DIY mouse wire repair

Computer mouse - probably everyone knows what it is. This is a manipulator or coordinate input device for controlling the cursor and giving various commands to the computer. Over time, this device has various malfunctions: damage to the stranded wire, the sensor often jams, the mouse wheel (scroll) is scrolled, the mouse buttons do not work, etc.

Let's look at the DIY repair of the most popular computer manipulator - a mouse!

The mouse is technically a fairly simple device, so it can be easily repaired by hand. If you know how to handle a soldering iron at least a little, then this will allow you to fix almost any broken mouse. However, even if you are not friends with a soldering iron, you can fix some typical damage to the mouse with a minimal set of tools:

Now there are several types of computer mice, which differ in the principle of operation (roller, optical or laser), the number of buttons (3 or more), and the type of connection (PS / 2, USB or wireless (with a USB adapter)). However, the most common are optical ones with a USB or PS / 2 connection.

Such mice are relatively inexpensive (not much more expensive than roller mice, but much cheaper than laser ones) and at the same time have a sufficiently high accuracy, which will be enough for most users.

We usually disassemble the mouse using a small Phillips screwdriver. To do this, turn the mouse upside down, find and unscrew one or more screws that hold it together. If the screws are not visible, then they, most often, are hidden under stickers or stand-legs:

Usually the screws only hold the back of the mouse. The front part (where the buttons are), most often, is fixed by means of special grooves. To remove the top cover from these grooves, you need to lift it slightly by the freed back part and slowly pull it towards you. You can still press a little more on it from the front, but the main thing is not very hard, otherwise you will break! The grooves on the top cover of the mouse and the pins that held them in place:

When you remove the top cover, you will find a small PCB underneath, which is usually only fixed on small plastic pins (although it could be screwed to the case). Wires (if the mouse is wired), buttons, a scroll mechanism, as well as a complex of a backlight LED and a sensitive optical sensor will be soldered to this board:

To completely disassemble the mouse, we need to pull the printed circuit board out of it and disconnect the scroll wheel (it can be easily pulled out of the encoder slots).

Most often, when connected to a computer, the mouse either does not work at all, or the cursor movement twitches or disappears, if one of the wires is frayed or cut off somewhere (if, of course, the mouse is wired).

A typical optical mouse usually has 4 to 6 wires of different colors. The colors and number of wires depend on the specific manufacturer, however, there is also a standard:

Color scheme for wiring mouse wires

Nutrition - red (other options: golden, orange, blue, white).

Receiving data - white (other options: blue, orange, yellow, green).

Data transfer - green (other options: golden blue, yellow, red, blue).

Land - black (other options: golden green, green, white, blue).

You can unambiguously judge the correct wiring by looking at the letter marking of the wires in the place where they are soldered to the printed circuit board (unless, of course, they are torn off the board). Breakage and chafing of wires most often happens in places where the wire is bent at the exit from the mouse case. You can indirectly check the presence of a break by pulling out the wire and trying to bend it in questionable places (it will be easier to bend at the break). However, in order to judge for sure, you will have to remove the insulation by carefully cutting it with a blade.

Having found the place where the wiring is interrupted, you need to restore their integrity by soldering or twisting. I personally prefer twisting 🙂 I will give a photo of the finished twist, how it should look:

After splicing the wires, insulate them from each other with electrical tape or tape. You can try. In order not to burn the port, you need to connect or disconnect the mouse when the computer is turned off! To eliminate all doubts with a break, try ringing all the contacts of the USB (or PS / 2) plug with a multimeter. After the repair, the mouse should work.

Often there is also a situation when we cannot accurately hover the cursor at a certain point. It constantly shivers and moves by itself. This situation clearly indicates clogging of the optical group of the mouse. The blockage is most often external. Dust or hair gets into the compartment where the light from the diode reflects off the table.

To get rid of such a blockage, you don't even need to disassemble the mouse. It is enough to turn it over and blow it out. As a last resort, use a small brush to remove stuck-on debris.

If, after such manipulations, the mouse cursor trembles, then, most likely, either the sensor is clogged inside, or is completely out of order.

In any case, you can try to disassemble the mouse and clean the sensor with a toothpick with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol wrapped around it:

Optical sensor of a computer mouse

Before cleaning the sensor with a cotton swab, you can also try blowing it out to blow out fine dust that may adhere after it gets wet. After that, gently, without pressing, insert the toothpick with rotational movements into the hole of the sensor. After making a couple of turns and not stopping to rotate, we take out the toothpick, wait for the alcohol to dry and try to connect the mouse.

If, after all attempts to clean, the sensor does not work normally, then if you have another mouse, a soldering iron and straight hands, you can remove the non-working microcircuit and replace it with a sensor from another mouse.

It so happens that the mouse works fine, but when we try to use its wheel, the page we are scrolling starts to jump up and down, or does not want to scroll at all. Alas, the failure of the mouse wheel is a fairly frequent breakdown and it was she who prompted me to write this article. First you need to carefully consider how evenly the wheel spins in the groove. The groove itself and the axle of the wheel have a hexagonal cross-section, but sometimes one or more sides of this hexagon can deform, as a result of which the axle will slip in the problem area.

If you have just such a problem, then it is solved by sealing the edge of the wheel axle with tape or electrical tape in small quantities. If everything is normal with the movement of the wheel, then a breakdown has occurred inside the encoder (scroll sensor). From prolonged use, it could loosen and it should be slightly compacted:

Pressing the mouse scroll mechanism latches

To do this, take small pliers and, one by one, press them down on the four metal brackets that attach the encoder to the plastic parts of the scroll mechanism. The main thing here is not to overdo it and not break the fragile plastic, but at the same time squeeze harder. Try plugging in your mouse and see if the negative effect of scrolling has diminished after each press.Alas, in my case, it was not possible to completely get rid of jerks. Yes, the frequency and variation in page jumps has decreased, but the jumps themselves have not completely disappeared. Then I decided to approach the issue of sealing radically and truly in Russian 🙂 I cut out a piece of thin but dense polyethylene from the old battery packaging and stuck it inside the mechanism:

A seal inserted inside the mouse scroll mechanism

Most interestingly, this manipulation helped! I just have to cut off the extra length of the strip and assemble the mouse 🙂

There are several more options:

• disassemble and clean the mechanism;
• replace the mechanism with a different mouse (with a different malfunction).

Any button has its own resource of clicks. Usually the contact at the left mouse button disappears. The mouse has several buttons: left, right and under the wheel. They are all usually the same. The broken button is practically not repaired in any way, but it can be replaced from another mouse.

Bottom view of soldered mouse button microswitch

The microswitch has three "legs", the first of which is free, and the other two are contacts that need to be soldered. Sometimes the button still works, but it doesn't work every time it is pressed. This symptom may indicate that frequent use has worn off the edge of the button pusher that presses the microswitch or poor contact inside the contact pad switch.

We disassemble the mouse and carefully study the problem button and its pusher. If we see a small dent, then the problem may be in it. It is enough to fill the washed area with a drop of epoxy resin or molten plastic. At the same time, while the switch is disassembled, you can clean the contact group.

The last problem you may encounter is that the mouse button double-clicks when you click on it - the so-called bounce of contacts. You can solve this matter by re-soldering the microswitch or ... programmatically!

In any case, before taking on the soldering iron, check the correctness of the mouse settings in the Windows Control Panel:

Standard mouse properties as they should be

By default, the double-click speed slider should be centered and the sticky mouse button option disabled. Try to set these parameters and check if the problem is solved. If not, another radical software way to "cure" a double click is to remove the mouse driver.

Mouse - one of the most actively used computer devices. Therefore, it is not surprising that they often fail. However, due to the simplicity of their device, in most cases everyone can fix the mouse! You don't need to be able to solder or understand electronics to do this.

The main thing is to clearly diagnose the cause of the breakdown. Here, as in medicine, a correct diagnosis is the path to a successful repair. I hope our article will allow you to determine what exactly broke in your mouse, and therefore, to fix the breakdown.

At maximum amplification in the place with a useful signal, the background signal is also amplified. Audio amplifiers, newly built, finished or refurbished, sometimes become a source of headache due to the intense hum that occurs.

How can you make the sound cleaner? The article below will talk about how to eliminate sources of noise and choose the right radio components for the amplifier. More details ...

Hob - this is the upper part of a large slab, no more than six centimeters thick. The hob belongs to the category of built-in appliances, as it cuts into the worktop, saving you space in the kitchen.

Hob Is an essential technique in a modern kitchen. Unlike a conventional stove, it allows you to create a solid work surface - it's beautiful, convenient and practical!

In TVs of the same model, the same malfunctions often occur. If your SHARP TV breaks down, then by looking at the attached list of malfunctions below, you may find exactly such a defect.

When the cause of the breakdown is established, a faulty part is found, then it is not difficult to replace it. Often, because of a penny worthless part or just soldering, you have to repair a TV, look for a master, or even buy a new TV and pay a lot of money for it.

Good day, dear readers!

The mouse and keyboard are among the most used peripherals. That is why these devices, especially mice, quickly have all kinds of problems in operation. This can be bad button response, double-clicking the buttons with a single click, problems with the scroll wheel (jerky), problems with the system detecting the device. Most of the problems are caused by mechanical wear and the ingress of dirt inside the mouse case.

If, when you press the mouse buttons, they do not work well or a double click works, then the probable reason lies precisely in mechanical wear. All elements of the manipulator are made of plastic and with frequent use, they are quickly erased, and wear appears. When the mouse button is pressed, it becomes insufficient for the button to operate reliably.

a) Wear is easy to detect. The mouse should be disassembled, for this it is enough to unscrew one or two screws from its bottom side. Mouse buttons can have different designs, but most of them are the plastic part of the top cover (or a separate element), which, through a plastic lever, acts on the button soldered on the printed circuit board. It is on this plastic lever that the production appears. To restore the functionality of the mouse, you must clean the surface of the lever with a file or emery paper, providing a flat surface. Also pay attention to the reliability of the PCB fastening and the quality of the button soldering points.

b) We will not go far from this problem and we will analyze in more detail the quality of the button itself, or in other words the mikrika, if the problem lies in the mikrika itself, then we can simply solder it and any old mouse can become a donor or purchase it in a special store, if such available nearby. To re-solder the microswitch, heat the legs of the microswitch and pry the switch with a knife (or pulling your fingers from the back side), you need to do this simultaneously and quickly, (when soldering, it is advisable not to overheat the button). After soldering on the board, you need to clean the holes from the old solder so that you can easily insert and solder the working micric.

v) Let's consider an option in which we would do without a soldering iron. To do this, we need to disassemble the button, it is not difficult to do this. Pry off the cover with a thin screwdriver or needle, first from one side, then from the other, remove the cover. After removal, a button will fall out of the cover, which it is advisable not to lose. The problem is that over time, the tongue on the plate begins to bend, we need to bend it slightly. Putting the button together and testing the mouse for performance.

2. The mouse wheel does not work (moves in jerks)

To solve this problem, we, of course, need to disassemble the mouse, this time we will work with a wireless manipulator. And so we unscrew the screws on the lower part of the mouse and remove the upper part of it, then unscrew all the screws that attach the board to the lower part of the mouse case. Now that the board is unscrewed, lift it up and carefully remove the wheel from the scroll sensor. So we got to the faulty item.

The reasons for the malfunction may be as follows, the mouse scrolling mechanism loosened up, with such a malfunction we could simply press four antennae with pliers and it would seem that everything would be repaired, but with such a repair, at best, your mouse would have lived for another month. Dirty contacts of the rotating mechanism could also cause the malfunction.Therefore, the next thing we have to do is disassemble the scroll sensor. We bend back the four antennae that hold the insides of the sensitive element

and peel off the part that is soldered into the board with three legs

after which we take out the drum, inside which there are contacts.

That's it, the disassembly is over, now all that remains is to remove it and put it back together. We take a cotton swab, moisten it in some alcoholic liquid and wipe the contact surface. Now, in the reverse order, we assemble the entire mechanism back. After assembly, it is necessary to strengthen the mouse scrolling mechanism, for this you need to install a U-shaped bracket from a metal plate.

We collect the mouse and see the result of our labors.

Software errors in the manipulator operation are also possible. You should first check the operation of the mouse on another computer or laptop, if possible, if errors also appear, then most likely the reason is in the hardware of the manipulator. Software errors are possible, most likely, with game controllers that require the installation of additional drivers or software, you can also update the drivers or hardware configuration in the device manager. With standard devices, software problems are very rare. But, nevertheless, if you have problems, try to find and install a suitable driver. Also check that the USB or PS / 2 port controller is working properly. You may need to update your motherboard driver to fix the problem.

1. Also, the reason for the poor performance of the buttons and the scroll wheel is ordinary dust, or rather, the one that has accumulated inside the mouse case. After several months of operation, a lot of dust, lint, hair and other dirt accumulates in the mouse. All this is reflected in the operation of the scroll wheel. The wheel becomes stiff and scrolling may be uneven. Disassemble the arm and carefully remove all dust and other dirt particles. The plastic case of the mouse can be wiped with wet wipes or rinsed in warm water. Avoid getting moisture on the elements of the printed circuit board, and if this happens, do not use the mouse until the moisture is completely dry (preferably within a day).

2. Another cause of problems with the mouse could be a broken wire. Due to the vigorous use of the manipulator, thin wiring breaks often occur at the place where it is soldered to the mouse board or on the connector. In this case, you should also disassemble the mouse and see where the wires are soldered, and also check the connector. If a wire break or a sealed connector leg is detected, the malfunction should be eliminated. If you do not have sufficient skills, then contact a specialist.

3. The next problem with the mouse may lie in the connector connecting the device to the computer. Modern pointing devices are connected via the USB connector, but there are still devices for connection via the PS / 2 port on the market. It is this port that often becomes the cause of various malfunctions. It's all about unreliable contacts and the ability of the thin pins of the connector to bend and break off easily. If the contacts are crumpled, they should be carefully aligned. In this case, you should be careful not to damage the adjacent contacts. With the USB connector, problems with poor contact are less common and appear when the device is connected to a heavily dirty port.

Other errors in the operation of the mouse are probably related to the release of the radio elements of the device, and in this case it is problematic to fix the mouse on your own without special equipment. All that remains is to purchase a new mouse.

Good luck to everyone and see you again.

They often ask the question: "The wire came off from the keyboard, where to solder what?" or: “The dog chewed the mouse connector. How to solder a new one? "

If the wire is torn from the device board, then see the letter marking on the board.

For USB devices, the pins are marked as follows: V, D-, D +, G. There may also be SG - braid.

True, there may not be any letter designations on the board. I will tell you below how to deal with this problem.

So what color is where to solder?

But the letter marking can be non-standard:

This marking is typical for PS / 2 devices, but oddly enough, it is also found on USB device boards.

If in the USB cable you did not find the classic colors (Red, White, Green, Black), these tables can help you:

If your device is not in the tables, take a multimeter in ohmmeter mode and ring the cord yourself: which contact with which wiring is ringing. Pin assignment in the picture below:

But what if the contacts on the board are not signed?
We carefully study the tracks and markings of the elements.

1. From terminal "G" usually goes the longest, thickest track. But the "V" road can compete with it. It is necessary to check the electrolytic capacitors - they are soldered to the "G" track with a minus. The minus on the capacitor body is marked with a longitudinal stripe.

2. From the contact "V" there is a more modest track. Electrolytes and LEDs are soldered to it with a plus.

3. Two identical tracks going straight to the controller microcircuit are "D-" and "D +". It is not easy to distinguish between them. We solder at random. If the device does not work, simply swap the wires on the D- and D + pins. Nothing bad will happen.

If the dog or younger sister gnawed off the plug from the mouse or keyboard, buy a new connector and solder it onto the cord according to the classic scheme.

If the colors in the stub of the cord turned out to be left, then either look for the pinout in the table of non-standard colors (see above) or look at the board, which color is soldered to which contact. Above, I have already described how to calculate the appointment of a contact by the board.

If relevant, I can file a similar material on mice and PS / 2 keyboards.

The mouse manipulator plays a significant role in the life of a modern person, and its failure at the wrong time can be a hassle if there is no store or a spare tailed beast nearby. In this article, we will look at the main breakdowns of computer mice and how to fix them yourself. All currently available mice can be divided into wired and wireless. We will not divide into optical and ball ones, we just note that among the optical ones, laser mice are distinguished as more accurate. Also, optical manipulators are of the visible spectrum (emit red light) and infrared spectrum, the efficiency of the emitter of the latter can be determined, for example, using a mobile phone camera.

To repair a computer mouse, we need:

• screwdriver
• nippers (side cutters)
• multimeter
• soldering iron and solder
• heat shrink tubing or other consumables, depending on the type of detected breakdown

The mouse is one of the devices whose reliability has been brought to a high level (we are talking about devices produced by well-known brands, for example, I like the quality of A4-tech and Logitech products, and absolutely do not like the quality of Gembird cords and buttons). Nevertheless, there are also weaknesses in this miracle of technology. Typical breakdowns of mice include the following:

• break (break) of the wire
• button failure
• broken scroll wheel.

In 90% of cases, the breakdown of a wired mouse is associated with the bending of the wire at the base of the manipulator. This is due to the fact that it is in this place that the wire is constantly bending when moving the mouse over the working surface. The signs of this breakdown are intermittent operation, or operability only with a certain "kink" of the wire. For compact "laptop" manipulators with a spring-loaded coil in the middle of the wire, wire breaks near the usb connector are also characteristic. Repairing a broken wire is simple: making sure that you have localized the breakage, we bite off the wire a couple of centimeters higher and lower from the damaged area with wire cutters.Next, we solder both tails, observing the color scheme, wires. Do not forget to insulate them with a heat-shrinkable tube or electrical tape (in extreme cases, wrapping each wire in several layers of adhesive tape).

Finally, you have to fix the wire at the base of the mouse, to do this, you can carefully cut the original rubber "cable gland", remove the old one from it, insert a new cable and pour in a little glue, it also does not hurt to glue the cable to the board or case. For the purpose of further maintainability, I use hot melt glue. How it looks after renovation, see the photo.

Improper working out of clicks on the mouse buttons can have several different reasons, you can find out the reason practically "by ear and by touch." The most common causes of button problems are:

In the case of problems with the scroll wheel, there are 2 main reasons for their occurrence:

• Problems caused by knob operation. Outwardly, they manifest themselves in uneven scrolling, which is accompanied by jerks of the page up and down. This problem is solved by carefully opening the knob and removing dust from the contacts. Another option is to loosen the attachment of the rotary encoder basket to its base. You can watch how to tighten the mount in this video clip
• Problems caused by mechanical damage to the wheel axle. If you overdid it and broke the axle, do not despair, there are several options for eliminating this breakdown: you can find a self-tapping screw of a suitable diameter, grind its head, creating a kind of hexagon (trying it on to the knob so that there are no cranks) and heating it over the fire, screw it in instead of the missing part of the axle. The second option is to find a hex key that fits exactly into the knob hole, cut it off along the length of the axis, carefully drill a hole in the scroll wheel and insert your new axis.

I have not yet repaired many of them, but a couple of directions for finding breakdowns can be voiced:

Today it is difficult to imagine life without computer technology. With the advent of the user graphical interface on personal computers, the computer mouse has become an integral part of it. A modern optical mouse can last many years without being repaired, but nothing lasts forever and sooner or later it stops working as it should. It is rarely taken to the workshop, as for the price it will most likely cost more than a new one. Therefore, they usually repair the mouse themselves or buy a new one.

The USB mouse that I will be repairing has served me for 5 years. The first repair was 3 years after the purchase (cleaned the buttons). Recently, the left button began to click badly again, and this time scrolling of pages stopped working correctly.

To disassemble the mouse, you need to find and unscrew the fastening screws from the bottom side. On this model, the cover is fixed with one screw (there are models on which it is fixed by two or more).

After unscrewing the screw, you need to slightly lift the cover (behind, where the screw is), move it forward so as not to break off the latches on the cover.

As you can see, in the photo, the board with the details is simply pressed by the cover to the base (on some models it is fixed with screws or a latch).

Tact buttons or momentary microswitches are usually used as buttons. The contact plate of the clock button, on which, as a rule, silver sputtering is applied, over time, more and more oxidized, that is, the tarnishing film becomes thicker and with a slight push on the button, crushing the tarnishing films does not cause electrical conductivity even due to the tunnel effect. In other words, oxides interfere with the normal operation of the buttons.

The buttons should be replaced with new ones, but, as always, at the right moment they are not at hand and all that remains is to repair them. In addition, it will not be difficult to restore their working capacity.

To disassemble the button, you need to put a knife or other suitable tool between the lid and its base, and, prying, rivet the rivets. I advise you to leave the lid on one rivet, so that later it will be easier to reassemble the button.

In the blue circle there are oxidized metal plates.

There will be almost no sense in cleaning with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol; instead, it is better to rub them with pressure on a sheet of paper. "Grind" the contacts inside the case with a match or a toothpick.

After cleaning, they looked like this.

Place the metal plates with the convex side up. When assembling, it is not advisable to touch the plates from the side of the contacts; it is better to use non-magnetic tweezers for installation.

In some types of tact buttons there are rubber shock absorbers, their location is almost impossible to confuse.

After installing the shock absorbers and upper push-button parts, the covers can be closed and then riveted or glued.

Surely, many users have encountered such a breakdown, in which, during the rotation of the mouse wheel, the page moves in jerks, the reaction is inadequate or not at all. Usually, these kinds of symptoms indicate a malfunction of a device called an encoder (angle sensor), which is responsible for this option.

To disassemble it, it is necessary to unbend the metal legs holding the plastic body of the sensor.

Then, by slightly moving the encoder base, you can easily pull out the plate, which is installed to limit the scrolling step by clearly fixing the position of the petals on the contacts. After him and the disc itself with copper petals.

Most often, the breakdown is caused by the fact that the copper petals, systematically sliding over the same place, eventually wear out the body and contacts, leaving indentations on them. Due to the plastic particles, which are dragged by the petals (from the body to the contacts), the conductivity of the signals deteriorates, that is, the contacts "get dirty".

First you need to clean the encoder from grease, dirt and oxides. Then the copper tabs can be bent slightly (from the disc to the contacts).

If the grooves are deep, you can move the petals so that they do not fall on them henceforth.

It is advisable to apply technical petroleum jelly to the contacts during assembly, it will significantly extend the life of the sensor.

The metal paws of the sensor case do not need to be tightly clamped, otherwise the mouse wheel will spin tightly.

With such simple manipulations, you can restore the performance of the computer mouse yourself, to which you are so accustomed.

Buttons and encoder, if possible, it is better to immediately replace them with new ones, they will last longer, and besides, you will save time and nerves.

When assembling the mouse, do not forget to clean the optical lens from dust, dirt and lint.

In this topic, I want to share with you information of a small content - on the repair of a wired computer mouse. Spending time at the laptop, the mouse ceased to perform the functions of controlling the laptop. That is, the light bulb in the mouse was randomly turned on and off - when the wire moved.

To inspect the computer mouse and establish the cause of its malfunction, the mouse had to be disassembled.

It is very simple to understand a computer mouse. First, you need to pick up the tip of the screwdriver under the screw head in order to unscrew the screw and open the mouse case.

Accordingly, to disassemble the mouse, a bit is selected for a miniature screwdriver (photo 1).

After disassembling the mouse, you need to carefully examine the mouse wheel and, if necessary, remove particles of lint, hair and dust from the wheel shaft. For this cleaning, you can use tweezers and a fluffy brush (the name of the brush is "squirrel").

This image shows the mouse wheel after removing various small particles (photo 2). After cleaning the mouse, I assembled the mouse and reconnected it to the laptop. In this case, the malfunction repeated itself. I had to re-disassemble the computer mouse to find the cause of the malfunction.

So it was found that when you touch the cord at the base of the mouse, the cord easily bends. The cord had to be cut and some of the insulation removed from the cord.

It was found that among the four wires (red, white, blue, black) connected to the circuit board, the black insulated wire was unusable (photo 3).

In order not to solder the wires to the contacts of the circuit, I had to make a simpler decision for their connections.

The wire to the wire was first soldered separately (white with white, black with black, etc.), and the junction was insulated with insulating tape (photo 4).

Then, the wires were bundled and also insulated (photo 5).

Before assembling the computer mouse, the insulated wires must be laid in such a way that the two halves of the mouse body can be freely connected. The two halves are connected to each other with latches and then fixed with a screw (photo 1).

That is, in principle, all the repair, which requires, first of all, a careful relationship with the computer mouse circuit.

The first question that I want to ask is: "Why repair a mouse, because nowadays it is easy to buy a new one, than waste time repairing an old one?" At the same time, a number of PC users will not agree with this, there are very convenient items that you get used to, and there are other reasons why there is no desire to part with the thing. It is proposed to give the mouse a second life.

The mouse is one of the most commonly used peripheral devices, and as a result, various problems appear. The main problems in the work of a mouse for a computer (laptop): the operating system does not detect the device; buttons do not work well; the scroll wheel jerks.

A significant number of problems are associated with contamination penetrating into the device body and mechanical wear.

First step. Dismantling a computer mouse.

Unscrew the screw located at the bottom of the housing. In the design under consideration, the screw is located under the silicone plate, in some versions - under the paper stickers. (Fig. 1)

With the tip of a screwdriver, remove the edge of the plate and peel it off, taking it to the side. In the case of the paper version, we pierce it. (Fig. 2)

Carefully remove the upper part of the case from the grooves.

In fig. 3, arrows indicate individual elements that are most subject to wear and tear, which makes the mouse perform poorly. Basically, the USB cable at the entrance to the case and microswitches fail.

Second step. Elimination of problems with the operation of a computer mouse.

• Eliminate the problem where the scroll wheel jerks. That is, when the mouse moves, the cursor stands still, moves intermittently, and in order for it to move, it is necessary to move the mouse several times.

The main reason for this problem is that the USB cable at the entrance to the mouse case is interrupted due to repeated bending of the wire. In order to eliminate the malfunction
cut off the damaged section of the USB cable with a knife or scissors, for example, as indicated by the dotted line in Fig. 4.

For the convenience of work, the board is removed from the case, for which it is necessary to bend two latches that fix it. Then the upper cable insulation is removed and the ends of the conductors are stripped. In the presence of a soldering iron, the ends of the conductors are tinned. (Fig 5)

Then, by twisting, we connect together the veins of the ends of the USB cable in pairs in accordance with the color, and if you have a soldering iron, you can solder. All joints must be covered with insulating material, and then laid in a large twist in one line. (Fig 6)

For insulation, we use, for example, heat shrinkage, which is preliminarily put on the ends of the cores, it turns out more accurately, but not fundamentally, since the aesthetics will be covered by the body. (Fig. 7)

If you have experience in soldering, it is also necessary to strip the damaged section of the USB cable, then it is tinned and soldered from the side of the tracks for the connector.When soldering, the core color sequence must be observed. (Fig. 8)

• Eliminating the malfunction of bad button operation, i.e. to perform any function, you need to click the left mouse button several times, or double click with one click. The reason is the microswitch being pressed by the left key.

In this case, you cannot do without a soldering iron. It is required to unsolder the microswitches of the left mouse button and the "scroll wheel" and swap them. The "wheel" functionality is mainly used only for scrolling through pages, and as an additional button it is extremely rare. Therefore, this microswitch can be installed instead of a worn one.

The microswitch is easily soldered, despite the fact that it has three outputs.

With the end of the soldering iron rod (sting), we simultaneously touch the middle and any of the extreme terminals, while trying to lift the edge with our finger, but not exert strong pressure. (Fig. 9)

Then the opposite side of the microswitch is soldered off, and the two leads are raised in the same way and the sting is heated. (Fig. 10)

If the attempt to remove the microswitch from the board is unsuccessful, the desoldering procedure is repeated, i.e. first, one side is sealed, then the other. When removing both microswitches, swap them and solder them.

Situations often arise when some of the solder remains in the hole where the contact of the radio component is inserted. (Fig. 11)

If necessary, proceed as follows to resolve this problem. A regular needle is used, or a needle from a disposable syringe, which is inserted into the hole from the side of the radio components, and from the side of the tracks, this hole must be heated with a soldering iron. Warming up the solder will allow the needle to enter the hole, which will force it out.

Reminder. To restore the effective operation of the mouse, it is necessary to clean the optical system, the scroll wheel and, of course, the case from dust.

At the end, we assemble the repaired mouse in the reverse order and enjoy its work. Good luck to all!