• We check the correct operation: the printer must be plugged in, the tray is firmly pushed in to the very end, the sheet guides are set, the cartridges are correctly installed and there is no jamming of foreign objects in the device.
• Don't be afraid to inspect the inside of the equipment for paper residue or torn pieces, toner spills, plaster, sand, or water.
• Check the cartridge is full to see if it has run out.
• If printer malfunctions are displayed as errors on the computer monitor, be sure to write down the code, number, or information from the screen for transmission to the wizard.
• Pay attention to the print quality of your documents, whether there are additional streaks or spots, what color they are.
• Monitor the frequency of paper jams.
• Listen for extraneous sounds, crackles, noise when printing.
Having considered all the above nuances, which often lead to a stop in the operation of the printer, you can speed up the process of correcting the malfunction, replace the repair procedure with prevention and save money on the visit of a specialist. An assessment of the state of the equipment’s performance, an accurate statement of the problem and a listing of the problems that have appeared will allow the master to respond to the request as quickly as possible, since he will present the scope of work in advance. If this is not a serious breakdown and the situation allows you to repair parts, replace components or restore operation quickly - printer repair can be carried out at the diagnostic stage. By calling the phone number or sending a request through the website YauzaOrgService – assistance will be provided with a guarantee for all types of operations and services performed.
From time to time, printer owners encounter malfunctions. Most people themselves have gained personal experience in eliminating minor flaws in such an apparatus. As practice shows, a frequent reason for the unwillingness of the printer to work can be a software failure or a minor mechanical failure that can be fixed on your own, without seeking help from a specialist.
Consider the probable causes of malfunctions and ways to eliminate them yourself, without resorting to the help of another person.
The device of printers such as HP, Canon, Epson, Samsung, Sharp, Ricoh is fundamentally the same.Therefore, consider several reasons that are found on all printing devices:
Important! In no case should you use detergents and alcohol-containing liquids.
In addition to all of the above, listen to the operation of your device. Are there any extraneous noises coming from it? If you hear them, this may be a signal that the gears that drive the printing mechanism have failed. In most cases, they are made of plastic.
Below we will consider how to repair using the HP LaserJet 1100 printer as an example. This instruction will also be useful for repairing a Canon, Samsung and Epson printer.
Suppose that during printing with a paper clip that was on a sheet, the thermal film was damaged. For repairs, you will need a small set of tools:
VIDEO
Important! During such work, each operation must be performed very carefully, since the printer is mostly made of plastic and any latch or part may break. Of course, after assembly, there should be no extra parts left.
Printers, scanners, MFPs - office equipment has firmly entered our lives: these devices are now available in any office and in almost every home. Like any electronics, such devices, no matter how high-quality they are, can eventually begin to "jump". Someone in such cases immediately turns to a service center, someone tries to repair the printer on their own at home, which sometimes leads to disastrous results. Let's find out together in which cases do-it-yourself printer repair is justified, and when it is better to use the services of professionals.
Interruptions in the operation of printers can occur for various reasons. The most common problems faced by users can be described as follows:
Problems with feeding / issuing, uniform paper rolling.
The appearance of horizontal / vertical stripes on the sheets.
Loud noise during operation.
Problems turning on the printer.
An "invisible" cartridge that is not recognized by the printer.
Inability to print from a computer, or print "incomprehensible" characters.
Inability to print a given (usually large) volume.
We have listed several problematic situations, but in fact, printer malfunctions can manifest themselves in different ways - depending on the type of device, its “age” and other factors.
Let's see in which of the cases it is possible to repair printers at home, and whether it is possible in principle.
Strong noise during operation of the device is most likely caused by a malfunction of the gearbox or the main drive, so you should immediately contact the service center, and not try to “fix” the printer by repeatedly turning it on and off.
