Today many people call the Buran vacuum cleaners a rarity. Compared to modern light and convenient models with a wide variety of built-in functions, such a device, of course, looks awkward. But, meanwhile, the unit feels great, for example, in the country, and quite copes with minimal tasks. And if you are suddenly overwhelmed by curiosity, or an urgent need to test the "old man" (to clean up the premises with his help) - this information is for you:
The Buran brand, which once produced the famous vacuum cleaners, functions to this day. And, although the production of household vacuum cleaners has been stopped for today, the company's products are quite well-known. The main field of activity of the brand at the moment is the development and production of tools for household use, as well as several types of goods for professional use. So, among the manufactured products, such tools as: perforators, drills, grinders, screwdrivers, jigsaws, circular saws and much more are in special demand among consumers. At the same time, as before, the main criteria in production are the use of the best materials and constant quality control. At the moment, Buran power tools are made from the best metal alloys, which makes them reliable assistants in everyday life. The range of the company is constantly expanding and is the best option that the modern domestic market can offer, both for amateurs and professionals.
TM Buran products are manufactured in Chelyabinsk. At the same time, a quality guarantee for a period of 12 months is provided for each power tool, as well as post-warranty repair and maintenance. The company's products are quite well-known for their quality in the vastness of the post-Soviet space, therefore, branches and stores of this brand are in many cities.
VIDEO As for the "legendary" Buran vacuum cleaner, today, in the light of various new models, it can only be of value among lovers of antiquity and all kinds of Soviet-made products. Although, there are many models that are still in working order. With regards to spare parts, you cannot find them in specialized stores, but you can easily find what you want on the Internet.
Dear customer! You have purchased the Buran 5M model of the vacuum cleaner or its modification Buran-5MR, which has an electronic power regulator designed to regulate the power of the electric motor. Read the instruction manual carefully before using the vacuum cleaner.
1. GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS
1.1. Household floor-standing vacuum cleaners, PNV-600 type, Buran 5M, Buran-5MR models, are intended for:
- in the vacuum (suction) mode for cleaning the premises and objects in them, from dust and debris;
- in pressure (spraying) mode for humidifying indoor air, spraying indoor plants, etc.
1.2. The vacuum cleaner is designed to work in the following conditions:
- temperature range from +1 to + 40 ° С;
- upper value of relative humidity 80% at + 25 ° С;
1.3.When the vacuum cleaner is delivered from the street to a warm room in cold weather, it must be kept indoors for at least three hours in order to evaporate the moisture condensation inside the vacuum cleaner.
Information about the content of non-ferrous metals in the product; brass, g - 3.6 aluminum, g - 530 copper, g - 240
List of elements containing non-ferrous metals: AP-600M unit; electronic power regulator.
Straight Hose Extension 2
Sprinkler nozzle 3
Clothes nozzle 1 Flap for diffusing and changing the air flow 1
Storage panel for accessories 1
Instruction manual I
4. SAFETY REQUIREMENTS
The double-insulated vacuum cleaner is safe when used correctly. To do this, the following rules must be followed:
When using the vacuum cleaner, make sure that no moisture gets on the connecting cord; the body or the inside of the vacuum cleaner. Move the vacuum cleaner by the handle or hose. IT IS FORBIDDEN:
- disassemble with the vacuum cleaner connected to the network;
- turn on or off the vacuum cleaner with wet hands;
- vacuum up wet debris or spilled liquid;
- simultaneously touch the body of the vacuum cleaner connected to the network and grounded objects (pipelines, heating batteries, gas and electric stoves);
- work without a filter or with a damaged filter, electrical cord, switch or plastic cover;
- block the suction opening of the vacuum cleaner;
- move the vacuum cleaner by the cord;
- operate the vacuum cleaner when there is increased noise, knocking, vibration, and the smell of burning;
- leave the vacuum cleaner energized during long breaks in work.
- operate the vacuum cleaner in damp rooms (baths, saunas).
