In detail: do-it-yourself canon pixma ip1500 printer repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Good day, colleagues!
Canon PIXMA iP 1500 was brought for repair - the client was strong, pulled a jammed sheet of paper and pulled out a double gear from the mount (it is located at the very bottom of the paper feed unit, above the diapers). I returned the gear to its place, but the printer still gives a paper jam error. I looked through all optosensors - in order. I am confused by the largest gear - it is somewhat reminiscent of similar “programmable” gears in video cameras - maybe you need to put everything in a certain position?
Please tell me, I'm not strong in mechanics :o(
Thanks a lot in advance !
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An old but reliable and easy-to-manage and maintain printer. I served for about 6 years.
The cartridges in this printer are simple, without chips, they are refilled very easily by dripping ink onto absorbent material. For refilling, I use inexpensive WWM C11 water-soluble ink for Canon inkjet cartridges that I talked about earlier, although they are not of very high quality, but since I don’t print photos on this printer, they suit me perfectly.
The carriage is in the cartridge replacement position.
Sometimes it happened that I didn’t use the printer for a long time and the nozzles dried up in the print head (PG), I had to clean and soak them, but it was my fault and I have no complaints about the printer. It is necessary to print at least once a week so that the ink does not dry out.
Over time, the printer began to draw paper poorly, and after a while it stopped altogether.
I would like to share my experience in fixing this problem.
 |
Video (click to play). |
To do this, you need to disassemble the printer and get to the paper pickup roller.
First you need to remove the cover that supports the paper, for this you need to bend the mount to the right side.
Next, I remove the front cover, also pushing the mount aside.
Then I unscrew the two screws in front of the printer.
Using a screwdriver, I help the latch to get out of the hook on one side.
Exactly the same on the other side.
After that, the top cover of the printer can be easily removed.
I remove the additional cover on the left side of the printer.
Now, if you look from the top, you can see the paper pickup roller itself, which you need to get to.
I unscrew the screw on the right side, near the carriage parking.
On the other hand, I unscrew 3 screws. It is not necessary to unscrew the third screw marked with a red circle, it holds the encoder mount, I remove it and clean the encoder itself, because it has become dirty during all the time of work and since I have disassembled the printer, at the same time I will do additional preventive maintenance.
If you unscrew the third screw, then you need to remove the encoder itself and wash it with either alcohol, or plain water or a cleaning agent.
After repair, during assembly, the encoder will need to be installed in the same way as it was installed. It has an “L” mark on it, which means it is the left side, and must be installed with this mark on the left side of the printer.
Next, I disconnect the connector on the control board.
I unscrew the screw on the rail along which the carriage with the print head travels.
And on the other side of the rails too.
Next, you need to remove 5 clamping springs, which are held on by latches, they are easily removed by pressing the spring and pulling it towards you. Three pieces are on the right side.
After that, you can easily move the rail with the carriage to the side, it is not necessary to disconnect the other connectors, they do not interfere.
Now, having reached the very capture roller, I remove the elastic band from it, but it is very important not to forget which side it was worn on.It is necessary to remove it and rinse thoroughly with alcohol or a cleaning agent, then put it back on, but so that the worn part of the rubber is on the flat part of the pickup roller.
Now that I have washed and cleaned everything, I look at the absorber (popularly called diapers), if it is full and ink flows out of it, then it should also be taken out, rinsed thoroughly in running water, dried and installed back, but in my case it it was already washed before, so I won’t talk about it in detail, I think you yourself will see everything by disassembling your printer.
Then I collect everything in the reverse order. I connect the printer to the computer and do a test print. Wow - EVERYTHING WORKS, the printer works like new again.
In general, this printer has served me for many years, after repair and cleaning, I think it will last a few more years.
This model has not been produced for a long time, but if you have such a printer lying around at home, consider whether it is worth throwing it away, it is simple, economical, practical, and most importantly, reliable and durable!
Do-it-yourself printer repair - what can be done at hometo save on calling a wizard or sending a printing device to a service center? Not all problems can be solved on your own, but there are things that you can diagnose yourself. However, do not forget that a serious malfunction can only be identified and corrected by the hands of a specialist with extensive experience and a specialized tool for carrying out the relevant work. Repair of printers by service center engineers YauzaOrgService guarantees high quality and speed of service without overpayments. But what can be found at home?
• The most common cause of printer failure, whether Canon, HP, Epson, Oki, Samsung, Ricoh, Brother, or Xerox, is to clean the machine regularly. In simple terms, it's rubbish. Because of it, an unbalance of the case often occurs, noise appears during operation, or paper capture stops. That is why it is recommended to clean the printing device at regular intervals and only when the equipment is turned off. But you need to know about the prohibition of the use of alcohol - for wiping we take only ordinary distilled water, a new sponge and cotton swabs.
• We check the correct operation: the printer must be plugged in, the tray is firmly pushed in to the very end, the sheet guides are set, the cartridges are correctly installed and there is no jamming of foreign objects in the device.
• Don't be afraid to inspect the inside of the equipment for paper residue or torn pieces, toner spills, plaster, sand, or water.
• Check the cartridge is full to see if it has run out.
• If printer malfunctions are displayed as errors on the computer monitor, be sure to write down the code, number, or information from the screen for transmission to the wizard.
• Pay attention to the print quality of your documents, whether there are additional streaks or spots, what color they are.
• Monitor the frequency of paper jams.
• Listen for extraneous sounds, crackles, noise when printing.
Having considered all the above nuances, which often lead to a stop in the operation of the printer, you can speed up the process of correcting the malfunction, replace the repair procedure with prevention and save money on the visit of a specialist. An assessment of the state of the equipment’s performance, an accurate statement of the problem and a listing of the problems that have appeared will allow the master to respond to the request as quickly as possible, since he will present the scope of work in advance. If this is not a serious breakdown and the situation allows you to repair parts, replace components or restore operation quickly - printer repair can be carried out at the diagnostic stage. By calling the phone number or sending a request through the website YauzaOrgService – assistance will be provided with a guarantee for all types of operations and services performed.
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Radio engineering, electronics and do-it-yourself circuits Canon Print Head Repair
Some printer models Canon the following error occurs: The printer software reports that The print head is not installed in the printer. Moreover, this malfunction is very typical for a whole line of Canon i320-iP1500 printers. First of all, you should check the health of the cable and head contacts. If they are working, then the problem is in the thermal sensor, which is built into the print head. In combination, the printer checks for the presence of the head itself using this signal. Therefore, when the thermal sensor breaks, the printer considers that the head is not installed and a corresponding message is displayed.
In most cases, a printer head with this problem can be repaired. To do this, the sensor is replaced by almost any small-sized diode, for example 1N4007. It must be soldered directly to the pads of the head, while being careful.
The head contacts are numbered from right to left from bottom to top. The anode of the diode is soldered to pad 37, the cathode to pad 36. After installing the diode, the printer sees the head again.
However, damage to the thermal sensor could be caused by overheating and the malfunction may not be the only one. For example, sometimes the black decoder burns out and the printer starts to streak through one line, which looks like black ink is running out.
Unfortunately, repairing the decoder is not possible, but there is still a solution, and it is software.
You need to set the maximum print quality in the printer properties:
This restores the print.
Unfortunately, old printers, no matter how good and convenient they are, do not last forever. And when it comes time to replace an old printer with a modern one, an important question of choice arises: how to choose a printer that can be easily refilled without buying cartridges for the price of half a printer? We hope our article on printers and cartridges will help you with this. After reading it, you will learn that it is not at all necessary to fall for the marketing tricks of manufacturers and yet it is relatively easy to find a printer that can be cheaply refilled many times.
PS: . if it does not burn the head with error B200.
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micro, Instead of writing in a personal, I would go through the search and find other links.
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Tayger1974 (24th February 2009 – 09:51 AM) wrote:
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Post has been edited by Snow_Irbis: 28 February 2009 – 23:23
Repair MFP printer CANON PIXMA IP1500
Printer CANON PIXMA IP1500 service and repair in Moscow and the region.
Repair of CANON PIXMA IP1500 printer
Is the CANON PIXMA IP1500 printer broken?
There is a solution!
It often happens that the printer stops working properly and starts to print poorly, or not at all. What to do in this case?
You need the help of a professional, knowledgeable technician who will diagnose and repair your CANON PIXMA IP1500 printer.
Our technical center deals with just such breakdowns. We will make your CANON PIXMA IP1500 printer work as soon as possible. Just dial and contact us!
Maintenance of the CANON PIXMA IP1500 printer
How to diagnose and repair the CANON PIXMA IP1500 printer
Canon printer service includes the replacement of only quality parts from the manufacturer.This is the third time I have had to repair the double gear of Canon iP1500 printers, which do not feed paper. In this case, the printer gives a jam error, and the feed plate in the "feed tray" does not even try to move the paper to the feed rollers. At the same time, an extraneous sound can be heard, as if something is interfering with the operation of the drive, overloading it. The cause may be the double gear driving the feed plate movement mechanism.
The fact is that the printer “monitors” the fact of paper feeding not only by the paper sensor in the feed path, but also by the sensor in the feed drive gearbox: Fig. 1, Fig. 2. (Actually, in these figures - the gearbox of the i320 ... iP1000 printer, but in this situation it is not so important.) The wires with the connector in Fig. 1 just go from the gearbox sensor. The sensor "tracks" the protrusions-flags of the black gear of the reducer, which is connected to the eccentric volute of the feed plate drive, Fig. 2.
But the rotation is transmitted to the black gear and the eccentric snail through the intermediate gear, which was “normal” on the younger models, as can be seen in Fig. 2, but on the iP1500 it is doubled, Fig. 3.
This gear is made on the principle of a one-way rotation clutch, and the disease of such clutches is well known: when the spring is compressed, it tends to “fall through” between the halves of the clutch. At the slightest wear, when the halves of the coupling diverge even slightly, the coil of the spring, passing along the border of contact between the halves, is pulled into the slot, the coupling “breaks”, and the spring is often deformed so that it becomes difficult to restore it.
On Fig. 4 it can be seen that the fastening halves of the coupling do not sit tightly, with a slight bend inward. With a certain axial force that stretches the clutch, the hooks jump off and the clutch is destroyed. Right, according to Fig. 3, the clutch support is noticeably bent in this case, and the clutch can generally jump out of the supports. If this does not happen, the clutch “wedges” the mechanism, and the corresponding sound appears.
If the deformation of the spring is small, and it can be corrected, anyway, the clutch, once “opened”, will open again after a very short time.
To reliably restore the clutch, and to prevent its failure, it is enough to make sure that the hooks cannot come off. For example, insert a locking ring between them and the coupling axis.
On Fig. 5: disassembled clutch, a spring that was almost completely straightened (it can be seen that one turn is a little “failed”) and a ring made from paper clips with a PVC sheath. The diameter of the wire of the paper clip with the sheath is just “what you need”. It is only necessary to “compress” the ring along the axis of the clutch, otherwise it can press the hooks against the half of the clutch held by them and make it difficult to rotate. It is practically enough to wrap the coupling axis with a paper clip, forming a ring, cut it off with a gap between the ends and tighten it so that the ends meet.
On Fig. 6 all this "disgrace" in the collection.
None of the printers repaired in this way have yet returned to me, although the first one has worked after the repair for several months. The spring in Fig. 3 is the most "smooth" of the three, the other two had much larger residual deformations, but they worked.
PS. One of the printers that came to me with this malfunction did not work for a week after purchase. It seems to be their weak point. If a paper jam occurs and the double gear remains engaged with the black gear, pulling the paper "backwards" creates a gear failure condition.
Therefore, if it becomes necessary to disassemble the printer “before the gearbox”, it makes sense to put the ring in advance, without waiting for its destruction.
P.P.S. This gearbox was transferred almost unchanged to later models: iP1600, iP2200, MP150, MP160. As an illustration: excerpt from SM on iP16002200 printers.
darkness_kos » 26-07-2008 01:30
Please help me solve the problem.
I decided to wash the printer's diapers and at the same time clean them from drinking.Carefully dismantled, washed, cleaned. Accurately collected and ofigel when I saw what he was typing.1) I started typing crookedly. The text on both the left and right margins is uneven. Between themselves, the rows are also not even - one to the left, the other to the right. For some rows, it prints the upper half of the row to the right, the lower half to the left, with an interval of several letters.
2) Doesn't print all text. No matter how many pages you send to print, it prints only half or a third of the first page. And that's it.
3) Approximately in the middle of the text (vertically) makes a more or less uniform “gap” of about 4 mm across the entire text. For example: “first half of the sentence” - space - “second half”. And this gap does not overwrite the letters. For example, the word “knowledge” is printed like this: “knowledge”. Also, this space puts right in the middle of the letter (left half of the letter - space - right).
Help who than can. What can be wrong?
Maybe something needs to be adjusted? Hope it's not electronic.
Thank you so much if anyone can help!
POTATOR » 26-07-2008 21:16
a guest » 28-07-2008 17:04
Sorry for the possibly stupid question, but what does the coordinate ruler look like? And how to combine it with the core?
And I didn’t understand because there was nothing to do. Six months ago, he stopped printing, said that the diapers were full. I reset it, but there was no time to wash the diapers. Yes, and there was a whole bunch of dust, it got dirty with paint and constantly smeared the paper.
Ohlamon! » 28-07-2008 18:07
darkness_kos » 29-07-2008 16:42
a guest » 13-04-2009 01:04
old man » 13-04-2009 23:05
phantom51 » 03-06-2009 17:25
Privorsky Konstantin » 14-08-2009 14:34
PRENEX » 15-08-2009 07:43
Seryoga » 09-10-2009 00:31
Elena Savenko » 04-01-2011 13:58
The above printer has stopped printing. I understand that the old man, that it's time to go to the dump, but until recently he printed normally and for my needs it was quite enough.
Yesterday, in the morning, I tried to print out the TIN to my wife, it printed with some kind of zones, also with transverse stripes. I thought that the nozzles were dirty, turned on cleaning, then deep cleaning. The printer began to print color pictures almost normally, and black text was barely visible. I already had no time, I turned off the computer and left. After a couple of hours, I turn it on and check the printer. Everything works, without errors, the head drives as it should, but an absolutely clean sheet leaves. The ink tanks are full, cleaning does not help, reinstalling the drivers too. Nozzles are also hardly to blame, because in the morning the pictures were printed.
Help with advice, please. Google didn't help.
Edit | Profile | Message | ICQ | Quote | Tell the moderator no, in the sense that the printer has a bios like a mother and throw it away .. A guarantee from a company that I simply won’t get to, in Moscow, although it didn’t let me down before, but broach, that’s not the point, but the fact that the printak itself began to plow very quickly and noisily .. I soaked my heads in every possible way in the printak, the color one did not start .. I think the roofing felts are electronics roofing felts nozzles, suspicion of a chip .. I recently downloaded a program to reset the chip
nifiga I don’t understand, but only the printak stopped detecting in the wood, that is, in my opinion, it’s clear that the matter is in memory, but how to work with it, that’s a question. Can you tell me the norms.prog for working with pixma electronics? thanks in advance..
' width='8' height='8' /> Canon Pixma IP1500 Printer Repair
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User No: 167The problem is this, after resetting the diaper with the iP1500 Service Tool program, color printing disappeared, black prints perfectly and color is unprecedented. I think something is wrong in the printer’s memory. I downloaded the firmware for the Canon iP1500 printer from a new printer on one site (file ip1500_new.bin) But I don’t know how to shove it into the printer. Maybe there is a special program for this. Please if anyone can help please reply.
1 what version reset?
2 did not climb into other functions of the program GeneralTools?
2 is there a choice of printer model in the program, if there is, then maybe accidentally clicked and chose another model.
another program can not do it.Mine
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User #: 1 604Answer for Guest- having removed the rubber protector from the paper feed roller, wrap a couple of turns of electrical tape under it (that is, on the roller body itself). It is desirable as evenly as possible!
Answer for Zard- I reset the program: GeneralTool for T3164 Ver1.18. I just checked, the norm is 100%. I'm not sure that you will find a program for writing EEPROM in the printer, without soldering it! Maybe you have friends in radio electronics workshops? solder and record!
If your inkjet printer Canon Pixma iP series issued a certain code on the display, you can find out the cause of the error in this section.
But the error code is only a consequence of a malfunction in the device; and how to fix the failure itself, there are many materials in the sections “Repair”, “Likbez”, “FAQ”; you can also use the search or index site materials.
Insert paper into tray and press Resume/Cancel
Insert paper into cassette and press Resume/Cancel
*) only for models that support CD printing
Jam (when feeding from a cassette)
Duplex Jam (double-sided printing)
Front cover closed (and preventing paper from exiting the printer)
Printhead not installed
An unsuitable print head for this printer model is installed (an error occurred while communicating with the EEPROM of the head)
*) from June 2006, instead of the QY6-0042 print head, the QY6-0064 print head is installed in the iP3000 printer
**) only for iP8500CD tray cover closed during CD printing
The CD tray cover is open while printing on paper.
CD tray cover closed during CD printing
The CD tray cover is open while printing on paper.
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Download the theme in various formats or view the printable version of the theme.
