Regardless of the reliability and quality of the snow blower, its owner should carefully study the design and be able to repair the unit. This will save you a lot of time and money. Moreover, the owner will always know that he installed a really high-quality part, and he was not deceived at the service.
Each of the breakdowns on the snow blower is a direct result of the owner's mishandling of the machine. As a rule, this is due to the lack of desire among the owners to carefully study the operating instructions for the machine. Less often, the cause of the breakdown lies in the factory defect of the elements of the snow blower.
Be that as it may, there are a number of typical breakdowns that are characteristic of each unit, regardless of its design and manufacturer. These include:
In various models of snow blowers, there may be other breakdowns associated with the design features of these snow blowers. For example, repairs to Craftsman snow blowers often focus on troubleshooting the outlet chute. In this case, the first thing to do is to make sure that the safety bolts and the worm gear are intact. To do this, you will need to dismantle and disassemble the gearbox of the unit. This is done in the following order:
For Patriot snowblowers, one of the most common problems is the lack of starting the engine. In such cases, experts advise to check the engine compression immediately. If this indicator is within 6-8 atmospheres, then the problem can be eliminated by replacing the old starter cord. To do this, you need to act in this order:
If this does not help, then you will have to buy a new engine for the snow blower.
Owners of Profi brand snowblowers often have to figure out why their unit is not going forward. The reason for this may be hidden in the gearbox of the machine. To quickly fix the problem, it is necessary to disassemble the assembly and replace the damaged gear inside it.
Owners of Energoprom snow blowers often do not know what to do with excessive vibration of equipment motors. First of all, you need to check the reliability of the support frames and mountings for the engine of the unit. It is often sufficient to simply tighten the mounting bolts further and the problem will disappear immediately.
In order not to have to think for a long time about how to start a snow blower motor and why it constantly stalls, you should adhere to a number of preventive measures that will help extend the life of household equipment. So, a very important rule is the correct preparation of the unit for storage in the spring and summer. The owner of the car is required to:
The quality of the oil used is an important factor. It is best to use a seasonal lubricant that does not have a high viscosity. Such a composition will be evenly distributed among important parts and mechanisms, and retain its characteristics for a long time.
Of course, there is no need to argue about the usefulness of such a technique, but quite often there are unpleasant situations associated with certain problems in operation, as well as breakdowns of some working units of the unit.
Contacting a service center, in this case, may not always be justified, because the cost of repairs and delivery times for some components are unlikely to please you. Then people have a desire - to make repairs to the snowblower with their own hands.
Snow blowers may differ in their technical characteristics, type of movement and engine, but the general structure will be similar. Basically, it can be noted a standard set of basic components, which includes any snow blower:
Basically, this is a pretty standard list of what makes up a snow blower. Some models may have additional controls, but this is not so important for the overall concept.
VIDEO
Generally, in a snowblower a lot of spare parts can break and accessories (see here). According to experts, the breakdown itself occurs as a result of improper operation of the unit by the person himself.
Snow blower breakdown
No wonder, in many application manuals it is directly written - before starting work, carefully read the instructions for the unit. But, the buyer very rarely adheres to this rule. First, the technique is used, it then breaks down, and then the person looks into the instructions.
By the way, it contains quite useful information, in particular, how to fill in oil, how to start, what levers to press, etc.
There are several major breakdowns in a snowblower:
In principle, most of these breakdowns lead to the fact that the snow blower simply will not start. Therefore, repair or replacement of components should be carried out as soon as possible.
There are a large number of specialized trolleys, adapted to perform specific functions. So, for example, shopping carts are used to transport products through the territory of supermarkets.
The gas cylinder trolleys are only suitable for transporting the cylinder.
Stud carts are needed for the transportation of dishes at catering establishments, as well as for organizing self-service.
Different models of snow blowers can have quite various breakdowns some components and work units.This is due, mainly, in the individual features of the device of individual machines, as well as in some design points.
At the same time, the repair methods will be almost identical to those for other models of snow blowers. Let's look at some specific examples. renovation made in home conditions.
If the snow blowers Craftsman the discharge chute does not work correctly , i.e. does not throw out the snow mass outside, then you need to do a few manipulations. First, check the safety bolts have not been cut off, located to the left and right of the gearbox (see here).
If it's not about them, then the whole repair process will be reduced to the following:
Disconnect the bucket from the frame structure of the snow blower.
We take out the gearbox.
Next you need open up him and check the worm, located on the shaft. Most often, the problem is in it - it is cut off the shaft.
Repair will consist in the acquisition of a new worm pair, which you want to install on the shaft.
Quite often a situation arises when engine snowblower simply does not start ... To fix this breakdown you need:
Necessary check engine compression using a compressometer. The optimal value is from 6 to 9 atmospheres. If it is normal, then go to the next step.
Problem maybe in starter The repair of the starter itself consists mainly in replacing the cord with a new one. The starter design provides a return mechanism, as well as a hole where the cord is threaded.
First you need cut off old cord, and inside the starter, untie the cord knot that holds it.
We rotate the mechanism counterclockwise doing 7 full turns. We insert a screwdriver between the ribs to block the return movement of the mechanism.
Further stick new cord into the corresponding hole, at its end it is necessary to tie a fairly tight knot.
Further, simply remove the screwdriver holding the cord. The return mechanism will wind the cord around the spool itself.
Patriot
If during operation, you notice that the Energoprom snow blower issues abnormal vibration it is necessary check engine mount ... Most likely, the point is in him, and you just need tighten these fasteners better.
Often, this snow blower has certain gearbox problems. Repair of the gearbox of the Profi snow blower consists mainly of in gear replacement , which is located inside. During operation, it tends to wear out, which leads to problems in work.
All repairs are reduced to replacing it for a new part purchased from a specialist store.
As said earlier - the most important reason probable breakdowns is an misuse devices. The same can be said for storing the snow blower. Many people think that all storage is to tidy up the unit in a dry place until it is needed again.
This approach is fundamentally wrong, which leads to numerous problems in the future.
Change of oil
Generally, correct preservation will look like this:
After the end of winter , i.e. after the end of the direct work of the snow blower, it is necessary drain from him oil and fuel.
Wipe dry a rag all over frame , and then put it away in a dry place.
Before winter , need to to deactivate , i.e. fill in new oil, check belt tension, check spark plugs, etc.
An important issue will be the choice of oil that you are going to use. The optimal solution will use seasonal oil which has less viscosity. At the same time, you do not need to look at the brand that produces the oil.
First of all, you need to choose an oil based on the model of the engine used.In principle, the operating instructions indicate exactly what kind of oil is recommended for a particular model of the snow blower, so this is another reason to look into the instructions after all.
Snowblowers for summer cottages are I am faithful helpers any owner in the winter. How responsibly and competently you approach the operation of this unit depends on its performance, as well as the overall service life.
remember, that prevention and prevention possible breakdowns will allow substantially reduce the cost of purchasing additional consumables, and carrying out the necessary repairs.
There are many drawings and projects on how to make a snow blower with your own hands and this collection is constantly updated. This is due to the exclusive performance of the technique, since each craftsman makes his own adjustments. One rule remains unchanged for homemade products. Users recommend assembling a single-stage auger machine to residents of the middle lane. The two-stage screw rotor unit is more difficult to assemble, but it has a high performance. It is optimal to have such a snowblower for residents of snowy regions.
Any do-it-yourself snow blowers created may have slight differences in the design of the mechanisms that make the machines exclusive. But the craftsman assembles the main working units using an already developed scheme. To search for such a project, it is enough to dive into the Internet or contact a friend who has already made a snow blower for the house.
Let's start an overview of the snow blower device with the engine. It can be electric or gasoline powered. A machine with an electric motor is easier to manufacture, more economical to operate and requires virtually no maintenance. A snow blower with a gasoline engine is much more powerful, it is not afraid of moisture, plus the car becomes mobile due to the lack of attachment to the outlet.
A feature of the device of snowplowing equipment is the presence of a rotor or auger. Combined models have both nodes. The rotor is an impeller with blades rotating on bearings inside a steel casing. It's easy to make. It is more difficult for snow blowers to make an auger. Here you need to develop drawings.
The sequence for assembling the auger is as follows:
The shaft is made from a pipe, welded at the ends of the bearing trunnion, and two rectangular steel plates in the center. These will be the shoulder blades.
Four discs with a diameter of 280 mm are cut from thick rubber or steel with a thickness of 2 mm.
A hole is drilled in the center of each workpiece, equal to the thickness of the shaft, after which one side of the resulting ring is sawn.
A spiral is bent from the cut disk and fixed to the shaft. On the left side, two discs are placed with directed turns towards the blades. Do the same on the right side of the shaft.
Bearings No. 203 or another suitable size are fitted on the trunnions. For fastening the auger under the bearings, hubs are made from pipe sections. The blanks are bolted to the side shelves of the snow receiver body.
The snow bucket is made of sheet steel. To do this, take a strip with a width of 500 mm and bend it with an arc with a diameter of 300 mm. The sides can be sewn up with plywood or metal. A hole with a diameter of 160 mm is cut out in the center of the upper part of the snow receiver, to which a sleeve is attached to eject snow. The finished structure is installed on the frame. It is welded from metal corners.
Now it remains for the made snow blower to create a drive. That is, you need to make the auger rotate. There are several options for how to make the drive yourself:
The rotary auger snow blower can be equipped with a gearbox. It is installed instead of the blades, and the screw shaft is made of two halves.
Belt transmission is provided by two pulleys.One stands on the PTO shaft of the motor, and the other is mounted on the auger shaft.
The chain drive is arranged similarly to the belt drive, only sprockets from a moped or bicycle are used instead of pulleys.
If a self-made snow blower with your own hands is assembled as a nozzle for a walk-behind tractor, you can make a combined drive. In this case, the motor shaft is connected to the intermediate gear by a belt drive, and the torque from the gear shaft to the auger is transmitted by a chain drive. The principle of such a connection is shown in the photo.
Of all the options, the belt drive is considered the simplest, so it is most often installed by craftsmen on their snow blowers.
Now we will look at how a do-it-yourself snowblower is assembled with an engine from various equipment, and also consider the option of a nozzle for a walk-behind tractor.
An electric model of a snow blower is more suitable for a summer cottage where you have to remove snow rarely and in small quantities. Usually, instead of a screw, such machines are equipped with one rotor operating on the principle of a fan. After the snow is captured by the guide vanes, the fan blades mix it with air and under pressure are thrown out through the outlet sleeve.
The rotor design is simple. It can be made according to the drawing.
For the impeller, a metal disk is taken and blades from a steel strip are welded onto it. They can be from 2 to 5 pieces. The shaft is turned on a lathe from a steel bar. Two bearings are mounted on it together with the hubs.
For the snail body, a part of the metal barrel is cut from the bottom side with a height of 150 mm. A hole is cut on the side, where a branch pipe is welded for attaching the sleeve. A hole is drilled in the center of the bottom, the rotor shaft is inserted so that it is inside the volute. An impeller is placed on it. The rotor bearing hubs are bolted to the bottom of the barrel from the outside of the volute. Two rectangular sheets are welded from the front of the case. The vanes will grip the snow and the fan will suck in, grind and throw it out.
The finished rotor mechanism is placed on the frame, connected by a belt drive with an electric motor, and wheels from a wheelbarrow are used as a running gear.
Gasoline-powered snowblowers are usually made with auger mechanism or combined. The first option is much simpler. We discussed the manufacture of the screw above. For a combined snow blower, you need to additionally assemble a rotor such as was done for an electric model. Only the guide vanes are not welded to the rotor housing. It is connected to the back of the auger snow collector.
The engine will fit any air cooled engine. It can be two-stroke or four-stroke. The frame of a non-self-propelled car is placed on the skis. It will be easier for the operator to push the snow thrower over thick cover. If the power of the motor allows you to make a self-propelled machine, then you will need to fix the wheels to the frame and connect them with a drive to the PTO of the engine.
The simplest snow blower is a hitch on a walk-behind tractor. If there is a traction unit in the yard, then why create another machine with a stationary drive. As a hinge, it is necessary to make a screw mechanism with blades for ejecting snow. The body of the snow receiver is placed on the frame. The skis are attached from below. On the back of the frame, fasteners are welded, with the help of which the attachment will be coupled to the walk-behind tractor.
The drive is carried out by a belt drive. The rotation speed of the auger can be adjusted by selecting pulleys of different diameters. If this cannot be done, then an intermediate gearbox can be installed between the walk-behind tractor and the auger nozzle. It will reduce the rpm to the desired frequency.
The video shows the work of a homemade snow blower:
VIDEO
A homemade snow blower with its parameters practically does not differ from factory-made counterparts, and it will cost the owner several times cheaper.
If you need to replace the friction disc, and you prefer to make repairs yourself, use our replacement instructions and this repair will not pose any problems for you.
1. The snow blower must be in the maintenance position. See picture.
2. Remove the bottom cover (self-propelled drive housing) by unscrewing 4-6 (depending on the type and model of the snow blower) bolts.
4. Remove the right and left support flanges (covers that cover the bearings of the friction disc axle) from the frame. It is necessary to unscrew 2-3 (depending on the type and model of the snow blower) bolts and remove the flanges from the bearings.
5. By shifting the hexagonal axle to the left so that it would be possible to remove the friction disc from the axle.
6. For friction discs with the ability to replace the rubber ring, replace the rubber ring of the friction disc by unscrewing 4-6 bolts. See picture.
7. For friction discs with brazed rubber, it is necessary to unscrew the friction disc from the friction disc bearing fastener.
8. Next, we act in the reverse order. Note that when installing the friction disc, the bearing stops must engage in the shift rod guides. And the movement of the disc on the hexagonal shaft should be free.
9. Next, you need to adjust the clutch of the friction disc. How to do this, see our section: adjusting the clutch of the friction disc.
If you prefer to entrust the repair to professionals, then you can see all the information about the repair of a snow blower here.
Caring for your snow removal equipment is easy, because it is designed to withstand the most demanding tests. Malfunctions are usually local in nature and do not damage the unit. How to extend the life of a snow blower without overworking?
Snow blower Is a self-propelled or non-self-propelled unit, wheeled or tracked type, equipped with a working screw (augers). Snow blower malfunctions occur due to improper operation, disregard of the manufacturer's instructions and ignorance of the instructions. Instead of carefully reading the instructions and getting started, users first turn on the snow blower, break it down, and then frantically search the owner's manual for answers.
Gasoline models of snow blowers are arranged like walk-behind tractors, their basis is an internal combustion engine. It activates the working bodies of the cleaner and the wheels (tracks) of the machine, if it is self-propelled.
In the front of the snow blower there is a casing, it is made of metal or durable plastic. It closes the augers and provides the widest possible coverage of the cultivated area. There is almost nothing to break here.
The discharge chute determines the direction and distance of snow throwing, it is usually plastic or metal.
The auger is the main working body of the snow blower. It is a system of screws that crush the snow and throw it out of the way. A rotor is often installed at the same time as the auger. Usually, its role is played by a wheel with fitted blades, they rotate and throw snow out.
The rotor does not act as a redundant body, but is an integral part of the two-stage snow blower. In screw rotor machines, the auger rotates at a low speed, shoveling snow under itself, and the rotor, which rotates much faster, throws snow far to the side. The augers are more powerful, they obey even dense ice virgin soil.
The wheels or tracks of the snow blower have a “winter” tread pattern to improve flotation, eliminate slippage and increase traction.
There is no control panel in budget cleaners; in more expensive models, control levers are located on it.
As you can see, many elements can break down in snow removal equipment. Each manufacturer offers its own recommendations for proper operation.However, general snow blower care tips will work for any model.
Timely oil change - excellent prevention against any breakdown. Checking the oil level must be done before each run. The oil change is carried out after the first two hours of operation (during break-in) and after every 25 hours of operation.
Spark Plug Inspection held at least once a season. If there is a suspicion of a malfunction, inspection and replacement is carried out as needed.
The lubricant is applied at the joints and fasteners at least once a season. Eccentrics, bearings, gearbox are lubricated every 25-30 hours of operation. Friction wheels and V-belts are checked after approximately 45-50 hours of operation.
The augers are secured with dowels - soft metal shear bolts. Whenever you hit a stone or curb, dowels are cut off and the augers stop. Replacement keys should always be at your fingertips, as this is a necessary consumable that will have to be used very often. Some owners try to replace the keys with regular bolts, but this can lead to more serious damage if foreign objects enter.
Manufacturers do not just put “weak” bolts that take the first blow. In this way, they protect other parts of the machine, such as the rotor and the motor, from damage.
Drive belt - the second most popular element of a snow blower, which has to be changed more often than others. If you didn’t have a spare belt when you bought your snow blower, buy it right away from your nearest store. Remember that there are no universal belts, you only need to choose the ones that fit your model.
Buy only original spare parts that are suitable for your specific snow blower model. Replacing them with cheap counterparts can lead to serious damage.
Clutch system able to deliver a lot of unpleasant minutes in case of failure. The friction wheel presses the friction disc, which drives the wheels of the snow blower through a gear system. If you put too much weight on the wheels and press them to the ground, the wheel-disc pair will slip, which destroys the friction wheel.
The steel wheel begins to "bite" into the aluminum rim and grinds it down. Avoid frequent slippage and overdrive gear “from the start”.
If the snow blower engine does not start or runs intermittently, this is due to one or more reasons:
you are using old fuel or water got into it (fill with fresh fuel);
the ignition terminal is disconnected (connect it back);
the spark plug is out of order (replace the spark plug);
the throttle or air damper is not open (open them to the required width);
the fuel system is clogged (clean the fuel system).
The snow blower engine loses power during operation:
the vent hole of the gas tank cap is clogged (remove ice or snow from the cap);
the muffler is clogged (clean it);
the snow blower is throwing too much snow (slow down and reduce the working width).
The snow blower deliberately slows down or throws out snow worse:
the drive belt has come off the pulley or is worn out (reinstall the belt or replace it);
the clutches are damaged (contact the service center);
the discharge channel is clogged with snow (remove the remaining snow from the channel);
foreign objects have fallen into the pulley or impeller (remove excess).
Tips for the correct operation of the snow blower are given for a reason. They block potential threats to the insides of the unit. For example, after finishing work, let the snow blower run for a few minutes. Snow that gets inside will evaporate and will not settle on the metal or cause rust.
Correct operation includes timely contacting a service center. Improper replacement of even such simple elements as keys or belts can lead to damage to the auger, rotor or motor, respectively. Not confident in your abilities - contact the professionals.
Most of the breakdowns of snow blowers are standard, well known to the technicians of service centers and are easily repaired. But it is better not to go to extremes and carefully and accurately operate the "home excavator". And then he will always help you dig out of the deepest snow drifts.
The gearbox is one of the most important mechanisms in a snow blower. Its function is to receive torque from the motor and then transfer it to the working elements of the unit.
Below we will consider the design of the gearbox, the features of its dismantling and self-lubrication.
The mechanism is based on a snow blower gear gear, for the production of which soft metals are used or, in cheaper models of snow blowers, plastic. The use of metals that are softer in their structure in the manufacture of gears is explained by the peculiarity that in the event of an unforeseen jamming of the auger mechanism, the snow blower motor will not be subject to mechanical damage.
The auger mechanism of the snow blower itself is attached to the surface of the shaft using several shear bolts, which play the role of the primary protection of the snow blower engine. In the event of an urgent need for an emergency repair of the machine, the bolts are cut off, which makes it possible to protect the motor of the used snow blower.
The gear of the snow blower gearbox and all other parts are located inside the protective housing of the unit. In the case of household snow blowers, the gear housing is manufactured from a selected alloy of silicon and aluminum components. In this case, the body structure includes two parts, which are bolted to each other. Professional snow blower gearboxes are equipped with a one-piece cast iron housing.
All modern snowblowers are equipped with two types of gearboxes. These include:
serviceable gearboxes - these types of mechanisms make it possible to disassemble for preventive maintenance or repair. These gearboxes are distinguished by increased reliability and long service life. The elements of these mechanisms are made mainly of bronze, due to which their wear is significantly reduced;
maintenance-free gearboxes - these mechanisms do not need to be serviced and they cannot be repaired. In case of any breakdown of such a gearbox, it must be dismantled, and a new mechanism should be installed instead.
Mechanisms for snow blowers of the second type are included in the package of less expensive models, mainly of Chinese and Korean production. The terms of their operation under intensive load are, as a rule, 60–100 operating hours.
Dismantling and disassembly of the snow blower gearbox is required in cases where the owner of the machine needs to repair the mechanism or replace the lubricant in it.
The disassembly procedure is as follows:
First of all, set the snow blower in a stationary position;
Then unscrew the bolts and carefully remove the cover that protects the belts and the cable for the drive of the auger mechanism of the snow blower;
Unscrew the bolts located behind the "snail";
Carefully remove the auger belt from the gear pulley;
Remove the screws that secure the auger shaft;
Turn the "snail" until a characteristic click, and pull out the auger mechanism together with the impeller installed in it;
Remove the shear bolts and disassemble the shaft;
Next, disassemble the snow blower gearbox.To do this, firmly clamp one of the components of the shaft in a vise and unscrew the 6 bolts that secure both components of the gearbox housing. Then use a hammer to tap lightly on the body of the mechanism. At the end, the gear for the snow blower and other elements of the assembly are removed from the gearbox.
After completing all the above steps, you can repair and replace the faulty gearbox elements.
The correct lubricant must be selected before replacing the lubricant in the snowplow gearbox. The best option in practice is gear oil - due to its consistency, this grease quickly penetrates into all holes and grooves, and creates a strong protective film on the gear and other elements of the snow blower gearbox.
In no case should you use "Litol" and other thick compounds for lubrication. The worm gear, which in most cases is equipped with snow blowers, with such a lubricant will not be protected from increased wear, since the agent will spread for a long time through the holes inside the mechanism. After purchasing the product, replace the old lubricant in the snow blower gearbox.
The procedure is as follows:
First, get rid of the old grease in the fitting and on the assembly parts. To do this, it is best to place the elements of the mechanism in a container with gasoline and leave it in it for 1 hour;
After that, unscrew the fitting and, using a syringe, add the required amount of lubricant into it;
Then screw the union back into place and reassemble the gearbox of the used snow blower in the reverse order.
VIDEO In most cases, snow blower manufacturing companies are sure to warn their customers about the lack of the right amount of lubricant inside the gearbox. In this regard, it is necessary to pour oil into the mechanism after the first 10 hours of using the snow blower.
A gearbox is a unit that quickly fails, especially when it comes to an unattended mechanism for a snow blower. As a result, some snow blower owners prefer to make homemade gearboxes. Subject to compliance with all assembly rules, as a result, you can get a mechanism that, in terms of reliability, will practically be in no way inferior to factory assemblies.
For the manufacture of a unit for a snowplow, you will need a diagram that will indicate the dimensions and installation methods of the mechanism parts.
After studying the drawings, you can proceed directly to the assembly. The procedure is as follows:
First, a gear wheel for a snow blower is taken, and mounted together with bearings on the machine shaft. The gear must be made of bronze and have at least 20 teeth;
Next, the first part of the body is installed on the shaft. Bearings and gear at this time should be located inside the housing;
Then the parts must be closed with oil seals. Their diameter should be 1 cm larger than the diameter of the gear. After that, the second part of the gear housing is installed on top;
In the last step, both parts of the body should be fastened with shear bolts.
Video (click to play).
VIDEO In the manufacture of a gearbox for a snow blower, you will have to spend a certain amount of money, but the cost of a home-made mechanism will still be several times lower than a store counterpart.