DIY pvc kayak repair

The casing made of rubberized fabric can be glued - glued to it along the nearest stringers and from the outside along the keelson strip (lei) along the entire length. Strips 7 centimeters wide must be cut from rubberized fabric.

For the passage of rivers with rapids, it is better to make leis from thick rubber, for example, from a KAMAZ camera. You need to glue it with rubber or other glue that does not break after drying (for example, "Moment"). To reduce the weight of the kayak during water-hiking trips at home, it is recommended to leave the plywood seats and the steering wheel, and change the shell to a smaller one made of PVC. In addition, you should know that Taimen-3 is more advantageous by weight than a two-seater, since each passenger has less weight in the kayak. In a single pack, the backpack can be completely packed with the entire kayak. If, when disassembling or assembling the kayak, significant physical strength is required (using an ax, hammer, chisel), then this means that this process is carried out incorrectly or the frame (parts) is deformed.

Each part to be joined (keelson, bulwark, stringers) at the point and during disconnection (connection) must not have a bend. Having bought a kayak and having found that the parts to be connected are bent at the point (place) of the connection, it is necessary to straighten this place BEFORE ASSEMBLY, and not with a hammer or an ax, but on the knee (extremely gently!), Having connected both parts first. An exception is the disconnection of the stringers' latches during disassembly of the floating craft; they can become clogged after a long journey. In such a situation, it is impossible to move it by grasping the latch pin with two fingers. But this is easily done if you use the rocker from the kayak tiller, in which there are two holes (designed for ropes to the pedals), having a diameter that is equal to the thickness of the handle (pin) of the latch.

When the kayak is assembled after a cool night, the PVC skin (shell) must be heated in the sun before assembling, otherwise it may tear or break the frame when “putting on”. All products and things that get wet must be packed in a sealed package and placed in the cargo compartment of the ship so that they do not fall out during the overturn (averkila) - and things will remain intact and, most importantly, the kayak will not sink. For these purposes, it is recommended to use only cylindrical sealed packaging, they are well suited for the cargo compartment - for example, two to eighty liters for clothes, as well as a tent placed in a sleeping mat and other rugs.

First, it is necessary to put two of the largest cylinders longitudinally into the cargo compartment, and then, while sealing them with a tent, open them (move them apart) so that the sealed packages fit under the deck behind the bulwarks. Extremely comfortable on top - a pair of safety (with metal hooks at the ends) Chinese rubber bands. Under them (without taking off), you can shove boots, a wind jacket, a camera, a guitar, etc. while traveling.

When passing difficult routes, products in cans, bottles and other sealed packages are best packed in some boxes (or cardboard boxes in plastic bags), which is very convenient when unloading and loading on the water and using this container in the parking lot as a table. Hermetic packaging for food is usually pet-bottles and paper containers from dairy products; they can be burned with wooden crates after a hike. It is only necessary to glue the holes in the bottom during the trip if you are tired of scooping up the water, otherwise you can accidentally ruin your rest.The speed of movement of the watercraft does not depend on the frequency and strength of rowing, but on its continuity.

It is also necessary to use the force of the current correctly (to be able to “walk in the stream”). The maximum speed of the standard "Taimen-3" (with a glued bottom) down the river, which has a weak current, reaches 13 kilometers / hour, and if rowing in a normal rhythm - 8 kilometers / hour. The maximum speed of "Taimen-2" is lower than that of a three-seat one, and if the skin (shell) is made of PVC, on the contrary, it is higher than that of the factory one. A laden kayak is more difficult to turn over in the water as the center of gravity is lower than the physical center of the boat. Therefore, the crew is recommended to arrange the seat as low as possible (do not sit on backpacks). Launching and loading a laden kayak on the shore is easier than loading it on the water. The same applies to unloading. Sometimes it is easier to clear the obstacles without unloading the vessel.

Six people can easily carry a laden kayak, holding it by the bow, stern and bulwarks. The higher the speed of the kayak in the threshold, the stronger the blow will be when landing on the stones, and the larger the hole in the bottom. Therefore, when passing shallow rapids, it is recommended to paddle (paddle back), reducing by these actions the speed of the kayak relative to the shore. Passing obstacles in this way is called "passing at negative speed" (in relation to the water), it requires special skill and training. For example, if during such a movement the stern is submerged in the water more than the bow (for example, the captain of the ship dropped the sailor and alone passes the threshold), then the river current will turn the kayak stern forward all the time. In such a situation, you need to either move at a positive speed, or the captain must transfer to the center of the kayak (load its nose).

The factory cotter pins (with holes) that connect the parts of the keelson of the kayak must be tied to the keelson, otherwise they will be lost in the grass during anchorage when the boat is turned upside down. When the boat is disassembled and packed, it is best to store the cotter pins (or bolts and nuts) in the factory holes, while properly securing them. In the case of repairs during a hike, one ax is used as an anvil, and the other as a hammer. This is necessary for working with metal parts, for example, to lengthen old deformed aluminum rivets, as well as for the riveting itself. In order to replace a rivet in field conditions, you can remove it from secondary parts (for example, seats) or replace them with bolts, nuts and even nails (which is worse), for which you need to bend the sharp end.

For the correct assembly of the repair kit, you need to know that all damaged rivets can be replaced with bolts with a diameter of 4 mm and a length of 25-45 mm (with a nut). Steel rivets with aluminum buttons at the end of the pins may be replaced with similar rivets (of the indicated sizes) with buttons ripped off the stern keelson (they can be knocked out with a nail) intended for the tiller pedal pad, or screws with a head of the required diameter. After the rivets are replaced, all the bolts can be riveted on the nut, then the nut will not be unscrewed in the future. Lost hinges (cotter pins) are replaced with bolts 5-6 mm in diameter and 30-40 mm in length (with a nut).

Carrying out repairs at home, rivets for fastening to the keelson of the frames can be borrowed from the old frames of the Salyut boat, and in the conditions of the hike, they can be temporarily replaced with screws of the required diameter. After completing the hike, you need to thoroughly dry the shell as soon as possible (for example, on the balcony for 3-4 days), especially if the top of the shell is made of tarpaulin. Otherwise, by the next season, it will rot. After traveling to the sea, the frame must be washed in fresh water, otherwise the salt will “eat” it a year.

The popular and well-proven rubberized fabric is a thing of the past.It was replaced by more durable, lightweight and beautiful modern materials, usually based on PVC. That would be all good, but they, alas, have their own specific disadvantages. And, of course, they also have their own ultimate strength. And the bottom of a kayak or a balloon of a catamaran, punctured during a hike in deserted places, can cause a lot of trouble. Of course, the instructions for the glue and, in fact, for the craft itself, provide recommendations for gluing, but here we want to tell you how to carry out a simple and effective repair in the field.

When going on a hike, of course, you need to take a repair kit with you. However, acetone is not included in the standard factory set. And without it, you can't make a good gluing. And often a piece of PVC fabric for repairs may also be missing. Of course, specialized stores for tourists sell PVC pieces of various densities and colors, and special glue. But if you live away from these shops, then it's okay. Any household store sells acetone and urethane PVC glues. Among household adhesives, the most common are "Uranus" and "Moment-crystal". If there are no pieces of PVC to repair, banner ad fabric works well. So, your repair kit must include pieces of fabric, glue and acetone. Brush and dry, preferably a bike rag. A "gypsy" needle, an awl and a strong nylon thread, or better a lavsan thread, will also not interfere - the damage can be significant, and in this case it should be sewn up before gluing. It is better to place the repair kit in an airtight container. Do not forget the repair kit at home!

So it did happen. Water enters the kayak (deflates the balloon of the catamaran), it is necessary to be repaired and continue the route. But here's the bad luck - the instructions for the glue say that you have to wait a day, and time does not wait ...

For many years in our country imported collapsible kayaks (for example, manufactured in the German Democratic Republic "Kolibri-3" and "RZ-85), the shells of which, made" without seams ", are covered with polyvinyl chloride, have been on sale and are being operated. Obviously, it makes sense to take a closer look at the advantages and disadvantages of such casings, the peculiarities of caring for them and, in particular, the main methods. kayak shell repair.

From the point of view of a chemist, polyvinyl chloride (hereinafter - PVC) is a product of polymerization of vinyl chloride with the addition of plasticizers that provide plasticity - the ability to irreversible deformation, and stabilizers. Such material is resistant to the action of acids, gasoline, alcohols and any active substances that may be present in polluted water, as well as to the influence of any atmospheric factors, including the action of the sun, and a temperature rise of up to 60 ° C (only when heated above 150-180 ° Decomposes with PVC).

A PVC casing on a fabric base is no less durable than a rubberized fabric, but more durable and more practical. The PVC layer does not rip up like rubber on small irregularities, but as if slides over them, so the first damage to the shell usually does not appear soon.

The owner of a vessel with such a shell will find it useful to know that PVC is soluble in dichloroethane, methyl ethyl ketone, cyclohexanone, and swells in benzene and toluene. This information can be useful for repairs.

At temperatures around 0 ° C and below, the shell acquires increased rigidity, and at temperatures below minus 15 ° C it can break, but under normal swimming conditions, it can be considered that lowering the water temperature is even beneficial: the colder the water, the stronger the shell. In warm water (when you have to swim in hot regions of the country), the shell stretches a little and even shifts somewhat relative to the kayak set. This must be taken into account when applying protectors, that is, make them wider, with a margin.

PVC sheaths are generally lighter than rubberized fabrics. However, precisely because of the small thickness of the PVC layer, abrasions appear on the outer side of the shell, sometimes up to the protrusion of the fabric base.In such places, the fabric begins to vigorously absorb water and melts under the layers of PVC. To avoid premature failure of the shell, it is recommended, without waiting for the appearance of abrasion, to apply protectors - protective strips along the keelson, stringers, as well as along the frames.

Bonding the PVC shell of the kayak. You can glue the protector, apply or even glue a new shell using adhesives.

Solvent-based PVC adhesives can be used, and in particular:

2) cyclohexanone (90%) with cyclohexanol (10%);

3) cyclohexanone (70-80%) with PVC scraps (20-30%);

4) cyclohexanone (80-90%) with perchlorovinyl resin (10-20%).

Of the industrially produced adhesives, this group includes Ts-1 and "Viniks".

The gluing method is fundamentally simple: dried and clean surfaces are greased with glue and pressed against each other with a force of 1-2 kg / cm². The pressure cannot be relieved for 12-24 hours (depending on temperature). Bonding according to recipes 1-3 provides a monolithic strong seam; glue according to recipe 4, as well as "Viniks" and Ts-1 give a less strong bond.

The duration of the gluing processes and the unpleasant smell of the solvent make this process inconvenient at home, and the need for thorough drying before gluing practically limits the possibility of using these adhesives during repairs on a hike.

Much easier is the option with the use of universal, non-specific adhesives, of which glue 88 is best known. In this case, patches can be cut out not only from PVC, but also from other flexible material. Gluing is performed after double coating of surfaces with drying of each layer of glue. However, practice shows that this option is good mainly for emergency situations: the stickers do not last very long, and re-gluing for a new repair requires lengthy work to clean up the old glue.

PVC welding. When heated to 130-150 ° C, the material softens and can be welded. The best welding method - hot air - is applicable, for obvious reasons, only in a workshop or at home. An air blower (for example, a vacuum cleaner), a device for heating the air to 170-180 ° C (for example, a tubular heating furnace with 1.5-2 kW electrical power) and a hose with a nozzle are required.

An electric heater is a copper or duralumin tube insulated from the outside with a diameter of 30-32 mm with a 1.5-2 kW nichrome spiral (for example, two spirals from an 800 W electric iron, connected in parallel).

By adjusting the air supply and voltage on the spirals, you can achieve the required temperature. Hot air is directed between the surfaces to be bonded and, as it warms up, gradually join and compress them. You need to work with thick, windproof gloves and glasses. After gradual cooling, a monolithic seam of high strength is obtained. The productivity of this method at home is 10 or more meters of a 50 mm wide tread per hour.

Another welding method is based on the use of a welding soldering iron. You can use a 250-300 W electric soldering iron with an attached flat tip 50-60 mm wide. In field conditions, this role is assigned to the usual small hatchet or similar copper tool. The blade of the hatchet must be sharpened in a straight line. Heating is carried out in a fire (of course, you can use a stove or a gas burner) with samples on a piece of PVC: the material should melt, but not decompose with the release of smoke. A heated soldering iron is placed between the patch and the shell and as the material warms up, slowly move it along the joint, immediately pressing the heated patch to the shell. As a rule, the patch heats up more than the base material - this is as it should be. With one heating on a fire, it is possible to weld a protector with a width of 50-60 mm and a length of up to 40-50 cm.

This method of repairing the kayak shell is applicable in field conditions.Drying of the casing is not necessary, since water from the surface evaporates when the material comes into contact with a heated tool. No particularly thorough cleaning is required; it is enough to remove grease stains by washing with soap.

Material for protector and patches. If you find even minor damage to the shell of the kayak during the hike, you must immediately put a temporary patch to prevent the penetration of moisture into the material. To do this, it is convenient to use sticky PVC tape used as electrical insulation, sticky polyethylene tape or even an adhesive plaster. With such a temporary patch, as a rule, you can continue the hike until a large halt, and sometimes until the end of the vacation.

Any flexible PVC with a thickness of 1-2 mm is suitable for protectors and large patches. Excellent results are obtained with hoses for watering gardens or "stockings" of electrical insulation with a diameter of about 20 mm, which are cut lengthwise and straightened under the influence of heat during welding. PVC tablecloths also serve well in emergencies. The edges of the protectors and patches supplied must be smoothed out with a heated tool.

Large tears of the shell must be pulled together with threads before welding the patch. The through holes must be closed on both sides, but first you must ensure that there is no moisture left in the base cord; this is achieved by drying for one to two days in the sun or three to five days at home. Place a temporary patch of adhesive tape on the inside until it dries.

Restoration of worn out places. Welding or applying patches to bare cord areas is difficult. First of all, it is necessary to restore the PVC layer on the cord by applying a paste of approximately the following composition: cyclohexanone 60% and soft PVC in small pieces 40%. The dissolution of PVC lasts 3-6 weeks with periodic shaking, which means that it is necessary to prepare the paste in advance (especially since it remains quietly for a long time in an airtight vessel and in the dark). The paste is applied in an even and thin layer to the dried damaged area and dried for at least 12 hours; then the second, and, if necessary, the third layer is applied. After final drying, patches and protectors can be glued on and welded onto the repaired area.

It is also useful to apply the same paste to the overhanging cord for final repairs of through holes, as well as for smoothing corners around the edges of patches and protectors.

Storage and care. Both high humidity, which can lead to fungal infections on the deck fabric, and excessive dryness and high temperatures should be avoided. It is undesirable to store the casing near heating devices, as well as in rooms in which frequent and sudden temperature changes occur, accompanied by moisture condensation.

If the shell lies in an unheated room in winter (especially in the cold), its complete immobility must be ensured, since any bending of PVC under these conditions can cause the material to break.

In any case, for long-term storage, do not roll up the casing with sharp kinks and in a very tight bag. Dusting with talcum powder is optional.

Before the first assembly of the kayak after winter or after its purchase, it is recommended to keep the shell at temperatures up to 30 ° C in the hot sun for two to three hours, or in a normal living room for one week. This simple operation will restore the casing the softness it lost during storage.

When putting on the shell, before unclamping the bow and stern set, soft pads should be placed under the places where the ends of the middle sections of the keelson stop (for example, just throw the storm jacket); it is important to avoid damaging the sheath. At the bottom of the assembled kayak, it is useful to place a mat made of PVC material, which to some extent protects the shell from abrasion by particles of dirt, sand, etc.

The available experience allows us to assert that kayaks with PVC shells are no more difficult to repair than kayaks with rubber shells, and they are damaged much less often in the presence of protectors. We have been convinced more than once that the PVC casing passes without "complications" where protectors and patches are torn off the rubberized casings. Even in the desperately dry year 1972, after the cruise along the Kola Peninsula, our RZ-85 did not require repair.

V. N. Melnikov, "Boats and Yachts", 1973

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Hello to all subscribers and those who accidentally looked here. Who does not know, then this is the third part of assembling our kayaks on which we covered a distance of 2500 km in the summer of 2017. For those who want to see how the kayaks behave on the water, at the end of the post there will be a link to our trip.

30. Begin skinning and skin shaping. For each kayak, we had two pieces of PVC fabric measuring 5x2 meters. In advance, each piece was cut into four parts: 0.5x2 m, 0.2x4.5 m, 0.8x4.5 m and 1x4.5 m. The largest piece went to the lower part, to the upper piece 80 cm wide, a piece wide 20 cm was glued for reinforcement in the center of the bottom. The remaining piece will be used to form pockets and flaps, but more on that later.

31. Due to the fact that the piece of fabric has a strictly rectangular shape, it was not possible to avoid the presence of folds along the sides. We believe that these folds will not greatly affect the overall ride performance of the kayaks.

32. Actually the folds themselves.

33. Cut the fabric along the stem for molding the skin and overlapping gluing.

34. The upper part of the hide is laid. Fastened to the frames at the hatch points. After that, trims were made to size and sizing began.

35. “Desmokol” glue and an unknown hardener were used. Glue is a different story altogether. After reading a bunch of forums and asking for advice from everyone we could, we started looking. And you know what? There is nothing in our town! Well that is there is no specialized glue for PVC fabric in chain stores. But after spending about half a day searching, we managed to go to a workshop that repairs PVC boats. Where the glue was purchased together with a hardener in the amount of 3 liters. By the way, the deal was made in the city by agreement and the glue was in ordinary containers without labels, so the name may not be the same as the glue itself. And in general, all this action was more like buying some kind of prohibited explosives. But as practice has shown, he glues tightly. Glued as follows - glue is applied to both surfaces, which we leave for 10 minutes. Then there is heating with a building hair dryer and gluing the surfaces with a hard roller.

36. Actually, all the flaws of the first experience.

37. We apologize for the quality of the photo, but for the lack of others, we expose this. The pins were glued by overlapping fabric strips overlapping each other.

39. Actually a general view of our Sirens! But still no pockets.

40. Bulwark devices. It is planned to bend under the protruding part of the "skirt"

41. And here you can see that the hatches have different shapes. All due to the fact that, with a height of 192 cm, it is very problematic to insert your legs into the hatch on a distant kayak, to be honest, even with an increase of 180 cm, this is also not so easy.

42. For a more even tension on the upper part of the hide, a wedge was cut out and glued with a patch.

43. The first variant of the arrangement of pockets for accessing things, but running ahead I will say that the second variant is much more convenient, practical and easier to manufacture. These pockets will be closed with a lacing, and the top will be covered with a flap.

44. Actually the lacing itself.

45. And here is the second version of the pocket, and in our general opinion, it is more successful.

46. ​​This is how the pocket flap is implemented. The blue strip is an ordinary Velcro that was glued to the same unknown glue.

Nobody ever expects trouble, they come out of the blue. This is especially inconvenient if you have gone or are going on a hike.

Regardless of what happened or failed, the materials at hand and the necessary tools for quick repairs (for example, glue, aluminum sheet, etc.) cannot always be found on a hike. Water tourism enthusiasts also face various kinds of equipment breakdowns. In this article we will tell you how to quickly and inexpensively repair an inflatable kayak on your own.

An inflatable kayak is a rather fragile thing that requires special conditions during the non-operational period. Therefore, if you see cuts, holes, punctures and other damage on the kayak, do not be surprised or upset. Such "wounds" of the kayak are very easy to heal.

To do this, you will need such improvised means that are in the arsenal of any owner and hostess:

- scissors;
- hairdryer;
- pencil;
- 646th solvent;
- a roller or plate made of metal;
- a repair kit that is included in the kayak sales kit.

To save the kayak from puncture or burn-through, you must:

1. Cut an oval patch from the fabric included in the repair kit. The length of the patch should be 4 cm longer than the length of the cut.

2. Degrease the damaged surface of the kayak and the patch with solvent.

3. On the surface of the kayak, trace the borders of the patch with a pencil.

4. Apply glue to both surfaces for the first time and leave for 10-15 minutes.

5. Reapply the adhesive and after 5 minutes heat the patch and the affected surface with a hairdryer.

6. Gently glue the surfaces together and leave to dry for 24 hours.

Repair of torn holes and cuts on the bottom of the kayak is carried out using the same tools and similar methods. The difference is that when curing a kayak from holes, you need to put two patches - outside and inside the kayak.

The cut on the bottom of the kayak can be easily removed if, before gluing, the patches with the PVC material of the kayak are additionally stitched. As with repairing holes, repairing a cut requires two patches - an external and an internal one.

It is easier to repair the PVC fabric cover of a kayak in field conditions than it might seem at first glance. You will need:

• Any polyurethane glue ("Uranus", "Cross", "Moment-Kristall", etc.)
• Sandpaper
• Degreaser or thinner (gasoline, acetone, or whatever)
• A piece of PVC fabric on a patch

So, what needs to be done to seal the detected hole? Let's give the order of actions in the form of a list:

• The area around the damage must be wiped dry and dried, cleaned of dirt.
• Cut out a patch from the prepared PVC repair fabric, taking into account that it should protrude beyond the damaged area by 20 mm on each side.
• Then the place where the patch should be glued, and the patch itself must be carefully processed with sandpaper - this is necessary for better contact when gluing. If you do not have sandpaper, then this item can be omitted, but it is better, after all, to sand the surface.
• Thoroughly degrease the surfaces to be glued with a solvent.
• Apply glue to the glued surfaces in a uniform, not very thick and not very thin layer and wait 3-5 minutes.
• Press the patch tightly and strongly to the damaged area of ​​the shell, it is even desirable to "roll" it with your finger.

Everything! If the patch within 30 minutes after gluing does not express a desire to fall off, then you can continue the journey.

However, if you have the time and the opportunity, then in order to glue the patch as securely as possible, you can do the following:

Immediately after you have pressed the patch to the shell, you can put on it for a minute, for example, a kettle with hot water (not boiling water), or a heated stone. It is better to do this through one layer of cloth or paper. Then wait an hour, and be sure - your patch is literally glued tightly. At home, it is better to use a hairdryer or iron for this.A hairdryer needs to warm up the surfaces to be glued before gluing, when they are already smeared with glue.

By the way, here you can still say a few words about drying before repairing a wet surface in cold rainy weather, when there is not a single dry thing among your clothes that can be wiped off the shell, and the air is too humid and cold for it to dry itself.

Opening hours: Weekdays from 09-00 to 20-00, Saturday from 10 to 14, Sun and holidays - closed.

When repairing fabrics with PVC and polyurethane coating, it is recommended to use polyurethane (PU) glue ("Moment-crystal", "Urethane", "Uranus", "Kontur" and similar). A good result is obtained by PU glue produced for light industry. Repair kits of the Volny Veter company are completed with Moment-crystal glue.

Typical Field Repair Sequence:

1. 1. Remove dirt and dry the bonding surfaces.
2. 2. Degrease.
3. 3. Apply adhesive evenly on both surfaces.
4. 4. Let the glue dry, as it is highly not recommended to glue it with "wet" polyurethane glue. Basically, five minutes are enough. To check the readiness, you can lightly touch your finger - your finger should not stick.
5. 5. Connect the parts to be glued with the clamp. The main point is the squeezing force of the surfaces. And since it is difficult to apply force over the entire area, we recommend placing the gluing site on a flat hard surface and, without fanaticism, tap it with a hammer or the butt of an ax. For long cuts on the outer casing, sew the edges first with threads.

The photo shows a standard repair kit (except for the hammer), which is used in kayaks and catamarans.

Here is a summary of the process of gluing soft boat (kayak) PVC with PVC.

Used only urethane glue. For other glue, these methods may not work.

Read an overview of PVC adhesives in my previous post.

1. Preparation of the gluing site.

1.1. Clean the bonding areas of dirt with water and, if necessary, with a rag.

1.3. Treat both surfaces with a fine-grained sandpaper (without fanaticism).

1.4. If the cut or tear in the tissue is more than a centimeter, it must be sewn up with nylon thread. And glue, if possible, on both sides - from the inside and then from the outside.

1.5. Degrease with: acetone, ethyl acetate, solvent 646. (without fanaticism) because if you rub it for a long time, PVC dissolves and rolls into pellets. It is imperative to remove the spools - the surfaces must be clean.

2.1. Cold method . (glue in accordance with the instructions of the glue manufacturer). I am writing a kind of universal way.

2.1.1. Apply a thin layer of glue to both parts to be glued (it is convenient to use a plastic card to level the layer).

2.1.2. Wait until the glue starts to dry.

2.1.3. Press the surfaces to be glued tightly against each other.

2.1.4. Roll glued with maximum force with a pressure roller, rolling pin, bearing, meat grinder handle, furniture wheel with attached handle, etc. to remove air and excess glue. The force applied is important, not the duration. You need to put something like a board, kayak seats or something like that underneath.

2.2. Hot method . (glue in accordance with the instructions of the glue manufacturer). I am writing a kind of universal way.

2.2.1. Apply a thin layer of glue to both parts to be glued (it is convenient to use a plastic card to level the layer).

2.2.2. Wait until the glue stops sticking to your fingers.

2.2.3. Apply a second thin layer of glue to both glued surfaces (it is convenient to use a plastic card to level the layer).

2.2.4. Using a hair dryer, heat the adhesive layer to a temperature of 50-60 degrees. In nature, you can put a mug of hot tea on top, a stone warmed up in a fire, etc. In extreme cases, it is possible to warm it up with a lighter, but there is a risk that the glue will catch fire and will not glue well.

2.2.5. Press the surfaces to be glued tightly against each other.

2.2.6.Roll glued with maximum force by a pressure roller, rolling pin, bearing, grinder handle, furniture wheel with attached handle, ball from a large ball bearing, etc. to remove air and excess glue. The force applied is important, not the duration. You need to put something like a board, kayak seats or something like that underneath.

To repair the kayak in field conditions, a repair kit is completed, consisting of shell repair tools and frame repair tools.

Means for repairing the shell must be carried on each vessel, the means for repairing the frame are usually stored centrally, in a single repair kit for the whole group, except for those cases when the group has kayaks with a wooden and metal frame, in these cases, the means for repairing the frame also have to be separated.

To repair the shell, you need nylon threads, sewing needles, an awl, scissors, coarse sandpaper (waterproof) or a whetstone, gasoline, rubber glue, pieces of thin rubber and rubberized fabric (the same as on the shell), small pieces of tread. To repair the shell of a PVC-coated fabric, no gasoline or a means of stripping the material is required, respectively, the glue and the material for the repair are replaced (kayak shells made of PVC-coated fabric are glued with urethane adhesives of various brands ["Uranus", etc.], the damaged area on the shell and the patch are degreased with a rag soaked in acetone. In field conditions, thermal tape used to seal the seams can be used to repair minor damage to the boat shell - note from the author of the website). Small cuts and breaks in the shell, especially those that have arisen under the frame elements, can be temporarily plugged with a rag (until a halt). Large cuts and breakouts will need to be repaired immediately. Holes up to 30 mm long do not need to be sewn up, more than 30 mm can be sewn up first and then glued. To repair the shell, the kayak is unloaded and laid upside down on the bank to dry the place being repaired.

To speed up drying, the area to be repaired must be wiped with a cloth inside and out. It is best to dry in the sun, but if the weather is cloudy or rainy, you will have to dry it under an awning with a firebrand, a burning candle or a burning piece of plexiglass. The heat source is brought to the place to be repaired by 40-50 mm and blow through it in the direction of the place to be repaired, directing hot air towards it. Dry directly by fire, bringing it very close, is dangerous for the shell. After drying both the coating of the shell and the protruding fibers of the base fabric, outline the borders of the patch, cut the patch and clean it and the place to be repaired until velvet black.

The presence in the repair kit of previously cleaned patches, smeared with rubber glue, covered with plastic wrap and rolled into a roll, will speed up the repair. After stripping, the rupture of the shell is sutured with a tightening seam with 8-10 mm long stitches symmetrical about the rupture line. It is convenient to sew up together - one from the inside, the other from the outside, while the kayak stands on its side. If the break is on a stringer or frame, it may be necessary to remove this frame element. After stitching, the repaired places and the patch are degreased with gasoline, lubricated with a thin layer of rubber glue, after it dries, they are lubricated again and after the secondary drying, the patch is pressed against the shell and smoothed so that there are no bubbles and wrinkles. All tears in the casing must be sealed from the inside and outside. If an internal patch cannot be applied during the field, it must be applied upon return home. If a break in the shell turned out to be under and together with the protector, it is necessary to remove a piece of the protector, sew up the gap, apply a patch and glue a new piece of protector on top, observing the rules for joining the ends indicated above. In sunny weather, all gluing operations are best done in the shade.

We carry out repairs within the framework of our technical capabilities.
We only repair boats purchased from us.
The types of work are listed in the tuning section.
Estimation of the cost of repair is made approximately on the basis of a detailed description of the damage, and more precisely when inspecting the product.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR SELF REPAIR.

I. INSTRUCTIONS AND TIPS FOR WORKING WITH PVC GLUE

II. REPAIR OF CYLINDERS FROM FABRIC WITH POLYURETHANE IMPREGNATION and FROM POLYAMIDE FILM.
REPAIR OF PVC FABRICS.

If you need to repair your boat or get spare parts, here are workshop addresses and repair tips.

And if you yourself are engaged in the repair of alloy products, fill out this form:

and we will post information about your company.
We post it for free.

Skins for "TIMEN"
PVC covers for Taimen kayaks. Suitable for old frame

Cylinders for catamarans from OKG "Splav"
The cylinders are made from the Viniplan boat material with a density of 850 to 1200 g / m2, economy versions of some models from the Unisol material (950-1100 g / m2) in different colors, with different options for attachment to the frame.

RAFTMASTER: service and facilities
repair and modification of boats, catamarans and rafts

Repair of kayaks FMK
FMK workshop repairs kayaks "Marinka", "Asya", "Pasha".

Spare parts for Triton
spare parts for Triton boats at the Vengrov Agency

Repair Tips
In case of minor damage to the “skin”, it is enough to apply a patch to the place of damage, observing simple but strict requirements

Casings for frame kayaks Salute and Taimen
new skins, kayak packaging, seat pads, skins

The kayak is formed as a result of a bizarre combination of three substances, the physical, chemical and moral properties of which are not fully understood. They can only be roughly indicated by analogy with materials found outside the hike: rubberized fabric, plastic, metal, wood. As you can see, there are no less kayaking substances than those that make up a person (for details, we refer the reader to Aristotle). Therefore, like a person, a kayak has a runny nose, and sciatica, and (pah-pah-pah!) Fractures, and all sorts of household injuries. That is why, when going on a hike, you should also think about a kayak first aid kit, a repair kit.

The repair kit must contain everything to maintain the substances listed above in their original form or return them to it. First of all, you should think about the rubberized or plastic shell of your boat, about the “skin”, as it is called in common parlance.

Oh, this is a subject worthy of care, tenderness, and attention! Because the “skin” is the most vulnerable part of the kayak, because it separates the kayaker from the surrounding, often hostile environment and selflessly takes on almost all kinds of blows from a windy tourist destiny. At the same time, the kayaker always remembers that if seven skins can be removed from any person, even from the Admiral, then the kayak has only one “skin”. That is why, already somewhere in the middle of the hike, a real kayaker begins to feel the kayak “skin” as his own, and if in the evening, looking at the blinking embers of the fire, he says with concern: “Something has stabbed my left side today ...” - do not rush to call the Doctor, but go together with your colleague to inspect the appropriate place of his "sick" ship.

As a rule, the “skin” is most often damaged where it adjoins the longitudinal elements of the kayak set - stringers. Therefore, the kayak aksakals recommend to glue the “skin” along the indicated places with rubber strips before starting the hike. And we can only bow before the wise greatness of this advice. It can be added that during the hike, you should check the condition of the kayak bottom every night, and during the day you should spare no time for its preventive repair.

In case of light damage to the "skin" (non-penetrating wounds, as the Expeditionary Doctor would put it), it is enough to apply a patch at the place of damage, observing the simple but strict requirements of rubber-adhesive science. In case of through punctures, patches should be placed on both sides of the "skin". And finally (let it be said not about the reader's kayak), seams should be put on the breaks of the “skin” before gluing.

All of the above determines the first mandatory ingredients of the repair kit: a) rubber for patches; b) rubber glue; c) sandpaper for cleaning the operating field; d) gasoline for its sterilization; e) the threads are harsh (preferably very harsh); f) a needle with the name of an unknown etymology - “gypsy”; g) thimble; h) scissors.

It is hardly worth reminding that the presence of each of the items on this list in the repair kit is strictly required. The lack of thread will force you to dissolve the pale blue zhenish sweater, and the absence of scissors will force you to cut out patches with an antique Zollingen razor, begged from the Admiral at the cost of humiliation and flattery.

The metal parts of the kayak wear less than its shell. Nevertheless, facts are known when a purposeful kayaker, unmistakably choosing the only unsuitable place on a wide fairway, turned the metal structures of the kayak into something, to describe which the expression “roll into a ram's horn” should be used only with the obligatory addition “to put it mildly”.

The repair of the metal parts of the kayak does not present any particular difficulties. Broken frames are replaced with new ones made from suitable blanks on a pipe bending machine. Lost stringer locks cost nothing to re-grind on a lathe. And you quickly make the rest of the parts on a milling machine.

However, since they are unlikely to be in a camping repair kit, they should be replaced with other tools, such as: i) a sharp folding knife with an awl and a screwdriver (it is also possible with a corkscrew); j) a small hammer; l) file; m) a hacksaw blade; n) pliers; o) tweezers; n) a few pieces of thick aluminum wire for rivets; p) several screws with nuts МЗ and М4; c) glue BF-2, PVA or "Supercement" (options are possible); r) a reasonable number of nails of various diameters and lengths, ranging from shoe nails to those that can be used to create a hook for a shark if desired; y) everything else that did not fall under the heading "a" - "t".

And, of course, ropes of various types and lengths. We believe that Osip is from Gogol's "Inspector General" who exclaimed: "And the rope will come in handy on the road!" - undoubtedly belonged to the cohort of kayakers of the first half of the 19th century. Because only a real kayaker knows the true value of the rope. The metal frame of the kayak is fastened with a rope when all other means for fastening it are broken or lost. The kayak is tied with a rope on the "snack" to the first bush that comes across (after ten minutes it turns out that the kayak is barely visible, and the bush floats in front of the ship and, it seems, even pulls it along). The rope is used to fasten the equipment and the kayak into one piece (see the section “Something about safety”). With a rope the caretaker is tying his birthmark - a grocery bag. It is with the help of a rope that marching sciatica is cured in the shortest possible time (see the section “Kayaker on the bulletin”).

And finally, the repair of the wooden parts of the kayak, which of all the kayak man-made options requires the least skill. Experience shows that the qualifications of a fifth-grade cabinetmaker are quite sufficient for the repair of the Salyut keelson.

If the newbie has absolutely no repair experience, then we will humbly advise him: in harsh field conditions, the fragments of duralumin tubes are most easily connected using planed wooden bushings or wooden linings of the appropriate shape (they are fastened to metal parts with wire, belt, cord or, in as a last resort, with an ordinary rope).

It will not hurt to cover the wooden parts of "Salut" with varnish or some other really water-repellent compound before the hike. The famous varnishing will probably protect the kayak tree and, for sure, the reputation of the kayak captain from getting wet.

If the repair of the kayak stands out in any way against the background of the sonorous everyday life of the campaign, it is the fact that it rapidly lifts the expeditionary Mechanic to the Elbrus heights. The Mechanic, who had previously languished in third roles, no longer gets confused, as before, under the feet of the expeditionary leadership - the Admiral, Zavkhoz, Doctor - but becomes a central figure and, therefore, somewhat mysterious. According to his abrupt and stern commands, all members of the expedition prepare an operating table - a clean, dry and even meadow, cover it with washed polyethylene, place a kayak on it, and then, sent by the order of the Mechanic's hands as far as possible, timidly stick their heads out from behind the bushes by following the Process.

All gone into contemplation of the "sick" kayak, the Mechanic describes circles around it, muttering specific terms under his breath and waving his arms like a shaman. These passes plunge the contemplators into a depressed and reverent state. The horror of the consciousness of the incorrigibility of what happened gradually overtakes everyone, and even the hero-Admiral in a broken voice asks:
- Is there anything you can do?
- You can always do something…. - Mysteriously replies the Mechanic.

The only person allowed into the operating room is Kostrova. Generally speaking, in the table of ranks, Kostrova is higher than the Mechanic, but here he fussy runs around the operating bed to the hysterical cries of the craftsman:
- Hammer! File! Nail! What are you dragging to me? You should have dragged your sword! Glue fast! How did the Doctor take it? What. To cover up scratches? Let him cover it up with saliva ... Yes, not his own, otherwise he will poison!

The doctor, from behind the bushes, is trying to galvanize his rapidly declining authority, giving advice:
- Do not glue with dirty hands - it will not hold! Wipe with iodine!

But the renovation is over. For checking, the kayak is placed on the water and then carefully and gradually loaded with luggage, carefully watching if fatal streams appear at the bottom. When, in the end, the Zavkhoz with a grocery bag is squeezed into the kayak and the bottom of the kayak remains dry like the sand of the Karakum Desert, the Mechanic again fades into the background in order to covertly wait in the wings.