Do-it-yourself Rolsen vacuum cleaner repair

Regardless of the type of vacuum cleaner, the heart is called the engine. Television programs like to depict the creation of a vacuum, which, in our opinion, is an inept manipulation of words. The motor draws in air by the blade, the filter keeps the moving parts from dust. Each bearing is equipped with an insert for this purpose. The engine has no protection from vacuum ... Do-it-yourself repair of a vacuum cleaner is advisable when the heart of the device is functioning properly, there is a need to replace, modify the brushes, lubricate the bearings. It is charming that the devices are similar from the inside, like two drops of water. The mechanical part, the device for collecting dust, filters, brushes, hoses, housings vary. Accessories are an essential part of the appliance. The device of the vacuum cleaner, the basic idea remains the same!

The heart of the vacuum cleaner is rightly called a motor, traditionally a collector motor. Let's take a quick look at the design of an irreplaceable product and create a clear idea. In an asynchronous motor, a rotating field is created by correctly distributing the phases by the windings, the winding collector commutes in series. There are unpopular exceptions. The direction of movement is determined by the direction of engagement:

1. The current flows, the fields work for attraction.
2. The current flows, the fields are repelled.

As for the question why the rotor turns exactly in this direction, not opposite when connecting the windings unidirectionally, the answer is revealed by the mutual arrangement of the brushes and stator coils, the structure of the collector. The number of coils is wound on the armature, equal to the number of contact pads of the shaft. The brushes feed a single winding at a time. Then the shaft rotates a certain angular distance, the next coil is energized. One revolution passes, the cycle begins anew.

Imagine the stator pole (so far only one - not two), located at the bottom. Suppose, at the initial moment of time, the brushes are set so that the armature pole is fed to the left of the building axis. Then, due to repulsion, the shaft begins to describe the hour hand. The axis passes the angular distance, the current begins to flow around the next winding, which managed to take the place of the previous one. This happens as long as the current exists. And there is no difference, constant or variable. The collector motor will run driven by the direction of the field. The speed of rotation is not determined by the frequency - by the design of the mechanical part, by the magnitude of the voltage.

Now if the fields are attracted, the rotation will start counterclockwise. By the time the stator and rotor poles become opposite each other, the power will be transferred to the next coil, which will begin to create the required force. The cycle is circular. Now the coils. Brush motors are equipped with a pair of stator windings for direct current, because the alternating current encounters too much resistance from the inductors. This is why some brushed motors are designed with separate stator leads. It will allow you to use one instead of two windings. It is clear that the load capacity drops significantly. But losses are decreasing.

In a vacuum cleaner on the motor stator, we notice two diametrically opposite windings that help each other. Mutually beneficial coexistence is ensured by the correct direction of inclusion (wrote above). Reversing motors have a special power relay that switches the poles in proper order. For comparison, in an induction motor, a similar relay distributes the voltage phases in a different way. It turns out a reverse.The collector motor does not require a starting winding and a capacitor (one phase), which try to imitate the second winding. Simply put, the efficiency of three-phase asynchronous motors is higher. The brainchilds of Nikola Tesla and Dolivo-Dobrovolsky are used by industrial equipment, in the 90s they were replaced by collector equipment from household appliances (vacuum cleaners were traditionally supplied with graphite brushes before the restructuring).

Two brushes are used to transfer current to the armature. The difference is leveled, where the plus, where the minus, the direction is provided by the correct commutation.

Is it possible, by changing the order of connecting the brushes, to make the motor rotate in the opposite direction. The polarity of the field is reversed. This technique is used to obtain a constant voltage reverse. When doing self-repair of vacuum cleaners, remember the correct position of the contacts.

A tangential fan is hidden behind the filters for coarse and fine air purification. Air enters in the center, is discharged to the periphery, moving forward, enters the room through a HEPA filter that traps particles of a few microns (micrometers) in size. The blade is covered with a cover, the part is made in the form of curved aluminum partitions between two metal planes. Closed channels are obtained. The engine is enclosed by a plastic casing (traditionally white), in which the outlet flow path is cut.

It is interesting! Due to the presence of a tangential fan, the efficiency of the vacuum cleaner barely reaches 20-30%. With a power consumption of 1600 W, the suction will be 350 W.