There are many sites on the Internet that describe in detail how you can easily and simply fix any technique with your own hands.However, in our opinion, printer repairs should be carried out only by specialists who will accurately determine and fix the problem, and not use improvised means (screwdrivers, nail files, scissors), as most users would do. “So what happens, at the first unsuccessful attempt to print a sheet of paper, run to the service center?” - you ask. No, you don’t need to run right away, you can still do something at home - for example, conduct an initial diagnostic of the printer.
Often the printer, oddly enough, does not work for "ridiculous" reasons:
incorrectly installed cartridge,
not set sheet limiters,
not fully retracted tray,
foreign objects stuck in the printer.
Therefore, if your device suddenly begins to wrinkle or tear paper, make sure that all the elements in it are installed correctly. Remove the cartridge and carefully inspect the device from the inside: if you see the remains of a jammed sheet, it is better not to try to get it yourself using sharp objects, they can cause much more damage.
If water, sand, for example, plaster, soil from a flower pot got inside your printer, toner spilled, unplug the machine immediately and contact the service center.
Another diagnostic technique that allows you to understand what the problem lies in is the use of one cartridge instead of another. If your printer "does not see" the cartridge, jams the paper under it, prints stripes on the sheet, install another cartridge in it, if, of course, you have one. Restoring the device's performance will indicate that the problem was in the cartridge, but if the problems persist, then the faults should be sought in the printer itself. By the way, sometimes stripes on paper indicate that you will soon need to refill the cartridge. When stripes appear on the sheets, remove the cartridge, shake it well several times and put it back in place: if the “striping” has disappeared, then it’s the toner that is running out.
Repair of office equipment » Do-it-yourself copier repair
Mostly when a photocopier breaks down, the user factor comes to the fore. It often happens that during careless operation they get inside foreign objects. It is also often very simple - incorrect paper loading into the tray. Although it looks harmless, it can well spoil the internal nodes.
When it comes to paper, it's enough just to insert it into the tray correctly, and the device will work. When foreign objects got in, then it won’t work out so smoothly: you will need to disassemble the device, it’s good that it’s only partial. You will need to remove the case, in some models part of the mechanisms. When you have removed the foreign body, everything must be collected in the same order. If you are forgetful, then it’s good to photograph step by step how you took it apart.
In a photocopier with your own hands, you can also clean the optics . If this problem exists, it can be easily noticed by the quality of the copies. The presence of stripes, spots and other unnecessary elements is a direct indication for cleaning optical elements. To do this, it is enough to wipe the glass slide and mirrors in the optical system with a clean, lint-free cloth. Little time was spent, but the result is obvious, more precisely, on paper.
When you observe poor quality copies, then most likely the problem is in the cartridge. It needs to be replaced or refilled. If the device gives a specific error code, then you need to refer to the instructions.It will indicate the code and actions when it is highlighted. If there is no such code in the manual, contact the Internet resources for help.
If it was not possible to determine the cause of the breakdown on your own, then you should contact the professionals, since it will be difficult to diagnose a possible breakdown on your own.
Office equipment, such as a copier, can be repaired with your own hands, but you should understand that not everything can be fixed on your own. Elementary breakdowns, such as creasing paper, replacing a cartridge, or cleaning optics are something that every user should be able to do. The remaining cases are the prerogative of service centers.
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The Secret of the Master shares his successful experience in repairing the HP LaserJet 1010 laser printer. The instruction is suitable for HP LJ printers of the 1000 - 1200 series. The story is simple, the printer bought used (for 1000 rubles) worked for a year and was stupidly damaged by a sheet with a paper clip, streaked and began to rustle - it broke thermal film. Thermal film damage is easily confirmed by installing a replacement cartridge. Contacting the service center meant paying for repairs at least at a price comparable to buying a new printer. The search for thermal film for the printer was also incited, the sellers offered to buy thermal film at an unrealistic price of up to 1,500 rubles (it’s a red price
100 rubles), plus the tricks of sellers in the absence of thermal grease in the repair kit and the sale of this component for repair, also at an exorbitant price.
