DIY repair of a five-step vaz 2107

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a five-stage vaz 2107 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

To carry out work on disassembling the gearbox of a VAZ 2107 car, you will need fixing glue, an impact screwdriver, a three-grip puller, oil seals for the primary and secondary shafts, a set of gaskets, and a torque wrench.

Dismantling the gearbox VAZ 2107
1. Drain the oil from the gearbox (see "VAZ 2107 gearbox - checking the oil level and changing the oil").
2. Remove the gearbox from the VAZ 2107 car (see "VAZ 2107 gearbox - removal and installation").
3. We clean with a brush and rinse the outer surface of the gearbox with kerosene or white spirit.
4. Remove the release bearing clutch and the clutch release fork from the gearbox (see "VAZ 2107 clutch parts - removal and installation").
5. Disconnect the elastic coupling of the propeller shaft from the flange on the secondary shaft of the box (see "Driveline transmission of the car VAZ 2107 - disassembly and assembly").
6. Remove the flange of the elastic coupling from the secondary shaft of the gearbox (see "Oil seal of the secondary shaft of the VAZ 2107 - replacement").
7. Disconnect the support of the power unit with a cross member from the rear cover of the gearbox (see "Supports (pillows) of the power unit VAZ 2107 - replacement").
8. Remove the speedometer drive (see "VAZ 2107 speedometer drive - replacement").
9. Remove the reversing light switch (see "VAZ 2107 reversing light switch - check and replacement").
10. Remove the cuff from the ball joint of the gear lever.

11. Using a 10 mm wrench, unscrew the three nuts securing the gear lever housing to the rear crankcase cover.

12. Remove the lever housing and the gasket A under it from the studs.

Video (click to play).

13. Using a 13 mm socket wrench, unscrew the two nuts securing the bracket for the exhaust pipe of the exhaust system.

14. Remove the bracket and take out the square head bolt underneath.

15. Using the 13 mm socket and box wrenches, unscrew the five nuts securing the rear cover.

16. Using a 10 mm socket wrench, unscrew the ten nuts securing the bottom cover.

17. Remove the cover and the gasket underneath.

18. Some nuts may come loose with the studs. In this case, after washing the threaded holes and studs with a solvent, apply fixing glue according to the instructions and install the studs in place.

19. Using a 13 mm wrench, unscrew the remaining rear cover retaining nut located inside the gearbox housing.

20. To facilitate the removal of the rear cover, use a screwdriver to recess the 1st and 2nd gear engagement rod. This engages second gear.

21. Tapping the gearbox cover with a hammer with a rubber or wooden striker along the perimeter of the mounting plane, disconnect the cover from the gearbox housing.

22. Remove the rear cover from the studs, and then, turning it clockwise, remove it from the gearbox housing. A gasket installed between the cover and the transmission housing may break. When assembling the gearbox, install a new gasket.

23. We remove from the back cover the plastic plug of the block of gears of the 5th gear and reverse gear, squeezing it out with a suitable tool through the hole in the bearing.

24. Using pliers, remove from the groove in the cover the thrust ring of the bearing of the block of gears of the 5th gear and reverse gear.

25. In order not to damage the rear cover, install it on two wooden blocks and press out the bearing of the gear block of the 5th gear and reverse gear with a hammer (through a mandrel of a suitable diameter).The inner ring of the bearing usually remains on the block shaft.

26. We take out the bearing of the gear block.

27. Remove the secondary shaft oil seal from the hole in the rear cover (see "Output shaft oil seal VAZ 2107 - replacement").
28. Take out the thrust washer of the inner ring of the rear bearing of the secondary shaft.

29. Press out the rear bearing of the gearbox output shaft with a mandrel of a suitable diameter and take it out.

30. Remove the inner ring of the rear bearing from the secondary shaft.

We assemble the bearing by tying its parts with wire or twine.

31. Remove the speedometer drive gear and the ball - pin A of the gear located in the shaft groove.

32. Remove the slinger washer.

33. Using a 10 mm wrench, unscrew the bolt fastening the fork of the V gear and reverse gear.

34. To block the rotation of the shafts, we shift the intermediate gear A of the reverse gear, including the reverse gear. The second gear was engaged earlier when removing the rear cover. If it turns off, press on the rod B. Using a 17 mm socket wrench, weaken the tightening of the bolt securing the block of gears of the 5th gear and reverse gear, without completely unscrewing the bolt.

35. Using a 13 mm socket wrench, unscrew one nut securing the clutch housing to the VAZ 2107 gearbox and unscrew the remaining six nuts with a 17 mm socket wrench.

36. Having wrung out with a screwdriver, disconnect the clutch housing from the gearbox and remove the gasket.

37. To replace the input shaft oil seal with a punch, press the oil seal through the hole in the flange of the front cover of the gearbox.

38. Using the pliers, remove the oil seal from the front cover of the gearbox.

39. Remove the spring ring from the input shaft of the gearbox. The ring has a tapered shape and is installed with a smaller diameter towards the bearing.

40. Using a 19 mm socket wrench, unscrew the bolt securing the front bearing of the intermediate shaft and take out the bolt together with the spring and clamping washers.

41. With a 17 mm socket wrench, finally unscrew and remove the bolt securing the gear block.

42. Moving the Vth gear shift fork along the rod, remove the gear block from the intermediate shaft.

43. Install the gear block in a vice and press the inner ring of the intermediate shaft rear bearing with two large screwdrivers.

We assemble the bearing and tie its parts with wire or twine.

44. Remove the spacer washer from the secondary shaft.

45. Using a 13 mm socket wrench, unscrew the two bolts securing the cover of the rod clamps.

46. Remove the cover with the gasket.

47. From the holes in the gearbox housing of the VAZ 2107, we extract the springs of the rod clamps. Spring A of the lock of the V and reverse gear engaging rod differs from others in rigidity. To distinguish it, it has a dark color and during assembly it must be installed in its place.

48. It is convenient to remove the locking balls using a rubber bulb, creating a vacuum.

49. Remove the V gear assembly with a synchronizer from the secondary shaft.

50. Remove the spacer ring.

51. Having shifted the gear selection fork, remove the V gear synchronizer sleeve.

52. Holding the fork, remove the intermediate reverse gear from the axle.

53. Remove the 5th gear and reverse gear engagement rod together with the gear selector fork and the rod distance sleeve A. Remove the bushing and plug from the stem.

54. Using a 10 mm socket wrench, unscrew the bolt securing the stem head and remove it.

55. Using a magnetic screwdriver or using a rubber bulb, remove the locking cracker from hole A in the wall of the gearbox housing.

56. Using pliers, unclench the locking ring of the V-gear synchronizer coupling hub and remove it.

57. Remove the hub from the gearbox shaft.

58. Remove the spring washer.

59. Remove the reverse gear.

60.Having pushed out from the inside, we take out the rear bearing of the intermediate shaft.

61. Prying the front bearing of the intermediate shaft by the locating ring with two screwdrivers, take it out.

62. We take out the intermediate shaft from the gearbox housing.

63. Prying with two screwdrivers, remove a part of the inner ring of the rear bearing from the intermediate shaft and assemble the bearing.

64. Using a 10 mm socket wrench with an extension cord, unscrew the bolt securing the 3rd and 4th gear shift fork to the rod.

65. We take out the rod of inclusion of III and IV gears from the hole, at the same time removing the plug from it.

66. From the hole in the rod, remove the blocking cracker.

67. With a powerful magnet or with the help of a rubber bulb, we remove the blocking cracker from the hole in the gearbox housing.

68. Using a 10 mm socket wrench, unscrew the bolt fastening the forks of the 1st and 2nd gears.

69. We take out the stem from the hole, at the same time removing the plug from it.

70. Using an impact screwdriver, unscrew the three screws securing the retaining plate of the intermediate bearing of the secondary shaft and remove it.