Brushes are fixed in mines, it is good for beginners to know: this is a typical pencil graphite (carbon, coal). You can, if necessary, sharpen the parts, adjust as needed, so that they become in place. If the area of ​​contact with the collector is small, it is not scary, gradually the brushes will wear in. The tips are slightly grinded in a semicircle inward. Each brush is pressed by a spring through which the current passes, the measure will provide a long service life to the products. The carbon will work until it wears down to the ground. However, the copper collector must be kept clean. Wipe with your favorite product if necessary, remove the oxide film to a coppery shine.

The shaft is attached to the stator with two bearings. Different sizes to make it easier to disassemble the vacuum cleaner motor. The front bearing is large and the rear bearing is small. The shaft is carefully knocked out of the stator by suitable means (pneumatic puller), moderate heating helps. The bearings are equipped with anthers. Although the vacuum cleaner creates a vacuum, dirt gets in there too. The anthers are carefully removed with a screwdriver if necessary to lubricate the parts. Suitable: composition HADO, Litol - 24, EP - 2. The grease is put inside, the boot is put in place.

Do-it-yourself vacuum cleaner repair begins by removing the case. In each case, the methods are different. Filters blocking access to the engine are removed. The electrical installation is disconnected (the vacuum cleaner is unplugged), the plastic motor housing is unscrewed from the base. Remove the motor from the casing, after which the fan is removed. The nut has a left-hand thread, twist carefully. The fan is followed by a collector-cover, under which the electrical part is hidden. The further course of operations is clear from what was previously read up to the removal of the rotor.

If necessary, the bearings are racked off with a threaded remover or a hydraulic press. Aids are being used. Small balls with a diameter extending into the bearings. It is recommended to flatten on one side so as not to roll. Reverse mounting is done in a similar way. If you hold the armature by the bearing in your hand, the rotation should be fast, quiet, confident. When lubricating, the outer boot is removed, take the trouble to put new spare parts on the same side.

• brushes;
• bearings;
• motor windings;
• power wire;
• fuse.

Other vacuum cleaners have two motors. The second is located on the brush, where it makes the villi move.Cyclonic models use a turbo, moving air does the work. Constructive refinement simplifies the manufacture of the hose, eliminates one big problem when the wire breaks in the thickness of the rubber. Of course, modern means will allow you to accurately determine the location of the incident, it is better to avoid breakage altogether. The idea of ​​the designers, who placed the motor inside the brush, is easy to understand: there is no need to press when cleaning, the weight is decent. Do you like it, decide for yourself. In the opinion of the editors, the brush should be light to make it easier to operate.

Repair of washing vacuum cleaners does not differ from that described above. However, the units contain a pump that supplies water to the hose. We will return to the question in the reviews later. As for the inlet path, the configuration does not differ from the usual one, excluding the presence of a water filter. Most look like dull boxes filled with water. In some vacuum cleaners with an aquafilter, thin streams of water hit the junction of the hose and the body. Primary dust collection is in operation. However, it is difficult to notice the malfunction. It's another matter if the vacuum cleaner is equipped with a self-diagnosis option, which will prompt the location of the breakdown.

The repair of robotic vacuum cleaners is closely related to the field of electronics. There are nothing service mechanisms at all. However, you will find the engine in a reduced size. Most of the functions are implemented in microcircuits, the memory accommodates various programs. Repairing Electrolux vacuum cleaners will seem like child's play compared to the task of adjusting the work of Rumba or Scuba by the American company iRobot (a developer of US army and police automation). A significant disadvantage of robots is the impossibility of cleaning uneven surfaces. Electronic servants lack the ability to create a vacuum ... use a rotating brush to sweep away dust.

The group of the VKontakte channel here you can discuss the video and ask questions. In this video I will show.

I am trying to repair the first Rolsen vacuum cleaner.

In this video, I tried to talk about how you can repair a vacuum cleaner, or rather its winding mechanism.

Before unscrewing, ALWAYS check which thread (which way to unscrew) My partner thread.

How to eliminate the weak traction of the vacuum cleaner.

At the numerous requests of my viewers, I made a video on how to refuel a spring that has jumped out, in a cassette.

For a long time I wanted to disassemble an old vacuum cleaner. It got even better, oddly enough. Collecting for a new camera

Repair of the Saturn vacuum cleaner. How to disassemble and how to ring the wires. A woman can do it. Repair of vacuum cleaners Saturn.