5. The device of the "Buran 5M" vacuum cleaner or its modification "Buran-5MR"
5.1. The general view of the vacuum cleaner and its components are shown in the figure.
5.2. The electrical schematic diagram is given in the appendix.
Vacuum cleaner accessories - see cover.
6. PREPARATION AND PROCEDURE OF WORK
6.1. When removing dust and cleaning, install the air diffusion damper (8) in the outlet of the cover plate (b). Screw the tip (B) of the hose (I, see cover) into the threaded hole of the inlet flange (P). Put one of the appropriate attachments on the bent tip (A) of the hose (or on straight extensions), depending on the nature of the cleaning. The vacuum cleaner is switched on by moving the switch button (7) according to the symbols:
Straight hose extensions (3) are used to extend the flexible hose and make vacuuming easier. There is an air flow control device on the hose tube. In the process of work, it is necessary to monitor the tight connection of the flexible-hose with the vacuum cleaner and accessories.
6.2. The accessories should be used for their intended purpose - this will ensure the normal operation of the vacuum cleaner and the high quality of its work.
The universal attachment should be used to remove dust from the floor, carpet, walls. The extended brush head is used for cleaning the floor, and the recessed brush head is used for cleaning carpet.
The furniture attachment is designed for cleaning books, radio equipment and furniture.
The clothes attachment is designed for cleaning clothes and upholstered furniture.
The crevice nozzle is convenient for removing dust from crevices in upholstered furniture and many other items with hard-to-reach places for brushes.
The spray nozzle is designed to humidify the air, sprinkle indoor plants.
Work involving splashing liquid should be carried out with a pre-cleaned filter. To spray the liquid, screw the tip (B) of the hose (I) into the outlet of the cover, put the spray nozzle on a 0.5 - 1 liter can. filled with liquid, connect it to the hose nozzle (A) and turn on the vacuum cleaner. To obtain a jet, you need to block the hole in the upper part of the spray nozzle with your thumb.
6.3.Regulation of the electric motor power in the "Buran-5MR" vacuum cleaner is carried out by smoothly turning the control knob to one of three operating modes, the symbols of which correspond to:
III - carpet, floor cleaning, spraying
6.4. In order to increase the service life of the "Buran-5MR" vacuum cleaner, it should be turned on when the control knob (13) of the electronic regulator (14) is set to position I corresponding to the power of 200 W.
6.5. When you turn on the vacuum cleaner, the air suction unit sucks in air along with dust and debris through a hose
and the inlet of the flange inside the dust collector. Further, the air passing through the filter is cleaned, cooling the air intake unit, and exits through the outlet.
6.6. At the end of the work, turn off the vacuum cleaner by moving the switch button, unplug the cord from the socket, wind the cord around the upper case. The last turn of the cord will insert the groove in the plug.
See cover for symbols on control parts and vacuum cleaner attachments.
7. MAINTENANCE
7.1. Timely cleaning of the dust collector from accumulated dust and debris increases the efficiency of the vacuum cleaner, in addition, the accumulated dust is a breeding ground for microorganisms.
When the vacuum cleaner is in operation, observe the indicator that the dust container is full of dust (12). When the information is "red" - the dust collector is full - it is necessary to clean the filter and the dust collector, for which purpose unfold the locks (10) on the body of the vacuum cleaner, remove the upper case (4), remove the cloth filter (3), clean it from dust with a furniture attachment or any a suitable brush with a handle. Shake out debris from the dust container (2) and then wipe it with a damp cloth. It is not recommended to wash the filter. With the information "green" - the dust collector is clean.
7.2. The dust container should be assembled in the reverse order of disassembly.
7.3. After two years of operation in specialized workshops, replenish the lubrication chambers of the unit with CIATIM 202 GOST 11110-75 grease by 2/3 of the free volume. Protect the vacuum cleaner from sharp shocks and jolts during operation.
8. STORAGE RULES
It is necessary to store the vacuum cleaner in a dry room at a temperature not lower than + 1 ° C.
It is advisable to store the accessories in a suspended state of the panel.
Keep the vacuum cleaner clean.
10. CERTIFICATE OF ACCEPTANCE AND SALE
Vacuum cleaner type PN V-600 models:
corresponds to GOST 10280-83 and is recognized as suitable for operation.
(company name trade
11.1. The warranty period for the vacuum cleaner is 24 months from the date of sale through a retail network, provided that the owner observes the operating rules set forth in the operating manual.
11.2. If there is no mark of the trading organization and the date of sale in the operating manual, the warranty period is calculated from the date of release of the vacuum cleaner ANPO "Electromashina" -
11.3. Make warranty repairs to the vacuum cleaner only in warranty workshops.
11.4. In the absence of a warranty workshop in a settlement, warranty repairs are carried out by ANGO "Electromashina".
The vacuum cleaner is sent to ANGO "Electromashina" with its consent in packaging that ensures safety during transportation.
11..5. Vacuum cleaners are not accepted for warranty repairs:
- without operating manual;
- repaired outside the warranty workshop;
- in case of violation of the rules of operation and storage by the consumer -
11.6. ANGO "Elektromashina" does not accept claims about the incompleteness of the vacuum cleaner from individuals. The completeness must be checked in the store.
For information
If the unit fails at the end of the vacuum cleaner's warranty period, you can contact the manufacturer of the AP-600M air intake unit at:
456306, Miass, Chelyabinsk region,
ANGO "Elektromashina" is constantly working on the improvement of vacuum cleaners, therefore, this operating manual may not reflect minor changes made by ANGO "Electromashina" to the design and external design of the vacuum cleaner.
".Set the measuring range to "►▌" on the DMM. Install the "+" probe of the multimeter to the "-" terminal of the diode, and "-" with the probe of the device, check the resistance against the terminals of the diode marked "
". After checking, put the "-" probe of the device on the "+" terminal of the diode, and "+" with the probe of the device also check the resistance of the remaining two diodes with respect to "
»Terminals. If the diode assembly is in good condition, then the resistance value should be about ≈ 400 Ohm, and the resistance value between the “+” and “-” terminals should be about ≈ 700 Ohm (measured with the fan disconnected, FAN connector on the capacitor board). Any discrepancy between the measured values is a defect, the diode must be replaced. SMPS board On the SMPS board, the input diode assembly BD1 is checked as well as the input diode, see paragraph 5.1. The polarity marking is applied on the board in the sequence "+
List of names of motors of cordless tools
I have long wanted to create such a topic. We put motors in the list by name, article - if there is one according to their characteristics and you can attach a photo.
The characteristics can be found by name on the manufacturers' websites:
2N2044
Once upon a time, at a time that our mothers and fathers remember well, a variety of household helpers was considered something very unusual and unusual. And this applies not only to irons, stoves, refrigerators and other household appliances, but vacuum cleaners as well. Judge for yourself. If today numerous manufacturers offer as many as four types of vacuum cleaners, such as: dry cleaning devices, washing machines, with aquafilters and even robotic units, then in the country of "advice" the designs of vacuum cleaners were quite simple and differed only in that they were either manual or universal floor-standing. But, despite this, at one time they were all in great demand and were considered a truly valuable acquisition that could emphasize the status of the family.
Of course, today, upon discovering a similar unit in an old barn in the country, many will smile and say: "And how did people live without modern, lightweight and very effective household appliances?" However, it should be noted that Soviet-assembled household appliances, such as, for example, vacuum cleaner Buran functioned for dozens of years without any repairs, and many that have survived to this day are working quite well. It would seem that they are bulky, clumsy and very noisy at work, due to their simple design, if they needed repair, then in very insignificant, always serving their owners regularly.