71. Prying with two large screwdrivers for the bearing mounting ring, we push the bearing out of the crankcase.

72. Remove the input shaft of the VAZ 2107 gearbox assembly.

73. We take out the front roller bearing from the bore of the input shaft.
The bearing can also remain at the end of the output shaft.

74. Prying with two screwdrivers on the locating ring of the intermediate bearing of the secondary shaft, we pull the bearing off the shaft.

75. We take out the secondary shaft of the gearbox from the crankcase.

76. Holding the axle of the intermediate reverse gear wheel from turning with a 24 mm wrench, unscrew the axle fastening nut with a 19 mm socket wrench.

77. Clamping the secondary shaft vertically in a vice through soft lining, remove the synchronizer of III and IV gears from the shaft.

78. Using pliers, unclench and remove the hub retaining ring from the shaft.

79. Remove the spring washer.

80. Remove the hub of the synchronizer coupling.

81. Remove the gear with a synchronizer of the III transfer.

82. We support the edges of the 1st gear gear on a rigid base (for example, two keys), up to 5 mm thick. We press out the secondary shaft from the gear sleeve through a drift from soft metal.

83. We take out the bushing of the gear wheel of the secondary shaft of the gearbox VAZ 2107.

84. Remove the pinion of the secondary shaft with the 1st gear synchronizer.

85. We take out the hub of the synchronizer clutch of the 1st and 2nd gears.

86. Remove the synchronizer sleeve.

87. Remove the gear wheel with a synchronizer of the 2nd gear from the shaft.

88. Having fastened the input shaft in a vice through soft lining, we push apart and remove the bearing retaining ring with pliers.

89. Remove the spring washer.

90. Leaning the edges of the bearing on a rigid base, press the input shaft out of the inner ring of the bearing through a soft metal drift.

91. Holding the blocking ring of the IV gear synchronizer clutch with your hand, use the pliers to push apart and remove the retaining ring.

92. Gradually releasing the locking ring, remove it and the synchronizer spring of the 4th gear.

93. Similarly, we disassemble the mechanisms of synchronizers of other gears.

Assembling the gearbox of the car VAZ 2107

Note
The tightening torques of critical threaded connections of parts are given in the appendices (see "Tightening torques of threaded connections on a VAZ 2107 car").

Also, the deformation of the gear shift forks is not allowed, the gearbox forks rods must slide freely without a significant gap in the holes of the gearbox housing.
There should be no traces of binding on the hubs of the gear clutches.
The friction surfaces of the locking rings must be notched. In case of wear of the notch, replace the locking ring with a new one.

1. All gaskets and oil seals of the gearbox are replaced with new ones.
2. Before installing the gearbox oil seals, grease the working surfaces of the oil seals with a thin layer of grease.
3. When assembling the gearbox, lubricate all parts with gear oil.
4.When assembling the gear blocks on the shafts, installing the retaining rings, we seat them with a screwdriver until the rings are completely fixed.
5. When installing bearings on shafts, we apply force to the inner rings, and when installing in the holes of the crankcases, to the outer ones.

6. Press the input shaft oil seal into the front cover with a mandrel of a suitable diameter.

Of course, everyone knows that it is better to trust professionals to repair the engine or gearbox of a car. But for every owner of a VAZ 2107, it will not be superfluous to know how to remove the box and repair it yourself.

The five-speed gearbox of the VAZ 2107 needs repair when the following signs appear:

the appearance of a hum or an increase in the usual noises;
Difficulty shifting gears;
spontaneous shutdown while driving;

These signs are caused by wear on various parts of the gearbox 5, for example, bearings, synchronizers, spherical joints or oil seals. But in any case, if a malfunction is found, it will be necessary to remove and disassemble the mechanism. And in order to do all these actions correctly, you need to navigate the device of the VAZ 2107 gearbox and be able to disassemble it.In general, the five-speed transmission has the same functions as its predecessor: it changes the torque from the engine in direction and magnitude. The differences are that the five-step has 6 speeds, including 1 reverse speed.Inside the gearbox housing there are:

two types of shafts with a different number of gears - primary and secondary;

levers responsible for gear shifting.

If any faults are found, it is recommended to remove the box, relying on the manufacturer's instructions.Installing the car on a lift (you can use an overpass or pit), preceded by disconnecting the battery and removing the radio panel:

Remove and disassemble the gearbox rod.

Detach the cover from the gap in the place where the lever is attached and remove the filler from the foam rubber.

Remove front exhaust pipe from exhaust system.

Move starter, disconnect speedometer wire.

Unscrew the bolts holding the universal joint and remove it.

The clutch cylinder is retracted in the same way.

After that, the gearbox is removed from the car. To do this, it is best to invite assistants who will support the mechanism while you unscrew the mounting bolts. It is also advisable to drain the transmission oil at this stage.

I bring to your attention an article on repairing a 5-speed gearbox of a new design (the so-called "torn package")
Some of the photos of the process will be repeated, please do not kick too much, the photos were mainly taken during assembly, since the checkpoint and parts were washed, and the camera remained clean :).
What additional tool is required? Input shaft retainer (I made from an old clutch disc hub), a high “30” head for loosening the output shaft nut, a pair of powerful screwdrivers, a circlip remover, an impact screwdriver with a hammer, and ideally a torque wrench.

It is unlikely that anyone will have a special stand for repairing the checkpoint at hand, in principle, you can sort it out on the table, and you can also gently clamp it in a vice.
So, we drain the oil from the gearbox, remove the gearbox from the car, remove the elastic coupling, the rear cushion of the gearbox along with the traverse and take out the clutch fork with the boot and the clutch release.
Thoroughly clean the gearbox from dirt using a metal brush, a suitable tool such as a screwdriver, ideally blow it through with a compressor.

Although the oil is drained, there is still a little oil left in the gearbox, so we take this fact into account when disassembling it.
Remove the lower gearbox cover.

We remove the rubber boot of the coupling from the secondary shaft, the stopper from the secondary shaft, use a suitable punch to knock out the centering sleeve of the coupling. If it is not possible to “pick up” the sleeve, then unscrew the nut of the secondary shaft as far as possible and wrap it back.
At the same time, the bushing will almost come off its habitat. We turn on any gear, fix the input shaft, and unscrew the nut of the output shaft by “30”. Remove the conical spring washer.

If there is no retainer for the input shaft at hand, then you can use an aluminum spoon by inserting its handle between the gears of the input and intermediate shafts. Do not be afraid for the gears, the lumin will not harm them.
Remove the flange of the flexible coupling.

We turn off the switch for the reversing lights. Do not lose the copper sealing washer.

We unscrew the nut and take out the speedometer drive

We turn on the second gear and remove the gear lever housing by unscrewing three nuts along the outer radius.

We unscrew the two nuts securing the bracket of the pants to the gearbox

Remove the bracket and remove the square head bolt underneath.

We unscrew the five nuts securing the rear cover on the outside and one on the inside.

Remove the back cover, sometimes you have to hit it with a hammer slightly, the bearings may come loose.
part of the bearing remains on the shaft, part in the back cover, no big deal.

Remove the inner bearing ring from the secondary shaft (hereinafter referred to as P.), then remove the speedometer drive gear.
AHTUNG! There is a small ball under the drive gear, don’t lose it!

We remove the slinger washer and examine it, there was a case when the washer came off the bushing.

Using a screwdriver, set the 1-2 gear shift rod to neutral.
We fix the input shaft and move the head on the “17” bolt of the gear block. Then it will go by hand,
but do not turn it away yet.

Now you need to remove the clutch cover (aka bell). Unscrew one nut at “13” and six nuts at “17”.

Remove, set aside. A spring cone washer remains on the input shaft, or in the bell.
We examine it for chafing, cracks; sometimes, instead of a conical washer, there may be a thick ring.

Holding the input shaft with a retainer, unscrew the front intermediate shaft bolt (hereinafter referred to as the washer shaft) with the head on “19”.

