gun should always be lubricated with a thin layer of gun grease.

8.1.1. To prepare the gun for shooting, remove grease from the outside of the gun and from the barrel bores.

8.1.2. The hunter must observe the following rules:

open the gun with smooth movements, holding the barrels with your hand;
do not make empty triggers; store the gun only with the triggers pulled down in order to avoid hooking the main springs;
monitor the cleanliness and serviceability of all parts of the gun; do not allow snow, earth, etc. to enter the trunks;
do not shoot from two barrels at the same time;
do not use cartridges that fit tightly into the chamber: they require great efforts when closing and opening the gun;
make sure that the fastening screws are securely tightened.

Inspect, clean and lubricate the rifle immediately after shooting and subsequently, if stored without use, at least once every three months.
Clean the barrel bore and chamber with a bristle brush with an alkaline solution until the powder carbon deposits are completely removed.
Remove lead deposits from the channels and chamber of the barrels with a fine steel or brass wire brush, generously greased with gun grease.
After cleaning the barrel bores and chambers, wipe dry and apply a thin layer of grease.
Wipe wood parts with a dry cloth.
Failure to follow the instructions for cleaning, lubricating and storing the rifle will result in corrosion damage to the surfaces of metal parts, including chrome-plated ones.
Shotguns in unsatisfactory condition due to improper care and storage will not be accepted for warranty service.

Thu, Nov. 20th, 2008, 01:05 pm
major_merkel : TOZ-34 minor repair

toz-34.
probably one of the most capricious Soviet breakthroughs produced in series.
so about the points:

1
a frequent oversight when replacing a stock, or trying to eliminate rolling:
due to the mechanism divided into two parts (upper and lower), that is, the hammers and triggers are located on the lower detachable platform. and the strikers and cocking rods directly in the rifle block - it is necessary to carefully pay attention to the tightening of the rear block fastening screw.

elimination of vertical swinging of the butt is best done with linings under the shank of the shoe, but the longitudinal stroke (which occurs when the front surfaces of the butt “fork” are creased) can be eliminated by smearing the ends with some kind of plastic glue until a sufficiently thick film appears (plexiglass, diluted in dichloroethane to a mushy mass, works well ).
I would also recommend that even on a new gun (without waiting until it cracks), the attachment point of the butt with a block to secure it with a pin screw, as shown in the photo.

(You can certainly not be so ugly, but what was it). a small nuance: when installing the screw, its location must be carefully calibrated so that when assembled, the cocked hammers do not touch it.

2
just in case, I will touch on the disassembly (separation of the trunks):
on older models without a flag (photo 1, top), disassembly is carried out with the hammers lowered by pressing the front trigger and pulling the upper lever to the right until it stops (further than with simple opening) of the upper lever, after which the barrels are “fractured” directly.
on newer models, a special uncoupler flag is introduced. when turning it down, the upper lever is also retracted to the stop and the trunks are separated.
there is only one nuance in the assembly - you need to pay attention to the ejectors (extractors). were nominated.

4
I will slightly touch on such a drawback as the mainsprings of a characteristic shape. There is nothing you can do about it, just a replacement, or annealing, straightening and reheating (I can’t say anything myself, I didn’t try it).

5
as a plus, it is worth noting the removable breech plate, which slightly complicates the design of the gun, but makes it possible to eliminate the rolling of the barrels with prolonged use. all business - cut out a lining of thin foil and put it under the plate.

I really had a big suspicion that sometimes guns come from the factory with a lining under the breech plate (if they failed the size when grinding), but unproven, I did not have to hold a guaranteed new gun with a gasket in my hands, although with gaskets very similar to factory ones (made by cutting stamp) met.
it would also be worth praising the ejector scheme of the TOZ-34e. in my opinion, a reliable and well-thought-out scheme, almost trouble-free, in comparison, for example, with the Izh-27e, where ejectors often pop out and get lost, and the transmission levers (on the forend) are bent when the forend is removed.
adjustment of ejectors (ejection force) is carried out by tightening the screws with a spring located under the forend.

Well, actually, lastly, I would again like to say and show nasty things.

my work allows me to keep some approximate statistics, at least for the Perm region. so. the overwhelming majority of barrels burst occurs precisely on toz-34 rifles.
Naturally, I do not take into account the old guns, rusty and not shot under nitro powder, where, as the saying goes, “God himself commanded”.
in this regard, I can only assume an initial error in the selection of steel or in heat treatment modes that do not provide the required margin of safety.

P.S This article is a summary of my personal experience in the repair of hunting weapons and was written not with the aim of denigrating the products of the Tula plant, but with the aim of helping the owners of the guns to make minor repairs on their own.
If you have objections or want to add something on the topic, write in comments, I will read it with pleasure or if I can answer your questions.
against using for any purpose with reference to me - I do not mind.

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Dipublikasikan tanggal 11 Agu 2017
This video shows how you can make the fuse easier on a TOZ-34 gun by yourself without going to the workshop.
toz-34er 12 gauge dastin58toz-34 togo fusetoz-34 remonttoz-34 dismantling-34 repair by own hands -34 fusetoz-34e obzortoz-34 or izh-27toz-34r

Hello, tell me, the problem is that when the cartridges are locked in the chamber, the gun is locked very tightly and you have to forcefully push the flag with your finger?

Before loading cartridges, I usually insert the casings into the barrels and select them and calibrate them that are tight.

Dastin58 Thank you, I will drive the sleeves

Everything is clear, the reason is in the cartridges.

I use Dastin58 cartridges

There may be chambers of different sizes or grooves along the edge of the case, try another manufacturer's cartridges.

I have a problem with an accuracy of one turn, after the first shot the gun goes into safety

Try to bend the fuse spring rod to make the fuse tighter, usually you have to bend a little per revolution.

Thank you for your answer, how much will it cost?

Good afternoon, back to the question, can you really carve a fuse with a toz -34 button?

It's easier to look for a ready-made one on the Hansa.

Dastin58 button with full slider

Fuse button or completely?

Dastin58 thanks for the answer, how much will it cost?

Please tell me why you grind in the area of the holes, not solder on the safety spring itself? Can it be made flatter?

The safety spring is thin, it is better not to sharpen it.

it was easier to sharpen with a drill or drill

YOU GET COOL ROLLERS. JUST LOOKING PLEASANT.

Please tell me what could happen to the items if you shoot through the guard? On toz 34

The lever pin does not drive out. I don't want to hit hard, what can I do?

Try to knock on the other side, if it does not work, knock on harder, nothing will break there.

the spring is removed only in one of the positions of the mechanism, unfortunately I did not remember in which

removed the spring without removing the lever, simply pressing it in the area of the lever with a flat screwdriver, while the lever was released

Hello, a friend on TOZ-34 has very tight descents, especially the lower barrel, if it is possible to eliminate it, describe or show. Thanks in advance!

Thank you for the video! Made my toz even a little better!

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Grade 3.2 who voted: 85