Do-it-yourself pilad sight repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a pilad sight from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Repair of the optical sight VOMZ-P
Sooner or later, a normal Russian person has a desire to disassemble this optical device and look into his soul, for the purpose of self-complacency - HE IS NOT the cause of all troubles when shooting. I hasten to upset you! In 99% of cases, NOT HE.
I also had such a desire. After two days of unsuccessfully surfing the net, I could not find a FULL description of the device and disassembly of this very common sight.
And constantly coming across recommendations to UNSASSEMBLE optics caused me only an evil smile)))).
This sight is designed according to the principle “the simpler, the more reliable”.
That is, there is practically nothing to break there. It is possible in RARE cases that the lens with a mesh applied from the sleeve to which it is firmly glued is unstuck, it is also possible that the pressure spring of the lens may be displaced (which is very unlikely), there may be a loosening on the thread (screwed tightly and glued at the factory) of the lens-reversing system (a small tube inside with a set of lenses Everything: Everything else is treated "superficially" indiscriminately, such as unscrewing the lenses, loosening the pressure washers-drums (under the adjusting drums), biting and loosening the adjusting drums.

Video (click to play).

1 - lens; 2-handle; 3 - eyepiece; 4 - cover; 5 - screw; 6-grid;
7-lens reversing system; 8 - scale of angles of lateral corrections;
9 - scale of aiming angles; 10 - adjusting ring. (FIG1)

Disassembly
Unscrew the front and rear lenses (photo2)
TURNING ON (clockwise) the adjusting drums, unscrew them, unscrew the pressure washers under them (photo 3) .. ALARM. under this washers there are springs with balls that will jump out (if you do not screw the adjusting drums to the end) (photo 4)
Unscrew the two pressure bolts (photo 5)
We unscrew (after clearing the groove for the screwdriver from the paint with a needle) two locking bolts (photo 6)
Unscrew half of the tube (photo 7)
Neatly. pressing from the opposite (front) side of the guide and at the same time pressing on the threaded bushings of the adjusting bolts EXTRUDE the cassette with the adjusting lens. (photo 8), take out the lens from the cassette (do not touch the lens glass with your fingers)
In the remaining half of the tube, there will be a "lens-turning system", which I did not touch. It is also locked with a microbolt and, if desired, should not cause problems when unscrewing.

Assembly
When assembling, we assemble everything in the reverse order.
We carefully check each lens for smudges with a finger and attracted dust and lint. Wipe with zero pressure with a ONE-SIDED motion if necessary.
When connecting the tubes, a couple of drops of sealant (if more, then all the chances cannot be disassembled a second time) inward on the thread in the area of the holes for the counter bolts.
When assembling the pressure plates, carefully (not like mine))) apply a sealant to prevent moisture from entering. (photo9)
Well, further lenses and so on:

Where were you when I took apart my scope a year ago?
And in essence - thanks for the murzilka!

Thanks for the aiming instruction!

I'll do archeology. I can not unscrew the lens with the diopter stop. how to do it? at the end something rests and that's it

But should brass crap move freely in a cassette with a reg lens?

quote: Originally posted by Knocked:
But should brass crap move freely in a cassette with a reg lens?

I want to ask the respected members of the forum for advice on repairing Pilada.
Recently a murka, leaning against the wall, fell to the floor. At sight. F (

The lenses are intact, but there is a gap in the sight tube, just at the junction of the eyepiece tube with the drum unit (in photo N6, the screwdriver points to the right place).

Do you think the wrapping system and the amending mechanics are intact?

Advise how to properly assemble and tighten the scope, so that later there will be no backlashes. After the impact, the thread of the eyepiece tube could be damaged.

The reversing system inside it will not be affected by anything (if there is no deformation of the sight tube), as well as to the mechanism of corrections. Disassemble the connection, if there is no pipe fracture, assemble and use. If you disassemble it, take a photo if possible and put it here.

Thanks a lot. Today, alas, my hands did not reach, so I will try to open the vomza after Monday. And by the way, can you apply nail polish instead of a sealant to the threads of pipes or locking bolts? My black silicone sealant smells suspiciously of vinegar, so I don't want to smear it into the scope.

After the varnish, it is confusing. Better a "suspicious" sealant.

Unfortunately, the scope was still damaged.

While wiping the eyepiece with alcohol, the alcohol leaked under the sealant between the two lenses. It turned out to be an ugly thorn, which interfered with aiming. So the scope is not sealed at all and can be easily damaged by water (rain).

Yesterday I tried to pull out the eyepiece lens, but to no avail - there is nothing to grab, but it doesn’t fall out. The washer holding it is very easy to unscrew.
Today the thorn is dry and is not particularly visible in the light.

Maybe then I'll try to get to him.

quote: Originally posted by Bsod:

Yesterday I tried to pull out the eyepiece lens, but to no avail - there is nothing to grab, but it doesn’t fall out.

It is very convenient to remove lenses with a suction cup from a soap dish that is attached to the tile

Good day, everyone. For 2 years I have been the owner of the MP-512 ap, and for a year now I bought a VOMZ Pilad 4x32 sight for it. Since August there was no opportunity to shoot, so the rifle with the scope was in the cabinet in an upright position. Now he took it in his hands and noticed that the sight was dimmed. If you look at a bright light, such as a flashlight, you can see that a layer of dust has formed on the inside of the lens I look into when firing. I decided to disassemble the sight and clean it, and here a problem arose already at the first paragraph of the disassembly guide from the author of the topic: I tried to unscrew the cone with the lens, but after a certain number of revolutions it rested, and I am afraid to apply force. In Figure 2, the cone with the lens is already located separately from the main body, how can I achieve the same result, maybe there are some secrets? Thanks in advance for any answers.

This cone does not hold anything on the thread, there may be dirt or remnants of worn threads (that is, we get the effect of unscrewing a nut on a dirty bolt), it may well be that on some batches of sights they practiced countering this thread from the inside with varnish (which is VERY unlikely ). In this case, you need to unscrew the rear lenses and try to find the cause "from the inside". At the back there are two lenses and between them there is the so-called dust (in fact, this is glass working from the movement of glasses in the tubes (that is, it's time to disassemble in any case). Sometimes these lenses are glued to the lacquer-eaten with acetic acid from a syringe (without fanaticism). I would try to wet the thread with a VDshka with back and forth twists.

I will throw a video on the correct installation of optics, so as not to lose.
In principle, a man does everything competently.

1 - lens; 2-handle; 3 - eyepiece; 4 - cover; 5 - screw; 6-grid;
7-lens reversing system; 8 - scale of angles of lateral corrections;
9 - scale of aiming angles; 10 - adjusting ring. (FIG1)

Disassembly
Unscrew the front and rear lenses (photo2)
TURNING ON (clockwise) the adjusting drums, unscrew them, unscrew the pressure washers under them (photo 3) .. ALARM. under this washers there are springs with balls that will jump out (if you do not screw the adjusting drums to the end) (photo 4)
Unscrew the two pressure bolts (photo 5)
We unscrew (after clearing the groove for the screwdriver from the paint with a needle) two locking bolts (photo 6)
Unscrew half of the tube (photo 7)
Neatly. pressing from the opposite (front) side of the guide and at the same time pressing on the threaded bushings of the adjusting bolts EXTRUDE the cassette with the adjusting lens. (photo 8), take out the lens from the cassette (do not touch the lens glass with your fingers)
The remaining half of the tube will remain, which I did not touch. It is also locked with a microbolt and, if desired, should not cause problems when unscrewing.

It is best to entrust the repair of the optical sight to a specialist, but if there is none nearby, we take matters into our own hands. In general terms, this article will help you understand the structure of optical sights, learn how to disassemble them and carry out the simplest repair work. Stock up on patience and attentiveness - we are immersed in the precise world of optics.

Optical sight device

Before we climb into the insides of the optical sight, let's figure out its technical structure. The sight consists of the following components:

Before disassembling the scope, make sure you have the necessary tools and “accessories”. You will need:

repair kit (set of flat screwdrivers);
inexpensive transparent sealant (solvent free);
cotton swabs;
a clean cotton rag;
jars (for storing small bolts);
flashlight.

As an example, consider the disassembly of the VOMZ-P model. You will be faced with the following configuration:

lens;
eyepiece;
lever;
screw;
lid;
net;
angular scale of lateral corrections;
lens wrapping system;
setting ring;
aiming angle scale.

First you have to unscrew the lenses (back / front). The adjusting drums are screwed in until they stop (hour hand), then they are unscrewed together with the pressure washers. Then, in turn, the push and lock bolts are unscrewed. Half the pipe is unscrewed. The cassette containing the adjustment lens is gently extruded.

The lens-reversing system is localized in the remaining segment of the tube. If desired, it is easy to unscrew it - the system is locked by one microbolt.

The structure is assembled in reverse order. Pay attention to the smudged lenses - they should not be touched with fingers. The lenses are wiped with one-way movements (zero pressure).

Now is the time to study the fastening of the base units of the telescopic sight. Please note that this is a fragile device, so you need to disassemble it with utmost care. He starts to mess around after about one and a half thousand shots. To prevent future problems, tighten the mounting screws, watch out for horizontal guidance.

This video explains how the telescopic sight works and how to repair it (model Leapers 3-9 × 40):

Lenses for hunting weapons have a large diameter, designed for shooting at short distances (150-200 meters). Hunting optics have many rubbing surfaces that wear out over time. Backlash, mechanical displacements and optical parallaxes appear.

Optical sight lens diagram

The lenses are attached with a sealant. Having disassembled the scope according to our instructions, you reach the ring nut holding the crosspiece. Further, the procedure is as follows:

squeezing out the cassette (do not lose the pressure spring);
unscrewing the front nut, lens and guide screws (2 pcs.);
removing the adjustment lenses from the inner cylinder (this must be done carefully, without giving the cylinder a vertical position);
memorizing the location of the lenses;
repair.

If the retaining ring is unscrewed at the trim lens (more often the front one), the thread will have to be lubricated with a sealant. After waiting for drying, assemble the entire structure in the reverse order.

In the course of repair actions, you will inevitably come across a pressure spring, which you need not only to save, but also to make sure its functionality.

The loosened screws and nuts (if they do not twist well) should be placed on a sealant. Now the repaired structure, together with the spring, must be pushed back into the pipe - this is a rather time-consuming process. One end of the spring should end with teeth, the other should be completely smooth.

If necessary (the presence of chipping) the second end of the spring must be sanded. The spring is installed in the central part of the sight - between the holes for the adjustment drums. The pipe is pushed onto the cassette with the assembled lenses, while the spring must be held through the holes.

Not all parts and assemblies of an optical sight need lubrication. And even more precisely - only rings need it. Getting grease on the lens surface is highly undesirable. For the lubrication procedure you will need:

alignment control rods;
abrasive lapping paste;
tool (torque screwdrivers, wrenches and levels);
lock for threaded connections.

Aluminum, steel and titanium rings are used to mount the sight. After lubricating them, set the scope so that the nuts are on the other side of the receiver port and bolt handle.

The video shows how to properly clean the telescopic sight:

The basis of the reticle glow is an LED lamp. It is connected to the battery, but does not receive energy directly, but through the stabilizer. With the check of the stabilizer and you need to start the repair activity.Having disassembled the microscopic power supply, take a closer look at the ballast resistor (capacitor). If the resistor is burnt out, it must be replaced. Sometimes the diodes in the rectifier also burn out - they should also be checked. A third potential problem is low impedance current limiting resistors.If the LED is of Asian origin, it means that a primitive Chinese capacitor has burned out. Replace it with a new one and live in peace.For instructions on how to aim a telescopic sight on an air rifle, follow this link. The choice of distance and target for sighting.In modern optics, a luminous aiming mark with brightness control is used. The backlight of the stamp should turn off automatically after a certain time. This saves battery power as many shooters forget to disconnect the battery. In general, aiming marks are of the following types:The aiming mark tends to shift due to recoil - this should not be allowed. Paradox: the mobility of the aiming mark is encouraged when the rifle is zeroed in. The mark is adjusted by turning the drum (you need to focus on the number of clicks). The offset scale varies depending on the scope model and manufacturer.Having found a displacement of the mark, it is worth investigating the mount of the scope - have you done everything correctly? Correct mounting is a guarantee of a long service life of your aiming system.It is not worth saving by purchasing cheap mounts - this is self-deception, leading to a loss of accuracy.The process of converging the mechanical and optical axes"Zeroing" the sight (adjustment) Is the process of converging the mechanical and optical axes. The need for adjustment arises after purchasing a new sight - the shooter is not yet sure of the correctness of the range set by the correction drums. The adjustment sequence is as follows:

The vertical correction drum is turned down all the way, and the horizontal drum - all the way to the left.

Vertical and horizontal drums click ("up" and "right", respectively). In this case, it is necessary to count the number of clicks over the entire range.

To reduce the frequency of repair work, protect your scope from bad weather - heat, humidity and direct sunlight. Cover the lenses with caps, avoid mechanical damage and contact with the lenses of harmful substances (lubricants, alcohol solutions). Check the internal mountings periodically (every 1000-1500 shots). Have a good hunting!Everything about hunting and fishing in the Republic of Belarus - forums prof3ss0r Dec 10, 2013 12:42 pmI have never seen such a topic, so I will be the first to hike. I was once engaged in the repair of photo-optics very thoroughly, so the simplest design of optical sights is like two fingers for me.
Plus, I learned a lot of nuances from a friend who worked at BelOMO before (sort of), in short, he assembled sights at the factory.
And if many people understand rifles well, they understand about sights only by hearsay. So I decided on the example of one work, to show “what-to-what”.So we are talking about a visually similar series of scopes - these are BSA, NIKON, and all that look like our patient 8-32x. Our experimental BSA 8-32x44:Pros of the series: Very light and high-quality optics, no chromatic aberrations, absolutely flat picture and very contrast (the Hawke sidewinder 6-24 × 56 picture is worse! I personally checked it and was amazed), very sharp parallax - at maximum magnification you can measure the distance up to up to centimeters probably Image - DIY Pilad Sight Repair

, the declared multiplicity corresponds to the actual! - What is actually a very rare occurrence even for expensive scopes, the reticle is not thick as on all Chinese, it is approximately comparable to the reticle on Deltas of the middle price range.
In short, it is these Chinese who are made from the "waste" of the production of very high-quality brothers

, well, the most delicious price is only $ 100-150, depending on where to get it.

cons of the series: Chinese assembly.

The components are gorgeous, but the build spoils everything. Lenses can wobble on a new one, and amendments are introduced only from half of the entire range, because the return spring is generally incorrectly matched to the overall design. "Soft" clicks of the drums (this is so.).

As you can see, the pluses are very tempting, but they are nothing if the sight “does not work” because it’s assembled badly. The coolest thing is that it's all solvable! Let's go!

A bit of history: I got this sight in a set, from a Minsk comrade when exchanging rifles. Later, the sight was sold to Alcoholic, but during the shooting it turned out that the amendments were not “introduced” at all!
Before selling it, I naturally checked and shot it, so there was no limit to surprise, but naturally I immediately took it back and returned the money, because I know the main drawback of the whole series - the return spring.

We start disassembly:
You can unscrew the parallax adjustment drum plug with your fingers, but if it doesn't unscrew, we spoil it with pliers, there is no way out. I twisted it off with my fingers.

With tweezers, a pair of compasses, or any handy pribluda, we embroider the retainer ring

An enthusiast forum for enthusiasts.

Message Oz174 »17 Nov 2015, 01:31

Good to all.

In stock I had 2 software Vomz4x32 Pilad, faulty.
One had a lot of debris on the glasses + fatty stains + did not reset to the desired point, the second had STP jumps when shooting.

I started repairing, and I am doing something like this for the first time, from the first sight.

Disassembled.
Prepared alcohol 96.6 ″, 2 squirrel brushes, syringe, cosmetic disks, cotton swabs.

Message Oz174 »17 Nov 2015, 01:40

Message Oz174 »17 Nov 2015, 01:46

Message Oz174 »17 Nov 2015, 01:50

The assembled software was visually inspected - the glass is clean, there are no debris or streaks.

The software is mounted on the device for zeroing.

Message Oz174 »17 Nov 2015, 11:50

Message Oz174 »17 Nov 2015, 12:24

Message loganovoditel »17 Nov 2015, 12:33

Message Oz174 »17 Nov 2015, 12:52

I previously imagined changing the parallax on womz differently

Today the case helped - the second vomz4x32, disassembled.

Message loganovoditel »17 Nov 2015, 13:25

Message Oz174 »18 Nov 2015, 20:03

I also didn’t like Vomz8x48 earlier and I was ready to throw it on sale (vision, minimum distance of image clarity, walking the marker relative to the target when the pupil was displaced.

Vomz4x32-when resetting to zero, they were just as upset, because with such a run-up, it is useless to shoot the ZM (at 21, for the sowing, most likely I will not have time

), but no one bothers me to shoot at 25m in the clearing.
It's good that the second scope was with a twisted lens.
Found a way to fix: ura1:.
Today I wanted to shoot a leaf in a clearing at -19 ″ C, but did not have time in time - it was dusk.
I'll try it tomorrow before lunch, but I can't promise.

At the second 4x32 Pilad, the right pedestal of the Tower has flaws in the fastening - the thread is torn off.
This is similar and helped to "jump" STF.

I'll try to fix the screw with a latch.
If it doesn't work, it means cutting the thread to the next size, it's bad that there is no hardened screw for the repair size.
I will try to harden it in graphite.

I have prepared 2 rings 0.9mm, 2 rings 1.4mm - tomorrow I will compare the pictures of sights at different distances.
My decision is not a panacea, because my eyesight has gone down with age and I now have farsightedness.

Topic: "The Pilad 4x32 sight floated" - Optical, collimator sights and other sights - All about weapons - Main section - Forums of the Open Club St. Petersburg Hunter

The Pilad 4x32 sight swam. Used on smooth and pneumatics True, the total shot was of the order of several thousand (xs lope) and about 250 - 300 from a smooth one, only this year.
Presumably, the spring has sat down on the correction mechanism
I chose a day off to slowly try to fix
And that sight

We remove the drums. We remove the drums. We remove the drums. The image is no longer inserted)))))) I'll try later

Gently take out a ball with a spring

We do the same operations with vertical corrections.

Let's chew. see))))
Until then, let's continue
The drums were removed, now we unscrew the locking screws (2) on the correction mechanism in order to untwist the pipe.

Well, we untwist it, just with our hands.

We take out the mechanism of corrections

Here is her darling and bend it.
Well, we assemble in the reverse order, I missed the silicone grease for one.

Please pay attention to the mechanism for entering amendments.
I like the mechanism of this design very, very strong. It is one of the most perfect and durable, and was used in the famous PU-3.5 by 24 and some. others, including Zeiss models, from where and, IMHO, came.

A notable feature of the mechanism is that the vertical and horizontal corrections are not tied to each other.
The design of the mechanism requires precise fit and cleanliness of processing, but if done correctly, then many thousands of shots will not loosen the knot.
It happens that the brass sliders in the dovetail joints (the third picture of post # 3) start to play.
A similar repair is applicable to all models with a similar design of the correction input unit.
The spring (spring) about which VLAS speaks can sit down only in one case!

WHEN TURNING FROM STOP TO STOP!

Never rotate the correction drums from stop to stop! Not all models have spring compression limiters !!
I repeat this advice many times, perhaps someone has not heard before.

Message Aleksey74 "26 Feb 2010, 11:54.

For repair you will need:
1) a set of flat screwdrivers from the kit (I have a kit for repairing cell phones, it costs 200 rubles)
2) CLEAN-white (it is better to wash at all) HBshnaya cloth, cotton swabs.
3) Inexpensive (solvent-free) transparent sealant.
4) A flashlight is desirable, to shine in a tube. (photo1)
5) Jars for small bolts (required)
Sight device:
1 - lens; 2-handle; 3 - eyepiece; 4 - cover; 5 - screw; 6-grid;
7-lens reversing system; 8 - scale of angles of lateral corrections;
9 - scale of aiming angles; 10 - adjusting ring. (FIG1)

Repair of the optical sight VOMZ-P
Sooner or later, a normal Russian person has a desire to disassemble this optical device and look into his soul, for the purpose of self-complacency - HE IS NOT the cause of all troubles when shooting. I hasten to upset you! In 99% of cases, NOT HE.
I also had such a desire. After two days of unsuccessfully surfing the net, I could not find a FULL description of the device and disassembly of this very common sight.
And constantly coming across recommendations to UNSASSEMBLE optics caused me only an evil smile)))).
This sight is designed according to the principle.
That is, there is practically nothing to break there. It is possible in RARE cases that the lens with a mesh applied from the sleeve to which it is firmly glued is unstuck, it is also possible that the pressure spring of the lens may be displaced (which is very unlikely), it is possible for a loosening on the thread (screwed tightly and glued at the factory) of the lens-reversing system (a small tube inside with a set of lenses Everything: Everything else is treated indiscriminately, such as unscrewing the lenses, loosening the pressure washers-drums (under the adjusting drums), biting and loosening the adjusting drums.

For repair you will need:

1) a set of flat screwdrivers from the kit (I have a kit for repairing cell phones, it costs 200 rubles)
2) CLEAN-white (it is better to wash at all) HBshnaya cloth, cotton swabs.
3) Inexpensive (solvent-free) transparent sealant.
4) A flashlight is desirable, to shine in a tube. (photo1)
5) Jars for small bolts (required)

Sight device:

1 - lens; 2-handle; 3 - eyepiece; 4 - cover; 5 - screw; 6-grid;
7-lens reversing system; 8 - scale of angles of lateral corrections;
9 - scale of aiming angles; 10 - adjusting ring. (FIG1)

Disassembly
Unscrew the front and rear lenses (photo2)

TURNING ON (clockwise) the adjusting drums, unscrew them, unscrew the pressure washers under them (photo 3)

..ALYARM. under this washers there are springs with balls that will jump out (if you do not screw the adjusting drums to the end) (photo 4)

Unscrew the two pressure bolts (photo 5)

We unscrew (after clearing the groove for the screwdriver from the paint with a needle) two locking bolts (photo 6)

Unscrew half of the tube (photo 7)

Carefully . pressing from the opposite (front) side of the guide and at the same time pressing on the threaded bushings of the adjusting bolts EXTRUDE the cassette with the adjusting lens. (photo8)

, take out the lens from the cassette (do not touch the lens glass with your fingers)
The remaining half of the tube will remain, which I did not touch. It is also locked with a microbolt and, if desired, should not cause problems when unscrewing.

Assembly
When assembling, we assemble everything in the reverse order.
We carefully check each lens for smudges with a finger and attracted dust and lint. Wipe with zero pressure with a ONE-SIDED motion if necessary.
When connecting the tubes, a couple of drops of sealant (if more, then all the chances cannot be disassembled a second time) inward on the thread in the area of the holes for the counter bolts.
When assembling the pressure plates, carefully (not like mine))) apply a sealant to prevent moisture from entering. (photo9)

Now in which direction to pick, I can’t put my mind to it. I tried to fold the scope's eyepiece casing, but it didn't work. It looks like it was assembled, even though it was on the thread, but the glue was applied beforehand. I'll climb through the lens.

An attempt to unscrew the plastic nut on the cross with homemade "screwdrivers" led to a split along the splines of this ring.

Screwdrivers made from spatulas from a hardware store. Their steel is strong, and the price is a penny.

The ring itself does not have any important functions.

Disassembled the lens, there are small chips on the lens.

There is a powerful conical spring inside the lens cone.

But there is still a breakpoint. We need to get something to the inner lenses. They are likely to blurt out.

The front lens of the multiplicity system thundered (the Chinese did not apply glue to the lens mounting ring). When I knocked out the tube for adjusting the multiplicity, the cross burst. Having dealt with the sight device, I realized one thing - when installing the sight on the rifle, it is necessary to bore the bracket rings so that in the zero position of the sight the cross itself is already close to the ideal position, then during the final adjustment the cross guidance system will be in alignment with the body of the sight itself, which means the sight will not "float", which means it will live long.

For boring rings, I think a metal rod wrapped in sandpaper will go. The diameter of the rod should be close in size to the diameter of the sight.

The sight is worth, I think, within 2 thousand rubles. I'm thinking of buying a new one the same, the scope is generally not bad. Now I use a Lippers, which, as I understand it, has a plate spring that sags the guidance system of the cross. I want to install a third bolt on it, with which, after shooting, I will press the cross guidance system.

And so I am writing what I did after the repair. But for the sake of order, I’ll first clarify the little things.
Rifle Gamo Shadow CSI, GP from Wado, Crosman Premier 10.5 bullets (0.68g), Bushnell banner 4 × 32 sight, it says made in Japan on the packaging (they also write on the fences.).
Distance 30m, the first bullet did not hit the A4 sheet at all! After manipulating the drums of the amendments, there were no significant improvements. A rifle with a full drum of horizontal corrections and screwed in vertically shoots heap 30 cm higher and to the left of the aiming point, about 11 o'clock.
What are your opinions on further repairs? And to be honest, I already do not have enough anger at him. While I struggle with the burning urge to use him as a target.

# 947 SP
P.M. C [/ B] [/ QUOTE]
I would put the correction drums in the middle position and aim them, without touching the drums, at 10m, using pads made of plates, thickness

0.2-0.3mm. Between the sight tube and the front bracket. I had to do this on Murka, since over time, the barrel lifted up and there were not enough corrections. Therefore, I refused to breakage. (No offense) On my sight, for more accurate and comfortable shooting, at every distance from which I am going to shoot, I adjust from parallax.

All-Russian Society of fans of pneumatic weapons

In stock I had 2 software Vomz4x32 Pilad, faulty.
One had a lot of debris on the glasses + fatty stains + did not reset to the desired point, the second had STP jumps when shooting.

I started repairing, and I am doing something like this for the first time, from the first sight.

Disassembled.
Prepared alcohol 96.6 ″, 2 squirrel brushes, syringe, cosmetic disks, cotton swabs. Attachments

Looking ahead, I will share:
washing with alcohol, syringing, rubbing and even a vacuum cleaner did not remove stains from the glass, then I remembered the old-fashioned way - cleaning the glass with ashes of cotton fabric or paper (no synthetics.

Ashes smeared on an ear stick and allowed to give the glass cleanliness.
After cleaning, I thoroughly vacuumed it, screwed the lens onto 2 threads of the thread, greased the rest of the thread with sealant and twisted it. Attachments

The assembled software was visually inspected - the glass is clean, there are no debris or streaks.

The software is mounted on the device for zeroing.

The process of zeroing itself will be done tomorrow. Attachments

Zeroed the sight in the morning.

On this sight, I noticed that by shifting the pupil from the optical line, the PO marker (bird) moves by 1.5 cm and this is by 8 m. Attachments

2 Vomza4x32, judging by the grids, there is a difference of 10-13 years (mil-Dot and PSO-1, distance 1.7m) and Vomz8x48 — all “walk” when the pupil is displaced relative to the optical line.

According to Vomz4x32, according to my eyes, a 0.95mm washer is needed for the reparallax - from 9m everything is clear, A4 with text is clearly visible.
With 1.3mm washer, clearly visible from 7 meters.

Now I decide which washers to put.

At the second 4x32 Pilad, the right pedestal of the Tower has flaws in the fastening - the thread is torn off.
This is similar and helped to "jump" STF.

I'll try to fix the screw with a latch.
If it doesn't work, it means cutting the thread to the next size, it's bad that there is no hardened screw for the repair size.
I will try to harden it in graphite.

I have prepared 2 rings 0.9mm, 2 rings 1.4mm - tomorrow I will compare the pictures of sights at different distances.
My decision is not a panacea, because my eyesight has gone down with age and I now have farsightedness.

Played with rings 1.4 / 1.3 / 1.2mm.

Stopped at 1.3mm. Attachments

I drove the carving under the pedestal, changed the screw.
I put it on the retainer.

Here's a screw came out. although screwed in with a normal thread. Attachments

You have rebuilt the parallax at 9m. That is why the aiming mark stopped “crawling” at 9m. Try a different distance. She will “crawl” again. For this, sights are made with parallax detuning so that they do not “crawl” at the required distance.

And that is why the rifle tab is so important when shooting with optics (even if the rifle is without recoil, like pneumatics). So that the eye is always in the same position relative to the scope. Better on the optical axis. (And this is precisely why it is desirable that the sight sit on the rifle straight, so that the adjustments do not compensate for the curvature of the installation. For then this very axis is curved and where it is located - it is more difficult to determine. And it is more difficult to invest correctly).

Moreover, in comparison with the stock Vomz4x32, the cross crawls 75-80m much more, approximately 20-30cm.

It was impossible to double-check at night.
There was a thought that he had moved the setting "closer" - to pneumatic distances - Vomz was sharpened at firearm distances.
Today I double-checked - we need to do the software configuration more thoughtfully.

Here the question is different - in the psychological barrier - what if I break it? upset the device? Overcoming the fear, “digging” in an accurate device and then getting the result, even if at 9m - I think, is no longer bad.
Let's just say I tried it with pens.

Agree, basic. but when knowledge is reinforced by practice, you better understand the nuances that you previously ignored or did not pay attention to.

Video (click to play).

AndrewK73, Thank you for your participation in this issue.

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