We unscrew the two bolts of the plate holding the springs of the clamps of the gear shift rods.

There are three springs under the plate, two of the same length (for rods of 1-2 and 3-4 gears) and one longer (for the 5th gear and reverse gear).
We take out the springs.

There are three balls under the springs, they are in oil, they do not fall out by themselves, but still keep an eye on them
in the process of further disassembly.

Now we unscrew the bolt of the gear block and take it out. Now take out the block of gears. Move back and sideways.
The gears of the 5th gear move back a little.

A spacer ring is installed between the gear block and the rear shaft of the shaft; it sometimes sticks to the gear block.
and disappears at the most inopportune moment.

We remove the 5th gear gear assembly from the secondary shaft with the 5th gear shift rod, with the gear Z.H., the clutch.

Remove the spacer ring.

Using a suitable thin object, push the ball of the retainer out of the socket. I use a tube from VD 40, it is flexible.

Now with pliers we open the locking ring of the V-gear synchronizer coupling hub and remove it.

Remove the hub from the secondary shaft of the gearbox.

Remove the spring washer. It is facing the gear Z.Kh.

Remove the reverse gear

Now you need to remove the washer shaft. To do this, you need to remove the front bearing.
Sometimes it is enough to hook onto the retaining ring with screwdrivers and the P. will come out.

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Sometimes he does not want to slide, then he has to screw the bolt several turns into the hole and, creating an emphasis with a screwdriver, slightly
knock on the bolt with a hammer and move the bearing.

Now we remove the rear P. of the scrubber by pushing it out of the housing with a screwdriver.

We unscrew the bolt securing the 3-4 gears fork to the 3-4 gear shift rod with the head on “10”.

We take out the stem and at the same time pull out the plug.

AHTUNG! There is a small lock block in the selector rod which may fall out when the rod is pulled out.

Then we remove the blocking cracker from the gearbox housing.

We take out the ball of the retainer.

We unscrew the bolt securing the 1-2 gear fork to the 1-2 gear shift rod with the head on “10”.

We take out the stem and at the same time pull out the plug.

Then we remove the blocking cracker from the gearbox housing.

We take out the ball of the retainer.

Remove the needle bearing and examine the friction surfaces of the needle bearing inside the input shaft and on the output shaft.
If there are traces of chipping, then the shaft will have to be changed.

We wash the bearing and carefully inspect it, the treadmill and balls should not have traces of chipping, pitting
The oil lubricated bearing should run quietly, without jamming or noise.
This is what a worn-out treadmill looks like - the cause of the noise

If it becomes necessary to replace the bearing, then:
Remove the retaining ring from the outer bearing race

Using a puller, we remove the retaining ring, if it does not slide out of its place, then we knock it down with a punch,
remove the spring washer

We press out the bearing and press on a new one.
blow along the shaft

Using an impact screwdriver and a hammer, pull off and unscrew the three screws of the locking plate.

The screws can be reused in the absence of damage, but we always install new castellated washers during assembly.
Remove the locking plate.

We remove the bearing from the gearbox housing assembly with a lock washer.

Holding the gears on the shaft, pull out the secondary shaft assembly from the gearbox housing.

This is what the removed output shaft assembly looks like.

Remove the 3-4 gears clutch from the shaft, inspect the clutch; there should be no dents on the teeth.
Now we disassemble the output shaft for inspection of 1st and 2nd gears. All parts are simply removed from the shaft.
Sometimes the 1-2 gear hub can sit tight enough, a couple of light blows to the 2nd gear gear and the hub will come off.
This is how the 1st and 2nd gear parts removed from the secondary shaft look.

If you need to get access to the 3rd gear gear and the locking ring, then we disassemble the shaft in the following order:
We clamp the shaft in a vice through a rag.

It will not work to unclench the stopper, we knock it out of place with a punch, the ring will pop out by itself.

Remove the 3rd gear assembly.

We put in place the gear, hub, spring ring.

