In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the 43101 device from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Device with automatic protection against electrical overloads Designed to measure current and voltage in sinusoidal DC and AC circuits, DC resistance, electrical capacitance and the relative level of DC voltage transmission.
The input resistance of the device is about 20 kOhm / V when measuring AC and DC voltages, and with a multiplier X2 10 kOhm / V. Working temperature -10. +40 ° С, relative air humidity 90% at temperature 30 * С,
The device employs a magnetoelectric measuring mechanism with a hv> trk-frame magnet on stretchers. The total deflection current is 29 μA, the resistance of the moving frame is 775 Ohm.
The device is powered from a built-in power supply consisting of three short-circuit type 316 elements.
The resistances of the resistors must correspond to the values indicated in the list of elements to the circuit diagram of the device (tab. one).
Rice. one... Electrical schematic diagram of the combined device 43101
You need to check the resistance.
_________________
Miracles do not happen!
There was a similar case
brought with the same diagnosis,
but it cost by replacing the feeding elements.
Check contacts, connections, etc. switches,
P2K tend to die completely suddenly.
_________________
Miracles do not happen!
Quite an adequate response, the op-amp is most likely serviceable.
There is a break somewhere, most likely in the input circuits.
_________________
Miracles do not happen!
_________________
Miracles do not happen!
We managed to decompose the scheme “into atoms”!
1. In the “kOhm” measurement mode, a plus from the battery is supplied to the XS1 (Kom, nF) terminal through the contacts “11-14” of the SA1.2 wafer box; to the second end of the measured resistor Rx (terminals V, A, mA, -kOm) a voltage divider is connected from which the measured value is taken. Current shunt resistors R1-R8, R23-R25 and additional resistors R9-R12, switched by switch SA1.1, are used as a divider.
2. In the “ohms” measurement mode, the same voltage, through contact “15” SA1.2, resistor R27 and contact “9” SA1.1, is applied to terminal XT2 (V, A, mA, -kOm). In parallel with the measured resistor, resistors of the same current shunts (R1-R5, R23) are connected.
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Video (click to play). |
In both the first and second cases, the measured value is fed to the input of the op-amp through the same resistors and contacts of switches SB2.2, SB2.3. And if only the “200 ohm” limit works, then the only conclusion suggests itself: the circuit from the SA1.2 switch to the XS1 input terminal (Kom, nF) is broken - this may be a microcrack on the foil or cold soldering on the terminal itself (in this case, not The capacitance measurement mode should also work! How is this situation?). Use another tester to check the voltage at terminals XS1 (kilo-ohms) and XT2 (200 ohms) relative to the “common” terminal XT1 (“*”) - this voltage should be equal to the voltage of the battery.
If there is any ambiguity, I can explain in more detail!
Successful renovation!
Is your TV, radio, mobile phone or kettle broken? And you want to create a new topic about this in this forum?
First of all, think about this: imagine that your father / son / brother has an appendicitis pain and you know from the symptoms that it is just appendicitis, but there is no experience of cutting it out, as well as the tool. And you turn on your computer, access the Internet on a medical site with the question: "Help to cut out appendicitis." Do you understand the absurdity of the whole situation? Even if they answer you, it is worth considering factors such as the patient's diabetes, allergies to anesthesia and other medical nuances. I think no one does this in real life and will risk trusting the life of their loved ones with advice from the Internet.
The same is in the repair of radio equipment, although of course these are all the material benefits of modern civilization and in case of unsuccessful repairs, you can always buy a new LCD TV, cell phone, iPAD or computer. And for the repair of such equipment, at least it is necessary to have the appropriate measuring (oscilloscope, multimeter, generator, etc.) and soldering equipment (hairdryer, SMD-hot tweezers, etc.), a schematic diagram, not to mention the necessary knowledge and repair experience.
Let's consider a situation if you are a beginner / advanced radio amateur soldering all sorts of electronic gizmos and having some of the necessary tools. You create an appropriate thread on the repair forum with a short description of “patient symptoms”, ie. for example “Samsung LE40R81B TV does not turn on”. So what? Yes, there can be a lot of reasons for not switching on - from malfunctions in the power system, problems with the processor or flashing firmware in the EEPROM memory.
More advanced users can find the blackened element on the board and attach a photo to the post. However, keep in mind that you are replacing this radio element with the same one - it is not yet a fact that your equipment will work. As a rule, something caused the combustion of this element and it could “pull” a couple of other elements along with it, not to mention the fact that it is quite difficult for a non-professional to find a burned-out m / s. Plus, in modern equipment, SMD radio elements are almost universally used, soldering which with an ESPN-40 soldering iron or a Chinese 60-Watt soldering iron you risk overheating the board, peeling tracks, etc. The subsequent restoration of which will be very, very problematic.
The purpose of this post is not any PR of repair shops, but I want to convey to you that sometimes self-repair can be more expensive than taking it to a professional workshop. Although, of course, this is your money and what is better or more risky is up to you.
If you nevertheless decide that you are able to independently repair the radio equipment, then when creating a post, be sure to indicate the full name of the device, modification, year of manufacture, country of origin and other detailed information. If there is a diagram, then attach it to the post or give a link to the source. Write down how long the symptoms have been manifesting, whether there were surges in the supply voltage network, whether there was a repair before that, what was done, what was checked, voltage measurements, oscillograms, etc. From a photo of a motherboard, as a rule, there is little sense, from a photo of a motherboard taken on a mobile phone there is no sense at all. Telepaths live in other forums.
Before creating a post, be sure to use the search on the forum and on the Internet. Read the relevant topics in the subsections, perhaps your problem is typical and has already been discussed. Be sure to read the article Repair strategy
The format of your post should be as follows:
Topics with the title “Help fix the Sony TV” with the content “broken” and a couple of blurred photos of the unscrewed back cover, taken with the 7th iPhone, at night, with a resolution of 8000x6000 pixels are immediately deleted. The more information you post about the breakdown, the more chances you will get a competent answer. Understand that the forum is a system of gratuitous mutual assistance in solving problems and if you are dismissive of writing your post and do not follow the above tips, then the answers to it will be appropriate, if anyone wants to answer at all. Also note that no one should answer instantly or within a day, say, no need to write after 2 hours “That no one can help”, etc. In this case, the topic will be deleted immediately.
You should make every effort to find a breakdown on your own before you get stumped and decide to go to the forum. If you outline the entire process of finding a breakdown in your topic, then the chance of getting help from a highly qualified specialist will be very great.
If you decide to take your broken equipment to the nearest workshop, but do not know where, then perhaps our online cartographic service will help you: workshops on the map (on the left, press all buttons except “Workshops”). You can leave and view user reviews for workshops.
For repairmen and workshops: you can add your services to the map. Find your object on the map from the satellite and click on it with the left mouse button. In the field “Object type:” do not forget to change to “Equipment repair”. Adding is absolutely free! All objects are checked and moderated. A discussion of the service is here.
I'm sorry - R7, not R10 - was wrong. Attached file (green resistance).
Thank you for instructions on how to use it. I got the device without a back cover, which I found on the Internet (description of the device - video clip), so I used it.
Added by (22.12.2016, 13:16)
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I have 2 diodes on the measuring head (they can be seen on the previously attached file 8643591), but in the manual in the photo, they are not absent.
Added by (22.12.2016, 13:30)
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I read the instructions. That's what I did. All my actions are confirmed by the file _4354-1-.docx in the first message. If it does not open, let me know - I will expose it in separate files.
Repair of combined
devices.
During the operation of the combined device, various malfunctions may occur due to both wear and tear and the structure of its
elements and incorrect operator actions.
*
The following malfunctions are possible:
- loss of conductivity of additional
resistors;
- loss of ac conductivity
resistor "Set. 0 ";
- violation of contacts in the place
connections of elements;
- burning or deformation of contacts
switches;
- open circuit in the universal shunt circuit;
- loss of conductivity of adjustable
resistors;
- open or short circuit of diodes
rectifier;
- breakage of stretch marks or frame winding
measuring mechanism.
Do not rush to open the device. You must first try to install
the possible cause of the malfunction, for which the values should be measured
on all measurement ranges, knowing the measured values or controlling each of them with another device. Then,
using the data in the table of typical malfunctions of combined devices
and their reasons, a schematic diagram and a map of electrical circuits
for a specific device, identify suspected defective items, or
section of the chain based on the specific situation.
Design and support:
Aleksandr Kuznetsov
Technical support: Mikhail Bulakh
Programming: Danil Monchukin
Marketing: Tatiana Anastasyeva
Translation: Natalia Kuznetsova
When using materials from the site, a link to https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3265 is required
made in Ukraine
Free technical library
In our Free technical library you can download for free and without registration
Repair of the combined instrument 43101, 2005 article from Radio magazine.
In the search results, write down the name of the journal, year and number. Then click on the link “download in the Free Technical Library”And download the archive with the number you need for free.
Full title of the article and additional information:
Martynchuk, P. Repair of the combined device 43101. TOPIC: Radio electronics / General radio engineering. DESCRIBED: electrical measuring devices, electrical measuring devices, measurements, repair of devices, protection microcircuits, schematic diagrams, schematic diagrams. ABSTRACT: If the procedure for working with such a device is violated, by inadvertently measuring the mains voltage in the mode of an ohmmeter or ammeter, the circuit breaker turns off the device. However, it is not uncommon for shunt resistors, an electronic converter, or a hybrid circuit breaker amplifier chip to fail and the device needs to be repaired. Replacing this microcircuit complicates the repair, since it is no longer produced at present. Therefore, the author recommends making a module made according to the same scheme, but on discrete elements.
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It is quite within the power of every user who is well acquainted with the basics of electronics and electrical engineering to independently organize and repair the multimeter. But before embarking on such a repair, you must try to figure out the nature of the damage that has occurred.
It is most convenient to check the serviceability of the device at the initial stage of repair by inspecting its electronic circuit. For this case, the following troubleshooting rules have been developed:
- it is necessary to carefully examine the printed circuit board of the multimeter, on which there may be clearly distinguishable factory defects and errors;
- special attention should be paid to the presence of unwanted short circuits and poor-quality soldering, as well as defects on the terminals at the edges of the board (in the area of the display connection). For repairs, you will have to use soldering;
- factory errors most often manifest themselves in the fact that the multimeter does not show what it should according to the instructions, and therefore its display is examined first of all.
If the multimeter gives incorrect readings in all modes and IC1 heats up, then you need to inspect the connectors to check the transistors. If the long leads are closed, then the repair will consist only in opening them.
In total, a sufficient number of visually detectable faults can accumulate. You can familiarize yourself with some of them in the table and then eliminate it yourself. (to the address: Before repairing, it is necessary to study the multimeter circuits, which are usually given in the passport.
If they want to check the serviceability and repair the multimeter indicator, then they usually resort to using an additional device that produces a signal of a suitable frequency and amplitude (50-60 Hz and units of volts). In its absence, you can use a multimeter type M832 with the function of generating rectangular pulses (meander).
To diagnose and repair the multimeter display, it is necessary to remove the working board from the device case and select a position convenient for checking the indicator contacts (screen up). After that, you should connect the end of one probe to the common terminal of the indicator under investigation (it is located in the bottom row, the far left), and alternately touch the other end to the signal outputs of the display. In this case, all of its segments should light up one after the other according to the wiring of the signal buses, which should be read separately.Normal "operation" of the tested segments in all modes indicates that the display is working properly.
Additional Information. This malfunction most often manifests itself during the operation of a digital multimeter, in which its measuring part fails and needs to be repaired extremely rarely (provided that the instructions are followed).
The last remark concerns only constant values, when measuring which the multimeter is well protected against overloads. Serious difficulties in identifying the reasons for the failure of the device are most often encountered when determining the resistances of the circuit section and in the dialing mode.
In this mode, typical malfunctions, as a rule, appear in the measuring ranges up to 200 and up to 2000 Ohm. When an extraneous voltage enters the input, as a rule, resistors under the designations R5, R6, R10, R18 burn out, as well as the transistor Q1. In addition, the capacitor C6 often breaks through. The consequences of exposure to extraneous potential are manifested as follows:
- when the Q1 triode is completely "burnt out", when determining the resistance, the multimeter shows one zeros;
- in case of incomplete breakdown of the transistor, the device with open ends should show the resistance of its junction.
Note! In other measurement modes, this transistor is short-circuited and therefore has no effect on the display.
With a breakdown of C6, the multimeter will not work at the measuring limits of 20, 200 and 1000 Volts (the option of a strong understatement of the reading is not excluded).
If the multimeter constantly beeps when dialing or is silent, then the reason may be poor-quality soldering of the pins of IC2. The repair consists in careful soldering.
Inspection and repair of an inoperative multimeter, the malfunction of which is not related to the cases already considered, is recommended to start with checking the voltage of 3 Volts on the ADC supply bus. In this case, first of all, it is necessary to make sure that there is no breakdown between the supply terminal and the common terminal of the converter.
The disappearance of indication elements on the display screen in the presence of a supply voltage converter with a high degree of probability indicates damage to its circuit. The same conclusion can be made when a significant number of circuit elements located near the ADC are burned out.
Important! In practice, this node "burns out" only when a sufficiently high voltage (more than 220 Volts) hits its input, which manifests itself visually in the form of cracks in the module compound.
Before talking about repairs, you need to check. A simple way to test the ADC for suitability for further operation is to dial its terminals using a known working multimeter of the same class. Note that the case when the second multimeter incorrectly shows the measurement results is not suitable for such a check.
When preparing for operation, the device is switched to the diode “dialing” mode, and the measuring end of the wire in red insulation is connected to the “minus power” output of the microcircuit. Following this black probe, each of its signal legs is sequentially touched. Since there are protective diodes at the inputs of the circuit, connected in the opposite direction, after applying a forward voltage from a third-party multimeter, they should open.
The fact of their opening is recorded on the display in the form of a voltage drop across the junction of the semiconductor element. Similarly, the circuit is checked when a probe in black insulation is connected to pin 1 (+ ADC power supply), followed by touching all other pins. In this case, the indications on the display screen should be the same as in the first case.