The vacuum cleaner heats up very quickly, poor draft. The reason is a hidden filter. The mesh can not be torn off, it is well washed.

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Is your TV, radio, mobile phone or kettle broken? And you want to create a new topic about this in this forum?

First of all, think about this: imagine that your father / son / brother has an appendicitis pain and you know from the symptoms that it is just appendicitis, but there is no experience of cutting it out, as well as the tool. And you turn on your computer, access the Internet on a medical site with the question: "Help to cut out appendicitis." Do you understand the absurdity of the whole situation? Even if they answer you, it is worth considering factors such as the patient's diabetes, allergies to anesthesia and other medical nuances. I think no one does this in real life and will risk trusting the life of their loved ones with advice from the Internet.

The same is in the repair of radio equipment, although of course these are all the material benefits of modern civilization and in case of unsuccessful repairs, you can always buy a new LCD TV, cell phone, iPAD or computer. And for the repair of such equipment, at least it is necessary to have the appropriate measuring (oscilloscope, multimeter, generator, etc.) and soldering equipment (hairdryer, SMD-hot tweezers, etc.), a schematic diagram, not to mention the necessary knowledge and repair experience.

Let's consider a situation if you are a beginner / advanced radio amateur soldering all sorts of electronic gizmos and having some of the necessary tools. You create an appropriate thread on the repair forum with a short description of “patient symptoms”, ie. for example “Samsung LE40R81B TV does not turn on”. So what? Yes, there can be a lot of reasons for not switching on - from malfunctions in the power system, problems with the processor or flashing firmware in the EEPROM memory.
More advanced users can find the blackened element on the board and attach a photo to the post. However, keep in mind that you are replacing this radio element with the same one - it is not yet a fact that your equipment will work. As a rule, something caused the combustion of this element and it could “pull” a couple of other elements along with it, not to mention the fact that it is quite difficult for a non-professional to find a burned-out m / s. Plus, in modern equipment, SMD radio elements are almost universally used, soldering which with an ESPN-40 soldering iron or a Chinese 60-Watt soldering iron you risk overheating the board, peeling tracks, etc. The subsequent restoration of which will be very, very problematic.

The purpose of this post is not any PR of repair shops, but I want to convey to you that sometimes self-repair can be more expensive than taking it to a professional workshop. Although, of course, this is your money and what is better or more risky is up to you.

If you nevertheless decide that you are able to independently repair the radio equipment, then when creating a post, be sure to indicate the full name of the device, modification, year of manufacture, country of origin and other detailed information. If there is a diagram, then attach it to the post or give a link to the source. Write down how long the symptoms have been manifesting, whether there were surges in the supply voltage network, whether there was a repair before that, what was done, what was checked, voltage measurements, oscillograms, etc. From a photo of a motherboard, as a rule, there is little sense, from a photo of a motherboard taken on a mobile phone there is no sense at all. Telepaths live in other forums.
Before creating a post, be sure to use the search on the forum and on the Internet. Read the relevant topics in the subsections, perhaps your problem is typical and has already been discussed. Be sure to read the article Repair strategy

The format of your post should be as follows:

Topics with the title “Help fix the Sony TV” with the content “broken” and a couple of blurred photos of the unscrewed back cover, taken with the 7th iPhone, at night, with a resolution of 8000x6000 pixels are immediately deleted. The more information you post about the breakdown, the more chances you will get a competent answer. Understand that the forum is a system of gratuitous mutual assistance in solving problems and if you are dismissive of writing your post and do not follow the above tips, then the answers to it will be appropriate, if anyone wants to answer at all. Also note that no one should answer instantly or within a day, say, no need to write after 2 hours “That no one can help”, etc. In this case, the topic will be deleted immediately.
You should make every effort to find a breakdown on your own before you get stumped and decide to go to the forum. If you outline the entire process of finding a breakdown in your topic, then the chance of getting help from a highly qualified specialist will be very great.

If you decide to take your broken equipment to the nearest workshop, but do not know where, then perhaps our online cartographic service will help you: workshops on the map (on the left, press all buttons except “Workshops”). You can leave and view user reviews for workshops.