Using a circlip remover, we put the circlip as close as possible to its place on the shaft.

Using a punch with a blow from above and around the perimeter of the ring, we plant the retaining ring in place.

We inspect the gears, the teeth should not have nicks, the edges should be sharp

We inspect the gears; chipped teeth are not allowed.
When buying a new gear, pay attention to the teeth of the gear itself - there should be no nicks or other defects.
There were new gears with nicks, as a result of which the noise was provided.
We inspect the synchronizer blocking ring, it should not have marks from the coupling (notches along the ring or an annular groove)
In the photo on the left is a worn ring, on the right is a new one

To replace the locking ring, press the ring against the gear (compressing the spring)
and unclench the locking ring with a puller

Remove the stopper and locking ring

We put a new ring, put it back, check the ease of movement, it should not jam.

We inspect the clutch-nicks on the teeth, there should be no signs of wear in the groove under the fork
Worn coupling

We inspect the shift forks; wear on the working surface of the fork is not allowed.
For comparison, a new and worn fork

Image - DIY repair of a five-stage vaz 2107

We change the input shaft oil seal.
From the clutch side, through a hole in the guide sleeve of the release bearing with a suitable diameter punch
knock out the oil seal.

We thoroughly clean, degrease, lubricate with a thin layer of sealant,
we put the oil seal in place using the head on “32”.

Examining the clutch fork support "soldier" for wear.
We inspect the spring thrust washer (wear of the bearing surfaces, cracks are not allowed).

Put some lithol on the washer seat and put it in place. With lithol, the washer is “glued” and will not fall out during assembly.

Let's now deal with the back cover.
As a rule, a cage of one or two bearings remains in it, and the oil seal also needs to be changed.
We knock out the plug with an extension cord.

We knock out the oil seal with a screwdriver.

Using a screwdriver and a hammer, knock the bearings out of the back cover housing. sit without tension, so they knock out easily.

We wash the body, degrease the gland seats and plugs.
Apply sealant to the gland seats and plugs.
We press in the oil seal and the plug.

Along with the engine, the gearbox is one of the most important components of any car. With its help, the torque of the motor is changed and transmitted to the wheels, so that the speed of the machine can be adjusted.

The design of the VAZ-2107 car uses the so-called 5th mortar, or five-speed transmission. In case of its breakdowns, the manufacturer strongly recommends contacting specialists, however, if all our recommendations are followed, you can easily cope with the repair of this complex unit on your own. The main thing is to correctly determine this or that malfunction and find the reasons for its occurrence.

Repair of the VAZ-2107 gearbox may be required if the following symptoms of incorrect operation are detected:

difficulties arise with shifting gears, the lever is very tight and requires considerable physical effort from the driver;
gears change by themselves;
there is extraneous noise from the box while the car is moving;
transmission fluid leaks.

As you can see, there are not so many common gearbox breakdowns, despite its rather complex design and a large number of parts. At the same time, to eliminate them, it is imperative to remove and disassemble the transmission.

This process is quite complicated, so if you intend to carry out dismantling yourself, we recommend using the help of your friends or acquaintances who have an idea of \ u200b \ u200bthe design of a car.

Disassembly and assembly of the gearbox when any malfunction is detected should be carried out in the following sequence:

we de-energize the system by removing the negative contact from the battery;
dismantle the radio panel;
slightly move down the locking sleeve and remove it from the rod cavity;
with a sharp movement, pull the rod out of the gearshift lever;
remove the upper and lower bushings from the lever;
dismantle the gearbox cover, which is fixed with four screws;
we remove the cover that protects the handbrake from dirt, and then unscrew all the fasteners located on the floor of the car;
dismantle the hoses through which warm air is supplied to the air filter;
move the starter forward a little, then unscrew the gearbox crankcase plug and drain the transmission oil;
dismantle the muffler and turn off the cardan clutch, reverse switch and speedometer cable, which connects the part to the gearbox;
disassemble the clutch housing cover and cardan transmission;
disconnect the last gearbox mounts, move it back a little and remove it outside.

