DIY repair of a five-step vaz 2107

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a five-stage vaz 2107 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

To carry out work on disassembling the gearbox of a VAZ 2107 car, you will need fixing glue, an impact screwdriver, a three-grip puller, oil seals for the primary and secondary shafts, a set of gaskets, and a torque wrench.

Dismantling the gearbox VAZ 2107
1. Drain the oil from the gearbox (see "VAZ 2107 gearbox - checking the oil level and changing the oil").
2. Remove the gearbox from the VAZ 2107 car (see "VAZ 2107 gearbox - removal and installation").
3. We clean with a brush and rinse the outer surface of the gearbox with kerosene or white spirit.
4. Remove the release bearing clutch and the clutch release fork from the gearbox (see "VAZ 2107 clutch parts - removal and installation").
5. Disconnect the elastic coupling of the propeller shaft from the flange on the secondary shaft of the box (see "Driveline transmission of the car VAZ 2107 - disassembly and assembly").
6. Remove the flange of the elastic coupling from the secondary shaft of the gearbox (see "Oil seal of the secondary shaft of the VAZ 2107 - replacement").
7. Disconnect the support of the power unit with a cross member from the rear cover of the gearbox (see "Supports (pillows) of the power unit VAZ 2107 - replacement").
8. Remove the speedometer drive (see "VAZ 2107 speedometer drive - replacement").
9. Remove the reversing light switch (see "VAZ 2107 reversing light switch - check and replacement").
10. Remove the cuff from the ball joint of the gear lever.

11. Using a 10 mm wrench, unscrew the three nuts securing the gear lever housing to the rear crankcase cover.

12. Remove the lever housing and the gasket A under it from the studs.

Video (click to play).

13. Using a 13 mm socket wrench, unscrew the two nuts securing the bracket for the exhaust pipe of the exhaust system.

14. Remove the bracket and take out the square head bolt underneath.

15. Unscrew the five nuts securing the rear cover using the 13 mm socket and box wrenches.

16. Using a 10 mm socket wrench, unscrew the ten nuts securing the bottom cover.

17. Remove the cover and the gasket underneath.

18. Some nuts may come loose with the studs. In this case, after washing the threaded holes and studs with a solvent, apply fixing glue according to the instructions and install the studs in place.

19. Using a 13 mm wrench, unscrew the remaining rear cover retaining nut located inside the gearbox housing.

20. To facilitate the removal of the rear cover, use a screwdriver to recess the 1st and 2nd gear engagement rod. This engages second gear.

21. Tapping the gearbox cover with a hammer with a rubber or wooden striker along the perimeter of the mounting plane, disconnect the cover from the gearbox housing.

22. Remove the rear cover from the studs, and then, turning it clockwise, remove it from the gearbox housing. A gasket installed between the cover and the transmission housing may break. When assembling the gearbox, install a new gasket.

23. We remove from the back cover the plastic plug of the block of gears of the 5th gear and reverse gear, squeezing it out with a suitable tool through the hole in the bearing.

24. Using pliers, remove from the groove in the cover the thrust ring of the bearing of the block of gears of the 5th gear and reverse gear.

25. In order not to damage the rear cover, install it on two wooden blocks and press out the bearing of the gear block of the 5th gear and reverse gear with a hammer (through a mandrel of a suitable diameter).The inner ring of the bearing usually remains on the block shaft.

26. We take out the bearing of the gear block.

27. Remove the secondary shaft oil seal from the hole in the rear cover (see "Output shaft oil seal VAZ 2107 - replacement").
28. Take out the thrust washer of the inner ring of the rear bearing of the secondary shaft.

29. Press out the rear bearing of the gearbox output shaft with a mandrel of a suitable diameter and take it out.

30. Remove the inner ring of the rear bearing from the secondary shaft.

We assemble the bearing by tying its parts with wire or twine.

31. Remove the speedometer drive gear and the ball - pin A of the gear located in the shaft groove.

32. Remove the slinger washer.

33. Using a 10 mm wrench, unscrew the bolt fastening the fork of the V gear and reverse gear.

34. To block the rotation of the shafts, we shift the intermediate gear A of the reverse gear, including the reverse gear. The second gear was engaged earlier when removing the rear cover. If it turns off, press on the rod B. Using a 17 mm socket wrench, weaken the tightening of the bolt securing the block of gears of the 5th gear and reverse gear, without completely unscrewing the bolt.

