Printers, scanners, multifunction devices - office equipment has become a part of our life: these devices are now available in any office and in almost every home. Like any electronics, such devices, no matter how high-quality they are, can start to "junk" over time. Someone in such cases immediately goes to the service center, someone tries to repair the printer on their own at home, which sometimes leads to disastrous results. Let's find out together in what cases do-it-yourself printer repair is justified, and when it is better to use the services of professionals.
Printer interruptions can occur for a variety of reasons. The most common problems faced by users can be described as follows:
We have listed several problem situations, but in fact, printer malfunctions can manifest themselves in different ways - depending on the type of device, its "age" and other factors.
Let's figure out in which of the cases it is possible to repair printers at home, and whether it is possible in principle.
A strong noise during the operation of the device is most likely caused by a malfunction of the gearbox or the main drive, so you should immediately contact the service center, and not try to "fix" the printer by repeatedly turning it on and off.
There are many sites on the Internet that describe in detail how you can easily and easily repair any equipment with your own hands. However, in our opinion, the repair of printers should be carried out only by specialists who will accurately identify and fix the problem, and will not act with improvised means (screwdrivers, nail files, scissors), as most users would do. "So what happens when you run to the service center at the first unsuccessful attempt to print a sheet of paper?" - you ask. No, you don't need to run right away, there are still some things you can do at home - for example, carry out initial diagnostics of the printer's operation.
Therefore, if your machine suddenly starts to jam or tear the paper, make sure that all the elements in it are installed correctly. Remove the cartridge and carefully inspect the inside of the device: if you see the remains of a jammed sheet, it is better not to try to get it yourself using sharp objects, they can cause much more damage.
If water, sand such as plaster, earth from a flowerpot gets inside your printer, or toner spills - immediately unplug the device and contact the service center.
Another diagnostic trick to understand where the problem lies is to use one cartridge instead of the other. If your printer “does not see” the cartridge, jams the paper under it, prints stripes on the sheet, install another cartridge in it, if, of course, you have one. Restoring the device's performance will indicate that the problem was in the cartridge, but if the problems persist, then the malfunctions should be looked for in the printer itself. By the way, sometimes stripes on the paper indicate that soon you will need to refill the cartridge.When stripes appear on the sheets, take out the cartridge, shake it well several times and put it back in place: if the “streaking” has disappeared, it means that the matter is in the running out of toner.
From time to time, printer owners encounter malfunctions. Most people have independently acquired personal experience in eliminating the minor flaws of such a device. As practice shows, a frequent reason for the unwillingness of the printer to work may be a software failure or a minor malfunction in the mechanical part, which can be eliminated independently, without seeking help from a specialist.
Let's consider the probable causes of malfunctions and how to eliminate them on our own, without resorting to the help of another person.
The device of printers such as HP, Canon, Epson, Samsung, Sharp, Ricoh is fundamentally the same. Therefore, we will consider several reasons that are found on all printing devices:
Important! In no case should you use detergents and liquids containing alcohol.
In addition to all of the above, listen to the operation of your device. Are there any extraneous noises coming from it? If you hear them, this could be a signal that the gears that activate the printing mechanism are out of order. In most cases, they are made of plastic.
Below we will consider how to make repairs using the example of an HP LaserJet 1100 printer. This manual will also be useful for repairing Canon, Samsung and Epson printers.
Suppose the thermal film is damaged during printing with a paper clip on the sheet. For repairs, you need a small set of tools:
VIDEO
Important! During such work, each operation must be performed very carefully, since the printer is mostly made of plastic and any latch or part can break. Of course, after assembly, there should be no unnecessary parts.
Multifunction device Kuocera can issue error codes to your display in the event of a malfunction. To get your bearings in numbers, we offer you a set of the most common ones:
• E-0007 - you need to install a new toner cartridge because the used unit is used up.• C 7990 - the waste toner box is full, you need to clean the drum unit.• C 3100 - it is required to unlock the scanner by moving the latch to the working position.• F248 - it is difficult for the printer to process the image, since the print job most likely contains special characters, restart the device.• C 2810 - a problem with the mining motor.• E-0001 - the device has noticed a non-original toner cartridge, you can reset it by simultaneously pressing Stop / Reset and the button next to the indicators, holding it for 5 seconds.• 1101 - you need to check if the specified SMTP server or host name is correct.• C 6000 - there was a failure in the work of the pinning unit.• CF000 - there is instability or interference in the power supply network.• J-0511 - remove the jammed paper under the rear cover.• E-0008 - you need to close the front or back covers.
Kyocera MFP Repair in case of error, it is possible even with your own hands with a careful and careful approach. Study the characteristics and instructions for the Kuoser equipment model, determine the cause of the problem and determine how difficult it is to repair it yourself. If the work requires a professional approach of specialists, then, without hesitation, take the multifunctional device to the service center or call the wizard with a visit to the office or home.
• E-0001 - the cartridge and toner in the printer are not original.
Umedia Service performs post-warranty repair Kyocera printers with free diagnostics in 22 service centers in St. Petersburg and at home! For renovation Kyocera uses only original parts from the manufacturer Kyocera .
Our technicians daily answer a large number of questions about the repair of Kyocera printers. Check out the questions of your concern below, or ask your own question, which we will be happy to answer!
Hello, we poured paints into the Epsom XP-342 printer, when turned on, it gives an error number 000031, what is it? is it possible to own it.
When printing starts, the process is in progress (sound of operation, paper delivery speed), but the sheet comes out white. previously left traces of stripes when printing. Requests: general.
Worked for 5 years without repair. Yesterday refueled with ink - printing stopped
The pick-up roller spins freely, takes a long time, the paper is not pressed or picked up, The red light turns on, the printer turns off (off.
Didn't work for about a year, put new cartridges, copied the color and black-and-white sheets turned out fine, the following sheets became paler.
Hello! After refilling the cartridge of a Canon copier, white sheets of paper come out during copying. What could be the reason?
The cover of the paper feed tray is broken. it is possible to acquire a new one through you. Serial number RC3-2534
The MFP began to issue an error: "Printing system failure - printhead not found, damaged or incorrectly installed." The service was replaced.
CopyGroup produces repair of Kyocera office equipment of any complexity ... Diagnostics and repairs are performed only by highly qualified technicians. There is a guarantee for repairs.
In order to call our master, you need to look at the model of your device, and then inform our operator by phone 8(495) 739-58-52 ... We need to know the model of the printer and a brief description of the problem (which does not suit you in the operation of the printer). You can also use the order form directly on the site.
For kyocera printers, diagnostics in our company is free ... We will come, figure out what is wrong and tell you how much the repair costs. If for some (absolutely any) reason you refuse to repair, you will not have to pay for diagnostics.
Check out is urgent and free. We can arrive on the day of order, if you have time to call us before 14:00. The cost of departure, as well as the cost of diagnostics, is absolutely free.
Payment is due after repair of the kyocera printer. Cash and bank transfer is possible. A set of necessary documents will be brought by our courier after the completed work.
To search for your device, click CTRL + F and enter the model numbers.
Hello everyone! After my previous post about repairing printers, I still have +10 subscribers) Although I do not pretend to be such respected pikabushniks as qepka and 80cats (I am far from them and their work profile is different), I am very pleased for your support. In this post I want to tell and show you about the repair of some printers that have visited our SC
Xerox WC3220, problem - after turning on it does not go on readiness, a message appears something like “system error: off / on.a printer". I also thought that everything is simple because with the same error, the same printers have already brought, the result - the heating lamp burned out. I noticed that recently they began to bring Sam / Xer printers with a burned out lamp, it seems to be understandable: it often turns on and off during operation (it was just that this was not the case before, and devices of about the same year of manufacture ¯_ (ツ) _ / ¯ ) During the repair process, it turned out that the lamp and the fuses were intact, and the reason was not a contact in the thermo unit connection socket:
Looks like the face of a robot with square eyes) The “teeth” of the robot are the contacts of the thermal sensor, the “eyes” are the contacts of the lamp. Two pins were just a little covered with oxides, I was too lazy to clean them and I put the whole socket from another disassembled thermo unit.
Next, the Canon LBP3110 printer, the problem is crackling when printing, jams. And here is a typical problem - wear of the thermo unit drive gear:
In the photo, another printer seems to be Canon MF5730, exactly the same gear in HP 1000/1200/1300 printers and many others
Instead of teeth, the gear has thin plates, naturally there is no normal engagement with the gear of the rubber shaft of the thermo unit. I think there are several reasons for this wear: different gear material, weak pressure between the gears, wear of the thermocouple, and the manufacturer himself is not interested in the nodes to serve for a long time
Kyocera ES 1370N printer. Customer complaint that the sheet comes out of the printer by about 2-3 cm and stops. This happens in about 5-15 sheets.
I found out that the Teflon shaft was worn straight to the metal on one edge, but after replacing it, the malfunction remained. Having crawled through the forums on this problem, I realized that either the optocoupler for the passage of paper in the thermal unit is faulty, or the forward / backward rotation switch of the output shaft is damaged (with double-sided printing). I checked all this - the problem remained. Further, suspicion fell on the registration clutch in the gearbox. It is a pity that then I did not take enough pictures because my hands were constantly greased from gears (there is a mechanism that is not easy to disassemble)
Further repair of НР Р2035. They printed until the last: after the thermal film broke, the rubber shaft broke, they stopped only when the printer began to jam the paper, the result: repairs for something about 3000 rubles, and it could be more if the heating element burned out (gray strip on photo) The photo shows that even the paper turned black from the temperature
If you open the rear door of the printer after a paper jam and notice such pieces of rubber roller or thermal film (sometimes they fall into the tray or at the exit from the printer), then turn off the printer and carry it to repair so that you will not spend even more on repairs.
Often, in HP / Canon printers, it is necessary to replace the bearings (bushings) of the rubber shaft of the fuser unit. They are made of heat-resistant plastic, in shape they can be left and right as half rings or one half ring, and the other on the gear side of the rubber shaft with a loop from scrolling in place.
Ball bearings familiar to many are also put into printers, but the price of such devices is usually several times higher. In the upper right corner of the photo, it broke when trying to get it - it was completely erased. Often they wear out unevenly, in which case a distortion occurs and the thermal film slides towards the worn one and over time its edge breaks. Also, when they wear out, the clamp between the rubbers. the roller and the heating element becomes smaller, which is why the toner does not adhere well to the sheet (the image is erased if you slide your finger over it). On the left side of the photo are two red bearings from canon 3110/3220/5730 and similar. The trick is that the one that is higher in our country is around 200 rubles, and with a loop it is already almost 900 rubles. (!) The wholesale price will certainly be lower, but still I do not understand what exactly is its high price, can any of the pikabushniks know?
The next Brother 7xxx series printer seems to be and the most common problem is poor print quality. It happens that a client calls and asks: "Why is my printer doing there?"Well, I don't like these printers, my parents have a DCP-7030R at home, my father rarely prints and all the rules, and in an organization where you need to print a lot, they constantly bring them with poor print quality. When I just started working in the service I tried to somehow fix the cartridge, clean it there, replace the photo tube, sometimes it seems to help, but more often, or when checking, it will do the same thing again, or then a dissatisfied client will bring it again. The most reliable thing is to buy a new cartridge stupidly and not to steam. Moreover, the compatible cartridge is not much worse than the original, and the price is 3 times less
The cartridge itself consists of two parts: a toner cartridge (TN) and a photo cartridge (Drum). The photo shows a disassembled Drum without a photo. In general, cartridges themselves are consumables and manufacturers try to make them disposable in their own way, because this is just a gold mine for them. Someone, for example, puts chips with protection, which are blocked after printing a certain number of sheets, and Brother uses a mechanism instead of chips, which, in principle, is easy to reset to 0, in addition, they took some parts from the printer into the cartridge and made it as disposable as possible ... On average, 4-5 refills and the toner cartridge starts to crumble, and then the dram starts to print badly. As I said before, cleaning and repairing the cartridge does not always help. You can clean the toner cartridge (completely empty out the old toner, invigorate the seals, clean the magnetic roller, metering and cutting blade), but with the drum it is more difficult. As we understood, charge leakage begins and that's it.
Next comes the HP M400 printer - another example of how a manufacturer strives for disposable cartridges. Customer complaint: the printer breaks the teeth of the drive coupling for rotation of the photo roll (by the way, the cartridges are original)
Fortunately, the clutch is available, and it can be removed from the decommissioned ones. The trick is that on previous models with the same fotoval drive unit, such garbage was not observed. If you pull out / insert the cartridge, the printer starts to rotate the shafts, but sometimes the clutch slips and over time the clutch breaks. I had to work on a collective farm with a gear cover so that the clamping of the clutch and the drives was tighter)
True, then, after about 3-4 months, the client brought it again with the same trouble (and they print a lot). There are no further kolkhoz photos - another person took up the printer. In addition to this jamb, the printer has a dull touch display and log firewood - you wait almost an hour for installation, it reaches 99% and an error occurs that the installation takes too long, restart the computer (if there is firewood installed on the same printer, remove them completely and start the installation again)
Further on the list of MFP Toshiba e18. Quite a popular model with a reasonable price for an A3 paper machine. The client says he is jamming the paper in the fuser with an accordion. The client is to blame for this - when a jam occurs, the paper must be removed carefully, otherwise the seats of the paper separator fingers can be easily broken:
You can, of course, try to fix it with a thin drill, wire or paper clips (if you glue something, then with a special high-temperature glue, which we do not have 🙂), but in such cases we usually suggest replacing the entire lid of the thermo unit, there is no other way. If the printer displays a message about the need for service (after about 75 thousand pages) and the print quality suits you, the error can be easily reset, but still sometimes you look inside to see if everything is okay with it. By the way, I recently screwed up a lot with another Toshiba) I replaced the Teflon shaft, began to assemble it back, and at the stage of tightening the fastening screws of one of the heating lamps pulled my hand that broke the tip with the contact of the lamp (I'm a fool, I'm used to using an electric screwdriver, but it was necessary to tighten the usual one carefully) Naturally, there is no way to repair it, and the lamps removed from the old devices have disappeared somewhere. Fortunately, the boss did not swear much, advised him to look into the thermo unit of the old decommissioned model of Toshiba, which had been standing in the corner for a long time. I was lucky - although there was only one lamp, instead of two in the 18th, it matched the broken one in terms of parameters.
That's all for today, I think it's time to finish) Why didn't I have inkjet printers in my post? There was a time when our service refused to repair them altogether. there was little exhaust from them. Recently, they decided to take them again, but only to eliminate problems not related to print quality - this is a dirty business, and there is no guarantee of work (at most, start cleaning the nozzles). Usually we reset errors, remove jams, change pick rollers, “diapers” and so on. Instead of cats at the end - fsh with Pikabu from which I blasted out loudly at work: Mitka Makkonokhov and Zhorik Letov
What I liked while working in the SC was the repair of printers / copiers. Although I started with a banal PC repair, then laptops, navigators, etc. As a result, I slowed down on the printer equipment, and for the last three years I have only been repairing it. Now I will explain a little to those who do not know:
1. It is much more interesting (and even more difficult) to repair a printer than computers and laptops (it’s not just me about laptop BGA soldering, etc. a child can handle soldering at a thermal soldering station).
2. Variety of breakdowns, each printer is something new and a drop of experience. Yes, there are repetitive repairs, but their percentage is not as large as when repairing PCs / laptops. There are instances (immediately the cold ran through the body) with which you f * ck for several days and knowing exactly the node in which the malfunction (from personal experience - SHARP, I picked it up for three days, as a result - on the gear already when measuring the gear it turned out that the teeth were licked evenly by 1 - 1.5 mm.) For 10 years of work experience in the SC, I have not yet seen a single laptop and PC which would take more than 2-3 hours to diagnose.
3. Each printer is endowed with a magical mind. And if you do not say at the end of the assembly and before the test check the phrase: “Well, bitch, just try to fuck, I won’t fucking disassemble you for the third time” - then there is a possibility that I didn’t finish something. The most important thing is communication with the printer, you have to feel it so to speak. (to know in which case in which area to get off the feet) .
4. Incredible thrill when everything works. Especially the buzz is obtained from the repair of the mechanical part (there is the fiercest pi * ets just ).
5. Copiers (these are such big infernal office machines) are the raisins for an employee of the SC. Since this is the same printer, only there are more details - ask where are the raisins? For the price of repair, they are charged 10 times more expensive.
And finally, I would like to end with the following phrase: you can't just pick up and assemble so as not to leave extra bolts .
We will repair and service KYOCERA printers, MFPs and copiers with a visit to Moscow 8 (495) 724-64-77. All necessary spare parts are in stock. Refilling of Kyocera cartridges. Warranty for the work performed.
The most varied technique Kyocera works in offices including printers and multifunctional devices (MFPs). Of course, like all other equipment, it needs maintenance and timely replacement of resource parts (development units, photo drums, fusing units, rollers, etc.). Less common is the need for repairs such as replacing gears, replacing motors and boards.
Along with problems with paper passage, there are also problems associated with print quality.
The device writes “no paper in the tray », «add paper ", Less common"add material ”Although there is paper in the tray;
The device prints one sheet at a time (jams occur when printing 2 or more sheets);
Paper jams , sometimes accordion crumples ;Paper jams intermittently.
Most of these problems are solved by replacing the paper feed unit or paper feed rollers.
The paper feed unit for Kyocera printers and MFPs consists of three rollers:
Kyocera paper pick roller designed for the initial grip of paper and moving it to the feed roller (most susceptible to wear)Kyocera paper feed roller is necessary for further transportation of paper to the registration unit - the machine slightly lifts the paper in the tray and feeds it a few centimeters, while the printer beeps and informs about problems with paper.Kyocera Paper Peel Roller is needed so that the paper passes one sheet at a time - least of all affects the work, but usually worn out more than others.These faults are typical for printers and MFPs Kyocera FS-1028, FS-1030, FS-1035, FS-2030, FS-2035, ECOSYS M2030dn, ECOSYS M2035dn, ECOSYS M2040dn, ECOSYS M2135dn, ECOSYS ECOSYS M2530dn, ECOSYS M2535dn, ECOSYS M2535dn, ECOSYS M2535dn M3540dn, ECOSYS M2540dn and on other printers and MFPs of Kioser (Kuoser).
The service kit consists of a pick-up roller, a feed roller and a separation roller and is designed for one tray.
The cost of replacing the pick roller, feed roller, and peel roller
Not so long ago, one of the Kyocera FS-2100dn printers, of which there are many in our organization, began to give a gray background when printing. As a rule, if there is a uniform gray background all over the sheet, and the image itself is printed normally, this is the fault of the developer (aka the development unit, aka the developer unit). More precisely, it is not he who is to blame, but the bad non-original toner, since Kyocera does not produce a separate toner for refueling, and most organizations prefer refueling because of imaginary savings.
In order to get rid of the gray background, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the developer from the accumulated toner, which we will now do.
The peculiarity of this printer is that it is not so easy to remove the developer, as it is done, for example, in the FS1370 or 1035, where it is simply pulled out of the printer case and easily inserted back, everything is a little more complicated here.
First you need to extract the part that stands in our way. It is detached on the left side (if we are facing the front of the printer). In the place surrounded by a circle, we find a lever, which we bend to the right, thereby freeing the left end of the part:
after which we take out the part by lifting it up (first the left side, then the right).
Now we will extract, in fact, the developer, which is fixed at two points. First you need to free the left edge. Find the plastic part shown in the photo below. At its narrow end, we find an arrow pointing into the depth of the printer. This very lever with an arrow must be gently pry up and pulled in the direction indicated by the arrow:
The extracted part looks like this:
We remove it aside, now we are ready to pull out our developer. On the right side, we find a lever that fixes the development unit, bend it to the left, finally freeing the developer:
After that, in a light circular motion, we pull the developer out:
You should not be too zealous, as you can damage the wires or board located on the left. The developer is connected to the board with a three-pin connector, we disconnect it:
Now that the developer is completely removed, we have to disassemble it to get to the toner accumulated inside and clean it properly with a vacuum cleaner.
Developer unit. used in Kyocera FS-3100dn printers is referred to as DV-3100. The developer cover is secured by seven latches that we need to release in sequence.
If everything is clear with latches 1-5, they are clearly visible from the outside, then with latches 6-7 it is more difficult. Personally, it seems to me that it is better to first remove the gear block shown on the left. It attaches with one screw and three small plastic clips on three sides:
After removing this block, we can freely remove the cover from the developer, sequentially prying each clamp. Disassembled, the developer looks like this:
Inside there is caked toner, which must be thoroughly cleaned out with a vacuum cleaner.
For those who do not know: to work with toner, it is strictly forbidden to use a regular household vacuum cleaner, since the toner perfectly penetrates the bag and is sprayed around the room.With vacuum cleaners in which a water filter is used, little will come of it either - toner no less calmly fly through the water in air bubbles. Only use special vacuum cleaners to work with toner. The most famous (and only one I know) is the 3M vacuum cleaner.
Do not be fooled by the amount of toner in the developer's cavity - it is in a pressed state, literally climbs out of all the cracks and is not going to run out in any way. Especially a lot of it "hides" between the body and the squeegee (metal plate) in a pressed form. Therefore, when cleaning the toner, it is necessary to lightly tap the developer so that the number crammed into different places appears.
In addition, when working with a vacuum cleaner, you need to be a little careful - the vacuum cleaner constantly strives to suck in the foam rubber gasket between the body and the lid (indicated by arrows in the figure).
That's all, actually. After a good cleaning, the gray background should disappear. Of course, it is better to immediately put the original toner cartridge, however, in the absence of such, the printer will cleanly print on the old one, for some time, after which it will have to be cleaned again.
There, on one of the shafts in the developer, which is under the hatch for the incoming toner, there is a spring on the left. Is that what she's there for? I have one end of the spring attached to the shaft, the second is not fixed anywhere. Probably this is not correct, but then where should it be attached?
What shaft are we talking about? Which is screw-like in a meat grinder?
Oh, unfortunately, I didn't take pictures. And the developer can not be removed - the printer is constantly in operation. So he left it as it is. there are 2 identical shafts, as if yes, they look like a meat grinder, they distribute the toner over the developer.
disassembled cleaned everything from the developer. I poured 100 g of compatible toner and put a cartridge with the same toner. As a result, the printer was printing for 4 hours, then it started to give an error "the development unit is not installed" Help, please. tell me what the problem might be
Ilya, such an error on kyocera often occurs if the toner has just run out.
Tell me what you need to put back to sleep, toner or developer (the same special powder) and do you even need to put something back to sleep? After cleaning, I began to print white sheets.
Hello. You do not need to fall asleep back. You need to put the cartridge into the unit, put it all into the printer, and tell the printer that it now has a new empty developer unit - select maintenance in the printer menu - a new developer unit (approximately) and restart. After that, ideally, the message “adding toner ...” should appear for a few minutes and everything should be sealed. If, after that, there are still white sheets, you need to see if the unit is assembled correctly, whether all the wiring is stuck in their places, whether toner is supplied to the developer, whether the flap opens freely, if it is not jammed (flap over the hole where toner should be poured).
Thank you very much, everything worked out.
the question may not be about the developer. but I will ask the printer, too, Kyocera FS-2100dn, and recently a small black dot began to be printed along the entire length of the sheet along the entire length of the sheet at a distance of about 1.5-2 cm bulldto on some shaft some kind of thing stuck. on what shaft can it be and how to get to it?
Good evening. First of all, I would look at the photo gallery.
Thanks a lot. The point of the toner roofing felts was just on the shaft of the charge block, it’s strange why the brush didn’t clean it off. With a slight movement, she pulled away.
please tell me, there is a similar FS4100, there is a vertical stripe (black from the edge) ... removed the charge moisture, examined the PhotoValle there are no defects, there are no defects on the magnetic shaft either, this stripe is clearly visible on the charge shaft (rubber) (carbon deposits from toner) tell me what you need make? and what to buy?
PRinter went through 30 thousand copies
Hey! I had a dark narrow strip, I consulted the service center. The guys assure that the fotoval in our model (FS-2100) should run 300,000 copies. So they advised me to wipe the charge shaft with alcohol, which helped me (I wiped it with an alcohol napkin from an army marching ration, then blew off the fibers).
Thank you very much, tomorrow I will wipe
Good day! There is a 4300 device, it began to give waves (the same as on HP devices), usually the replacement of the magnet and the metering blade helps the hp ... And there is nothing to change here, the cartridge is original, and this is not the first time. Replacing the entire developer unit helps, but this is not always the case for the client. What can you advise?
Good day!
Good afternoon! I have a keoser ecosis m6526cdn
I do not quite understand what this is about.
I apologize, I looked at the pictures (I did not see the device alive). It seems that your device has a separate developer for each cartridge. So the one under the blue is most likely boring to just clean.
Good afternoon, tell me please, the kyocera 2100 dn printer constantly adds toner, tried several cartridges, adds and adds all the time. how to defeat this?
Good afternoon.
The printer is not new, already for 50,000 copies, it worked well, but suddenly it stopped loading toner, the developer is empty, if I select a new developer from the menu, nothing happens. I restarted a bunch of times, it still adds and adds which cartridge do not install.
Then I can assume that the mechanism that opens the nozzles of the cartridge does not work. The developer waits for the toner, pumps it, but since the toner does not spill out, the process continues indefinitely.
There was such a thought, but how to fix it? that's the question?
Hello, there is a 4100dn printer. A strange thing - when printing on the left side of the page there is a short horizontal blurry line, and on the first pages it is almost invisible, on the second it is dim and on the third it is already brighter. the printer passed only 37 thousand.
Good afternoon. Horizontal exactly? Repeated periodically?
did not answer, I will write that I figured it out. Toner is stuck to the blade.
Good afternoon. The device kyocera 2100dn, writes "the development unit is not installed." A cartridge with a new chip, refilled. The developer itself also has toner. Sometimes the error disappears, but after restarting the device, it crashes again. Suspicions of some kind of contacts that determine the presence of drama in the printer, but where they can not figure out. I checked the contact on the chip.
FS-4300dn when printing on a sheet, the dots are always in different places. The device passed 345000. Drum was cleaning. I pour ED-40.
Video (click to play).
Good afternoon. Dismantled and cleaned the development unit. Now prints very dimly. Did the drum cleaning. Does not help. The reason for the parsing was - a strip on the side, which was not thin, but such a wide one. Fs 4200 418000 mileage. Should I buy spare parts or a developer unit or buy a new printer from a new line. (you need a speed of 50 • and I like the tank 3130)
