In detail: do-it-yourself epson cx4300 printer repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
STARTCOPY CONFERENCE
Printers, copiers, MFPs, faxes and other office equipment:
repair, maintenance, refueling, selection
He became the owner of an ancient but cult inkjet, was kept with his relatives, almost used up cartridges, but did not print for a very long time, about a year.
I decided to revive the article.
I did everything according to the instructions, it's already the second day, 3 colors have not opened.
The first one (Cyan) opened the same hour after the start of the procedure. the rest do not (((
Maybe you should change the recipe of the muscle yourself and add, for example, 95% medical alcohol, or ammonia?
Remove and soak for a few hours. Try to draw out the ink, then blow it (without fanaticism). Soak again. Repeat procedure.
If it does not help, use an ultrasound bath.
Did not help? Throw away and order on Ali. The price of the issue is within 1000 rubles.
Try to draw out the ink
Is it to be pumped out with a syringe?
then purge (without bigotry)
Is it to be given with a syringe with a solution?
The CX4300 has very harmful heads. The percentage of successful flushing, about 20%.
(2)
DestroyER (2): Is it to be pumped out with a syringe? Yes
DestroyER (2): Is it to be given with a syringe with a solution? push without much effort.
(3) Conventional PG from Epson. There are completely dried up, especially on yellow. And here the vehicle stood for only a year, and even with cartridges. Chances are good.
With the original cartridges installed (even when they run out), the device can stand on the cabinet for several years. Then it rinses off easily.
Boris (3): CX4300 has very bad heads. My percentage is a bit different - about 90-95%.
DestroyER (2): give a syringe with a solution? Exactly. Syringe at least 10 ml, and better (safer) 20 ml. During my practice, I inflated 2-3 such heads with a bubble, their subsequent analysis showed the futility of washing. All heads were dried after compatible cartridges.
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Video (click to play). |
(5) After which it is easy to rinse.
. It was getting dark. It was the third day of soaking and the second day of soaking the head. No results.
Read the article, the process is not poorly described only for Canon heads, but the principle is the same for everyone. https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1351/canon/promyvka-pechatayushhej-golovki-pixma.html
(7) Ha! I read it, went to the pharmacy, bought ammonia, added a cube to the bowl where my head gets wet - after half an hour Magenta showed signs of life)))
We continue to observe.
Hello gentlemen.
Tell me how you can fix the glitch yourself (if possible).
EPSON CX4300 Printer. native ink.
It produces horizontal and vertical stripes on sheets.
At first there were small and colored squares.
I cleared my head.
Carried out the calibration.
Now huge black bars. Black ink is almost at zero.
Here is an example: 
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Episode (26th April 2010 – 07:32 PM) wrote:
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Seryoga Donetsky (27th April 2010 – 06:27 PM) wrote:
It will fit, of course. This is not a very common model, moreover, a little (so to speak) outdated. But it is a tank that, if you approach it correctly, will chew through more than one hundred thousand sheets. СХ3700 threshes in the office reports of 200-500 pages per day, when reporting, after - two weeks of rest. Not the first year already.
Seryoga Donetsky (27th April 2010 – 06:27 PM) wrote:
Epson inkjet printers are prone to frequent blockages - this is an indisputable fact. Suspensions in ink, air bubbles, excessive vaporization, dust from paper and many more implicit and annoying reasons can be the reason. One of them, by the way, the main one, is a long simple printer on the table idle.
Before starting any printing, if you are interested in a normal result, you need to check the operation of the printer's print head using the nozzle pattern. Such a template is printed using regular means through the driver, or by pressing certain buttons (see the instructions for the printer) on the printer case.
Ready-to-print printer:
And in this case, obvious blockages in the printer's print head are a disease of any Epson inkjet model:
At different times, different Epson models had different patterns: from thin lines, from thick ones, large, small, even with solid colored squares, but the meaning of such a check has not changed - if you see gaps and gaps, then the printer is clogged. Such blockages will appear on prints as color stripes across the image or excessive graininess, generally parasitic, spoiling the appearance of the print, information.
As for the quality of the ink, Epson's native ink, especially in the first year of operation, clogs the printer much less than its counterparts. This is also a fact, although third-party manufacturers tend to improve the quality of their product, and decent ink samples come across on the market, but no one has yet “cracked” Epson's secret.
But in reality, the printer still gets clogged, and since we are more likely to deal with CISS and analog ink, then we will encounter cleaning the print head more often.
The print head of the printer on the carriage and the aired CISS:
The easiest blockage is the absence of several bands in the check pattern. This is treated with one or two cleanings. If the printer is aged, then a “walking” blockage is possible - that is, after cleaning, the segments appear on the template, and immediately disappear after printing. In this case, you need to charge the cartridges or CISS to the eyeballs and let them stand for a considerable time. It helps 90% of the time. But before that, you need to make sure that the fittings on the print head (where the cartridges are inserted) are clean, without mud scale.
It is impossible to clean (that is, through the standard cleaning function) for a long time. Three, four, but five times is already the limit. Further, undesirable temperature processes will begin to occur in the head, and then you will definitely have to put the printer aside for a week.
It makes sense in case of specific color disappearances after one or two cleaning passes to start up such a printout at the highest quality.
For grayscale (that is, to restore black):
The type of paper specified in the driver only matters so that the driver allows you to set the maximum dpi. At the same time, you can also print on regular 80 g / m paper in full width.
When cleaning, pay attention to a few things.
The entire print head path must be kept clean:The paralon should not bulge, and of course there should be no debris. The photo shows just a sample of a rather dirty printer, and of course the percentage of blockages is higher. It is recommended to organize the output of waste ink to the outside, and not to the internal diaper.
Another important point is the parking space (the picture shows a very dirty sample):
This is a fundamentally important part of the printer. On such a platform, movable with springs and sensors, the printer parks the print head in rest mode. Naturally, over time, you will not find anything there - hair, dust, lumps, even animal hair. That is, the cleanliness in this place of the printer must also be monitored and very carefully wiped with an alcohol solution. You can collect dirt from fittings and landings with a syringe, drawing sewage inside. But cotton wool on a stick can leave a parasitic pile, so be careful with this.
Cleaning with flushing liquids
There are commercially available special liquids for washing the printheads. Previously, they were replaced by a weak solution of ammonia, now the heads have become technologically more complicated, and it makes sense to insure yourself by buying such a liquid:Using "flushing" does not cause any difficulties. The main thing is to choose the right type of ink for your printer. Old epsons were generally cleaned with everything, except of course alcohol (too aggressive environment).
The flushing liquid is poured into the cartridge, and the printer is allowed to stand overnight.In very difficult cases, clean through regular cleaning, as well as print color prints at the highest resolution. You can also dilute the ink with this liquid if you need to preserve the printer for a considerable period.In severe cases, it is better to remove the head and immerse its lower part in a container with flushing fluid.
Print head purge
Blowing makes sense to use when nothing helps - the check template displays an empty sheet, and there is no hope of getting at least some dashes on it.You can purge with dropper hoses or carefully with a syringe. To supply air carefully, without saliva and water - there is a very high risk, especially in later models, to permanently kill the printer head.
Many people have EPSON inkjet printers at home. During the operation of printers, malfunctions of varying complexity may occur. Of course, this article will not solve all the problems, but it will allow you to objectively assess your strengths and capabilities when repairing a printer. Allows you to set the direction of troubleshooting.
Let's start with the theory of inkjet printing.
Epson applied the principle of squeezing out a drop of ink; as a piston, the property of a piezoelectric element is used to change its shape when a voltage is applied to it.
The advantage of such printing is the ability to place the nozzles very close to each other and get a high print resolution. Disadvantages - very high requirements for the ink used (in terms of fluidity, dye dispersion, drying time); as a result, the cost of these inks is quite high. Therefore, users are trying to use inks from other manufacturers.
To keep the cost of ink down, Epson's competitors are making the technology cheaper; perhaps the parameters cannot be reproduced (“know-how”, however!). And the result is "on the face", or rather, in the head (printer's head): the nozzles get clogged, the ink itself dries up.
Now let's move on to an overview of tips and tricks gleaned from StartCopy.
Tip one - use of an ultrasonic bath for washing the head. I didn’t use it myself, but here are the conclusions I drew from the tips for use: first you need to find or buy a bath somewhere, then experiment with the printer head (immersion depth, soaking time, liquid composition), and if you have one printer (say, home ), then any unsuccessful experiment leads to the failure of the head (and printer) forever. Is it worth the bother?!
Tip two - washing the head under pressure.
The technique is as follows: draw fluid into the syringe to clean the head and, gently pressing on the piston, try to pierce the nozzles. If the nozzles are not very dry, then this method will help; and if not, the piezoelectric elements will burst, and - goodbye, head!
Method three , tested personally. based on the use of the technique recommended by the manufacturer himself: the use of a pump that is available on all Epson printers.
To begin with, we will stock up on a sufficient amount of liquid for washing the heads (0.5-1 l), since the larger the packaging, the cheaper the unit volume of liquid is. Then we partially disassemble the printer so that you can get to the parking hub. We force the head to move to the side and drip liquid onto the foam rubber in the parking unit, return everything to its place and leave it to soak for several hours. It is better to return the head when the printer is turned off so that the pump does not pump out the flushing liquid - it's too early yet.
Then turn on the printer and let it run a cleaning cycle. We print a control sheet. If the result is unsatisfactory, we prepare several syringes (preferably a smaller volume - 2 ml) and saw off the upper part of one syringe. We fill the syringe with foam rubber, remove the cartridge and put this syringe on the ink intake instead of the cartridge. Pour liquid into the syringe and give the printer several commands to pump; you can even print; then return the cartridges to their place.
I sometimes pour liquid into the cartridge itself (2-3 ml, closer to the intake) - the ink in the cartridge also dries out. Then I give the command to pump with this ink - and that's it, in 90% of cases this technology helps.
If the described measures still did not help, then we remove the head and try to rinse it with a syringe, but we focus not on squeezing out dried ink (what the pump did), but on sucking ink from the head. If a result appears - say, 70% of nozzles print - we buy original ink: they should finally clean out what we failed to do.
And only then we put compatible ink - and save, save, save (until the problems appear again).
Unfortunately, the original ink is not a panacea for all ills: they dry in the nozzles just as well as compatible ones - for example, they went on vacation, and hello to the head; you've got a problem.
And now about the sad part: the developers at Epson are not asleep, they have launched polymer ink, which does not seem to be washed off and does not fade. But if they are dried up in the head, how do you order them to be picked out from there?
Separately - about resetting the sump overflow counter (in everyday life, "diaper").
I recommend starting and finishing all work with this procedure; and if necessary, then change the filler itself in the sump.
What to use as a filler? The scope for fantasy is the largest: from the original to medical cotton.
Well, if we touched on diapers, then it makes sense to talk about the prevention of the printer as a whole.
Prevention of the mechanics of an inkjet printer is not much different from the prevention of a matrix printer; only here, perhaps, there is more dirt - this is both spilled or splashed ink, and paper dust. All together it gives an "excellent" result: the dirt is coked in the mechanics until the printer is completely out of order.
Regarding the selection of lubricant for the guide, I will say the following: ideally, you need a lubricant for precision mechanics (watch oil); earlier in hardware stores they sold oil for sewing machines - it will also work. Now it’s really possible to buy gun oil.
In the guides, you need to change or wash the felt rings or gaskets (depending on the model).
Separately, I will say about the parking space of the head. I have already mentioned the foam rubber in the parking lot above, but be sure to pay attention to the elastic that is pressed against the head: it should not be dirty so that the clamp is as tight as possible - then the ink will dry out later during long-term storage.
Particular attention is paid to the knife that cleans the head: there should also be no dried ink there.
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Epson Stylus CX4300 - cult MFP, at one time it was a particularly popular model, at the moment only the Canon Pixma MP250/280 can compare with its popularity. I have already written a lot about him, but I couldn’t gather my strength and do disassembly instructions this device, I finally matured and I hope that the instructions will be useful to many, because. knowing how to understand CX4300 it will not be difficult to disassemble any other Epson MFP of this class.
1. I start disassembling this MFP by removing the scanner unit. In order to remove the scanner unit, you must first remove the scanner unit lock:
2. We remove the scanner unit itself from the hinges, for this we pry off the right hinge with a flat screwdriver, as shown in the photo below:
to remove it from the left hinge, pull the scanner unit to the left side and up:
3. The scanner was removed, now we proceed to remove the upper part of the case and the control panel, for this we need to unscrew a number of screws, the photo below shows the screws that we must unscrew (marked with green circles) - unscrew:
4. Having unscrewed the necessary screws, remove the upper part of the case while holding the scanner unit. it remains connected to the control board. In order to remove the upper part of the case, you will have to make some efforts - with moderate force we pull it up by the section of the case shown below:
5. After removing the top of the case, you get this picture:
now we turn off the cables indicated by the green arrows, finally remove the upper part of the case and the scanner unit, as a result we should see the following picture:
6. Now our task is to disconnect the lower part of the case from the printer itself, so we begin to unscrew the screws marked with green circles:
and picking in the places shown below, we separate the lower part of the case from the printer:
in the end you should get something like this:
7. Now our task is to remove the rail and carriage for cartridges, or rather, separate this mechanism from the main part, so we unscrew it once:
remove the timing belt from the engine:
remove the guide roller (diven pulley) of the drive belt, which interferes in order to unscrew one of the screws:
unscrew 2 more marked screws:
remove the plastic guide of the paper feed roller, for this we unscrew one screw and by pressing the latch it can be easily removed:
by disconnecting the connectors from the printer formatter board:
finally, it becomes possible to remove the rail and carriage for cartridges and everything adjacent to these parts:
The result should look like this:
8. Remove the paper feed blade (Hopper), this does not require special knowledge, just help with a flat screwdriver to pull it out of the groove:
9. We remove the parking lot (Cap Assy), for this you need to snap off the 2nd latches:
10. We remove the pump (Pump Assy), for this you need to release it from 2 latches:
11. Well, in conclusion, we remove the paper feed mechanism (ASF Unit), freeing it from several latches:
As a result, we get an almost completely disassembled Epson Stylus CX4300, we have considered the main and difficult points. If there is a need to replace or flush the absorber, then we also got to it:
On this, I consider the disassembly of the Epson Stylus CX4300 multifunctional printer to be completed, if you have any questions or corrections - write, explain and supplement.
You may also find the following materials on Epson Stylus CX4300 useful:
Epson Stylus CX4300 - cult MFP, at one time it was a particularly popular model, at the moment only the Canon Pixma MP250/280 can compare with its popularity. I have already written a lot about him, but I couldn’t gather my strength and do everything disassembly instructions this device, I finally matured and I hope that the instructions will be useful to many, because. knowing how to understand CX4300 it will not be difficult to disassemble any other Epson MFP of this class.
1. I start disassembling this MFP by removing the scanner unit. In order to remove the scanner unit, you must first remove the scanner unit lock:
2. We remove the scanner unit itself from the hinges, for this we pry off the right hinge with a flat screwdriver, as shown in the photo below:
to remove it from the left hinge, pull the scanner unit to the left side and up:
3. The scanner was removed, now we proceed to remove the upper part of the case and the control panel, for this we need to unscrew a number of screws, the photo below shows the screws that we must unscrew (marked with green circles) - unscrew:
4. Having unscrewed the necessary screws, remove the upper part of the case while holding the scanner unit. it remains connected to the control board. In order to remove the upper part of the case, you will have to make some efforts - with moderate force we pull it up by the section of the case shown below:
5. After removing the top of the case, you get this picture:
now we turn off the cables indicated by the green arrows, finally remove the upper part of the case and the scanner unit, as a result we should see the following picture:
6. Now our task is to disconnect the lower part of the case from the printer itself, so we begin to unscrew the screws marked with green circles:
and picking in the places shown below, we separate the lower part of the case from the printer:
in the end you should get something like this:
7. Now our task is to remove the rail and carriage for cartridges, or rather, separate this mechanism from the main part, so we unscrew it once:
remove the timing belt from the engine:
remove the guide roller (diven pulley) of the drive belt, which interferes in order to unscrew one of the screws:
unscrew 2 more marked screws:
remove the plastic guide of the paper feed roller, for this we unscrew one screw and by pressing the latch it can be easily removed:
by disconnecting the connectors from the printer formatter board:
finally, it becomes possible to remove the rail and carriage for cartridges and everything adjacent to these parts:
The result should look like this:
8. Remove the paper feed blade (Hopper), this does not require special knowledge, just help with a flat screwdriver to pull it out of the groove:
9. We remove the parking lot (Cap Assy), for this you need to snap off the 2nd latches:
10. We remove the pump (Pump Assy), for this you need to release it from 2 latches:
11. Well, in conclusion, we remove the paper feed mechanism (ASF Unit), freeing it from several latches:
As a result, we get an almost completely disassembled Epson Stylus CX4300, we have considered the main and difficult points. If there is a need to replace or flush the absorber, then we also got to it:
On this, I consider the disassembly of the Epson Stylus CX4300 multifunctional printer to be completed, if you have any questions or corrections - write, explain and supplement.
You may also find the following materials on Epson Stylus CX4300 useful:
Do-it-yourself printer repair - what can be done at hometo save on calling a wizard or sending a printing device to a service center? Not all problems can be solved on your own, but there are things that you can diagnose yourself. However, do not forget that a serious malfunction can only be identified and corrected by the hands of a specialist with extensive experience and a specialized tool for carrying out the relevant work. Repair of printers by service center engineers YauzaOrgService guarantees high quality and speed of service without overpayments. But what can be found at home?
• The most common cause of printer failure, whether Canon, HP, Epson, Oki, Samsung, Ricoh, Brother, or Xerox, is to clean the machine regularly. In simple terms, it's rubbish. Because of it, an unbalance of the case often occurs, noise appears during operation, or paper capture stops. That is why it is recommended to clean the printing device at regular intervals and only when the equipment is turned off. But you need to know about the prohibition of the use of alcohol - for wiping we take only ordinary distilled water, a new sponge and cotton swabs.
• We check the correct operation: the printer must be plugged in, the tray is firmly pushed in to the very end, the sheet guides are set, the cartridges are correctly installed and there is no jamming of foreign objects in the device.
• Don't be afraid to inspect the inside of the equipment for paper residue or torn pieces, toner spills, plaster, sand, or water.
• Check the cartridge is full to see if it has run out.
• If printer malfunctions are displayed as errors on the computer monitor, be sure to write down the code, number, or information from the screen for transmission to the wizard.
• Pay attention to the print quality of your documents, whether there are additional streaks or spots, what color they are.
• Monitor the frequency of paper jams.
• Listen for extraneous sounds, crackles, noise when printing.
Having considered all the above nuances, which often lead to a stop in the operation of the printer, you can speed up the process of correcting the malfunction, replace the repair procedure with prevention and save money on the visit of a specialist. An assessment of the state of the equipment’s performance, an accurate statement of the problem and a listing of the problems that have appeared will allow the master to respond to the request as quickly as possible, since he will present the scope of work in advance. If this is not a serious breakdown and the situation allows you to repair parts, replace components or restore operation quickly - printer repair can be carried out at the diagnostic stage. By calling the phone number or sending a request through the website YauzaOrgService – assistance will be provided with a guarantee for all types of operations and services performed.
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Good day, forum users. I hope for your help, I understand that u.Epson Stylus С65, Epson Stylus CX3900 – second start
Epson Stylus C65 - lying in the garage in the trash, covered in debris and dust. Epson style.Is your TV, radio, mobile phone or kettle broken? And you want to create a new topic on this forum about it?
First of all, think about this: imagine that your father / son / brother has an appendicitis and you know from the symptoms that it is appendicitis, but there is no experience of cutting it out, as well as no tool. And you turn on the computer, go online to a medical site with the question: "Help cut out appendicitis." Do you understand the absurdity of the whole situation? Even if they answer you, it is worth considering such factors as the presence of diabetes in the patient, allergies to anesthesia and other medical nuances. I think no one does this in real life and will risk trusting the lives of their loved ones with advice from the Internet.
The same is true in the repair of radio equipment, although of course these are all the material benefits of modern civilization, and in case of unsuccessful repairs, you can always buy a new LCD TV, cell phone, iPAD or computer. And to repair such equipment, at least you need to have the appropriate measuring (oscilloscope, multimeter, generator, etc.) and soldering equipment (hair dryer, SMD thermal tweezers, etc.), a circuit diagram, not to mention the necessary knowledge and repair experience.
Let's take a look at the situation if you are a beginner/advanced radio amateur soldering all sorts of electronic things and having some of the necessary tools. You create an appropriate topic on the repair forum with a brief description of the "symptoms of the patient's illness", i.e. for example “Samsung LE40R81B TV does not turn on”. So what? Yes, there can be a lot of reasons for not turning on - from problems in the power system, problems with the processor, or flashing firmware in the EEPROM memory.
More advanced users can find a blackened element on the board and attach a photo to the post. However, keep in mind that you will replace this radio element with the same one - it is not yet a fact that your equipment will work. As a rule, something caused the combustion of this element and it could “pull” a couple of other elements along with it, not to mention the fact that finding a burnt m / s is quite difficult for a non-professional. Plus, in modern equipment, SMD radio elements are almost universally used, by soldering which with an ESPN-40 soldering iron or a Chinese 60-watt soldering iron, you risk overheating the board, peeling off the tracks, etc. The subsequent recovery of which will be very, very problematic.The purpose of this post is not any PR for repair shops, but I want to convey to you that sometimes self-repair can be more expensive than taking it to a professional workshop. Although of course it is your money and what is better or riskier is up to you to decide.
If you nevertheless decide that you are able to repair the radio equipment yourself, then when creating a post, be sure to indicate the full name of the device, modification, year of manufacture, country of origin and other detailed information. If there is a diagram, then attach it to the post or give a link to the source. Write how long the symptoms have been manifesting, whether there were surges in the power supply network, whether there was a repair before, what was done, what was checked, voltage measurements, oscillograms, etc. From the photo of the board, as a rule, there is little sense, from the photograph of the board taken on a mobile phone there is no sense at all. Telepaths live in other forums.
Before creating a post, be sure to use the search on the forum and on the Internet. Read the relevant topics in the subsections, perhaps your problem is typical and has already been discussed. Be sure to read the Repair Strategy articleThe format of your post should be as follows:
Topics with the title “Help me fix my Sony TV” with the content “broken” and a couple of blurry photos of the unscrewed back cover, taken on the 7th iPhone, at night, with a resolution of 8000x6000 pixels, are immediately deleted. The more information about the breakdown you put in the post, the more likely you will get a competent answer. Understand that a forum is a system of gratuitous mutual help in solving problems and if you neglect to write your post and do not follow the above tips, then the answers to it will be appropriate, if anyone wants to answer at all. Also keep in mind that no one should answer instantly or within, say, a day, no need to write after 2 hours “That no one can help”, etc. In this case, the topic will be deleted immediately.
You should make every effort to find the breakdown yourself before you reach a dead end and decide to turn to the forum. If you outline the entire process of finding a breakdown in your topic, then the chance of getting help from a highly qualified specialist will be very high.If you decide to take your broken equipment to the nearest workshop, but don’t know where, then our online cartographic service may help you: workshops on the map (on the left, press all the buttons except “Workshops”). To the workshops, you can leave and view reviews from users.
Video (click to play). For repairers and workshops: you can add your services to the map. On the map, find your object from the satellite and click on it with the left mouse button. In the “Object type:” field, do not forget to change it to “Equipment repair”. Adding is absolutely free! All objects are checked and moderated. Service discussion here.
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