35. Using a 13 mm socket wrench, unscrew one nut securing the clutch housing to the VAZ 2107 gearbox and unscrew the remaining six nuts with a 17 mm socket wrench.

36. Having wrung out with a screwdriver, disconnect the clutch housing from the gearbox and remove the gasket.

37. To replace the input shaft oil seal with a punch, press the oil seal through the hole in the flange of the front cover of the gearbox.

38. Using the pliers, remove the oil seal from the front cover of the gearbox.

39. Remove the spring ring from the input shaft of the gearbox. The ring has a tapered shape and is installed with a smaller diameter towards the bearing.

40. Using a 19 mm socket wrench, unscrew the bolt securing the front bearing of the intermediate shaft and take out the bolt together with the spring and clamping washers.

41. With a 17 mm socket wrench, finally unscrew and remove the bolt securing the gear block.

42. Moving the Vth gear shift fork along the rod, remove the gear block from the intermediate shaft.

43. Install the gear block in a vice and press the inner ring of the intermediate shaft rear bearing with two large screwdrivers.

We assemble the bearing and tie its parts with wire or twine.

44. Remove the spacer washer from the secondary shaft.

45. Using a 13 mm socket wrench, unscrew the two bolts securing the cover of the rod clamps.

46. Remove the cover with the gasket.

47. From the holes in the gearbox housing of the VAZ 2107, we extract the springs of the rod clamps. Spring A of the lock of the V and reverse gear engaging rod differs from others in rigidity. To distinguish it, it has a dark color and during assembly it must be installed in its place.

48. It is convenient to remove the locking balls using a rubber bulb, creating a vacuum.

49. Remove the V gear assembly with a synchronizer from the secondary shaft.

50. Remove the spacer ring.

51. Having shifted the gear selection fork, remove the V gear synchronizer sleeve.

52. Holding the fork, remove the intermediate reverse gear from the axle.

53. Remove the 5th gear and reverse gear engagement rod together with the gear selector fork and the rod distance sleeve A. Remove the bushing and plug from the stem.

54. Using a 10 mm socket wrench, unscrew the bolt securing the stem head and remove it.

55. Using a magnetic screwdriver or using a rubber bulb, remove the locking cracker from hole A in the wall of the gearbox housing.

56. Using pliers, unclench the locking ring of the V-gear synchronizer coupling hub and remove it.

57. Remove the hub from the gearbox shaft.

58. Remove the spring washer.

59. Remove the reverse gear.

60.Having pushed out from the inside, we take out the rear bearing of the intermediate shaft.

61. Prying the front bearing of the intermediate shaft by the locating ring with two screwdrivers, take it out.

62. We take out the intermediate shaft from the gearbox housing.

63. Prying with two screwdrivers, remove a part of the inner ring of the rear bearing from the intermediate shaft and assemble the bearing.

64. Using a 10 mm socket wrench with an extension cord, unscrew the bolt securing the 3rd and 4th gear shift fork to the rod.

65. We take out the rod of inclusion of III and IV gears from the hole, at the same time removing the plug from it.

66. From the hole in the rod, remove the blocking cracker.

67. With a powerful magnet or with the help of a rubber bulb, we remove the blocking cracker from the hole in the gearbox housing.

68. Using a 10 mm socket wrench, unscrew the bolt fastening the forks of the 1st and 2nd gears.

69. We take out the stem from the hole, at the same time removing the plug from it.

70. Using an impact screwdriver, unscrew the three screws securing the retaining plate of the intermediate bearing of the secondary shaft and remove it.

71. Prying with two large screwdrivers for the bearing mounting ring, we push the bearing out of the crankcase.

72. Remove the input shaft of the VAZ 2107 gearbox assembly.

73. We take out the front roller bearing from the bore of the input shaft.
The bearing can also remain at the end of the output shaft.

74. Prying with two screwdrivers on the locating ring of the intermediate bearing of the secondary shaft, we pull the bearing off the shaft.

75. We take out the secondary shaft of the gearbox from the crankcase.

76. Holding the axle of the intermediate reverse gear wheel from turning with a 24 mm wrench, unscrew the axle nut with a 19 mm socket wrench.

77. Clamping the secondary shaft vertically in a vice through soft lining, remove the synchronizer of III and IV gears from the shaft.

78. Using pliers, unclench and remove the hub retaining ring from the shaft.

79. Remove the spring washer.

80. Remove the hub of the synchronizer coupling.

81. Remove the gear with a synchronizer of the III transfer.

82. We support the edges of the 1st gear gear on a rigid base (for example, two keys), up to 5 mm thick. We press out the secondary shaft from the gear sleeve through a drift from soft metal.

83. We take out the bushing of the gear wheel of the secondary shaft of the gearbox VAZ 2107.

84. Remove the pinion of the secondary shaft with the 1st gear synchronizer.

85. We take out the hub of the synchronizer clutch of the 1st and 2nd gears.

86. Remove the synchronizer sleeve.

87. Remove the gear wheel with a synchronizer of the 2nd gear from the shaft.

88. Having fastened the input shaft in a vice through soft lining, we push apart and remove the bearing retaining ring with pliers.

89. Remove the spring washer.

90. Leaning the edges of the bearing on a rigid base, press the input shaft out of the inner ring of the bearing through a soft metal drift.

91. Holding the blocking ring of the IV gear synchronizer clutch with your hand, use the pliers to push apart and remove the retaining ring.

92. Gradually releasing the locking ring, remove it and the synchronizer spring of the 4th gear.

93. Similarly, we disassemble the mechanisms of synchronizers of other gears.

Assembling the gearbox of the car VAZ 2107

Note
The tightening torques of the critical threaded connections of parts are given in the appendices (see "Tightening torques of threaded connections on a VAZ 2107 car").

Also, the deformation of the gear shift forks is not allowed, the gearbox forks rods must slide freely without a significant gap in the holes of the gearbox housing.
There should be no traces of binding on the hubs of the gear clutches.
The friction surfaces of the locking rings must be notched. In case of wear of the notch, replace the locking ring with a new one.

1. All gaskets and oil seals of the transmission are replaced with new ones.
2. Before installing the gearbox oil seals, grease the working surfaces of the oil seals with a thin layer of grease.
3. When assembling the gearbox, lubricate all parts with gear oil.
4.When assembling the gear blocks on the shafts, installing the retaining rings, we seat them with a screwdriver until the rings are completely fixed.
5. When installing bearings on shafts, we apply force to the inner rings, and when installing in the holes of the crankcases, to the outer ones.

6. Press the input shaft oil seal into the front cover with a mandrel of a suitable diameter.

Of course, everyone knows that it is better to trust professionals to repair the engine or gearbox of a car. But for every owner of a VAZ 2107, it will not be at all superfluous to know how to remove the box and repair it yourself.

The five-speed gearbox of the VAZ 2107 needs repair when the following signs appear:

the appearance of a hum or an increase in the usual noises;
Difficulty shifting gears;
spontaneous shutdown while driving;

These signs are caused by wear on various parts of the gearbox 5, for example, bearings, synchronizers, spherical joints or oil seals. But in any case, if a malfunction is found, it will be necessary to remove and disassemble the mechanism. And in order to do all these actions correctly, you need to navigate the device of the VAZ 2107 gearbox and be able to disassemble it.In general, the five-speed transmission has the same functions as its predecessor: it changes the torque from the engine in direction and magnitude. The differences are that the five-step has 6 speeds, including 1 reverse speed.Inside the gearbox housing there are:

two types of shafts with a different number of gears - primary and secondary;

levers responsible for shifting gears.

If any faults are found, it is recommended to remove the box, relying on the manufacturer's instructions.Installing the car on a lift (you can use an overpass or pit), preceded by disconnecting the battery and removing the radio panel:

Remove and disassemble the gearbox rod.

Detach the cover from the gap in the place where the lever is attached and remove the filler from the foam rubber.

Remove front exhaust pipe from exhaust system.

Move starter, disconnect speedometer wire.

Unscrew the bolts holding the universal joint and remove it.

The clutch cylinder is retracted in the same way.

After that, the gearbox is removed from the car. To do this, it is best to invite assistants who will support the mechanism while you unscrew the mounting bolts. It is also advisable to drain the transmission oil at this stage.

I bring to your attention an article on repairing a 5-speed gearbox of a new design (the so-called "torn package")
Some of the photos of the process will be repeated, please do not kick too much, the photos were mainly taken during assembly, since the checkpoint and parts were washed, and the camera remained clean :).
What additional tool is required? Input shaft retainer (I made from an old clutch disc hub), a high “30” head for loosening the output shaft nut, a pair of powerful screwdrivers, a circlip remover, an impact screwdriver with a hammer and ideally a torque wrench.