For repairmen and workshops: you can add your services to the map. Find your object on the map from the satellite and click on it with the left mouse button.In the field “Object type:” do not forget to change to “Equipment repair”. Adding is absolutely free! All objects are checked and moderated. A discussion of the service is here.

Regardless of the manufacturer and type of vacuum cleaner, the main difference lies in quality, power and design.

The most important thing in a vacuum cleaner is the electric motor, which creates a vacuum and, as a result, sucks dust and various particles through special filters through which only air passes.
In different types of such devices, these filters are different, and flasks and just bags and cyclone-type vacuum cleaners.

But it is the engine and, occasionally, the electronic power (rpm) control circuit that requires the most attention in this whole device.

Do-it-yourself engine repair is not difficult to carry out if the breakdown is simple and the engine is still running but you can hear a heavy engine stroke (when turned off) or the engine starts to rattle or buzz strongly, it happens that the vacuum cleaner gets very hot in a short period of time.

The heart of the vacuum cleaner, as we have already figured out, is the engine and, as a rule, the collector.
What is such an engine?
The motor is housed in a housing where the fan impeller blades are hidden. It is of the tangential type, where air is drawn in at the center and exits through the periphery and already exits through the rear filter.
The brushes in the engine are placed in special shafts made of brass, as a rule, this is ordinary carbon in the form of graphite. Over time, the brushes rub against the collector roller, their middle is ground down and they become slightly semicircular, due to which the contact area with the collector pads increases. The brushes in their shafts are pressed by springs, creating the necessary pressure of the graphite, in the process, by the robots, to the collector. The brush will work until it wears off and the spring cannot properly contact the graphite with the manifold.
It is necessary to monitor the cleanliness of the collector shaft itself, clean it from carbon deposits if necessary and remove the oxide layer to a copper sheen.

The shaft is attached to the stator by two bearings of different sizes, as a rule, this is done in order to make it easier to disassemble it. The front is usually large, and the back is smaller.

The shaft is carefully knocked out of the stator using any suitable tools. Then we look at the course of the bearings, because of the dusty robots they get clogged despite the presence of anthers. If necessary, the anthers are carefully removed with a thin screwdriver or an awl, washed with a jet of WD-pulleys, after which the balls must be lubricated, for example, with grease such as Litol-24 or EP-2, after which the boot is put in place and snaps into its grooves in the bearing itself.

To start some kind of repair or maintenance of the vacuum cleaner, you need to remove the case. Each model has its own methods.
First of all, all filters that impede access to the motor are removed, the housing screws are unscrewed, including secret ones (under the buttons, for example). Having unscrewed all the screws, you need to carefully try to disassemble the case, if this fails, take a closer look where there may still be latches or additional screws, if you do not pay attention to this, you can break the case.

Then the entire electrical installation is disconnected, as a rule, the connections are made on the connectors.
The plastic motor housing is unscrewed from the bed and the motor is then removed from its plastic housing.
In some models, it is simpler and the motor itself is fixed in the body of the vacuum cleaner in special rubber grooves-seals or screwed tightly to the general body of the vacuum cleaner.

To disassemble the engine and remove the fan impeller first of all, we will remove the front part of the casing (above the impeller). We take a thin metal object, you can use a screwdriver and gently bend it off the side of the casing so that the screwdriver goes a little into the middle, then gently push the upper part of the casing out, as a result of which the entire impeller becomes available to us.

The nut on the impeller usually has a left-hand thread (but there are exceptions) We try to unscrew it by holding the impeller with our hand, if it scrolls and in this way it is impossible to unscrew the nut, there is one great way
So .. we take a good stranded wire with a cross section of more than 1.5mm in dense rubber insulation (to prevent slipping). We push in such a wiring and wrap the collector shaft 2-3 times, turn to turn and stretch it in different directions, thereby fixing the shaft motionless.

It is most convenient to do this together, one person fixes the collector using the ends of the wire stretched to the sides, and the second unscrews the nut on the fan disk.
The method is very convenient and safe for fixing the anchor. In the same way, when reassembling, tighten the nut.

After removing the fan impeller, unscrew the housing screws; by this time, the brushes should already be removed.

Then carefully pull out the anchor, twisting the upper part slightly if necessary.

If necessary, the bearings are removed using a commercially available tool or special thread pullers. In especially severe cases, the bearing sometimes “sticks” tightly to the sleeve; a special hydraulic press is used to remove the bearings.

• bearings
• brushes
• fuse
• network wire
• no contact in the switch
• motor winding, breakage or burnout of the winding (stator or rotor)
• capacitor failure
• breakdown of the electronic circuit of the power regulator

Drop in power and suction power.
The most common cause is either a clogged filter or a defective bearing.
It is necessary to clean the filter and check the operation again, check also the operation (draft) of the vacuum cleaner without filters, since it happens that ordinary cleaning of the filter does not help and it already needs to be replaced.
If the draft without filters does not give the same working draft, you will have to disassemble the vacuum cleaner, the impeller on it should easily turn with your finger without much effort. Additionally, we remove and inspect the brushes and clean the collector from carbon deposits using zero sandpaper or a piece of ordinary cloth.

In some cases, the tightness of the hose is broken, this can be both a violation of the integrity of the hose itself and the connecting pipes at the ends of the hose, the hose simply slips out of them a little.

The vacuum cleaner does not turn on.
If everything is fine with the voltage in the outlet, disassemble the vacuum cleaner and first of all inspect the fuse and the power cord, especially at the very end of the cord on the winding drum in the soldering points.
If there is a tester, we call for a contact.
The power button could break or the contact is simply broken in it, it sometimes gets clogged, again, with the help of a tester, we make sure that the button is working properly.
If all the elements have been called by the tester and the voltage comes to the engine brushes without problems, and the brushes themselves are not erased, then most likely you will have to repair the engine expensively or simply replace it, since in most cases it is more expedient to install a new motor than to repair a tired old one by rewinding.

If the vacuum cleaner worked for a long time and does not turn on then it is quite possible that the protective thermostat on the engine itself has worked as a result of overheating - in this case, there is nothing to repair, it will be enough to leave the vacuum cleaner to cool the engine.

The speed of the vacuum cleaner motor is not regulated.
The most common cause of such a malfunction is the breakdown of the triac in which the voltage through it is not regulated but freely passes through it without any control. It is possible that this element fails, and it is possible that contact is lost on one of the legs of this element on the board.
By slightly pressing down on the speed regulator knob, you can make sure whether the regulator itself is in good working order or the contact may be broken in it and the regulator slider does not contact its site.

The vacuum cleaner emits a foreign smell and hot air.
First of all, you need to make sure that the suction inlet is not clogged, inspect the hose, check the retraction force at the inlet and whether the sound of the engine changes when you plug the inlet with your palm. In case of satisfactory operation on the part of the suction system, we can assume that the engine is malfunctioning, but most likely the brushes.

The vacuum cleaner hums and rumbles - the reason for this action is the engine, and in particular its bearings. Most likely they need additional lubrication or, if there is a large shaft around their axis, they need to be replaced with new ones.

The cord does not tighten when the button is pressed or is constantly tightened during operation - malfunction of the winding drum, perhaps the spring has burst, is weakened or, on the contrary, is too tight.
We inspect the pressure roller of the button and, if necessary, having removed the drum, we wind up or unwind the wire on the drum - changing the tension of the drum itself to the one we need.

As a rule, it is not complicated and is quite standard in most models.

The design and diagram of the vacuum cleaner provides for the following main devices: an indicator (signaling device) of filling the dust collector with dust or a device for automatically turning off the engine when the dust collector is filled; a device for regulating the power of the electric motor; automatic cord winding device; replaceable single-fill paper filters or dust compactor; air flow control device.

Modern vacuum cleaners also have a built-in filter in which all the dirt and dust accumulates after cleaning the room

For proper engine operation, the vacuum cleaner has a noise suppression circuit on the power chokes. They are used to smooth out high frequency network ripple. After the chokes, the voltage goes to the smoothing capacitor and only then the smoothed voltage is fed to the motor. The capacitor is also designed to smoothly start the vacuum cleaner motor

Almost every vacuum cleaner has a special compartment into which the vacuum cleaner's power cable goes, the length of this cable is about 3 meters

As part of expensive models of vacuum cleaners, there is an electronic control system circuit, a touch-sensitive power regulator and a switch for engine operating modes. The vacuum cleaner should also be equipped with small wheels for easy operation and movement. The diagram shows: 1 - dust bag, 2 - inlet filter, 3 - outlet filter.

The air-intake unit consists of upper 2 and lower 1 housings, shield 5 and an electric motor with a fan device 15. The armature 13 of the electric motor is mounted on two bearings 4 n 9, covered with covers 3. 8. The armature rotates to the left. The stator 12 of the electric motor is fixed on the shield 5 and the upper body 2 with screws 6. In the upper part of the unit on the shield 5 there are brush holders 7 of carbon brushes 11. The brushes are closed with a cap 10. In the lower part of the unit, on the armature shaft, there are impellers 14 of the fan device and secured with a nut sixteen.

The vacuum cleaner does not work or works intermittently - Check the socket outlet by plugging in a table lamp. Check the connecting cord and plug. For testing, use a test lamp, probe or ohmmeter. Connect the breakage point and carefully insulate. Check the switch on the vacuum cleaner. If necessary, disassemble the vacuum cleaner and inspect the switch. Strip and bend the contacts or install a new switch. Inspect carefully the contact connections of the electrical circuit, especially the places of rations and the presence of contacts at the points of connection of wires. Check carbon brushes and engine manifold. If necessary, replace the brushes. Take out the carbon brushes, stretch their springs and install in their old place. Take out the carbon brushes, wrap a cotton swab soaked in alcohol or cologne on the rod and clean the inner surface of the brush holders. Then put the brushes back in place. If the carbon brushes are less than 3 mm long, they must be replaced.Clean the engine manifold with a cloth soaked in alcohol or cologne. Use a match to remove coal dust between the collector plates

The vacuum cleaner works, but weakly sucks up dust... Engine is emitting a higher pitch than usual sound - Check for foreign object in hose. Connect a hose to the outlet and turn on the vacuum cleaner. If that doesn't work, clear the hose with a long, rounded stick. See also the article on what to do if the vacuum cleaner begins to suck up dust poorly

Vacuum cleaner care recommendations... Vacuum cleaners are more likely to fail than other household appliances due to the use of high-speed collector motors. The engine is cooled by the flow of outgoing air and therefore the vacuum cleaner can work only 10-15 minutes without cooling, and 1-2 hours with cooling. After that, if you do not turn off the vacuum cleaner, it may fail. in this regard, when using a vacuum cleaner, you should adhere to a certain mode of operation.

The degree of dustiness of the filter also affects the heating of the engine. For the appliance to work well, you need to clean the filter regularly and store the vacuum cleaner in a dry place. It is not recommended to wash and wet the filter, as this reduces the throughput of the unit, which may cause it to overheat. The vacuum cleaner requires constant maintenance: it is necessary to change the lubricant of the engine bearings at least once every 2 years and annually check the condition of the graphite brushes of the engine

Schematic diagram of the vacuum cleaner LG-V2600, LG-V2620, LG-V2800, LG-V3300, LG-V982, LG-VC7050nt, LG-v-c7070ct

Philips FC8600, HR-6836, HR-8003, hr8731, hr8733, hr8735, hr8745, hr8765, hr8837, hr8838, hr8847, hr8948, hr8978

Vacuum cleaner schemes Samsung SC6657, VC-7700, vc-h110, vc-h113, vah-1113, vc-h114

"Veterok-4" works on the principle of a vacuum cleaner, the diagram of its assembly drawing is shown in the figure:

Vacuum cleaner malfunctions can be roughly divided into two groups: electrical and mechanical. Let's consider several cases. The vacuum cleaner is plugged in, the switch has clicked, but it does not work and does not make the slightest sound. Obviously, no current is being supplied to the motor.

Imagine the current path: socket, plug, cord, and finally the motor windings. Let's start our search from simple to complex. First, let's check with any known working electrical appliance, preferably a table lamp, whether the socket is in order. If the lamp is on, inspect the plug and cord. We are looking for kinks, mechanical damage, we especially carefully inspect the places where the cord enters the plug and into the body of the vacuum cleaner. There should be a rubber ring on the body to protect the cord from abrasion and breakage. If an external inspection does not work, we disassemble the vacuum cleaner and check with an ohmmeter for the presence of conductivity in the veins of the cord from the switch to the plug. We check the switch with an ohmmeter. Defective switches and cords are replaced.

Another case: the vacuum cleaner is plugged in, the switch is clicked, but there are interruptions in operation, arcing of the collector, which can be seen through the discharge hole.

First of all, you need to check carbon brushes 4. Most often it happens that they wear out to the springs and steel springs are already in contact with the collector. In this case, they must be replaced.

To replace the brushes, remove the O-ring 8 and unscrew the screws 3. Take out the brushes by unscrewing the caps 7 and put new ones. Of course, all this is done with the vacuum cleaner disconnected from the network. new brushes are set with bevels against the rotation of the collector.

After installation, it is necessary to grind for better contact of the brushes with the collector. How to do this, see the picture. In this case, not the slightest scratch should be allowed on the stator or armature turns - this will damage the engine! If you could not find your own brushes, feel free to take brushes that are large in size but always of the same brand as your relatives (brushes of the EG-8 brand are well suited for vacuum cleaners). The smaller size is easy to make with a fine-grained file. however, it should be remembered that the brushes should move easily in the brush holder, without the slightest jamming. A slight backlash is even useful - the brushes heat up during operation and the backlash will be removed.

With prolonged use of the vacuum cleaner, the engine manifold becomes “dirty”. For better brush contact, it is useful to wipe it with solvent or alcohol.

It is not recommended to grind the collector with sandpaper, as during grinding corundum particles remain in the collector, which sharply accelerates the wear of the brushes.

When the engine is running, a so-called varnish forms on the collector surface - a mixture of carbon brushes and collector copper. With the polish created, the brushes wear out the slowest. Grinding the manifold will destroy polish and the brushes will wear out quickly before new polish forms.

Sometimes collector arcing occurs with normal brushes. This can be caused by the following reasons: turn-to-turn short circuit in the armature or stator winding and increased load on the motor.

If you spin the armature with good bearings, it should make at least 10-15 revolutions without crunching. The noise of the bearings should be even, there should be no backlash.

The turn-to-turn circuit in the armature or stator winding is usually characterized by a very strong, usually circular, sparking, most often together with the smell of insulation.

First you need to try to determine where the turn-to-turn closure occurred. First of all, we examine the anchor. The windings must be free of insulation swelling and blackening. Smell it, there should be no smell of burning insulation. Inspect the collector, sometimes there are short circuits between the plates, this can be seen with the naked eye. If the above signs are present, then the case is bad. Vacuum anchors are hard to find. And rewinding anchors is a complicated matter and only very qualified wrappers can do it. Therefore, most often the service life of rewound anchors is short.

A short circuit in the stator winding is quite simple to determine - you need to remove the brushes and measure the resistance of the stator winding (OB) 1 and 2, as well as the resistance between the case and the windings. The difference between the resistances of winding 1 and winding 2 should be extremely insignificant, they should not ring to the body. If the difference is significant (> 10%), the one with the lower resistance is changed. It is easy to wind it yourself.

Therefore, when disassembling the vacuum cleaner, we must mark the relative position of the traverse of the brush holder and the body. If not marked, you can go the other way. We loosen the traverse and slowly turn it, fix it, achieving the least sparking. If there is an ammeter, turn the traverse, achieving the lowest no-load current. It is strongly not recommended to do this on the move - when starting, the engine will jump out of your hands and the traverse will shift by itself. Also, the engine must not be turned on without a fan attached. The peculiarity of vacuum cleaner motors is such that they always have to work under load. Otherwise, it may break from repairs.

When assembling the vacuum cleaner, check if you have left a nut, screw or other object in it: getting into the fan, they can completely destroy it. After all, the fan discs are made of duralumin with a thickness of about 0.8 mm.

Sometimes, during disassembly, the fan discs bend and then cling to the case. In this case, when assembling, a washer must be placed under one of the discs. In this case, the suction vacuum drops. Therefore, it is necessary to disassemble the vacuum cleaner very carefully and do not bend anything.

What are the most common mechanical failures?

The vacuum cleaner works, but the created vacuum has decreased, it sucks in dust very weakly. The engine emits a higher pitch than usual. This means that there is an obstacle in the path of the sucked air. There may be a foreign object in the hose. It can be removed by attaching a hose to the outlet. If this does not help or the design of the vacuum cleaner does not allow it, the hose is cleaned with a long wooden strip with a rounded end or a piece of thick wire with a hook.

