In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the epson cx4300 printer from a real wizard for the site my.housecope.com.
START COPY CONFERENCE
Printers, copiers, MFPs, faxes and other office equipment:
issues of repair, maintenance, refueling, selection
He became the owner of an ancient but cult inkjet, kept with his family, almost spent cartridges, but did not print for a very long time, about a year.
I decided to revive the article.
I did everything according to the instructions, it is already the second day, 3 colors have not opened.
The first one (Cyan) opened the same hour after the start of the procedure. the rest do not (((
Maybe you should change the recipe of the muscle yourself and add, for example, 95% medical alcohol, or ammonia?
Shoot, soak for several hours. Try to draw out the ink, then blow it out (no fanaticism). Soak again. Repeat the procedure.
If it does not help, use an ultrasound bath.
Did not help? Throw away and order on Ali. The price of the issue is within 1000 rubles.
Try to draw out ink
Is it pumped into the return line with a syringe?
then purge (no fanaticism)
Is it a syringe with a solution?
The CX4300 has very nasty heads. Percentage of successful flushing, about 20%.
(2)
DestroyER (2): Is this pumped into the return line with a syringe? Yes
DestroyER (2): Is it a syringe with a solution? push without much effort.
(3) Regular PG from Epson. They are completely dry, especially on yellow. And here the vehicle only had a year, and even with cartridges. Chances are good.
With the original cartridges installed (even if they have run out), the device can stand on the cabinet for several years. Then it is easily washed.
Boris (3): CX4300 has very harmful heads. My percentage is slightly different - about 90-95%.
DestroyER (2): give a syringe with a solution? Exactly. With a syringe for at least 10 ml, and better (safer) for 20 ml. During his practice, he blew 2-3 such heads with a bubble, their subsequent analysis showed the futility of flushing. All heads were dried out from compatible cartridges.
 |
Video (click to play). |
(5) Then it is easily washed.
... It was getting dark. it was the third day of soaking and the second day of soaking the head. No results.
Read the article, the process is not badly described only for Canon heads, but the principle is the same for everyone. https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1351/canon/promyvka-pechatayushhej-golovki-pixma.html
(7) Ha! I read it, went to the pharmacy, bought ammonia, added a cube to the bowl where the head would get wet - after half an hour Magenta showed signs of life)))
We continue to observe.
Hello gentlemen.
Tell me how you can fix the glitch yourself (if possible).
EPSON CX4300 Printer... The ink is native.
Produces horizontal and vertical stripes on sheets.
In the beginning there were small and colored squares.
I cleared my head.
Calibration carried out.
Now there are huge black stripes. Black ink is almost zero.
Here's an example: 
-
- Offline
- Info
- Posts: 1,039
- Registration Date: 29 Jan 09
- Reputation: 151
- Mine
- Offline
- Info
- Posts: 15 914
- Registration: 20 Dec 05
- Reputation: 106
- Reputation 2018:
- City: Ukraine
- Pro
- Offline
- Info
- Posts: 1 117
- Registration: 20 Aug 07
- Reputation: 3
- Reputation 2018:
- City: Ukraine
- Pro
-
- Offline
- Info
- Posts: 1,039
- Registration Date: 29 Jan 09
- Reputation: 151
- Mine
Episode (26th April 2010 - 07:32 PM) wrote:
- Offline
- Info
- Posts: 15 914
- Registration: 20 Dec 05
- Reputation: 106
- Reputation 2018:
- City: Ukraine
- Pro
Seryoga Donetskiy (27th April 2010 - 06:27 PM) wrote:
It will do, of course. This is not a very common model, and besides, a little (so to speak) outdated. But it is a tank, which, if you approach it correctly, will chew more than one hundred thousand sheets. CX3700 threshes in the office reports of 200-500 pages a day, when reporting, after - two weeks rest. Not the first year already.
Seryoga Donetskiy (27th April 2010 - 06:27 PM) wrote:
Epson inkjet printers are prone to frequent clogs - this is an undeniable fact. Suspensions in ink, air bubbles, excessive vaporization, dust from paper and many more subtle and annoying reasons can become the reason. One of them, by the way, is the main one, is a long idle time of the printer on the table.
Before starting any printing, if you are interested in a normal result, you need to check the operation of the printer's print head using a nozzle pattern. Such a template is printed out by standard means through the driver, or by pressing certain buttons (see the instructions for the printer) on the printer case.
Ready-to-print printer:
And in this case, there are obvious blockages in the print head of the printer - a disease of any Epson inkjet model:
At different times, different Epson models had different templates: from thin lines, from thick, large, small, even with solid colored squares, but the meaning of such a check has not changed - if you see gaps and spaces, then the printer is clogged. Such blockages will appear on prints with colored stripes across the image or excessive graininess, in general, parasitic information that spoils the appearance of the print.
As for the quality of ink, native ink from Epson, especially in the first year of operation, clogs the printer much less than analogues. This is also a fact, although third-party manufacturers tend to improve the quality of their product, and decent ink samples come across on the market, but no one has yet “cracked” the Epson secret.
But in reality, the printer still clogs up, and since we are more often dealing with CISS and analog ink, then we will also encounter cleaning the print head more often.
The print head of the printer on the carriage and the airborne CISS:
The simplest blockage is the absence of a few stripes in the check pattern. This can be cured with one or two cleanings. If the printer is aged, then a “walking” blockage is possible - that is, after cleaning, the segments appear on the template, and immediately disappear after printing. In this case, you need to charge the cartridges or CISS to capacity and let it stand for a significant period. It helps in 90% of cases. But before that, you need to make sure that the fittings on the print head (where the cartridges are inserted) are clean, free of dirt scale.
It is impossible to clean (that is, through the standard cleaning function) for a long time. Three, four, but five times is already the limit. Further, unwanted temperature processes will begin to occur in the head, and then you will definitely have to put the printer aside for a week.
It makes sense for specific disappearances of colors after one or two cleaning runs to start up just such a printout at the highest quality.
For grayscale (i.e. to restore black):
The type of paper specified in the driver is only important for the driver to allow setting the maximum dpi. In this case, you can also print on ordinary 80 g / m2 paper at full width.
There are a few things to pay attention to when cleaning.
The entire route of the printhead must be kept clean:The paralon should not bump up, and of course there should be no debris. The photo shows a sample of a rather dirty printer, and of course the percentage of blockages is higher. It is recommended to arrange for the waste ink to be discharged outside, and not into the internal diaper.
Another important point is the parking space (the picture shows a very dirty sample):
This is a fundamentally important part of the printer. On such a platform, movable with springs and sensors, in rest mode, the printer parks the print head. Naturally, over time, what you will not find there - hair, dust, lumps, even animal hair. That is, the cleanliness in this part of the printer must also be monitored and very carefully wiped with an alcohol solution. It is possible to collect dirt from the fittings and planting with a syringe, drawing in the sewage. But a fleece on a stick can leave a parasitic nap, so be careful with this.
Cleaning with flushing fluids
There are special fluids on the market for flushing the printheads. Previously, they were replaced by a weak solution of ammonia, now the heads have become technologically more complicated, and it makes sense to insure yourself by buying such a liquid:The use of "flushing" does not cause any difficulties. The main thing is to choose the right type of ink for your printer. Old epsons were generally cleaned by everyone, except, of course, alcohol (too aggressive environment).
The flushing liquid is poured into the cartridge, and you let the printer stand overnight.In very difficult cases, clean through a regular cleaning, and also print color prints at the highest resolution. You can dilute the ink and liquid with this liquid if you need to preserve the printer for a significant period.In severe cases, it is best to remove the head and immerse the bottom of the head in a container of flushing fluid.
Purge the print head
It makes sense to use a blower when nothing helps - the check template displays a blank sheet, and there is no hope of getting at least some lines on it.You can blow out with dropper hoses or gently with a syringe. To supply air carefully, without saliva and water - there is a very high risk, especially in later models, to permanently kill the printer head.
Many have EPSON inkjet printers at home. During the operation of printers, malfunctions of varying complexity may occur. Of course, this article will not solve all the problems, but it will allow you to objectively assess your strengths and capabilities when repairing a printer. Allows you to set the direction of troubleshooting.
Let's start with inkjet theory.
Epson applied the principle of squeezing out a drop of ink; as a piston, the property of a piezoelectric element is used to change its shape when voltage is applied to it.
The advantage of such printing is the ability to place the nozzles very close to each other and get a high print resolution. Disadvantages - very high requirements for the ink used (for fluidity, dispersion of the dye, drying time); as a result, the cost of this ink is quite high. Therefore, users try to use ink from other manufacturers.
To reduce the cost of ink, Epson's competitors are making the technology cheaper; perhaps the parameters cannot be reproduced ("know-how", however!). And the result is "on the face", or rather - in the head (printer): the nozzles are clogged, the ink itself dries up.
Now let's move on to an overview of tips and tricks gleaned from StartCopy.
First advice - the use of an ultrasonic bath for washing the head. I did not use it myself, but here are the conclusions I made from the tips for use: first, you need to find or buy a bath somewhere, then experiment with the printer head (immersion depth, soaking time, liquid composition), and if you have one printer (say, home ), then any unsuccessful experiment leads to the failure of the head (and the printer) permanently. Should I bother ?!
Second tip - washing the head under pressure.
The technique is as follows: fill a syringe with liquid for cleansing the head and, gently pressing on the piston, try to pierce the nozzles. If the nozzles are not very dry, then this method will help; and if not, the piezoelectric elements will burst, and - goodbye, head!
Method three , personally tested. based on the use of the method recommended by the manufacturer itself: using the pump, which is available on all Epson printers.
To begin with, we stock up on a sufficient amount of liquid for flushing the heads (0.5-1 l), since the larger the packaging, the cheaper the unit of liquid volume is obtained. Then we partially disassemble the printer so that you can get to the parking lot. We make the head move to the side and drip the liquid onto the foam rubber in the parking lot, put everything back in place and leave it to soak for several hours. It is better to return the head when the printer is off, so that the pump does not pump out the flushing liquid - it's too early.
Then we turn on the printer and let it carry out a cleaning cycle. We print a control sheet. If the result is unsatisfactory, we prepare several syringes (preferably a smaller one - by 2 ml) and saw off the upper part of one syringe. We fill the syringe with foam rubber, remove the cartridge and put this syringe on the ink intake instead of the cartridge. Pour liquid into the syringe and give the printer several commands for pumping; you can even print; then we return the cartridges to their place.
I sometimes pour liquid into the cartridge itself (2-3 ml., Closer to the intake) - the ink in the cartridge also dries up. Then I give the command to pump with this ink - and that's it, in 90% of cases this technology helps.
If the described measures still did not help, then we take off the head and try to rinse it with a syringe, but we do not focus on squeezing out dried ink (what the pump did), but on sucking ink from the head. If a result appears - say, 70% of the nozzles are printing - we buy original ink: they must finally clean up what we did not succeed in.
And only then we put in compatible ink - and save, save, save (until the problems appear again).
Unfortunately, the original ink is not a panacea for all ills: it dries in the nozzles as well as compatible ones - for example, went on vacation, and hello to the head; the problem is assured for you.
And now about the sad thing: the developers at Epson are not asleep, they have launched polymer ink into production, which does not seem to be washed off and does not fade. But if they have dried up in your head, how do you order them to be picked out from there?
Separately - about the reset of the sump overflow counter (in the everyday life of "diapers").
I recommend this procedure to start and finish all work; and if necessary, then change the filler itself in the sump.
What to use as a filler? The scope for imagination is the largest: from the original to medical cotton wool.
Well, if you have touched the diaper, then it makes sense to talk about the prevention of the printer as a whole.
Prevention of the mechanics of an inkjet printer is not much different from the prevention of a dot matrix; only here, perhaps, there is more dirt - this is spilled or splashed ink, and paper dust. All together gives "excellent" result: dirt is coked in the mechanics up to the complete failure of the printer.
Regarding the selection of lubricant for the guide, I will say the following: ideally, you need a lubricant for precision mechanics (watch oil); earlier in the hardware stores they sold sewing machine oil - it will also work. Now it's really possible to buy gun oil.
Felt rings or gaskets in the guides need to be replaced or washed (depending on the model).
I will separately say about the parking space of the head. I already mentioned foam rubber in the parking lot above, but be sure to pay attention to the rubber band that is pressed against the head: it should not be dirty so that the clamp is as tight as possible - then, during long-term storage, the ink will dry up later.
Particular attention is paid to the knife that cleans the head: there should also be no dried ink there.
When building a country house, priority is usually given to interior decoration, and the arrangement of the site is sometimes postponed "for later." However, after trying to get from the garage to the house in the dark and stumbling several times along the way, the owner usually comes to the exit that installing outdoor lighting is not something worth saving on. Moreover, this lighting should be well thought out, planned and functional - there is clearly not enough light from the windows of the house or a lonely lamp above the porch. More details ...
It is unsafe to neglect poor electrical wiring in the house, and especially if it is wooden! If you lose contact in the outlet, the light "flickers", interference periodically appears on the TV screen, wheezing appears in the receiver, then you should worry about checking your wiring. Perhaps somewhere there is a bad contact and as a result of this, heating and ...
Frequent breakdown of game consoles is a break in the power cord at the base of the connector, as well as unsoldering or breaking off the connector itself that feeds the console. In one case or another, the game console does not receive power from the source and starts "freezing" or turns off completely. More details ...
Epson Stylus CX4300 - cult IFIs, at one time it was a particularly popular model, at the moment only Canon Pixma MP250 / 280 can compare with its popularity. I have already written a lot about him, but it’s not like I could not muster my strength and do disassembly instructions of this device, I have finally matured and I hope that the instruction will be useful to many, tk. knowing how to understand CX4300 it will not be difficult to disassemble any other Epson MFP of this class.
1. I start disassembling this MFP by removing the scanner unit. In order to remove the scanner unit, you must first remove the scanner unit lock:
2. We remove the scanner unit itself from the hinges, for this we pry the right hinge with a flat screwdriver, as shown in the photo below:
to remove from the left hinge, pull the scanner unit to the left and up:
3. The scanner was removed, now we proceed to remove the upper part of the case and the control panel, for this we need to unscrew a number of screws, the photo below shows the screws that we must unscrew (marked with green circles) - unscrew:
4. After unscrewing the necessary screws, remove the upper part of the case while holding the scanner unit. it remained connected to the control board. In order to remove the upper part of the case, you will have to make some efforts - with moderate force we pull it upwards for the shown section of the case below:
5. Having removed the upper part of the case, you get the following picture:
now we turn off the loops indicated by the green arrows, finally remove the upper part of the case and the scanner unit, as a result we should see the following picture:
6. Now our task is to disconnect the lower part of the case from the printer itself, so we begin to unscrew the screws marked with green circles:
and picking up in the places shown below, we separate the lower part of the case from the printer:
in the end, you should get the following picture:
7. Now our task is to remove the rail and carriage for cartridges, or rather to separate this mechanism from the main part, so we unscrew it once:
remove the drive belt from the engine (Timing belt):
remove the diven pulley of the drive belt, which interferes in order to unscrew one of the screws:
unscrew 2 more marked screws:
remove the plastic guide of the paper feed roller, for this we unscrew one screw and press the latch it can be easily removed:
by disconnecting the connectors from the printer formatter board:
finally, it becomes possible to remove the rail and carriage for cartridges and everything adjacent to these parts:
the result should look like this:
8. We remove the paper feeding blade (Hopper), for this special knowledge is not required, we just help to pull it out of the groove with a flat screwdriver:
9. We remove the parking lot (Cap Assy), for this you need to snap off the 2nd latches:
10. We remove the pump (Pump Assy), for this it is necessary to release from 2 latches:
11. Well, in conclusion, we remove the paper feed mechanism (ASF Unit), freeing it from several latches:
As a result, we get an almost completely disassembled Epson Stylus CX4300, we covered the main and difficult points. If there is a need to replace or flush the absorber, then we also got to it:
On this, I consider the disassembly of the Epson Stylus CX4300 multifunctional printer complete, if you have any questions or have corrections - write, explain and add.
You may also find the following materials on the Epson Stylus CX4300 useful:
Epson Stylus CX4300 - cult IFIs, at one time it was a particularly popular model, at the moment only Canon Pixma MP250 / 280 can compare with its popularity. I have already written a lot about him, but it’s not like I could not muster my strength and do disassembly instructions of this device, I have finally matured and I hope that the instruction will be useful to many, tk. knowing how to understand CX4300 it will not be difficult to disassemble any other Epson MFP of this class.
1. I start disassembling this MFP by removing the scanner unit. In order to remove the scanner unit, you must first remove the scanner unit lock:
2. We remove the scanner unit itself from the hinges, for this we pry the right hinge with a flat screwdriver, as shown in the photo below:
to remove from the left hinge, pull the scanner unit to the left and up:
3. The scanner was removed, now we proceed to remove the upper part of the case and the control panel, for this we need to unscrew a number of screws, the photo below shows the screws that we must unscrew (marked with green circles) - unscrew:
4. After unscrewing the necessary screws, remove the upper part of the case while holding the scanner unit. it remained connected to the control board. In order to remove the upper part of the case, you will have to make some efforts - with moderate force we pull it upwards for the shown section of the case below:
5. Having removed the upper part of the case, you get the following picture:
now we turn off the loops indicated by the green arrows, finally remove the upper part of the case and the scanner unit, as a result we should see the following picture:
6. Now our task is to disconnect the lower part of the case from the printer itself, so we begin to unscrew the screws marked with green circles:
and picking up in the places shown below, we separate the lower part of the case from the printer:
in the end, you should get the following picture:
7. Now our task is to remove the rail and carriage for cartridges, or rather to separate this mechanism from the main part, so we unscrew it once:
remove the drive belt from the engine (Timing belt):
remove the diven pulley of the drive belt, which interferes in order to unscrew one of the screws:
unscrew 2 more marked screws:
remove the plastic guide of the paper feed roller, for this we unscrew one screw and press the latch it can be easily removed:
by disconnecting the connectors from the printer formatter board:
finally, it becomes possible to remove the rail and carriage for cartridges and everything adjacent to these parts:
the result should look like this:
8. We remove the paper feeding blade (Hopper), for this special knowledge is not required, we just help to pull it out of the groove with a flat screwdriver:
9. We remove the parking lot (Cap Assy), for this you need to snap off the 2nd latches:
10. We remove the pump (Pump Assy), for this it is necessary to release from 2 latches:
11. Well, in conclusion, we remove the paper feed mechanism (ASF Unit), freeing it from several latches:
As a result, we get an almost completely disassembled Epson Stylus CX4300, we covered the main and difficult points. If there is a need to replace or flush the absorber, then we also got to it:
On this, I consider the disassembly of the Epson Stylus CX4300 multifunctional printer complete, if you have any questions or have corrections - write, explain and add.
You may also find the following materials on the Epson Stylus CX4300 useful:
DIY printer repair - what you can do at hometo save money on calling a master or sending a printing device to a service center? Not all problems can be solved on your own, but there are things that you can diagnose yourself. However, do not forget that a serious malfunction can be identified and corrected exclusively by the hands of a specialist with extensive experience and specialized tools for carrying out the corresponding work. Repair of printers by service center engineers YauzaOrgService guarantees high quality and speed of service delivery without overpayments. But what will it be possible to reveal at home?
• The most common cause of printer breakdown, whether Canon, HP, Epson, Oki, Samsung, Ricoh, Brother or Xerox, is to clean the machine irregularly. In simple words, it is dirt. It often leads to imbalance of the case, noise appears during operation, or paper picking stops. That is why it is recommended to clean the printing device at regular intervals and only when the equipment is off. But you need to know about the prohibition of the use of alcohol - for wiping we take only ordinary distilled water, a new sponge and cotton swabs.
• We check the correctness of operation: the printer must be plugged in, the tray is pushed in firmly to the very end, the sheet guides are set, the cartridges are correctly installed and there is no jam of foreign objects in the machine.
• Do not be afraid to inspect the inside of the equipment for paper debris or scraps, toner spills, plaster, sand, or water.
• Check the cartridge is full, if it has run out.
• If printer malfunctions are displayed as errors on the computer monitor, be sure to write down the code, number, or information on the screen for transmission to the wizard.
• Pay attention to the print quality of documents, whether there are additional streaks or spots, what color they are.
• Track the frequency of paper chewing.
• Listen for extraneous sounds, crackles, noises when printing.
Having considered all the above nuances, which often lead to the stoppage of the printer's functioning, you can speed up the process of correcting a malfunction, replace the repair procedure with preventive maintenance and save money on a specialist visit. Evaluation of the state of the equipment operability, the exact formulation of the problem and the listing of the problems that have appeared will allow the foreman to respond to the request as quickly as possible, since he will present the amount of work in advance. If this is not a serious breakdown and the situation allows you to repair parts, replace components or restore work quickly - printer repair can be carried out even at the diagnostic stage. By calling the phone number or sending an application through the website YauzaOrgService - assistance will be provided with the provision of a guarantee for all types of operations and services.
Epson CX4300 firmware
Can't see cartridges. Sometimes he sees. The problem is probably with the firmware. I can not find.Epson cx4300 refill cartridge
: help: Faced a problem - presented the Epson cx4300 printer with ink in cartridges.Need help maintaining your Epson Stylus CX4300 MFP
I installed myself Windows 7, 86x. I installed firewood for the Epson Stylus CX4300 MFP.EPSON CX4300 MFP does not “see” the cartridge
Good day, members of the forum. I hope for your help, I understand that.Epson Stylus C65, Epson Stylus CX3900 - second start
Epson Stylus С65 - lying in the trash in the garage, covered in rubbish and dust. Epson Stylus.Is your TV, radio, mobile phone or kettle broken? And you want to create a new topic about this in this forum?
