In detail: do-it-yourself qr20 repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
now I'm doing just that)))
true, my problem is more serious, but your troubles are familiar to me. No special tool is needed. all keys are standard 10 - 24 plus an asterisk.
Good luck with your work. there will be questions - write in a personal.
On the highway for 2 liters it is normal, it suits me, my mixed computer seems to be 10.5 per hundred square meters.
Today, for the sake of interest, I called the offices engaged in capital engines, I was shocked: 25 thousand + spare parts and a week of business.
Ps also noticed that when you drive around the city for a long time, the cabin smells of heated (just heated, not burnt) oil, the engine does not boil, does not overheat, the arrow temp is just below the horizon, and there is a wild heat under the hood.
Pavel873How are you with oil consumption?
A cause for great concern.
Two years ago Lyubertsy-Finka-Lyubertsy (10 days, distance about 3500-3700) refilled 150 grams upon arrival.
Maybe laurel will help the rings (it did not help me), although all this is doubtful, but there is nothing to help the stale caps, definitely a replacement.
On the highway for 2 liters it is normal, it suits me, my mixed computer seems to be 10.5 per hundred square meters.
Today, for the sake of interest, I called the offices engaged in capital engines, I was shocked: 25 thousand + spare parts and a week of business.
Ps also noticed that when you drive around the city for a long time, the cabin smells of heated (just heated, not burnt) oil, the engine does not boil, does not overheat, the arrow temp is just below the horizon, and there is a wild heat under the hood.
Pavel873How are you with oil consumption?
They made me happy. On Saturday, the weather was quite hot, and I had to ride a hundred kilometers round-trip on a loaded highway, to be honest, I don't like to vomit on the highway, especially if the car allows it, and I was dropping 140 kilometers on the speedometer on a cruise. I arrived, and the cabin stinks of some kind of burnt rubber. The hood is open - it stinks of burnt from there.
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Video (click to play). |
Heat under the hood initially, on the car for the third week, changed the oil a couple of weeks ago.
Now I checked the level for cold - the oil is normal, it is higher than the heart, although I dashed off only 500-600 + kilometers on it, the mileage was 140 thousand with maaaaaalenky +, the last time I was driving around the city and with air conditioning. I took a car from the owner with a Low level, then it alerted me, but it seemed like the car was serviced by the dealer all the way.
But! Average consumption, like yours - 10.8-10.5, on the highway fell by only 300 grams, the temperature under the hood is very hellish, the temperature is also all right - the arrow is at the prescribed level, and periodically some that is a bad roaring sound of the motor.
I have a two-liter aspirated, and even never had it on the variator, maybe it should behave like that, am I winding myself up again?
I have not measured the compression yet, the dealer changed the oil, at the same time did the diagnostics, he did not leave any comments to me.
At the next visit to the service station, my Xtrail (2L 2002, real mileage 170 t), after inspecting the candles (platinum) and listening to my comments below, pronounced a verdict: a thorough engine repair is required.
Main arguments
1. QR20 engines are not designed for a mileage of more than 100 thousand and this is supposedly a recognized fact even by Nissan itself
2.Oil consumption after 150 thousand mileage 200 -300 g per 1000 km
I bought the oil myself and it is possible that I could have filled in a fake CASTROL,
oil caps are not changed, fuel consumption is normal, the engine is not dull. There is a problem: sometimes it stalls at idle if you suddenly drop the gas pedal. (I saw this on the pages of the forum)
Question: Indeed, one should do an "autopsy" with such a run
Does anyone have cars with 200 thousand mileage without capital (replacement of rings, valves, liners, etc.)
I don’t want to upset, but it’s quite possible.
First, get acquainted with this information.Try to find out if the catalyst has been replaced and whether the car falls under this replacement.
Tell me, did you put new rings on yourself? Here, in addition to the increased consumption, I still eat oil per liter per 1000 km and the compression is somewhere not 12, but 11. Maybe I should order new rings and change?
new rings installed ..
I repeat: de-coking with laurel and so on - hnya, because
piston rings three hours scraped by hand ..
and valve stem seals, because the family became plastic ..
a decanter for 16 VAZ valves was used ..
at the same time the valve is ground in - the clearances are better than steel ..
Did you put a new gasket on the head of the block? Is the list of parts with numbers and prices preserved?
How are the results? Has your fuel consumption been reduced?
Did you measure the ellipticity of the cylinders?
Did you change the crankshaft liners and valve adjusting elements?
Can you briefly describe everything in a separate topic?
piston rings, nominal 12033-8Н301 1891.74 ..
connecting rod bushings 12111-6N200 949.36 ..
timing chain 13028-6N20A 4594.90 ..
chain tensioner 13070-6N21A 967.68 ..
crankshaft oil seal 13510-6N210 172.24 ..
block gasket 11044-6N202 1062.26 ..
cylinder head bolt 11056-AR001 970.10 ..
oil scraper cap 13207-84A001293.66 (18 pieces just in case)
valve cover gasket 13270-8Н301 451.52 ..
valve cracker 13210-53Y00 101.4 (5 pieces just in case)
and of course
fuel filter 16400-2Y505 782.51 ..
oil filter AY100-NS004 346.46 ..
filter 16546-3J400 552.72 ..
thermostat 21200-6N210 441.53 ..
thermostat 21230-6N20A 447.98 ..
candle B2401-95F0A ..
Well, if QR20 should become a smooth lale
with the number of horses indicated in the TCP, then
brake pads front TEXTAR 2342001 1902,46 ..
brake fluid TEXTAR 9850200229L 515.02 for 2 liters
also bought a desiccant for 499 rubles.
mandrel for caps for 56 rubles, which did not fit ..
rolled off somewhere O-ring for the nozzle 80 rubles ..
waffle cloth (on rags) 10 meters 200 rubles
beer, cigarettes, food - not counting ..
I did not measure ellipticity due to the senselessness of the measurement.
there is still no money for a new block ..
and there are no piston overhaul sizes ..
surprised by the location of the locks of the rings according to the manual ..
I was surprised a lot during the play ..
connecting rod fingers are also old ..
old valve glasses ..
the valve clearance before repair was towards a larger limit,
after lapping, stood in the middle of the tolerances ..
lapping the cylinder head was minimal, as they said in the repair shop ..
cost 600 rubles in the pocket of the robe, 100 rubles to the security guard at the checkpoint ..
the cylinder head gasket has stratified into the upper and lower layers ..
there were no visible breakouts.
antifreeze went out through the 3rd cylinder - the piston was the cleanest ..
wound up, gutted, leveled, smoked with mounting oil ..
no training required ..
everything is fine after the intervention of Sergey VT in June ..
consumption xs bye ..
I try not to go above 2,500 ..
well, the boshepompa is now constantly oiling ..
disassembly and assembly was carried out according to ESM X-TRAIL T-30 (october 2005) ..
Well, here too I will express my respect in the rebuild
Alexey AAG220E, Egor Smolett, Mikhail 927, Dmitry Varnak, Rimma wish-ka, Sergey SergeyVT
conclusion: 1JZ is not as bad as QR ..
conclusion 2: QR is easier to remove from the body, it will be much more convenient and faster to work with it ..
Conclusion 3: you can boil the cylinder head and other parts without caustic soda, ordinary styrofoam is also good ..
Cars change, friends and the forum remain. [my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1209]
Message Lysambry "October 20, 2009, 13:30
Probably someone this thread will do with this info ..
I will answer the questions to which I know the answer ..
to eliminate increased fuel consumption (14-16l / 100km), oil (liter / 1500km), antifreeze (liter / 2000 km)
it was decided to make a partial repair of the engine.
made an event for Friday evening and the following weekend ..
used ECM NISSAN X-TRAIL T30
What was needed for the rebuild:
piston rings, nominal 12033-8Н301 1891.74 ..
connecting rod bushings 12111-6N200 949.36 ..
timing chain 13028-6N20A 4594.90 ..
chain tensioner 13070-6N21A 967.68 ..
crankshaft oil seal 13510-6N210 172.24 ..
block gasket 11044-6N202 1062.26 ..
cylinder head bolt 11056-AR001 970.10 ..
oil scraper cap 13207-84A001293.66 (18 pieces just in case)
valve cover gasket 13270-8Н301 451.52 ..
valve cracker 13210-53Y00 101.4 (5 pieces just in case)
and of course
fuel filter 16400-2Y505 782.51 ..
oil filter AY100-NS004 346.46 ..
filter 16546-3J400 552.72 ..
thermostat 21200-6N210 441.53 ..
thermostat 21230-6N20A 447.98 ..
candle B2401-95F0A ..
Well, if QR20 should become a smooth lale
with the number of horses indicated in the TCP, then
brake pads front TEXTAR 2342001 1902,46 ..
brake fluid TEXTAR 9850200229L 515.02 for 2 liters
I also bought a desiccant for 499 rubles for 16-valve vasodviglov ..
mandrel for caps for 56 rubles, which did not fit ..
rolled off somewhere O-ring for the nozzle 80 rubles ..
waffle cloth (on rags) 10 meters 200 rubles
beer, cigarettes, food - not counting ..
3.. and remove the oil receiver.
4. Clean off any dirt and wash out the sieve of the oil receiver with white spirit. If the grid
cannot be cleaned or is damaged, replace the oil receiver.
5. Remove the two bolts and four screws securing the oil pump cover.
7. Measure the radial clearance between the driven gear and the oil pump housing. It should be 0.250-0.325 mm.
8. Measure the clearance between the teeth of the drive and driven gears. It should be less
0, 180 mm. If the clearance is greater than the specified value, replace the gears.
9. Measure the axial clearances of the gears in the pump housing. The clearance for the driving gear should be 0.030-0.085 mm, for the driven gear 0.030-0.090 mm.
10. Remove the oil pump drive gear from the housing.
Measure the outer diameter d of the pinion hub.
12. Remove the driven gear of the oil pump from the housing and measure the diameter D of the hole for the hub of the drive gear.
13. Calculate the clearance z between hub and bore using the formula z = D - d. The gap z should be 0.045-0.091 mm. If the clearance z and the clearances measured in paragraphs. 7 and 9 are not within the specified limits, replace the cylinder block front cover assembly.
14. Remove the plug of the pressure relief valve.
The pressure relief valve spring is fitted with an interference fit. Unscrew the plug very carefully to avoid injury.
The relief valve plug is sealed with an aluminum washer. Replace the washer with a new one.
15. Remove the spring from the seat.
sixteen. . and the plunger of the pressure reducing valve.
17. Using a screwdriver, remove the crankshaft pulley oil seal from the front cover of the cylinder block.
18. Wash the front cover and dismantled parts from dirt and deposits. Remove dense varnish deposits from the internal cavities of the oil pump, having previously softened them with a solvent.
Oil varnish deposits are well removed with commercially available engine flushing agents (so-called "five minutes").
19. Inspect the inside of the seat and relief valve plug for scratches or damage. Lubricate the plunger with engine oil and make sure it sinks freely into the valve seat by its own weight. If damaged, replace the plunger or front cover assembly.
20. After measuring the seat diameter of the pressure reducing valve and the plug diameter, calculate the clearance as the difference in diameter. The gap should be 0.052-0.088 mm. If the gap does not fall within the specified interval, replace the front cover assembly.
21. Assemble the pump in the reverse order of disassembly. Lubricate the new crankshaft pulley oil seal with engine oil and press it into the cover until it stops using a suitable mandrel (for example, a socket from the tool kit).
For repairing the QR 20 engine oil pump DE you will need: a 10 key, a Phillips screwdriver, a metal ruler, a set of flat probes, micrometers for measuring the outer and inner diameters, a rod with a magnetic tip.
1. Remove the timing cover (the oil pump is located in it) (see "Replacing the timing chain for the QR20DE engine", page 116).
Good day! Can someone help resolve the issue. It began with the fact that the oil began to eat up, at first a little, and then sharply by 1000 km. it took more than three liters. We contacted the service, they said that the rings in the engine had burned out and a major overhaul was needed, which is about 50 sput, but oh well, there’s nothing to do, ordered parts, signed up for repairs. We are waiting for spare parts. And today the car began to pound madly in the middle of the road, drove into the first service that came across, and there the guys said that the valve cover gasket and / or the sealing rings of the spark plug wells had collapsed and oil splatters through them and you just need to buy a repair kit and candles and change all this - work for 2 hours. They said that if the rings burned out, the car would stop driving, and that we were simply bred. That's who to believe.
The main symptom of zhora oil is from them. I would make a replacement with a repair kit during parsing it would be possible to diagnose the engine.
to MikhailM: Machine out of warranty? What is the mileage?
Purchase a repair kit as soon as possible and replace the valve gasket with all other necessary items. It looks like they really tried to breed you.
The machine is not under warranty. 2005, now mileage 91,000 km
What is a repair kit. the store said that there is only a valve cover gasket for Nissan, and there are no O-rings
Now let's give flies separately, cutlets separately.
If there is a problem with the valve cover gasket and spark plug wells, oil will leak out. With worn out rings, it will burn inside.
Remove the spark plug tips - in case of a torn gasket, everything should be in oil.
Unscrew the plugs and inspect the threads of the plug and the electrodes. If there is coked oil on the electrodes, then the rings will indeed need to be replaced. If there is oil on the thread of the spark plug, then replace the oil removable caps.
If there is a malfunction inside the engine, smoke will come out of the exhaust pipe.
Messir, in our city they started up such a "duck" that on Hsies until 2004, if the engine malfunctions, they change the engine at Nissana dealers. Is that true?
to mamasonya60: It is not excluded. But then not in your city, but in Russia, at least.
I doubt it very much. However, the exact information can only be obtained from your local dealer.
Rzhu nemagu! You guys are here. Like experts and others. We open the hood. we look at the valve cover. there are visible traces of oil leaks or not. even from candle wells, even from under the gasket. Three liters per thousand.
How would I write about it here. Haven't you read it?
Yes, I read everything, do not think that I know most of all, the guys on the forum just swim a little. Arguments that do not fit the symptoms begin to lead
Dmitriy22 here are the same specialists at the officials and sit. without thinking “change everything and then it will be seen” with this approach, it’s better not to give people advice at all. Messir gave a comprehensive answer on how to see where the oil is flying out and what to do about it.
to Dmitry22: Not everything is as simple as it seems. Much depends on the situation.
We guys at the service shovel motors two a week. We specialize in Nissan. I don’t guess, I know for sure.
Now tell us how you disassembled your motor ?? The block was checked for cracks. The cylinders were checked for ellipse. Did you sharpen the block for repair rings or not ?? Honed the block before assembly. What they honed with, by hand with a trident and a drill, or the machine did it. How else could oil get on the piston from above. Everything else is not interesting to me, further it is not difficult to guess what happened.
Dimon whose log I did not notice. The fact that I give advice like officials.
The Nissan QR20DE engine is a fairly ordinary 2-liter engine with an aluminum block of cylinders and a short service life. The QR20DE resource, during ordinary operation, is about 200 thousand km, if you change the oil more often than it should be, drive extremely carefully and pray to the engine 2-3 times a day, that is, there is a chance that more than 250 thousand will be passed through, in any case, data the facts are recorded.
QR20DE replaced the well-known SR20DE, individual ignition coils, an electronic throttle valve were added, the cylinder head was modified, a variable valve timing system on the intake shaft was added, balance shafts appeared, for smooth operation and other less significant and noticeable changes.
There are no hydraulic lifters on QR20DE, once every 100 thousand km you need to go to adjust the valves, or wait until there are knocks in the engine and only then go as everyone else does.
1. Stretching the timing chain. This problem is inherent in the first series of the motor, XX starts to float, the car twitches, etc., which means that the chain has arrived, replacing the chain solves the problem completely. Later, this drawback was eliminated.
2. Leaks from under the valve cover gasket, change the cover with the gasket and the problem is gone.
3. Oil consumption, high oil consumption (more than 0.5 l / 1000 km) is a sign of dead piston rings.
4. Grinding, you will be saved by flushing the injectors and cleaning the throttle valve.
5. Vibrations of the motor. The point is in the firmware, you are changing and there are no problems. And look at the candles, they may need to be replaced.
In addition to the above, it is problematic to start the engine in frost more than -20 C, a short-lived catalyst (this applies mainly to cars until 2004, the problem lies in the non-optimal factory firmware and, as a result, the overflow of fuel that burned out in the catalyst, with the most unpleasant consequences and for the kata itself and for the motor), thermostats also do not suffer from reliability and their failure is fraught with overheating of the aluminum cylinder block
Summing up, of course, the QR20DE engine has become more modern and technologically advanced, but the old SR20DE still enjoys great respect among the people, thanks to its reliability and simplicity, and in the conditions of the CIS countries, these qualities are valued much higher. In the QR series, there is also a 2.5 liter QR25DE engine, the same as a 2 liter, but with a piston stroke of 100 mm. Later, the QR20DE was replaced with another two-liter MR20DE engine.
The engine number is located on the platform on the right, on the cylinder block.
In the CIS countries, the motor is a little strangled, so flashing and knocking out the catalyst will give extra
10 hp, with a cylinder head porting, you can bring the output up to 160 hp. In general, there is a lot of movement and little result.
The most expensive and pointless way to spend your money is to install a turbine or compressor. Turbo kits based on Garrett T3 and other turbines (high price) with an intercooler are on sale, buy forged ShPG with counterbores for a low compression ratio (
8), efficient nozzles
440cc, efficient fuel pump, straight-through exhaust, cylinder head porting will give us an improvement in filling the cylinders, we will carry out online tuning. At the output we will get a powerful motor.
250 h.p. (depending on the turbine) with a low resource, considering the price of all these things, you can understand why no one is turbocharging the QR20DE.
With a compressor, the situation is one-to-one, only instead of a turbo kit you buy a compressor kit, all the other improvements will not go anywhere. Naturally, you can buy a St. Petersburg compressor RK-23-1 up to 0.5 bar and put it on a standard motor, without any changes, and it will withstand, but the increase will not be so significant, and the motor resource will be reduced.
To summarize, tuning QR20DE is completely pointless, financially costly and does not bring anything sensible at the end.
Posted by: admin on Blog on 10/02/2013 0 13555 views
This section will publish stories sent to me through this form!
One of these articles was written Basil from Minusinsk, and I will publish it on the site with pleasure! Write also you, I will be glad to new authors!
So the data on the car:
On a dark rainy morning, a stone that fell off a cliff and rolled onto the road did its dirty work.
We reached the pit, let's start. We remove the plastic protection that remains. Mounted on clips:
And bolts by 10, after removing the wheel.
We remove the belt (it was necessary to replace it for a long time - all worn out).
To do this, use a 14 key to loosen the automatic belt tensioner, pull it clockwise. Insert the M6 bolt (or something suitable) into the tensioner retainer. The belt can now be easily removed, leaving the tensioner locked.
We put a jack under the box and unscrew the central beam.
We unscrew the air conditioner and take it to the side, securing it with wire so that it does not interfere. One bolt is visible, the other two are above the air conditioner.
Removing the front exhaust pipe
And her support (she jumped out of the rubber band from the blow, how will it get up later?)
Remove the back cover (two bolts)
And unscrew the 4 bolts securing the engine to the gearbox.
We drain the oil (I have already been drained) and unscrew the bolts of the lower oil pan
In the reverse order to that shown in the diagram (ie, 10, 9, 8 ... 1), and we will twist as in the diagram.
We insert a thin knife between the lower and upper pallets and, tapping with a hammer on the pallet and the knife, cut through the sealant. We remove the pallet.
We unscrew the bolts of the upper oil pan. In the reverse order to that shown in the diagram
Tapping from above on the influx of the upper pallet (already taken in the photo) from the side of the wheel,
I insert a knife blade between the block and the pallet. We cut the sealant around the perimeter, the work is tedious, but doable. The entire pallet is removed. Parts removed:
#1 wrote: sl (Apr 3, 2009 12:46 pm)
#2 wrote: Alex708 (April 3, 2009 01:10 PM)
#4 wrote: Serjik (April 3, 2009 13:57 PM)
#5 wrote: Pugachev (Apr 4, 2009 08:21 PM)
#6 wrote: Helion (Apr 5, 2009 02:14 AM)
#7 wrote: malev007 (Apr 5, 2009 03:23 PM)
#8 wrote: priZrak (April 5, 2009 18:59)
Guys who thread perezaleyte on another site. I can not download, writes that the limit is exceeded, try h / z 16 minutes, although I am only trying to download for the first time.
Then all the same I waited for these 16 minutes and when I pressed download it gave
The Nissan company has always delighted the consumer with its products - from individual spare parts to prefabricated motors.
The latter became famous for their excellent workmanship in comparison with competitive counterparts, and a long service life. Some were distinguished by good maintainability, while others required specialized maintenance.
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In our article we will focus on the QR20DE engine - we will analyze its main characteristics, talk about the advantages and disadvantages.
Our sample was far from the only one in its family produced by Nissan. QR engines were launched in the early 2000s, replacing the SR series. The new engine has been modified with an electronic throttle valve, individual ignition coils, an upgraded cylinder head, balanced shafts and the presence of variable valve timing on the intake shaft, etc.
The main brothers of our engine were several models that differed in the volume of the combustion chamber - 2 and 2.5 liters, as well as some technical characteristics. The cylinder block for all ICEs was made of aluminum alloy, the gas distribution system was presented in the form of 2 camshafts. All motors were 16-valve - each cylinder had 2 intake and 2 exhaust valves.
At the beginning of the second millennium, our first child was released, which was equipped with multi-point electronic fuel injection. This power unit was installed on many cars - from inexpensive sedans to solid cars.
This decision of the engineers was fully justified - the technical capabilities of the motor made it possible to maneuver both a small car on the track and pull heavy SUVs even with the air conditioner compressor turned on.
Power ranged from 130 to 150 hp. depending on the version of the internal combustion engine and the selection for a specific car.
Automotive progress did not stand still, updated versions required more advanced engines, and our sample gave rise to five more daughter models:
From one model to another, the engines were constantly improved, minor structural alterations were made - the differences were in the form of fuel injection, modernization of the cylinder-piston group, the volume of the combustion chamber, the compression ratio, etc. Our engine was installed on Nissan Primera and other famous cars, including those with automatic transmission, CVT variator.
Before disassembling the basics of the design of our motor, let's decide on the location of the plate, where the series and engine number are indicated. It is not difficult to find it - it is located on a horizontal platform, which is located on the left side of the body, near the junction with the gearbox.
Now let's analyze the symbolic decoding of this model - QR20DE:
- the first two letters indicate belonging to the engine family;
- the number following the letters shows the volume of the combustion chamber - for the calculation you need to divide it by 10. Our engine has 2 liters;
- the letter "D" means that the internal combustion engine uses two camshafts, and there are 4 valves for each cylinder;
- the last designation in the form of the letter "E" speaks of multi-point electronic fuel injection, or, more simply, the presence of injectors.
Having deciphered the name, we will analyze the general structure of the motor - external and internal design features, the principle of operation. The table below shows the main technical characteristics of this model:
QR20DE - injection internal combustion engine, with a capacity of 130 to 150 horsepower. The maximum torque is 200 Nm at 4000 rpm. By design, this is an in-line four-cylinder engine - there are four cylinders in it, located in one row. The type of gas distribution DOHC means that the internal combustion engine is equipped with two camshafts - one serves only the intake valves, the other - the exhaust.
There are 4 valves per cylinder. The volume of the combustion chamber is 1998 cm³. The cylinder diameter is 89 mm, the piston stroke is 80.3 mm, the compression ratio is 9.8-10. As fuel, both 92 and 95 gasoline are suitable, the consumption of which is 7.8-11.1 liters per 100 km, depending on the operating conditions.
The engine body is made of aluminum alloy, which made it possible to significantly lighten its weight without losing strength. The valve head head differs from the previous model in its geometry, which is reflected in the shape of the intake and exhaust manifolds.
Inside the cylinder block and its upper part, there are oil channels going to the main engine units, as well as a jacket for the cooling system. In the lower part there are five bearing journals for the crankshaft, in which the plain bearings are located. In the head are molded beds for camshafts, as well as seats for valve guides with their seats. When connecting the head to the cylinder block housing, a cylinder head gasket is installed.
At the bottom of the engine there is a crankshaft on five bearing journals. Connecting rods connect it to the pistons, setting it in motion. The clearance in the main and connecting rod journals is regulated by plain bearings and, according to the manual, should be no more than 0.25 mm.
An oil channel runs inside the shaft for lubricating the rubbing surfaces, as well as for feeding through similar holes in the connecting rods to the piston pins. The piston rings regulate the clearance between the piston and the cylinder. As it increases, the compression falls and the oil consumption increases.
At the end of the crankshaft is the flywheel required to connect to the clutch disc. It is worth noting that in the presence of an automatic transmission, it is much thinner and lighter than in a complete set with a manual transmission. On the periphery of the flywheel there are teeth for engaging with the starter.
The timing system is chain driven, which is much more reliable than a belt. The timing chain takes rotation from the crankshaft sprocket and drives two camshafts located in the engine head. One of them serves only the intake valves, the second - the exhaust valves. In order not to stray the marks, a hydraulic-type chain tensioner is used, and its resonance is reduced by a damper.
The peculiarity is the presence of an intelligent change in valve timing vvti on the intake shaft, which regulates the valve travel by moving the camshaft to the desired angle.
Thanks to this option, fuel consumption is reduced and the engine efficiency is used more efficiently.
Helps to maintain optimal engine temperature. The device is liquid, closed, with forced circulation. For optimal performance, it is recommended to fill in antifreeze. Consists of radiators, fans, pipes, thermostat and water pump. The pump circulates the liquid, and the thermostat regulates its flow in a large or small circle.
Provides lubrication of rubbing motor units and assemblies, reducing their wear. The oil is pumped by a gear-type pump located in the engine sump.
Passing through the filter, it is supplied through special channels to the nodes of the crank and gas distribution mechanism, as well as the cylinder-piston group. After lubrication, the oil flows down and the circulation process is repeated again. The volume of the oil system is 3.9 liters.
It supplies fuel and air to the intake manifold, contributes to the formation of a fuel-air mixture and its supply to the combustion chamber.
Fuel is supplied from the gas tank by a special high-pressure pump, in which there is a coarse filter in the form of a mesh, which protects the system from the ingress of large particles into it. The fuel is fed through the pipes to the fine filter, where the smallest debris is removed from it.
After going through two stages of cleaning, the fuel is atomized by nozzles in the intake manifold channel, where it mixes with air, forming a combustible mixture, which is injected into the combustion chamber when the intake valves are opened.
The air system is represented by pipes, a filter, a throttle assembly and an intake manifold. The amount of air supplied is provided by the throttle valve, which is monitored by the ECU. The computer performs multiple analysis, collecting information from all sensors of the car and regulates the degree of opening of the damper, different variants of the combustible mixture are formed depending on the operating conditions of the engine.
The main elements are the battery, generator, high voltage wires, ECUs, coils and spark plugs. The sources supply low-voltage voltage to the ignition coils, which convert it into high-voltage and, under the control of the ECU, alternately send it to the spark plugs.
The latter generate a spark, igniting the combustible mixture. The order of work is 1-3-4-2. It is important to note that the QR20DE has spark plug seals to prevent oiling of the spark plugs.
The engine resource is on average 200 thousand km of run, with timely maintenance and measured driving mode, you can drive 50-70 thousand km more. At the end of the service life, most motorists install a contract power unit, however, overhaul with a cylinder block bore is also possible.
If you can remove the motor, then according to the manual scheme, you can turn it off yourself, and the turner service can be used in specialized workshops. Starting QR20DE in cold weather is considered a frequent problem.
The combination of non-optimal factory firmware in the event of a catalyst failure leads to the fact that when the start-up process is disturbed, it floods the candles - therefore, starting in frost below 20 degrees is sometimes difficult.
QR20DE is a simple motor that is easy to maintain. Like all engines, it has classic troubles from time to time. It stalls at idle, does not turn the starter, starts poorly, “traction disappears, I’m off the beaten track - everything returns to normal”, a decrease in revolutions - all these are far from isolated failures that the owners of this engine face
- Vibration - the problem is eliminated by changing the firmware.
- Oil leakage from under the valve cover is solved by replacing the gasket.
- The oil pressure sensor light comes on - check its serviceability. If the oil level has dropped, then one of the reasons is the wear of the piston rings. With the necessary experience, you can carry out the repair yourself, a repair kit can be purchased at any car dealership.
- Metal knock from under the hood - it is necessary to adjust the valves.
- The engine is troit - in this case, self-diagnostics is not worth it, rinse the nozzles in a car service and clean the throttle assembly. If it is damaged, it may be necessary to replace the injectors.
- The car jerks, jerks occur, revs float - with high mileage, the stretched timing chain is to blame. It is also recommended to inspect the condition of the vvti clutch, check the Egr valve.
- Increased fuel consumption - you need to go to the diagnostics, see the error codes. The lambda probe may need to be replaced.
- No spark - replace plugs, inspect high voltage wires. A photo report on the Internet will help.
- The starter turns, the engine does not start - check the crankshaft sensor and its wiring, it is possible that the malfunction is in them.
