In detail: repair of a samsung vacuum cleaner do it yourself engine repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Thanks to household appliances, home owners gain full comfort - the use of the same vacuum cleaners significantly reduces the physical activity spent on cleaning an apartment or a private house.
Meanwhile, even high-tech equipment does not last forever, which says one thing - sometime the time comes for repair or replacement. True, convenient and practical products, for example, from Samsung, quickly make users get used to working with them.
Therefore, it is the repair of Samsung vacuum cleaners that their owners see as a priority decision in relation to the complete replacement of faulty devices.
Most of the models of cleaning household appliances of the Korean company are represented by designs that are relatively simple in technical terms. Accordingly, in most cases, the repair of such products is also quite simple.
Obviously, the complexity of the repair work is fully correlated with a specific unit or part. So, it is much easier to fix a small break in a corrugated hose than to replace a broken motor bearing.
Consider the frequently occurring malfunctions of Korean-made household vacuum cleaners and possible ways to eliminate such defects at home.
It is logical to note: with all due respect to service workshops, the amount of payment for services for repairs in the service often approaches the cost of a new vacuum cleaner.
Minor defects usually do not cause a global malfunction of the device. The Samsung vacuum cleaner continues to work, but the technical parameters no longer correspond to the exemplary values.
Video (click to play).
As a result, the traction force decreases and at the same time the power consumption of the equipment increases. Accordingly, the quality of cleaning decreases, but most importantly, the risks of more serious defects appear.
Therefore, minor faults should not be ignored. On the contrary, they should be eliminated as soon as possible.
Classic defects of this kind for Samsung vacuum cleaners:
decrease in the efficiency of the HEPA filter;
clogging of the cyclone filter mesh;
blocking of the brush turbine with foreign objects;
blocking the rotation of the wheels by foreign elements;
blockage of the rod tube;
rupture of the corrugated hose.
Let's consider each separate group of defects in more detail.
As a rule, all existing models of Samsung cleaning equipment are equipped with multi-service filtering components.
That is, after each cleaning, the owner of the device removes the filters, rinses, blows and returns them to their place. The cyclicity is multiple.
However, the filter material cannot be thoroughly cleaned. With each cleaning, the pores of the material are clogged with microscopic particles more and more.
Finally, the moment comes when the filter loses its air transmission efficiency to 50% and below. This is already a limit that violates the technological principle of the vacuum cleaner's operation.
The motor continues to run at full throttle, but the resistance on the suction and discharge side increases the load. Currents increase, the winding and, accordingly, the parts of the electric motor are very hot.
If you continue to operate the equipment in this state, the day is not far off when the motor will simply jam or burn out.
Which exit? Of course, complete replacement of filter elements at all stages, including the HEPA filter. Usually any type of filter material (foam rubber, porous sponge, cyprone) is available commercially.
It's a little more complicated with the HEPA material, but here you can also find a way out.That is, the user just needs to buy the right material, cut out the elements of the required size and use them instead of the material that has lost its operational quality.
Putting a homemade version of the HEPA filter is somewhat more difficult. You will need to carefully open the double mesh frame (usually the frame is made of plastic) in order to remove the filter material for replacement.
It is necessary to cut the mating area of the two plates around the perimeter with a sharp clerical knife, after which, with a slight effort, divide the frame into two parts. Next, replace the HEPA sheet with a new one and glue the frame-holder again.
The same applies to the mesh filter and the motor protection filter used in cyclone models.
Both the first and the second filters are tightly clogged with dirt, by the way, through the fault of users who violate the container filling mode above the specified label. There are cases of blockage of the rod tube. Clogs are removed by cleaning.
The accessory connecting the inlet of the vacuum cleaner and the tube-rod with the working attachment - a corrugated soft hose, is damaged at the points of soft folds due to wear of the material or as a result of loads applied to this point.
Traditional points of damage are the joints of the hose with the nozzle-lock or with the nozzle of the tube-rod.
The repair process in such cases is not particularly difficult. It is enough to cut the hose a little further from the place of the burst and carefully remove the remnants from the inside of the branch pipe (factory fasteners are glued).
The inside of the nozzle is usually threaded just right for winding the hose. Along this thread, the cut off hose is simply screwed into the pipe and the repair can be considered complete.
Practice has shown that there is no need for any additional fasteners with the help of glue.
If a gust has formed in the central part of the corrugated hose (or, for example, you need to lengthen the accessory), in such cases it is convenient to use a piece of rubber tube from the bicycle tire.
