In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a Vitek vacuum cleaner from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Repairing vacuum cleaners, like other household appliances, is a common practice, since all appliances tend to break. The cause of breakdown is most often the wear of parts and the destruction of mechanisms. However, a breakdown of a vacuum cleaner does not always mean that you need to buy a new one, since it is quite possible to repair such equipment with your own hands.
The vacuum cleaner is rightfully considered the most popular piece of household appliances. Most housewives today can no longer imagine their life without a vacuum cleaner, since it significantly saves time and helps to keep the house clean and tidy.
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In most cases, the motor is the cause of the vacuum cleaner's failure. Such a breakdown occurs with almost all brands and models of the device, regardless of the manufacturer. By the characteristic signs and features of the device, you can diagnose a problem and try to repair the vacuum cleaner with your own hands.
- The first sign of a malfunctioning engine is a hum and the appearance of a dusty cloud during the operation of the device.
- Insufficient suction power or its complete absence indicates that the hose is out of order. Another sign that the tightness of the hose is broken is the quiet operation of the device. In addition to breakdown in the corrugation, the receiving brush can be damaged.
- Slow suction speed and a drop in operating speed can be the result of bearing failure. Proof of failure of these particular components is the periodic restoration of normal operation.
- Excessive hum during proper operation indicates that the engine is out of order. In most cases, malfunctions in the motor directly affect the suction power of the air.
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Regardless of what is the cause of the malfunction, you need to know how to disassemble the vacuum cleaner in order to repair it yourself.
Repairing a vacuum cleaner with a wet cleaning function will be a little more difficult, since you will also have to work with a water pump. The main task of the pump is to supply water to the dust collector, for this reason the pump is installed at its inlet. When repairing a washing vacuum cleaner, you must pay attention to disconnecting the pump.
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When repairing a vacuum cleaner from companies: Hoover, Vitek, Samsung, Rowenta - it is recommended to check the power cord is working properly. You can check the integrity of the cord using a multimeter. The reason for the failure of the cable most often lies in the active use of the vacuum cleaner, in which the cable is frayed, twisted and broken. If such a breakdown is confirmed, it is enough just to shorten the cable to the required length or replace it.
Vacuum cleaners of the Dyson, Miele brand have a distinctive feature that manifests itself in the frequent failure of the filter. Low suction power is a sign of dirty filters.
It is very important to periodically clean and rinse not only the dust container, but also the filter. Timely maintenance of the filtration system of the vacuum cleaner is the key to its long-term and high-quality operation, which primarily depends on the serviceability of the engine.
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Regardless of the manufacturer and type of vacuum cleaner, the main difference lies in quality, power and design.
The most important thing in a vacuum cleaner is the electric motor, which creates a vacuum and, as a result, sucks dust and various particles through special filters through which only air passes.
In different types of such devices, these filters are different, and flasks and just bags and cyclone-type vacuum cleaners.
But it is the engine and, occasionally, the electronic power (rpm) control circuit that requires the most attention in this whole device.
Do-it-yourself engine repair is not difficult to carry out if the breakdown is simple and the engine is still running but you can hear a heavy engine stroke (when turned off) or the engine starts to rattle or buzz strongly, it happens that the vacuum cleaner gets very hot in a short period of time.
The heart of the vacuum cleaner, as we have already figured out, is the engine and, as a rule, the collector.
What is such an engine?
The motor is housed in a housing where the fan impeller blades are hidden. It is of the tangential type, where air is drawn in at the center and exits through the periphery and already exits through the rear filter.
The brushes in the engine are placed in special shafts made of brass, as a rule, this is ordinary carbon in the form of graphite. Over time, the brushes rub against the collector roller, their middle is ground down and they become slightly semicircular, due to which the contact area with the collector pads increases. The brushes in their shafts are pressed by springs, creating the necessary pressure of the graphite, in the process, by the robots, to the collector. The brush will work until it wears off and the spring cannot properly contact the graphite with the manifold.
