DIY Canon pixma ip1000 printer repair

Found a power supply diagram for Canon Pixma IP1000 and a variant of its alteration:

I still had only one diode showing a short circuit, and I, in fact, was surprised too. The original diodes were D6F, similar in parameters, as UAM said (thanks.).
On his advice, I immediately began to select analogs - it seems like KD243E or F are suitable, with a current of 1A and a voltage of 400V. True, there were no such at hand, I found RL205 in a dead power supply unit - they are for a current of 2A and a voltage of 600V - I put it on, it worked.

IP 1000 prints “no printhead installed”, the printer LED flashes 10 times. How to solve the problem?

The trouble happened to me with mine and I just don't understand why? I typed normally, only a suspicious knock like a PG knocking on the body, it happened after I bathed diapers (absorbers)! When I collected it, I realized that the irreparable had happened. Druzhban says that this is nothing terrible. here, and a week later, my CANON IP 1000 printer began to print with invisible ink (the sound of printing is present, and the leaf comes out clean as snow).
What could be wrong with him? Tell me kind people. Thanks in advance!
P.S. The cartridge is full, (even bought a new one for a full guarantee!)

people tell me what can be done if all colors print except yellow. Cleaning that is simple, that deep does not help. I washed the print head in warm water and alcohol-containing liquid, but none of this helped. Can the printhead be repaired? if so, in what way? or where to buy a print head from the Canon_ip_1000 printer

Repair of computers, laptops, inkjet printers onsite to the customer. Kiev and suburbs.

telephones:

(096)934-75-37

(099)199-11-52

(063)88-44-248

Measure with a micrometer. Mark with chalk. Chop off with an ax.

Once I got my hands on a unit called Canon iP 1000, which I claim is completely inoperative. However, as the well-known personage said, I am tormented by vague doubts. And, rolling up his sleeves, he began to deal with this device.

When turning on and carrying out diagnostics, two unpleasant problems emerged:

1. Abnormal temperature rise (overheating of the print head) - 8 winks the indicator is yellow-green, with a long green light that separates a series of flashes;

2. The print head is not installed or the print head is not suitable for this printer model - 5 winks indicator yellow, with a continuous green glow separating a series of flashes

Having collected all the knowledge, I came to the conclusion that the problem is in the print head, respectively, and we will fix it. Further point by point:

1. We take out the cartridges and we see the steam generator, to remove it we lift the latch up.

rice. 3 levers for removing steam generator gray, rises up

2. Eliminate the first error, as you know, overheating of the gas generator occurs in 99% of cases due to the fact that the steam generator nozzles are clogged with dried paint. To eliminate this problem, we take the actual steam generator, a shallow container into which we fill in the flushing liquid and a syringe with the same liquid.

rice. 4 PGs in flushing fluid.

3. We immerse the steam generator in the flushing liquid and drip the flushing liquid onto the filters using a syringe from above. The dripping did not help me, and therefore without suffering, I just poured the flushing liquid into the cartridge compartment.

rice. 5 Fully flooded SG

4. All this lay for about five hours. Then he removed the steam generator from the liquid, dried it and, having prayed, inserted the cartridges and sent it to the printer, the first error was completely eliminated

5.I figured out the second error even easier, it was just necessary to wipe it with alcohol (an option with a double-sided Chinese eraser

) contacts of the print head. the error disappeared once and for all.

ZY These manipulations can be carried out with any Canon printers with separate PG.

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    Dismantling printers Canon i250-355 and iP1000
    The i250-355 and iP1000 printers are identical in design and differ only in the color of the body, side plates and size (the iP1000 is slightly wider). They use the same printheads (QY6-0044) and many of the mechanical parts of these printers are interchangeable.
    Disassembling these printers for repair and maintenance is very simple and accessible to almost anyone who knows which side to take a screwdriver on.
    Let's take a look at the disassembly process using the iP1000 as an example:

    For disassembly you will need: Phillips screwdriver, small flat-blade screwdriver and tweezers.

