Do-it-yourself mouse wire repair

Computer mouse Probably everyone knows what it is. This is a manipulator or coordinate input device for controlling the cursor and issuing various commands to the computer. Over time, various malfunctions appear in this device: damage to the stranded wire, the sensor often malfunctions, the mouse wheel (scroll) sometimes scrolls, the mouse buttons do not work, etc.

Let's take a look at do-it-yourself repair of the most popular computer manipulator - a mouse!

The mouse is technically a fairly simple device, so it is quite easy to repair with your own hands. If you know how to handle a soldering iron even a little, then this will allow you to fix almost any mouse breakdown. However, even if you are not friends with a soldering iron, you can fix some typical mouse damage with a minimum set of tools:

Now there are several types of computer mice that differ in the principle of operation (roller, optical or laser), the number of buttons (from 3 and above), as well as the type of connection (PS / 2, USB or wireless (with a USB adapter)). However, the most common are optical ones with a USB or PS / 2 connection.

Such mice are relatively inexpensive (not much more expensive than roller mice, but much cheaper than laser ones) and at the same time they have a sufficiently high accuracy, which is enough for most users.

We usually disassemble the mouse using a small Phillips screwdriver. To do this, turn the mouse upside down, find and unscrew one or more screws that hold it together. If the screws are not visible, then they are most often hidden under stickers or stand-legs:

Usually the screws hold the mouse only in the back. The front part (where the buttons are), most often, is fixed due to special grooves. To remove the top cover from these grooves, you need to slightly lift it by the freed back and slowly pull it towards you. You can put a little more pressure on it from the front, but the main thing is not to be very hard, otherwise you will break it! The grooves on the top cover of the mouse and the pins that held them:

When you remove the top cover, you will find a small printed circuit board under it, which is usually fixed only on small plastic pins (although it may be screwed to the case). Wires (if the mouse is wired), buttons, a scrolling mechanism, as well as a complex of a backlight LED and a sensitive optical sensor will be soldered to this board:

To completely disassemble the mouse, we need to remove the printed circuit board from it and disconnect the scroll wheel (it can be easily pulled out of the encoder slots).

Most often, when connected to a computer, the mouse either does not work at all, or the cursor twitches or disappears if one of the wires frays or breaks somewhere (unless, of course, the mouse is wired).

A typical optical mouse usually has 4 to 6 different colored wires. The colors and number of wires depend on the specific manufacturer, however, there is also a standard:

Mouse wiring color scheme

Nutrition - red (other options: golden, orange, blue, white).

Data reception - white (other options: blue, orange, yellow, green).

Data transfer - green (other options: golden blue, yellow, red, blue).

Land - black (other options: golden green, green, white, blue).

You can clearly judge the correct wiring by looking at the letter marking of the wires in the place where they are soldered to the printed circuit board (unless, of course, they are torn off the board). Breakage and chafing of wires most often occurs in places where the wire is bent at the exit from the mouse body. You can indirectly check for a break by pulling out the wire and trying to bend it in doubtful places (it will be easier to bend at the break). However, in order to judge for sure, you will have to remove the insulation by carefully cutting it with a blade.

Having found the place where the wiring is broken, you need to restore their integrity by soldering or twisting. I personally prefer the twist 🙂 Here is a photo of the finished twist, how it should look:

After splicing the wires, insulate them from each other with electrical tape or tape. You can try. In order not to burn the port, you need to connect or disconnect the mouse when the computer is turned off! To eliminate all doubts with a break, try ringing all the contacts of the USB (or PS / 2) plug with a multimeter. After the repair, the mouse should work.

Often there is also a situation where we can not precisely point the cursor at a certain point. It constantly trembles and moves by itself. This situation clearly indicates clogging of the optical group of the mouse. The blockage is most often external. Dust or hair gets into the compartment where the light of the diode is reflected from the table.

To get rid of such a blockage, you do not even need to disassemble the mouse. It is enough to turn it over and blow it. As a last resort, use a small brush to remove stubborn debris.

If, after such manipulations, the mouse cursor trembles, then, most likely, either the sensor is clogged inside or is completely out of order.

In any case, you can try to disassemble the mouse and clean the sensor with a toothpick with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol wrapped around it:

Optical sensor of a computer mouse

Before cleaning the sensor with a cotton swab, you can also try blowing it to blow out fine dust that can stick when wet. After that, gently, without pressure, insert the toothpick with rotational movements into the sensor hole. After making a couple of turns and without stopping to rotate, we take out the toothpick, wait for the alcohol to dry and try to connect the mouse.

If after all cleaning attempts the sensor does not work normally, then if you have another mouse, a soldering iron and straight arms, you can unsolder the non-working microcircuit and replace it with a sensor from another mouse.

It happens that the mouse works fine, but when we try to use its wheel, the page we are scrolling starts jumping up and down, or does not want to scroll at all. Alas, the failure of the mouse wheel is a fairly common failure, and it was she who prompted me to write this article. First you need to carefully consider how evenly the wheel spins in the groove. The groove itself and the wheel axle have a hexagonal section, but sometimes one or more sides of this hexagon can be deformed, as a result of which the axle will slip in a problem area.

If you have just such a problem, then it is solved by sealing the edge of the wheel axle with tape or electrical tape in small quantities. If everything is fine with the movement of the wheel, then the breakdown occurred inside the encoder (scroll sensor). From prolonged use, it could become loose and should be slightly compacted:

We press the latches of the mouse scroll mechanism

To do this, take small pliers and, in turn, press them on the four metal brackets that secure the encoder to the plastic parts of the scroll mechanism. The main thing here is not to overdo it and not break the fragile plastic, but at the same time tighten it harder. Try connecting a mouse and see if the negative scrolling effect is reduced after each press.Alas, in my case, it was not possible to completely get rid of jerks. Yes, the frequency and spread of page jumps have decreased, but the jumps themselves have not completely disappeared. Then I decided to approach the issue of compaction radically and truly in Russian 🙂 I cut a piece of thin but dense polyethylene from an old battery pack and stuck it inside the mechanism:

The seal inserted inside the mouse scroll mechanism

What is most interesting, this manipulation helped! I just have to cut off the excess length of the strip and assemble the mouse 🙂

There are several more options:

• disassemble and clean the mechanism;
• replace the mechanism with another mouse (with a different malfunction).

Each button has its own click resource. Usually the contact at the left mouse button disappears. The mouse has several buttons: left, right and under the wheel. They are all usually the same. A non-working button is almost never repaired, but it can be replaced from another mouse.

Bottom view of a soldered mouse button microswitch

The microswitch has three "legs", the first of which is free, and the other two are contacts that need to be soldered. Sometimes the button still works, but it does not work every time it is pressed. Such a symptom may signal that the edge of the button pusher, which presses the microswitch, or poor contact inside the contact plate switch, has worn off from frequent use.

We disassemble the mouse and carefully study the problematic button and its pusher. If we see a small dent, then the problem may be precisely in it. It is enough to fill the washed place with a drop of epoxy or melted plastic. At the same time, while the switch was disassembled, you can clean the contact group.

The last problem that you may encounter - the mouse button double-clicks when you click on it - the so-called bounce of contacts. You can solve this case by soldering the microswitch or ... programmatically!

In any case, before taking up the soldering iron, check that the mouse settings are correct in the Windows Control Panel:

Default mouse properties as they should be

By default, the double-click speed slider should be centered, and the sticky mouse buttons option should be disabled. Try to set these parameters and check if the problem is solved. If not, another radical programmatic way to "cure" a double click is to remove the mouse driver.

Mice - one of the most actively used computer devices. Therefore, it is not surprising that they often fail. However, due to the simplicity of their device, in most cases everyone can fix the mouse! To do this, it is not necessary to be able to solder or understand electronics.

The main thing is to clearly diagnose the cause of the breakdown. Here, as in medicine, the correct diagnosis is the path to successful repair. I hope our article will allow you to determine what exactly is broken in your mouse, and therefore, to fix the breakdown.

With maximum gain in a place with a useful signal, the background signal is also amplified. Audio frequency amplifiers, newly created, finished or repaired, sometimes become a source of headache due to the resulting strong background.