In fact, analogs of vacuum cleaners were invented even before the revolution. So, the first dust collectors were put into production in the thirties and were considered a "breakthrough" in the world of household appliances. But they became available to the "masses" only in 1952. The first unit that Soviet citizens got to know was the Pioneer vacuum cleaner. Its power was only 120 watts. Of the equipment, only a brush made of horsehair was attached to it. There was also a dust collector, a filter bag, which was attached to the handle. The engine of the apparatus was cooled thanks to the holes in the body. The first household vacuum cleaner was heavy, unwieldy, and certainly not as efficient as today's models.
Today everyone knows that the best model of a vacuum cleaner is the one that sucks and retains dust most effectively. At
Vacuum cleaners Buran were the real favorites and dreams of women. Their design was copied from Western counterparts manufactured by Electrolux. Such devices were used not only for cleaning premises, but also, at the suggestion of "folk craftsmen" for catching mosquitoes and even for whitewashing ceilings and much more.
The reliability of the Buran vacuum cleaners was undeniable: Soviet models were produced with a quality mark and were tested by the Quality Control Department. All details of such structures were made of durable metal, and the assembly of the apparatus was carried out by hand. Of course, the units were quite heavy and very noisy. But at the same time, only a short circuit in the electrical network, a burst hose, or a fall from a great height could disable them.
However, despite their demand, even in the years of "glory", vacuum cleaners were produced in limited quantities. History knows examples when 800 thousand units were produced in a year, which, in comparison with the current figures, is just fun.
As mentioned earlier, the design of Soviet-assembled vacuum cleaners was rather primitive. Therefore, the principle of operation was also not very complicated. The electric motor of the vacuum cleaner, connected to the mains, began to rotate at a speed of 12 thousand to 18 thousand rpm. a fan rotated along with it, the purpose of which was to create a strong vacuum in the air inside the vacuum cleaner. The end result of this action was the formation of an air flow, along with which particles of debris and dust were sucked into the unit. At the same time, the intake air flows around the lower part of the engine and, being freed from dust particles and debris, passes through the fabric filter and then through the fan to the outside.
For example, the Buran 5M vacuum cleaner is a household model for dry cleaning of premises. With its help it was possible to carry out such operations as:
cleaning the room;
cleaning carpets;
whitewashing of walls.
The model belongs to vortex vacuum cleaners, in which the sucked-in air swirls at the inlet. In this case, large particles of dust and small debris settle in the lower part of the case, without clogging the filter. In this type of vacuum cleaner, the electric motor is located vertically, which is why "Buran" has a body in the form of a bowl made of metal.
As mentioned earlier, the design of the unit, in comparison with modern models, is so simple that the technical characteristics of the Buran vacuum cleaner fit into several lines. The power consumption of the device is 600 W; dust-cleaning capacity on the floor - 96, on the carpet - 88. Weight of the vacuum cleaner - 7 kg.
The main working part of the vacuum cleaner is the air suction unit, which consists of a fan driven by an electric motor. In addition to the main parts, the structure is also equipped with a flexible corrugated hose and a set of special nozzles. The design contains two fabric filters, which are made of calico and velveton, which need to be cleaned every time after using the vacuum cleaner.
Despite the simplicity of the design, as well as the fact that Soviet models are practically "unkillable" and the repair of the blizzard vacuum cleaner is rarely necessary, there are a number of simple rules, adhering to which you can extend the life of the device for an infinitely long time, and if you really want it, you can use it and today.
The filters of the vacuum cleaner should be cleaned of dust every time after using the unit.
Filters in Buran made of corduroy cannot be washed.
When installing the filter after cleaning in the workplace, make sure that the surface of the filter that faces the electric motor is clean, since dust, falling on the working motor, is again scattered through the air.
If the vacuum cleaner is used for a long time, it is important to know that after every hour it needs a break of 10-15 minutes (to cool the electric motor).
The carbon brushes of the engine are completely worn out after 300 hours of operation, after which they should be replaced.
When replacing brushes, it is also recommended to wipe the motor manifold with a cloth soaked in gasoline.
Such a simple job as replacing brushes can be done independently, but if a more serious breakdown occurs, the unit should be restored to its operability in a repair shop.