It is unlikely that anyone will have a special stand at hand for repairing the checkpoint, in principle, you can sort it out on the table, and you can also gently clamp it in a vice.
So, we drain the oil from the gearbox, remove the gearbox from the car, remove the elastic coupling, the rear cushion of the gearbox together with the traverse and take out the clutch fork with the boot and the clutch release.
Thoroughly clean the gearbox from dirt using a metal brush, a suitable tool such as a screwdriver, ideally blow it through with a compressor.

Although the oil is drained, there is still a little oil left in the gearbox, so we take this fact into account when disassembling it.
Remove the gearbox lower cover.

We remove the rubber boot of the coupling from the secondary shaft, the stopper from the secondary shaft, use a suitable punch to knock out the centering sleeve of the coupling. If it is not possible to “pick up” the sleeve, then unscrew the nut of the secondary shaft as far as possible and wrap it back.
At the same time, the bushing will almost come off its habitat. We turn on any gear, fix the input shaft, and unscrew the nut of the output shaft by “30”. Remove the conical spring washer.

If there is no retainer for the input shaft at hand, then you can use an aluminum spoon by inserting its handle between the gears of the input and intermediate shafts. Do not be afraid for the gears, the lumin will not harm them.
Remove the flange of the flexible coupling.

We turn off the switch for the reversing lights. Do not lose the copper sealing washer.

We unscrew the nut and take out the speedometer drive

We turn on the second gear and remove the gear lever housing by unscrewing three nuts along the outer radius.

We unscrew the two nuts securing the bracket of the pants to the gearbox

Remove the bracket and remove the square head bolt underneath.

We unscrew the five nuts securing the rear cover on the outside and one on the inside.

Remove the back cover, sometimes you have to hit it with a hammer slightly, the bearings may come loose.
part of the bearing remains on the shaft, part in the back cover, no big deal.

Remove the inner bearing ring from the secondary shaft (hereinafter referred to as P.), then remove the speedometer drive gear.
AHTUNG! There is a small ball under the drive gear, don’t lose it!

We remove the slinger washer and examine it, there was a case when the washer came off the bushing.

Using a screwdriver, set the 1-2 gear shift rod to neutral.
We fix the input shaft and move the head on the “17” bolt of the gear block. Then it will go by hand,
but do not turn it away yet.

Now you need to remove the clutch cover (aka bell). Unscrew one nut at “13” and six nuts at “17”.

Remove, set aside. A spring cone washer remains on the input shaft, or in the bell.
We examine it for chafing, cracks; sometimes, instead of a conical washer, there may be a thick ring.

Holding the input shaft with a retainer, unscrew the front intermediate shaft bolt (hereinafter referred to as the washer shaft) with the head on “19”.

We unscrew the two bolts of the plate holding the springs of the clamps of the gear shift rods.

There are three springs under the plate, two of the same length (for rods of 1-2 and 3-4 gears) and one longer (for a rod of 5th gear and reverse).
We take out the springs.

There are three balls under the springs, they are in oil, they do not fall out by themselves, but still keep an eye on them
in the process of further disassembly.

Now we unscrew the bolt of the gear block and take it out. Now take out the block of gears. Move back and sideways.
The gears of the 5th gear move back a little at the same time.

A spacer ring is installed between the gear block and the rear shaft of the shaft; it sometimes sticks to the gear block.
and disappears at the most inopportune moment.

We remove the 5th gear gear assembly from the secondary shaft with the 5th gear shift rod, with the gear Z.H., the clutch.

Remove the spacer ring.

Using a suitable thin object, push the ball of the retainer out of the socket. I use a tube from VD 40, it is flexible.

Now with pliers we open the locking ring of the V-gear synchronizer coupling hub and remove it.

Remove the hub from the secondary shaft of the gearbox.

Remove the spring washer. It is facing the gear Z.Kh.

Remove the reverse gear

Now you need to remove the washer shaft. To do this, you need to remove the front bearing.
Sometimes it is enough to hook onto the retaining ring with screwdrivers and the P. will come out.

Read also: DIY repair of vaz 2109 racks

First of all, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the box from dirt and oil, and also blow through all bearings and rubbing parts with a compressor. After that, we carefully examine the transmission for cracks, chips and other defects. In most cases, damaged parts need to be replaced with new ones in order to ensure the smooth operation of the gearbox.

In addition, it is important to check the oil seals that act as seals - often it is their wear that leads to leakage and transmission oil leakage.

After replacing failed or worn-out elements, the transmission is assembled in the following sequence:

placement in the housing of the secondary shaft box, installation of the bearing and its fixation;
installation of gear shifting forks. This is the most critical stage, since it is necessary to place the parts in a strictly defined sequence by the manufacturer. First, the rod of the first and second gears is laid, then a long cracker, and after it - a fork of the third and fourth speeds with a short cracker;
installation of the intermediate shaft;
installation of the fifth gear and reverse switch.

The gearbox is mounted in the reverse order to that described above. If you are not sure that you can cope with a rather complicated procedure of disassembly, repair and assembly, it is better to use the help of a specialist, which will eliminate the occurrence of any problems and ensure the normal operation of the transmission on your car.

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Signs of a gearbox failure are increased noise during vehicle operation, heavy gear shifting, oil leakage, and spontaneous gear disengagement. In the event of at least one malfunction, the VAZ-2107 gearbox is repaired with our own hands, or in a specialized service ..

In any case, in order to repair the VAZ-2107 gearbox on your own, you will need to remove it from the car. And in order to do this, you need to drive the car into a viewing hole or overpass.

The first step is to remove the rod from the gear lever. After that, you need to unscrew the self-tapping screws of the cover covering the floor hole with a screwdriver

car body. This completes the work inside the passenger compartment, all subsequent removal steps are performed from the bottom of the car.

Remove the downpipe of the exhaust system;
Then the starter is unscrewed and removed from the flywheel housing;
The propeller shaft is disconnected from the gearbox.

For the convenience of removing the box, you need to disconnect the cross member of the rear engine support and the speedometer drive cable.

Further, the clutch hydraulic cylinder is disconnected from the gearbox. It is important not to accidentally remove the hydraulic hose from the cylinder when disconnecting the cylinder.

After that, you need to unscrew the bolts with which the clutch housing cover is attached (key 10). Next, proceed to the direct removal of the box, and since its weight is significant, you need to install a reliable support under it.

Then, using a socket wrench, the bolts are unscrewed due to which the clutch housing is attached to the engine. Now, to remove the box, it must be carefully pushed back, gradually removing the input shaft from the hub of the clutch disc.

This must be done carefully in order to prevent the displacement of the driven disk, otherwise the installation of the box in place will be difficult. In principle, the removal work has been completed, the VAZ-2107 gearbox can be repaired.

The increased noise of the gearbox can be caused by wear or failure of its shaft bearings, as well as significant wear of gears and synchronizers. Disassembly will be required to determine what is causing the increased noise.

The work is quite complicated in terms of technology, and if the motorist is not confident in his abilities, then it is better to contact a specialized service station, otherwise, in the future, incorrect assembly can lead to more significant consequences, or to the fact that the gearbox will not work.

But, if it was decided to repair the VAZ-2107 gearbox himself, then this would require a set of keys and heads, a powerful screwdriver, pullers for removing bearings.

The first step is to unscrew the nuts with which the body of the shift lever is attached and remove the lever from the box.

Then the exhaust pipe mounting bracket is removed. After that, the bolts for securing the rear and bottom covers of the box are unscrewed. This will be enough to visually determine the condition of the gears and synchronizers.

If their significant wear is noticed, then most likely the reason for the increased noise in them. But it is also worth checking the gearbox shafts for axial displacement. If there is one, then the bearings are also badly worn out and need to be replaced.

To carry out work on replacing worn parts, a complete disassembly of the gearbox will be required.To do this, first remove the back cover by unscrewing its fastening nut, which can be accessed after removing the bottom cover.

For the convenience of its removal, you will need to move the 1-2 gear slider down. Then, gently tapping on the lid, remove it from the studs.

To gain access to the 5th gear and reverse bearing, you need to press out the plug. After that, the 5th and reverse gear block is removed.

The puller carefully removes the bearing and the output shaft oil seal from the cover housing. With traces of noticeable wear and tear, they are replaced with new ones.

For further disassembly of the box, the clutch housing is disconnected from it. This will allow access to the gland of the front cover of the box. If oil leakage is noticed, then the oil seal must be replaced.

Next, the bolt of the front cover bearing, the bolt of the gear block and the bolt of the intermediate shaft are unscrewed. Then the plate is unscrewed, under which the springs and sliders are located.

The springs and clips are also removed, it is important to note which spring was in which seat, since the 5th gear and reverse springs are somewhat longer.

After these procedures, the gear block is removed. But before that you need to remember the location of the spacer rings. First, the gears of the 5th gear are removed along with the shift rod. In most cases, gears have stop rings and must be removed carefully.

Then the rear bearing of the countershaft is removed and this shaft is removed from the housing. After that, a slider is taken out of the case, which is responsible for turning on the 3rd and 4th gears, having previously unscrewed the bolt from it that secures the inclusion fork.

In the same way, the 1st and 2nd gear slider is removed. When removing them, it is important not to lose the locking cracks in the crankcase.

Having finished with the sliders, you can remove the input shaft. The next operation will be to remove the lock plate, behind which is the output shaft bearing.

After removing it, it will be possible to remove the secondary shaft. Disassembly is complete.

After disassembly, you need to troubleshoot the box parts. If severe wear of the gear teeth is noticed, they must be replaced. It is better to replace gears one at a time. In order not to bend the gears.

Many gears have retaining rings. Synchronizers undergo the same troubleshooting. Noticing even a slight wear or damage to them - they are replaced.

Particular attention must be paid to the condition of the bearings. They should not have backlash, the appearance of deep running tracks of balls.

Although, even if the bearing looks good on the outside, it is better to replace it. This eliminates the possibility of noise after assembly of the box.

Spontaneous shutdown of speed

If the repair of the VAZ-2107 gearbox is associated with the spontaneous shutdown of any gear, then sliders and latches come under close scrutiny.

It is necessary to inspect the condition of the retainer seats. If the edges of the seats are heavily worn, then the sliders must be replaced.

Another method of restoring footprints is used by some craftsmen. For this, a layer of metal is applied to the seats using a welding machine. And then, with the help of a grinder, new seats are cut out in the applied metal.

The method is quite simple, but not very effective, since the deposited metal is softer in structure, which means that its wear will be much faster.

It is advisable to replace the retainers during repairs, as well as the springs that press them against the sliders.

This is done because the springs are constantly in a compressed state and shrink over time, which is why they do not create the proper force on the clips.

Difficulty shifting gears can be caused by a strong contamination of the lever arm or sticking of sliders.

In order to determine the cause of this malfunction, you need to take the shift lever housing and check if there is any jamming when moving the lever.If there is one, you need to establish the cause and eliminate it.

If the lever in the body moves without much effort, then the reason is in the sliders. After removing them from the gearbox housing, you need to carefully inspect them. Usually, in places of seizing on sliders, marks in the form of scuffs and scratches remain.

The sliders should then be inspected for galling particles. Also, as an option, there may be a slight bend of the slider itself. In this case, the slider is replaced.

The causes of oil leakage, as already mentioned, can be worn or damaged oil seals. In principle, in cases where the gearbox is being repaired, it is better to always replace the oil seals with new ones.

Also, in order to prevent oil leakage, it is also better to replace all gaskets with new ones and use a sealant during assembly of the gearbox. All gaskets and seals are sold in one repair kit.

Another option for leakage may be the appearance of a crack in the crankcase of the box or, as a rare case, the breakdown of the case with a strong impact on it.

Repair of the VAZ 2107 gearbox in this case comes down to replacing the crankcase or sealing a crack or breakdown.

The simplest method is to weld the crack. Before using the welding machine, the edges of the crack are drilled to prevent its further enlargement, the surface is degreased and welded.

In the event of a crankcase breakdown, you can take a metal patch and weld it, thereby sealing up the place of penetration.

Another option is to apply a metal patch and then secure it with bolts. For this, holes are made in the crankcase around the breakdown, and threads are cut into them. Holes are also drilled in the patch so that they match exactly with the holes in the crankcase.

Before fixing the patch, a rubber gasket cut from the chamber is placed between it and the crankcase. Further, the patch is bolted to the point of penetration, thereby eliminating oil leakage.

It is important that when choosing bolts, their length must be taken into account so that they do not protrude beyond the inner surface of the crankcase and do not interfere with the rotation of the gears.

Video (click to play).

The VAZ 2107 gearbox is not a manual transmission from a Mercedes, Audi or other foreign car, and the work here is not as complicated as it might seem.

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