First of all, think about this: imagine that your father / son / brother has an appendicitis pain and you know from the symptoms that it is just appendicitis, but there is no experience of cutting it out, as well as the tool. And you turn on your computer, access the Internet on a medical site with the question: "Help to cut out appendicitis." Do you understand the absurdity of the whole situation? Even if they answer you, it is worth considering factors such as the patient's diabetes, allergies to anesthesia and other medical nuances. I think no one does this in real life and will risk trusting the life of their loved ones with advice from the Internet.
The same is in the repair of radio equipment, although of course these are all the material benefits of modern civilization and in case of unsuccessful repairs, you can always buy a new LCD TV, cell phone, iPAD or computer. And for the repair of such equipment, at least it is necessary to have the appropriate measuring (oscilloscope, multimeter, generator, etc.) and soldering equipment (hairdryer, SMD-hot tweezers, etc.), a schematic diagram, not to mention the necessary knowledge and repair experience.
Let's consider the situation if you are a beginner / advanced radio amateur who solders all sorts of electronic gizmos and has some of the necessary tools. You create an appropriate thread on the repair forum with a short description of “patient symptoms”, ie. for example “Samsung LE40R81B TV does not turn on”. So what? Yes, there can be a lot of reasons for not switching on - from malfunctions in the power system, problems with the processor or flashing firmware in the EEPROM memory.
More advanced users can find the blackened element on the board and attach a photo to the post. However, keep in mind that you replace this radio element with the same one - it is not a fact that your equipment will work. As a rule, something caused the combustion of this element and it could “pull” a couple of other elements along with it, not to mention the fact that it is quite difficult for a non-professional to find a burned-out m / s. Plus, in modern equipment, SMD radio elements are almost universally used, soldering which with an ESPN-40 soldering iron or a Chinese 60-Watt soldering iron you risk overheating the board, peeling tracks, etc. The subsequent restoration of which will be very, very problematic.The purpose of this post is not any PR of repair shops, but I want to convey to you that sometimes self-repair can be more expensive than taking it to a professional workshop. Although, of course, this is your money and what is better or more risky is up to you.
If you nevertheless decide that you are able to independently repair the radio equipment, then when creating a post, be sure to indicate the full name of the device, modification, year of manufacture, country of origin and other detailed information. If there is a diagram, then attach it to the post or give a link to the source. Write down how long the symptoms have been manifesting, whether there were surges in the supply voltage network, whether there was a repair before that, what was done, what was checked, voltage measurements, oscillograms, etc. From a photo of a motherboard, as a rule, there is little sense, from a photo of a motherboard taken on a mobile phone there is no sense at all. Telepaths live in other forums.
Before creating a post, be sure to use the search on the forum and on the Internet. Read the relevant topics in the subsections, perhaps your problem is typical and has already been discussed. Be sure to read the article Repair strategyThe format of your post should be as follows:
Topics with the title “Help fix the Sony TV” with the content “broken” and a couple of blurred photos of the unscrewed back cover, taken with the 7th iPhone, at night, with a resolution of 8000x6000 pixels are immediately deleted. The more information about the breakdown you put in a post, the more chances you will get a competent answer. Understand that the forum is a system of gratuitous mutual assistance in solving problems and if you are dismissive of writing your post and do not follow the above tips, then the answers to it will be appropriate, if anyone wants to answer at all. Also note that no one should answer instantly or within a day, say, no need to write after 2 hours “That no one can help”, etc. In this case, the topic will be deleted immediately.
You should make every effort to find a breakdown on your own before you get stuck and decide to go to the forum. If you outline the whole process of finding a breakdown in your topic, then the chance of getting help from a highly qualified specialist will be very great.If you decide to take your broken equipment to the nearest workshop, but do not know where, then perhaps our online cartographic service will help you: workshops on the map (on the left, press all buttons except “Workshops”). You can leave and view user reviews for workshops.
Video (click to play). For repairmen and workshops: you can add your services to the map. Find your object on the map from the satellite and click on it with the left mouse button. In the field “Object type:” do not forget to change to “Equipment repair”. Adding is absolutely free! All objects are checked and moderated. A discussion of the service is here.
Offline
Info