The thermal film was searched for for a month and was bought for 300 rubles (2013) complete with thermal grease. For repair, a simple tool is required:
The repair scheme is carried out step by step in the following order.
Step: 1 Check the integrity of the film and the presence of thermal grease. Pull the cartridge out of the printer. Disconnect the power cord.
Step 1. Unplug the power cord
Step 1. Remove the cartridge from the printer
Step: 2 The cartridge access cover is held by the stem. The stem must be separated from the cover by pressing on the inner edge of the plastic rivet. Hold the rivet while detaching.
Step: 3 Turn the back of the printer towards you, and use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws from the metal cover, two screws on the left and one screw on the right. See photo.
Step 3. Unscrew the screw on the left
Step 3. Unscrew the screws on the right
Step: 4 Remove the side walls of the printer. The stacks are held in place by plastic latches on the top, bottom, and back. The lid without buttons is the strongest. Secret latches are shown in the photo.
Step 4. Wall latches with buttons
Step 4. Wall latches without buttons
Step: 5 Lift the cartridge access door and remove the two mounting screws. Remove the cover.
Step: 6 Use a flathead screwdriver to pry off the lower right edge of the metal back cover and remove it.
Step 6Pry off the cover with a screwdriver
Step: 7 The power board is on the side of the power connector. There are four different connectors on the top of the board, unplug them. The connector with white thick wires will be disconnected only after pressing the latch, see photo. It is also necessary to disconnect the red wire on the back wall. Just pull it up. Remember how it is attached preloaded by a spring. Remove the wires from the organizers.
Step 7: Power board connectors
Step 7: Fourth Connector Retainer
Step 7 Attach the Red Wire
Step 7 Red Wire Connector
Step 7. Wires are released
Step: 8 So we got to the stove. The stove is fixed with three screws. See photo. Unscrew the screws. Hold the screws while loosening.
Step 8. The first screw for fixing the stove
Step 8. The second screw for fixing the stove
Step 8. The third screw for fixing the stove
Step: 9 We take the stove by the right edge and pull it out.
Step: 10 Unscrew the two screws securing the top cover of the stove. Remove the cover by pulling it to the side.
Step 10. The first cover screw
Step 10 Second Cover Screw
Step 10 Remove the oven lid
Step: 11 Now we see the destruction of the thermal film. We remember the position of the straps with springs and levers! Springs are located on the sides of the stove; we unhook the springs from below with long nose pliers. We remove the metal strips and clamping plastic levers from each side. Do not mix them up when assembling!
Step 11 Lever Mount Spring
Step 11 Remove each spring
Step: 12 Release the white wires from the clips and remove the thermal film drum. It just goes up.
Step 12. Remove the thermal drum
Step 12. Thermal Drum Removed
Step: 13 We remove the plastic tip with our own hands from the side where thin wires come out of the drum. The cap is held on by clips.
Step: 14 Remove the damaged thermal film and wipe the metal surface and the thermoelement from old grease and dirt with a damp cloth.
Step 14. Remove the thermal film
Step: 15 Apply new thermal grease to the surface of the stove. Carefully install the thermal film. The end of the cylinder must be fixed on the opposite plastic tip. also carefully install the right tip. It is useful to remove the protruding thermal grease.
Step 15: Apply Thermal Grease
Step 15. Put on the thermal film
Step 15: Remove Excess Thermal Grease
Step: 16 Assemble the stove in reverse order. The correct position of the slats in the photo.
Step 16 Lid Installed
Step: 17 We put the stove in place and fasten it with three screws. We fill and connect all the wires to the connectors. Correctly install the red wire.
Step: 18 Install the back and top covers. We raise the plastic flags of the stove during installation. so that they fall into the corresponding grooves in the cover.
Step 19 Printing a Test Page
Step: 19 After assembling the printer, we check the absence of unnecessary parts. We connect the network cord. We turn on the printer. First, we give the command to pull without paper, and then we print a test page, holding the green button a little longer. The first few pages may show smear marks around the edges. The work was done slowly within an hour. The savings from such work will correspond to a salary of more than 100,000 rubles per month.
Repair such breakdowns yourself!
Himself changed dozens of thermal films for hp-I testify-it is written correctly.
And how to deceive a xerox 3140 laser printer, I have a problem, I bought a cartridge for it, the ink ran out, I started pouring new powder and then it says that supposedly there is no cartridge and it stopped printing, the red diode is on and that's it / How can you tell me to deceive him?
Today, almost every family has a home printer that allows you to print documents and take photos without leaving your home. But, as you know, any office equipment from time to time needs maintenance and, if necessary, minor repairs. Therefore, in this article we will tell you how to fix printer malfunctions with your own hands, at home, without spending much money and wasting time. For example, consider a well-known brand - HP.
As you know, the Hewlett Packard brand is very popular in Russia. Printing devices of this brand can be found both at home and in enterprises and offices. The high popularity is due to the reasonable price of printers and the reliability of their work. But any, even the most unpretentious device sometimes needs maintenance.
To begin with, let's look at typical problems that arise when actively using HP inkjet printers, and how to solve them.
The first cause of possible malfunctions is internal contamination of the printer , leading to an imbalance of moving parts, the formation of noise during operation and knocking when the carriage moves.
Even an ordinary user can fix this problem, you don’t have to disassemble the printer - just buy a special lubricant sold in electronics stores and process all moving mechanisms.
To clean the printer from internal contamination, it is better to use ordinary distilled water; the use of alcohol for this purpose is contraindicated by the manufacturer.
If the text moves to the side during printing or the carriage hits the edges of the case, the cause may be dustiness or breakage of the "ruler" of positioning , along which the carriage is oriented in space.
In the first case, it will be enough for you to simply disassemble the back of the printer, get to the shaft and remove the ruler, then rinse it in warm water, wipe it with a dry sponge and dry it, then install everything back in reverse order (remember how the ruler was originally located) Turn on the printer and check its performance. If the line breaks, it is better to contact a specialized service center.
There is also another problem - the carriage does not cling to the gear teeth , the motor is idle. The reason for the failure is simple - poor tension of the drive belt. The problem is solved by inspecting and correcting the tension spring on the belt gear bracket. Perhaps it is poorly fixed or simply needs to be replaced.
The next problem is jerky carriage movement causing the printer to tear the paper. This is a serious malfunction associated with an imbalance in the print mechanism - the printer shaft has lost its original correct position. To eliminate the defect, it is necessary to disassemble the printer - remove the carriage, ruler, shaft, toothed belt, clean all mechanisms by rinsing them in warm water, dry and assemble everything in its original state, lubricating all friction points of the carriage and adjusting its free play.
If your printer does not pick up paper, it is worth cleaning the rubber rollers in the lower tray, as well as adjusting the small spring that presses the paper against the roller.
If the printer gives out a strip on the printed sheets, you can safely say that the cartridge will soon run out, and to temporarily fix this problem, just remove it and shake it from side to side.
If several horizontal stripes appear, you can clean the transroller yourself (black roller under the cartridge). It pulls out easily, but try not to touch it with your hands. You can clean the roller with cotton pads or a soft cloth, it is also allowed to use isopropyl alcohol.
Summing up, we can conclude that most printer malfunctions are eliminated by cleaning them from pollution and adjusting mechanisms even at home. For this, elementary technical skills and patience are enough.
In this article, we will look at common problems with all-in-ones and how to fix them. Repair tips are relevant for almost all MFP models - HP, Canon, Epson, Xerox, Brother, Samsung, Ricoh, Toshiba and others.