In terms of size and taking into account the tight fit, such a material is ideal. Previously, parts of the hose are cut and glued, and then a rubber coupling from a bicycle tire is pulled over the created joint. A sleeve with a width of 30-40 mm also "sits" on the glue.
These malfunctions are inherent in mechanisms such as the brush turbine, and also (occasionally) the wheel chassis. Both units have rotating parts - shafts, gears, rings. During cleaning, hair, threads and even thin small metal wires inevitably fall into the area of these knots.
These particles of debris wind up on the shafts of gears, rings, wheels and over time accumulate in such a large amount that they completely block rotational movement.
Such moments also affect the operation of the vacuum cleaner, increase the load on the engine, force the user to increase traction forces on the corrugated hose, which is damaged in places of folds.
In this condition, the first step is to unblock the movement of the nodes. The turbo brush must be disassembled (disassembled by the manufacturer) and the inner area must be thoroughly cleaned.
To access the interior of the large wheels of the vacuum cleaner, you will have to remove the casing by unscrewing a few screws from the bottom. Both actions are quite accessible for doing it yourself.
Repair of serious defects usually requires specialist intervention. However, here, too, some of the faults are available for DIY repair. For example, the owner can easily replace a faulty power switch himself.
A faulty power switch does not allow the device to be turned on, or when turned on, there is no fixation of the operating mode. In the first case, the reaction when the button is activated is zero.
In the second case, the vacuum cleaner starts when the key is pressed, but turns off immediately when the user releases the button.
The operability of the mains switch is easy to check with a tester - an electromechanical device. Inoperative button does not create contact between terminals in any position.
A non-latching button creates contact only in the depressed position. By connecting the tester probes to the button terminals, you can check the functionality of all positions.
In addition to the network switching, the supply cable of the vacuum cleaner may also be faulty. The power cord is checked with the same tester.
Checking the power cord also involves testing the power outlets that the owner is using, while running the vacuum cleaner.
Many Samsung models are equipped with a suction power control module. In fact, this module is the speed regulator of the shaft of the electric motor installed inside the vacuum cleaner.
The module is an electronic circuit (relatively simple) based on thyristors.
A module malfunction - usually a thyristor failure - entails either the inability to start the vacuum cleaner, or a complete inability to regulate the performance of the device.
In any case, disassembly of the vacuum cleaner, dismantling of the regulation module and replacement of components that are out of order are required.
It is quite problematic here to work with your own hands without having certain skills, for example, the ability to distinguish a resistor from a capacitor or the ability to hold a soldering iron in your hands. However, if desired, these qualities of an electronics engineer are easy to master.
A complex malfunction, of course, is the failure of the electric motor of the vacuum cleaner. As a rule, in the structure of modern household appliances manufactured under the Samsung brand, axial-type motors are used, the rotational speed of which reaches 20,000 rpm.
Rotation at such a high frequency is accompanied by significant loads on the journal bearings. Therefore, one of the most common malfunctions of Samsung vacuum cleaners is a defect in the bearings. This is usually accompanied by an increased noise of the device, sometimes very loud.
Do-it-yourself work on replacing vacuum cleaner bearings is difficult, but quite doable. However, initially you will have to disassemble all the contents of the construction of the harvesting equipment in order to get to the motor.
Of course, in the process of disassembling the vacuum cleaner, it is recommended to fix the sequence of installing the parts, writing down on paper, or you can take pictures with a smartphone.
On a dismantled engine, you will need to remove the contact brushes and the impeller guard. This process is relatively straightforward.
Contact brushes are usually fixed with one screw and can be easily removed from the mounting recesses. On the impeller casing (outer half), carefully bend the four rolling points and apply some force to pull off the casing.
The most difficult process is unscrewing the nut that secures the impeller to the motor shaft. Craftsmen "with their own hands" use different methods for these purposes:
clamp the engine manifold with wooden chocks;
an insulated wire is wound around the collector;
sawing a groove along the end of the shaft.
As a result, the impeller can be removed. Further - "a matter of technology" - the shaft is removed by the traction force, and the defective bearings change. Then reassemble in reverse order.
Electrical defects of motors - breakage, turn-to-turn short circuit of the winding, collector burn-through - are relatively rare phenomena, but they also take place. In such cases, the electric motor is usually changed to another (new) instance.
On the topic of repairing a corrugated hose, you can watch a video where the author talks about all the nuances of this simple operation for a home master:
The method of cutting a groove along the end of the shaft when disassembling the engine from a vacuum cleaner is described in detail in the following video: