DIY hp laserjet 6l printer repair

These Hewlett Packard products are the most widespread laser printers and, as a result, the most repairable. In this article I will try to describe as fully as possible the most common repairs to these printers.

Structurally, the printer is made in blocks on a supporting frame, which greatly facilitates the work of an engineer.
Before starting work, it is necessary to accurately determine the brand of the printer. Due to the similarity of the 5L and 6L models, some service centers assemble one of two printers of different models. As a rule, the 6L case is newer, and the 5L parts are more complete, the result is something in between, misleading. It is very simple to distinguish 5L from 6L: at the bottom of the printer there is a plate with a code in which line C3941A says that it is 5L, and C3990A - that it is 6L. Pay attention to the year of manufacture: if the nameplate indicates 1995 or 1996, then the printer needs complete maintenance, regardless of the condition.

Major malfunctions and their elimination.

'Width =' 8 'height =' 8 '/> HP LaserJet 6L, cartridge problem

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try to change the toner (maybe the wrong one, or just poor quality).

... Rebuild the cartridge, maybe I put something in the wrong place (not so).
pay attention to contacts

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Good afternoon. the same printer costs the Laser Jet 6L. and had the same problem. First of all, I changed the drum unit in the cartridge. Then it came to a complete disassembly of the printer (thank God that it can be easily disassembled) and cleaning the entire printer from the inside. especially you need to carefully and carefully look at the stove itself, whether the film is torn on it. In my case, everything was whole. after cleaning and assembly. the printer came to life. Moreover, be careful not to touch the drum unit with your hands. And it takes several sheets of paper, most likely because the rubber roller has already dried out and cracked from time to time.

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the first step is to change the toner. first clean out the old toner cartridge completely. and refill with normal toner.

at the moment, you have the opportunity, if nothing is done, to replace the stove (in the purchase

$ 150). So think faster. On the future, you do not know how not to take it. Miser pays twice.

admin » 22:21 – 03.09.05

HP LaserJet 6L Laser Printer - Troubleshooting

I hope this article will help the owners of the mentioned printers (as well as LJ1100 printers, which are not very different in this respect from their older brothers) to understand the nature of the malfunction, try to fix it on their own and only then ask for “help from the expert club”.

First, a little general information.

First of all, let me remind you of the purpose of the indication and control elements:

Upper indicator (yellow) - ERROR (error)
Middle indicator (green) - DATA (data)
Bottom indicator (green) - READY
Control button

I will not list the simplest errors - they are described in detail in the manual supplied with each printer.

Note that errors associated with misfeed or paper jams are sometimes associated with a malfunction of the corresponding sensors (see figure) or a lack of contact in their circuits.

There is also a certain “secret button” (SW201) in the printer, located on the DC controller board.This button is accessed through a hole in the front of the printer; when pressed, an “engine test” is printed - a page with vertical lines. This test is needed to cut off errors of the formatter board, which is not involved in printing the test.
The location of the button and the appearance of the printed sheet are shown below.

For especially meticulous owners of printers, I will give the terms of "life" of some parts of the printer.

From the author: I know that the reader has already opened his mouth to ask me a question: “Where have you seen the feed rollers go for 50 thousand?”. I’ll answer right away: such rollers (as well as rollers, thermal films, etc.) are found, apparently, only at Hewlett Packard. Or maybe their paper is different? Or is the air itself “over the hill” good for HP products? In our country, if problems with paper feeding or damage to the thermal film are not observed after 30-35 thousand printed sheets, the owner of the printer can consider himself lucky. Who does not believe - leaf through the "Conference", where the questions "the printer feeds paper in a bundle" or "which thermal film is better" are also frequent guests.

Let's go back to the printer errors. In the event that all three indicators are on (“critical error”), manual sarcastically suggests contacting “HP technical support”. And since not everyone has such an opportunity (or desire), another question appears in our “Conference”.

So, a terrible thing happened: all three indicators on the printer are on (constantly); the error is not cleared either by the button or by turning off the power. Press the button; by the state of the indicators, we are looking for the required row in the table:

* In fact, a break in the heater circuit can be caused not only by a malfunction of the heating element itself: two thermal fuses located in the fuser unit are connected in series with it. Their purpose, like any fuse, is to operate in extreme situations. And, consequently, according to the good Russian tradition, they can be replaced “at random” with a “bug”. Only in this case, the brave experimenter risks getting from his printer some semblance of a boiling samovar (especially if both thermal fuses are faulty at once).
** But where to get the DC controller, formatter, etc., the author cannot say. Most likely, you will have to contact the same HP service center. If anyone has experience repairing these devices on their own, please share with your readers.

From the author: The information provided here is information for thought - and nothing more. The author of the article is not responsible for the consequences of unskilled intervention in the printer's body.

admin » 22:22 – 03.09.05

HP LaserJet 6L Laser Printer - Troubleshooting

These Hewlett Packard products are the most widespread laser printers and, as a result, the most repairable. In this article I will try to describe as fully as possible the most common repairs to these printers.

Structurally, the printer is made in blocks on a supporting frame, which greatly facilitates the work of an engineer.
Before starting work, it is necessary to accurately determine the brand of the printer. Due to the similarity of the 5L and 6L models, some service centers assemble one of two printers of different models. As a rule, the 6L case is newer, and the 5L parts are more complete, the result is something in between, misleading. It is very simple to distinguish 5L from 6L: at the bottom of the printer there is a plate with a code in which line C3941A says that it is 5L, and C3990A - that it is 6L. Pay attention to the year of manufacture: if the nameplate indicates 1995 or 1996, then the printer needs complete maintenance, regardless of the condition.

Dismantling the printer should start with removing the case:

1. Remove the front panel, which is held in place by two pins. The left pin is located on a movable bar, by pressing on which, you can remove the cover with a forward movement towards you.
2. There are two screws on the top under the front cover; unscrew them and turn the printer with the back side facing you.
3. At the back there are two screws for the plastic and one for the iron, unscrew them. Pull out the paper holder of the input tray up.Next, we open six latches: two on the feed tray on the right and left (pay attention to the indentations for the screwdriver), two below the indicated latches by 1.5 cm and two more at the level of the decorative legs. Remove the back cover.
4. Remove the main body key, which is fastened with a latch on the bottom of the printer, and remove the main body of the printer, which is fastened with two latches located at the bottom under the front cover.
5. We disassemble the printer feed:

Major malfunctions and their elimination.

Quite often I have to notice that old-fashioned devices are still actively used. And the point here, in my opinion, is not so much in saving as in attachment to familiar and almost familiar things. So you have to contemplate in offices and homes printers that have long been out of production. However, nothing is eternal, and over time, various malfunctions appear in the device, and natural wear and tear makes it unusable. Firms, as a rule, are able to splurge on new equipment, but what to do when there is not enough money even to take the device to the service? It is in this case that you can try your hand. Minimum system requirements: skillful hands and a bright head on the shoulders.

A bit of history

In September 1995, Hewlett-Packard introduced its new laser printer. The LaserJet 5L had a print speed of up to 4 ppm and a first print out time of 23 seconds. The monthly load reached 4 thousand copies. For the present times, the numbers are not impressive, but nevertheless, it is unlikely that a modern student with his coursework will exceed such a limit.

Introduced in June 1997, the new LaserJet 6L featured faster print speeds of 6 ppm and monthly print throughput of up to 6,000 copies. Due to the increased speed of operation, power consumption increased from 100 W to 150. Some design changes were also made that did not affect the appearance of the device.

Why should you note power consumption? But because this indicator is now one of the most important for Europeans and, I hope, will become such in the foreseeable future for us as well - we still need to save electricity.

Despite the fact that these printers were released about ten years ago, they are still used today. Recently I tried to find some old printer on the flea markets of the Internet and found out that such models are still on sale. Their cost ranges from 500 to 2500 rubles. depending on the state. Why didn't they go out of circulation? Probably because they are reliable and easy to operate, as well as cheap to maintain and do not require expensive consumables. So where to buy and how to use a printer like this?

Acquisition

First, let's find out why you might need this obsolete printer. Most likely, it will be useful for students to this day. Judge for yourself. The printer can be purchased relatively cheaply. Even if a minor malfunction is found, it is easy to fix it - parts are not too expensive sold in stores. And how to make minor repairs will be discussed later.

For the practical person, of course, the most important aspect is cheap exploitation. The cost of one bottle of toner is about 70 rubles. It should be enough for 2-2.5 thousand copies with 5% filling of the sheet with text, ie. the unit cost of one print is 3.5 kopecks. (not counting paper). However, the legacy printer has one drawback - the small amount of memory. For those who don't know it, a printer is a kind of computer with a processor, memory and interfaces. Therefore, the more powerful the processor and the more memory, the wider the possibilities.

This means that due to the small amount of memory, which is 1 MB, the printer cannot print "weighty" files, be it pictures or large Excel tables. The device will simply refuse to complete the task or distort the information. Of course, it is possible to expand the memory with a special card inserted into the slot on the left side of the printer. But finding the map itself is not easy. Do not forget that such printers were out of production a long time ago and even HP employees themselves hardly remember them.

If you are going to buy a printer, then keep in mind that you should pay attention to the electronic filling, the laser unit and the fuser (fusing unit, or fuser), which will be very expensive to replace.

Without working electronics (with a "killed" printed circuit board or a "killed" power supply), the printer will not turn on. You will notice this immediately. If everything seems to work, then some simple operations should be performed - print a test page of the printer itself and a test page from the operating system. In the first case, you need to press the button on the device body or the button of the "engineering" page under the printer cover (Fig. 3). In the second case, select (in Windows XP) "Start • Printers and Faxes • Hp lj 5l (or the name of the printer that you are going to test) • Properties • Test print".

In order not to get trapped, follow these simple steps. In the case of a test print via the internal driver, the character set page should appear and be readable. Otherwise, the chances are that the formatter board is defective, and replacing it will cost you almost more than a new printer.

The test itself is also worth paying close attention to. Letters should be clear, black, and certainly not gray or white. If they are faint, then either there is a problem with the laser unit or the power supply, or the toner is not suitable for the printer. In the case of a bad toner, the situation is not so critical (it is, in the end, easy to replace), but when one of the important units fails, it’s already sad.

Sometimes toner underbaking is also encountered - if you rub the print with your fingernail, the toner will come off the sheet. This may indicate, again, an inappropriate toner, the polymerization temperature of which is much higher, or poor operation of the fuser. Repairing this item can also empty your pocket. Although if you are an enthusiastic repairman - the cards are in your hands.

The best way to find out who is to blame, a cartridge or a printer, is by elimination and supply a known good cartridge. I understand that if a person is going to buy a printer, then he is unlikely to have a "spare wheel", but nevertheless. Show your dexterity, then you will be calmer. Suddenly, someone you know has something similar.

So you bought this printer, and so on.

Exploitation

One of my acquaintances calls the 5L and 6L printers "oak". Indeed, these units do not care. Perhaps, in the past, manufacturers were less chasing after profit and paid more attention to the quality of their products. And the plastic was stronger, and the gears were more reliable. However, there are ways to extend the life of the device.

First, be careful. Paper clips are the thunderstorm of all printers (just like mice are for elephants). In addition to these little things, we had to pull out more intricate things: the remains of flowers or a hearty meal, cockroaches and other insects (mainly these animals tend to the heat emanating from the printer after its work). The latter can radically disrupt the operation of the apparatus. Therefore, buy means of dealing with these "pets".

Second, choose good quality paper. This consumable directly affects the life of the cartridge and the printer as a whole. We often saw the disastrous result of using second-rate paper. And although many do not believe that the parts can be damaged by paper, nevertheless, the drum of the cartridge and the paper feed shaft are the first to suffer, and the fuser also suffers. My advice to you is to choose a better paper, not the cheapest. I do not recommend buying the brands "Ballet" and "Snegurochka". They are (at the time of this writing) blacklisted.

Third, keep an eye on the optimal temperature and humidity in the room where the printer is operating. Toner consumption depends on this, as well as its consistency, so to speak. Being a hygroscopic substance, toner quickly absorbs moisture and becomes unusable, which affects the print. At elevated temperatures, such as near a heating device, toner may “bake”. This affects the quality of copies and the health of the device itself.Poor toner can lead to rapid wear of the cartridge fotovale, as well as cause damage to other parts of the machine. And this is again the cost. Note that air is required to the interior of the printer for ventilation. So you should surround it with free space (do not occupy at least 5 cm around the device).

What else should you pay attention to? Of course, to be honest. Dust, toner, scraps of paper, and other debris should be kept away from the inside of the product. All this can lead to wear of the printer mechanisms. Hence the conclusion: keep the office and home clean and tidy. This, by the way, will please not only the printer, but also your clients and household members.

I would also highly recommend using a grounded line. An electrical charge is constantly accumulating on the metal frame of the printer, which is located under the plastic housing. In the best case, this will be reflected in the quality of the print (although for the accounting department it sometimes looks like death), and in the worst case, it will affect your health. Plus, I advise you to use a high-quality surge protector, not an extension cord.

So, to summarize. HP 5L and 6L printers are quite common on the market. They are beneficial for small office staff and students as they are quite economical to maintain and operate. In addition, they are generally easy to find on the used goods market. If you follow the simple recommendations given above, you will be able to choose a workable model for yourself and ensure its functionality for a long time.

Part 3. Repair and maintenance of the HP LaserJet 5L / 6L printer In the last issue we talked about refilling the cartridge for the HP LaserJet 5L / 6L printer. The procedure is not very complicated and saves on consumables.

In the last issue we talked about refilling a cartridge for the HP LaserJet 5L / 6L printer. The procedure is not very complicated and saves on consumables.

These printers have been in operation for quite a long time, and you probably had various minor problems with them - for example, the printer did not pick up paper, stretched several sheets, you got a blurry image, etc. Here are some guidelines to help you get rid of these troubles.

With this malfunction, it is very difficult to print anything. Of course, with a certain skill, you can somehow shove the sheet. But is this a way out? The problem must be solved radically.

Open the cover and take out the cartridge. You will immediately see the cause of the above failure: the ribs on a narrow ribbed roller 5-6 cm long (usually gray, Fig. 1), due to which the grip takes place, wear off over time, and the rubber ages and becomes smooth. Sometimes, for the same reason, several pages are captured at once, but most often the brake pad of the printer (or, as it is also called, the separation pad) is to blame for this. She is behind this video, but more about her later.

How to fix? The video needs to be replaced. The cost of parts ranges from 50 to 100 rubles, it will take about half an hour. So let's get started. We take out the front cover (Fig. 2), bending one of the more elastic sides with a screwdriver. We put it aside. Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the screws in the upper part of the case and a few more at the back (Fig. 3 and 4). Bending back the latches at the base of the case, remove the casing. See the metal shaft that holds the pickup roller? It runs from one side of the printer to the other. When looking at the printer from the front, a gear is visible on the left (Fig. 5). It can be easily removed. To do this, it is enough to slightly raise the latches holding it on the axis. However, be careful: the part is composite - two gears and a spring.

On the other side of the axle is a small bushing (fig. 6). Its position is fixed by a spring stretched on the body (there are small hooks for this).We take out the spring. Turn the sleeve counterclockwise and take it out. The entire axis can now be removed.

When the structure is in your hands, you will only have to get to the shaft itself. To do this, remove the paper feed gear (it has three teeth). With its help, the wall moves, pushing the sheets into the printer. Pull it towards you, but not too hard. Be careful, as it is secured with a special pin, which is not worth losing. Next, we see a roller that guides the sheets, another roller and. finally what we need.

So, we got to the pick-up roller. You can replace it - it costs about 150 rubles. If it is impossible to acquire it or you do not want to waste time searching, then resort to tricks. It is enough to turn the rubber part so that the working area is not yet erased surface with ribs. (Then you will be able to print another 1000 to 5000 pages.) To do this, insert a screwdriver between the plastic base and the rubber and turn the latter a couple of centimeters so that the erased part is farther away. That's all. After that, collect everything in reverse order.

The HP LaserJet 1100 printer makes this repair even easier. After pulling out the cartridge, you can already unscrew the two screws holding the shaft with the paper pick-up shaft. We change it. With a little effort, we pull out the oval part of the roller, on which the elastic is worn, and remove it from the base. Next, we put a new one. We return everything to its original position. Check if the paper guides on both sides of the roller are seated correctly. We make a test.

Be careful: the structure of this part in the 5L / 6L printers is different than in the 1100, and they are incompatible.

Agree: I do not want to print a thesis of 100-200 pages, feeding the printer one sheet at a time. Doing the job of the paper feed tray isn't the most inspiring prospect. Wouldn't it be better, after spending a little time and effort, to restore the correct operation of the device.

For a start, you can try to replace the aforementioned video, but most often this does not help. The fault of the device malfunctioning, as a rule, is the brake (separation) platform. You will have to buy this part or fix the old one. I'll make a reservation right away that you will spend less nerves by buying a new one, since 100-150 rubles. not money. In the case of repairing a part, you will have to experiment every time, and this is a complete disassembly and assembly of the printer.

Well, let's start. After pulling out the cartridge, disconnecting all the plastic parts and taking out the rod with the paper feed roller, as described above, we proceed to the difficult process of removing the laser unit, since it will be rather difficult to get to the brake platform without removing this unit.

So, we disconnect all wires from the laser unit. On the left we remove the gutter (Fig. 7), through which the cables are laid. Two screws are hidden under it. We unscrew it. There are two more screws on the right. To make it easier to remove the block, you will also need to unscrew one screw on the right and left on the back wall.

DIY printer repair - what you can do at hometo save money on calling a master or sending a printing device to a service center? Not all problems can be solved on your own, but there are things that you can diagnose yourself. However, do not forget that a serious malfunction can be identified and corrected exclusively by the hands of a specialist with extensive experience and specialized tools for carrying out the corresponding work. Repair of printers by service center engineers YauzaOrgService guarantees high quality and speed of service delivery without overpayments. But what will it be possible to reveal at home?

• The most common cause of printer breakdown, whether Canon, HP, Epson, Oki, Samsung, Ricoh, Brother or Xerox, is to clean the machine irregularly. In simple words, it is dirt. It often leads to imbalance of the case, noise appears during operation, or paper picking stops. That is why it is recommended to clean the printing device at regular intervals and only when the equipment is off. But you need to know about the prohibition of the use of alcohol - for wiping we take only ordinary distilled water, a new sponge and cotton swabs.

• We check the correctness of operation: the printer must be plugged in, the tray is pushed in firmly to the very end, the sheet guides are set, the cartridges are correctly installed and there is no jam of foreign objects in the machine.

• Do not be afraid to inspect the inside of the equipment for paper debris or scraps, toner spills, plaster, sand, or water.

• Check the cartridge is full, if it has run out.

• If printer malfunctions are displayed as errors on the computer monitor, be sure to write down the code, number, or information on the screen for transmission to the wizard.

• Pay attention to the print quality of documents, whether there are additional streaks or spots, what color they are.

• Track the frequency of paper chewing.

• Listen for extraneous sounds, crackles, noises when printing.

Having considered all the above nuances, which often lead to the stoppage of the printer's functioning, you can speed up the process of correcting a malfunction, replace the repair procedure with preventive maintenance and save money on a specialist visit. Evaluation of the state of the equipment operability, the exact formulation of the problem and the listing of the problems that have appeared will allow the foreman to respond to the request as quickly as possible, since he will present the amount of work in advance. If this is not a serious breakdown and the situation allows you to repair parts, replace components or restore work quickly - printer repair can be carried out even at the diagnostic stage. By calling the phone number or sending an application through the website YauzaOrgService - assistance will be provided with the provision of a guarantee for all types of operations and services performed.

Gentlemen, I decided to turn to the collective mind, because my own is not enough.

I am trying to fix my LJ 6L which is printing blurry / out-of-focus prints. on the “engine test” the vertical stripes look fine (they are wide, see below), but when I try to print the built-in test or from the computer, I can see that the thin lines are not printed, the corners are rounded. the impression is that the print is out of focus / blurry and of lower density. At first I suspected the cartridge, today I tried it in another printer, the prints are completely normal, so it's not about it, but about the printer.

I scanned both prints and posted the file at

if you look at the letter crawling out of the printer, you can hardly see the postage on it and the text is blurry. you can also see that the light dyser on the printer's body is visible on a good print, and absent on a bad one.

tried changing the resolution to 300dpi, no difference.

where to start? which is more likely a high voltage power supply or a laser?

thanks in advance for any ideas.

Clean the optical part
laser
mirrors, be careful with them, DO NOT SCRAP
lens
photodetector.
If memory serves, then this is all on top.
Next, clean all the contacts inside with which the cartridge comes in contact.

filled in. can you clean with cotton swabs? Methyl alcohol for wiping will go?

Printer repair, is it a difficult task?

Difficult and incomprehensible, like any other problem, the solution of which is unknown. We all do something, someone plays on the stock exchange and is guided by securities, someone drives a taxi and knows the city as their backyard, and someone repairs printers and does it at the highest level.

We will make high-quality repair of the HP LaserJet 5L - 6L printer in your office or at home at a convenient time for you. In most cases, we can make a diagnosis based on your words describing a problem in the operation of the printer, which will save you time-consuming diagnostics, and sometimes give recommendations on how to restore your printer's performance on your own.Therefore, it is extremely important, when placing an application, to tell all the problems with your printer. When repairing an HP LaserJet 5L - 6L printer, we use the recommendations of the manufacturer, our experience, proven spare parts and give a guarantee for the work performed.

If we cannot establish an unambiguous reason for the failure of your HP LaserJet 5L - 6L printer by phone, an on-site engineer will carry out diagnostics, determine the reason and agree on the cost of repairs with you. Departure for diagnostics and minor repairs is paid, from 650 rubles.

Upon completion of the HP LaserJet 5L - 6L repair, we conduct mandatory printer testing.

We are ready not only to repair your HP LaserJet 5L - 6L printer, but also to take it for service.

It is necessary to try to revive, possibly the second one.

It's like a fucking fake formatter.

In which direction to dig?
Are there any circuits in nature, perhaps there are some clones, or almost, according to the "electro-nachinka"?
What kind of processor is there, what does a motor one look like? Perhaps it will be possible to slightly finish the software if there is documentation and IDA for it.

What kind of additional memory is there, a PCMCIA slot or something similar?
In the cartridge of additional memory, what is it - such as SPD or some kind of commutation so that the processor understands that the memory has been added? DRAM 5V I solder and over, how to make it see?

What is the name of the test device, I think I will find it in the service manual - is there an autonomous device or a software and hardware device? What is the test-tuning program called in order to google it?

Tomorrow I'll take another 6L, I need two, conditionally workers.

There is a similar theme in the Technoflame, Gennady, let's fix the formatter, if you don't mind.

So far I have only cleaned, measurements and observations are in progress.

Why are you all bothering about the cartridge? Confusing white stripes with black... The check is elementary - to shine an external light source on the drum - if a uniformly black sheet comes out, then the cartridge is high, high timings are working.

In this case, the formatter really blows away, because the polygon is to blame - the PLL is spinning in the wrong lock and the BDI of the “wrong system” is removed.

It's just that the laser is ignited, that's why the strip black, as it should be. And the paper is white.

Either the govnopanasovsky AN8247 screwed up, or some clay flowed into its low-pass filter, I'll see.

In the meantime, with the formatter - [RESOLVED], it works.

His mother!

But now I will also check the DH to clear my conscience

Vladimir Anatolyevich, fuck pshol. Exactly you.

The charger change two minutes of the case. For the money, 1-2 bucks.
Moreover, you can temporarily throw it from another cartridge, and then return it back.
And with a laser sekas.
But everything will become clear.

Here.he, yes no questions. Make fun of yourself.

If suddenly someone wants to draw a diagram and make a datasheet for 8247.

I had to draw myself.

P.S. As it turned out, such a scheme is wandering on the Internet. There are a lot of fundamental mistakes, be careful ..

Pictures are photographed as soon as information for the post appears.

Nothing in the printer circuitry interferes with this either mechanically or electronically. Specifically with 5L and now 6L - it is enough to apply / LON and / VDOUT and the laser lights up constantly. I doubt it works differently in other printers.

In 8247, one phase differed from the others in an oscilloscope manner and the driver shortened the motor even without power supply, which is noticeable by the overrun.

Ext. I forget to write everything. The polygon seemed to spin faster (which is why I checked the piping for leaks of the LPF capacitors) than necessary and accelerated to the end of the sheet.

Look. Formation of an image in a laser printer is not primary - mechanics are primary.
Along the line - the polygon accelerates, gets into its own PLL, at a certain time within the mirror rotation, a BDI signal appears, giving the formatter an idea of ​​the beginning or end of the active line.
It, the line is active, is located between two BDI signals with fixed time frames, depending on the construct. The BDI uses a formatter PLL, which creates the image sampling rate from memory.
If the BDIs are chaotic, then the image selection PLL is blown away, and we see fluctuations like this. The beginning of the iso in different places horizontally cyclically, the stretching is different, the hovering in the on and off state of the laser, etc.

It is impossible to synchronize the formatter PLL using the tacho sensor of the polygon motor - the engine is very electromagnetically curved and there is a lot of jitter on the tacho signal.

Therefore, the sync from the BDI is “smoothed” by the mirror and rotor flywheel.

That's for sure. We'll have to fence cities from a suitable pmsm-motor driver with a built-in PFD, which can be found in the trash of a suitable one.

Guys, nothing to do with the cartridge

Here are a couple of sheets, I forgot to turn off the overhead light.

Normal cartridge of medium kill. Yes and I have no other

Warnings: 1

Posts: 5313

HP LASERJET 6L printer repair

HP LASERJET 6L printer service and repair in Moscow and the region.

Repair of the HP LASERJET 6L printer

Is your HP LASERJET 6L printer broken?
There is a solution!
It often happens that the printer stops working properly and starts printing poorly, or not printing at all. What to do in this case?
You need the help of a professional technician, knowledgeable in his field, who will diagnose and repair your HP LASERJET 6L printer.
Our technical center deals with just such breakdowns. We will make your HP LASERJET 6L printer up and running as soon as possible. Just dial and contact us!
Maintaining the HP LASERJET 6L printer
The procedure for diagnostics and repair of the HP LASERJET 6L printer
Service for your HP printer includes replacement only with quality replacement parts from the manufacturer.

Refilling and recovery of the cartridge for HP LaserJet 5L / 6L / 1100

To get started, we need about ten minutes of clean time and a simple set:

1. Packaged toner;
2. Respirator. Of course, you can do without it, but at the end of refueling, wipe your airways (nostrils) with a damp, light cloth, and I'm sure you won't work without a respirator next time;
3. Phillips and flathead screwdrivers. The first is for loosening the screws, the second is for extracting shafts and axles;
4. Pliers or similar for power work;
5. A funnel with an outer diameter of the horn of about 20 mm or a sheet of thick paper from which you can roll a cone to replace the missing funnel;
6. Two large sheets of paper to ensure cleanliness and order after work (for the first time I recommend the area as much as possible);
7. Several lint-free cloths for a neat dry cleaning of the shafts and drum;
8. Medium stiff brush for cleaning ribbed parts and hard-to-reach areas.

That's all. You can get started, but first I want to give you some tips.

Has the desire to read further still not disappear? Let's continue then.
Refilling / Remanufacturing of a cartridge for HP LaserJet 5L / 6L / 1100
In the darkness of a patient's insides

The HP cartridge is composed of two independent parts with a movable, spring-loaded connection. The first part, on which the handle is located, contains the squeegee, the charge shaft, the drum unit and the hopper. The second part contains a toner roller, a set of gears and a container into which it will be necessary to pour the coloring powder. Understood? Begin. Try to settle down where no one will bother you, and where you can organize a sanitary zone without consequences.
Step 1.

We remove the light-shielding shutter of the drum, due to which we get free access to it and save ourselves from the uncomfortable spring-loaded part, which is always ready to slam shut at the most crucial moment (with some experience and dexterity, this step can be skipped):
use a flat screwdriver to pry the flap axes located along the edges of the cartridge;
carefully pull out the narrow part of the flap, which is inside the cartridge from the side of the handle;
remove the flap with the same movement that it opens when installing the cartridge in the printer.

The damper can be set aside, making sure that the spring is not lost when it is put on one of the axles.
Step 2.

We remove the drum. This will prevent damage to the photosensitive layer during further actions and will open access to the inside of the case:
install the cartridge upside down and don't tilt it anywhere else;
we extend the drum axles located on the sides of the cartridge, for which we turn a flat screwdriver, placing it in the groove under the head of each axis (considerable effort is required here);

we take out the axles with pliers (also not without effort);
we move apart the parts of the cartridge: we rest the handle on the palm and with the fingers of the same hand we press on the opposite part until the drum moves freely;
gently pry the drum by the gear and set it aside;
while looking for a safe place for the drum, you can easily wipe it off toner residues with a dry cloth;
if the drum has not yet been attached anywhere, then place it on the flap - this is where it will feel like in a cartridge.

Remove the charge shaft:
we pry it with a flat screwdriver by the end of the metal axis, removing it from the spring-loaded support;
take out the shaft and place it next to the drum unit.

If for some reason you decide to remove the spring-loaded supports, then do not confuse them, returning them to their place - the support made of dark material is conductive and should be located on the side opposite to the gears on the contact pad.
Step 4.

Now the first dirty step is to clean the waste toner from the hopper. The only hole through which this can be done is the gap between the doctor blade and the body:
turn the cartridge along its axis until the toner starts to spill out. The rotation must be performed so that the hopper is at the bottom during your actions, otherwise the toner may scatter inside the case;
with various movements and gentle tapping, shake out the waste toner onto a sheet of paper prepared earlier;
slowly, without causing air movement, roll the toner sheet tightly.

Theoretically, this powder can be re-poured into the cartridge, but during operation, dust and paper fluff collect with it, which may adversely affect the quality of prints in the future. And there is not so much of it that you can regret something.

The next task is to add new toner to the cartridge.
Step 5.

We remove the cover from the side opposite to the gears, under it is our goal - a hole with a plug:
we take out the axis of the hinge, for this we push it with a flat screwdriver from the inside (next to the dark support of the charge shaft), and then pull it out from the outside, grabbing it with pliers;

in the center of the side cover, unscrew the screw with a Phillips screwdriver, while diligently holding the toner shaft by the plastic sleeve in its original state (hold until there is no command to release);
remove the cover by slightly sliding the longitudinal parts of the cartridge.
Step 6.

The second dirty stage. Add new toner:

install the cartridge with the plug up (while still holding the toner roller!);
using a flat screwdriver, take out the plastic plug with a deep movement, and do not be afraid to damage it - this is almost impossible;
through a funnel, very carefully, in a thin stream (in its fluidity it is very similar to a liquid), pour in a new toner. If you drop all at once, then due to the displaced air you will get a huge cloud of dust;
close the cork;
we return the side cover to its place and fix it with a screw, while aligning all the axes and counterparts on the cartridge;
only now (!) you can release the toner roller.
Step 7.

Putting the rest of the parts in reverse order, simultaneously sweeping and erasing the toner wherever you see it (except for the toner roller - there is and will always be powder on it):

• we restore the connection in the hinge;
• we return the charge shaft to the spring-loaded supports;
• install the drum unit by separating the parts of the cartridge;
• insert the drum axis into place;
• we fix the damper.

We check the build quality by external inspection for the presence of unnecessary parts, distortions and other similar shortcomings.

Before installing, make several movements to distribute the new toner evenly, as indicated by the icons on the case. That's all - you can print.

After the refueling procedure, for the final shaking and shrinking of the disturbed cartridge, it is advisable to give a cleaning command in accordance with the instructions, or simply run a few blank copies.

Upon completion, I recommend doing a wet cleaning of the workplace. When washing the surrounding objects and yourself from the toner, in no case use hot water, but only lukewarm water, otherwise the same will happen as in the printer's fuser. The same applies to stained clothing.
Refilling / Remanufacturing of a cartridge for HP LaserJet 5L / 6L / 1100

There is no need to expect the initial quality from a remanufactured cartridge: after all, it has honestly fulfilled the period set by the manufacturer, and everything else depends on what requirements will be imposed on subsequent prints. The most capricious originals are photographs, images with large, evenly colored areas, and gradient fills. Here you have to choose between quality and cheapness. However, after several refills, with each restoration, longitudinal-transverse stripes will appear more and more strongly on the paper, caused by damage to the rolls and cuts on the photosensitive layer from the sharp edges of the sheets.

In the pictures, you can compare the print quality with varying degrees of drum wear and assess the feasibility of restoring for yourself.

One is done on the third cycle of the cartridge, and the other at about the tenth or eleventh. As you can see, the text (14 point size) is perfectly readable on every print, but the second document is only suitable for a draft. It is possible to try to get rid of such shortcomings by replacing the drum and squeegee, which can be easily found on the market. But please note that such consumables are most often made by third-party manufacturers and, as a rule, have a much lower resource than original ones. In my opinion, it is easier to buy a new cartridge, and not to reanimate an outright corpse.