First of all, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the box of dirt and oil, and also blow through all bearings and rubbing parts with a compressor. After that, we carefully examine the transmission for cracks, chips and other defects. In most cases, damaged parts need to be replaced with new ones in order to ensure smooth operation of the gearbox.

In addition, it is important to check the oil seals that act as seals - often it is their wear that leads to leakage and transmission oil leakage.

After replacing failed or worn-out elements, the transmission is assembled in the following sequence:

placement in the housing of the secondary shaft box, installation of the bearing and its fixation;
installation of gear shifting forks. This is the most critical stage, since it is necessary to place the parts in a strictly defined sequence by the manufacturer. First, the stock of the first and second gears is laid, then a long cracker, and after it - a fork of the third and fourth speeds with a short cracker;
installation of the intermediate shaft;
installation of the fifth gear and reverse switch.

The gearbox is mounted in the reverse order to that described above. If you are not sure that you can cope with a rather complicated procedure of disassembly, repair and assembly, it is better to use the help of a specialist, which will eliminate the occurrence of any problems and ensure the normal operation of the transmission on your car.

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Signs of a gearbox failure are increased noise during vehicle operation, heavy gear shifting, oil leakage, and spontaneous gear disengagement. In the event of at least one malfunction, the VAZ-2107 gearbox is repaired with our own hands, or in a specialized service ..

In any case, in order to repair the VAZ-2107 gearbox on your own, you will need to remove it from the car. And in order to do this, you need to drive the car into a viewing hole or overpass.

The first step is to remove the rod from the gear lever. After that, you need to unscrew the self-tapping screws of the cover covering the floor hole with a screwdriver

car body. This completes the work inside the passenger compartment, all subsequent removal steps are performed from the bottom of the car.

Remove the downpipe of the exhaust system;
Then the starter is unscrewed and removed from the flywheel housing;
The propeller shaft is disconnected from the gearbox.

For the convenience of removing the box, you need to disconnect the cross member of the rear engine support and the speedometer drive cable.

Further, the clutch hydraulic cylinder is disconnected from the gearbox. It is important not to accidentally remove the hydraulic hose from the cylinder when disconnecting the cylinder.

After that, you need to unscrew the bolts with which the clutch housing cover is attached (key 10). Next, proceed to the direct removal of the box, and since its weight is significant, you need to install a reliable support under it.

Then, using a socket wrench, the bolts are unscrewed due to which the clutch housing is attached to the engine. Now, to remove the box, it must be carefully pushed back, gradually removing the input shaft from the hub of the clutch disc.

This must be done carefully in order to prevent the displacement of the driven disk, otherwise the installation of the box in place will be difficult. In principle, the removal work has been completed, the VAZ-2107 gearbox can be repaired.

The increased noise of the gearbox can be caused by wear or failure of its shaft bearings, as well as significant wear of gears and synchronizers. Disassembly will be required to determine what is causing the increased noise.

The work is quite complicated in terms of technology, and if the motorist is not confident in his abilities, then it is better to contact a specialized service station, otherwise, in the future, incorrect assembly can lead to more significant consequences, or to the fact that the gearbox will not work.

But, if it was decided to repair the VAZ-2107 gearbox himself, then this would require a set of keys and heads, a powerful screwdriver, pullers for removing bearings.

The first step is to unscrew the nuts with which the body of the shift lever is attached and remove the lever from the box.

Then the exhaust pipe mounting bracket is removed. After that, the bolts for securing the rear and bottom covers of the box are unscrewed. This will be enough to visually determine the condition of the gears and synchronizers.

If their significant wear is noticed, then most likely the reason for the increased noise in them. But it is also worth checking the gearbox shafts for axial displacement. If there is one, then the bearings are also badly worn out and need to be replaced.

To carry out work on replacing worn parts, a complete disassembly of the gearbox will be required.To do this, first remove the back cover by unscrewing the nut of its fastening, access to which is possible after removing the bottom cover.