Master class on creating a DIY homemade CISS for canon i250 - pixma ip1500
Before reading this article, I strongly recommend that you familiarize yourself with the principles of CISS operation, with the design of the CISS donor, CISS loop and CISS capsules.
If you have already read, go directly to the general design. In view of the identity of the structure of the print head and the carrier chassis, this instruction is also suitable for creating homemade ciss for printers: canon i250, canon i320, canon i350, canon ip1000, canon ip1500 and the like.- Install the CISS capsules on the fittings of the printer's print head;
- Slightly modify the printer body (install mounts for the CVF cable);
- Measure, lay and fix the CISS loop;
- Refuel and adjust CISS
The print head of the printer (PG) is divided by a partition into two compartments: the black channel compartment and the color channel compartment.
Personally, with the help of sharp miniature nippers, I dismantled this partition for ease of installation.For a tight connection of the CISS capsules of color channels and the canon i250 print head, it is convenient to use a component from droppers (rubber cone). A fragment of this flask is shown in the lower right corner of the figure. Instead of a rubber pipe, you can also use a PVC hose (in the figure, it connects the capsule of the yellow channel), but this significantly complicates the process of mounting and dismounting the capsules from the print head. connections with the “nose” of the CISS capsule and the PG fitting.
Having fiddled with the selection of a PVC tube of the required diameter for the black channel, I ultimately decided to mount this capsule a little differently. I took a rubber plunger from a 5cc syringe and drilled a hole in the center, slightly smaller in diameter than the PG fitting. In this case, the piston is securely held on the fitting, and the bulb of the syringe itself is put on top of it with a moderate effort.
In the figure, the black channel capsule is shown in an unfinished state, how it looks when assembled can be seen in Figure No. 2. All capsules have the same structure, but different fastening to the printer's PG. This statement applies not only to CISS capsules for canon i250 - ip1500 series printers, CISS capsules for printers from other companies, such as HP or Epson, have an identical structure.The only condition is to maintain the tightness of the entire system.
Figure 3 shows a close-up of the black channel fitting and a rubber washer-seal from a rubber piston put on it.Let's move on to the next item, namely the refinement of the printer case. This article will consider the option of refining the canon i250 case, the rest of the models have almost 100% the same structure.
All improvements have one goal - to ensure the fixation of the CISS loop at the right points, while the loop should not be transferred and freely pass ink from the donor to the capsules. So the first refinement is to cut a hole for the top bar that will hold the train.The bar is cut out of a plastic card and is attached to the printer body with the help of automotive double-sided adhesive tape, which is several millimeters thick and has good gluing performance. What other improvements are waiting for this printer read here: self-made CISS on Canon i250-ip1500 part 2
Hello!
I found how to reset the overflow of the sump, but I can not figure it out to the end:Step 1: Manual for Service mode
1.Unplug power and USB.
2. Open door and hold power button.
3.Connect power.
4. Close door, then release power button.step 2: Software for Permanent
1. Reconnect the printer cable.
2.Open General Tools software and select (USB PORT)
3.Choose (SET DESTINATION 1) And it should be reset.Remark “After service mode Pls use software for permanent reset”
Step 1
1) Unplug the power cord and USB cord
2) Open the printer and press the power button
3)Include the power cord
4) Close the printer, release the power buttonThe printer has entered programming mode.
Explain what to do in the second step?
1) Connect the USB cable ?
2) Open Printer Properties and select USB port setting?
3) It is not at all clear what this item is.Thanks in advance for your help.
Here is a detailed instruction, SAP used + utility:
Video (click to play). Two options for resetting the “diaper”
CANON Pixma iP1500
I
Resetting the sump overflow error code - “diaper” using the service program
1. Disconnect the power cable from the printer.
2. Open the printer cover.
3. Press and hold the POWER button and connect the power cable.
4. Close the printer cover and release the power button.
5. Disconnect the interface cable from the printer and reconnect after 10 seconds - now you can use the service program.
6. Run the General Tools utility and follow the instructions in the README.TXT file - select the port - USB PORT. If there is no port (USBxxx) in the selection box, then you must enter it manually, as written on the “Ports” tab in the printer properties (for example: USB017).
7. Select a zone - SET DESTINATION, if necessary.
8. Often a window appears with the inscription - “. . ” in response to pressing the Test Pattern key; as a result, the EEPROM and the diaper remain NOT reset. The fact is that the Pattern.prn and EEPROMData.prn files have the ReadOnly attribute. You must remove this attribute from files to resolve the issue.
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