The vacuum cleaner is deservedly considered the most popular item of household appliances. Most homeowners today can no longer imagine their life without a vacuum cleaner, because it saves time and also helps to keep the house tidy and clean.Do-it-yourself vacuum cleaner repair, like the rest of household appliances, is a common practice, because all appliances have a sad tendency to break. The cause of breakdown, as a rule, is the wear of parts, as well as the destruction of mechanisms. But a breakdown of a vacuum cleaner does not always mean that it is necessary to purchase a new one, because it is quite possible to repair this technique with your own hands.

• Typically, the reason your vacuum cleaner is out of order is due to engine failure. A similar breakdown occurs in almost all models and brands of the device, regardless of the manufacturer. According to certain signs and features of the device, you can diagnose a malfunction and try to repair the vacuum cleaner with your own hands.

Important! The main and first sign of a malfunctioning engine is a strong hum, as well as the appearance of a dust cloud during the operation of the device.

• Insufficient suction power or a complete absence indicates a breakdown of the hose. Another important sign that the tightness of the hose has been compromised is the weak and quiet operation of the device. In this case, the situation is much simpler - read how to repair a vacuum cleaner hose with your own hands.

Important! In addition to breakdown, the receiving brush can also be damaged in the corrugation.

• Slow suction speed, as well as a drop in operating speed, are caused by bearing failure. Proof that these particular components are out of order is the periodic restoration of operation to normal mode.
• Excessive hum during proper operation indicates that the engine has failed. In most cases, malfunctions in the motor affect the suction power of the air currents.

Important! Often the cause of problems with household appliances and their failure are voltage drops in the power grid. To eliminate this factor in the future, find out which one is better to choose a surge protector for household appliances.

Regardless of what the cause of the malfunction is, you need to know how to disassemble the device in order to repair the vacuum cleaner with your own hands:

• Remove the sealing grid located directly under the dust compartment cover. This cover is secured with two screws or other threaded connections. It is necessary to unscrew the screws using a screwdriver with the required section, clockwise.
• After removing the sealing grill, detach the control unit as well as the dust container cover.
• Depending on the model and configuration of the vacuum cleaner, the dust collector is either simply removed or unscrewed. There is a waste collection system under the dust collector, under which the body is connected directly to the engine.
• To access the motor, separate the housing from the base of the instrument.

Important! In certain models, this becomes realizable only after unscrewing the secret screw, which is hidden directly in the handle.

• The engine itself is protected by a special rag gasket, which is attached directly to the inlet of the intake hose. Remove the gasket and clean it; if necessary, you can replace the gasket with a new one.
• Remove the wires that supply power from the motor. To remove the wires, you will have to unscrew the screw terminals.

The first thing that an experienced foreman will do, regardless of the manufacturer (Bosch, LG, Electrolux, Rainbow), is to check the bearing pairs: upper, lower. The bearings are responsible for the performance of the motor. In addition to the bearings, it is also important to check the integrity of the armature and motor brush.

• Incorrect roller position. It is necessary to check whether the height of the roller to the surface to be cleaned is correctly set.
• The brush is worn out. Inspect the brush itself and check the length of the bristles on the roller itself. If the wear exceeds the norm, then replace the roller brush with a new one.

• The belt is torn. Disassemble the vacuum cleaner and then replace the belt with a new one that exactly fits your vacuum cleaner.
• Roller bearings are seized. Remove the brush roller and then remove the end caps. At each end, check for hair or thread on the bearings.

• Belt slips. Check the tension with which the belt is tensioned. If the belt is loose, replace it with a new one.
• Check your bearings for ease of rotation of the roller brush. If it does not rotate well, replace it or lubricate it.

1. The plug is not plugged into the outlet. Check if the plug is firmly plugged into your outlet. And also you should make sure that there is voltage directly in the outlet.
2. No electricity. Check the power panel, quite often you can see a knocked-out circuit breaker or blown fuses there.
3. The plug or fuse is defective. Check that the plug is connected correctly, as well as the fuse that is built into the plug, if any.
4. Broken power cord. It is imperative to check the power cord; for this, disassemble the vacuum cleaner, find the place where the end of the cord is plugged in and ring its cores to determine if it is broken. Replace it if necessary.

Important! If the problems turned out to be very serious and the repair will cost about the same as the purchase of new equipment, it makes sense to go the second way. And to make it easier for you to choose, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the publications, which describe in detail: