DIY turntable repair

In the distant 90th year, during the liquidation of one very old household store, a large amount of stale goods was pulled out of the back rooms and basement. Arranged a sale. The "Impulse-201 stereo" turntable attracted attention with its bright red body. The price of this lot was discouraging - 25 rubles - a fifth of what the manufacturer estimated it. The contents of the body were a direct-drive EPU, with a microlift and a hitchhiking, with a device for fine-tuning the rotation of the records being played (a stroboscope was used) and with a shearing force compensator (anti-skating).

How can you pass by such goodness? There was also a teaspoon of ointment. An honest saleswoman (they disappeared in the process of business evolution) said that this device has an unrecoverable defect, which she does not know specifically. This information did not bother - I bought it, brought it home. At first I did not find any defect, everything was spinning, the sound was reproduced, however, only on headphones, because it was not a turntable (according to the correct electrophone), but only a "turntable" - EPU (electro-playing device). After some time, it migrated to storage in the garage, because indeed one channel played much quieter than the other, which became immediately noticeable after connecting it to an external sound amplifier.

• Power supply from an alternating current with a frequency of 50 Hz and a voltage of 220 V ± 10%.
• The rotation frequencies of the records are 33 1/3 and 45 rpm.
• Rotation speed adjustment range ± 2. 5%.
• Knock coefficient is not worse than 0.15%.
• The range of reproducible frequencies is 31.5. 16000 Hz.
• The unevenness of the frequency response is no more than 10 dB.
• Frequency response mismatch of the pickup is no more than 2 dB.
• The pick-up clamping force is not more than 20 mN.
• The relative noise level with a weighting filter is not worse than -55 dB.
• The level of the electric background is -53 dB.
• Separation between stereo channels at frequencies:
• 315 Hz - not less than 15 dB
• 1000 Hz - not less than 20 dB
• 5000 Hz - not less than 15 dB
• 10,000 Hz - not less than 6 dB.
• Power consumption no more than 15 W.
• Overall dimensions 375х300х120 mm.
• Weight without packaging 5 kg.

But a month ago, I was "loaded" with a "Sanyo TP6100" turntable, I intended to operate it, of course, after completing it with a correcting amplifier and appropriate improvements. So naturally, an appropriate sparring was needed initially - a partner and the "Impulse" was brought out into the Light of God. Substantively, I did not look for the reason for the different volume of the channels; I started with the power supply. Measurement of current consumption showed that under standard load, the voltage sags to 9 volts, and should be 10 - 12 V.

It is clear that 12V is better. At the same time, the step-down transformer was heated and the KT801B transistor was very hot. Which is natural, because the manufacturer himself wrote in the technical specifications about the permissible power of 15 W, and installed a 10 W transformer. The KT801B transistor can have a static current transfer coefficient from 30 to 150, in fact it turned out to be 50, which is clearly not enough in this circuit solution. I put the transformer at 15 W (which it was), I did not find the transistor better - I installed a passive radiator on my own, without checking the old ones, installed other, tested electrolytes, instead of 2000 μF x 25 V - 4700 μF x 25 V, others at par. I loaded the updated power supply unit - now, even with a current output of 500 mA, the voltage did not fall below 10 V.And the real need for current at the EPU is as follows: control board - 40 mA, electric motor - 150 mA, correcting amplifier - 80 mA. Total 270 mA, I admit a maximum of 300. The transformer no longer heats up, but the transistor continues, although to a lesser extent.

The equalizing amplifier is enclosed in a shielding metal case. For ESP class 2, this, as well as many other things, is already chic. Were replaced not only electrolytic, but also ceramic "flag" capacitors. Sockets are installed under the K553UD1A microcircuits. It will be curious to listen and it is possible to detect a difference in the sound when changing them. There are a dozen of them in stock.