How to make the sound clearer? The article below will discuss how to eliminate noise sources and choose the right radio components for the amplifier. Read more…

hob - this is the upper part of a large slab, no more than six centimeters thick. The hob belongs to the category of built-in appliances, as it crashes into the countertop, saving your space in the kitchen.

hob It is a staple in the modern kitchen. Unlike a conventional stove, it allows you to create a solid work surface - it's beautiful, convenient and practical!

In TVs of the same model, the same malfunctions often occur. If your SHARP TV is broken, then by looking at the attached list of faults below, you may find exactly such a defect.

When the cause of the breakdown is established, a faulty part is found, then it is not difficult to replace it. It often happens because of a penny worthless part or just soldering, you have to take a TV for repair, look for a master, or generally buy a new TV and pay a lot of money for it.

Good day dear readers!

The mouse and keyboard are among the most used peripherals. That is why these devices, especially mice, quickly have all sorts of problems in operation. This can be poor button response, double-clicking buttons with a single click, problems with the scroll wheel (moving jerkily), problems with device detection by the system. Most of the problems are caused by mechanical wear and tear and dirt getting inside the mouse body.

If your mouse buttons do not work well when you press them or a double click is triggered, then the probable reason lies precisely in mechanical wear. All elements of the manipulator are made of plastic and with frequent use they are quickly erased, there is a development. When you press the mouse button, it becomes not enough for the button to work reliably.

a) Detecting wear is fairly easy. You should disassemble the mouse, for this it is enough to unscrew one or two screws from its lower side. Mouse buttons can have a different design, but for the most part it is a plastic part of the top cover (or a separate element), which, through a plastic lever, acts on a button soldered on a printed circuit board. On this plastic lever, the development appears. To restore the performance of the mouse, it is necessary to clean the surface of the lever with a needle file or sandpaper, providing a flat surface. Also pay attention to the reliability of the PCB fastening and the quality of the button solder spots.

b) We will not go far from this problem and we will analyze in more detail the quality of the button itself or, in other words, the mikrik, if the problem lies in the mikrik itself, then we can simply solder it and any old mouse can become a donor or purchase it in a special store, if there is one available nearby. To solder the mikrik, we heat the legs of the microswitch and prying with a knife (or pulling with your fingers from the back side) pull out the switch, you need to do this simultaneously and quickly, (when soldering, it is advisable not to overheat the button). After soldering on the board, it is necessary to clean the holes from the old solder so that you can easily insert and solder the working mikrik.

v) Let's look at an option in which we would do without a soldering iron. To do this, we need to disassemble the button, this is not difficult to do. We pry off the cover with a thin screwdriver or a needle, first from one side, then from the other, remove the cover. After removal, a button will fall out of the cover, which it is advisable not to lose. The problem is that over time, the tongue on the record begins to sag, we need to bend it slightly. We collect the button and check the mouse for performance.

2. Mouse wheel does not work (moves in jerks)

To solve this problem, we, of course, need to disassemble the mouse, this time we will work with a wireless manipulator. And so we unscrew the screws on the bottom of the mouse and remove its upper part, then we unscrew all the screws that attach the board to the bottom of the mouse body. Now that the board is unscrewed, lift it up and carefully pull the wheel out of the scroll sensor. So we got to the faulty element.

The reasons for the malfunction can be as follows, the mouse scroll mechanism has become loose, with such a malfunction, we could simply press the four antennae with pliers and it would seem that everything was fixed, but with such a repair, at best, your mouse would live for another month. Also, the cause of the malfunction could be contaminated contacts of the spinning mechanism.Therefore, the next thing we need to do is to disassemble the scroll sensor. We bend four antennae that hold the insides of the sensing element

and bend the part that is soldered into the board with three legs

then we pull out the drum, inside which there are contacts.

Everything, the disassembly is over, now it remains only to eliminate and assemble back. We take a cotton swab, moisten it in some alcohol liquid and wipe the contact surface. Now, in reverse order, we assemble the entire mechanism back. After assembly, it is necessary to strengthen the mouse scroll mechanism, for this you need to install a U-shaped bracket from a metal plate.

We assemble a mouse and look at the result of our labors.

Software errors in the operation of the manipulator are also possible. You should first check the operation of the mouse, if possible, on another computer or laptop, if errors also appear, then most likely the reason is in the hardware of the manipulator. Software errors are possible, most likely with game controllers that require the installation of additional drivers or software, you can also update drivers or hardware configuration in the device manager. With standard devices, software problems are very rare. But, nevertheless, if you have problems, try to find and install the appropriate driver. Also check that the USB or PS/2 port controller is working properly. You may need to update your motherboard driver to fix the problem.

1. Also, the reason for the poor performance of the buttons and the scroll wheel is ordinary dust, or rather the one that has accumulated inside the mouse case. After a few months of operation, a lot of dust, lint, hair and other contaminants accumulate in the mouse. All this is reflected in the operation of the scroll wheel. The wheel becomes stiff and scrolling may be uneven. Disassemble the manipulator and carefully remove all dust and other dirt particles. The plastic case of the mouse can be wiped with wet wipes or washed in warm water. Avoid getting moisture on the PCB elements, and if this happens, do not use the mouse until the moisture is completely dry (preferably within a day).

2. Another reason for problems with the mouse may be a broken wire. Due to the vigorous use of the manipulator, thin wiring often breaks at the place where it is soldered to the mouse board or on the connector. In this case, you should also disassemble the mouse and inspect the place of soldering of the wires, as well as check the connector. If a wire break or a soldered connector leg is detected, the malfunction should be eliminated. If you do not have sufficient skills, then contact a specialist.

3. The next problem with the mouse may lie in the connector for connecting the device to the computer. Modern manipulators connect via a USB connector, but there are still devices on the market that connect via a PS / 2 port. It is this port that often causes various malfunctions. It's all about unreliable contacts and the ability of thin connector pins to easily bend and break off. If the contacts are crushed, they should be carefully aligned. In this case, be careful not to damage adjacent contacts. With a USB connector, poor contact problems are less common and appear when a device is connected to a heavily contaminated port.

Other errors in the operation of the mouse are probably related to the output of the radio elements of the device, and in this case it is problematic to fix the mouse on your own without special equipment. It remains only to purchase a new mouse.

Good luck to everyone and until the new repair.

They often ask the question: “The wire came off the keyboard, where to solder what?” or: “The dog chewed on the mouse connector. How to solder a new one?

If the wire is torn off the device board, then see the lettering on the board.

For USB devices, the contacts are marked like this: V, D-, D +, G. Maybe also SG - a braid.

True, there may not be any letter designations on the board. How to deal with this trouble, I will tell below.

So, what color where to solder?

But the lettering can be non-standard:

This marking is typical for PS / 2 devices, but oddly enough, it is also found on the boards of USB devices.

If you did not meet the classic colors (Red, White, Green, Black) in the USB cable, these tables can help you:

If your device is not in the tables, take a multimeter in ohmmeter mode and ring the cord yourself: which contact is ringing with which wire. Assignment of contacts in the picture below:

But what if the contacts on the board are not signed?
We carefully study the tracks and the marking of the elements.

1. Pin "G" usually has the longest, fattest track. But the V road can compete with it. It is necessary to check the electrolytic capacitors - they are soldered to the "G" track with a minus. The minus on the capacitor case is marked with a longitudinal stripe.

2. From the contact "V" there is a more modest track. Electrolytes and LEDs are soldered to it with a plus.

3. Two identical tracks going straight to the controller chip are "D-" and "D +". It's not easy to tell them apart. We solder at random. If the device does not work, simply change the wires on the D- and D + contacts in places. Nothing bad will happen.

If the dog or younger sister gnawed off the plug from the mouse or keyboard, buy a new connector and solder to the cord according to the classical scheme.

If the colors in the stub of the cord turned out to be left, then either look for the pinout in the table of non-standard colors (see above) or look at the board, which color is soldered to which contact. Above, I already told you how to calculate the purpose of a contact on the board.

If relevant, I can file similar material on PS / 2 mice and keyboards.

The mouse manipulator occupies a significant role in the life of a modern person, and its failure at the wrong time can cause trouble if there is no store nearby, or a spare tailed one. In this article, we will look at the main breakdowns of computer mice and how to fix them yourself. All currently available mice can be divided into wired and wireless. We will not divide into optical and ball, we will only note that among optical mice, laser mice are distinguished into the category of more accurate ones. Optical manipulators also come in the visible spectrum (they emit red light) and the infrared spectrum, the performance of the emitter of the latter can be determined, for example, using a mobile phone camera.

To repair a computer mouse, we need:

• screwdriver
• nippers (side cutters)
• multimeter
• soldering iron and solder
• heat shrink tubing or other consumables depending on the type of damage detected

The mouse is one of the devices whose reliability is brought to a high level (we are talking about devices manufactured by well-known brands, for example, I like the quality of A4-tech and Logitech products, and absolutely do not like the quality of Gembird cords and buttons). Nevertheless, there are also weaknesses in this miracle of technology. The typical breakdowns of mice include the following:

• broken wire
• button failure
• broken scroll wheel.

In 90% of cases, the breakdown of a wired mouse is associated with a kink in the wire at the base of the manipulator. This is due to the fact that it is in this place that the wire is constantly bent when moving the mouse over the work surface. The signs of this breakdown are intermittent operation, or operability only with a certain “kink” of the wire. For compact "laptop" manipulators with a spring-loaded coil in the middle of the wire, wire breaks near the usb connector are also typical. Repairing a broken wire is simple: after making sure that you have located the place of the break, we bite off the wire with wire cutters a couple of centimeters above and below the damaged place.Next, solder both tails, observing the color scheme, wires. At the same time, do not forget to isolate them with a heat shrink tube or electrical tape (in extreme cases, wrapping each wire in several layers of adhesive tape).

Finally, you have to fix the wire at the base of the mouse; for this, you can carefully cut the original rubber “cable entry”, remove the old one from it, insert a new cable and pour in some glue, it also does not hurt to glue the cable to the board or case. In order to further maintainability, I use hot glue. How it looks after repair, see the photo.

Incorrect working out of pressing the mouse buttons can have several different reasons, you can find out the reason practically “by ear and by touch”. The most common causes of button problems are:

In the case of scroll wheel problems, there are 2 main reasons for their occurrence:

• Problems caused by the operation of the encoder. Outwardly, they appear in uneven scrolling, which is accompanied by jerks of the page up and down. This problem is solved by carefully opening the valcoder and removing dust from the contacts. Another option is to loosen the fastening of the valcoder basket to its base. How to tighten the mount you can see in this video clip
• Problems caused by mechanical damage to the wheel axle. If you overdo it and break the axle, do not despair, there are several options for eliminating this breakdown: you can find a self-tapping screw of a suitable diameter, grind its head by creating a semblance of a 6-hedron (trying it on the shaft encoder so that there are no turns) and heating it on fire, screw it in instead of the missing part of the axle. The second option is to find a hex key that fits exactly into the shaft encoder hole, cut it along the length of the axis, carefully drill a hole in the scroll wheel and insert your new axis.

I haven’t had a chance to repair a lot of them yet, but a couple of directions for finding breakdowns can be voiced:

Today it is difficult to imagine life without computers. With the advent of the user graphical interface on personal computers, the computer mouse has become an integral part of it. A modern optical mouse can serve without repair for many years, but nothing lasts forever and sooner or later it stops working as it should. It is rarely taken to the workshop, as for the price it will most likely cost more than a new one. Therefore, they usually repair the mouse themselves or buy a new one.

The USB mouse that I will be repairing has served me for 5 years. The first repair was 3 years after the purchase (I cleaned the buttons). Recently, the left button began to click badly again, and this time page scrolling stopped working correctly.

To disassemble the mouse, you need to find and unscrew the mounting screws from the bottom side. On this model, the cover is fixed with one screw (there are models on which it is attached with two or more).

After unscrewing the screw, you need to slightly lift the cover (behind where the screw is) to move it forward so as not to break off the latches on the cover.

As you can see, in the photo, the board with the parts is simply pressed by the cover to the base (on some models it is fixed with screws or a latch).

As buttons, tact buttons or momentary microswitches are usually used. The contact plate of the tact button, which is usually silver-coated, oxidizes more and more over time, that is, the tarnish film becomes thicker and when the button is pressed lightly, crushing the tarnish films does not cause electrical conductivity even due to the tunnel effect. In other words, oxides interfere with the normal operation of the buttons.

The buttons should be replaced with new ones, but, as always, at the right time they are not at hand and it remains only to repair them. In addition, it will not be difficult to restore their performance.

To disassemble the button, you need to insert a knife or other suitable tool between the cover and its base, and, prying it, rivet the rivets. I advise you to leave the cover on one rivet, so that later it will be easier to assemble the button back.

In the blue circle are oxidized metal plates.

From cleaning with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol, there will be almost no sense; instead, it is better to rub them against a sheet of paper with pressure. Contacts inside the housing "grind" with a match or a toothpick.

After cleaning they looked like this.

Metal plates should be placed with the convex side up. When assembling, it is not advisable to touch the plates from the side of the contacts; it is better to use non-magnetic tweezers for installation.

In some varieties of tact buttons there are rubber shock absorbers, their location is almost impossible to confuse.

After installing the shock absorbers and the upper pressing parts of the buttons, you can close the covers, and then rivet or glue them.

Surely, many users have encountered such a breakdown, in which, during the rotation of the mouse wheel, the page moves in jerks, the reaction is inadequate or it does not exist at all. Typically, these kinds of signs indicate a malfunction of a device called an encoder (rotation angle sensor), which is responsible for this option.

To disassemble it, it is necessary to unbend the metal tabs holding the plastic body of the sensor.

Then, slightly moving the encoder base, you can easily pull out the plate, which is installed to limit the scrolling step by clearly fixing the position of the petals on the contacts. After him, and the disk itself with copper petals.

Most often, the breakdown is caused by the fact that the copper petals, systematically sliding over the same place, eventually wear out the case and contacts, leaving recesses on them. Due to the particles of plastic, which are dragged by the petals (from the case to the contacts), the conductivity of the signals worsens, that is, the contacts are “dirty”.

First you need to clean the encoder from grease, dirt and oxides. Then the copper petals can be slightly bent (from the disk to the contacts).

If the grooves are deep, you can move the petals so that they no longer fall on them.

During assembly, it is desirable to apply technical petroleum jelly to the contacts; it will significantly extend the life of the sensor.

The metal paws of the sensor housing do not need to be strongly clamped, otherwise the mouse wheel will spin tightly.

With such simple manipulations, you can restore the working capacity of a computer mouse, which you are so used to.

If possible, it is better to immediately replace the buttons and encoder with new ones, they will last longer, and also save time and nerves.

When assembling the mouse, do not forget to clean the optical lens from dirt and lint.

In this topic, I want to share with you information of a small content - on the repair of a wired computer mouse. Spending my time at the laptop, the mouse ceased to perform the functions of controlling the laptop. That is, the light bulb in the mouse arbitrarily turned on and off - when the wire moved.

To inspect a computer mouse and determine the cause of its malfunction, the mouse had to be disassembled.

Disassembling a computer mouse is very easy. In the beginning, you need to pick up the tip of the screwdriver under the head of the screw in order to unscrew the screw and open the body of the mouse.

Accordingly, to disassemble the mouse, a bit is selected for a miniature screwdriver (photo 1).

After disassembling the mouse, you need to carefully inspect the mouse wheel and, if necessary, remove particles of lint, hair and dust from the wheel shaft. With this cleaning, you can use tweezers and a fluffy brush (the name of the brush is “squirrel”).

This image shows the mouse wheel after various small particles have been removed (photo 2). After cleaning the mouse, the mouse was assembled by me and reconnected to the laptop. However, the error reappeared. I had to re-disassemble the computer mouse to find the cause of the malfunction.

So it was found that when touching the cord at the base of the mouse, the cord easily bent. The cord had to be cut off and some of the insulation removed from the cord.

It was found that among the four wires (red, white, blue, black) connected to the circuit board, the wire with black insulation was in an unusable condition (photo 3).

In order not to solder the wires to the contacts of the circuit, I had to take a simpler solution for their connections.

The wire to the wire was first soldered separately (white with white, black with black, and so on), and the junction was insulated with insulating tape (photo 4).

Then, the wires were bundled and also insulated (photo 5).

Before assembling a computer mouse, insulated wires must be laid in such a way that the two halves of the mouse body can be easily connected. The two halves are interconnected by latches and then fixed with a screw (photo 1).

That, in principle, is the whole repair, which requires, first of all, a careful attitude to the circuit of a computer mouse.

The first question I want to ask is: “Why repair a mouse, because nowadays it’s easy to buy a new one, rather than spend time repairing an old one?” At the same time, a number of PC users will not agree with this, there are very convenient items that you get used to, and there are other reasons why there is no desire to part with a thing. It is proposed to give the mouse a second life.

The mouse is one of the most frequently used peripherals, and as a result, various problems appear. The main problems in the operation of a mouse for a computer (laptop): the operating system does not detect the device; buttons don't work well the scroll wheel moves jerkily.

A significant number of problems are associated with contamination penetrating the device case and mechanical wear.

First step. Disassembly of a computer mouse.

Unscrew the screw located at the bottom of the case. In the design under consideration, the screw is located under the silicone plate, in some cases - under the paper stickers. (Fig. 1)

With the tip of a screwdriver, remove the edge of the plate and peel it off, taking it to the side. In the case of the paper version, we pierce it. (Fig.2)

Carefully remove the upper part of the case from the grooves.

On fig. 3 arrows indicate individual elements that are most exposed to wear, which is why the mouse does not work well. Basically, the USB cable at the entrance to the case and the microswitches fail.

Second step. Troubleshooting computer mouse problems.

• Troubleshooting when the scroll wheel moves jerkily. That is, when the mouse moves, the cursor stands still, moves intermittently, and in order for it to move, it is necessary to move the mouse several times.

The main reason for this problem is that the USB cable at the entrance to the mouse body is broken due to repeated bending of the wire. In order to troubleshoot
use a knife or scissors to cut off the damaged section of the USB cable, for example, as indicated by the dotted line in fig. 4.

For ease of operation, the board is removed from the case, for which it is necessary to bend two latches that fix it. Then the upper insulation of the cable is removed and the ends of the cores are cleaned. In the presence of a soldering iron, we service the ends of the cores. (Figure 5)

Next, by twisting, we connect the veins of the ends of the USB cable in pairs according to the color, and if you have a soldering iron, you can solder them. All joints must be covered with insulating material, and then laid in a large twist in one line. (Figure 6)

For insulation, we use, for example, heat shrink, which is previously put on the ends of the cores, it turns out more accurately, but not fundamentally, since aesthetics will be closed by the body. (Fig. 7)

If you have soldering experience, it is also necessary to strip the damaged section of the USB cable, then it is tinned and soldered from the side of the tracks for the connector.When soldering, it is necessary to observe the sequence of colors of the cores. (Fig. 8)

• Troubleshooting poor button operation, i.e. to perform any function, you need to click the left mouse button several times, or double-clicking occurs with one click. The reason is the microswitch, which is pressed by the left key.

In this case, you can not do without a soldering iron. It is required to solder the microswitches of the left mouse button and the "scroll wheel" and swap them. The “wheel” functionality is mainly used only for scrolling through pages, and as an additional button it is extremely rare. Therefore, this microswitch can be installed instead of a worn one.

Soldering the microswitch is easy, despite the fact that it has three outputs.

With the end of the soldering iron rod (sting), we simultaneously touch the middle and any of the extreme conclusions, while trying to lift the edge with a finger, but not exert strong pressure. (Fig. 9)

Then the opposite side of the microswitch is soldered, similarly it rises and two terminals are heated with a sting. (Fig. 10)

In case of an unsuccessful attempt to remove the microswitch from the board, the desoldering procedure is repeated, i.e. first one side is soldered, then the other. When removing both microswitches, we swap them and solder them.

Often situations arise when some part of the solder remains in the hole where the contact of the radio component is inserted. (Fig. 11)

If necessary, to resolve this problem, proceed as follows. A regular needle is used, or a needle from a disposable syringe, which is inserted into the hole from the side of the radio components, and from the side of the tracks, this hole must be heated with a soldering iron. Warming up the solder will allow the needle to enter the hole, which will force it out.

Reminder. To restore the effective operation of the mouse, it is necessary to clean the optical system, the scroll wheel and, of course, the case from dust.

At the end, we assemble the repaired mouse in the reverse order and enjoy its work. Good luck to all!