    Actually, the carriage with a train and the mechanism for moving the carriage remain on the bed. There is nothing special to break there, so there is no need to further disassemble this part.
    The only thing that happens to this unit is that the belt stretches from time to time and in the extreme positions of the carriage it starts to slip on the engine gear, while a strong crack is heard, but this is “treated” without removing the bed - only the upper part of the case is removed. To get rid of the crackle, you need to remove the belt tension roller - squeeze it with a screwdriver, like a lever, to the center of the printer, remove the belt, remove the roller and either stretch the roller spring with your hands, or choose a harder spring instead, or put one or two M3 washers under the spring ...
    

    
    The need to change / repair the carriage, or the motor for moving the carriage happens so rarely that most likely you will not have the opportunity to taste this “joy”.

    We release the gearbox, for this we unscrew the four self-tapping screws indicated by the arrows, but before removing the gearbox from the pallet, it is more convenient to remove the parking unit (in any case, if you have already reached this place, it is advisable to wash the parking unit and lubricate the guides along which it slides) ...
    For some printer models, the fourth (rightmost in the photo) self-tapping screw is not installed, so if your printer does not have one, do not worry, this is normal.
    

    
    
    To remove the parking unit, it is necessary to move it to the right until it stops - so that the protrusions on the nearest part of the parking area align with the slots (indicated by the arrows) in the pallet.
    Raise the far side and pull out / upward until the near edge is free. Disconnect the springs and the pipes going to the pump (there is an adapter on the black tube, in the middle - it is more convenient to disconnect it in this place, and simply remove the color tube from the fitting on the bottom of the platform).
    In more detail, the design of the parking unit and the process of its installation in place is discussed here.
    

    Front and bottom view of the gearbox.
    

    
    
    The gearbox consists of two parts, which are fastened with one self-tapping screw:
    the left (in the second photo) part is the paper feed mechanism and the right part is the pump.
    
    
    There is information about the design and assembly / disassembly of the pump in this forum thread. In models of printers and MFPs with a similar design of the gearbox, there are sometimes cases when, due to clogging of the pump tubes, the pump mechanism pulls the tubes into itself, tearing them off the parking unit fittings, and of course the pump wedges - in this case, you cannot do without disassembling the pump.

    Printers that have been in operation for a long time often have a malfunction, which is manifested by the crackling of the gears when turning the mechanics and the fact that a sheet of paper usually does not come out of the printer completely. If you take a closer look, you can see that during the operation of the mechanics, the lower black shaft at the exit from the printer does not rotate (or rotates jerkily, with a bang). In especially bad cases, this shaft simply falls out of the printer. This is usually due to wear on the stop (indicated by the arrow), which is supposed to keep the shaft from shifting to the right.

    • 

    Is your TV, radio, mobile phone or kettle broken? And you want to create a new topic about this in this forum?

    First of all, think about this: imagine that your father / son / brother has an appendicitis pain and you know from the symptoms that it is just appendicitis, but there is no experience of cutting it out, as well as the tool. And you turn on your computer, access the Internet on a medical site with the question: "Help to cut out appendicitis." Do you understand the absurdity of the whole situation? Even if they answer you, it is worth considering factors such as the patient's diabetes, allergies to anesthesia and other medical nuances.I think no one does this in real life and will risk trusting the life of their loved ones with advice from the Internet.

    The same is in the repair of radio equipment, although of course these are all the material benefits of modern civilization and in case of unsuccessful repairs, you can always buy a new LCD TV, cell phone, iPAD or computer. And for the repair of such equipment, at least it is necessary to have the appropriate measuring (oscilloscope, multimeter, generator, etc.) and soldering equipment (hairdryer, SMD-hot tweezers, etc.), a schematic diagram, not to mention the necessary knowledge and repair experience.

    Let's consider the situation if you are a beginner / advanced radio amateur who solders all sorts of electronic gizmos and has some of the necessary tools. You create an appropriate thread on the repair forum with a short description of “patient symptoms”, ie. for example “Samsung LE40R81B TV does not turn on”. So what? Yes, there can be a lot of reasons for not switching on - from malfunctions in the power system, problems with the processor or flashing firmware in the EEPROM memory.
    More advanced users can find the blackened element on the board and attach a photo to the post. However, keep in mind that you replace this radio element with the same one - it is not a fact that your equipment will work. As a rule, something caused the combustion of this element and it could “pull” a couple of other elements along with it, not to mention the fact that it is quite difficult for a non-professional to find a burned-out m / s. Plus, in modern equipment, SMD radio elements are almost universally used, soldering which with an ESPN-40 soldering iron or a Chinese 60-Watt soldering iron you risk overheating the board, peeling tracks, etc. The subsequent restoration of which will be very, very problematic.

    The purpose of this post is not any PR of repair shops, but I want to convey to you that sometimes self-repair can be more expensive than taking it to a professional workshop. Although, of course, this is your money and what is better or more risky is up to you.

    If you nevertheless decide that you are able to repair the radio equipment on your own, then when creating a post, be sure to indicate the full name of the device, modification, year of manufacture, country of origin and other detailed information. If there is a diagram, then attach it to the post or give a link to the source. Write down how long the symptoms have been manifesting, whether there were surges in the supply voltage network, whether there was a repair before that, what was done, what was checked, voltage measurements, oscillograms, etc. From a photo of a motherboard, as a rule, there is little sense, from a photo of a motherboard taken on a mobile phone there is no sense at all. Telepaths live in other forums.
    Before creating a post, be sure to use the search on the forum and on the Internet. Read the relevant topics in the subsections, perhaps your problem is typical and has already been discussed. Be sure to read the article Repair strategy

    The format of your post should be as follows:

    Topics with the title “Help fix the Sony TV” with the content “broken” and a couple of blurred photos of the unscrewed back cover, taken with the 7th iPhone, at night, with a resolution of 8000x6000 pixels are immediately deleted. The more information you post about the breakdown, the more chances you will get a competent answer. Understand that the forum is a system of gratuitous mutual assistance in solving problems and if you are dismissive of writing your post and do not follow the above tips, then the answers to it will be appropriate, if anyone wants to answer at all. Also keep in mind that no one should answer instantly or during, say, a day, no need to write after 2 hours “That no one can help”, etc. In this case, the topic will be deleted immediately.
    You should make every effort to find a breakdown on your own before you get stumped and decide to go to the forum. If you outline the entire process of finding a breakdown in your topic, then the chance of getting help from a highly qualified specialist will be very great.

    If you decide to take your broken equipment to the nearest workshop, but do not know where, then perhaps our online cartographic service will help you: workshops on the map (on the left, press all buttons except “Workshops”). You can leave and view user reviews for workshops.

    For repairmen and workshops: you can add your services to the map. Find your object on the map from the satellite and click on it with the left mouse button. In the field “Object type:” do not forget to change to “Equipment repair”. Adding is absolutely free! All objects are checked and moderated. A discussion of the service is here.

    Hello! In general, the problem is this: I disassembled the printer to rinse the diapers, I did everything, but while the printer was on the floor, someone accidentally kicked it, as a result, a part was separated from the part called the mouth guard (or parking space) (photo below). as I didn’t try, I couldn’t figure out how to attach it correctly and where. I really look forward to your answers, tk. the printer is badly needed in the coming days. if it's easy to explain where to insert, or even better, put a photo if you have the same printer

    1.the part that fell off, there are still 2 small springs
    2.the mouthpiece itself

    Well, the spring one under the cap holds it, and the other is not in the photo, where can you stick it?

    and I still can't understand what it means in front, what kind of landmark can I take?)

    A short spring is attached at one end to the bottom of the printer (under the mouth guard), with the other end to the bottom of the mouth guard. Long spring with one end to the L-shaped lever, the other to the ledge on the bottom.

    I have an IP1000 printer, I have been using it for a long time, I refueled everything, but I saw how the CISS works and decided to do it myself.

    CISS for my printer cost as much as half the printer. And so I decided to make a homemade CISS - WITHsystem Ncontinuous Pfeed Hblackened. Moreover, the Internet is full of material. I found a lot of useful information on the site in the section on siss.

    In general, the task was divided into the following points:

    1. Making a loop.
    2. Making homemade donors for CISS - i.e. ink tank
    3. Connecting an external reservoir for waste ink - this is not necessary for CISS, because I decided to install it, so I will print a lot, and the "pampers" of the printer will quickly fill up and have to be disassembled. And since It is better not to touch the CISS once again, then I decided to make a durable solution.
    4. Alteration of cartridges for CISS
    5. Preparing the print head - because the head striped a little, it was necessary to rinse it, for such a big deal.
    6. Laying the loop
    7. Refueling donors
    8. System bleeding

    First, I wanted to try making a train from IV tubing, as recommended in the article Making High Quality Multi-Channel PVC Tube Train at Home.

    I even bought droppers, but in the first I did not find a PVC solvent, in the second the tubes were a little thick. And thirdly, I found a factory 4-channel 1 meter ribbon cable at our local Indicator computer store. And it cost only 25 UAH.

    

    

    2. Making homemade donors for CISS.

    Donors turned out like this:

    3.Connection of the external waste ink reservoir.

    4.Reworking cartridges for CISS

    First, I tried to transfer the cartridges from the original ones with disassembly. But after that I did not manage to return them sufficient tightness.

    Because of this, they let air through and the ink flowed back to the donor.

    On the second attempt, I have already used non-original Jet-Tec cartridges, but this time without disassembly. Therefore, in some photographs there will be gray cartridges first, and then black ones.

    5.Preparation of the print head

    The head stripped and I decided to rinse it. At first I tried to bury the nozzles as recommended in the article “Flushing Canon Head. Part 4. "

    But then I got tired of it and I soaked the head in flushing liquid, as recommended in the article “Flushing Canon Head. Part 1."

    I laid the ribbon cable in such a way that the ink ribbon would not interfere with the data cable. True, for this I had to file a little, undercut and make holes ...

    For refueling donors, I prepared special syringes and modified them a little.

    After refueling, the system must be pumped by removing air from the loop and cartridges.

    DIY printer repair - what you can do at hometo save money on calling a master or sending a printing device to a service center? Not all problems can be solved on your own, but there are things that you can diagnose yourself. However, do not forget that a serious malfunction can be identified and corrected exclusively by the hands of a specialist with extensive experience and specialized tools for carrying out the corresponding work. Repair of printers by service center engineers YauzaOrgService guarantees high quality and speed of service delivery without overpayments. But what will it be possible to reveal at home?

    • The most common cause of printer breakdown, whether Canon, HP, Epson, Oki, Samsung, Ricoh, Brother or Xerox, is to clean the machine irregularly. In simple words, it is dirt. It often leads to imbalance of the case, noise appears during operation, or paper picking stops. That is why it is recommended to clean the printing device at regular intervals and only when the equipment is off. But you need to know about the prohibition of the use of alcohol - for wiping we take only ordinary distilled water, a new sponge and cotton swabs.

    • We check the correctness of operation: the printer must be plugged in, the tray is pushed in firmly to the very end, the sheet guides are set, the cartridges are correctly installed and there is no jam of foreign objects in the machine.

    • Do not be afraid to inspect the inside of the equipment for paper debris or scraps, toner spills, plaster, sand, or water.

    • Check the cartridge is full, if it has run out.

    • If printer malfunctions are displayed as errors on the computer monitor, be sure to write down the code, number, or information on the screen for transmission to the wizard.

    • Pay attention to the print quality of documents, whether there are additional streaks or spots, what color they are.

    • Track the frequency of paper chewing.

    • Listen for extraneous sounds, crackles, noises when printing.

    Having considered all the above nuances, which often lead to the stoppage of the printer's functioning, you can speed up the process of correcting a malfunction, replace the repair procedure with preventive maintenance and save money on a specialist visit. Evaluation of the state of the equipment operability, the exact formulation of the problem and the listing of the problems that have appeared will allow the foreman to react to the request as quickly as possible, since he will present the amount of work in advance. If this is not a serious breakdown and the situation allows you to repair parts, replace components or restore work quickly - printer repair can be carried out even at the diagnostic stage. By calling the phone number or sending an application through the website YauzaOrgService - assistance will be provided with the provision of a guarantee for all types of operations and services performed.

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    Most likely, your head is out of order (thermoelements have burned out or nozzles have corroded) - in this case, the head only needs to be changed .. But before changing, try to rinse the head again following the instructions below
    a prepared workplace, for example, a table covered with newspaper to protect it from ink, which no matter how hard you try, it will still end up where it is not needed;
    medical (surgical gloves), of course, not necessary, if you are not afraid to get dirty with ink;
    a few napkins or at least toilet paper;
    the print head itself;
    syringe 20-50 ml;
    a plastic cover or any other container convenient for soaking the print head in it;
    flushing fluid - Mister Muscle blue or distilled water (you can buy liquid for injection at the pharmacy).

    That's all.
    Flushing process

    1. Fill approximately half of the cap with flushing fluid. Remove the printhead from the printer, dip it in the liquid and fix so that the entire bottom of the head is submerged in the liquid. Use a syringe to apply flushing fluid to all ink nipples to prevent drying out. Leave the head to rinse for 3-4 hours.
    2. Place a rubber adapter on each fitting in turn (you can take any suitable rubber tube or use rubber parts from blood transfusion systems that are sold in every pharmacy).
    Draw the flushing liquid into the syringe and with little force try to push the flush through the head. If the liquid goes badly or does not go at all, try the other way around - pull it towards you, as if sucking the contents of the print head into a syringe. After a few strokes back and forth - again leave the head rinsing.

    For the largest fitting (pigment channel), PVC tubing (sold in any market) can be used.
    3. The printhead should remain in the flush until you are sure that all channels are clear and flush fluid flows freely in any direction.

    4. Install the printhead and original cartridges in the printer and verify that the print is of excellent quality. In some cases it is necessary to let the printer sit for a few hours and repeat the test print.

    5. If the printout is unsatisfactory, there may be several reasons:
    - ink quality (therefore, we recommend testing on original cartridges);
    - the print head of the printer is not washed well enough (it is necessary to repeat the washing);
    - the head is out of order (thermoelements have burned out or the nozzles have corroded) - in this case, the head only needs to be changed.

    Alexander Alexandrovich » 10:21 – 14.07.05

    Adamaster » 23:56 – 15.07.05

    VIRGO » 18:17 – 15.12.05

    Bumer » 08:08 – 05.02.06

    CANON PIXMA iP2000
    With the machine turned off (but plug in the power cord), press and hold the PAPER FEED.
    Press and hold the POWER SUPPLY - the green indicator will light up.
    While keeping the MAINS pressed, release FEED and then press FEED twice. Each time FEED is pressed, the indicator color changes between orange and green
    Release all buttons.
    NETWORK blinks during printer initialization. After the MAINS lights up continuously green, you can enter the service commands (functions) using the SUPPLY button according to the table. Each time FEED is pressed, the indicator color changes between orange and green.

    Reset absorber counter (press four times)

    NETWORK blinks during printer initialization. After the MAINS lights up continuously green, you can enter the service commands (functions) using the SUPPLY button according to the table. Each time FEED is pressed, the indicator color changes between orange and green.
    After finishing entering commands, press the NETWORK button to execute them.

    And then the printer is reset to zero

    Ivanoff » 02:41 – 06.02.06

    Pixman » 12:01 – 25.02.06

    Resetting the pampers in Canon IP1000
    (LED green / yellow flashes seven times)
    1. Unplug the printer from the network
    2. Press and hold POWER
    3. Insert the plug
    4. Press 1 time (the number of times does not make a difference) RESUME.
    5. Let's release POWER /
    6. Turn on the printer by pressing POWER.

    All temporary reset procedure has passed.

    angel 13 » 21:29 – 30.05.06

    sopar » 22:22 – 30.05.06

    An » 11:28 – 03.06.06

    LESHIK » 08:29 – 10.06.06

    Gvg » 09:20 – 10.06.06

    a guest » 16:21 – 11.06.06

    a guest » 16:23 – 11.06.06

    DB » 13:58 – 15.10.06

    Slv01 » 19:36 – 15.10.06

    Denis83 » 18:44 – 25.12.09

    CAT » 14:49 – 28.12.09

    Benjamin » 14:48 – 29.12.09

    flax » 11:22 – 29.01.11

    Joshua » 12:06 – 29.01.11

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    Repair of the multifunction printer of the CANON PIXMA IP1000 printer

    CANON PIXMA IP1000 printer service and repair in Moscow and the region.

    Repair of the CANON PIXMA IP1000 printer

    CANON PIXMA IP1000 printer broken?
    There is a solution!
    It often happens that the printer stops working properly and starts printing poorly, or not printing at all. What to do in this case?
    You need the help of a professional technician, knowledgeable in his field, who will diagnose and repair your CANON PIXMA IP1000 printer.
    Our technical center deals with just such breakdowns. We will make your CANON PIXMA IP1000 printer working as soon as possible. Just dial and contact us!
    Maintenance of CANON PIXMA IP1000 printer
    The procedure for diagnostics and repair of the CANON PIXMA IP1000 printer
    Canon printer service includes replacement of only quality parts from the manufacturer.

    Quite often, Canon inkjet printers and MFPs have a situation where, when trying to print something, either several sheets of paper are grabbed, or vice versa - the paper is not grabbed. At the same time, all the mechanics seem to work out normally, the paper feed tray correctly feeds the paper to the pickup roller.
    In such cases, paper jams are common (mainly due to multiple feeds at the same time or insufficient paper feed / feed speed).

    Most often, this situation occurs due to the fact that the axis of the paper feed roller breaks - this can be checked by moving the roller by hand: a significant roller play is noticeable. The roller is generally not very rigidly fixed, and even in its normal state there should be a slight backlash in the horizontal direction; but in case of axle breakage, significant vertical backlash is noticeable.
    You can see the process of picking up the paper: at the moment when the input tray presses the paper against the roller, its strong displacement inside the machine is noticeable.

    The actual repair of the roller is not too difficult: it is necessary to restore the broken axle, which can be done in various ways.
    Considerably more questions (judging by the discussions of this issue in various forums and conferences) are caused by the disassembly of the devices themselves in order to get to this video.

    I will try to facilitate your work on restoring the equipment to work; we will talk about Canon Pixma iP 1200, 1300, 1600, 1700, 1800, 2200, 2500, 3300 printers and MP150, 160, 170, 180 MFPs (I have not encountered this malfunction on other devices).

    Let's consider an example Canon Pixma iP 3300, as the most inconvenient to disassemble.

    How to disassemble other printers from the above - see the materials on the links at the end of this article.

    First, remove the side covers. To do this, you need to release the latches from below by pressing them (through the holes in the printer's pallet) and pulling the bottom of the cover away from the body.

    Then, pushing the lower part of the lid, press on the upper part of the lid (from top to bottom) to remove it from the hooks that hold it to the upper part of the case, while simultaneously moving the lid down and to the side.

    Next, remove the front pads. They are easier to remove when the latches on the front of the printer are released.

    Use a thin screwdriver to release the latch 1. Then pry the latch 2 from the inside and move this part of the cover towards you (more than 3-4 mm, it will not move). After that, insert a thin screwdriver into the gap between the cover and body 3 (at the right cover, the screwdriver is inserted above the power button), and, pressing the cover down, pull the outer edge of the cover, trying to leave the inner part in place.
    When the pad is released (excluding the inner part), the outer part of the pad must be tilted downward to free the inner part.
    Look carefully at how it holds on to the body - you will have to assemble it in the reverse order.

    We release the case latches - two on each side and three on the back; remove the printer case.

    Now you can see the broken axle of the paper feed roller.

    To make it easier to remove the broken roller for repair, you need to remove the "bracket", which included the broken axle.
    From the front side, unscrew the self-tapping screw that secures the “bracket” to the frame; pressing the latch and sliding it to the left, take it out.

    Further, it is advisable to remove the sensor, because when bending the latches that hold the roller, the tool may slip and damage the optocoupler of the sensor.

    The roller is held in place by two latches. We squeeze the latches while pulling out the roller.

    Canon i250-355 and Canon iP1000 are the same in design, differing in body color, as well as side covers and external dimensions (Canon iP1000 will be wider). These printers have identical PG printheads, and many other mechanical parts of these Canon printers are interchangeable.

    It is very easy and affordable to disassemble these printers for repair and maintenance.

    Next, we will describe the disassembly process itself using the example of a Canon ip 1000 printer:

    To disassemble this printer, we need:

    • Small flat-blade screwdriver
    • Crosshead screwdriver
    • Tweezers.

    Remove the side covers from the very beginning

    Press the two latches located at the bottom of each side cover from bottom to top, and then move the bottom of the cover away from the body, while freeing the upper parts of the covers.

    Then remove the front cover.

    To do this, you need to use a thin screwdriver to squeeze one side of the cover, this is done in order to remove it from the axis, while the other side will come off easily. In theory, it is not necessary to remove this cover, but it is very convenient for the process.

    Unscrew the 2 self-tapping screws at the front of the Canon ip 1000 printer

    Release the two latches on the back of the printer.

    To do this, insert a flat thin screwdriver into the slots between the upper and lower parts of the case, namely in the places indicated by the arrows in the photo, and then press the upper part of the case towards you - upwards.
    after you have released the latches, you must remove the upper part of the case.

    Remove the tray (feed) plate

    With a thin screwdriver, press the top left side of the plate towards the middle. This is done so that the left side of the axle comes out of the hole in the housing. And when you move the left side of the plate in the upward-forward direction, or rather to the front of the printer, then release the right side of the axis in the same way.

    When you remove the plate, look at how the spring is standing, pushing the bottom of the plate forward. And when assembling directly, you must remember to put it in its original place.

    Remove the USB cover and disconnect the connector with the wires from the control board that go to the sensor. This sensor is located on the gearbox.

    Disconnect the carriage ribbon cable. disconnect all connectors from the control board. Thus, unscrew the 3 screws and remove the board. Peel off the adhesive tape that sticks the wires to the printer frame, and also do not forget to put the board with wires to the side so that it does not interfere with work.

    Next, release the side parts belonging to the printer bed, thereby unscrewing the self-tapping screw on the right side. Do the same on the left side, unscrewing the self-tapping screw and screw. the bottom screw (shown in the photo), besides the bed itself, is intended to secure another side of the main engine of the printer. Therefore, do not forget to tighten it when assembling, otherwise the engine will quickly become loose. Thereby, causing the printer to crack and there will be grinding of the teeth on the gear of the main drive motor.

    Then, loosen the screw that secures the bracket that holds the left side of the paper feed roller.

    Then it will remove the spring, and move the bracket slightly to the right, thereby freeing the right feed roller axis (rear view).

    It is not necessary to completely remove the bracket, but when assembling, remember that it must be in its place. It often happens when the bracket falls out, moving the printer bed from place to place. It is possible to put this bracket in place only on the removed bed.

    We advise you to fix the white pressure plate in exactly the position shown in the photo (in this case, you need to insert something from the back between the back of the plate and the bed), this is necessary so that its very rear part does not rise when the bed is removed. if, nevertheless, this situation has arisen, then there is a possibility of springs falling out, which press down the front part of the plate. In this case, the plate itself may fall out.

    Unscrew the 3 self-tapping screws, thanks to which the printer frame is attached to the pallet, and then remove it to the side.

    So, on the bed itself, there is a carriage movement mechanism and a carriage with a train.

    It is worth pointing out what is happening with this node. From time to time, the belt stretches and at the same time begins to slip on the engine gear in the extreme positions of the carriage. In this situation, a strong crack is heard, but this can be avoided without removing the bed, but just need to remove the upper part of the housing.

    We get rid of cod. Remove the belt tension roller by pressing it with a screwdriver, as when using a lever, to the very center of your printer. Remove the belt, then remove the roller, and then try to choose a spring that will be more rigid instead of it. Or place 1.2 M3 washers under this spring.

    Then release the gearbox.

    To do this, unscrew 4 self-tapping screws (indicated by the arrows in the photo), but at the same time, before you pull the gearbox out of the pallet, remove the parking unit in advance for convenience.

    To remove the parking unit, it is necessary that you slide it all the way to the right. So that on the near part of the parking area, the protrusions are aligned with the slots (indicated by the arrows in the photograph) in the pallet.

    Video (click to play).

    Lift the distal part and take out in the direction from you-upward until the near edge is free. Then disconnect the springs, as well as the tubes that go to the pump (the tube is black, the adapter is located on it in the very center, and it is in this place that it is more convenient, and remove the tube at the bottom of the platform from the fitting).

    

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