It is necessary to monitor the cleanliness of the collector shaft itself, clean it from carbon deposits if necessary and remove the oxide layer to a copper sheen.
The shaft is attached to the stator by two bearings of different sizes, as a rule, this is done in order to make it easier to disassemble it. The front is usually large, and the back is smaller.
The shaft is carefully knocked out of the stator using any suitable tools. Then we look at the course of the bearings, because of the dusty robots they get clogged despite the presence of anthers. If necessary, the anthers are carefully removed with a thin screwdriver or an awl, washed with a jet of WD-pulleys, after which the balls must be lubricated, for example, with grease such as Litol-24 or EP-2, after which the boot is put in place and snaps into its grooves in the bearing itself.
To start some kind of repair or maintenance of the vacuum cleaner, you need to remove the case. Each model has its own methods.
First of all, all filters that impede access to the motor are removed, the housing screws are unscrewed, including secret ones (under the buttons, for example). Having unscrewed all the screws, you need to carefully try to disassemble the case, if this fails, take a closer look where there may still be latches or additional screws, if you do not pay attention to this, you can break the case.
Then the entire electrical installation is disconnected, as a rule, the connections are made on the connectors.
The plastic motor housing is unscrewed from the bed and the motor is then removed from its plastic housing.
In some models, it is simpler and the motor itself is fixed in the body of the vacuum cleaner in special rubber grooves-seals or screwed tightly to the general body of the vacuum cleaner.
To disassemble the engine and remove the fan impeller first of all, we will remove the front part of the casing (above the impeller). We take a thin metal object, you can use a screwdriver and gently bend it off the side of the casing so that the screwdriver goes a little into the middle, then gently push the upper part of the casing out, as a result of which the entire impeller becomes available to us.
The nut on the impeller usually has a left-hand thread (but there are exceptions) We try to unscrew it by holding the impeller with our hand, if it scrolls and in this way it is impossible to unscrew the nut, there is one great way
So..we take a good stranded wire with a cross section of more than 1.5 mm in dense rubber insulation (to prevent slipping). We push in such a wiring and wrap the collector shaft 2-3 times, turn to turn and stretch it in different directions, thereby fixing the shaft motionless.
It is most convenient to do this together, one person fixes the collector using the ends of the wire stretched to the sides, and the second unscrews the nut on the fan disk.
The method is very convenient and safe for fixing the anchor. In the same way, when reassembling, tighten the nut.
After removing the fan impeller, unscrew the housing screws; by this time, the brushes should already be removed.
Then carefully pull out the anchor, twisting the upper part slightly if necessary.
If necessary, the bearings are removed using a commercially available tool or special thread pullers. In especially severe cases, the bearing sometimes “sticks” tightly to the sleeve; a special hydraulic press is used to remove the bearings.
- bearings
- brushes
- fuse
- network wire
- no contact in the switch
- motor winding, breakage or burnout of the winding (stator or rotor)
- capacitor failure
- breakdown of the electronic circuit of the power regulator
Drop in power and suction power.
The most common cause is either a clogged filter or a defective bearing.
It is necessary to clean the filter and check the operation again, check also the operation (draft) of the vacuum cleaner without filters, since it happens that ordinary cleaning of the filter does not help and it already needs to be replaced.
If the draft without filters does not give the same working draft, you will have to disassemble the vacuum cleaner, the impeller on it should easily turn with your finger without much effort. Additionally, we remove and inspect the brushes and clean the collector from carbon deposits using zero sandpaper or a piece of ordinary cloth.
In some cases, the tightness of the hose is broken, this can be both a violation of the integrity of the hose itself and the connecting pipes at the ends of the hose, the hose simply slips out of them a little.
The vacuum cleaner does not turn on.
If everything is fine with the voltage in the outlet, disassemble the vacuum cleaner and first of all inspect the fuse and the power cord, especially at the very end of the cord on the winding drum in the soldering points.
If there is a tester, we call for a contact.
The power button could break or the contact is simply broken in it, it sometimes gets clogged, again, with the help of a tester, we make sure that the button is working properly.
If all the elements have been called by the tester and the voltage comes to the engine brushes without problems, and the brushes themselves are not erased, then most likely you will have to repair the engine expensively or simply replace it, since in most cases it is more expedient to install a new motor than to repair a tired old one by rewinding.
If the vacuum cleaner worked for a long time and does not turn on then it is quite possible that the protective thermostat on the engine itself has worked as a result of overheating - in this case, there is nothing to repair, it will be enough to leave the vacuum cleaner to cool the engine.
The speed of the vacuum cleaner motor is not regulated.
The most common cause of such a malfunction is the breakdown of the triac in which the voltage through it is not regulated but freely passes through it without any control. It is possible that this element fails, and it is possible that contact is lost on one of the legs of this element on the board.
By slightly pressing down on the speed regulator knob, you can make sure whether the regulator itself is in good working order or the contact may be broken in it and the regulator slider does not contact its site.
The vacuum cleaner emits a foreign smell and hot air.
First of all, you need to make sure that the suction inlet is not clogged, inspect the hose, check the retraction force at the inlet and whether the sound of the engine changes when you plug the inlet with your palm.In case of satisfactory operation on the part of the suction system, we can assume that the engine is malfunctioning, but most likely the brushes.
The vacuum cleaner hums and rumbles - the reason for this action is the engine, and in particular its bearings. Most likely they need additional lubrication or, if there is a large shaft around their axis, they need to be replaced with new ones.
The cord is not tightened when the button is pressed or is constantly tightened during operation - malfunction of the winding drum, perhaps the spring has burst, is weakened or, on the contrary, is too tight.
We inspect the pressure roller of the button and, if necessary, removing the drum, we wind up or unwind the wire on the drum - changing the tension of the drum itself to the one we need.
As a rule, it is not complicated and is quite standard in most models.
Regardless of the type of vacuum cleaner, the heart is called the engine. Television programs like to depict the creation of a vacuum, which, in our opinion, is an inept manipulation of words. The motor draws in air by the blade, the filter keeps the moving parts from dust. Each bearing is provided with an insert for this purpose. The engine is devoid of protection from vacuum ... Do-it-yourself repair of a vacuum cleaner is advisable when the heart of the device is functioning properly, there is a need to replace, modify the brushes, lubricate the bearings. It is charming that the devices are similar from the inside, like two drops of water. The mechanical part, the device for collecting dust, filters, brushes, hoses, housings vary. Accessories are an essential part of the appliance. The device of the vacuum cleaner, the basic idea remains the same!
The heart of the vacuum cleaner is rightly called a motor, traditionally a collector motor. Let's take a quick look at the design of an irreplaceable product and create a clear idea. In an asynchronous motor, a rotating field is created by the correct distribution of the phases by the windings, the winding collector commutes in series. There are unpopular exceptions. The direction of movement is determined by the direction of engagement:
- The current flows, the fields work for attraction.
- The current flows, the fields are repelled.
As for the question why the rotor turns exactly in this direction, not opposite when connecting the windings unidirectionally, the answer is revealed by the mutual arrangement of the brushes and stator coils, the structure of the collector. The number of coils is wound on the armature, equal to the number of contact pads of the shaft. The brushes feed a single winding at a time. Then the shaft rotates a certain angular distance, the next coil is energized. One revolution passes, the cycle begins anew.
Imagine the stator pole (so far only one - not two), located at the bottom. Suppose, at the initial moment of time, the brushes are set so that the armature pole is fed to the left of the building axis. Then, due to repulsion, the shaft begins to describe the hour hand. The axis passes the angular distance, the current begins to flow around the next winding, which managed to take the place of the previous one. This happens as long as the current exists. And there is no difference, constant or variable. The collector motor will run driven by the direction of the field. The speed of rotation is not determined by the frequency - by the design of the mechanical part, by the magnitude of the voltage.
Now if the fields are attracted, the rotation will start counterclockwise. By the time the stator and rotor poles become opposite each other, the power will be transferred to the next coil, which will begin to create the required force. The cycle is circular. Now the coils. Brush motors are equipped with a pair of stator windings for direct current because the alternating current encounters too much resistance from the inductors. This is why some brushed motors are designed with separate stator leads. It will allow you to use one instead of two windings. It is clear that the load capacity drops significantly. But losses are decreasing.
In a vacuum cleaner on the motor stator, we notice two diametrically opposite windings that help each other. Mutually beneficial coexistence is ensured by the correct direction of inclusion (wrote above). Reversing motors have a special power relay that switches the poles in proper order. For comparison, in an induction motor, a similar relay distributes the voltage phases in a different way. It turns out a reverse. The collector motor does not require a starting winding and a capacitor (one phase), which try to imitate the second winding. Simply put, the efficiency of three-phase asynchronous motors is higher. The brainchilds of Nikola Tesla and Dolivo-Dobrovolsky are used by industrial equipment, in the 90s they were replaced by collector equipment from household appliances (vacuum cleaners were traditionally supplied with graphite brushes before the restructuring).
Two brushes are used to transfer current to the armature. The difference is leveled, where the plus, where the minus, the direction is provided by the correct commutation.
Is it possible, by changing the order of connecting the brushes, to make the motor rotate in the opposite direction. The polarity of the field is reversed. This technique is used to obtain a constant voltage reverse. When doing self-repair of vacuum cleaners, remember the correct position of the contacts.
A tangential fan is hidden behind the filters for coarse and fine air purification. Air enters in the center, is discharged to the periphery, moving forward, enters the room through a HEPA filter that traps particles of a few microns (micrometers) in size. The blade is covered with a cover, the part is made in the form of curved aluminum partitions between two metal planes. Closed channels are obtained. The engine is enclosed by a plastic casing (traditionally white), in which the outlet flow path is cut.
It is interesting! Due to the presence of a tangential fan, the efficiency of the vacuum cleaner barely reaches 20-30%. With a power consumption of 1600 W, the suction will be 350 W.
Brushes are fixed in mines, it is useful for beginners to know: this is a typical pencil graphite (carbon, coal). You can, if necessary, sharpen the parts, adjust as needed, so that they become in place. If the area of contact with the collector is small, it is not scary, gradually the brushes will wear in. The tips are slightly grinded in a semicircle inward. Each brush is pressed by a spring through which the current passes, the measure will provide a long service life to the products. The carbon will work until it wears down to the ground. However, the copper collector must be kept clean. Wipe with your favorite product if necessary, remove the oxide film to a coppery shine.
The shaft is attached to the stator with two bearings. Different sizes to make it easier to disassemble the vacuum cleaner motor. The front bearing is large and the rear bearing is small. The shaft is carefully knocked out of the stator by suitable means (pneumatic puller), moderate heating helps. The bearings are equipped with anthers. Although the vacuum cleaner creates a vacuum, dirt gets in there too. The anthers are carefully removed with a screwdriver if necessary to lubricate the parts. Suitable: composition HADO, Litol - 24, EP - 2. The grease is put inside, the boot is put in place.
Do-it-yourself vacuum cleaner repair begins by removing the case. In each case, the methods are different. Filters blocking access to the engine are removed. The electrical installation is disconnected (the vacuum cleaner is unplugged), the plastic motor housing is unscrewed from the base. Remove the motor from the casing, after which the fan is removed. The nut has a left-hand thread, twist carefully. The fan is followed by a collector-cover, under which the electrical part is hidden. The further course of operations is clear from what was previously read up to the removal of the rotor.
If necessary, the bearings are racked off with a threaded remover or a hydraulic press. Aids are being used. Small balls with a diameter extending into the bearings.It is recommended to flatten on one side so as not to roll. Reverse mounting is done in a similar way. If you hold the armature by the bearing in your hand, the rotation should be fast, quiet, confident. When lubricating, the outer boot is removed, take the trouble to put new spare parts on the same side.
- brushes;
- bearings;
- motor windings;
- power wire;
- fuse.