If the scanner unit is broken in the MFP, then, most likely, it will not be possible to repair it at home. This may require replacement of the backlight or scanning head.
In principle, a malfunction of the scanning part of the MFP can be caused by breakdowns in the electronic part: it is necessary to check the capacitors for swelling, ring the power circuit with a multimeter, and also make sure that there are no burned-out elements.
If there are problems with the printer unit, then repairing it is usually not difficult at home.
Paper does not feed . It is necessary to check the correct installation of the cartridge (this applies to both inkjet and laser MFPs), there are situations when a foreign object gets stuck in the paper path. It must be removed and checked for physical damage that it could cause to the device.
The laser MFP may not be able to print due to cartridge chip not reset . This may happen after refueling. In this case, you need to either contact the service center to replace the chip, or purchase a new cartridge. You can replace the chip yourself.To do this, you need to find and buy a new chip (they cost from 30 to 150 rubles), and insert it in place of the old one. But for this you need to make sure that there is toner in the cartridge, otherwise replacing the chip is pointless.
Streaks on sheets (laser MFP) . In this case, you need to clean the drum unit. Remove the cartridge from the MFP, gently slide the protective cap (some models may not have it). Do not touch the photoconductor with your hands! Take a clean, dry, lint-free cloth and wipe any waste toner from the drum. Then install the cartridge back.
Printing Issues (Inkjet MFP) . White spots, incomplete color reproduction and other defects are all common in inkjet MFPs. First you need to try to troubleshoot software problems: cleaning the nozzles, calibrating the print head. If these steps do not help, you can purchase inkjet nozzle cleaner and clean with it. In no case do not use tap water, ordinary alcohol and other household products! You will only make it worse.
We hope you find these repair tips helpful. If so, call, consultation is free!
Hello everyone! After my previous post about printer repair, I still have +10 subscribers) Although I don’t pretend to be such respected pick-ups as qepka and 80cats (I’m far from them and their work profile is different), I’m very pleased for your support. In this post I want to tell and show about the repair of some printers that have been in our SC
Xerox WC3220, the problem is that after turning it on it does not go into readiness, a message appears something like “system error: off / on. a printer". I also thought that everything was simple. the same printers were already brought with the same error, the result was that the heating lamp burned out. I noticed that recently they began to often bring Sam / Xer printers with a burned-out lamp, it seems to be clear: it often turns on and off during operation (it just didn’t happen before, and devices are about the same year of production ¯_(ツ)_/¯ ) During the repair process, it turned out that the lamp and fuses were intact, and the reason was not a contact in the socket for connecting the thermal unit:
It looks like the face of a robot with square eyes) The “teeth” of the robot are the contacts of the temperature sensor, the “eyes” are the contacts of the lamp. Two pins were just a little covered with oxides, I was too lazy to clean them and I put the whole nest from another disassembled thermal unit.
Next, the Canon LBP3110 printer, the problem is crackling during printing, jams. And here is a typical problem - the wear of the drive gear of the thermal unit:
The photo shows another printer, it seems Canon MF5730, exactly the same gear in HP 1000/1200/1300 printers and many others
Instead of teeth, the gear had thin plates; naturally, there is no normal hook with the gear of the rubber shaft of the thermal unit. I think there are several reasons for such wear: different material of the gears, weak pressure between the gears, wear of the thermal unit, and the manufacturer himself is not interested in the units to serve for a long time
Printer Kyocera ES 1370N. The client's complaint that the sheet comes out of the printer by about 2-3 cm and stops. This happens after about 5-15 sheets.
I found that the Teflon shaft was worn straight to the metal from one edge, but after replacing it, the malfunction remained. Having crawled through the forums on this problem, I realized that either the optocoupler for the passage of paper in the thermal unit is faulty, or the forward / backward rotation switch of the output shaft is damaged (during duplex printing). Checked all this - the problem remained. Further suspicion fell on the registration clutch in the gearbox. It’s a pity that then I didn’t take many pictures because my hands were constantly lubricated from gears (there is a difficult mechanism to disassemble)
Further repair HP R2035. They printed to the last: after the thermal film broke, the rubber shaft broke, they stopped only when the printer began to jam the paper, the result: a repair in the amount of something around 3,000 rubles, and it could have been more if the heating element had burned out (a gray strip on photo) The photo shows that even the paper turned black from temperature
If you open the rear door of the printer after a paper jam and notice such pieces of a rubber shaft or thermal film (sometimes they fall into the tray or at the exit of the printer), then turn off the printer and take it to repair so that you don’t have to spend even more money on repairs
Often in HP / Canon printers, the bearings (bushings) of the rubber roller of the thermal assembly need to be replaced. They are made of heat-resistant plastic, in shape they can be left and right as half rings or one half ring, and the other on the gear side of the rubber shaft with an eyelet from scrolling in place.
The ball bearings familiar to many are also installed in printers, but the price of such devices is usually several times higher. In the upper right corner of the photo, it broke when trying to get it - it was completely erased. It often happens that they wear out unevenly, in which case there is a distortion and the thermal film moves out in the direction of the worn one and over time its edge breaks. Also, when they are worn, there is a clamp between the rubbers. the shaft and the heating element become smaller, which is why the toner is poorly fixed on the sheet (the image is erased if you run your finger over it). On the left side of the photo are two red bearings from canon 3110/3220/5730 and similar. The trick is that the one that is higher costs us around 200 rubles, and with a loop it is already almost 900 rubles. (!) The wholesale price will certainly be lower, but still I don’t understand what exactly is its high price, maybe one of the pikabushniks knows?
The next Brother 7xxx series printer seems to be their most common problem - poor print quality. It happens that a client calls and asks: “What's up with my printer”, and I want to answer - fucked. Well, I don’t like these printers, my parents have a DCP-7030R at home, my father rarely prints and everything is fine, and in an organization where you need to print a lot, they constantly bring with poor print quality. When I just started working in the service, I tried to somehow fix the cartridge, clean it there, replace the photo shaft, sometimes it seems to help, but more often, or when checking, the same thing happens again or then the dissatisfied client brings it again. The most reliable thing is to stupidly buy a new cartridge and not bathe. Moreover, a compatible cartridge is not much worse than the original, and the price is 3 times less
The cartridge itself consists of two parts: the toner cartridge (TN) and the Photo cartridge (Drum). The photo shows a disassembled Drum without a photo shaft. In general, cartridges themselves are consumables, and manufacturers each try to make them disposable in their own way, because this is just a gold mine for them. For example, someone puts chips with protection that are blocked after printing a certain number of sheets, and Brother uses instead of chips a mechanism that, in principle, is easy to reset to 0, in addition, they took some parts out of the printer into the cartridge and made it as disposable as possible . On average, 4-5 refills and the toner cartridge starts to crumble, and then the drum starts to print badly. As I said, cleaning and repairing the cartridge does not always help. You can clean the toner cartridge (completely pour out the old toner, revitalize the seals, clean the magnetic roller, dosing and cutting blades), but it’s more difficult with the drama. As we understand, the charge leakage begins and that's it.
Next comes the HP M400 printer - another example of how the manufacturer strives for disposable cartridges. Customer complaint: the printer breaks the teeth of the drive coupling due to the rotation of the photo shaft (by the way, the cartridges are original)
Fortunately, the couplings are available, and you can remove them from decommissioned ones. The trick is that on previous models with the same photoshaft drive unit, such garbage was not observed. If you pull out / insert the cartridge, the printer starts to rotate the shafts, but sometimes the engagement slips and over time the clutch breaks. I had to collective farm with a gearbox cover so that the clutch clamp and drives were tighter)
True, then, after about 3-4 months, the client again brought with the same trouble (and they print a lot). There are no photos of the further collective farm - another person took care of the printer. In addition to this jamb, the printer has a dull touch screen and mowing firewood - you wait almost an hour for installation, it reaches 99% and an error occurs that the installation is taking too long, restart the computer (if there are firewood installed on the same printer, completely remove them and start the installation again)
Next on the list is the Toshiba e18 MFP. A fairly popular model with an acceptable price for an A3 paper format device. The client says that he jams the paper in the thermal knot with an “accordion”. The client himself is to blame for this - in case of a jam, the paper must be carefully removed, otherwise you can easily break the seats of the paper separation fingers:
Of course, you can try to fix it with a thin drill, wire or paper clips (if you glue something, then with a special high-temperature glue that we don’t have 🙂), but in such cases we usually suggest replacing the entire cover of the thermal unit, there is no other way. If the printer gives a message about the need for service (after about 75 thousand sheets) and the print quality suits you, the error can be easily reset, but still sometimes look inside, see if everything is in order with it. By the way, I recently screwed up a lot with another similar Toshiba) I replaced the Teflon shaft, began to assemble it back, and at the stage of tightening the fixing screws of one of the heating lamps, I jerked my hand that broke the tip with the contact of the lamp (I'm a fool, I'm used to using an electric screwdriver, but I had to carefully tighten the usual one) Naturally, there is no way to repair it, and the lamps removed from the old devices disappeared somewhere. Fortunately, the boss did not swear much, he advised me to look into the thermal unit of the old decommissioned Toshiba model, which had been standing in the corner for a long time. I was lucky - although there was one lamp, instead of two in the 18th, it coincided in parameters with the broken one.
That's all for today, I think it's time to finish) Why didn't I have inkjet printers in my post? There was a time when our service refused to repair them at all. there was little exhaust from them. Recently, they decided to take them again, but only fixing problems not related to print quality is a dirty business, and there is no guarantee of work (start cleaning the nozzles at the most). Usually we reset errors, eliminate jams, change the capture rollers, “diapers”, and so on. Instead of seals at the end - fsh with Peekaboo from which I blew up in a voice at work: Mitka Makkonokhov and Zhorik Letov
What I liked while working in the SC was the repair of printers / copiers. Although I started with a banal PC repair, then laptops, navigators, etc. As a result, I stopped at the printer equipment, and for the last three years I have only been engaged in its repair. Now I will explain a little for those who do not know:
1. Repairing a printer is much more interesting (and even more difficult) than computers and laptops (only I don’t need about laptop BGA soldering, etc. a child can handle soldering at a thermal pro soldering station).
2. A variety of breakdowns, each printer is something new and a drop to experience. Yes, there are repetitive repairs, but they are not as huge as when repairing PCs / laptops. There are instances (the cold immediately ran through the body) with which you can fuck for several days, and knowing specifically the node in which the malfunction is (from personal experience - SHARP, I picked his bitch for three days, as a result - on the gear already when measuring the gear it turned out that the teeth were licked evenly by 1 - 1.5 mm.) For 10 years of experience in the SC, I have not yet seen a single laptop and PC, which would take more than 2-3 hours to diagnose.
3. Each printer is endowed with a magical mind. And if you don’t say at the end of the assembly and before the test check the phrase: “Well, just try to fuck off, I’m not going to disassemble you for the third time” - then there is a possibility that something has not been completed. The most important thing is communication with the printer, you need to feel it, so to speak (to know in which case in which area to fuck off your feet) .
4. Incredible buzz when everything works. Especially the buzz is obtained from the repair of the mechanical part (there is the most fierce pi * ets just ).
5. Copiers (these are such big office infernal machines) - the most raisin for an employee of the SC. Since this is the same printer, only more details - ask where are the raisins? They are charged 10 times more expensive for the repair price.
Video (click to play).
And finally, I would like to end with this phrase: you can’t just take and assemble so that there are no extra bolts left .