Vacuum cleaners Buran today are called by many a rarity. Compared to modern light and convenient models with a wide variety of built-in functions, such a device, of course, looks awkward. But, meanwhile, the unit feels great, for example, in the country, and quite copes with minimal tasks. And if you are suddenly overwhelmed by curiosity, or an urgent need to test the "old man" (to clean up the premises with his help) - this information is for you:
debris often gets stuck inside the corrugated hose, so before using the unit for its intended purpose, check the device by attaching it to the inlet flange;
so that during the operation of the vacuum cleaner dust does not enter the room, be sure to insert the end of the hose into the inlet of the device;
for operation, the Buran vacuum cleaner needs power supply from a network with an alternating current of 220 V;
the power consumption of the vacuum cleaner is 140-600 W;
the vacuum cleaner will take up less space if its case is made in the form of a pouf, which can be used to decorate any living space.
The Buran brand, which once produced the famous vacuum cleaners, functions to this day. And, although the production of household vacuum cleaners has been stopped for today, the company's products are quite well-known. The main field of activity of the brand at the moment is the development and production of tools for household use, as well as several types of goods for professional use. So, among the manufactured products, such tools as: perforators, drills, grinders, screwdrivers, jigsaws, circular saws and much more are in special demand among consumers. At the same time, as before, the main criteria in production are the use of the best materials and constant quality control. At the moment, Buran power tools are made from the best metal alloys, which makes them reliable assistants in everyday life. The range of the company is constantly expanding and is the best option that the modern domestic market can offer, both for amateurs and professionals.
The production of TM Buran products is carried out in Chelyabinsk. At the same time, a quality guarantee for a period of 12 months is provided for each power tool, as well as post-warranty repair and maintenance. The company's products are quite well-known for their quality in the vastness of the post-Soviet space, therefore, branches and stores of this brand are in many cities.
VIDEO As for the "legendary" Buran vacuum cleaner, today, in the light of various new models, it can only be of value among lovers of antiquity and all kinds of Soviet-made products. Although, there are many models that are still in working order. With regards to spare parts, you cannot find them in specialized stores, but you can easily find what you want on the Internet.
When you repair your vacuum cleaner, you can replace the motor, the armature in the motor, and the carbon brushes. For example, consider the repair of the Buran vacuum cleaner. First you need to disassemble the vacuum cleaner.To do this, open the folding locks and remove the dust container. Remove the cloth filter with O-ring. Unscrew the 4 screws connecting the upper housing to the intermediate housing.
The engine must be replaced as follows. Remove fan assembly with motor. Remove the lower cup and unscrew the nut for securing the turbines on the armature shaft, having previously secured the armature from turning. Remove the washers, lower turbine, shim and bushing from the armature shaft. Remove the upper cup, remove the shim, upper turbine and bushing from the armature shaft. Replace the motor with a new one and reassemble the vacuum cleaner upside-down.
When replacing the armature, separate the motor from the fan assembly as when replacing the motor. Unscrew the two caps from the brush holders and remove the carbon brushes. Loosen the three screws securing the end shield to the motor housing. Remove the clips of the terminals of the stator coils from the brush holders, unsolder the other two terminals of the stator coils from the capacitors and remove the end shield. Remove the washer with the oil seal from the seat of the end shield. Unscrew the two screws and remove the condensing unit from the end shield. Remove the two screws from the motor housing at the free end of the armature shaft.
Remove the armature with ball bearings from the stator. Using a puller, remove the bearing and washer (from the collector side), as well as the thrust plate (from the free end of the shaft) from the armature shaft. Replace the oil seal or bearing if necessary. Install a new anchor and assemble the motor, and then the vacuum cleaner in reverse order. When installing the end shield on the motor housing, make sure that the marks on the end shield and on the motor housing match.
In order to replace the carbon brushes, you need to open the locks on the case, remove the dust container and filter. Unscrew the 4 screws connecting the upper and intermediate casing. Unscrew the brush holder caps and remove the carbon brushes. Put on new brushes and assemble the vacuum cleaner.
As we have already seen, there are a great many brands of washing machines. But for example, let's take the SM-1 "Baby" washing machine. The unit is a plastic tank with a tight lid, on which an electric motor is mounted, placed in a protective plastic casing. If the machine does not work when plugged in, then first you need to make sure that the cord is working properly. It is either repaired or replaced with a new one. If a malfunction is found in the machine itself, you must first disassemble it, having previously familiarized yourself with some of the features of the device (Fig. 80).
Rice. 80. The device of the washing machine "Baby":
Disassembly of the casing should be carried out, observing some rules. The scheme of actions should be as follows. First you need to remove the lid from the tank. Then, on the back of the casing, find a hole masked by a decorative plug. This plug must be removed, and then the activator must be turned so that the holes in the casing and the impeller of the electric motor are aligned (Fig. 81). Take a long-shank screwdriver and thread it through both holes. When the screwdriver rests against the rotor of the electric motor, it should be locked by holding it with one hand. With the other hand, you need to turn the activator, rotating it effortlessly in both directions.
Sometimes there is a malfunction of this kind: the machine hums when turned on, but the activator remains stationary. After a few seconds of this operation, the thermal relay switches off the electric motor.The reason may be the simplest: threads are wound on the shaft, torn pieces of fabric, or small buttons, coins, etc. are stuck. To eliminate this malfunction, you need to clean the shaft, and then twist it with light movements. If the rotation is smooth, there is no stopping, then the activator can be assembled in the reverse order. After that, you need to try to start the car. Usually no further disassembly is required.
To further dismantle the washing machine, you will need a special device that can be made at home. To do this, you need to take a steel bar with a diameter of 15-18 mm and two screws with a diameter equal to the diameter of the holes in the activator body. Make two holes in the bar, screw the screws into them. A half-inch piece of pipe is also suitable for this purpose. It also needs to drill two holes for the screws. Fasten the screws from the outside with nuts. Using the above-described tool, remove the activator body, separate the motorized casing from the tank of the machine. Remove the six casing screws and remove the O-ring flange assembly (figure 82).
Rice. 83. Dismantling the unit with electrical equipment:
After removing the flange unit, it is necessary to dismantle the bushing from the shaft, which has a set of spacer washers. Remove the decorative plugs from the casing, unscrew the screws connecting the casing half-bodies, and remove the curly nuts (Fig. 83). After that, separate the half-shells, remove the rubber seals. Now you can start repairing the electrical equipment of the machine.
When the machine is plugged in, but no hum is heard, then the contact is probably broken, the cord inside the casing is broken, the installation wires are damaged, or there are problems in the motor windings. In addition, the time relay or thermal relay fails.
The entire electrical circuit must be checked with a probe or ohmmeter. When the contacts are loosened, they must be tightened; if moisture gets on them and rust occurs, the contacts are cleaned, dried and the screws are tightened again. If necessary, replace screws with stripped threads.
Sometimes it becomes necessary to replace the switch. First, unscrew the plastic cap and metal nut, then remove the spring washer and place the switch inside the case. The installation wires are disconnected from the switch terminals. If the contacts are burnt, they are cleaned, wiped with a cloth soaked in kerosene, dried and collected in a casing in the reverse order.
Since the most common refrigerators in everyday life are compression refrigerators, for example, consider the repair of the Polyus compression refrigerator.
Replacing the door. Loosen the three screws holding the upper door hinge to the cabinet body. Remove the door from the top and bottom hinge pins. Install the new door with the hole in the lower bearing bush on the pin of the lower hinge. Insert the upper hinge pin into the hole in the upper bearing bush. Adjust the tight fit of the door to the cabinet by moving the upper hinge. The door should turn easily. After testing, tighten the screws.
Replacing the door panel. Remove the door. Remove the 30 screws securing the door panel. Remove the panel with strips and rubber seal. Remove the gasket and strips from the panel. Install the planks on the new panel and drill holes in the panel along the holes in the planks. Place the seal on the panel and place the assembly on the door body. Punch holes in the seal, aligning the holes in the panel and door body, and fix the panel with screws. Mount the assembled door.
Replacing the rubber door seal. Remove the door assembly, panel assembly, and rubber seal from the panel. Put a new seal on the panel. Place the panel assembly on the door body.Make punctures in the seal along the holes in the strips and panel and tighten the screws that secure the panel. The seal must lie flat and free from kinks. Place the door on the refrigerator and check the tightness of the door to the cabinet.
Replacing the lock. Remove the door and door panel assembly. Remove the screw securing the lock body to the door body strip. Turn the lock body 90 ° and remove it from the groove in the strip. Install the new lock body into the groove of the door strip, turn it 90 ° and align the holes in the lock with the holes in the strip. Fasten the lock case with a screw, after putting a spring washer on the screw. Place the panel on the door body. Install the door on the refrigerator and check the operation of the lock and the tightness of the door.
Replacing the refrigeration unit. Remove the two screws securing the condenser to the cabinet brackets. Tilt the condenser carefully so that the outer flange is accessible. Remove the 12 screws securing the outer flange to the back of the refrigerator. Loosen the suction tube and electrical cable from the slot of the sealing sleeve and remove the sleeve. Remove thermal insulation through the rear wall window. Bend the 8 brackets of the inner flange away from the edge of the window and remove the flange from the window in the rear wall of the cabinet. Unscrew the two screws securing the evaporator. Remove the two screws holding the bellows tube holder and bellows tube to the evaporator. Loosen the pins of the evaporator from the holes in the brackets. Loosen the four bolts, then unscrew while supporting the refrigeration unit and remove it.
Insert two pins of the evaporator into the holes of the brackets and fix the evaporator with two screws to the threaded bushings, placing washers under the screw heads. Align the holes in the bracket of the refrigeration unit with the holes in the posts of the rear wall of the cabinet and screw in four bolts, placing spring and simple washers under the bolt heads. From the side of the window, fasten the thermostat bellows tube to the evaporator with two screws, placing the screw heads on the inner wall of the evaporator. Slide the grommet over the refrigeration unit pipe leading to the evaporator. Install the inner flange into the rear wall window from the inside and bend 8 brackets onto the edge of the inner cabinet window from the outside. Install thermal insulation in the window on the rear wall of the cabinet. Insert the sealing sleeve into the socket of the outer flange, insert the suction tube and the wires of the refrigeration unit into the slot of the sleeve.
Then align the holes in the outer flange with the holes in the back of the cabinet and fasten the flange with screws. Carefully guide the condenser up to the two brackets on the cabinet wall so that they fit between the condenser coil tubes. Place the fixing plates on the condenser grid and, aligning the holes of the fixing plates with the holes in the brackets, fix the condenser in two places with screws. When installing the refrigeration unit, the condenser must be level, without distortions; deformation of the tubes is not allowed.
Video (click to play).
Replacing the inner cabinet. Remove refrigeration unit and door assembly. Remove the wiring diagram wires through the window into the inner cabinet. Unscrew the light bulb. Unscrew the 8 screws securing the inner cabinet to the refrigerator body and remove the inner cabinet complete with electrical equipment and thermostat from the refrigerator body. Disconnect the wire from the thermostat terminals and remove it. Remove the switch latch and remove the switch with a wire from the hole on the left wall. Unscrew the screws, nuts securing the bracket and the two strips to the top wall of the inner cabinet. Unscrew the two screws securing the threaded bushings. On the left side panel on the outside of the inner cabinet, unscrew the three screws and remove the plate. Install two strips, bracket and threaded bushings on the new inner cabinet. Install the plate on the left side wall from the outside of the inner cabinet, fixing it with three screws. Install the thermostat and connect the wires to its terminals.Insert the wire with the switch into the hole in the left wall of the inner cabinet and fix the switch with the latch. Place the inner cabinet in the refrigerator body and tighten 8 screws. Install the refrigeration unit and door assembly.