On the control board, in addition to replacing electrolytes and "flags", a variable resistor was repaired. Instead of the specified nominal value of 33 kOhm, in fact, it turned out to be 24 kOhm (that is, the adjustment of the rotation speed was difficult). I opened the lid and with a file reduced the width of the resistive layer, as a result of which the resistance increased to the required value, while I note that in the process of adjusting the speed of rotation of the disk, it was found that a resistor for a higher resistance, for example, 47 kOhm, would be appropriate here.

The EPU was assembled and turned on - it played, but one channel was still quieter than the other. Then I got into the tonearm and there, at last, the "weak link" was discovered - single pin connections, which were bad even for the 2nd class. Replacing the GZM-105 pickup with the GZM-005, I simply took and soldered these connections, the latter may be the way it should be done, even at the factory. The sound of both channels has become not only equally strong, but also subjectively better quality.

For possible experiments, I placed an “exit” in the corner in front of the correcting amplifier. Now it is possible to remove the sound signal directly from the sound head, for example, try some other corrector. Also send a sound signal from another turntable - compare the work of the correcting amplifiers. So, having connected the Sanyo TP6100 turntable to this corrector, which does not have a correcting amplifier in its case, I found that it does not function, or rather does not reproduce sound. Having built something similar to a microscope, I discovered the absence of the diamond tip of the needle in the stylus of the cartridge, there was only one pin in place, on which the diamond should be located and which was originally mistaken for it. For visual viewing, at least 10x magnification is required here.

Upon completion of all actions, I have this internal view of the EPU. And I was not too lazy to make an additional headphone output on the front panel of the case - a tremendous convenience. Having read about the dependence of sound even on the brand of electrolytic capacitors, in an incomprehensible way, I caught a less pleasant sound after replacing the electrolytes in the part of the power supply unit giving a bipolar voltage for the amplifier-corrector and replaced them with the previous ones, which turned out to be in good order in all respects.

Finally, according to the recommendations of advanced music lovers, I set the turntable strictly horizontally in terms of level. There are several licensed records of the company "Melodia" available, for this EPU it is not even bad, the release of the past years, somehow I will definitely move away from the everyday fuss and plunge headlong into the world of analog sound.

At the present time, for a radio amateur, a little more than a beginner, this EPU can easily become a kind of radio designer who will give the first understanding and the opportunity to get acquainted with analog sound. Tuning deeper than the one discussed in this article is desirable. Then it will be appropriate for the EPU to collect something on the radio tubes. Then change the body, for example, make it from a solid "piece" of wood. And then no one would even think of the "second-class" origin of your Hi-Fi equipment.

Recently I met an interesting person of 67 years old.The man is very fond of vinyl music and he has many different turntables - from Arctura-006 to Fine ARTS TD-903 from Grundig. However, all the players work poorly, or do not work at all, because they are only slightly younger than this person himself. And he carries me all these turntables for repair and hopes that I will give them a second youth. I try as best I can, because he is a good person, and I myself am interested. In the course of the repair, of course, you have to climb a lot on "these" Internet sites and read, at times, surprising and unexpected things.

So, for example, on one forum there is a very serious discussion about the benefits of making a player's disc heavier, one that is iron and on which the disc itself is directly placed. Type, to reduce the instability of the rotational speed. One expert writes about his experiments like this:

“I put on the disc of my turntable, for weighting, a disc from a prefab dumbbell, weighing 1 kg. The disc was spinning as if nothing had happened, nothing had changed in the world. Then I put another such disc and the player could not start itself. But I helped him with my hands and he started spinning again. I don’t know how this affected the sound quality, because the height of all these discs became such that the tonearm could not be lifted onto the record! Then I decided to just continue the experiment and put in another 3 kg disc (the kilogram ones were all over). I unrolled it again with my hands and it all spun and spun for some time quite well and, I think, very stable because of the large inertial moment. But then there was a smell of burning and smoke came from the player, damn it - the engine burned out. Based on the experiment done, we can conclude that, probably, the maximum weight of the disc is somewhere between two and five kilograms. I will buy a new engine, who has it? I want to determine the maximum possible weight of the disc with a higher accuracy. "

So, my friend brought in a 1985 Arctur-006 turntable for repair, whose disk suddenly stopped spinning. He said he removed the disk for troubleshooting and. did not find either the engine itself, not even any belt-rollers! The man was very puzzled by this state of affairs, because he lived for 67 years in this world and saw everything, but this is what. I asked if the engine could have burned to the ground, that is, completely without a trace? I expressed my doubts about this and we began to understand. They removed the disc and, indeed, did not find even traces of any engine.

This is understandable to me, because here is just an original low-speed engine, where the rotor is the player's disc itself with a glued-on magnetic tape. However, before explaining this fact to a person, I decided to draw his attention first to a large number of dead cockroaches in the voids of the body under the disk. I said that this is a unique turntable with an experimental biological engine, very economical and not harmful to the environment. And the driving force is just cockroaches, specially trained in the biological laboratory of the Polish company "Unitra". When the power is turned on, a current discharge is supplied to the cockroaches, they get angry, swear and start spinning the disk out of frustration - but where can they go ?! But nothing lasts forever under the moon, not even cockroaches. So they all died, and now there was no one to turn the disk.

Then, of course, he took pity on the man, stopped telling tales and repaired the player for him. Several years have passed since then, and "Arctur-006" is still playing. But I presume in advance his next quick death and train a new batch of cockroaches for now :-))

Even in this Arcturus, my imagination was struck by a preamplifier-equalizer, which looked like this:

The board seems to be clearly small for such capacitors. Although I may not be an ardent audiophile at all and do not understand what a beautiful, transparent, detailed sound is given by precisely such capacitors.Some will say that even such conductors are perhaps too small for a particularly high-quality and natural sound! Moreover, if you still load the disc with "pancakes" from the bar by 25 kilograms? Surely, you get a truly divine sound! But how many specially trained cockroaches are needed? The author is Andrey Baryshev.

We really need a master to repair Electronics 017C. I phoned the services - they call them a relic and do not take it. The problem is that when turned on, everything works, but there is no sound. Help, good people! The stepmother does not have a weak record library and to lose the wiretapping of her rarities is a great grief for her: oh (

And you are not on services.
Find a newspaper with classified ads and call them.
If you also have a passport with a diagram for this product, then it's very good. Imho, any sane repairer will fix your device without any problems, this technique is very repairable.

Thanks! We will also try this option. Simply, suddenly someone has a reliable and sensible dock - they would be very happy: o)

It seems to me that buying a working copy of this Electronics will now cost less than repairing it.

If everything is spinning, but there is no sound, then the problem is in the contacts or electronics. The parts cost a penny, so the cost of the repair is almost entirely the cost of the work.
And domestic audio equipment of grades 0 and 1 really cost cheap a few years ago, but now the prices for it have risen sharply, people realized that it is much better in quality than Chinese soap dishes.

is wrote:
in terms of quality, it is much better than Chinese soap dishes.

I'll clarify: the sound quality. Inside there is a traditional sovdepovsky kick-ass

It would be strange to compare sound equipment in any other parameter.

The only thing that really needs to be done with the old (working) equipment for full recovery is to change all electrolytic capacitors, they dry out over time and lose their capacity.

IS Wow! And I thought it was a sinful thing that the turntable (in the sound path) contains only the head, the wiring going through the tonearm, and an external connector for the phono stage. Otherwise, it is no longer a turntable, but a turntable.

darkstar IMHO, if there is no sound, I would first of all blame the pickup head.
And the diagram and description is here
” >
” >

It's a pity you're far away. I would fix it. The device is not bad, it is worth repairing.

Yes, it may well be in the head.

There really is no electronics in the turntable. But the specified EP-017 is not a turntable, but a turntable, and there is a lot of stuff there.

Thanks to everyone who responded, but things, as they say, are still there: oh (
I began to think about a replacement. Asked a search for "vinyl players" - that's where the horror is! I don’t understand anything! Some kind of phono correctors, preamplifiers, tonearms. What to take? How to dock with the native El-ki amplifier (it seems to be in order)? Guard! By the way, prices are also sentinel: o (

There the head needs to be changed. The question is what to change it to?
Domestic heads are still on sale in clothing markets, but their condition is close to bad.
The turntable itself is in good condition, I think if you can buy an imported head for 40 dollars, it will still serve.
You can buy a new branded head, but which one and where? There are no budget solutions commensurate with the price of a turntable, everything is very expensive hi-end class in stores.

tvmaster, one of these is suitable, so that without alterations and improvements:
”>? So that it stuck like a native?

this will fit Ortofon OM5e

tvmaster, and OM10? Just in the internet on some forum I found information that someone had put it on El-ku 017 and the owner is quite happy. The truth did not understand from the context - whether there was some kind of alteration-finishing work or the village as a native.

This 017 Electronics does not have a preamplifier at all, the signal from the head goes directly to the output cord. Perhaps there is an electronic key in it that closes the head to suppress interference, but I'm not sure.
So the cord, head or key (if any) may be faulty. This is provided that the player is connected exactly to the preamplifier jack on the power amplifier, check.
I remember this unit, produced in our city at a military plant with all that it implies.

So they are there next to two on top of OM5 = $ 30 below OM10 = $ 37.
These are two heads of the same class, the difference in sound (on your technique) is imperceptible, take which is cheaper (of course I will put it later).
No alterations are needed, put, connect and that's it, it will sit like a native, even better.

tvmaster, convinced, take boom!

tvmaster wrote:
There the head needs to be changed

Why the head? Irene will buy a new one, but the old one may be alive. There is no sound - maybe a dozen reasons. It's like if a person has a temperature of 38 - can you immediately make a diagnosis?

Andrew_030 wrote:
In this Electronics 017 there is no preamplifier at all, the signal from the head goes directly to the output cord

Are you sure about this? If the head is piezo, then the PU may not be needed, but they were not put on the highest class of piezo, only electromagnetic, and for them, in any case, a PU is needed and the signal from them does not go directly to the connectors. There EMF is millivolts.

This 017 Electronics does not have a preamplifier at all, the signal from the head goes directly to the output cord. Perhaps there is an electronic key in it that closes the head to suppress interference, but I'm not sure.

Have you seen the diagram from the links above? There is no sound at the OUTPUT. And before the exit there is a lot of what is worth. So, before changing the head, you need to put the record on playback and poke the oscilloscope along the cascades, it will immediately become clear where the signal is lost.

is wrote:
Have you seen the diagram from the links above? There is no sound at the OUTPUT. And before the exit there is a lot of what is worth.

Have you watched CAREFULLY?

Where did you find the cascades there?

Before reaching the Xp3 connector, there are only a capacitor per channel and relay contacts that close the output in an inoperative position

... And that's all.
Is this a lot?

Everything else is drive and control.

Yes, I looked more closely, there really is no amplifier in the turntable itself. But this essentially does not change the matter. The speakers are not plugged directly into the turntable connector.
We have the following. The plate is spinning, the needle goes along the plate. There is no sound in the speakers. The problem can be anywhere from the head to the output stages of a power amplifier. Therefore, the very first thing to do is to diagnose. Those. connect the entire path: turntable, pre-amplifier, power amplifier. And then probing the cascades, where the signal reaches and where it is lost. In the presence of equipment (oscilloscope), work for 30 minutes, most of which will be spent on assembling and disassembling the equipment.
Trying to change parts without preliminary diagnostics is like first drilling a wall from one side, and then, making sure that the drill is not long enough, randomly start drilling from the back side, trying to get into the hole made at the beginning.

is wrote:
But this essentially does not change the matter.

is wrote:
Therefore, the very first thing to do is to diagnose.

is wrote:
Those. connect the entire path: turntable, pre-amplifier, power amplifier. And then feel the cascades

Maybe at first, all the same, without disassembling the technique, give a signal (yes, at least lean your finger against the entrance

) instead of a turntable to the amplifier input (after lowering the volume)?

What kind of oscilloscope are you talking about? The girl can hardly pronounce this word

And if someone else will fix it (who has an oscilloscope) he doesn’t need all your written nafig, maybe he knows what’s what.

is wrote:
Try to change parts without preliminary diagnostics

And here "for" with both hands - why buy a head just like that?

Irene wrote:
How to dock with the native El-ki amplifier (it seems to be in order)?

Check the amplifier - turn off the plug from the turntable and bring your finger to the input (lower volume - take care) ears

Then connect the wire and your finger to the wire.

In general, I am telling you. I watched this turntable, the signal from the head is coming, but weak, at the maximum it plays very quietly.
The head is old, domestic type MM (with a permanent magnet, who does not know). Needle damper ring made of rubber-like material dried out or softened so much that it stopped holding the needle with a magnet in the plastic case of the replaceable needle holder and the head almost scraped the bottom plane along the plate. The needle itself, up to a heap, did not hold, fell through (fixed the needle holder tube from the sides), cleaned the needle from dirt, it was black. Found the difference in the resistances of the head windings. In general, a replacement head.
The path is built as follows, the turntable is connected to the UM “Electronics” zero fifteenth, it is used in the corrector mode, from the line output of the amplifier the sound goes to the Samsung CD music center.
I consider it madness to carry an oscilloscope with me, although we had such eagles, rode on orders with instruments. I checked the tract with an ordinary tester and a finger,

everything else works.
He offered to buy a new import head for 30 dollars (already found Ortofon OM5e in Moscow) and calm down on this or a new player, something budget automatic for 5 thousand dollars.

Message from is
But this essentially does not change the matter.

1. There is one block, which contains a turntable and an amplifier. There is no signal at the output of the amplifier.
2. There are two blocks, one is a turntable, the other is an amplifier. There is no signal at the output of the amplifier.
   Where is the difference in terms of diagnosis and repair? Is it in the second case a little easier to check the amplifier, since you don't have to climb inside to supply something to the input.

Maybe at first, all the same, without disassembling the technique, give a signal (yes, at least lean your finger against the entrance

) instead of a turntable to the amplifier input (after lowering the volume)?

Will go for express check.
Another option, more serious. Modern testers often have a fixed frequency output. We make a divider from two resistors, getting the required amplitude, and let it go to the input. The method is good in that it allows not only to check whether it works or not, but also to see the signal flow, i.e. identify the problem.

Needle damper ring made of rubber-like material dried out or softened so much that it stopped holding the needle with a magnet in the plastic case of the replaceable needle holder and the head almost scraped the bottom plane along the plate.

The piezo heads also have an elastic band; over time, it decomposes so much that it turns into a kind of sticky jelly that flows down onto a needle.

I consider it madness to carry an oscilloscope with me, although we had such eagles, rode on orders with instruments.

It depends on what kind of oscilloscope. The standard laboratory C1-65A is definitely insane (although somehow, to set up the base station of the radio security system, I had to drag the high-frequency C1-97 to the point. A healthy iron coffin, it is convenient to carry together

). "Camping", type C1-112A - no special problems. And now there are pocket ones, about the size of a multimeter, with a graphic LCD screen. They won't replace a full-fledged oscilloscope, but it's still much better than just poking around with a tester.

A classic solution in the world of music media, a vinyl record played on an old turntable is able to fill a room with a special atmosphere. Despite novelties and modern developments, vinyl does not lose its popularity among connoisseurs of good music. However, listening to music on such media hides in itself some difficulties associated with the repair of such equipment.

Despite the special appeal of this method of listening to musical compositions, the music lover runs the risk of encountering a breakdown of the playback device. Given the fact that turntables are no longer available, the task of finding competent repairmen becomes much more difficult.

Most often, when handing over vinyl players for repair, service visitors complain that:
- the plate rotates unstably or stands still;
- restoration of the case is required;
- the wires in the pickup head are torn;
- there is no tonearm balance;
- the video has become unusable;
- the power supply unit is out of order;
- the equalizer preamplifier has some problems.

Vinyl is a fairly durable material in which both the case and the entire internal mechanism of the product can be serviced. Repair of such a turntable should be done by professionals, because the accuracy of the device tuning is very important for good sound. MosPlazma equipment repair service offers high-quality repair repair of turntables. The center's specialists will diagnose the condition of the device and eliminate all problems, including the replacement of necessary parts. By contacting this company, the client will be able to restore a device that has long been discontinued.

In addition to repairing and replacing non-working parts, the company offers customers the opportunity to clean the music device as well as lubricate all parts. The professional work of the masters will help to adjust all the parameters as a preventive measure. This will significantly improve the sound quality of the musical material.

A separate advantage of cooperation with this center is that its specialists, after carrying out the procedure for repairing or replacing parts, provide a guarantee for the work performed.

By calling (495) 212-23-59, (916) 096-49-54, (903) 516-17-74, you can make an appointment with real professionals who will make your old turntable look and sound like new. The company also repairs computer equipment of any complexity.

Gramophones, phonographs, turntables - whatever you call them - they all have parts that need to be replaced over time. In general, in a turntable, depending on the type, there are only 2 or 3 parts that should be paid attention to. These are the details

• A gramophone needle is a needle that runs along the tracks of a record, usually made of industrial sapphire (sometimes diamond) or, in the case of old mechanical apparatus, made of bamboo or steel.
• a pickup that converts mechanical vibrations into electrical signals.
• drive, which is usually a rubberized roller or belt belt.

Most often, the needle is replaced, since the friction between the needle and the record created during playback increases the wear. A worn or damaged stylus produces poor quality sound because it cannot fit snugly in the track on the record. Such a needle can damage the record.

Older 78 rpm records use larger needles than vinyl singles (45 rpm) or long plays (33 rpm). Some cartridges have two needles, one on each side, and the cartridge must be turned over. There are dual-stylus pickups on a removable holder, but these are relatively rare, although replacing them is usually easier because they simply pop out.

Keep your phonograph needle clean. To do this, be careful to remove any debris and dust with something like the soft end of a brush commonly used by artists. Avoid applying strong pressure to the needle and do not use solvents, as the material of the needle can be damaged over time and this will result in the needle not sticking to the holder.

Use a magnifying glass or a simple microscope from time to time to get a good look at the gramophone needle. Sometimes it is enough to just lift the cartridge up, but on some turntables the pickup handle has limited travel - be careful not to pull too hard!

The needle should be in the shape of a cone, but the tip should be rounded, without sharp surfaces or cracks.

Many people who remember and love even those distant times when the technological development of mankind was not at this level - when there were soda machines on the streets, and they listened to music on vinyl records. And many would not refuse to return at least for a while, or fill their modern life with elements of the Soviet era. After all, the feeling of pleasure from the quiet, subtle crackle of a diamond needle on the plate is difficult to replace.

Although many argue that the time of vinyl records is over, they are clearly wrong. Indeed, nowadays there are a huge number of music lovers who do not use discs, flash drives, or mp3s. Thanks to them, such a human discovery as vinyl records, and with them the turntables, are immortal.

In addition, many record companies are fueling the life of vinyl, more and more often releasing their first albums on such media. In addition, on some unique vinyl records there are rare records, which have no analogues on, say, disks.

But nothing lasts, so the day may come when your unique turntable may stop working. Breakdowns can be different, from the most elementary ones, to those due to which it will no longer be possible to restore your device.

In any case, an experienced master of our company can handle the task of repairing your player, who, thanks to his professional knowledge, will help you return your favorite device to a working condition.

Our technicians repair turntables of various models and manufacturers: Sony, Technics, Panasonic, Scott, Pioneer, Thomson, Vega, Record.

• Repair of vintage turntables
• Repair of LP-players of Hi-Fi and Hi-End class
• Repair of professional DJ turntables
• Easy repair - no replacement parts / li>
• Difficult repair - with replacement of parts
• Prevention - cleaning, lubrication, fine adjustment of the turntable

The repair of audio equipment for our workshop is a priority. Vinyl or LP-players are, perhaps, the oldest signal sources of the Hi-Fi and Hi-End era, and more than one generation of music lovers has grown up on music from vinyl discs. Turntables are produced by many companies, among which there are the giants of the world industry, and small specialized companies.

In common parlance, music disc players are called turntables. The turntable is one of the basic tools for disc jockeys. Most often, the turntable is used for scratching - rotating the disc with your hands in time to the rhythm.

Unlike other audio devices, vinyl record players are very “capricious” to make and repair mechanically. The main components of the player - the disc drive and the tonearm with a pickup - are designed and manufactured in such a way as to ensure stable reading of the sound track of the gramophone record. While in a CD player the instability of the servo mechanism can be compensated for using electronic error correction systems, in a vinyl record player, read errors will inevitably lead to artifacts - distortions, tonal balance skews, clicks or detonation of sound. Therefore, all the mechanical components of the turntable are made with the highest possible precision, and during operation, the turntable must be periodically adjusted and tuned.

There are several basic designs of turntables for vinyl - direct, roller or belt drive, with different types of tonearms and chassis ("table"). All of them in their own way affect certain nuances in the sound of the disc, although the basic requirements for the quality of reproduction always remain unchanged.

• 1. It is necessary to check the power supply. If there is an indicator, then it should indicate voltage
• 2.The electric motor should rotate when the power is on
• 3. The drive roller must rotate freely.
• 4. The tonearm (pickup) should move effortlessly. If you touch the tonearm needle, a rustling sound should be heard from the speakers.
• 5. The switch for speeds of rotation 78, 45 and 33 rpm should work without much effort

The problem can be anywhere from the head to the output stages of a power amplifier. Therefore, the very first thing to do is to diagnose. Those. connect the entire path: turntable, pre-amplifier, power amplifier. And then probing the cascades, where the signal reaches and where it is lost.

• The player does not turn on
• Disc does not spin
• No sound
• Distorted sound - the sound starts to "float"
• Poor sound quality (dropout and noise)
• Lack of adjustment
• Vibration

The question arises: can vinyl stay on the market and walk with high technology head to toe? The introduction of high technologies into the technical process is possible - master disks, machines, varnishes, etc. A revival has taken place. Vinyl sound is entering a new stage of development. Vinyl is not going to leave. Vinyl will live.

What breaks in turntables?

The main causes of breakdown are:

• Failure or wear of the cartridge (phono cartridge),
• Unbalanced tonearm,
• Unstable rotational speed of the disc,
• Extraneous sounds or improper operation of the gimbal or the disc itself,
• Incorrect operation of the automation,
• Roller or belt wear
• Electronics problems (contacts, wiring, engine),
• Damage to the body of the player or cover

A turntable is essentially a composite device, all parts of which must work correctly on their own and they must interact harmoniously with each other. Like no other audio component, this device requires systematic maintenance! Our specialists are able to repair and configure any player and its parts, correctly replace any component, provide service, advise how best to maintain and use it in the future.

Until now, the vinyl record is the highest quality household sound format. More than 100 years have passed since its inception. The record changed, in the early 80s of the last century they even tried to "write off it for scrap", but at the beginning of the 21st century any decent group comes out on vinyl and this is considered a high level indicator.

Turntables are still the backbone of the Hi-Fi / Hi-End system. Why, you ask, is the analog medium in such demand, despite the availability of more convenient digital formats?

The answer lies in the difference between the principle of recording "analog" and "digital" sound. In the first case, the acoustic wave is converted into an electrical signal, which is recorded with the help of special devices on a metal disk from which the plates are pressed. Subsequently, the turntable head, by means of the cartridge needle, reads the grooves of the plate, the cartridge itself converts the vibrations into an electrical signal, then into an acoustic wave. In the second case, the following happens: the acoustic wave is converted into an electrical signal, it is transformed into a set of zeroes and ones using an analog-to-digital converter (ADC), then the "set" is recorded using special devices on a metal disk from which aluminum CDs are pressed ... Subsequently, the laser head reads the "set", the digital-to-analog converter (DAC) transforms it into an electrical signal, then into an acoustic wave.

Thus, we have additional links: ADC and DAC. Each procedure, to put it simply, is a substitution of a continuous “analog” function for a piecewise “digital” one (and vice versa). Every time something is lost. At first glance - not much, but on the whole so much that the difference is significant.Based on the above (albeit intentionally simplified) reasoning, "analog" sound is inherently correct for perception, since it is not transformed, but exists in nature and is perceived by our hearing organs and only it.

And now the only arguments of opponents of vinyl are: inconvenience of storage, use; high cost; (allegedly) fragility; (allegedly) crackling and noise; (allegedly) inaccessibility. Yes, the record is rather big, although it is a pleasure to use it, yes, it is relatively expensive, although if you buy vinyl wisely, it is available to most. Just forget all the arguments with the word "(supposedly)", it is not, again, if you have a head.

What do you get by joining the vinyl record? First of all, the fidelity of the sound. Here it would be possible to put an end to it, since this is the goal. However, let us add that by entering the elite club of record holders, you will: have a collection of real things that will rise in price over the years; have positive feelings from the process of communicating with vinyl; to differ from the gray mass of digital shit-eaters who listen to files on various gadgets, and do not understand what they are doing.

According to the principle of operation, vinyl players are divided into: roller, belt-driven, direct-drive. In our opinion, the most musical of them are roller tables, which are the oldest and most correct (Garrard, Rek-O-Kut, Lenco, Braun, EMT). Belt drive is the most versatile and uncritical to musical genres, as well as to vinyl (Linn, SME, Roksan, Sony, Dual, Luxman). Direct-drive turntables were produced mainly by Japanese manufacturers, they are distinguished by their reliability, accuracy and unpretentiousness (Technics, Denon, Kenwood, Pioneer, Revox).

1) Table or so-called skirting board. This is the very basis of the "turntable". It includes the body itself, supports, suspension, motor and disc. Sometimes the motor is carried out of the housing.

2) Tonearm. It is a "hand" that attaches to the tabletop on one side and has a shell / cartridge on the other. Tonearms differ in the type of suspension (knife supports, single support, bearing, spring); in length (9, 10, 12 and more inches); in shape (straight, S-shaped, J-shaped); by mounting the shell / cartridge (classic SME-bayonet, P-mount, specific mount); according to the principle (classical, tangential).

3) The cartridge (phono cartridge) consists of the body itself and the insert. Heads differ in type (MM, MC, capacitive, piezo).

Often, in serious installations, all three components are selected separately, often they can be from different manufacturers. Notable tables: Transrotor, Clearaudio, Kuzma, Thorens, Micro Seiki. Notable tonearms: SME, Ortofon, Gray Research, Dynavector, SAEC, Grace. Notable cartridges: Ortofon, Van den Hul, Benz Micro, Lyra, Denon, Audio-Technica, Shure.

Repair of any turntables of vinyl records - vintage, Soviet and DJ turntables. Diagnostics for free

A full range of services for the prevention, repair and selection of spare parts for vinyl players. Repair of any turntables - vintage, Soviet, as well as DJ turntables.

• simple repair of turntables - without replacing parts and elements;
• complex repair - repair with replacement of parts and elements of players;
• restoration - restoration of equipment to its original state after unqualified repair, mechanical damage, corrosion;
• prevention - cleaning, lubrication, simple adjustment of the apparatus;
• examination - full diagnostics (if necessary - run), quality control, drawing up a technical opinion.